Map: Top Destinations in Great Britain
Desserts (Sweets or “Puddings”)
Traveling as a Temporary Local
This book breaks Great Britain into its top big-city, small-town, and rural destinations. It gives you all the information and opinions necessary to wring the maximum value out of your limited time and money in each of these locations. If you plan a month or less for Britain and have a normal appetite for information, this book is all you need. If you’re a travel-info fiend, this book sorts through all the superlatives and provides a handy rack upon which to hang your supplemental information.
Experiencing British culture, people, and natural wonders economically and hassle-free has been my goal for more than three decades of traveling, tour guiding, and travel writing. With this new edition, I pass on to you the lessons I’ve learned, updated for your trip in 2013. (Note that Northern Ireland—which is part of the UK, but not Great Britain—is covered in my book Rick Steves’ Ireland.)
While including the predictable biggies (such as Big Ben, Edinburgh, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Stonehenge), the book also mixes in a healthy dose of Back Door intimacy (windswept Roman lookouts, angelic boys’ choirs, and nearly edible Cotswold villages). This book is selective. For example, while Hadrian’s Wall is more than 70 miles long, I recommend visiting just the best six-mile stretch.
The best is, of course, only my opinion. But after spending half my adult life researching Europe, I’ve developed a sixth sense for what travelers enjoy. The places featured in this book will knock your spots off.
Rick Steves’ Great Britain 2013 is a personal tour guide in your pocket. The book is organized by destination. Each destination is a mini-vacation on its own, filled with exciting sights, strollable neighborhoods, homey and affordable places to stay, and memorable places to eat. In the following chapters, you’ll find these sections:
Use this legend to help you navigate some of the maps in this book.
Planning Your Time suggests a schedule for how to best use your limited time.
Orientation includes specifics on public transportation, helpful hints, local tour options, easy-to-read maps, and tourist information.
Sights describes the top attractions and includes their cost and hours.
Self-Guided Walks take you through interesting neighborhoods, with a personal tour guide in hand.
Sleeping describes my favorite hotels, from good-value deals to cushy splurges.
Eating serves up a range of options, from inexpensive pubs to fancy restaurants.
Connections outlines your options for traveling to destinations by train, bus, and plane, plus route tips for drivers.
The Great Britain: Past and Present chapter is a quick overview of British history and culture.
The appendix is a traveler’s tool kit, with telephone tips, useful phone numbers, transportation basics (on trains, buses, car rentals, driving, and flights), recommended books and films, a festival list, a climate chart, a handy packing checklist, a hotel reservation form, and a fun British-Yankee dictionary.
Browse through this book, choose your favorite destinations, and link them up. Then have a brilliant trip! Traveling like a temporary local, you’ll get the absolute most out of every mile, minute, and dollar. I’m happy that you’ll be visiting places I know and love, and meeting my favorite British people.
This section will help you get started on planning your trip—with advice on trip costs, when to go, and what you should know before you take off.
Your trip to Great Britain is like a complex play—easier to follow and to really appreciate on a second viewing. While no one does the same trip twice to gain that advantage, reading this book in its entirety before your trip accomplishes much the same thing.
Design an itinerary that enables you to visit sights at the best possible times. Note festivals, holidays, specifics on sights, and days when sights are closed. To get between destinations smoothly, read the tips in this book’s appendix on taking trains and buses, and renting a car and driving. A smart trip is a puzzle—a fun, doable, and worthwhile challenge.
Be sure to mix intense and relaxed periods in your itinerary. To maximize rootedness, minimize one-night stands. It’s worth a long drive after dinner to be settled into a town for two nights. Hotels and B&Bs are more likely to give a better price to someone staying more than one night. Every trip (and every traveler) needs at least a few slack days (for picnics, laundry, people-watching, and so on). Pace yourself. Assume you will return.
Reread this book as you travel, and visit local TIs. Upon arrival in a new town, lay the groundwork for a smooth departure; write down (or print out from an online source) the schedule for the train or bus that you’ll take when you depart. Drivers can study the best route to their next destination.
Get online at Internet cafés or at your hotel, and carry a mobile phone or buy a phone card: You can get tourist information, learn the latest on sights (special events, tour schedules, etc.), book tickets and tours, make reservations, reconfirm hotels, research transportation connections, check weather, and keep in touch with your loved ones.
Enjoy the friendliness of the British people. Connect with the culture. Set up your own quest for the best pub, cathedral, or chocolate bar. Slow down and be open to unexpected experiences. You speak the language—use it! Ask questions—most locals are eager to point you in their idea of the right direction. Keep a notepad in your pocket for confirming prices, noting directions, and organizing your thoughts. Wear your money belt, learn the currency, and figure out how to estimate prices in dollars. Those who expect to travel smart, do.
Five components make up your trip costs: airfare, surface transportation, room and board, sightseeing and entertainment, and shopping and miscellany.
Airfare: A basic round-trip US-to-London flight can cost, on average, about $1,000-1,800, depending on where you fly from and when (cheaper in winter). Smaller budget airlines may provide bargain service from several European capitals to many cities in Great Britain. If your trip extends beyond Britain, consider saving time and money by flying into one city and out of another—for instance, into London and out of Amsterdam.
Surface Transportation: For a three-week whirlwind trip of all my recommended British destinations, allow $550 per person for public transportation (train pass, key buses, and Tube fare in London). For a three-week car rental, tolls, gas, and insurance, allow $900 per person (based on two people sharing). Leasing is worth considering for trips of three weeks or more. Car rental and leases are cheapest when arranged from the US. Train passes are normally available only outside of Europe (although you can buy a bus pass in Britain). You may save money by simply buying tickets as you go. For more on public transportation and car rental, see “Transportation” in the appendix.
Room and Board: You can thrive in Britain in 2013 on $115 per day per person for room and board (more in big cities). This allows $15 for lunch, $35 for dinner, and $65 for lodging (based on two people splitting the cost of a $130 double room that includes breakfast). Students and tightwads can enjoy Britain for as little as $60 ($30 for a bed, $30 for meals and snacks).
Sightseeing and Entertainment: Figure about $15-35 per major sight (Stonehenge-$12, Shakespeare’s Birthplace in Stratford-$22, Westminster Abbey-$26, Tower of London-$34, Edinburgh Castle-$25), $7 for minor ones (climbing church towers), and $35-40 for splurge experiences (e.g., bus tours, concerts, discounted tickets for plays). For information on various sightseeing passes, see here.
Fortunately, many of the best sights in London are free, including the British Museum, National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, Tate Britain, Tate Modern, British Library, and the Victoria & Albert Museum (though most request donations). An overall average of $30 a day works in most cities (allow $50 for London). Don’t skimp here. After all, this category is the driving force behind your trip—you came to sightsee, enjoy, and experience Britain.
Shopping and Miscellany: Figure roughly $2 per postcard, $3 for tea or an ice-cream cone, and $5 per pint of beer. Shopping can vary in cost from nearly nothing to a small fortune, but good budget travelers find that this has little to do with assembling a trip full of lifelong and wonderful memories.
