Just cut it all up into rib steaks and T-bones,” a customer once told my butcher, Kevin Silveira, voicing a common belief that a cow is a series of steaks from head to haunch. If that were the case, I’d likely never have come back to beef, since it was steak that had turned me into a vegetarian as a teenager. Toward the end of my first summer as a cow-pooling customer, T-bones were some of the few cuts left in my deep freezer. Since I had a deck with a new grill, I lifted out the frosty package. Two ruby-colored steaks coupled in the package fit in my outstretched palm. I’d give it a shot and make a steak dinner for two.
One moonless night seven years later, when we had become a family of four, I was grilling two more T-bones. It was a January night, the temperature was in the teens, and I’d forgotten my flashlight indoors, but when I poked the steaks’ centers with my finger I could tell just by touch that they were ready. As I rushed inside, it dawned on me how fond I’d grown of steak and how comfortable I was cooking it—under any conditions, apparently. Steak anchored a meal that everyone at our table gladly devoured, and it was a welcome accompaniment to anything else I served—from tossed salad and corn on the cob to roasted potatoes and steamed broccoli. On the busiest nights, steak was a quick, no-mess meal I could conjure from scratch in ten minutes or less.
This chapter revels in steak. By definition, this is any thin, flat-sided cut of meat. Some of the steaks you’ll find in this chapter are the steak-house specimens, those prized cross-sections from the tender middle that go by the names of rib-eye, strip loin, Porterhouse, tenderloin, or dozens of other aliases (beauty steak is my favorite). Along with these classic cuts, there are new steaks to try out, known in the restaurant world as flatiron (top blade steak) and culotte (top sirloin cap), which are as tasty as the spendiest steaks. Another group classified as bistro steaks, including flank, skirt, and bavette, or sirloin flap, is collected here. Coarser and chewier, they are naturally thin muscles with great character and an open grain for drinking up marinades.
Grilling is a steak’s best friend, and there are plenty of recipes to keep your interest, if you’re already comfortable with flame and char (within reason). If you’re a novice like I was, or have doubts about grilling grassfed steaks, read through Grassfed Top Blade Steak with Arugula Salad and Scorched Croutons (page 168). This learning recipe will guide you through grilling steaks to whatever doneness you desire, a method you’ll use to make Coriander-Rubbed Sirloin with Pita Bread Salad (page 172) and Tequila-Lime Skirt Steak Fajitas with Roasted Corn Salsa (page 174), just two of the grilled steak recipes in this chapter.
Other recipes bring steak indoors, where a sear in a hot skillet gives them the crust that elevates beef from good to great. From Bistro Steak with Herb Aïoli and Oven Steak Fries (page 186) to Martini Steak Sandwich with Green Olive Tapenade (page 192), you’ll experience variations on searing methods—the ones restaurants use—and learn to trust yourself to turn those burners up high. The bonus of these skillet techniques is that you’ll have a foundation to make pan sauces for superlative meals, such as Filet Mignon in Brandy Sauce with Mixed Mushroom Sauté (page 189). Other recipes demonstrate how steak can become a comfort-food skillet supper, like Steaks Smothered in Bacon-Stout Sauce (page 184), Chicken Fried Steak with Buttermilk Gravy (page 182), and Skillet Steak Peperonata (page 196).
You’ll notice that there are no fourteen-ounce single-serving Porterhouse steaks on this menu. These recipes bring beef portions down to scale and demonstrate two ways to serve less steak—by portioning steaks before cooking or slicing them afterwards. Recipes like T-bone Steak with Fennel-Radicchio Relish and Olive Oil Flatbreads (page 176) feed six with less than two pounds of steak. The one pound of beef called for in Steak Stroganoff (page 191) is enough for four.
The seasonal side dishes accompanying the recipes slant away from the steak and potatoes of yesterday to the farmer’s market produce of today. From grilled romaine for a rib steak (page 170) to Chard-Gorgonzola Gratin for strip loin steak (page 195) and herb sauces (page 166) for any of them, this is steak for everyone to get excited about.
Choice Cuts for Steak
Due to their prevalence and popularity, steaks have the most nicknames of all the beef cuts. Along with the classic steaks from the rib and loin, there are also newer choices from the chuck, or shoulder, and the flank, or underbelly. Bone-in or boneless, these are marbled, lean cuts. However, grassfed steaks tend to be less marbled, leaner, and smaller than conventional beef cuts. As a rule, you’ll encounter more of these steaks in the supermarket, especially the less common ones, during the summer grilling months when demand is high.
BAVETTE, see Sirloin flap steak.
CHUCK-EYE STEAK is a boneless and tender cut from the first cut off the chuck, or shoulder. The main muscle running through the center is a continuation of the rib-eye muscle. It is a well-marbled bargain steak for the grill or skillet.
COULOTTE, see Top sirloin steak.
FLANK STEAK is a thin abdominal muscle from the bottom sirloin with thick meat fibers running in the same direction. Boneless, lean, and full-flavored, it was the original London Broil—cooked quickly with high heat and thinly sliced against the grain. The flank makes a good candidate for stuffing (page 180) and lends itself well to braising (chapter 5, page 100).
FLATIRON, see Top blade steak.
HANGER STEAK, aka hanging tender or onglet, is a boneless cut from the diaphragm. There is only one on every beef. Hanger steak has a stronger taste (some describe as gamey) and a firm texture that lends itself well to marinating. Considered one of the bistro steaks (it is a popular cut in France), it has a band of connective tissue running down the center that can be removed before or after cooking to yield two slender steaks.
PORTERHOUSE is the same cut as a T-bone, a crosscut from the loin section, but contains a larger portion of tenderloin than T-bone and is generally a very thick cut.
RIB STEAK is a bone-in cut from the tender rib section. The muscle tapers toward the chuck, so a larger rib-eye muscle indicates that it was cut toward the loin primal. This is the most marbled of all the premium steaks and many consider its flavor superior to all other steaks. A bone-in rib steak can be called a cowboy steak; boneless it is a rib-eye or Delmonico steak.
SHOULDER TENDER, aka teres major, is a small, boneless, and tender cut from the chuck, or shoulder. Slender and tapered like the tender-loin, it can be roasted whole or cut into medallions for any high-heat cooking method. (Not to be confused with the chuck tender, aka mock tender, which is very tough.)
SIRLOIN FLAP STEAK, aka bavette, is a boneless cut from the bottom sirloin adjacent to the flank with a long even grain, similar to flank steak, but slightly thicker. It is categorized as a bistro steak, one of the less expensive and chewier steaks gaining popularity.
SIRLOIN TIP STEAK, aka round tip steak, is a relatively tender, boneless cut that comes the the knuckle muscle located between the sirloin, or hip, and the round, or hindquarter. It is a suitable substitute for top sirloin steak, especially if you find center cut or side tip steaks, or top round steak.
SKIRT STEAK is a long strip of boneless muscle from the diaphragm that gained popularity as the fajita steak. It has an open, fibrous texture, and a papery membrane that needs to be peeled off before cooking (Trimming, page 51). Similar to the flank steak in texture, skirt steak is typically grilled, but it has a wonderful fall-apart quality when braised. The outside skirt steak is less common than inside skirt, but can be treated in exactly the same manner.
STRIP LOIN STEAK, aka top loin steak, is a bone-in steak cut from the loin once the whole tenderloin muscle has been removed. The premier steakhouse cut, it is known as shell steak, New York Strip, and Kansas City strip. When the whole strip loin muscle is removed from the backbone, it can be cut into boneless steaks.
T-BONE STEAK is a bone-in cross cut from the loin, the premium middle section of beef. The tenderloin muscle sits on one side of the bone and the strip loin muscle on the other. T-bone steaks typically contain a smaller tenderloin eye than Porterhouse steaks, but otherwise differ in name only.
TENDERLOIN STEAK, aka filet mignon, is a cross cut of the long, boneless tenderloin muscle that yields small, rounded steaks also called medallions or tournedos.
TERES MAJOR, see Shoulder tender.
