Frommer’s Athens and the Greek Islands, 2nd Edition

Traveling in Greece is ever so enjoyable, but even the most ardent Hellenophile will admit that the experience can be unpredictable at times. Weather, strikes, inconvenient schedules—the best-laid plans can easily go astray. But with some advance planning, good luck, and a willingness to be flexible, you can see what you set out to visit in Greece, with unanticipated delights most likely part of the package, too. So, that said, here are some ideal ways to see the best of Athens and the islands. These routes rely on buses, cars, ships, and planes, and they are geared to summer travel, when it’s much easier to move from island to island than it is off season. And now, as you set off for Greece, Kalo taxidi! (Have a good trip!)

One week? That’s almost a sacrilege in this country where siga, siga (slowly, slowly) is a well-meaning mantra to enjoy life at a reasonable pace. So, even though you have only a week to explore one of the richest, most intriguing places on earth, do slow down a bit when you can and appreciate everything that’s unfolding around you.

Day 1: Athens & the Acropolis

Arrive in Athens and get settled in your hotel. Yes, even though there’s so much to see, you deserve a nap, maybe a refreshing swim if you’re fortunate enough to be staying in a hotel with a pool. Relax a bit—you have time. Summer hours keep most monuments and museum open late, plus sights in the sprawling capital are fairly concentrated and you needn’t venture much beyond the Acropolis (p. 78) this first day. This ancient marvel is probably within walking distance of your hotel, maybe even within sight of it. The ascent through the Beule Gate and up a well-worn path is stirring, and what lies beyond is even more so: The ruins of the perfectly proportioned Parthenon and surrounding temples, summoning up the glory of classical Greece. Continue the spell with a walk through the Acropolis Museum (p. 80), where the sculptures and statuary that once adorned the Acropolis temples are on display, including a section of the magnificent Parthenon Frieze. Then stroll along the Grand Promenade (p. 82), a cobblestone-and-marble, pedestrian-only boulevard that skirts the Acropolis Hill. You’ll get a glimpse of the Theater of Dionysus (p. 84), where the newest dramas of Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides once delighted audiences. Plunge back into the present day, by following Adrianou (Hadrian) Street through the colorful Plaka neighborhood (p. 87). End your day by strolling around the evocative ruins of the Ancient Agora (p. 88), once the business and political hub of ancient Athens. Then it’s time for dinner, maybe beneath a shady plane tree at a long-time favorite, the Platanos Taverna (p. 74).

Day 2: Athens & Santorini

No need to rush out of the hotel at the crack of dawn. You can probably get a mid- to late-afternoon boat to Santorini, your next stop, leaving time for a mid-morning visit to Athens’ National Archaeological Museum (p. 94), with the world’s finest collection of Greek antiquities. (Depending on where you’re staying, you may want to walk at least part of the way there, best up Athinas Street for a stop at the lively, colorful Central Market; see p. 93.) Essential galleries are the Mycenaean Collection, with gold death masks and many other magnificent treasures of the civilization whose king, Agamemnon, launched the Trojan War; the Cycladic Collection’s enigmatic marble figures; and the colorful and charming frescoes of the Thira Collection—from Santorini, where you’re heading next.

Now it’s time to take the Metro to Piraeus and board the Santorini-bound boat. You could also fly to Santorini, but boat is by far the best way to get to a Greek island. There’s nothing like appreciating the passing view while you talk or read a book. Although it takes longer to travel this way than by plane (the trip to Santorini is about 5 hours by fast ferry, as long as 9 hours by slow boat) it beats sitting in coach any day. You’ll want to be on deck as the boat sails into Santorini’s caldera, one of the great Greek experiences. Cliffs rise glimmering even in the moonlight, while the lights of the white villages atop the rim twinkle high above you. In fact, some of the best hotels on Santorini are perched on the side of the cliffs—two of our favorites, ensured to make a stay on the island a special occasion, are Esperas in Ia (p. 184) and Astra Suites in Imerovigli (p. 183).

Day 3: Santorini

You probably won’t want to venture too far away from the caldera (p. 183) in the morning. If you aren’t lucky enough to be spending the morning on your private terrace overlooking the spectacle, walk at least a portion of the 10km (6-mile) path that follows the top of the cliff from Fira (p. 190) to Ia (p. 192), affording a bird’s-eye view of the outrageously blue waters and clusters of white houses perched on top of the cliffs like a dusting of snow. From stops along the caldera you can catch the bus to the southern end of the island and Ancient Akrotiri (p. 189), Greece’s version of Pompeii—a prosperous Minoan-era town that was buried in a volcanic eruption around 1500 b.c., leaving its houses and warehouses remarkably well-preserved. Adjoining the site is Paralia Kokkini (Red Beach), carpeted in red volcanic pebbles and perfect for an afternoon swim and nap. Come evening, take the bus back up the island to Ia, where watching the sunset is a celebratory event accompanied with a glass of wine. Then head down to Ammoudi, the little fishing port below Ia, for a seafood dinner at Katina’s (p. 188) or another waterside taverna.