Depending on the length of your trip, and taking geographic proximity into account, here are my recommended priorities:
| 3 days: | London |
| 5 days, add: | Bath and the Cotswolds |
| 7 days, add: | York |
| 9 days, add: | Edinburgh |
| 11 days, add: | Stratford, Warwick, Blenheim |
| 14 days, add: | North Wales, Wells/Glastonbury/Avebury |
| 17 days, add: | Lake District, Hadrian’s Wall, Durham |
| 21 days, add: | Scottish Highlands, Liverpool, Ironbridge Gorge |
| 24 days, add: | Choose two of the following—St. Andrews, Glasgow, Cambridge, South Wales, Isle of Skye |
This list includes virtually everything on “Britain’s Best Three-Week Trip by Car” itinerary and map (see here).
Note: Instead of spending the first few days of your trip in busy London, consider a gentler small-town start in Bath (the ideal jet-lag pillow), and let London be the finale of your trip. You’ll be more rested and ready to tackle Britain’s greatest city. Heathrow Airport has direct bus connections to Bath and other cities. (Bristol Airport is also near Bath.)
Your itinerary will depend on your interests. Nature lovers will likely put the lovely Lake District, the Scottish Highlands, and North Wales nearer the top of their list, while engineers are drawn like a magnet to Ironbridge Gorge. Beatlemaniacs make a pilgrimage to Liverpool. Literary fans like Cambridge, Stratford, Bath, and the South Lake District.
In most of Britain, July and August are peak season—my favorite time—with very long days, the best weather, and the busiest schedule of tourist fun. For Scotland, the weather is best in May and June.
Prices and crowds don’t go up during peak times as dramatically in Britain as they do in much of Europe, except for holidays and festivals (see “Holidays and Festivals” in the appendix). Still, travel during “shoulder season” (May, early June, Sept, and early Oct) is easier and can be a bit less expensive. Shoulder-season travelers usually enjoy smaller crowds, decent weather, the full range of sights and tourist fun spots, and the ability to grab a room almost whenever and wherever they like—often at a flexible price. Winter travelers find absolutely no crowds and soft room prices, but shorter sightseeing hours and reliably bad weather. Some attractions are open only on weekends or are closed entirely in the winter (Nov-Feb). The weather can be cold and dreary, and nightfall draws the shades on sightseeing well before dinnertime. While rural charm falls with the leaves, city sightseeing is fine in the winter.
Plan for rain no matter when you go. Just keep traveling and take full advantage of bright spells. The weather can change several times in a day, but rarely is it extreme. As the locals say, “There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” Bring a jacket and dress in layers. Temperatures below 32°F cause headlines, and days that break 80°F—while more frequent in recent years—are still rare in Britain. Weather-wise, July and August are not much better than shoulder months. May and June can be lovely anywhere in Britain. (For more information, see the climate chart in the appendix.) While sunshine may be rare, summer days are very long. The midsummer sun is up from 6:30 until 22:30. It’s not uncommon to have a gray day, eat dinner, and enjoy hours of sunshine afterward.
Your trip is more likely to go smoothly if you plan ahead. Check this list of things to arrange while you’re still at home.
You need a passport—but no visa or shots—to travel in Great Britain. You may be denied entry into certain European countries if your passport is due to expire within three to six months of your ticketed date of return. Get it renewed if you’ll be cutting it close. It can take up to six weeks to get or renew a passport (for more on passports, see www.travel.state.gov). Pack a photocopy of your passport in your luggage in case the original is lost or stolen.
| Day | Plan | Sleep in |
| 1 | Arrive in London, bus to Bath | Bath |
| 2 | Bath | Bath |
| 3 | Pick up car, Avebury, Wells, Glastonbury | Bath |
| 4 | South Wales, St. Fagans, Tintern | Chipping Campden |
| 5 | Explore the Cotswolds, Blenheim | Chipping Campden |
| 6 | Stratford, Warwick, Coventry | Ironbridge Gorge |
| 7 | Ironbridge Gorge, to North Wales | Conwy |
| 8 | Highlights of North Wales | Conwy |
| 9 | Liverpool | Liverpool |
| 10 | South Lake District | Keswick area |
| 11 | North Lake District | Keswick area |
| 12 | Drive up west coast of Scotland | Oban |
| 13 | Highlands, Loch Ness, Scenic Highlands Drive | Edinburgh |
| 14 | Edinburgh | Edinburgh |
| 15 | Edinburgh | Edinburgh |
| 16 | Hadrian’s Wall, Beamish, Durham’s Cathedral and evensong | Durham |
| 17 | North York Moors, York, turn in car | York |
| 18 | York | York |
| 19 | Early train to London | London |
| 20 | London | London |
| 21 | London | London |
| 22 | Whew! |
Book rooms well in advance if you’ll be traveling during peak season and any major holidays (see list on here).
Call your debit- and credit-card companies to let them know the countries you’ll be visiting, to ask about fees, request your PIN (it will be mailed to you), and more. See here for details.
Do your homework if you want to buy travel insurance. Compare the cost of the insurance to the likelihood of your using it and your potential loss if something goes wrong. Also, check whether your existing insurance (health, homeowners, or renters) covers you and your possessions overseas. For more tips, see www.ricksteves.com/insurance.
Consider buying a railpass after researching your options (see here and www.ricksteves.com/rail for all the specifics). If traveling to continental Europe on the Eurostar train, you can order a ticket in advance or buy it in Britain; for details, see here.
If you’re planning on renting a car in Great Britain, arrange it ahead of time.
If you’ll be in London or Stratford and want to see a play, check theater schedules ahead of time. For simplicity, I book plays while in Britain, but if there’s something you just have to see, consider buying tickets before you go (for tips, see here, and for a current schedule of London plays and musicals, visit www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk). Tickets to performances at Stratford’s Royal Shakespeare Theatre are likely to sell out (see www.rsc.org.uk), but if it’s just Shakespeare you’re after—with or without Stratford—you can see his plays in London, too.
To attend the Edinburgh Festival (Aug 9–Sept 1 in 2013), you can book tickets in advance (for details, see here).
If you want to golf at St. Andrews’ famous Old Course, reserve a year ahead, or for other courses, reserve two weeks ahead (see here).
At Stonehenge, anyone can see the stones from behind the rope line (and for most people, this is sufficient), but if you want to go inside the stone circle, you’ll need reservations (see here); book it when you know the date you’ll be there. You can also reserve a tour of the Lennon and McCartney homes in Liverpool (figure on two weeks ahead in peak season, otherwise just a few days; see here).
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
If you’re bringing a mobile device, download any apps you might want to use on the road, such as maps and transit schedules. Check out Rick Steves Audio Europe, featuring hours of travel interviews on Great Britain, audio tours of major sights in London, and more (via www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, Google Play, or the Rick Steves Audio Europe smartphone app; for details, see here).
Check the Rick Steves guidebook updates page for any recent changes to this book (www.ricksteves.com/update).