TOP BLADE STEAK, aka flatiron, is one of the newer steaks from the chuck, or shoulder, found to be only second to the tenderloin in tenderness. Depending on how it was butchered, blade steaks may have a line of gristle running through the center, which you can either cut out to make two long, skinny steaks before cooking, or remove it afterwards. It’s becoming more common to find top blade roast, a thin, flat steak with the gristle already removed. If you buy a whole top blade roast, you can butterfly it (page 46), trimming off the gristle to make two flatiron steaks.
TOP ROUND STEAK is a lean, boneless steak from the inside of the round. Less popular than any of the other steaks listed here, it is a good value with great flavor and is most tender when cooked to medium rare.
TOP SIRLOIN STEAK is any boneless, lean steak cut from the sirloin, the large, well-muscled hip area. More economical than strip loin steak or rib steak, sirloin steak is renowned for its excellent flavors. It’s a hearty and versatile cut that takes well to rubs and marinades. The top sirloin cap, aka culotte, is a flap of muscle covering the sirloin that is sometimes separated and cut into steaks.
TRI-TIP STEAK is a boneless steak cut from the triangular trip-tip roast that comes from the bottom sirloin. It is a griller’s favorite for robust rubs or marinades.
 HERB SAUCE FOR STEAK
Chimichurri (page 142) is a popular herb sauce for steak, but it’s not the only one to enjoy. Improvise with all kinds of tender, leafy herbs, such as cilantro, mint, basil, Italian parsley, and oregano to make up your own fresh salsa verde for steak. Use what’s in season, what you have, and whatever suits your mood. I like the texture best when I hand chop the herbs. Cut a clove of garlic into thin slices, sprinkle with a pinch of coarse salt, and using the side of a chef’s knife blade, smear it into a paste. Coarsely chop a generous handful of herbs and stir them into the garlic in a bowl, then drizzle in enough olive oil to make it saucy. Add a splash of sherry vinegar, lemon juice, or capers for punch, add red pepper flakes to taste, and season it well with salt. Let it stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes to bloom. With a well-grilled steak and fresh herbs, you cannot go wrong. |
FLAVORED BUTTER COINS
Butterfat is a wonderful medium to deliver complementary flavors to a steak. Mix any of these flavored butters, roll into a log, chill, and slice ½ inch thick. As soon as a steak comes off the grill or out of the skillet or oven, top it with a coin of butter, which will melt and mingle with the meat juices to create its own sauce. Swirl the butter disks into reduced wine, beer, spirits, or beef stock to enrich a pan sauce such as Filet Mignon in Brandy Sauce (page 189). You can also press a coin into the center of a hamburger when forming patties, whisk a few coins into a stew to give it body and gloss, or butter a baguette for a roast beef sandwich.
All of the flavored butter variations below call for ¼ pound (½ cup or 1 stick) of unsalted butter at room temperature. Mix the butter with the other ingredients listed for each butter flavor in a small bowl, smashing the mixture with a fork until smooth and blended, and add a generous pinch of salt to taste. Transfer to a ramekin to chill or use plastic wrap to roll it into a log and chill it well for slicing round “coins.”
Garlic-Balsamic Butter: Mince 2 garlic cloves and combine with 2 teaspoons of good-quality balsamic vinegar.
Caramelized Shallot Butter: Finely chop 2 shallots and cook in 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil over medium heat, stirring often, until they brown, about 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
Green Butter: Blanch ⅓ cup very finely chopped tender herbs or greens, such as basil, tarragon, or chives in boiling salted water for 30 seconds, which will keep them bright green. Drain well and cool to room temperature.
GRILLED TOP BLADE STEAK WITH ARUGULA SALAD AND SCORCHED CROUTONS
When I crave a steak and a salad, this is what I envision: a small but exquisite piece of grilled beef with a heap of peppery greens and grilled croutons—all drizzled with dressing and meat juices.
Also known as flatiron, top blade steak is a new favorite on restaurant menus because this steak is the second most tender cut of all. It’s a thin cut, about one inch thick, and has no bones to get in the way of a great steak experience. I treat it to nothing more than coarse sea salt to form a crispy crust over the high heat of the grill or a grill pan. Pre-washed baby salad mix, as long as it’s very fresh, makes a fine substitute for the custom blend of arugula and herbs.
Makes 4 servings
2 TOP-BLADE STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
KOSHER SALT
2 THICK SLICES ARTISAN BREAD, CRUSTS REMOVED AND TORN INTO RAGGED 1½-INCH PIECES
2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, DIVIDED
1 TEASPOON SHERRY OR RED WINE VINEGAR
5 OUNCES BABY ARUGULA (ABOUT 6 CUPS)
1 CUP LIGHTLY PACKED FRESH HERB LEAVES, SUCH AS BASIL, PARSLEY, DILL, CHIVES, CHERVIL, TARRAGON, MINT, OR A COMBINATION
FINISHING SALT, SUCH AS COARSE SEA SALT OR FLAKE SALT (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Pat the steaks dry with a paper towel and season liberally with the kosher salt. Toss the bread with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and set it aside.
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Cook the steaks on the hottest part of the grill until seared, 3 to 3½ minutes. Use tongs to flip them and sear the second side for another 3 to 3½ minutes for medium rare. (To cook the steaks medium or beyond, slide them over to the coolest part of the grill and close the cover, then cook for 1 to 4 minutes more.)
Grill the reserved bread croutons while the steaks rest, turning them 2 to 3 times, until they are tinged with brown.
For indoor cooking, heat a grill pan over medium-high heat and pre-heat the broiler. Lay the steaks in the pan and cook without moving them for 3½ to 4 minutes. Use tongs to flip them and sear the second side for an additional 3½ to 4 minutes for medium rare. (To cook the steaks further, slide the pan off the burner but leave the steaks in the pan for 1 to 3 minutes more.) Meanwhile, toast the croutons under the broiler, keeping a sharp eye on them and turning them once, until golden brown.
Transfer the steaks to a cutting board. While they rest, make the salad dressing by whisking the vinegar with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small bowl. Put the arugula and herbs in a salad bowl and toss with the dressing. Slice the steak against the grain into ½-inch-thick slices and put 4 to 5 slices on each plate. Pile a portion of the salad on top of each serving and balance a few croutons on top. Drizzle any meat juices from the cutting board over it all and sprinkle to taste with the finishing salt and black pepper.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Rib-eye and any of the other exceptional grilling steaks, including strip loin and top sirloin, will do quite well here.
Chuck-eye steak is fattier but tender enough to grill. |
RIB-EYE STEAKS AND GRILLED ROMAINE
with Hot Tomato Vinaigrette
The rib-eye is the king of steaks, the most desired for its balance of tenderness, taste, and marbling. To honor it, I keep the seasonings simple with a hit of paprika, and serve it sliced over a wedge of grilled romaine with a bright-tasting tomato vinaigrette. While many enjoy eating a steak off the bone, the boneless rib steak, called rib-eye, is the same cut of meat more readily sliced for serving.
Makes 4 servings
1¼ TEASPOONS KOSHER SALT
¾ TEASPOON SMOKED PAPRIKA, SUCH AS PIMENTÓN DE LA VERA (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2 RIB-EYE STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
1 HEAD ROMAINE LETTUCE
½ CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 SMALL GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED
1 LARGE RIPE TOMATO, CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE
⅛ TEASPOON SALT
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Strip loin steak is another premium steak that’s available bone-in or boneless.
Top sirloin, bavette, or hanger are chewier but great-tasting alternative boneless cuts. |
Mix the kosher salt, paprika, and pepper together in a small bowl. Pat the steaks dry and season them on both sides with the salt blend.
Slice the romaine in half lengthwise, wash it by swishing each half in a large bowl of cool water to rinse out the dirt between the leaves. Place the halves cut side down in a large colander to drain.
Combine the olive oil with the garlic and tomato in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until the oil shimmers and the garlic smells fragrant. Remove the pan from the heat to a warm spot while you prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F). Scrape the grate clean and oil it lightly.
Use a pastry brush to lightly coat the romaine halves with some of the tomato oil and place them cut side down on the outer edges of the grill. Grill the romaine until the cut sides are burnished with grill marks and the outer leaves are wilted. Cut out the core, slice each half into quarters, and set it aside.
