| GLOBAL BEEF CUISINE |
The picture-perfect mountain valley where I live is a full day’s drive from the Thai restaurants, gyro stands, and sushi bars I adore. As a result, I’ve become more of a culinary globe trotter in my own kitchen than I ever was as a city dweller.
What I’ve discovered is that many of the world’s cuisines offer a model for eating less beef. When I make a stir-fry like Flying Greens with Beef in Oyster Sauce (page 145) with heaps of bok choy and slivers of steak, everything is in proportion. When I skewer kebabs with more vegetables than beef for Turkish Yogurt Kebabs with Grilled Summer Vegetables (page 138), a little meat goes a long way. Add a heap of steamed rice, pickled vegetables, or sliced fresh vegetables, and everyone is gratified to be eating food this is so colorful and energizing.
Asian cooking, from places including Laos, Vietnam, Korea, China, and Japan, inspired most of the recipes in this chapter. Beef, which in some places was not part of the tradition, is treated like a condiment and viewed as a luxury. In combination with the stellar flavors and textural contrast of fresh vegetables, herbs, and rice, beef is a supporting player.
My armchair traveling also touched down in other parts of the world, including Africa and South America. I returned from my research forays with recipes like Ethiopian Steak “Tartare” with Gingered Collard Greens (page 152) and Baked Argentinian Empanadas (page 159). What they all have in common is the judicious use of meat, especially the less butter-knife tender, leanest cuts that cooks here find hard to put to good use.
These recipes are designed to make global cooking accessible, especially for people who have never cooked these cuisines at home. The ingredient lists will appear long, but once you turn on the heat, most of these recipes come together before your eyes. The work is front-loaded, most of it chopping and measuring—all of which you can prepare an hour or up to two days in advance. (I wash and cut all the meat and vegetables, then store them in separate containers for a 10-minute weeknight dinner.) There are two learning recipes in this chapter, one for grilling meat on sticks (Rice Noodle Bowl with Lemongrass Beef, page 135)—a universal favorite way to serve beef—and one for stir-frying (Flying Greens with Beef in Oyster Sauce, page 145).
You may be unfamiliar with fish sauce, tamarind, or lemongrass, but even if you’ve never used them before, they are widely available nationwide. My own supermarket in the rural West was my litmus test. If I couldn’t find an ingredient there, I made substitutions, listed it as optional, or suggested an alternative.
There are recipes for every season—from a mid-winter Tamarind Beef Satay with Indonesian Salad (page 140), a tropical fruit salad, to a summertime Laotian Beef Salad with Sticky Rice (page 146). Abounding in fresh herbs, salad greens, and seasonal produce, these are refreshing alternatives to grilling a steak. Many have become my go-to recipes, and I return to them for the excitement and sense of well-being they bring into my every day. When I sit down to eat with my family, I don’t for a moment lament the lack of take-out options outside my door.
My principle is to use the most economical cut for the job, tougher cuts for the smallest slivers to moderately tender cuts for kebabs. Most of the recipes in this chapter rely on the cuts from the round primal, which are ultra-lean (especially grassfed) and tasty. They are also conveniently boneless, which eases the jobs of slicing, cubing, and chopping that most of the recipes request.
You’ll want your knives at their sharpest to slice neatly and safely through the meat (Chopping and Mincing, page 47). It’s also helpful if the meat is partially frozen to a popsicle-like consistency. If your meat is not frozen, pop it into the freezer for about twenty minutes. Once nice and firm, it won’t wobble while you make those fine slices. If your meat is already frozen, catch it when it hasn’t fully defrosted.
BOTTOM ROUND STEAK is the very lean, boneless cut from the large muscle of the outside round on the hindquarter. Slice it into slivers or chop, and be prepared for some chewiness.
EYE ROUND STEAK is crosscut from the tapered whole eye round muscle from the round, or hindquarters, found between the inside and outside round. Light-colored, lean, with a mild flavor and some chew, slice it very thin or chop it very fine.
HEART is a muscle in constant motion, fine-grained and the color of sun-baked brick. One of the leanest cuts, it needs to be cooked very quickly for the best eating. Slice it into wide strips for grilling or thin strips for stir-frying.
LEFTOVER STEAK OR ROAST BEEF is put to excellent use in many of the recipes. Instead of adding it as directed in each recipe, toss it in at the very end so that it has just enough time to warm up without cooking it any more.
SHOULDER TENDER, aka teres major, is an exceptionally tender, small tapered cut from the chuck. It should not be confused with mock tender, which is tough. Use it whenever only the most tender beef will do.
SIRLOIN TIP ROAST, aka round tip roast, is a boneless cut from the large muscle between the sirloin, or hip, and the round, or hindquarter. It is lean, fairly tender, economical, and extremely versatile for kebabs, satays, or stir-fries.
SKIRT STEAK is a long strip of boneless muscle from the diaphragm with an open, fibrous texture, and a papery membrane that needs to be peeled off before cooking (Trimming, page 51). Inside or outside steak are both great for quick cooking.
TOP BLADE STEAK, aka flatiron, is a boneless steak from the chuck, or shoulder, that has become a popular restaurant item. It’s also a tender choice for kebabs, satay, and other quick-cooked meats.
TOP ROUND ROAST OR STEAK is a lean boneless cut from the most tender part of the round, or hindquarter. Once chopped, it brings great texture and excellent flavor to any quick-cooked dish.
TOP SIRLOIN ROAST OR STEAK is a boneless and fairly tender cut from the sirloin, or hip section. Popular as a steak, it is also great sliced for satay and cubed for kebabs.
TRI-TIP ROAST OR STEAK is a triangular-shaped roast cut from the outer hip or bottom sirloin. An overall great grilling cut, it has an irregular shape that cooks more evenly when cut into large chunks.
Skewers of lemongrass-marinated grilled beef top a bowl filled to the brim with lettuce leaves, rice noodles, copious fresh herbs, carrots, and cucumbers. The chile-laced dressing of fish sauce and lime juice called nuoc cham marries it all together. This one-bowl meal, based on Vietnamese bun, is one of the most light and satisfying last-minute dishes I know.
