How to

Change Colors

If you want to change colors at any point, it’s easy! We show making the swap at the beginning of a new row, but you can do it whenever you like.

  1. 1. Hold the tails of the old yarn and new yarn together while you start knitting with the working yarn in your new color. After 3 or 4 stitches, the new color should be secure.
  2. 2. Snip the working yarn of the old color, leaving a tail about 6 inches long. You can weave this tail into the knitting at the end of your project (see How to Weave In Ends).

    On one side of the finished fabric, the colors will be cleanly separated; on the other side, there will be two thin lines of alternating color between the two colors. Use whichever side you like best!

What? Variegated Yarn

Variegated yarn is dyed with multiple colors, which results in color changes as you knit. It’s so much fun to work with because your knitting automatically turns into colored stripes, without your doing anything to make it happen!

Also, if you are inclined to grow a little bored while knitting, the color change gives you something to look forward to. True, you’re not, like, getting a horse or something — but maybe your favorite color is coming up, and that will be fun to knit with for a while! We especially love variegated yarn for long, narrow knitting projects — scarves, I-cords, and even the Phone Sweater — since the bands of each color are wider and more dramatic that way.

How to

Knit an I-Cord

I-cord sounds like something you’d download from a tech website, but really it’s just a skinny knitted tube that you can use for all kinds of things: a pair of shoelaces; a weird cozy for your pencil or the handle of a wooden spoon; a headband, bracelet, or belt; a decorative garland or a bow for a present; or a tube top or dress for your doll or stuffed animal!

If you’ve ever used a knitting spool or a Knitting Nancy, you basically made an I-cord — but we’re going to teach you to make one using two double-pointed needles (if you have a pair of short, circular needles, you could use those instead). The weight of the yarn you use will depend on your project: you’ll want to use fine yarn for shoelaces, for example, and bulky yarn for a jump rope.

Tip

Wondering about Width?

The more stitches you cast on (and the heavier your yarn), the bulkier your tube will be. If you’re making something super narrow, like a shoelace, use the minimum number of stitches; if you’re making something a bit wider, like a pair of leg warmers for a doll, cast on more stitches.

  1. 1. Cast on 3 to 5 stitches (see How to Cast On) or more, depending on what you need your I-cord for, and knit 1 row (see How to Knit Rows). The working yarn is now closest to the left end of the needle in your right hand.
  2. 2. Move the needle with the knit stitches to your left hand and slide all the knitting to the right end of the needle. Bring the working yarn around the back of your knitting, from the left over to the right. With the empty needle in your right hand, knit another row as usual.
  3. Note: If you’re using circular needles, when you’re done knitting each row, slide the knitting right over the cable to the other needle tip.
  4. 3. Repeat step 2, sliding your work from one end of the needle to the other after every row, and bringing the working yarn around from behind to knit the first stitch. At first, the tube will look a little open and messy, but it will get nice and tight as you knit.
  5. 4. When the cord is as long as you need it, cast off (see How to Cast Off) and weave in the loose ends (see How to Weave In Ends).
Tip

Which Side Are You On?

When you’re knitting an I-cord, if you stop and need to know where you are, the needle with the knitting on it will be pointing to the right, and the working yarn should always be coming from the far left when you start the next row.

Crafting for Good

If you get super into fiber crafts, you might find yourself producing more hats, scarves, sweaters, blankets, and toys than you can gift to friends. There’s a great solution: give them away. Lots of charitable organizations solicit useful goods from crafters for people in need: blankets for homeless people, stuffed animals for refugees, even superhero capes for kids living in shelters.

Catherine’s daughter sewed baby hats for a hospital in Haiti, and she loved the feeling it gave her — the double-positive boost of making something and giving it away. We are loath to share website information in a book, given how quickly online information becomes outdated, but if you Google crafting for charity, you will find a number of websites looking for generous makers of things. Just be sure the website ends in “.org,” so you know you’re involved with a nonprofit organization.