Grill the steaks over the hottest part of the grill for 3 to 3½ minutes, then use tongs to flip them and grill for 3 to 3½ minutes on the second side for medium rare. (To cook the steaks medium or beyond, slide them over to the coolest part of the grill and close the cover, then cook for 1 to 4 minutes more.)
Transfer the steaks to a cutting board. While they rest, make the tomato vinaigrette by whisking the lemon juice and salt into the reserved tomato oil. Slice the steaks against the grain ½ inch thick. Place a wedge of romaine and 4 to 5 slices of steak on each plate and spoon the tomato vinaigrette over all.
HAWAIIAN-STYLE TERIYAKI
Sink your teeth into this teriyaki using shoulder tender, aka teres major, a chuck cut nearly as tender as tenderloin at a fraction of the cost. Cut into nuggets, the beef gets three applications of the sweet and salty sauce: first as a marinade, then brushed on after grilling, and finally as a thickened dipping sauce at the table for those who can’t get enough of it.
To serve this Hawaiian style, mound bowls with steamed rice, add handfuls of finely shredded green cabbage and a few chopped scallions, and top with the teriyaki-bathed beef. If you’re feeding big eaters, double the quantity of beef for the same amount of marinade.
Makes 4 servings
½ CUP LOW-SALT SOY SAUCE
5 TABLESPOONS SUGAR
1-INCH PIECE GINGER, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED (1 TABLESPOON)
1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED
1 POUND SHOULDER TENDER, CUT INTO 8 PIECES
2 TABLESPOONS CORNSTARCH
Put the soy sauce and ½ cup water in a measuring cup and stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Add the ginger and garlic. Put the meat in a medium bowl, pour the sauce over it, and marinate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours while you preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high heat (375° to 425°F). Scrape the grate clean and oil it lightly.
Use tongs to hold back the meat in the bowl as you pour the marinade into a small saucepan. Bring the marinade to a simmer over low heat. Whisk the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon of water and whisk into the marinade. Boil until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set it aside.
Grill the beef over the hottest part of the grill for 2 to 2½ minutes then use tongs to flip it and cook on the second side for 2 to 2½ minutes more for medium rare. Since the sizes and shapes vary, you may need to cook thicker pieces 1 to 3 minutes longer. Drizzle the beef with the reserved teriyaki sauce and serve the extra in a small bowl.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Tri-tip and hanger steak, with a coarser texture and more chew, will also please teriyaki steak fans as will easy-to-find sirloin.
Tenderloin tails (the tips of whole tender-loin roasts) make to-die-for teriyaki. Save them if you trim your own tenderloin or find an accommodating butcher to sell them to you for a relative bargain. |
CORIANDER-RUBBED SIRLOIN
with Pita Bread Salad (Fattoush)
Treated to a Middle Eastern-inspired dry rub, a sir-loin steak is ready for the grill. Sirloin steaks, generally sold boneless, are renowned for delivering on flavor, but they can vary in tenderness. Look for or request a center-cut sirloin or top sirloin cap (sometimes sold as culotte), which are single muscle cuts and the most tender and marbled. The accompanying salad is a pita bread salad called fattoush (recipe follows), a mix of summertime vegetables, parsley, and mint tossed with toasted pita bread, and an exotic spice called sumac.
Makes 4 servings
1 TABLESPOON WHOLE CORIANDER SEEDS
1 TEASPOON GROUND CARAWAY
½ TEASPOON SWEET PAPRIKA
1½ TEASPOONS KOSHER SALT
2 TOP SIRLOIN STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
Toast the coriander seeds by heating them in a dry small skillet over medium heat. Stand by while it becomes fragrant and darkens in color, about 1 minute. Quickly remove them from the heat and grind to a powder in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Combine the toasted coriander, caraway, paprika, and kosher salt and mix well. Pat the steaks dry, rub them on both sides with the coriander mixture, and let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Cook the steaks on the hottest part of the grill until seared, 3 to 3½ minutes. Use tongs to flip them and grill the second side for another 3 to 3½ minutes for medium rare. (To cook the steaks medium or beyond, slide them over to the coolest part of the grill and close the cover, then cook for 1 to 4 minutes more.) Let the steaks rest 10 minutes before slicing ½ inch thick against the grain to serve alongside the Pit Bread Salad, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Top round steak, rubbed and grilled to medium rare, may surprise those who don’t think of it as a grilling steak.
T-bone steak and bone-in strip loin steak are both excellent options for simple seasoning and quick grilling. |
PITA BREAD SALAD (FATTOUSH)
Makes 4 servings
2 (6-INCH) ROUNDS PITA BREAD
2 MEDIUM CUCUMBERS, PEELED
3 MEDIUM RIPE TOMATOES, CHOPPED
¼ TEASPOON SALT
3 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TABLESPOON RED WINE VINEGAR
¼ CUP CHOPPED FRESH MINT
¼ CUP LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
4 OUNCES FETA CHEESE, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1 CUP)
3 TABLESPOONS TOASTED SESAME SEEDS (PAGE 144)
1½ TEASPOONS CRUSHED SUMAC, OPTIONAL (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
MIXED SALAD GREENS, FOR SERVING, OPTIONAL
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the pita bread into 1-inch squares, arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet, and toast them in the oven until crisp, about 12 minutes. Slice the cucumbers in half lengthwise, use a teaspoon to scrape out the seeds, and slice them into ½-inch-thick crescents.
Toss the cucumbers, tomatoes, and salt with the oil and vinegar in a large salad bowl. Add the mint, parsley, feta, sesame seeds, and sumac, if using, toss again and taste for seasoning. Toss the salad with the pita bread immediately to soften it or 20 minutes before serving if you like it crisper. Serve the bread salad on a bed of mixed salad greens, if desired.
TEQUILA-LIME SKIRT STEAK FAJITAS
with Roasted Corn Salsa
Skirt steak is the original fajita steak. Nearly a yard long and narrow, like a belt, the fibers of the meat are so coarse, the steak looks woven. This quality lets the marinade do its work, and at less than a half inch thick, skirt steak cooks in a flash. A single steak can feed a crop of friends when wrapped in soft corn tortillas, topped with onion, cabbage, and cilantro to taste, and Roasted Corn Salsa (recipe follows), served alongside bowls full of chopped fresh radishes, cucumbers, and pickled jalapeños.
Makes 6 servings
1 SKIRT STEAK (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS)
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
¾ TEASPOON KOSHER SALT
¼ CUP TEQUILA
2 TABLESPOONS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LIME JUICE
FOR SERVING:
1 DOZEN FRESH CORN OR FLOUR TORTILLAS
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1 CUP SHREDDED GREEN CABBAGE
1 BUNCH FRESH CILANTRO, COARSELY CHOPPED
Use a thin-bladed knife, such as a boning knife, to remove any thin, papery membrane from the steak (Trimming, page 51) and cut it in half. Make a garlic paste by slicing the garlic and sprinkling on the kosher salt. Use the side of a chef’s knife to smash the garlic into a coarse paste. Rub the meat with the garlic paste and lay it in a shallow glass or ceramic dish. Pour in the tequila and lime juice, cover, and marinate it in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 12 for the most prominent flavor and any tenderizing effects.
Drain the steak from the marinade, pat it dry with paper towels, and discard the excess marinade. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly.
When the grill is hot, lay the steaks on the grate and cook for 2½ to 3 minutes. Use tongs to flip them and cook for an additional 2½ to 3 minutes. Because it is thin, it will cook to medium. Slice the steaks against the grain into very thin strips. Pile the meat onto a platter to serve warm or at room temperature along with the tortillas and bowls of the onion, cabbage, cilantro, and the Roasted Corn Salsa, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Flank steak has a thick grain similar to skirt steak, and is just as amenable to marinating.
Sirloin flap steak, aka bavette, is another good griller to be served thinly sliced. |
This chunky salsa makes use of the Mexican technique of dry roasting on the stovetop to cook the corn. The brief scorching adds a nice smoky flavor to this quick-cook salsa, ideal for late summer when both corn and tomatoes are at their peak.