Makes 4 servings
¼ CUP FISH SAUCE
¼ CUP LIME JUICE
3 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED
1 SERRANO PEPPER, STEMMED AND VERY THINLY SLICED INTO ROUNDS
1 POUND SIRLOIN TIP STEAK, CUT INTO 1-INCH CUBES
1 STALK LEMONGRASS, VERY FINELY CHOPPED OR 2 TABLESPOONS LEMONGRASS PURÉE (SOLD IN A TUBE)
1 SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED
1 (6- TO 8-OUNCE) PACKAGE DRIED RICE VERMICELLI NOODLES (MAI FUN)
6 LARGE GREEN OR RED LEAF LETTUCE LEAVES, TORN
1 CUP LIGHTLY PACKED FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES
1 CUP LIGHTLY PACKED FRESH THAI BASIL OR MINT LEAVES
1 LARGE CARROT, PEELED AND CUT INTO MATCHSTICKS
1 MEDIUM CUCUMBER, PEELED, CUT IN HALF LENGTHWISE, AND THINLY SLICED
Prepare the dressing by mixing the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, garlic, and pepper with ½ cup water. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Put the beef cubes in a glass or ceramic bowl, toss with the lemongrass and shallot and splash in ¼ cup of the dressing. Marinate the beef for 25 to 30 minutes at room temperature.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Submerge the rice noodles into the water and simmer until tender to the bite, about 3 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander, rinse with cold running water, and toss to drain them well.
Prepare a hot gas or charcoal grill, broiler, or grill pan on the stovetop. Thread the beef cubes onto 4 skewers, about 8 pieces per skewer, and discard the marinade. Position the skewers over the hottest part of the grill and cook, turning 2 to 3 times, for a total of 4½ to 5 minutes for medium rare.
Divide the lettuce, cilantro, and basil among 4 large serving bowls. Layer the greens with a quarter of the noodles along with the carrot, cucumber, and a skewer of the beef. Pour over the dressing to taste when ready to eat.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top sirloin steak is always a good marinating and grilling option. Leftover grilled steak or roast beef are shortcuts for this summery noodle bowl. Just slice and toss with the marinade before assembling. |
Slathering meat with a wet rub is typical of Caribbean countries and goes by the curious name of “jerk.” Jerk spice mixture combines chiles with spices and showcases the Jamaican pepper we know as allspice. This small tropical brown berry is redolent of clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger, flavors we associate with apple pie. This savory preparation matches allspice with tri-tip, a hearty beef cut that loves an assertive rub. Grassfed tri-tip is a small roast that cooks more uniformly when cut into serving pieces beforehand. The rub calls for jalapeño in place of the traditional blazing hot scotch bonnet chile, because it serves up plenty of heat for everyone I know. The Coconut-Scallion Rice (recipe follows) is a soothing, mildly sweet complement to the fiery beef.
Makes 6 servings
5 SCALLIONS, TRIMMED
2 MEDIUM JALAPEÑO PEPPERS, SEEDED IF YOU PREFER MILDER HEAT
3 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH THYME OR 1 TEASPOON DRIED
2 TABLESPOONS PACKED DARK BROWN SUGAR
1 TABLESPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
1½ TEASPOONS GROUND GINGER
¾ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
½ TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG
1 TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT
2 TABLESPOONS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LIME JUICE
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 (2- TO 2½-POUND) TRI-TIP ROAST
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Sirloin tip roast or steak, aka round tip, is a boneless and lean cut, often overlooked for grilling. Heart, sliced into 1-inch side strips, loves this strong jerk rub. |
Separate the white part of the scallions from the green (reserve the green part if making the Coconut-Scallion Rice). Purée the white parts of the scallions, jalapeños, garlic, and thyme in a food processor, scraping down the sides once or twice to make a smooth paste. Add the brown sugar, allspice, ginger, pepper, nutmeg, salt, lime juice, and oil and pulse once or twice to blend. Let the jerk paste stand for about 10 minutes to let the flavors develop. You can prepare this up to 2 days in advance.
Starting from the tip, slice the trip-tip against the grain into large chunks about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide and thick, making them as uniform as you can from this irregular cut. Nestle the beef in a bowl, spoon the jerk paste over it, and turn to coat each piece. Let the meat marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature or in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for medium-high heat (375° to 425°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Grill the beef over the hottest part of the grill for 4 to 4½ minutes with the cover closed, then use tongs to flip and grill the other side for another 4 to 4½ minutes for medium rare. For medium, slide the beef to the coolest part of the grill, cover and cook for 2 to 5 minutes longer.
COCONUT-SCALLION RICE
Makes 6 servings
1 (14-OUNCE) CAN REGULAR OR LIGHT COCONUT MILK
1½ CUPS SHORT- OR LONG-GRAIN WHITE RICE
1 TABLESPOON PACKED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR
¾ TEASPOON SALT
1 (1-INCH) CINNAMON STICK
5 SCALLIONS, GREEN PARTS ONLY (RESERVED FROM THE JERK SPICE RUB), VERY THINLY SLICED
Bring the coconut milk and ¾ cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the rice, brown sugar, salt, and cinnamon stick, stir once, and cover the pan. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until all the coconut milk is absorbed and the rice is tender to the bite, 20 to 22 minutes. Discard the cinnamon stick and stir in the scallions just before serving.
TURKISH YOGURT KEBABS WITH GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES
Grilled meats slicked with yogurt are a specialty of the Turks. They understand how the thick, cultured marinade transports flavors into the beef while tenderizing it a bit. It also keeps the beef moist while grilling to make an aromatic cloak.
I use these extra-special kebabs as an excuse to create a Turkish-inspired feast, including a bevy of vegetables, rice pilaf, and pita breads, all displayed on my favorite platters. The accompanying vegetable kebabs, an assortment of eggplant, peppers, zucchini, and cherry tomatoes, make easy end-of-summer party fare when these crops are at their best. After grilling, I use a fork to push all of the vegetables into one big platter and serve the beef kebabs on their skewers. The lemon juice squeezed over the grilled meat makes the whole meal sing.
Makes 6 servings
¾ CUP PLAIN WHOLE YOGURT, PREFERABLY GREEK-STYLE*
5 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, DIVIDED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1 TABLESPOON GRATED ONION
1 TABLESPOON LEMON ZEST
2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED FRESH THYME LEAVES OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED
2 TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED
2 TO 2½ POUNDS TOP SIRLOIN ROAST OR STEAKS, CUT INTO 1½-INCH CUBES
1 SMALL GLOBE EGGPLANT, CUT INTO 1½-INCH CHUNKS
1 LARGE SWEET ONION, PEELED AND CUT INTO WEDGES
2 POBLANO OR BELL PEPPERS, SEEDED AND CUT INTO ROUGHLY 1½-INCH PIECES
2 MEDIUM ZUCCHINI, CUT INTO 1-INCH ROUNDS OR HALF MOONS
1 POUND CHERRY TOMATOES
1 TEASPOON SWEET PAPRIKA
1 LEMON, QUARTERED
To make the marinade, whisk the yogurt, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, garlic, onion, lemon zest, thyme, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a medium mixing bowl until smooth. Thread the beef onto wooden or metal skewers leaving space between the cubes to make 6 beef kebabs. Lay them on a platter. Reserve ⅓ of the marinade for the eggplant and spread the remaining marinade over the beef kebabs. Turn them to coat completely, cover, and marinate for at least 1 hour at room temperature or up to 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Toss the eggplant cubes with the reserved marinade and thread them onto the skewers leaving a little space between them for even cooking. Toss the onion, peppers, zucchini, and tomatoes in a large mixing bowl with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and paprika. Thread the vegetables in an alternating pattern onto skewers.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Put the beef and eggplant kebabs over the hottest part of the grill and the vegetable kebabs over medium heat. Cook the beef, turning 2 to 3 times, for a total of 7½ to 8 minutes for medium rare. The yogurt marinade will dry up and turn faintly brown. Cook the eggplant, turning 2 to 3 times, until they soften and turn translucent, for about 9 minutes. Slide them to the cooler part of the grill if they begin to char. Cook the vegetables until their skins wrinkle and char in spots, turning 2 to 3 times for about 12 minutes. Once you’ve removed the meat, shift the mixed vegetable skewers to the hotter part of the grill if necessary to brown them well. Serve the vegetables on or off the skewers and squeeze the lemon juice over the beef kebabs before serving.