Because airline carry-on restrictions are always changing, visit the Transportation Security Administration’s website (www.tsa.gov/travelers) for an up-to-date list of what you can bring on the plane with you and what you must check. Some airlines may restrict you to only one carry-on (no extras like a purse or day-pack); check with your airline or at Britain’s transportation website for the latest (www.dft.gov.uk).
Emergency and Medical Help: In Great Britain, dial 999 for police help or a medical emergency. If you get sick, do as the Brits do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your B&B or hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; it’s required if you submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen railpasses or travel gear, and can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up photos and other files frequently.
Time Zones: Britain, which is one hour earlier than most of continental Europe, is five/eight hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, try www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: In Britain, most stores are open Monday through Saturday from roughly 10:00 to 17:00. In London, stores stay open later on Wednesday or Thursday (until 19:00 or 20:00), depending on the neighborhood. Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open; banks and many shops are closed; public transportation options are fewer (e.g., no bus service to or from smaller towns); there’s no rush hour. Rowdy evenings are rare on Sundays.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter plug, but you will need an adapter plug with three square prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US, and in British airports and drugstores. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe. Low-cost hairdryers and other small appliances are sold at Superdrug, Boots, and Argos stores (ask your hotelier for the closest branch).
Discounts: Discounts (called “concessions” or “concs” in Britain) are not listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts for youths (up to age 18), students (with proper identification cards, www.isic.org), families, seniors (loosely defined as retirees or those willing to call themselves a senior), and groups of 10 or more. Always ask. Some discounts are available only for EU citizens.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw pounds for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
For an emergency reserve, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in easy-to-exchange $20 bills. Avoid using currency-exchange booths (lousy rates and/or outrageous fees).
Cash is just as desirable in Britain as it is at home. Small businesses (hotels, restaurants, and shops) prefer that you pay your bills with cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card, and some won’t take credit cards at all. Cash is the best—and sometimes only—way to pay for bus fare, taxis, and local guides.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash. Most ATMs in Britain are located outside a bank. Stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, and Forex, which charge huge commissions and have terrible exchange rates.
To withdraw money from an ATM (which locals call “cashpoints”), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code. Know your PIN code in numbers; there are no letters on European keypads. For security, it’s best to shield the keypad when entering your PIN at an ATM. Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of per-transaction bank fees you’ll pay.
Although you can use a credit card for ATM transactions, it’s generally more expensive (and only makes sense in an emergency), because it’s considered a cash advance rather than a withdrawal.
Pickpockets target tourists. Even in jolly olde England, you’ll need to keep your cash safe. Wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
For purchases, Visa and MasterCard are more commonly accepted than American Express. Just like at home, credit and debit cards are accepted by larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for most purchases. I use my credit card only in a few specific situations: to book hotel reservations by phone, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals, plane tickets, and long hotel stays), and to pay for things near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could use a debit card to make most large purchases, a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection (because debit cards draw funds directly from your account).
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll often be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) plus $5 per transaction. If your fees are too high, consider getting a card just for your trip: Capital One (credit cards only, www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• If you plan to withdraw cash from ATMs, confirm your daily withdrawal limit, and if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. Some travelers prefer a high limit that allows them to take out more cash at each ATM stop, while others prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you encounter Europe’s chip-and-PIN system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip and PIN: If your card is declined for a purchase in Europe, it may be because Europeans are increasingly using chip-and-PIN cards, which are embedded with an electronic chip (rather than the magnetic stripe used on our American-style cards). Much of Europe is adopting this system, and some merchants rely on it exclusively. You’re most likely to encounter chip-and-PIN problems at automated payment machines, such as those at train and subway stations, toll roads, parking garages, luggage lockers, and self-serve gas pumps.
But don’t panic. Most travelers who are carrying only magnetic-stripe cards never encounter any problems. Still, it pays to carry plenty of cash (you can always use an ATM with your magnetic-stripe debit card). It’s a good idea to memorize the PIN number of your magnetic-stripe credit card (if you don’t know it, ask your bank to mail it to you before you leave home). This lets you use it at some chip-and-PIN machines—just enter your PIN when prompted. If a machine won’t take your card, find a cashier who can make your card work (they can print a receipt for you to sign), or find a machine that takes cash. Don’t bother asking your bank for your own chip-and-PIN card just for your trip—it’s not worth the cost or hassle.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using it by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). Diner’s Club has offices in Britain (tel. 0870-1900-011) and the US (tel. 702/797-5532, call collect).
At a minimum, you’ll need to know the name of the financial institution that issued you the card, along with the type of card (classic, platinum, or whatever). Providing the following information will allow for a quicker cancellation of your missing card: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this, don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you promptly report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Britain isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US, but for special service, tips are appreciated, if not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At pubs where you order at the counter, you don’t have to tip. (Regular customers ordering a round sometimes say, “Add one for yourself” as a tip for drinks ordered at the bar—but this isn’t expected.) At a pub or restaurant with waitstaff, check the menu or your bill to see if the service is included; if not, tip about 10 percent. Many restaurants in London now add a 12.5 percent “optional” tip onto the bill—read your bill carefully, and tip only what you think the service warrants.
Taxis: To tip the cabbie, round up. For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is £4.50, give £5; for a £28 fare, give £30). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a pound or two is appropriate, but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask your hotelier or the TI; they’ll fill you in on how it’s done on their turf.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your British souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 20 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than £30 (about $48) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document (either an official VAT customs form, or the shop or refund company’s own version of it). You’ll have to present your passport at the store. Get the paperwork done before you leave the shop to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the EU (e.g., at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Before checking in for your flight, find the local customs office, and be prepared to stand in line. It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on for viewing, but if they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), have your purchases easily accessible in the bag you’re about to check, ready to show the customs agent. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new Wellingtons, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with a service, such as Global Blue (www.global-blue.com) or Premier Tax Free (www.premiertaxfree.com), which have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using a stamped, self-addressed envelope you’ve prepared or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 30 days. You can also bring in duty-free a liter of alcohol. As for food, you can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed. Any liquid-containing foods must be packed in checked luggage, a potential recipe for disaster. To check customs rules and duty rates, visit www.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Britain’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in the bigger cities, see the “At a Glance” sidebars throughout this book. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. On holidays (see list on here), expect reduced hours or closures. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early, at lunch, or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds. For specifics on London at night, see the sidebar on here.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided walks and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Some important sights require you to check daypacks and coats. To avoid checking a small backpack, carry it under your arm like a purse as you enter. From a guard’s point of view, a backpack is generally a problem, while a purse is not.
At ticket desks, you’ll constantly see references to “Gift Aid”—a complicated tax-deduction scheme that benefits both museums (which are often classified as charities) and their patrons who are British taxpayers. Unless you pay taxes in Britain, you can ignore this.
Flash photography is often banned, but taking photos without a flash is usually allowed. Look for signs or ask. Flashes damage oil paintings and distract others in the room. Even without a flash, a handheld camera will take a decent picture (or buy postcards or posters at the museum bookstore).