Makes 2 cups
2 EARS FRESH CORN, SHUCKED AND SILKED OR 1½ CUPS FROZEN CORN
2 GARLIC CLOVES, UNPEELED
1 SMALL JALAPEÑO
2 MEDIUM, RIPE TOMATOES, CHOPPED
6 SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS TRIMMED AND THINLY SLICED
1 TABLESPOON LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
2 TEASPOONS LIME JUICE
½ TEASPOON SALT
Hold the corn upright in a large mixing bowl and use a chef’s knife to slice off the kernels. (If using frozen corn, cook it directly from the freezer.)
Heat a large, dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic cloves and jalapeño and let them cook undisturbed until tinged with black, turning them 2 to 3 times. Transfer the garlic and jalapeño to a cutting board, and add the corn to the pan. Cook, stirring frequently, until the kernels are speckled brown and fragrant.
Transfer the corn to a medium mixing bowl. Peel the garlic and chop it finely. Seed the jalapeño if you prefer milder heat and chop it finely. Gently toss them with the corn. Add the tomatoes, scal-lions, cilantro, lime juice, and salt and toss well. Taste the salsa for lime juice and salt and serve it at room temperature with the fajitas.
T-BONE STEAK
with Fennel-Radicchio Relish and Olive Oil Flatbreads
A big grilled steak adorned with a crunchy and shredded vegetable salad is one of my ultimate no-fuss summer meals. Toss sweet fennel and bitter radicchio with a lemony anchovy dressing while the steaks rest. Fold slices of steak and the relish into grilled flatbread, and you create piadina, an Italian-inspired grilled flatbread sandwich. Prepare the Olive Oil Flatbreads in advance (recipe follows) or use store bought.
Makes 6 servings
1 SMALL RED ONION, VERY THINLY SLICED
⅛ TEASPOON ANCHOVY PASTE
1 TABLESPOON LEMON ZEST
2 TABLESPOONS FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE
½ TEASPOON SALT
¼ CUP WALNUT OIL
2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 FENNEL BULB
1 HEAD RADICCHIO OR SMALL ROMAINE, FINELY SLICED INTO RIBBONS
2 T-BONE STEAKS (ABOUT 2 POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
KOSHER SALT
½ CUP TOASTED WALNUT PIECES
2 OUNCES RICOTTA SALATA OR FETA CHEESE, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ½ CUP)
6 FLATBREADS, EITHER OLIVE OIL FLATBREADS (RECIPE FOLLOWS) OR STORE BOUGHT, OPTIONAL
Put the onion in a small bowl, cover with cool water, and let it soak for 5 minutes to mellow its bite. Drain it well, put it into a large mixing bowl, and set it aside.
Make the dressing by whisking the anchovy paste, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt with the walnut oil and olive oil. Set it aside to let the flavors develop.
Trim the fronds from the fennel stems. Chop ½ cup of the fronds for the salad and save the rest for another use or discard them. Trim the stems from the fennel bulb, cut it in half, core it, and slice it as thin as you can using a sharp chef’s knife or a mandoline. Toss the chopped fennel fronds and fennel bulb into the bowl with the onion. Add the radicchio or romaine and toss well. Keep the salad chilled while you grill the steaks.
Pat the steaks dry, season them liberally with the kosher salt, and let them sit at room temperature while you prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (425° to 475°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Grill the steaks for 3½ to 4 minutes per side for medium rare. (To cook the steaks further, slide them to the coolest part of the grill and close the cover, then cook them for 1 to 4 minutes more.) Let the steaks rest 10 minutes while you finish the relish and grill the flatbreads as directed on page 178, if using.
Toss the fennel mixture with just enough of the reserved dressing to coat it lightly. Add the walnuts and cheese and toss again. Taste it for salt and lemon juice. To serve the steaks, slice them perpendicular to the bone ¼ inch thick. Alternatively, cut out the bone (Boning, page 46), toss it to your dog, and slice each meat section separately, trimming excess fat, if you like. Put 3 to 4 slices of steak on each plate along with the relish and any reserved dressing to drizzle directly onto the steaks. Serve with the flatbreads, if desired, to make piadina.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Rib steak is another premium grilling steak, called rib-eye when boneless.
Strip loin steak, from the same tender midsection as the T-bone (or Porterhouse), is a narrower steak with meat on only one side of the bone. |
This quick, tender, easy-to-handle dough is the one I use to make flatbreads for grilled Italian steak sandwiches called piadina and snappy breadsticks for soup (Variation, page 178). It spins together in short order in a food processor and can also be mixed and kneaded in a stand mixer. It is a very sticky dough that bakes into crispy breads. After it rises for forty-five minutes, you can shape it into the form you like and bake it—or try your hand at grilling flatbreads to make piadina, a great party trick.
Makes 8 round 7-inch-wide flatbreads
3½ CUPS (15¾ OUNCES) ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
2¼ TEASPOONS INSTANT OR ACTIVE DRY YEAST
1¾ TEASPOONS SALT
1¼ CUPS WARM WATER (75° TO 80°F)
6 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PLUS ADDITIONAL IF BAKING
To make the dough in a food processor, put the flour, yeast, and salt in the processor bowl fitted with the plastic dough blade. Attach the cover and turn it on for 5 seconds. Put the water and oil in a measuring cup and pour it through the feed tube with the machine running. A ball of dough will form and slap around the bowl. Let the dough spin around 10 times to knead it before stopping the machine. The dough will feel warm, soft, and tacky. Collect any bits of dough from around the bowl and attach them to the ball. Replace the cover on the food processor bowl, slip in the feed tube pusher and let the dough rise for 45 minutes to 1 hour. It will look pillowy, nearly doubling in volume.
To make the dough in a stand mixer, combine the flour, yeast, and salt in the mixing bowl and stir to blend with a rubber spatula. Add the water and olive oil and stir to make a rough dough. Attach the dough hook and knead the dough on medium speed until it is so elastic that strands of dough pull away from the sides of the bowl, 7 to 8 minutes. Scrape down the dough, cover the bowl, and let the dough rise at room temperature for 45 minutes to 1 hour. It will look pillowy, nearly doubling in volume.
To shape the flatbreads, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop. Use a bench knife or chef’s knife to cut it into 8 pieces and flour your hands. Working with each piece of dough, use a rolling pin or your hands to pat and stretch it into rounds roughly 7 inches wide and ⅛ inch thick. The rustic shape is part of its charm, so don’t worry about making them perfect. Dust them with flour and stack them between with layers of parchment or waxed paper. Let them rest and rise slightly while the oven or grill preheats.
To bake the flatbreads, preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil two baking sheets and put 2 of the flatbreads onto each one, spaced 2 inches apart. Bake until they bubble, crisp, and brown in spots, 7 to 8 minutes. Repeat with the remaining flatbreads and serve them warm.
To grill the flatbreads, thoroughly scrape and oil the grate of a preheated hot grill to keep the breads from sticking. Lay the flatbreads two at a time onto the hottest part of the grill and cook until they get grill marks on the bottom, then use tongs to flip them and grill until they are puffed and lightly charred, 2 to 2½ minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining flatbreads and serve warm.
VARIATION: OLIVE OIL BREADSTICKS
Mix, knead, and let the dough rise as directed. Lightly flour the countertop. Scrape the dough from the bowl onto the flour. Use your hands to press it into a rectangle, 12 inches by 6 inches, with the long side facing you.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pour 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil onto each of 2 baking sheets and use your hands to spread it around. Spread the oil left on your hands all over the dough. After wiping your hands dry, sprinkle the dough with coarse salt. (If you’d like to add sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or red pepper flakes, sprinkle them on now and lightly press them into the dough. Some of them will fall off during shaping, but that’s okay.)
Use a pizza cutter or chef’s knife to slice the dough along the long edge ½-inch wide to make 24 strips. Cut the strips in half to make 48 pieces. Stretch the dough by grasping each strip by the ends and lifting it up as if you’re holding a piece of string. Gently bounce the strip of dough until it stretches to the length of your sheet pan. If you like, twist the breadsticks as you lengthen them for show. The breadsticks will be as thin as drinking straws. Place the first 24 breadsticks ¼ inch apart on one of the oiled baking sheets.