PROJECT

I-Cord Jump Rope

If you use T-shirt yarn (see Cut a T-shirt into a Continuous Strand), it will make a really nice, heavy jump rope for skipping over. But you don’t need to! Bulky-weight yarn will work, too. Just don’t use leftovers from the baby slippers your mom was knitting: that yarn will be too thin and light, and it will take forever to knit.

What You Need

How You Make It

  1. 1. Cast on 3 stitches (see How to Cast On), then knit an I-cord (see How to Knit an I-Cord) that’s long enough to swing and jump over: hold both ends in your hands and step on the bottom arch; the ends should reach almost to your armpits. If you want to change colors, just tie on a new strand of yarn and weave the ends in (see How to Weave In Ends).

    Our tall friend here needs to keep knitting.

  2. 2. Cast off (see How to Cast Off), then weave in the ends (see How to Weave In Ends) and skip away!

Try This

If you’re not a jumper, consider knotting your rope and slinging it across your shoulders, messenger-bag style, then use clips or carabiners to hang water bottles and a pocket knife (and whatever else you need) on your next hike or outing.

PROJECT

Cord-Slung Backpack

You’ll make this useful pack “in the round,” which means knitting it as a tube on circular needles. Think of all the tubes you could knit once you learn this method! Leg warmers or arm warmers, or a cozy for your neck or water bottle. We’ll also show you how to tweak this backpack to make a really simple hat — with pom-poms! — in the variation that follows.

After knitting the main part of the bag, you’ll knit and felt an I-cord, which does double duty as a button-loop fastener and strap.

What You Need

Tip

Straight Laced

If you only have straight needles, you can still make this project: knit a rectangle by casting on half the number of stitches you would for the tube. Keep knitting until the rectangle is twice as long as we call for in the tube instructions, then fold the rectangle in half and stitch up the sides.

How You Make It

Bag

  1. 1. Cast on 52 stitches (see How to Cast On) or if you’re using yarn that’s not bulky weight, adjust accordingly: for thinner yarn, cast on additional stitches; for thicker yarn, cast on fewer stitches.

    Arrange the cast-on stitches so they are all oriented in the same direction and not twisting around the needles. This will prevent you from making a twisted circle, or Möbius, when you join your stitches. (If, as you knit, you find that you have accidentally created a twist, search the Internet for how to fix a twist circular knitting and watch a video about it. It’s actually not too hard to fix!)

  2. 2. Hold the needles so the working yarn is on the right-hand needle, then insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle (the first stitch you cast on) and knit (see How to Knit Rows) as usual. This creates a continuous circle of stitches.
  3. 3. Knit knit knit knit. Instead of ending straight rows and switching the needles from hand to hand, you will simply knit around and around, continuously, creating a tube. Listen to an audiobook or your favorite podcast. Talk to your friends.

    This is called knitting meditation because once you get into the groove, you don’t really have to think at all. Shake your hand out when it gets crampy, and add another color at some point if you want, but the stitch never changes.

  4. 4. Keep knitting until the backpack seems long enough to hold the things you’ll likely put in it. Ours is about 10 inches long, which was 43 rows.
  5. 5. Cast off (see How to Cast Off), leaving about an arm’s length of yarn attached before you cut your working yarn. Now you have a tube!
  6. 6. Thread the attached yarn from step 5 into the wide-eyed sewing needle. Stitching in place a few times for security at the beginning and end of the row, sew up the end of the tube using a whipstitch.

    Weave the ends into the back of the fabric (see How to Weave In Ends), starting and ending on the inside so the knots won’t show.

Button-Loop Fastener and Strap

  1. 1. Cast on 5 stitches. Knit an I-cord (see How to Knit an I-Cord) that’s about 60 inches long, then cast off (see How to Cast Off). Ideally you’ll use the same weight of yarn as for the bag, but you can use any color.
  2. 2. Felt the I-cord in the washing machine (see Felt the Fabric) putting it in a pillowcase so it doesn’t tangle around everything in the load. Then air-dry it by hanging it over your shower rod.