Museums may have special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect changes—artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. To adapt, pick up any available free floor plans as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer excellent recorded descriptions (about £3.50; sometimes included with admission). If you bring along your own pair of earbuds, you can enjoy better sound and avoid having to hold the device to your ear. To save money, you can bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. I’ve produced free downloadable audio tours of the major sights in London; see here.
Important sights and cathedrals often have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a good place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs are usually free and nearly always clean.
Many sights sell postcards that highlight their attractions. Before you leave a sight, scan the postcards and thumb through the biggest guidebook (or skim its index) to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Most sights stop admitting people 30-60 minutes before closing time, and some rooms may close early (often about 45 minutes before the actual closing time). Guards usher people out, so don’t save the best for last.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Many sights in Britain are managed by English Heritage, the National Trust, or the Welsh organization CADW (the sights don’t overlap). Both the English Heritage and National Trust sell annual memberships that allow free or discounted entry to the sights they supervise; you can join either organization online or at just about any of their sights. English Heritage also sells passes, as does CADW.
Membership in English Heritage includes free entry to more than 400 sights in England and half-price admission to about 100 more sights in Scotland and Wales. For most travelers, the Overseas Visitor Pass is a better choice than the pricier one-year membership (Visitor Pass: £23/9 days, £27/16 days, discounts for couples and families; membership: £47 for one person, £82 for two, discounts for seniors and students, children under 19 free; toll tel. 0870-333-1182, www.english-heritage.org.uk).
Membership in the National Trust is best suited for garden-and-estate enthusiasts, ideally those traveling by car. It covers more than 350 historic houses, manors, and gardens throughout Great Britain. From the US, it’s easy to join online through the Royal Oak Foundation, the National Trust’s American affiliate (one-year membership: $65 for one person, $95 for two, family and student memberships, www.royal-oak.org). Children under age five are always admitted free to National Trust properties (www.nationaltrust.org.uk).
CADW, the Welsh version of the National Trust, sells an Explorer Pass that covers many sights in Wales. If you’re planning to visit at least three castles or other historic places on their list, the pass will probably save you money (3-day pass: £13.20/1 person, £20.30/2 people, £28/family; 7-day pass: £19.85/1 person, £31.60/2 people, £38.75/family; sold at participating sights).
Things to Consider: If you have children over the age of five and you’re all avid sightseers, consider the National Trust family membership—but remember that your kids get in free or cheaply at most sights. Similarly, people over 60 get “concessions” (discounted prices) at many British sights (and can get a senior discount on an English Heritage membership). If you’re traveling by car and can get to the more remote sights, you’re more likely to get your money’s worth out of a pass or membership, especially during peak season (Easter-Oct). If you’re traveling off-season (Nov-Easter) when many of the sights are closed, the deals are a lesser value.
The Bottom Line: These various deals can save a busy sightseer money, but only if you choose carefully. Make a list of the sights you plan to see, check which ones are covered (visit the websites for each pass), and then add up the total if you were to pay individual admissions to the covered sights. Compare the total to the cost of the pass or membership. Keep in mind that an advantage to any of these deals is that you’ll feel free to dip into lesser sights that normally aren’t worth the cost of their admission.
I favor accommodations that are handy to your sightseeing activities. In Britain, small bed-and-breakfast places (B&Bs) generally provide the best value, though I also include some bigger hotels. Rather than list lodgings scattered throughout a city, I describe two or three favorite neighborhoods and recommend the best accommodations values in each, from dorm beds to fancy doubles with all the comforts. Outside of pricey London, you can expect to find good doubles for £50-100 ($80-160), including cooked breakfasts and tax. (For specifics on London, see here.)
A major feature of this book is its extensive listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for British traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Britain, for me, six of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and shoeshine machines.
Book your accommodations well in advance if you’ll be traveling during busy times. Mark these dates in red on your travel calendar: New Year’s Day, Good Friday through Easter Monday, the Bank Holidays that occur on the first and last Mondays in May and on the last Monday in August, Christmas, and December 26 (Boxing Day). See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Britain; for tips on making reservations, see here.
Britain has a rating system for hotels and B&Bs. These diamonds and stars are supposed to imply quality, but I find that they mean only that the place sporting these symbols is paying dues to the tourist board. Rating systems often have little to do with value.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see the sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, usually include a hearty breakfast, and assume you’re booking direct (not through a TI or online hotel-booking engine). Using an online booking service costs the hotel about 20 percent and logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
These days, many hotels change prices from day to day according to demand. Given the economic downturn, hoteliers and B&B operators are often willing and eager to make a deal. I’d suggest emailing several hotels or B&Bs to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to my readers who book direct (without using room-finding services or hotel-booking websites, which take a commission). To get these rates, you must mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast. When establishing prices, confirm if the charge is per person or per room (if a price is too good to be true, it’s probably per person). Because many places in Britain charge per person, small groups often pay the same for a single and a double as they would for a triple. In this book, however, room prices are listed per room, not per person.
Many of my recommended hotels have three floors of rooms and steep stairs; expect good exercise and be happy you packed light. You’ll generally find an elevator (called a “lift” here) only at larger hotels. If you’re concerned about stairs, call and ask about ground-floor rooms or pay for a hotel with a lift. Air-conditioning is rare (I’ve noted which of my listings have it), but most places have fans. On hot summer nights, you’ll want your window open—though in big cities, you may have to put up with street noise.
“Twin” means two single beds, and “double” means one double bed (but in my listings, I list all two-person rooms as “doubles,” regardless of bed type). If you will take either bed configuration, let the hotel know, or you might be needlessly turned away. Most hotels offer family deals, which means that parents with young children can easily get a room with an extra child’s bed or a discount for larger rooms. Call to negotiate the price. Teenage kids are generally charged as adults. Kids under five almost always sleep free.
Understand the terminology: “En suite” (pronounced “on sweet”) means the room has a bathroom (toilet and shower/tub). Hotels sometimes distinguish between a “bathroom”—with an actual bathtub—and a “shower room.” (An en-suite room can have either a tub or shower.) Hotels sometimes call a basic en-suite room a “standard” room to differentiate it from a fancier “superior” or “deluxe” room—if you’re not sure, ask for clarification.
Note that to be called a “hotel,” a place technically must have certain amenities, including a 24-hour reception (though this rule is loosely applied). TVs are standard in rooms, but may come with only the traditional five British channels (no cable). All of Britain’s accommodations are now non-smoking.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You should be able to safely check your bag at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers (and B&B hosts) can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or an Internet café. But even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a pub), ask for a quiet room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. Use them if you’re concerned.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle up your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
Modern Hotel Chains: While most travelers prefer the classic British hotel or B&B experience, chain hotels—which are popping up in bigger cities all over Britain—can be a great value. They offer simple, clean, and modern rooms for up to four people (two adults/two children) for £60-100, depending on the location (more expensive in London). Rooms come with a private shower, WC, and TV. Some hotels are located near the train station, on major highways, or outside the city center. What you lose in charm, you gain in savings.
These hotels are as cozy as a Motel 6, but they are especially worth considering for families, as kids sometimes stay for free. There’s usually an attached restaurant, good security, an elevator, and a 24-hour staffed reception desk. Breakfast is always extra.