NOTE: Greek-style yogurt is thicker and makes a marinade that will adhere better to the meat. To thicken standard yogurt, strain it through a cheesecloth-lined colander and let it drip in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours overnight. It will lose volume, so start with a scant 1 cup to end up with ¾ cup thickened yogurt. Discard the strained liquid.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top round roast or steak, less expensive than top sirloin, is still tender enough for kebabs. Sirloin tip roast or steak, aka round tip roast or steak, is equally enticing and boneless for easy cubing. |
Tamarind is an intoxicating sour and sweet fruit from Indonesia where satay is the go-to snack on a stick. It is incredible with beef, so I created a tamarind marinade that lacquers thin beef strips to grill or broil. Satay makes a wonderful appetizer; to fill it out for a main dish, I accompany it with another Indonesian favorite, a fruit salad called Rujak (recipe follows), which has as many renditions as pasta salad does in this country. My version is a beautiful chopped salad of cucumbers, jicama, pineapple, and mango that’s crunchy, juicy, sweet, and tart. Served along with Sticky Rice (page 147) or steamed rice, it turns satay into a tantalizing meal, just the thing to wake up your taste buds in the middle of winter.
Makes 4 servings as a main dish; 8 as an appetizer
3 TABLESPOONS TAMARIND PASTE* (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
3 TABLESPOONS HONEY
1 TABLESPOON FISH SAUCE
½ TEASPOON CHILE SAUCE, SUCH AS SAMBAL OELEK
⅛ TEASPOON SALT
½ CUP UNSALTED DRY ROASTED PEANUTS
1 TO 1½ POUNDS TOP SIRLOIN STEAK, SLICED INTO ¼-INCH-THICK STRIPS
Mix the tamarind paste, honey, fish sauce, chile sauce, and salt in a medium-sized bowl. Pound the peanuts in a mortar and pestle or in a heavy-duty plastic bag with a rolling pin to the texture of fine breadcrumbs and stir into the tamarind sauce. Put the beef strips in the bowl, toss to coat, and marinate for about 15 minutes at room temperature or up to 12 hours refrigerated.
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425°F to 475°F), scraping the grate clean and oiling it lightly, or preheat the broiler. Thread the slices onto wooden or metal skewers, stitching the beef on and then stretching it along the skewer so that it looks like a miniature banner. Thread any short strips onto the same skewer.
Grill or broil the skewers for 1½ to 2 minutes per side and serve the satay warm or at room temperature accompanied by the fruit salad, if desired.
NOTE: Tamarind is available from Asian grocery markets in several different forms. Tamarind paste is the easiest form that can be used straight from the jar. If your tamarind is labeled concentrate, use only 1 tablespoon and mix it with 2 tablespoons water. If you have a block of tamarind, chop about ½ cup of it, use a fork to mash it with 6 tablespoons of boiling water, and let it soften for about 5 minutes. Use a fine-meshed strainer to extract 3 tablespoons of pulp, pressing on the mixture firmly with a spoon.
Makes 4 servings
1 SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS LIME JUICE
1 TABLESPOON SUGAR
1 TABLESPOON SOY SAUCE
1 TEASPOON PEANUT OIL OR VEGETABLE OIL
¼ TEASPOON CHILE SAUCE, SUCH AS SAMBAL OELEK
2 MEDIUM CUCUMBERS, PEELED, SEEDED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH CHUNKS
2 CUPS PINEAPPLE, CUT INTO 1-INCH CHUNKS OR 1 (20-OUNCE) CAN PINEAPPLE CHUNKS, DRAINED
1 SMALL JICAMA, PEELED AND CUT INTO MATCHSTICKS
1 FIRM-RIPE MANGO, PEELED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH CHUNKS
1 RED CHILE PEPPER, SEEDED AND THINGLY SLICED INTO ROUNDS, OPTIONAL
SALT TO TASTE
Make the dressing by whisking the shallot, lime juice, sugar, soy sauce, oil, and chile sauce in a bowl. Combine the cucumbers, pineapple, jicama, mango, and chile pepper, if using, in a large mixing bowl. Add the dressing and salt and toss well. Taste for salt and let it sit at room temperature to develop the flavors while you grill or broil the beef satay.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top blade steak, aka flatiron, is one of the remarkably tender cuts from the chuck, just perfect for high-heat cooking and eating off a stick. Top round steak is a somewhat chewier option with standout flavors for this satay. |
Chimichurri is a garlicky green herb sauce, akin to pesto, that is spectacular with beef. Parsley, that most undervalued herb, gets a chance to star in combination with cilantro, oregano, red pepper flakes, and a bracing splash of red wine vinegar. Made famous by the Argentinian perillas (grill restaurants), chimichurri is bold enough to use as a marinade or serve as a sauce. In this recipe, I use it for both purposes, since it’s hard to get enough.
I’m hoping that the chimichurri will lure you into trying beef heart, a cut I’ve come to love grilled. It has a firm texture and concentrated beefiness and cooks in a flash—just like other lean meats. Grilled and accompanied with sirloin steak, chorizo, corn on the cob, and tomatoes, it makes fabulous party food for adventuresome friends. Mix it up as much as you like with other offal, including kidneys, or beef ribs and sausages—or stick with steak—plus as many late-summer vegetables as you can squeeze onto the grill.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
CHIMICHURRI:
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED
4 CUPS LIGHTLY PACKED FRESH PARSLEY LEAVES
2 CUPS LIGHTLY PACKED FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES
1 TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT
¼ CUP RED WINE VINEGAR
2 TEASPOONS DRIED OREGANO
1 TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
¾ CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
MIXED GRILL:
1 BEEF HEART (ABOUT 2 POUNDS), SLICED INTO 1-INCH WIDE STRIPS
2 TOP SIRLOIN STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
12 OUNCES CHORIZO LINKS (PAGE 263)
6 TO 8 EARS CORN ON THE COB, HUSKED AND SILKED
4 TO 6 LARGE TOMATOES, THICKLY SLICED
To make the chimichurri, bring a teakettle of water to a boil. Put the garlic, onion, parsley, and cilantro into a food processor and purée, scraping down the sides as necessary, until it is finely chopped. Put the salt in a separate medium mixing bowl, add ¼ cup of the boiling water, and stir to dissolve it. Add the vinegar, oregano, pepper flakes, and the puréed herbs and stir until well blended. Add the olive oil, stir again, and let it sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes to develop the flavors. Taste for salt. If it zings in your mouth like a strong vinaigrette, it’s just right. This will make 1¾ cups.