Bake until they are toasted brown and crisp, 12 to 13 minutes. Repeat with the second baking sheet. Store them for 1 day at room temperature or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
OLIVE OIL-POACHED STEAKS WITH THYME
Unusual as it may seem, poaching beef in olive oil might be the ideal grassfed cooking method. Heated in a low oven, the olive oil cooks the steaks tenderly, preserves all their moisture, and keeps them warm for ages. (It turns out that submerging cooked steaks in butter or oil is a technique used in fine dining, and we all know how juicy those steaks are.) An instant-read thermometer is an important tool for gauging doneness in this recipe, but if you catch the steaks just before they lose their rosy blush, they’ll be medium rare.
I’ve adapted this recipe from The Herbal Kitchen by Jerry Traunfeld, the chef who taught me all I know about cooking with fresh herbs. In place of tenderloin, I poached chuck-eye steak in thymeand garlic-infused olive oil. (Substitute fresh rosemary, oregano, savory, or a combination.) The chuck-eye steak is just one cut away from a rib-eye, nicely marbled and tender at the center with a border of fattier rib cap meat. It emerges from the olive oil with an earthy-colored exterior and pink center. It’s the perfect occasion for pulling out your exotic sea salts, the flakier and crunchier the better.
This simple technique uses a fair amount of olive oil, so don’t use extra-virgin. While the steaks sit in their golden bath after cooking, I steal some of the oil to make the Mixed Mushroom Sauté (page 190) and sautéed asparagus. Or, serve this with a prepared Chard-Gorgonzola Gratin (page 195) that bakes within twenty minutes once the steaks are cooked and wait, warm and patient.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 CHUCK-EYE STEAKS (ABOUT 2½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
3 SPRIGS FRESH THYME
2½ TO 3 CUPS OLIVE OIL
FINISHING SALT, SUCH AS COARSE SEA SALT OR FLAKE SALT (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Place the steaks in a baking dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer without touching one another or the sides of the dish. Insert the garlic and thyme into the spaces between the steaks and pour in enough oil so that they are completely covered.
Bake the steaks for a total of 35 to 40 minutes; after the first 20 minutes, turn them over to bake for about 15 minutes more before monitoring their temperature with an instant-read thermometer. When the beef is still pink and reaches 125° to 130°F, check the temperature frequently. When the beef is between 132° to 135°F for medium rare, immediately remove the dish from the oven. (Or, leave the steaks for a few more minutes to reach 138° to 140°F for medium.) Since the steaks will not continue cooking, you can hold them in the warm oil until you’re ready to serve. Use tongs to lift the steaks from the oil, slice them ½ inch thick, and serve with finger pinches of the salt to taste. Let the oil cool before discarding it.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Rib-eye steaks, the pricier version of the chuck-eye steak, luxuriates in the olive oil treatment.
Top-blade steak, aka flatiron, is only second to the tenderloin in tenderness and a natural fit for this unique technique. |
FLANK STEAK SPIRALS WITH SPINACH, FIGS, AND FONTINA
and Port Sauce
Grilled, roasted—or even braised—this stuffed flank steak slices into beautiful spirals of savory green filling with melted cheese. Preparing it involves butterflying a flank steak, making a five-minute filling, and rolling it into a roast—all of which can be accomplished one day in advance. Transformed, this thin steak is company fare to serve with Oven Polenta (page 114) or Butternut Squash Bread Pudding (page 206)—side dishes with great holding power.
Makes 4 servings
6 DRIED FIGS, STEMMED AND THINLY SLICED
½ CUP RUBY PORT
1 TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR PREPARING MEAT
1 SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED
12 OUNCES FRESH BABY SPINACH OR 1 (10-OUNCE) BAG FROZEN SPINACH, THAWED AND DRAINED
¼ TEASPOON SALT
⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
1 TEASPOON SHERRY VINEGAR OR RED WINE VINEGAR
⅓ CUP PINE NUTS, TOASTED
2 OUNCES FONTINA OR MOZZARELLA CHEESE, CUT INTO ¼-INCH CUBES (ABOUT ¼ CUP)
1 FLANK STEAK (1 TO 1½ POUNDS)
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
3 TABLESPOONS SALTED BUTTER, CHILLED AND CUT INTO ½-INCH CUBES
Cover the figs with the port in a wide and shallow glass bowl, heat in the microwave until warm, and let steep for at least 30 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook the shallot until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the spinach all at once along with the salt, and let it steam and compress into the skillet. Use tongs to turn the spinach and cook until it wilts. Season it with pepper, stir in the vinegar, and cook for 1 minute more.
Drain the spinach well in a fine-meshed strainer and transfer it to a medium mixing bowl. Drain the figs, reserving the port, and add them to the spinach along with the pine nuts and Fontina. Use the tongs to mix all the ingredients evenly, taste for salt, and put in the refrigerator to chill for at least 20 minutes.
Trim any silverskin from the flank steak (Trimming, page 51) and butterfly it (Butterflying, page 46). Alternatively, if the flank steak is less than 1 inch thick, pound it with a meat mallet to ½ inch thick. With the long side running parallel to the counter, use a fork to spread the spinach filling to within 2 inches of the far edge and 1 inch from the sides. Starting from the edge closest to you, roll the meat tightly over the filling like a cinnamon roll. Tie the roll in 5 to 6 places with butcher’s twine, secure with silicone bands, or use three short wooden skewers to stitch the end closed. If any bits of filling spill out, just tuck them back in the ends. Transfer the steak to a baking sheet, rub it with olive oil, and season it with the kosher salt and pepper.
To grill the flank steak, prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium heat (350° to 375°F), scrape the grate clean, and oil it lightly. Put the flank steak top side down over the coolest part of the grill. Close the cover and grill until an internal-read thermometer reaches 125°F, 20 to 30 minutes. For all-over browning, turn the steak roll 2 to 3 times. Alternatively, roast the steak roll in a preheated 375°F oven until an internal-read thermometer reaches 125°F, 20 to 30 minutes.
Let it rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, make the port sauce by bringing the reserved port to a simmer in a small saucepan. Cook for 2 minutes until the port is syrupy, then reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the cold butter one piece at a time until the sauce is thickened and season it to taste with salt and pepper. To serve, snip the ties from the steak and discard them. Use a sharp, long-bladed knife to slice the flank steak into ½-inch-thick slices and drizzle each piece with the port sauce.
VARIATION: BRAISED FLANK STEAK
Prepare the flank steak as instructed up the point of cooking. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. Transfer the steak to the skillet and brown it well on 2 sides, about 5 minutes per side. Add the reserved port plus ½ cup low-salt beef stock (Short Order Stock, page 226; Roasted Beef Stock, page 228) or water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until you can pry the meat fibers apart at one end easily with a fork, 1¼ to 1½ hours. Transfer the steak to a platter and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. Raise the heat and bring the liquids to a boil. Simmer until they are reduced to ½ cup, about 7 minutes. Strain, if desired, whisk in the butter, and taste for salt before serving over ½-inch-thick slices of steak.
CHICKEN FRIED STEAK
with Buttermilk Gravy
Chicken fried steak is the recipe every ranch wife makes with the tough, cheap steaks from the bottom round. To get this one right, I consulted several local cooks and applied everything I’d ever learned about fried chicken. It turns out that seasoning the meat well and careful frying are the keys to success. Unlike chicken, these less tender beef cuts need a good hammering with a meat mallet to become more tender (one veteran told me, “Pound the hell out of it!”), or you can use mechanically tenderized steaks labeled “cubed” or “Swiss.” My favorite cut is top round, which is more naturally tender and only needs a few blows to pound it thin. I also break from tradition by using buttermilk in the milk gravy because I love the tang it layers onto perfectly crisp, deep-fried grassfed beef. Substitute whole milk if you prefer it. Complete with baked potatoes and steamed broccoli, this is an honest, old-fashioned meal.