Book through the hotel’s website, as it is often the easiest way to make reservations, and will generally net you a discount. Midweek prices are generally higher than weekend rates, and Sunday nights can be shockingly cheap. To find the going rate, punch in your dates on the hotel’s online reservation form. Like airline tickets, pricing changes from day to day or week to week according to demand. The best deals typically require a prepaid, nonrefundable, three-week advance purchase.
The biggest chains are Premier Inn (www.premierinn.com, reservations tel. 0870-242-8000) and Travelodge (www.travelodge.co.uk, reservations tel. 0870-085-0950). Premier Inn has a “Premier Saver” option available on certain dates if booked at least three weeks in advance and prepaid in full (no changes or refunds). Travelodge has a similar prepaid “Saver” rate for 7- to 21-day advance bookings (nonrefundable, but changes possible for a small fee until up to a week ahead).
Other chains with properties in Britain include the Irish Jurys Inn (www.jurysinns.com) and the French-owned Ibis (www.ibishotel.com). Couples can consider Holiday Inn Express, which is spreading throughout Britain. Like a Holiday Inn lite, with cheaper prices and no restaurant, many of these hotels allow only two people per room, although some take up to four (doubles about £60-100, make sure Express is part of the name or you’ll pay more for a regular Holiday Inn, www.hiexpress.co.uk, reservations tel. 0871-423-4896).
Meanwhile, easyHotel is a different animal—an extremely basic, pay-as-you-go bargain chain with several branches in London (see here for details).
For recommendations for online hotel deals in London, as well as using auction-type sites, see here.
Hotels Beyond This Book: If you’re traveling beyond my recommended destinations, you’ll find accommodations where you need them. Any town with tourists has a TI that books rooms or can give you a list and point you in the right direction. In the absence of a TI, ask people on the street or in pubs or restaurants for help. Online, visit www.smoothhound.co.uk, which offers a range of accommodations for towns throughout the UK (searchable by town, airport, hotel name, or price range).
Places with “townhouse” or “house” (such as “London House”) in their name are like big B&Bs or small family-run hotels—with fewer amenities but more character than a hotel. B&Bs range from large guesthouses with 15-20 rooms to small homes renting out a spare bedroom, but they typically have six rooms or fewer. The philosophy of the management determines the character of a place more than its size and facilities offered. I avoid places run as a business by absentee owners. My top listings are run by people who enjoy welcoming the world to their breakfast table.
Compared to hotels, B&Bs give you double the cultural intimacy for half the price. While you may lose some of the conveniences of a hotel—such as fancy lobbies, in-room phones, and frequent bed-sheet changes—I happily make the trade-off for the lower rates and personal touches. If you have a reasonable but limited budget, skip hotels and go the B&B way. Many B&Bs now take credit cards, but may add the card service fee to your bill (about three percent).
You’ll generally pay £30-50 (about $45-80) per person for a double room in a B&B in Britain. Some big, impersonal chain hotels are offering rooms cheaper than the mom-and-pop places—but without breakfast (see “Modern Hotel Chains,” earlier). When considering the price of a B&B or small hotel, remember you’re getting two breakfasts (up to a £25 value) for each double room.
Remember, “en suite” means a room with an attached bathroom. A room with a “private bathroom” can mean that the bathroom is all yours, but it’s across the hall; a “standard” room has access to a bathroom down the hall that’s shared with other guests. Figuring there’s little difference between en suite and private rooms, some places charge the same for both. If you want your own bathroom inside the room, request en suite.
B&Bs are not hotels. Think of your host as a friendly acquaintance who’s invited you to stay in her home, rather than someone you’re paying to wait on you.
B&B proprietors are selective as to whom they invite in for the night. At many B&Bs, children are not welcome. If you’ll be staying for more than one night, you are a “desirable.” In popular weekend-getaway spots, you’re unlikely to find a place to take you for Saturday night only. If my listings are full, ask for guidance. Mentioning this book can help. Owners usually work together and can call up an ally to land you a bed.
Small places usually serve a hearty fried breakfast of eggs and much more (for details on breakfast, see here). Because your B&B owner is also the cook, the time span when breakfast is served is usually limited (typically about an hour—make sure you know when it is before you turn in for the night). It’s an unwritten rule that guests shouldn’t show up at the very end of the breakfast period and expect a full cooked breakfast (try to arrive at least 15 minutes before the ending time). If you do arrive late (or need to leave before breakfast is served), most hosts are happy to let you help yourself to cereal, fruit or juice, and coffee; ask politely if it’s possible.
Most B&Bs stock rooms with an electric kettle, along with cups, tea bags, and coffee packets (if you prefer decaf, buy a jar at a grocery and dump the contents into a baggie for easy packing).
Americans sometimes assume they’ll get new towels each day. The British don’t, and neither should you. Hang towels up to dry and reuse.
Be aware of luggage etiquette. A large bag in a compact older building can easily turn even the most graceful of us into a bull in an English china shop. If you’ve got a backpack, don’t wear it indoors. If your host offers to carry your bag upstairs, accept—they’re adept at maneuvering luggage up tiny staircases without damaging their walls and banisters. Finally, use your room’s luggage racks—putting bags on empty beds can dirty and scuff nice comforters. Treat these lovingly maintained homes as you would a friend’s house.
Electrical outlets sometimes have switches that turn the current on or off; if your electrical appliance isn’t working, flip the switch at the outlet. When you unplug your appliance, don’t forget your adapter—most B&Bs have boxes of various adapters and converters that guests left behind (which is handy if you left yours at the last place).
You’re likely to encounter unusual bathroom fixtures. The “pump toilet” has a flushing handle that doesn’t kick in unless you push it just right: too hard or too soft, and it won’t go. (Be decisive but not ruthless.) There’s also the “dial-a-shower,” an electronic box under the shower head where you’ll turn a dial to select the heat of the water and (sometimes with a separate dial or button) turn on or shut off the flow of water. If you can’t find the switch to turn on the shower, it may be just outside the bathroom.
Many B&Bs and small hotels are in older buildings, with thin walls and doors, and sometimes creaky floorboards. This can make for a noisy night, especially with people walking down the hall to use the bathroom. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs. And please be quiet in the halls and in your rooms (talk softly, and keep the TV volume low). Those of us getting up early will thank you for it.
Your B&B bedroom probably won’t include a phone. In this mobile-phone age, street phone booths can be few and far between. Some B&B owners will allow you to use their phone, but many are disinclined to let you ring up charges. That’s because most British people pay for each local call (whether from a fixed line or a mobile phone), and rates are expensive. Therefore, to be polite, ask to use their phone only in an emergency—and offer to use an international calling card or to pay for the call. If you plan to stay in B&Bs and will be making frequent calls, consider buying a British mobile phone (see here).
With so many people traveling these days with a laptop or other wireless device, nearly every B&B comes equipped with free Wi-Fi (as noted in my accommodations listings); however, the signal frequently won’t reach up many stairs, so you may have to sit in the lounge to access it.