Put the beef heart and steak in a shallow dish just large enough to contain them. Add about ¾ cup of the chimichurri to coat them well. Cover and reserve the rest of the chimichurri for serving. Marinate the beef for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Lift the pieces of beef heart and steak from the chimichurri marinade and discard the marinade. Grill the heart and steak over the hottest part of the grill. Cook the heart strips for 2½ to 3 minutes per side, watching the thinner ones. Cook the steak for 3½ to 4 minutes per side for medium rare. (For medium, slide the steak to the coolest part of the grill, close the lid, and cook for 1 to 3 minutes longer.) At the same time, grill the sausages where they’ll fit, turning them 3 to 4 times, until they are nicely browned all over, 7 to 8 minutes. Meanwhile, space the corn around the edges of the grill—or once you’ve removed all the meats—turning every few minutes until lightly browned and tender to the bite, about 12 minutes.
Slice the steak ¼ inch thick against the grain, and cut the sausages into 2-inch serving pieces. Arrange the beef heart, steak, and sausages on a serving platter. Cut each corn cob into three pieces and arrange the corn and tomatoes on a separate platter. Spoon some of the reserved chimichurri over them, passing the rest at the table.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Tri-tip roast from grassfed beef is typically too small to serve a crowd, but this combination fills out the menu. Hanger steak is another excellent grilling cut with substantial flavor and texture. |
The classic Korean barbecue called galbi typically features grilled beef short rib meat marinated in a soy sauce and sesame oil marinade, sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds. Since the bone-in, thinly sliced short ribs called flanken-style or Korean can be hard to find, I substituted skirt steak. Like the ribs, it’s got great chew and beefy character and loves a good, long marinade. Served with steamed rice, kimchee, and gochujang, Korean hot sauce (Sources, page 270), this meal lets everyone assemble it to their own tastes.
Makes 4 servings as an entree; 8 servings as an appetizer
¼ CUP APPLE CIDER
½ CUP SOY SAUCE
6 SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, TRIMMED AND VERY THINLY SLICED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
3 TABLESPOONS PACKED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR
2 TABLESPOONS TOASTED SESAME OIL
2 TABLESPOONS CHINESE RICE WINE OR DRY SHERRY
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
1½ POUNDS SKIRT STEAK, SLICED INTO 4-INCH LONG PIECES
2 TABLESPOONS TOASTED SESAME SEEDS*
¾ TEASPOON SALT
Whisk the cider, soy sauce, scallions, garlic, brown sugar, sesame oil, rice wine, and pepper together in a bowl. Add the beef and marinate it for 3 to 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Mix the sesame seeds with the salt and set it aside. Drain the beef, put it on a dinner plate, and discard the marinade.
Grill the beef over the hottest part of the grill until burnished brown, 2½ to 3 minutes per side. Because it is so thin, it will cook to medium. Sprinkle the beef with the reserved sesame seed mixture before serving warm or at room temperature.
NOTE: Sesame seeds are sold toasted, which are more expensive, and untoasted. To toast your own, heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds, reduce the heat to low, and stand by. As they start to snap, slide the pan back and forth across the burner every 30 seconds until most of the seeds are golden brown, 2 to 2½ minutes. Pour the seeds into a bowl to cool.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Flank steak is another boneless option to marinate and quick-grill. Flanken-style short ribs are thin, crosscut shortribs, the standard for Korean barbecue; use 2 pounds to yield enough meat per serving. |
FLYING GREENS WITH BEEF IN OYSTER SAUCE
The legend of flying greens in Thailand involves shooting flames, smoking oil, and greens on fire. This recipe is not nearly as wild as that, but it still involves quick cooking over high heat—two of the basic principles of stir-frying. Bok choy is crisp and tender and the leaves and stems cook at different times, so be sure to keep them separate. Combined with lean round steak and glossed with sauce, this easy stir-fry is one I enjoy with steamed short- or long-grained brown rice.
Makes 4 servings
1 OUNCE DRIED SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
2 TEASPOONS CORNSTARCH
1 TABLESPOON SOY SAUCE
1¾ TEASPOONS RICE WINE VINEGAR
¼ CUP OYSTER SAUCE
1 TABLESPOON PEANUT OIL OR VEGETABLE OIL
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED (1 TABLESPOON)
¾ TO 1 POUND TOP ROUND STEAK, SLICED INTO ¼ X ¼-INCH STRIPS ABOUT 2 INCHES LONG
1½ POUNDS BOK CHOY, STEMS AND LEAVES SEPARATED AND CHOPPED (ABOUT 6 CUPS TOTAL)
2 DRIED WHOLE RED CHILE PEPPERS, OPTIONAL
Bring a teakettle of water to a boil. Put the dried mushrooms in a small bowl, cover them with boiling water, and let them soak for 15 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving ¼ cup of the soaking liquid. Discard the tough stems from the mushrooms, slice the caps very thin, and set them aside. Whisk the cornstarch with the soy sauce, vinegar, oyster sauce, and the reserved mushroom soaking liquid in a small bowl.
Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the beef and stir-fry just until it is no longer pink. Push it to the outer perimeters of the pan and add the stems of the bok choy to the center where the heat is concentrated. Stir continuously until the bok choy is crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add the bok choy leaves, reserved mushroom caps, and chiles, if using, and stir for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce mixture and stir until the sauce is bubbling and slicks the greens and beef well. Serve immediately.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Eye round is another good and economy-minded choice for this stir-fry. Top sirloin steak is a standard for stir-fry. |
Served at room temperature, Laotian Beef Salad makes a lively light supper for the hottest months. Based on a Southeast Asian favorite called “waterfall beef” that’s similar to larb, this dish is fresh with herbs and the deep, nutty taste of toasted rice. While it can be served raw, I prefer to quick-cook cubes of tender top blade steak, aka flatiron, and use its juices to flavor the dressing and wilt the herbs. I serve it over a bed of baby Asian greens including mizuna and baby bok choy along with Sticky Rice (recipe follows). Substitute red or green leaf lettuce and steamed jasmine rice, if you like.