Makes 4 servings
2 TOP ROUND STEAKS (ABOUT 1¼ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
¾ CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1¼ TEASPOONS SALT
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2 EGGS, BEATEN WITH 1 TABLESPOON WATER
1½ CUPS COARSE, DRY BREADCRUMBS
VEGETABLE OIL FOR DEEP-FRYING
BUTTERMILK GRAVY:
2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER
2 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1½ CUPS BUTTERMILK
½ TEASPOON SALT
⅛ TEASPOON CAYENNE
Cut each steak in half and work with 1 piece at a time. Put the meat into a gallon-size resealable heavy-duty plastic bag but don’t seal the bag. Pound the steak with a meat mallet or heavy rolling pin until it is an even ¼ to ⅓ inch thick. Remove the steak and re-use the bag to pound the remaining steak.
Whisk the flour with the salt and pepper in a wide, shallow bowl. Put the eggs and breadcrumbs into separate shallow dishes. Dredge each steak through the flour and shake off the excess, dip it into the eggs, letting the excess drip off, and press it into the breadcrumbs to coat the steak completely. Put the breaded steaks onto a large plate. To set the breading, refrigerate the steaks uncovered for at least 20 minutes and up to 12 hours.
To make the gravy, heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until it foams. Whisk in the flour and cook over medium heat until it is golden and smells nutty, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the buttermilk and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often, until the gravy is smooth and as thick as heavy cream, 7 to 8 minutes. Season it with the salt and cayenne, taste for seasoning, cover, and keep it warm over low heat.
When you’re ready to fry the steaks, pour oil to a depth of about two inches into a deep skillet fitted with a deep-fry thermometer and place over medium-high heat. If you own a splatter screen, have it on hand. Lay a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and preheat the oven to 250°F. When the oil registers 350°F or sizzles immediately when you sprinkle in a wisp of flour, add 2 of the steaks. Fry until they are deep golden brown, use tongs to flip them, taking care not to splash the oil, for a total of 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the steaks to the prepared wire rack and keep them warm, uncovered, in the oven. Check that the oil temperature recovers to 350°F before frying the remaining steaks. Serve them as soon as possible with the buttermilk gravy.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Cube steak (mechanically tenderized bottom round steak) saves the work of pounding and is the traditional choice for chicken fried steak.
Sirloin tip steak, aka round tip steak, is lean and fairly tender, like top round steak. |
VARIATION: FINGER STEAKS
For kids or to serve as an appetizer, slice the steaks into strips 1-inch wide and 3 inches long. Dredge in flour, dip into the egg, and coat the meat with the breadcrumbs as directed. Fry the finger steaks in small batches until they are golden brown, sprinkle them with coarse salt, and serve with Tangy Barbecue Sauce (page 223), Herb Aïoli (page 187), or ginger sauce (page 244) for dipping.
STEAKS SMOTHERED IN BACON-STOUT SAUCE
The Italians have perfected turning less popular steaks into wonderful dinners. Pounded thin and dredged in seasoned flour, then fried and paired with a simple sauce, any inexpensive, boneless steak, such as this uncelebrated sirloin tip steak (aka round tip steak), gets to shine. This dark beer sauce is from Adele Nash, a young grassfed beef rancher and professional cook who helped me test recipes for this book. Salty from the bacon, sweet from the onion, and laced with a mild bitterness from the beer, this sauce begs for a side of mashed potatoes. Flour dredging and quick frying is a good general method to use with any of the less tender steaks. For a simpler treatment prepare these crispy cutlets the way I had them in Mexico where they’re called Milanesas: with a dollop of fresh salsa in place of the sauce and accompanied by refried beans and rice.
Makes 4 servings
SAUCE:
8 OUNCES BACON (ABOUT 6 SLICES), FINELY CHOPPED
2 MEDIUM ONIONS, FINELY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
¾ CUP STOUT OR OTHER DARK BEER
¾ CUP MILK
¼ TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
STEAKS:
2 SIRLOIN TIP STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
½ CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS SALTED BUTTER
To make the sauce, preheat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat melts and the bacon begins to brown, about 6 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they turn caramel colored, about 8 minutes. Add the flour, stir until it thickens into a paste and cook for 1 minute more to remove any starchy flavor. Add the beer and milk, whisk to make a thick sauce and bring it to a simmer. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and taste for seasoning. Cover the pan and keep it over low heat while you prepare the steaks.
Working with 1 steak at a time, put it into a gallon-size resealable heavy-duty plastic bag but do not seal the bag. Pound the steak with a meat mallet or heavy rolling pin until the steak is an even ¼ inch thick. Remove the steak and re-use the bag to pound the remaining steak.
Mix the flour with the salt and pepper in a wide, shallow dish. Dredge the steaks in the flour to coat them well, and gently shake off the excess. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack and preheat the oven to 250°F. Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the steaks 1 at a time until golden brown, 1½ to 2 minutes per side. Put them on the rack and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining steaks.
Slip the steaks into the sauce and cover them with it. Serve them immediately, or to hold them, turn off the heat and cover the pan to keep them warm until you’re ready to serve.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Eye round and top round steaks are two more super-lean steaks that perform best with a super-quick sauté. |
BISTRO STEAK WITH HERB AÏOLI
and Oven Steak Fries
When the weather is too inclement to grill, try this high-heat, two-part restaurant technique for steaks. First, you sear the steak on the stovetop then finish cooking in a hot oven. You get a perfectly juicy steak with a beautiful crust. Try a popular bistro steak like hanger, with its coarser texture and satisfying chew. Aïoli (ay-oh-lee), the silken homemade garlicky mayonnaise (recipe follows) is a tasty counterpoint for the steak and is great for dipping fries like the Oven Steak Fries (recipe follows). Be sure to start preparing the fries one hour in advance so they’ll be crisp when the steaks are ready to serve.
Makes 4 servings
1 HANGER STEAK (ABOUT 2 POUNDS)
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CUT IN HALF
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1 TEASPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 TEASPOON BUTTER
1 CUP HERB AÏOLI (RECIPE FOLLOWS)
Divide the steak along the line of gristle running through the center, trim it off, and cut each of the long pieces in half to make 4 serving pieces. Pat them dry, rub with the cut side of the garlic, and season both sides liberally with the kosher salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 475°F and place a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and butter to the pan. When the butter foams, add the steaks and cook to sear the outside for 2 minutes. Use tongs to flip them and sear the second side for 2 minutes more. Put the skillet into the hot oven and roast the steaks 4½ to 5 minutes for medium rare. (To cook the steak further, turn off the oven and leave the steaks inside for 1 to 3 minutes more.) Serve the steaks drizzled with the pan juices, a dollop of the aïoli right alongside it, and a heap of the fries, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Rib-eye, the boneless, well-marbled steak of restaurant fame, can be treated to this skillet-sear and oven-finish method to achieve a crispy, browned crust when cooked to order—preferably medium rare.
Top sirloin steak is another good searing steak with a robust flavor and nice chew. |
Homemade mayonnaise is an affordable luxury that takes minutes to make by hand and less if you own an immersion blender. Use it liberally with steaks and on hamburgers or for a dipping sauce for fried foods, such as Finger Steaks (page 183).
Makes 1 cup
1 EGG YOLK MIXED WITH 1 TABLESPOON WATER*
1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED
1 TEASPOON LEMON JUICE
⅛ TEASPOON SALT
¾ CUP VEGETABLE OIL
2 TEASPOONS FINELY CHOPPED FRESH TARRAGON
1 TEASPOON FINELY CHOPPED FRESH CHIVES
1 TEASPOON LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
To make the aïoli by hand, whisk the yolk, garlic, lemon juice, and salt in a medium mixing bowl until it is frothy and light in color. Wrap a damp kitchen towel around the base of the bowl to stabilize it and put the oil into a measuring cup with a spout. While whisking, trickle the oil down the sides of the bowl allowing time for it to be incorporated. Continue whisking and drizzling until the yolk mixture begins to develop a thicker consistency like yogurt. At this stage, you can increase the flow of oil, pulling back if the mixture begins to look curdled, until all of the oil is used.
To make the aïoli with an immersion blender, put the yolk, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and the oil into the tall canister. Insert the wand all the way to the bottom. Turn the blender on and gradually withdraw the wand until the mixture is thick and smooth, within 1 minute.
Taste the mayonnaise for lemon juice and salt. Add the tarragon, chives, and parsley and stir to blend. Store the aïoli in the refrigerator until ready to use, up to 3 days.