Many B&B owners are also pet owners. And, while pets are rarely allowed into guest rooms, and B&B proprietors are typically very tidy, visitors with pet allergies might be bothered. I’ve tried to list which B&Bs have pets, but if you’re allergic, ask about pets when you reserve.
Remember that you may need to pay cash for your room. Plan ahead so you have enough cash to pay up when you check out.
Britain has hundreds of hostels of all shapes and sizes. Choose your hostel selectively. Hostels can be historic castles or depressing tenements, serene and comfy or overrun by noisy school groups. You’ll pay about £20-25 ($32-40) for a bed. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, Internet access, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); see www.hostelz.com, www.hostelseurope.com, www.hostels.com, and www.hostelbookers.com. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night. For more English and Welsh hostel listings, check www.yha.org.uk; for Scotland, consult www.hostel-scotland.co.uk.
Great Britain’s reputation for miserable food, while once well-deserved, is now dated. While some dreary pub food still exists, creative chefs are trying to push British cuisine forward with some new international influences. You’ll find the cuisine scene here lively, trendy, and pleasantly surprising. (Unfortunately, it’s also expensive.) Even the basic, traditional pub grub has gone upmarket—more and more “gastropubs” are serving locally sourced meats and fresh vegetables rather than microwaved pies, soggy fries, and mushy peas.
All British eateries are now smoke-free. Restaurants and pubs that sell food are non-smoking indoors; establishments keep their smokers contented by allowing them to light up in doorways and on outdoor patios.
When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales.
You have plenty of inexpensive choices: pub grub, daily lunch and early-bird specials, ethnic restaurants, cafeterias, fast food, picnics, fish-and-chips, greasy-spoon cafés, pizza, and more.
I’ve found that portions are huge and, with locals feeling the economic pinch, sharing plates is generally just fine. Ordering two drinks, a soup or side salad, and splitting a £10 meat pie can make a good, filling meal. If you are on a limited budget, share a main course in a more expensive place for a nicer eating experience.
Pub grub is the most atmospheric budget option. You’ll usually get fresh, tasty buffets under ancient timbers, with hearty lunches and dinners priced reasonably at £6-10 (see “Pubs,” later). Gastropubs, with better food, are more expensive.
Classier restaurants have some affordable deals. Lunch is usually cheaper than dinner; a top-end, £25-for-dinner-type restaurant often serves the same quality two-course lunch deals for £10-12. Look for early-bird dinner specials, allowing you to eat well and affordably (generally two courses-£17, three courses-£20), but early (usually last order by 18:30 or 19:00).
Ethnic restaurants from all over the world add spice to Britain’s cuisine scene. Eating Indian, Bangladeshi, Chinese, or Thai is cheap (even cheaper if you do takeout). Middle Eastern stands sell gyro sandwiches, falafel, and shwarmas (lamb in pita bread). An Indian samosa (greasy, flaky meat-and-vegetable pie) costs £2, can be microwaved, and makes a very cheap, if small, meal. (For more, see “Indian Food,” later.) You’ll find all-you-can-eat Chinese and Thai places serving £6 meals and offering £3.50 take-away boxes. While you can’t “split” a buffet, you can split a take-away box. Stuff the box full, and you and your partner can eat in a park for less than £2 each—making this Britain’s cheapest hot meal.
Fish-and-chips are a heavy, greasy, but tasty classic. Every town has at least one “chippy” selling a take-away box of fish-and-chips in a cardboard box or (more traditionally) wrapped in paper for about £3-7. You can dip your fries in ketchup, American-style, or “go British” and drizzle the whole thing with vinegar.
Most large museums (and some historic churches) have handy, moderately priced cafeterias.
Fast food places, both American and British, are everywhere.
Cheap chain restaurants, such as steak houses and pizza places, serve no-nonsense food in family-friendly settings (steak-house meals about £10; all-you-can-stomach pizza about £5). For specific chains to keep an eye out for, see “Chain Restaurants,” later.
Bakeries sell yogurt, cartons of “semi-skimmed” milk, pastries, meat pies, and pasties (PASS-teez). Pasties are heavy, savory meat pies that originated in the Cornish mining country; they had big crust handles so miners with filthy hands could eat them and toss the crust. The most traditional filling is beef stew, but you’ll also find them with chicken, vegetable, lamb and mint, and even Indian flavors inside.
Picnicking saves time and money. You can easily get prepared food to go. Munch a relaxed “meal on wheels” picnic during your open-top bus tour or river cruise to save 30 precious minutes for sightseeing.
Good sandwich shops and corner grocery stores are a hit with local workers eating on the run. Try boxes of orange juice (pure, by the liter), fresh bread, tasty British cheese, meat, a tube of Colman’s English mustard, local eatin’ apples, bananas, small tomatoes, a small tub of yogurt (drinkable), trail mix, nuts, plain or chocolate-covered digestive biscuits, and any local specialties. At open-air markets and supermarkets, you can get produce in small quantities. Supermarkets often have good deli sections, even offering Indian dishes, and sometimes salad bars. Decent packaged sandwiches (£3-4) are sold everywhere (for a few options, see “Carry-Out Chains,” later).
I know—you’re going to Britain to enjoy characteristic little hole-in-the-wall pubs, so mass-produced food is the farthest thing from your mind. But several good chains with branches across the UK can be a nice break from pub grub. I’ve recommended these restaurants throughout this book, but if you see a location that I haven’t listed...go for it.
Wagamama Noodle Bar, serving up pan-Asian cuisine (udon noodles, fried rice, and curry dishes), is stylish, youthful, and popular. There’s one in almost every midsize city in the UK, usually located in sprawling, loud halls filled with long shared tables and busy servers who scrawl your order on the placemat (£8-11 main dishes big enough for light eaters to share, good veggie options).
At Yo! Sushi, freshly prepared sushi dishes trundle past on a conveyor belt. Color-coded plates tell you how much each dish costs (£1.70-5), and a picture-filled menu explains what you’re eating. Just help yourself.
Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK) assembles burgers that are, if not quite gourmet, very good. Choices range from a simple cheeseburger to more elaborate options, such as Jamaican (£7-8 burgers). Choose a table and order at the counter—they’ll bring the food to you. Byron takes things up a notch, adding a pound or two to the price but offering more interesting interiors in exchange.
Loch Fyne Fish Restaurant, a Scottish chain, serves up fish, oysters, and mussels in a lively, upscale-but-unpretentious setting (£10-17 main dishes, early-bird deals).
Ask and Pizza Express serve quality pasta and pizza in a pleasant, sit-down atmosphere that’s family-friendly. Jamie’s Italian (from celebrity chef Jamie Oliver) is hipper and pricier, and feels more upmarket.
While the following places might have some seating, they’re an easy place to grab some prepackaged food on the go.
Major supermarket chains have smaller, offshoot branches that specialize in sandwiches, salads, and other prepared foods “to go.” These can be a picnicker’s dream come true. Some shops are stand-alone, while others are located inside a larger store. The most prevalent—and best—is M&S Simply Food (part of the Marks & Spencer department-store chain; no seating but plasticware is provided). Sainsbury’s Local grocery stores also offer some decent prepared food; Tesco Express and Tesco Metro are a distant third.