Makes 4 servings
¼ CUP STICKY RICE OR JASMINE RICE
¾ TO 1 POUND TOP BLADE STEAK, CUT INTO ¼-INCH CUBES (CHOPPING AND MINCING, page 47)
½ TEASPOON SALT
1 TABLESPOON PEANUT OIL OR VEGETABLE OIL
1 LARGE SHALLOT, PEELED AND THINLY SLICED
1-INCH PIECE PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED FRESH GALANGAL OR GINGER (1 TABLESPOON)
1 TABLESPOON LIME JUICE
1 TABLESPOON FISH SAUCE
1 RED CHILE PEPPER, VERY FINELY CHOPPED, SEEDED IF YOU PREFER MILDER HEAT
6 SCALLIONS, BOTH WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, TRIMMED AND VERY THINLY SLICED
1 CUP LIGHTLY PACKED COARSELY CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED COARSELY CHOPPED FRESH MINT LEAVES
Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the rice and toast, shaking the pan now and then, until the grains turn golden and wisps of smoke appear, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder, blender, or mortar and pestle and crush it to a fine powder.
Put the beef in a small bowl and toss well with the salt. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. When it smokes, stir-fry the meat just until it is no longer pink and releases its juices, about 1 minute. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and splash in 1 tablespoon of water to make a small amount of stock.
Make the dressing by combining the shallot, galangal, lime juice, and fish sauce in a small mixing bowl. Add the warm beef with all of the liquid in the bowl and toss. Add the reserved toasted rice and toss along with the chile pepper, scallions, cilantro, and mint and taste for seasoning. Serve it with the sticky rice, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Shoulder tender, aka teres major, is another cut from the chuck that suits this quick-cooking method well. Tenderloin, in small quantities, gets put to good use here when tenderness is paramount. |
This long-grained white rice is often labeled “sweet rice” or “glutinous rice” and turns out just as the name says. My kids cannot get enough of it. Steamed, not boiled, it requires at least a one-hour soak. Bamboo baskets are traditional, but I use my trusty stainless steel pot with a steamer insert and wrap the rice in a dampened cloth napkin. It works great every time and holds for hours when kept moist and warm. It is a delight to eat with stir-fries as well as other sticky foods, like Ginger-Glazed Short Ribs (page 244).
Makes 4 servings
2 CUPS THAI STICKY RICE (KOW NEOW) (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
Put the rice in a bowl, cover by 2 to 3 inches with 100°F water (as warm as bath water you’d want to step into), and soak it for 1 to 2 hours. Alternatively, soak the rice for 4 to 8 hours in room temperature water. When it’s done soaking it will crumble like chalk in your mouth when you chew a few grains. Drain the rice well.
Fill a pot with a steamer basket insert with about 3 inches of water, and make sure that the rice will not be in contact with the water while it steams. Rinse a cloth napkin or cheesecloth in water, squeeze it out, and use it to line the steamer basket. Put the rice into the napkin or cheesecloth and wrap it over the rice to cover it. Cover and bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and steam the rice for 20 minutes. Keep your face away from the steam as you lift the lid and use a spatula to flip the bundle of rice over. Steam for another 10 minutes. Flip the rice again and peek inside the cloth. The rice will be translucent and glossy. Keep the rice wrapped in the cloth, either in the steamer with the heat off or in a serving bowl to keep it moist, until ready to serve.
DRY-FRIED BEEF WITH CRISPY KOHLRABI AND CARROTS
This is not your typical saucy stir-fry, but an arresting mix of chewy, browned slivers of beef and crunchy vegetables. It’s all based on a unique cooking technique called dry-frying, used by Sichuan cooks, that I learned from Fuschia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty. It takes a bit longer than the classic stir-frying method but still relies on high heat and quick action, so be sure to have your ingredients ready to go before turning on the heat and your hood fan.
Kohlrabi, also called cabbage turnip, is a mild bulb that deserves more attention; use peeled broccoli stems, asparagus, or snow peas in its place. Sichuan peppercorn, a tiny and prickly red-brown berry, is less spicy than effervescent in your mouth and creates a tingling sensation that adds to this stir-fry’s appeal. Serve it with cooling Quick-Pickled Cucumber Salad (page 77) and steamed white rice.
Makes 4 servings
1 POUND TOP ROUND STEAK, VERY THINLY SLICED AGAINST THE GRAIN ¼ INCH THICK
¼ TEASPOON SALT
4 TABLESPOONS PEANUT OIL OR VEGETABLE OIL, DIVIDED
3 MEDIUM CARROTS, PEELED AND CUT INTO MATCHSTICKS
1 LARGE KOHLRABI BULB (ABOUT 8 OUNCES), PEELED AND CUT INTO MATCHSTICKS
2-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED, SLICED VERY THIN, AND CUT INTO FINE STRIPS, DIVIDED
6 SCALLIONS, TRIMMED WITH WHITE PARTS CUT INTO MATCHSTICKS AND GREEN PARTS FINELY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE
1 TABLESPOON HOISIN SAUCE
1 TABLESPOON CHINESE RICE WINE OR DRY SHERRY
1 TABLESPOON ORANGE ZEST
¾ TEASPOON TOASTED SESAME OIL
½ TEASPOON TOASTED AND GROUND SICHUAN PEPPER, OPTIONAL* (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
Season the beef with the salt. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. When smoking, add the beef and stir until the beef is no longer pink. Spread the beef out into a single layer and let it cook until the juices have nearly evaporated, about 4 minutes. When the oil is clear once again, stir the beef strips leisurely, until they sizzle and turn mahogany brown, an additional 3 to 3½ minutes. Transfer the beef to a bowl.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil over high heat. Add the carrots and kohlrabi and cook, stirring constantly, until they start to become limp but remain crisp, about 4 minutes. They will pick up color from the beef. Add them to the bowl with the beef.
Add the ginger and the white parts of the scallions and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the soy sauce, hoisin sauce, rice wine, and orange zest and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the beef and vegetables back into the pan along with the sesame oil and stir until hot. Serve immediately, sprinkled with the chopped scallion greens and Sichuan pepper, if using.
NOTE: Toast Sichuan peppercorns as you do any whole spice: heat a small dry skillet over medium-low heat and stand by so it doesn’t burn. Swirl the pan on the burner to roll the spices around a few times until they become fragrant and your kitchen smells like incense.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Sirloin tip steak, aka round tip steak is another more tender option for dry-frying. Top sirloin steak is a ready stand-in for any stir fry. |
Traveling back to Oregon from Seattle on a Tuesday, my husband, Benjamin, and I pulled into a taco stand in central Washington. We had only ten dollars in cash and with that we ate our fill of tacos filled with the seared beef called carne asada. There is no secret marinade or ingredient for the habit-forming tacos sold at roadside stands and food carts: the beef is diced very fine, salted, and then browned on a griddle with onions and cilantro. You get a heaping tablespoon of scrumptious beef on top of two soft corn tortillas and a wedge of lime. It’s up to you to flavor it with a great salsa like this smooth and tart Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa (recipe follows). Be sure to offer bowls full of radishes, cucumbers, and pickled carrots to fill out the meal, which is especially easy and family-friendly for weeknights on the run.
