4

Knit

Knitting is one of the many ways to turn a single strand of fiber into fabric; when you knit, you do that using two knitting needles. If you’ve ever had a beloved aunt or uncle knit you a sweater, you know what knitting looks like: even though the fabric seems like a solid thing, when you look closely at it, you can see the rows and rows of little stitches that went into making it. You might be surprised to look closely at other finer, smoother knit fabrics — a T-shirt, for example — and see that those, too, are made up of teeny-tiny stitches that are actually knit on a huge machine!

Knitting is a bit like riding a bike: it’s a little tricky to learn, but once you do, you never forget how. (You might think you’ve forgotten, but once you have the knitting needles and yarn in your hands, it usually comes right back to you.) For us, the very best way to learn a skill like knitting is to find someone who knows how to knit.

But if you don’t have a grandmother, uncle, friend, or babysitter who can help you in person, we’ve done our best to give you pictures and instruction that will help you learn. After you study our examples, you might even check out some online videos for a tiny bit more help. And even if you can ask an experienced knitter for advice, our how-to directions will still help you remember what to do when.

Be patient when you’re learning, and try to remember that knitting takes time — even if you’re excited to see your finished project. We like knitting in the winter, when we’re cozy inside.

You’ll see throughout this chapter that we specify different types and weights of yarn, and different sizes and thicknesses of knitting needles. But honestly? We’ve done a lot of knitting with whatever yarn and needles we found around the house! The main thing is to use needles that aren’t too skinny, unless you want to spend a looong time on your knitting project. And use yarn you love, since you’re going to be spending a lot of time with it.

Getting Started

What You Need

Yarn. When you’re just practicing, you can use any yarn at all. You may have some lying around from other craft projects, or you can ask your grandparents, uncle, or babysitter if they have any to spare. But for projects that are going to take a lot of time, it’s nice to get wool or cotton yarn, or a fun or crazy yarn that feels special to you. Yarn is sold in balls, looser skeins, and looped bundles called hanks. It’s also sold in different weights, which refers to the thickness of the strand and the size of the needle that you’d ideally use to knit it with. For each of the projects in this chapter, we’ll give you yarn weight suggestions.

Knitting needles. These look like sharpened pencils (double-pointed needles have tips on both ends), and they can be made of wood, plastic, or metal. They come in lots of sizes and thicknesses: the most common range from US 1 (2.25 mm), the slenderest, to US 17 (12 mm), the thickest. If you’re knitting with thinner yarn, ideally you’ll want to use thinner needles; if you’re using thicker yarn, pair it with thicker needles. As a rule, thicker needles will knit up your project more quickly than thinner ones will — so use thicker wool and needles if you’re craving a speedy finish. In a pinch, you can sharpen 14–inch dowels or chopsticks with a pencil sharpener and smooth them with sandpaper to make your own knitting needles.

Sharp wide-eyed sewing needle. Use a sharp needle with an eye that your yarn can fit through, for sewing up knitted projects that require it.

Blunt-tipped wide-eyed needle. Use a dull needle with an eye that your yarn can fit through for weaving in the ends of your yarn.

Scissors. You’ll need scissors for cutting your yarn, but it doesn’t matter too much what kind they are, since it’s not a lot of cutting.

Circular knitting needles. These look like a pair of short knitting needles connected with a plastic or wire cord. They’re for knitting around and around to create a tube shape, and we use them to knit the Cord-Slung Backpack and the I-Cord Jump Rope.

Straight knitting needles

Tape measure or ruler. You might need one for measuring your projects as you work on them.

Did You Know?

Knitting Is Old!

This Egyptian sock from around 400 CE shows an early form of knitting.

Our word knit comes from the Old English word for “knot”: cnyttan. Long before the Middle Ages, though, people were knitting. For example, archaeologists in Egypt have found complicated knitted cotton socks that date back to 1000 CE — and they’re thought to be the earliest example of knitting that we have. Many of the socks have Arabic blessings knit into them, as well as symbols to ward off evil.

How to

Wind Yarn into a Ball

Some yarn comes in a ball or in a looser skein, which makes life very easy, because you can knit directly from it! And some yarn comes in a hank, where it has been looped into a loose twist. If you try to knit from a hank, the yarn can get tangled, which is super frustrating!

To turn your hank into a ball, untwist it so that it’s a big loop, and wrap it around the back of a chair, your own knees, or the outstretched arms of a patient friend. Where the yarn is tied together with little pieces of yarn, cut them.