Athens & the Islands in 1 Week

Day 4: Iraklion

High-speed ferries make the crossing from Santorini to Crete in under 2 hours. But as you’ll discover in Greece, schedules don’t always cooperate with your plans. So if there’s not a morning boat, fly to Iraklion. (You should have a choice of several morning flights in high season.) Your first stop on the island is the palace of Knossos (p. 247), the dramatic ruins that about 3 millennia ago made up the center of Minoan culture. Then it’s on to the center of town and late lunch at the Pantheon (p. 246) in the market (actually, it’s in an arcade known as Dirty Alley, but don’t let that put you off the excellent food). Spend the rest of the afternoon in Iraklion’s Archaeological Museum (p. 245) for a look at beautiful frescoes portraying Minoan life and other exuberant artifacts of this sophisticated culture. As a cooling breeze picks up in the evening, it’s time to get back into the swing of modern life, but gently so, by joining Irakliots for a stroll around the old city. A mandatory stop at some point in your ramblings is one of the cafes at Ta Liontaria (The Lions) square (p. 248), overlooking the fountain adorned with four leonine symbols of the Venetian Republic.

Day 5: The Lasithi Plateau & Elounda

Since you have only two more days on this large, diverse, and fascinating island, rent a car to see as much of the beautiful landscapes as you can. That said, don’t overdo it—Crete’s pleasures are meant to be savored. On Day 5 make the short but scenic drive up to the Lasithi Plateau (p. 251), a glorious slice of rural Crete where a tidy patchwork of orchards and fields spreads out to the encircling hills. Enjoy a long lunch up here at the Kronio restaurant (p. 252), then drop back down to the coast for a late afternoon swim in the crystalline waters off the Elounda peninsula (p. 272).

Day 6: Crete’s South Coast & Rethymnon

Begin Day 6 by heading south from Iraklion to the coast around Matala (p. 250), a little over an hour away. This pleasant beach resort is famous for its cliffs riddled with caves that have housed everyone from Roman soldiers to 1960s hippies. The real draw here are the beaches—the best are Kommos, a long stretch of sand just north of Matala, and isolated Red Beach, reached by a 20-minute hike over a headland on the south side of town. By early afternoon, be on the road again for the hour drive back north to Rethymnon (p. 253), an inviting and exotic maze of Venetian and Turkish houses and mosques, crowded onto a sea-girt peninsula with and a massive seaside fortress. Treat yourself to an early meal in the romantic garden of Avli (p. 255), famous for its innovative preparations of Cretan cuisine. Allow time to get back to Iraklion (an hour’s drive east) for the 9pm sailing to Piraeus. Treat yourself to a cabin or berth so you can sleep through the overnight crossing.

Day 7: Delphi

You’ll arrive in Athens early, all too early, about 6 or 7am. But you should be well rested, and you have an entire day ahead of you—and still so much to see. A day trip to Delphi (p. 130) shows off the Temple of Apollo, Greece’s most mysterious and alluring ancient site, a memorable place to spend your last day in Greece. Even the bus trip is a thrill, through glorious mountain scenery with vistas off to the Gulf of Corinth. CHAT tours (p. 350) is one of several companies running day trips that leave Athens around 8:30am or so and have you back in the city by 7pm, time for one last dinner and glimpse of the floodlit Acropolis.

Athens & the Islands in 2 Weeks

Two weeks allows time to take in the must-see ancient monuments in Athens and also get a good taste of island life. Though touring the islands can be require a bit of work and some logistics, we’ve tried to minimize the wear and tear.

Day 1: Athens

Start your first day in Greece with the landmark you can’t go home without seeing: The Acropolis (p. 78). The ascent through the Beule Gate and up a well-worn path is stirring, and what lies beyond is even more so: The ruins of the perfectly proportioned Parthenon and surrounding temples, summoning up the glory of classical Greece. Continue the spell with a walk through the Acropolis Museum (p. 80), where the sculptures and statuary that once adorned the Acropolis temples are on display, including a section of the magnificent Parthenon Frieze. Then stroll along the Grand Promenade (p. 82), a cobblestone-and-marble, pedestrian-only boulevard that skirts the Acropolis Hill. You’ll pass the Theater of Dionysus (p. 84), where the newest dramas of Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides once delighted audiences. Following Adrianou (Hadrian) Street through the colorful Plaka neighborhood (p. 87), then end your sightseeing by strolling around the evocative ruins of the Ancient Agora (p. 88), once the business and political hub of ancient Athens. After that, it’s time for dinner, maybe beneath a shady plane tree at a long-time favorite, the Platanos Taverna (p. 74).