VARIATIONS:
Stir in any of the following ingredients, alone or in combination, into your aïoli to make it more like remoulade or tartar sauce:
½ teaspoon anchovy paste
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
2 tablespoons finely chopped dill pickles
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ cup cooked and smashed chickpeas
NOTE: If consuming raw eggs is a concern for you (because you are feeding small children, are pregnant or elderly, or have an immune system disorder), simply whisk the garlic and herbs with 1 cup of your favorite jarred mayonnaise. Include as many of the ingredients in the variations as you like.
Now that I make French fries in the oven instead of the deep fryer—a production that took up the stove-top and dominated my attention—they are no longer only for special occasions. These golden, hand-cut fries turn out extra-crisp every time, and their hand-cut irregularities are part of their appeal. I use a speedy boiling water rinse to remove some of the excess starch for better crunch. Beef suet and duck fat make dynamite fries, but olive oil is excellent, too.
Makes 4 servings
2 POUNDS YUKON GOLD POTATOES (ABOUT 6 MEDIUM), WELL-SCRUBBED
2 TABLESPOONS MELTED BEEF SUET, DUCK FAT, OR EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TEASPOON COARSE SEA SALT
Slice 1 of the potatoes in half the long way. Turn the halves cut side down, side by side on the cutting board and cut them lengthwise into ⅜-inch-thick slices. Repeat with the remaining potatoes. (You can prepare the potatoes up to 1 day in advance and hold them submerged in cool water in the refrigerator to prevent browning.)
Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil over high heat in a stockpot. When the water comes to a boil, add the potatoes, and boil for 1 minute. Drain the potatoes well and put them back in the pot uncovered over low heat to steam dry for 5 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 475°F. Toss the potatoes with the suet so that they are glossy all over. Add the salt, toss them again and spread them out in a single layer on the baking sheet. Roast the potatoes, turning them 2 to 3 times, until they are deep golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.
FILET MIGNON IN BRANDY SAUCE
with Mixed Mushroom Sauté
Here is a steak from classic French cuisine to add to your bag of steak tricks. It sounds luxurious, but it’s actually a quick meal of sautéed steaks and an easy pan sauce. If you don’t have a supply of Frozen Stock Cubes (page 230) to finish the brandy sauce, use a store-bought demi-glace base, or skip that step and just swirl in the butter. The accompanying Mixed Mushroom Sauté (recipe follows) will more than make up for it.
Makes 4 servings
4 TENDERLOIN STEAKS (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), 1¼ TO 1½ INCHES THICK
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
3 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, CHILLED AND DIVIDED
2 SHALLOTS, FINELY CHOPPED
¼ CUP BRANDY
2 TABLESPOONS FROZEN STOCK CUBES (page 230) OR DEMI-GLACE, OPTIONAL
Pat the steaks dry and season both sides liberally with the kosher salt and pepper. Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, add the steaks and cook without moving them until well browned, 3 to 3½ minutes. Use tongs to flip them and brown the second side, 3 to 3½ minutes more for medium rare. (For medium, reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 to 4 minutes more.) Transfer the steaks to a dinner plate and cover them with aluminum foil to keep them warm.
Add the shallots to the pan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, for 30 seconds until fragrant. Remove the pan from the heat while you add the brandy to prevent a flare up. Reduce the heat to low and stir with a wooden spoon to scrape all the browned bits from the pan. Simmer the brandy for 30 seconds to reduce it slightly, add the stock cubes, if using, and cook until they melt.
Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and whisk to make a smooth sauce. Add any of the meat juices from the resting steaks. Put 1 steak on each plate, spoon the sauce over it, and serve with a portion of the Mushroom Sauté, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Shoulder tender, aka teres major, if you can find this newly touted chuck cut, is wonderfully tender, too. Tapered like the tenderloin, it can be crosscut into round steak medallions for a quick sauté.
Chuck-eye steak, another boneless cut from the chuck, contains a round rib-eye muscle you can cut out to make a nicely marbled medallion (page 49). |
Makes 4 servings
1 TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TABLESPOON UNSALTED BUTTER
1½ POUNDS FRESH MIXED MUSHROOMS, SUCH AS CREMINI, PORTABELLA, WHITE BUTTON, AND SHIITAKE, THINLY SLICED*
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
½ TEASPOON SALT
2 TABLESPOONS LIGHTLY PACKED CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
⅛ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
2 TABLESPOONS HEAVY CREAM, OPTIONAL
Place a large skillet over medium heat with the oil and butter. When the butter foams, add the mushrooms, garlic, and salt. Like sponges, the mushrooms will immediately absorb all the fat in the pan. Stir the mushrooms until they start to release their moisture and shrink, about 2 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high so that you hear a steady sizzle. In about 5 minutes, the liquid will evaporate and the mushrooms will begin to brown. Cook them, stirring only occasionally, until many are tinged with color, about 3 minutes more. Turn off the heat, toss the mushrooms with the parsley, pepper, and the cream, if using, and taste for salt.
NOTE: No matter if the mushrooms are wild or commercially grown, I always wash the dirt from them that a brush just cannot remove. Just before cooking, fill a big bowl with cool water, swish the mushrooms around like a washing machine agitator, and lift them out to drain in a colander. Use them promptly.
STEAK STROGANOFF
It feels like a magic trick to make a meal for four from a single premium steak like strip loin. Once you sear the steak to rare (don’t worry if you like it cooked further, the steak will cook again in the sauce), you slice it into strips to heat in the creamy sauce. Serve this Russian-born dish the all-American way, over boiled egg noodles. Since it’s rich, I prefer it over a heap of steamed greens.
Makes 4 servings
1 BONELESS STRIP LOIN STEAK (8 TO 12 OUNCES), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER, DIVIDED
1 SMALL ONION, THINLY SLICED
8 OUNCES MUSHROOMS, SLICED
¼ TEASPOON SALT
2 TABLESPOONS DRY SHERRY
½ CUP HEAVY CREAM
½ CUP SOUR CREAM
1 TEASPOON DIJON MUSTARD
1 TABLESPOON FRESH CHOPPED DILL OR 1½ TEASPOONS DRIED
Pat the steak dry and season it liberally with the kosher salt and pepper on both sides. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over high heat. When it foams, add the steak and cook without disturbing for 2½ to 3 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side for an additional 2½ to 3 minutes. Transfer it to a cutting board to rest.
Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and cook the onion, stirring, until it turns translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they release their juices. Add the sherry and cook until most of the liquid evaporates, about 8 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until bubbling and thick, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the sour cream and mustard, and taste for salt and pepper.
Slice the steak against the grain into ¼-inch-thick strips. It will be rare. Stir the strips into the sauce to rewarm, and, if you prefer the steak more done, cook it in the sauce over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes more. Stir in the dill just before serving.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Rib-eye is another deluxe steak option for this quick skillet supper.
Top round steak is very lean, and tender enough when cooked quickly and sliced thin. |
MARTINI STEAK SANDWICH
with Green Olive Tapenade
I’m a fan of a gin martini with two olives. Juniper berries, the tiny fruits fermented into gin, are piney and tart, so I created a juniper berry-rubbed steak sandwich with vermouth pan sauce to serve on baguettes with the olive relish called tapenade.
This quick-sear technique is best for thin steaks like the now-popular sirloin flap often called by its French name, bavette. This high-heat technique nearly blackens the steak but leaves it perfectly pink inside. Turn on the fan hood before you begin searing the steaks.
Makes 4 servings
TAPENADE:
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED
2 ANCHOVIES, RINSED
2 TEASPOONS CAPERS, RINSED
4 OUNCES BRINED GREEN OLIVES, SUCH AS MANZANILLA OR PICHOLINE, PITTED (ABOUT 1 CUP)
4 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TEASPOON LEMON ZEST
1 TABLESPOON LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
STEAKS:
1 TABLESPOON WHOLE JUNIPER BERRIES
½ TEASPOON WHOLE GREEN OR BLACK PEPPER-CORNS
1 SIRLOIN FLAP STEAK AKA BAVATTE (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS), CUT INTO 4 SERVING PIECES
KOSHER SALT
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
½ CUP DRY VERMOUTH
1 TABLESPOON GIN, OPTIONAL
8 ½-INCH-THICK SLICES CRUSTY PEASANT-STYLE BREAD
To make the tapenade in a food processor, put the garlic, anchovies, capers, and olives in the processor bowl and pulse, pausing to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until evenly chopped. Alternatively, mince the ingredients using a sharp chef’s knife and a steady rocking motion. Put the chopped olive mixture in a small bowl and stir in the olive oil, lemon zest, and parsley. The recipe makes about 1 cup and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Crush the juniper berries and peppercorns in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder until they are as coarse as coffee grounds. Pat the steaks dry, season them liberally with the kosher salt, and sprinkle on the juniper berry rub, massaging it gently into the meat.