Other “cheap and cheery” chains, such as Pret à Manger and Eat, provide office workers with good, healthful sandwiches, salads, and pastries to go.
West Cornwall Pasty Company sells a variety of these traditional savory pies for around £3—as do many smaller, independent bakeries.
The traditional “fry,” or “full English/Scottish/Welsh breakfast”—generally included in the cost of your room—is famous as a hearty way to start the day. Also known as a “heart attack on a plate,” the breakfast is especially feast-like if you’ve just come from the land of the skimpy continental breakfast across the Channel.
The standard fry gets off to a healthy start with juice and cereal or porridge. (Try Weetabix, a soggy cousin of shredded wheat and perhaps the most absorbent material known to humankind.) Next, with tea or coffee, you get a heated plate with a fried egg, Canadian-style bacon or sausage, a grilled tomato, sautéed mushrooms, baked beans, and sometimes hash browns, kippers (herring), or fried bread (sizzled in a greasy skillet). Toast comes in a rack (to cool quickly and crisply) with butter and marmalade. This protein-stuffed meal is great for stamina and tides many travelers over until dinner.
You’ll figure out quickly which parts of the fry you like and don’t like. Your host appreciates knowing this up front, rather than serving you the whole shebang and having to throw out uneaten food. There’s nothing wrong with skipping some or all of the fry—few Brits actually start their day with this heavy breakfast. Many progressive B&B owners offer vegetarian, organic, or other creative variations on the traditional breakfast.
These days, the best coffee is served in a cafetière (also called a “French press”). When your coffee has steeped as long as you like, plunge down the filter and pour.
People of leisure punctuate their day with an “afternoon tea” at a tearoom. You’ll get a pot of tea, small finger foods (like sandwiches with the crusts cut off), homemade scones, jam, and thick clotted cream. A lighter “cream tea” gets you tea and a scone or two. Tearooms, which often serve appealing light meals, are usually open for lunch and close at about 17:00, just before dinner. For more on this most British of traditions, see here.
Pubs are a basic part of the British social scene, and, whether you’re a teetotaler or a beer guzzler, they should be a part of your travel here. “Pub” is short for “public house.” It’s an extended living room where, if you don’t mind the stickiness, you can feel the pulse of Britain.
People go to a public house to be social. They want to talk. Get vocal with a local. This is easiest at the bar, where people assume you’re in the mood to talk (rather than at a table, where you’re allowed a bit of privacy). The pub is the next best thing to having relatives in town. A cup of darts is free for the asking.
Smart travelers use the pubs to eat, drink, get out of the rain, watch sporting events, and make new friends. Unfortunately, many city pubs have been afflicted with an excess of brass, ferns, and video slot machines. The most traditional, atmospheric pubs are in the countryside and in smaller towns.
Pub hours vary. Pubs generally serve beer (and food for shorter hours; see below) Monday to Saturday 11:00-23:00 and Sunday 12:00-22:30, though many are open later, particularly on Friday and Saturday. As it nears closing time, you’ll hear shouts of “Last orders.” Then comes the 10-minute warning bell. Finally, they’ll call “Time!” to pick up your glass, finished or not, when the pub closes.
Pub grub gets better each year. In London, it offers the best indoor eating value. For £6-10, you’ll get a basic budget hot lunch or dinner in friendly surroundings. The Good Pub Guide is excellent (www.thegoodpubguide.co.uk). Pubs that are attached to restaurants, advertise their food, and are crowded with locals are more likely to have fresh food and a chef—and less likely to be the kind of pub that sells only lousy microwaved snacks.
Pubs generally serve traditional dishes, such as fish-and-chips, vegetables, “bangers and mash” (sausages and mashed potatoes), roast beef with Yorkshire pudding (batter-baked in the oven), gammon (ham steak), and assorted meat pies, such as steak-and-kidney pie or shepherd’s pie (stewed lamb topped with mashed potatoes). Side dishes include salads (sometimes even a nice self-serve salad bar), vegetables, and—invariably—“chips” (French fries). “Crisps” are potato chips. A “jacket potato” (baked potato stuffed with fillings of your choice) can almost be a meal in itself. A “ploughman’s lunch” is a traditional British meal of bread, cheese, and sweet pickles that nearly every tourist tries...once. These days, you’ll likely find more Italian pasta, curried dishes, and quiche on the menu than traditional fare.
Meals are usually served from 11:00 or 12:00 until 21:00 or later, although some pubs close the kitchen between lunch and dinner. There’s often no table service. Order at the bar, then take a seat and they’ll bring the food when it’s ready (or sometimes you pick it up at the bar). Pay at the bar (sometimes when you order, sometimes after you eat). Don’t tip unless it’s a place with full table service. Servings are hearty, service is quick, and you’ll rarely spend more than £10 per person. (If you’re on a tight budget, consider sharing a meal—note the size of portions around you before ordering.) A beer or cider adds another couple of pounds. (Free tap water is always available.)
If you want food that’s a notch above, seek out a gastropub. Although similar to a regular pub, a gastropub pays more attention to the quality of its menu—with accordingly higher prices (£10-15 meals). You’ll find a few gastropubs in the towns and cities, but some of the best are in countryside villages.
The British take great pride in their beer. Many Brits think that drinking beer cold and carbonated, as Americans do, ruins the taste. Most pubs will have lagers (cold, refreshing, American-style beer), ales (amber-colored, cellar-temperature beer), bitters (hop-flavored ale, perhaps the most typical British beer), and stouts (dark and somewhat bitter, like Guinness). At pubs, long-handled pulls are used to pull the traditional, rich-flavored “real ales” up from the cellar. These are the connoisseur’s favorites: fermented naturally, varying from sweet to bitter, often with a hoppy or nutty flavor. Notice the fun names. Short-handled pulls at the bar mean colder, fizzier, mass-produced, and less interesting keg beers. Mild beers are sweeter, with a creamy malt flavoring. Irish cream ale is a smooth, sweet experience. Try the draft cider (sweet or dry)...carefully.
Order your beer at the bar and pay as you go, with no need to tip. An average beer costs £3. Part of the experience is standing before a line of “hand pulls,” or taps, and wondering which beer to choose.
As dictated by British law, draft beer and cider are served by the pint (20-ounce imperial size) or the half-pint (9.6 ounces). (It’s considered almost feminine for a man to order just a half; I order mine with quiche.) The government recently sanctioned an in-between serving size—the two-thirds pint—hoping that more choice will woo more beer drinkers (a steady decline in beer consumption, which is taxed, has had a negative effect on tax revenues). Proper British ladies like a shandy (half beer and half 7-Up).
Besides beer, many pubs actually have a good selection of wines by the glass, a fully stocked bar for the gentleman’s “G and T” (gin and tonic), and the increasingly popular bottles of alcohol-plus-sugar (such as Bacardi Breezers) for the younger, working-class set. Pimm’s is a refreshing and fruity summer liqueur, traditionally popular during Wimbledon. It’s an upper-class drink—a rough bloke might insult a pub by claiming it sells more Pimm’s than beer.