Now find the end of the yarn and start winding it with one hand loosely around four fingers of your other hand. After you’ve made a little bundle of loops, slip it off your hand and keep winding so that you’re now wrapping the yarn around the middle of the bundle.

Rotate the ball as you wind so that it grows evenly; the bigger it gets, the easier it will be, and then you’ll run out of yarn and be done. You might want to keep the ball in a tote bag or even a bowl while you’re knitting, so it doesn’t roll away and turn into an accidental cat toy!

How to

Make a Slip Knot

A slip knot is a very basic first step in most knitting and crocheting projects. It creates a loop that can be tightened around the knitting needle or crochet hook.

  1. 1. Make a loop with your yarn, leaving a tail about 6 inches long underneath the working yarn, which is the strand connected to your ball.
  2. 2. With your thumb and index finger, reach down through the loop and grab the working strand of yarn just below where it crosses the tail, pulling it up and through your original loop to create a new loop.
How to

Cast On

Casting on is making a first row of stitches on your needle, which will be the foundation of the rest of your knitting. There are many ways to cast on, and this is one of the easiest around. For this method, you will use only one knitting needle.

  1. 1. Make a slip knot (see How to Make a Slop Knot), then push your needle into the loop and tighten it (not too tight) by pulling the working yarn. Hold the needle in your right hand and the working yarn in your left hand.
  2. 2. Turn your left wrist so that the yarn coming from the needle loops over the top of your thumb. You’ll be holding the working yarn against your palm with the fingers of your left hand. Hook the tip of the needle around the left side of the working yarn.
  3. 3. Push the tip of the needle up into the bottom of the loop you’ve made, between your thumb and your fingers.
  4. 4. Slide your thumb out and pull down with your left fingers to tighten the stitch (not too tight) onto the needle.
  5. 5. Repeat steps 2–4 until you have the number of stitches you need for your project.
How to

Knit Rows

You’ve got your stitches cast on! Now it’s time to knit. This kind of basic back-and-forth knitting creates a pattern called garter stitch, which makes a thick, stretchy fabric. We love how it looks.

  1. 1. Cast on (see How to Cast On) however many stitches you need.
  2. 2. Hold the needle that has the cast-on stitches on it in your left hand, with the ball of yarn behind the needle. Hold the other needle in your right hand and push the tip of the right needle up through the bottom of the first stitch on the left needle from the front to the back. The two needles will cross, with the right needle behind the left one.
  3. 3. Using your left thumb and index finger, hold the needles together at the crossed point, and with your right hand, wrap the working yarn counterclockwise around the right needle, sliding it between the two needles so it comes out on the right, in front of the back needle.
  4. 4. Holding both the right needle and the working yarn in your right hand, trace the tip of the right needle down the back of the left needle and up through the first stitch. This will put one stitch on your right needle. Use the right needle to push this stitch completely off the left needle. You’ve made a stitch! (It gets easier, honestly. Much, much easier.)
  5. 5. Repeat steps 2–4 to finish the row. Use your left hand as needed to push the stitches closer to the top of the needle as you work through the row.

    At the end of the row, all of the stitches will be on the right needle. Simply move that needle into your left hand and the empty needle into your right hand, and start knitting another row!

    The first row is the hardest, even for experienced knitters. Cast-on stitches can feel too tight or too loose, and it can seem like the project is going to look terrible. Don’t worry! The second row will be much better.

Try Not to (if You Can Help It)

. . . Pull the yarn too tight as you loop it, or it will get harder and harder to knit.

. . . Stop knitting in the middle of a row — to help with the dishes or to get another handful of tortilla chips — because it’s easy to get confused about where you left off. (Plus, now you have a handy procrastination technique! “In a minute!” you can yell. “As soon as I’m done with my row!”)

. . . Panic if all your stitches slide off the needle! Just thread the needle back through the dropped stitches as best you can and keep going.

How to

Cast Off

Also called binding off, this is the way you get your knitting off the needles at the end of the project without everything unraveling.

  1. 1. Knit the first 2 stitches in the row.
  2. 2. Use the tip of your left needle — or your left thumb and index finger — to pull the first stitch (farther from the needle tip) on the right needle . . .

    . . . over the second stitch (closer to the needle tip) and then over the tip and off the needle completely. There will be only 1 stitch on the right needle.