Makes 4 servings
12 OUNCES TOP ROUND STEAK, CUT INTO ⅛-INCH CUBES (CHOPPING AND MINCING, page 47)
1 TEASPOON SALT
2 TEASPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1 WHITE ONION, VERY FINELY CHOPPED
½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
12 CORN TORTILLAS, PREFERABLY FRESHLY MADE
LIME WEDGES, FOR SERVING
SOUR CREAM, FOR SERVING
Just before cooking, put the beef in a medium mixing bowl, sprinkle on the salt and toss to distribute it. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. When it shimmers, add the beef, stir once, and let it cook without stirring until the liquid evaporates and the beef sears and browns, about 4 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, just until it begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the cilantro, and distribute the beef among the tortillas to serve with a squeeze of lime, sour cream, and the salsa, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Tongue is a standard filling for tacos, simmered in water with a clove of garlic and an onion for 3½ to 4 hours until you can pierce it easily with a skewer, peeled, and diced to use in place of steak. Top sirloin steak is a natural for tacos. |
Avocados aren’t just for making guacamole, and this smooth and creamy quick-cooked salsa makes two avocados go far. It involves briefly steaming the tomatillos and jalapeños before puréeing them with the avocados.
Makes 2 cups
6 TOMATILLOS, HUSKS REMOVED AND RINSED
1 JALAPEÑO PEPPER, SEEDED IF YOU PREFER MILDER HEAT
2 RIPE AVOCADOS
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED
¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
½ TEASPOON SALT
Fill a medium saucepan with about 2 inches of water and place the pan over high heat to bring the water to a boil. Add the tomatillos and jalapeño, reduce the heat to low, and steam until the tomatillos turn pale and soft, about 7 minutes.
Transfer the tomatillos and jalapeño with ¼ cup of the cooking liquid into a food processor or blender. Pit and peel the avocado and add it along with the garlic, cilantro, and salt. Purée until the salsa is very smooth and thick but pourable. Pour it into a small serving bowl and let it cool to room temperature before serving. Best eaten the day it is made, it will store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Called kitfo, the tender, lean beef spiced with cardamom and cayenne-spiked butter is a specialty of this east African country. I adore cardamom, but not raw meat. Instead of dressing the chopped beef with the hot spiced butter the traditional way (which you can do if you like), I opted to sauté it to rare and pair it with quick-cooked collard greens or kale to make a transporting supper.
Makes 4 servings
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
3 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, DIVIDED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND VERY THINLY SLICED
1-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED (1 TABLESPOON)
1 MEDIUM ONION, THINLY SLICED
1 POUND COLLARD GREENS OR KALE, TOUGH STEMS REMOVED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 TEASPOON SALT, DIVIDED
½ TEASPOON GROUND CARDAMOM
¼ TEASPOON GROUND TURMERIC
¼ TEASPOON CAYENNE
1 POUND SHOULDER TENDER, CUT INTO ½-INCH CUBES
Heat the oil and melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, add the garlic, ginger, and onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are fragrant and translucent but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the collard greens with ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring now and then, until the greens darken in color but retain some crispness, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer them to a platter and cover to keep warm. (If the greens release excess liquid, drain them before putting them on the platter.)
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the pan over high heat. When it foams, add the cardamom, turmeric, and cayenne and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, just until the meat is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Spoon the beef and all of the butter over the greens, and serve immediately.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top blade steak, aka flatiron, is another exceptionally tender cut from the chuck so long as you trim away the band of sinew while cubing it. Tenderloin tails, saved from your own tenderloin trimming or from an accommodating butcher, are another option for this dish that calls for a very tender cut. |
THAI RED CURRY WITH ROASTED PEANUTS
This nearly instant Thai curry dish is what I make when I need to put together a meal while twenty-minute jasmine rice is steaming. I adapted this recipe from Judy Bastyra’s Thai: The Essence of Thai Cooking, and it couldn’t be simpler. Slivers of beef cook quickly in a sauce rich with coconut milk, peanuts, and prepared Thai red curry paste. I find the bottom round steak cut from a rump roast to offer a nice chew, but if you want tenderness, choose one of the other suggested cuts instead.
Makes 4 servings
¾ CUP ROASTED PEANUTS
1 (14-OUNCE) CAN COCONUT MILK
1 TABLESPOON RED CURRY PASTE (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
2 TABLESPOONS FISH SAUCE
1 TABLESPOON PACKED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR
1 POUND BOTTOM ROUND STEAK, SLICED INTO ¼ × ¼-INCH STRIPS ABOUT 2 INCHES LONG
1 TABLESPOON LIME ZEST
1 TABLESPOON LIME JUICE
12 FRESH BASIL LEAVES, SLICED INTO FINE RIBBONS, OPTIONAL
Put the peanuts into a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag and pulverize with a meat mallet or heavy rolling pin until they are like coarse breadcrumbs. Set them aside.
Bring 1 cup of the coconut milk to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and stir until the cream separates and looks curdled. Whisk in the red curry paste and cook until it darkens in color, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining coconut milk, the fish sauce, and brown sugar and stir until it is very smooth. Add the beef, the reserved peanuts, lime zest, and lime juice and simmer over low heat until the beef is just cooked through and the sauce is thick, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve sprinkled with the basil, if using.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Sirloin tip steak, aka round tip steak, is another cut from the round that is lean and tender. Top round steak is a great choice for this quick-simmered dish. |
This Japanese beef-potato stew contains what in our country is a paltry, laughable, why-bother quantity of meat for four. Simmered in a pleasingly sweet soy sauce broth, just eight ounces of beef becomes a bowl of satisfaction and comfort. A home-style favorite in Japan, this twenty-minute stew is served with rice. Try it over soba noodles or on its own and put some wasabi on the table for those who are partial to its heady kick.
The broth’s backbone is dashi, the Japanese seaweed and fish stock used to make miso soup. Here, I employ instant dashi stock, available in supermarkets, which gives this one-pot dish hints of both land and sea.