Place the oil in a large skillet over high heat. When it smokes, add the steaks and cook until well-browned, 2½ to 3 minutes. Use tongs to flip them and cook on the second side for an additional 2½ to 3 minutes for medium rare. (For medium, lower the heat to low and cook the steaks for 1 to 3 minutes more.) Transfer the steaks to rest on a cutting board while you make the sauce.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Take the pan off the heat while you add the vermouth and gin, if using, to avoid a flare up. Set it back on the burner and simmer until a thin glaze of about 3 tablespoons of liquid remains in the pan, about 3 minutes.
Toast the bread slices and thinly slice the steak against the grain. For each sandwich, drizzle the vermouth sauce onto a slice of bread and generously layer on slices of steak. Spread the other slice of bread with about 1 tablespoon of the tapenade and press it down on top of the steak. Alternatively, serve slices of the steak with the vermouth sauce spooned on top, a generous dollop of tapenade, and the toasted bread on the side.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Flank steak and skirt steak, two other bistro-style steaks, stand up to this flash-in-the-pan method.
Top round steak is another steak best when quickly seared. |
SALT-SEARED STEAK
with Chard-Gorgonzola Gratin
This recipe brings the steakhouse experience home with a well-crusted steak and dark leafy greens in a blue cheese gratin. The technique of searing on coarse sea salt, such as sel gris, is a novel one for indoor steak cookery. Salt can handle heat up to 1200°F and sprinkling it into a blazing hot cast-iron skillet produces a wonderfully seared and seasoned crust on the steak that’s a deep rosy pink inside. The Chard-Gorgonzola Gratin (recipe follows) provides double duty as a side dish and a creamy sauce for the steak. You can prepare the gratin one day in advance to bake while the steaks are cooking and resting. If you like, serve the steaks with one of the Flavored Butter Coins (page 167) melted on top.
Makes 4 servings
2 TABLESPOONS COARSE SEA SALT
2 BONELESS STRIP LOIN STEAKS (ABOUT 1¼ POUNDS), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER, FOR SERVING
Put the salt into a large dry cast-iron skillet, shake the pan and use your fingers to disperse it evenly. Place the skillet over medium-high heat and pat the steaks dry. When the salt crackles and snaps, after about 3 minutes, lay the steaks on top and cook without moving them for 3½ to 4 minutes. The salt will pop and crackle loudly, but it can withstand intense heat, so don’t worry, it can’t burn. Use tongs to flip the steaks and cook for 3½ to 4 minutes more for medium rare. (To cook to medium or beyond, slide the pan off the burner and leave the steaks in the pan to finish cooking with the residual heat, 1 to 3 minutes more.) Let the pan cool completely before discarding the salt.
Transfer the steaks to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes. Brush any excess salt crystals from the steaks and sprinkle them with black pepper to taste. Slice them ½ inch thick against the grain and serve alongside the chard gratin, if desired.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Boneless, premium steaks, including rib-eye, strip loin, as well as the lesser known top-blade steak, aka flatiron, all revel in this simple salt treatment.
Ground beef, formed into hamburger patties, gets a beautifully browned and tasty crust with this salt-searing technique. |
Using both the leaves and stems of the chard brings a depth of flavor and texture to this creamy baked side dish. Substitute one pound fresh or frozen spinach if desired (see Note).
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1 POUND FRESH CHARD, STEMS AND LEAVES SEPARATED*
4 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, DIVIDED
3 TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1½ CUPS MILK, DIVIDED
¼ TEASPOON SALT
¼ TEASPOON BLACK PEPPER
4 OUNCES GORGONZOLA OR GOOD-QUALITY BLUE CHEESE, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1 CUP)
½ CUP COARSE, DRY BREADCRUMBS
NOTE: To substitute fresh spinach, cook it as directed for the chard, squeezing out as much of the moisture as possible before mixing it with the cream sauce. To substitute frozen, use a 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry.
Chop the chard stems into ½-inch-long pieces. Coarsely chop the leaves and set them aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the chard stems and cook until they turn translucent and fork tender, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a colander to drain.
When the water comes back to a boil, plunge in the chard leaves. Cook for 2 minutes and transfer them to the bowl with the chard stems. Use the back of the spoon to press out as much of the water as you can.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When it foams, add the flour and cook, stirring, until the flour paste is very smooth and smells nutty, about 2 minutes. Whisk in ½ cup of the milk. Use a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon to collect the flour from corners of the pan, then whisk until thick and smooth.
Add the remaining 1 cup of milk, salt, and pepper and whisk vigorously until the sauce boils and becomes as thick and smooth as heavy cream. Simmer the sauce for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat, whisk the blue cheese into the sauce until it is smooth again, and taste for salt. Add the chard to the cream sauce and stir until it is well blended. Spoon the chard mixture into a 9-inch square or round shallow baking dish. (You can prepare it in advance up to this point and store it overnight covered in the refrigerator.)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and mix it with the breadcrumbs in a small bowl with a fork until they are moistened. Spread the breadcrumbs over the chard in an even layer and tamp them down lightly. Bake the gratin uncovered until the cream sauce is bubbling and the breadcrumbs are golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes (or 20 to 25 minutes if chilled overnight).
SKILLET STEAK PEPERONATA
With an ample mix of sweet peppers, a single steak makes my kind of steak supper—fresh, light, and a little unexpected. Peperonata is a delectable Italian condiment that I married with steak for a taste that’s reminiscent of a great pepper steak sandwich. Serve this colorful sauté with orzo, Oven Polenta (page 114), or spaghetti squash (page 91). You could go all the way and turn this into a submarine sandwich on a toasted roll or wrapped in Olive Oil Flatbreads (page 177). The recipe makes ample peperonata to load it up.
Makes 4 servings
3 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, DIVIDED
1 RED ONION, THINLY SLICED
3 MEDIUM BELL PEPPERS (RED, YELLOW, ORANGE, OR A COMBINATION), CORED AND SLICED INTO THIN STRIPS
1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED
¾ TEASPOON SALT
½ TEASPOON SMOKED PAPRIKA, SUCH AS PIMENTÓN DE LA VERA (SOURCES, PAGE 272)
PINCH OF RED PEPPER FLAKES
½ CUP TOMATO SAUCE
2 TABLESPOONS LIGHTLY PACKED FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY
1 TABLESPOON SHERRY VINEGAR OR RED WINE VINEGAR
1 TOP SIRLOIN STEAK (8 TO 12 OUNCES), 1 TO 1¼ INCHES THICK
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are limp and begin to brown, about 8 minutes.
Add the garlic, salt, paprika, and pepper flakes, and cook until it becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato sauce, parsley, and vinegar and cook until the sauce thickens to nearly a paste and the peppers are tender, about 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Spoon the mixture into a bowl and keep it warm in the oven. Wipe out the skillet to cook the steak.
Pat the steak dry and season it liberally with the kosher salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in the skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the steak and brown it for 3 to 3½ minutes. Use tongs to flip it and brown the second side for an additional 3 to 3½ minutes for medium rare. (To cook to medium or beyond, slide the pan off the burner and leave the steaks in the pan to finish cooking with the residual heat, 1 to 3 minutes more.) Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let it rest. Slice it across the grain into ¼-inch strips. Serve slices topped with the peperonata or toss them with the pepper mix if serving with bread or as a topping.
MORE CHOICE CUTS:
Top round steak is wonderfully lean with excellent beefy flavors for this bold combination.
Tri-tip steak has a pleasing coarse texture for this rustic steak supper. |