  3. 3. Knit the next stitch.
  4. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to the end of the row, at which point you will have only 1 stitch left on your needle.
  5. 5. Cut your working yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Slide your needle out of the stitch, leaving a loop. Thread the end of the tail into this loop, and pull gently to tighten.
How to

Weave in Ends

Once you’re done knitting (or crocheting) — or when you change colors in the middle of your project — you’ll have loose ends of yarn dangling from your work.

Don’t simply cut these ends off, since that will make everything more inclined to unravel. Just thread the end of the yarn onto a blunt wide-eyed sewing needle and weave in and out of the back of 3 or 4 nearby stitches, weaving twice in the last stitch. If there’s still a little tail at that point, you can snip it off.

PROJECT

Phone Sweater

Stash your phone in a protective felted sleeve that’s cool to boot. Or make a bigger one for your tablet by simply increasing the number of stitches you cast on and knitting a longer rectangle. (And if you are having too much fun knitting to stop? Nobody but you will know that your long scarf was supposed to have been a little pouch for your phone!)

What You Need

Big Picture

For a tablet about 712 × 912 inches, cast on 23 stitches and knit for 100 rows, or until the long side of your rectangle measures approximately 21 inches.

For a tablet about 512 × 8 inches, cast on 17 stitches and knit for 86 rows, or until your rectangle is approximately 18 inches long.

Tip

Go Figure

Our instructions make a phone sweater that should fit a device that’s about 3 x 512 inches. If you’re willing to experiment some, though, you can create a sleeve for any size phone or tablet (see our suggestions above).

Before you start, know that felting the fabric you knit can be nerve-racking — how small will it get? — and it’s never an exact science. If you’re knitting with thinner yarn or on bigger needles, it will shrink more. If it looks lacier or more open before you wash it, it will likely shrink more as it tightens up. If you’re a perfectionist, you’re going to have to breathe and let go a little bit. (Good practice, right?)

Just remember that ultimately, before felting, you want a knitted rectangle that, when you fold it in half, is about 12 inch wider and about 1 inch longer than your device. In our instructions for a phone sleeve, your knitting before felting will be about 4 inches wide by 13 inches long.

How You Make It

  1. 1. Cast on 12 stitches (see How to Cast On).
  2. 2. Knit rows (see How to Knit Rows) until your rectangle is about 13 inches long (for us this was 62 rows). Then cast off (see How to Cast Off) and weave in the ends with a blunt needle (see How to Weave In Ends).
  3. 3. To felt the fabric, toss it in your washer with a load of laundry that you’re planning to do with a hot wash and cold rinse. Put your phone sweater in a pillowcase first, if you want to make sure it won’t get caught on anything in the wash.

    Lay the wet piece on a flat surface; arrange it into a nice, even rectangle; and let it air-dry. (This can take up to a day. Catherine just throws everything in the dryer, but this is not a recommended practice!)

    When your felted fabric is completely dry, fold it in half with the short ends together. If the sleeve is still a little too big, just toss it back in the wash to tighten it up some more.

  4. 4. Thread your sharp needle (see Thread Your Needle) with embroidery floss or yarn and, starting on the inside of the sleeve to hide the knot, use blanket stitch or whipstitch to sew up one of the long sides of the rectangle. Finish with the thread or yarn inside the sweater, tie off (see Tie Off the Thread), and trim the excess thread.
  5. 5. Repeat step 4 on the other long side of the phone sweater.

Add a Button

If your felted fabric is longer than you need, you can use the extra length to add a button (with or without a shank) for closing up the sleeve. When you fold the fabric before stitching the sides, just make sure you leave one side longer than the other, so that you can fold it down toward the button.

  1. 1. Thread a wide-eyed sharp-tipped needle with several inches of yarn. Starting on what will be the inside of the sleeve (the overhang), bring the needle through the middle of the very top of the fabric and back through the fabric again, right next to where it came out.
  2. 2. Pull the thread so that you leave a 12-inch loop (or however big you need it to fit around your button), then knot the two pieces of yarn together on the inside of the sleeve.
  3. 3. Fold the overhang down, like you’re closing an envelope, and stretch the loop down until it’s taut. Use chalk to mark where the bottom of the loop hits the front of the pouch.
  4. 4. Use strong thread or embroidery floss to sew on the button (see How to Sew On a Button) where you made your chalk mark. Close the pouch by folding over the flap and looping the yarn around the button.