Serves 4
3 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE
3 TABLESPOONS MIRIN OR RICE WINE
2 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
1 TEASPOON INSTANT DASHI STOCK, OPTIONAL (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
8 OUNCES TOP SIRLOIN STEAK, CUT INTO STRIPS 1-INCH WIDE AND ½ INCH THICK
1 MEDIUM ONION, THINLY SLICED
3 MEDIUM CARROTS, PEELED AND CUT INTO ½-INCH-THICK ROUNDS
1 POUND SMALL RED POTATOES (ABOUT 4), CUT INTO ROUNDS ½ INCH THICK
2 SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, TRIMMED AND VERY THINLY SLICED
1 TEASPOON DARK SESAME OIL
Bring 2 cups of water to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and dashi stock, if using, and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the beef and skim any foam that rises to the surface. Add the onion, carrots, and potatoes. Cover the pan and simmer until the potatoes and carrots are fork tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the scallions and sesame oil just before serving.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top blade steak, aka flatiron, and shoulder tender, aka teres major, are more tender options for this light and tasty stew. Ground beef, the leaner the better, can be stirred into the simmering broth so that it breaks into crumbles. |
While posole is typically a long-simmered stew, this version is quick. It’s made with tomatillos, a warm-weather crop that grows surprisingly well in our alpine climate. I roast them to a near char to deepen their flavors, then purée them to make a lively base for this stovetop stew. Chock full of hominy—whole preserved corn kernels—and beef cubes, its tartness is rounded out with the garnish of cilantro-sour cream. I eat a bowlful with a spoon in one hand and a warm rolled corn tortilla in the other for dipping.
Makes 4 servings
12 OUNCES TOMATILLOS, HUSKED
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, CHOPPED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
1 TO 2 JALAPEÑOS, SEEDED IF YOU PREFER MILDER HEAT
1 TABLESPOON SUGAR
1½ TEASPOONS SALT
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 POUND TOP ROUND STEAK, CUT INTO ½-INCH CUBES
2 CUPS LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228) OR WATER
1 (29-OUNCE) CAN YELLOW OR WHITE HOMINY, DRAINED
½ CUP SOUR CREAM
½ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
6 SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, TRIMMED AND THINLY SLICED
Preheat the broiler with the oven rack in the highest position. Arrange the tomatillos in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil them until they blister and char, about 5 minutes. They’ll release a lot of juice. Turn them over using tongs and broil the second side. Purée the tomatillos and all of their juices with the onion, garlic, jalapeños, sugar, and salt in a blender until smooth.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo sauce all at once, being careful to avoid splatters. Once it boils, reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce until it thickens and its color darkens a shade or two, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, stock water, and hominy, and simmer gently until the beef is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Taste for salt and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes longer if you’d like it a bit thicker.
Mix the sour cream with the cilantro in a small bowl. Swirl it into individual serving bowls of posole along with a generous sprinkling of the scallions.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top sirloin and sirloin tip, aka round tip, are lean and tender steaks suitable for quick simmering. |
“You have to include bobotie,” said my cookbook-collecting friend, Judy Amster, though I’d never heard of it. Considered the national dish of South Africa, it’s a classic of curried beef baked in a savory custard. I’m always drawn to dishes that give leftover roast beef new life, and now that I’ve tasted it, I can’t quite get enough. The combination of beef with curry, dried apricots, and toasted almonds is a great alternative to roast beef hash. You have the option here to begin with uncooked beef, and this is an especially good use for any of the least tender, lean, but still tasty cuts from the round. It reheats well, and I eat it for brunch on a wintery day. For authenticity, serve it with rice and your favorite chutney.
Makes 6 servings
2 ½-INCH SLICES FIRM WHITE BREAD
1¼ CUPS WHOLE MILK, DIVIDED
2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
2 MEDIUM ONIONS, CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1 TABLESPOON MILD CURRY POWDER
1½ POUNDS BOTTOM ROUND ROAST, FINELY CHOPPED (CHOPPING AND MINCING, page 47)
2 TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2 OUNCES DRIED APRICOTS, CHOPPED (ABOUT ⅓ CUP)
1 TABLESPOON LEMON ZEST
2 EGGS
1 EGG YOLK
PINCH OF GROUND NUTMEG
2 OUNCES SLICED ALMONDS (ABOUT ⅔ CUP)
Preheat the oven to 350°F and lightly grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish or pie plate and set it aside.
Trim the crust from the bread, tear it into bitesized pieces, and soak it in ¼ cup of the milk until saturated, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they turn caramel colored, about 8 minutes.
Add the garlic and curry powder and cook until it is aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the beef, 1¾ teaspoons of the salt, and the pepper and cook, stirring once or twice, until the beef is no longer pink. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the soaked bread, apricots, and lemon zest. Taste for curry powder and salt. Let it cool slightly then beat 1 of the eggs and stir it in until everything is well blended. Spoon the beef mixture into the prepared baking dish.
Prepare the custard topping by whisking the remaining 1 cup milk with the remaining egg, egg yolk, the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, and nutmeg. Pour it over the beef mixture and sprinkle on the almonds. Bake it until the custard is just set and the top is golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Top round, sirloin tip, and eye round, which are more tender than bottom round, can be left more coarsely chopped. Ground beef can replace the hand-chopped beef if you choose extra lean. Leftover steak or roast, trimmed and chopped, shortens the cooking time and slips right into the mixture once the onions and curry powder are cooked. |
AROMATIC EGGPLANT-BEEF TIMBALE
This layered rice, eggplant, beef, and tomato dish is a stunning make-ahead party dish. Beneath the rosette of fresh tomatoes and sandwiched between eggplant slices, chopped lean beef is seasoned with cinnamon and allspice—a spice combination as old as civilization. Inspired by May Bsisu’s recipe in The Arab Table, this version takes less work than lasagna, and you can prepare the eggplant and the beef one day in advance. It presents with the stature of a layer cake and serves up neatly in scoops from the platter, a standout with a crunchy Romaine salad.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
2 MEDIUM EGGPLANTS (ABOUT 2 POUNDS), SLICED INTO ½-INCH-THICK ROUNDS
2¾ TEASPOONS SALT, DIVIDED
1½ CUPS BASMATI OR LONG-GRAIN WHITE RICE
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL, PLUS ADDITIONAL ½ CUP FOR BRUSHING THE EGGPLANT
1 MEDIUM ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1 POUND TOP ROUND STEAK, COARSELY CHOPPED (CHOPPING AND MINCING, page 47)
1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CINNAMON
¾ TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2½ CUPS LOW-SALT BEEF STOCK (SHORT ORDER STOCK, PAGE 226; ROASTED BEEF STOCK, PAGE 228) OR WATER, DIVIDED
1 POUND FIRM, RIPE TOMATOES (ABOUT 2), SLICED ½ INCH THICK
¼ TEASPOON SAFFRON THREADS
1 TABLESPOON PINE NUTS, LIGHTLY TOASTED IN A DRY SKILLET, OPTIONAL
MORE CHOICE CUTS Stew beef, trimmed of any fat and chopped as directed, is put to new use in this baked dish. Ground beef, 90 to 95 percent lean, is a convenient substitute for the top round steak. |
Place a large wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Arrange the eggplant slices on the rack in a single layer and sprinkle them with 1 teaspoon of the salt to expel some of their liquid. Let them drain for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, soak the rice in warm water to cover for 30 minutes, drain it well, and set it aside.