    We’ve found that an I-cord usually shrinks in length by about a third when you felt it: when we felted a 60-inch I-cord, for example, we ended up with a 40-inch felted strap.

  3. 3. Fold the felted I-cord in half and make a loop big enough to fit around your button; position the button loop at the top of the bag and pin it in place. Thread the smaller-eyed sewing needle with embroidery floss (see Thread Your Needle) and knot the end (see Knot Your Thread).
  4. 4. Starting from the inside of the bag so your knot won’t show, insert the needle through the center of one of the bag’s open edges, then into one side of the I-cord. Sew back through the other side of the I-cord and back into the bag.

    Repeat this process twice more, so you have 3 stitches firmly connecting the I-cord and the bag. Tie the embroidery floss on the inside of the bag (see Tie Off the Thread), and snip off the excess.

  5. 5. Use your fingers to push the end of each strap through both layers of the backpack at the corner so that the cord emerges on the front side of the front layer (where the button will be).
  6. 6. Measure the straps on the person who will be wearing the backpack. You want it to be easy to get the bag on and off without having the straps so long that they easily slip off the shoulders. Knot the cord close to the pack to keep the straps the right length. If you need to make it shorter, snip off the excess I-cord. (It’s felted, so it shouldn’t unravel.)

    Repeat with the other side, making sure it’s the same length as the first strap.

  7. 7. Use embroidery floss to sew the button on at the top center of the front of the pack (see How to Sew On a Button). Knot the floss on the inside of the pack.
Variation

Get a (Different) Handle

To make a simpler shoulder bag, skip adding a button and after step 2, attach the I-cord to the two sides of the bag’s opening. Or, for either type of bag, skip the I-cord and instead use a 40-inch length of nylon or cotton strapping (the strong, ribbon-like material you make belts or straps out of) or nylon climbing rope.

Variation

Tube Hat with Pom-poms

To make a hat instead of a backpack, work the directions from How You Make It: Bag through step 6 — casting off and sewing up when the tube seems like it’s the right length for a hat. (Try it on as you go!) This will be the body of your hat.

Pom-poms

  1. 1. Thread a 10-inch piece of yarn between the center tines of a fork, and hold one end down along the handle of the fork.
  2. 2. Wrap a new piece of yarn around the tines 75 (or so) times to form a bundle, then cut the wrapping yarn.
  3. 3. Bring the two tails of the original 10-inch length up and over the bundle without removing the bundle from the fork, and tie them together very tightly. Trim the ends.
  4. 4. Slide the blade of a pair of scissors into the loops on the back of the fork and carefully snip through all the loops. Fluff up the pom-pom and trim any stray longish ends.
  5. 5. Thread a wide-eyed needle with a new piece of yarn, about 10 inches long, then work the needle through both layers of one corner of the hat. Push the needle up through the pom-pom, knot the ends of the yarn together, and snip off the excess.
  6. 6. Repeat steps 1–5 for the other side of the hat.
For Fun

Prolific Pom-poms

You can use puffy pom-poms in plenty of other ways: decorate your skate laces, adorn a barrette or headband, or fancy up your bookmark or ukulele strap! Embellish pillow corners, wrapped gifts, or your Christmas tree. Or make a garland to decorate your room — just thread a length of yarn onto a needle and push it right through the pom-poms to string them up.

Did You Know?

Yarn Bombing!

Yarn bombing, also known as guerrilla knitting or graffiti knitting, is a kind of street art made by knitters and crocheters who cover unlikely objects and surfaces — telephone poles, tree trunks, benches, and bridges — with their colorful craft. As yarn bombers see it, everything is better with a nice cozy. The art is practiced worldwide, and while it’s technically illegal in some places, all it takes to remove the yarn is a pair of scissors!