Teetotalers can order from a wide variety of soft drinks—both the predictable American sodas and other more interesting bottled drinks, such as ginger beer (similar to ginger ale but with more bite), root beers, or other flavors (Fentimans brews some unusual options that are stocked in many pubs). Note that in Britain, “lemonade” is lemon-lime soda (like 7-Up). Children are served food and soft drinks in pubs, but you must be 18 to order a beer.
Eating Indian food is “going local” in cosmopolitan, multiethnic Britain. You’ll find recommended Indian restaurants in most cities, and even in small towns. Take the opportunity to sample food from Britain’s former colony. Indian cuisine is as varied as the country itself. In general, they use more exotic spices than British or American cuisine—some hot, some sweet. (But if you like your food very hot, you’ll find that Indian restaurants dull the spice for timid British palates—you’ll have to be insistent if you want four-star heat.) Indian food is very vegetarian-friendly, offering many meatless dishes to choose from on any given menu.
For a simple meal that costs about £12-14, order one dish with rice and naan (Indian flatbread that can be served plain, with garlic, or other ways—usually one order is plenty for two people to share). You’ll generally pay £2-3 extra for an order of rice (it’s not included in the price of the main dish, as it often is at Indian restaurants in the US). Many restaurants have a fixed-price combination meal that offers more variety, and is simpler and cheaper than ordering à la carte. For about £20, you can make a mix-and-match platter out of several sharable dishes, including dal (simmered lentils) as a starter; one or two meat or vegetable dishes with sauce (for example, chicken curry, chicken tikka masala in a creamy tomato sauce, grilled fish tandoori, chickpea chana masala, or a spicy vindaloo dish); raita (a cooling yogurt that’s added to spicy dishes); rice; naan; and an Indian beer (wine and Indian food don’t really mix) or chai (a cardamom- and cinnamon-spiced tea, usually served with milk). An easy way to taste a variety of dishes (especially for a single diner) is to order a thali—a sort of sampler plate, generally served on a metal tray, with small servings of various specialties.
To the British, the traditional word for dessert is “pudding,” although it’s also referred to as “sweets” these days. Sponge cake, cream, fruitcake, and meringue are key players.
Trifle is the best-known British concoction, consisting of sponge cake soaked in brandy or sherry (or orange juice for children), then covered with jam and/or fruit and custard cream. Whipped cream can sometimes put the final touch on this “light” treat.
Castle puddings are sponge puddings cooked in small molds and topped with Golden Syrup (a popular brand and a cross between honey and maple syrup). Bread-and-butter pudding consists of slices of French bread baked with milk, cream, eggs, and raisins (similar to the American preparation), served warm with cold cream. Hasty pudding, supposedly the invention of people in a hurry to avoid the bailiff, is made from stale bread with dried fruit and milk. Queen of puddings is a breadcrumb pudding topped with warm jam, meringue, and cream. Treacle pudding is a popular steamed pudding whose “sponge” mixture combines flour, suet (animal fat), butter, sugar, and milk. Christmas pudding (also called plum pudding) is a dense mixture with dried and candied fruit served with brandy butter or hard sauce. Sticky toffee pudding is a moist cake made with dates, heated and drizzled with toffee sauce, and served with ice cream or cream. Banoffee pie is the delicious British answer to banana cream pie.
The British version of custard is a smooth, yellow liquid. Cream tops most everything custard does not. There’s single cream for coffee. Double cream is really thick. Whipped cream is familiar, and clotted cream is the consistency of whipped butter.
Fool is a dessert with sweetened pureed fruit (such as rhubarb, gooseberries, or black currants) mixed with cream or custard and chilled. Elderflower is a popular flavoring for sorbet.
Scones are tops, and many inns and restaurants have their secret recipes. Whether made with fruit or topped with clotted cream, scones take the cake.
We travel all the way to Britain to enjoy differences—to become temporary locals. You’ll experience frustrations. Certain truths that we find “God-given” or “self-evident,” such as cold beer, ice in drinks, bottomless cups of coffee, hot showers, and bigger being better, are suddenly not so true. One of the benefits of travel is the eye-opening realization that there are logical, civil, and even better alternatives. A willingness to go local ensures that you’ll enjoy a full dose of British hospitality.
Europeans generally like Americans. But if there is a negative aspect to the British image of us, it’s that we are loud, wasteful, ethnocentric, too informal (which can seem disrespectful), and a bit naive.
The British (and Europeans in general) place a high value on speaking quietly in restaurants and on trains. Listen while on the bus or in a restaurant—the place can be packed, but the decibel level is low. Try to adjust your volume accordingly to show respect for their culture.
While the British look bemusedly at some of our Yankee excesses—and worriedly at others—they nearly always afford us individual travelers all the warmth we deserve.
Judging from all the happy feedback I receive from travelers who have used this book, it’s safe to assume you’ll enjoy a great, affordable vacation—with the finesse of an independent, experienced traveler.
Thanks, and have a brilliant holiday!
From Rick Steves’ Europe Through the Back Door
Travel is intensified living—maximum thrills per minute and one of the last great sources of legal adventure. Travel is freedom. It’s recess, and we need it.
Experiencing the real Europe requires catching it by surprise, going casual...“Through the Back Door.”
Affording travel is a matter of priorities. (Make do with the old car.) You can eat and sleep—simply, safely, and enjoyably—anywhere in Europe for $120 a day plus transportation costs. In many ways, spending more money only builds a thicker wall between you and what you traveled so far to see. Europe is a cultural carnival, and time after time, you’ll find that its best acts are free and the best seats are the cheap ones.
A tight budget forces you to travel close to the ground, meeting and communicating with the people. Never sacrifice sleep, nutrition, safety, or cleanliness to save money. Simply enjoy the local-style alternatives to expensive hotels and restaurants.
Connecting with people carbonates your experience. Extroverts have more fun. If your trip is low on magic moments, kick yourself and make things happen. If you don’t enjoy a place, maybe you don’t know enough about it. Seek the truth. Recognize tourist traps. Give a culture the benefit of your open mind. See things as different, but not better or worse. Any culture has plenty to share.
Of course, travel, like the world, is a series of hills and valleys. Be fanatically positive and militantly optimistic. If something’s not to your liking, change your liking.
Travel can make you a happier American, as well as a citizen of the world. Our Earth is home to seven billion equally precious people. It’s humbling to travel and find that other people don’t have the “American Dream”—they have their own dreams. Europeans like us, but with all due respect, they wouldn’t trade passports.
Thoughtful travel engages us with the world. In tough economic times, it reminds us what is truly important. By broadening perspectives, travel teaches new ways to measure quality of life.
Globetrotting destroys ethnocentricity, helping us understand and appreciate other cultures. Rather than fear the diversity on this planet, celebrate it. Among your most prized souvenirs will be the strands of different cultures you choose to knit into your own character. The world is a cultural yarn shop, and Back Door travelers are weaving the ultimate tapestry. Join in!