Heat the 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, chopped beef, cinnamon, allspice, ¾ teaspoon of the salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beef begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Add ½ cup of the stock, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the liquid reduces to a film, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Pat the eggplant slices dry, brush them on both sides with the remaining oil, and broil them on the baking sheet in a single layer until they are nicely browned, about 5 minutes per side.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease the bottom of a round, tall-sided 8-cup oven-safe baking dish, such as a soufflé dish. Arrange the tomato slices in an overlapping layer over the bottom. Use half of the eggplant to make a layer of overlapping slices and top with all of the beef mixture. Make another layer with all of the remaining eggplant. Top with the reserved rice.
Combine the remaining 2 cups stock with the saffron and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Pour it over the rice immediately. It will trickle through the layers. Cover the baking dish tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake immediately until the liquid is nearly absorbed and the rice is tender, 65 to 75 minutes. If the rice in the very center is not quite tender, gently stir the rice layer and bake for 15 minutes more.
Let the timbale cool covered for 10 minutes. Invert a large plate over the dish and grip tightly with both hands to flip it over. Slowly lift off the baking dish. Scatter the pine nuts over the top, if using, and serve in generous scoops.
There are many reasons to love this hand pie: within the cracker-crisp crust is a beguiling beef and potato filling spiced with pimentón and cumin. It’s no wonder empanadas are a staple of Argentina (and many other Latin and South American countries, in infinite variations). I’ve kept this close to the classic with smoked paprika and chopped olives that bring excitement to lean beef and diced potato. I love the texture from the hand-chopped beef in these hand pies, which can be a great way to use up a small amount of leftover steak or roast beef. Make these ahead, freeze, and then bake, for either a grab-and-go soccer night supper or first-rate appetizers at your next party.
The Hot Water Pie Dough (recipe follows) is exceptionally user-friendly, but you can substitute frozen puff pastry for convenience, following the method described in the variation.
Makes 18 4 × 2-inch hand pies
1½ POUNDS PIE DOUGH, SUCH AS HOT WATER PIE DOUGH (RECIPE FOLLOWS)
1 SMALL RED POTATO (ABOUT 5 OUNCES), PEELED AND CUT INTO ½-INCH CUBES
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 MEDIUM ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
8 OUNCES TOP SIRLOIN STEAK, FINELY CHOPPED (CHOPPING AND MINCING, page 47)
2 TEASPOONS SMOKED PAPRIKA, SUCH AS PIMENTÓN DE LA VERA (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
2 TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN
½ TEASPOON SALT
⅛ TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES
6 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CUBES
½ CUP PITTED KALAMATA OLIVES, COARSELY CHOPPED
¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
1 EGG, BEATEN
Make the pie dough (opposite page) and chill it for at least 30 minutes. Put the potato in a small saucepan and cover it with water. Bring it to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until it is fork tender, about 6 minutes. Drain well, cover, and set it aside.
Heat the oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion turns translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the beef, paprika, cumin, salt, and pepper flakes and cook until the meat browns, about 8 minutes. Splash in ¼ cup of water and stir in the butter to make a light gravy. Stir in the olives, parsley, and the reserved potato and taste for salt. Transfer the beef mixture to a bowl and chill while you roll out the dough. (You can also store the beef mixture overnight in the refrigerator.)
Dust the counter lightly with flour and have 2 ungreased baking sheets on hand. Divide the dough into 2 pieces and keep 1 wrapped while you work with the other. Roll out the dough very thin—go for ⅛ inch thick. If the dough cracks, let it sit at room temperature for a few minutes to warm up. Use a cutter, plate, jar, or plastic lid about 4 inches in diameter to cut circles of dough and put them in a single layer on the baking sheets. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Collect the scraps of dough and re-roll to make about 18 circles.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put the egg in a small bowl and use a pastry brush to moisten the edges of each circle. Put 1 generous tablespoon of the meat filling in the center of each round, fold the dough over to make a semicircle, and press with your fingers to seal them well. Crimp the edges with your fingers to make a scalloped edge or press with the tines of a fork. Brush them with the egg wash. Space the finished empanadas on one of the ungreased baking sheets and bake until they are golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes. (If freezing the empanadas, do not brush the outside with the egg wash. Crowd them onto a baking sheet, freeze them until firm, and repackage them into resealable freezer bags. Bake them directly from the freezer on ungreased baking sheets—brushing them with egg wash for a more golden crust, if you like—for 22 to 25 minutes.)
VARIATION: Thaw 1 pound frozen puff pastry at room temperature for 40 minutes. Roll out each puff pastry sheet into a 13-inch square ⅛ inch thick. Cut, fill, seal, and brush with egg wash as directed. Bake in a preheated 400°F oven until golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes.
MORE CHOICE CUTS: Bottom round steak, or cube steak, which gives you a head start on hand chopping, both bring great flavor to these and other hand pies. Ground beef is the typical cut found in pastry filling; be sure to use extra-lean. |
What a surprise to stir hot water into flour and make a dough that’s as easy as the homemade play dough I make for my kids. You’ll need to muscle this dough around when rolling, but miraculously, it never gets tough. It bakes into a crust that’s sturdy enough to hold in your hand yet delightfully light and tender. Use this dough to make authentic Baked Argentinian Empanadas (page 159) or any other hand pie, also known as pasties or turnovers, with a filling of leftover pot roast or stew.
Makes 1½ pounds dough, enough for 18 medium-sized empanadas or hand pies
½ CUP WATER
¼ CUP MILK
¾ TEASPOON SALT
6 OUNCES (12 TABLESPOONS) LARD OR VEGETABLE SHORTENING
3 CUPS (13½ OUNCES) ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
Put the water, milk, and salt in a saucepan, stir to dissolve the salt, and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the lard and whisk until it melts and becomes frothy. Remove it from the heat and let it cool slightly. Put the flour into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer.
To mix the dough by hand, pour in the warm liquid and use a rubber spatula to mix vigorously to make a rough dough. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and knead it about 12 times until the dough is supple and fairly smooth. It will have a crinkly surface.
To mix the dough in a stand mixer, put the flour into the mixing bowl and attach the paddle. Pour in the warm liquid and stir on low speed until it collects into a dough. Mix for 1 minute more to knead it. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop. It will be fairly smooth and soft.
Shape the dough into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and chill it for at least 30 minutes before rolling.