Day 2: Athens

Begin the day with a visit to Athens’ National Archaeological Museum (p. 94), with the world’s finest collection of Greek antiquities. (Depending on where you’re staying, you may want to walk at least part of the way there, best up Athinas Street for a stop at the lively, colorful Central Market; see p. 93.) Essential galleries are the Mycenaean Collection, with gold death masks and many other magnificent treasures of the civilization whose king, Agamemnon, launched the Trojan War; the Cycladic Collection’s enigmatic marble figures; and the Thira Collection’s colorful and charming frescoes from Santorini. Find a spot for lunch in the atmospheric neighborhoods of Plaka (p. 87) or Monastiraki (p. 87). Then make your way along Aiolou Street for a look at the Roman Forum (p. 90) and the adjacent Tower of the Winds (p. 90), probably the city’s most unusual landmark from the ancient world. Turn off Aiolou into Pandrossou, a pedestrian alley that was the Turkish bazaar during Athens’ 400 years of Ottoman rule; the narrow lane lined with stalls is still souk-like. Continue west through the Plaka to Syntagma Square, stopping for a coffee and pastry at Oraia Ellada (entrances on both 36 Pandrossou and 59 Mitropoleos). Relax for a spell and soak in the spectacular view of the Acropolis. A walk across Syntagma Square (p. 85) puts you figuratively and literally in the center of Athens, with the formidable Parliament Building (p. 86) rising to one side. Follow tree-lined Vasillis Sofias, the city’s Museum Row, east to the Museum of Cycladic Art (p. 97) for a look at the elegantly simple and symmetrical marble figures created more than 3,000 years ago. Walk north through Kolonaki—a neighborhood favored by well-heeled Athenians—to the funicular that climbs Lycabettus Hill (p. 96). From the breezy summit, there are mesmerizing views of the Acropolis and across the city to the sea. The spectacle is a good send-off, as it’s now time to collect your bags at your hotel, take the Metro to Piraeus, and board the Crete-bound ferry. Boats to the island, equipped with cabins and berths for a good night’s sleep, sail from Piraeus at about 9pm.

Day 3: Crete

You’ll dock in Iraklion early in the morning—too early to do much but enjoy a coffee. So, after stashing your bags at your hotel (you probably won’t be able to check in yet) join the other early risers at Kir-Kor, a venerable old pastry shop overlooking the fountains in Ta Liontaria (The Lions) square (p. 248). The treat here is bougasta, a flaky, light-as-a-feather cheese-filled pastry. Since you have a whole day to work off the calories, also try the gloriously thick Cretan yoghurt with a generous drizzle of island honey. Next, head for the palace of Knossos (p. 247), the dramatic ruins that about 3 millennia ago made up the center of Minoan culture. Then it’s on to the center of town and late lunch at the Pantheon in the market (p. 246) (actually, it’s in an arcade known as Dirty Alley, but don’t let that put you off the excellent food). Spend the rest of the afternoon in Iraklion’s Archaeological Museum (p. 245) for a look at beautiful frescoes portraying Minoan life and other exuberant artifacts of this sophisticated culture. As a cooling breeze picks up in the evening, it’s time to get back into the swing of modern life, but gently so, by joining Irakliots for a stroll around the old city.

Athens & the Islands in 2 Weeks

Day 4: The South Coast of Crete & Rethymnon

On Day 4, you’ll head west to Rethymnon, but rather than taking the speedy National Road along the north coast of the island, go off the beaten path and head south across the mountains to the Messara Plain, some of the most fertile agricultural land in Greece. Set your sights on one of two beaches near the resort town of Matala—Red Beach, reached by a 20-minute hike south over a headland from Matala, and Kommos, a long stretch of sand just north of town. After a swim, head north and west again, with a leisurely amble through the scenic Amari Valley (p. 257), a panorama of vineyard- and orchard-covered mountain slopes beneath the snow-capped peak of Mount Ida. On a high plateau just to the north of the valley, the ornate Arkadi Monastery (p. 258) is a patriotic landmark for Greece, the scene of a bloody fight against the Turks in the 1860s. Then make the half-hour drive down to the coast and Rethymnon (p. 253), an inviting place to dine and spend the night amid an exotic maze of Venetian and Turkish houses, mosques, and a massive seaside fortress.

Day 5: Chania

It’s a short drive west from Rethymnon to Chania, only 72km (45 miles), but there’s no hurry—you’ve got time to make a detour onto the Akrotiri Peninsula, jutting into the Cretan Sea just east of Chania. The lands at the northern tip of the peninsula are the holdings of three adjacent monasteries. The most remarkable is the 11th-century Monastery of Katholiko (p. 267), where St. John the Hermit and his followers lived in caves. A steep path leads past the hermitages and ends at the sea, where you can end your pilgrimage with a swim in a paradisiacal little cove. Then it’s on to Chania (p. 259), one of the most beautiful cities in Greece. Settle in for 2 nights—we recommend Doma (p. 262), an outpost of traditional Cretan hospitality, and the Porto Veneziano (p. 262), so close to the water that you’ll feel like you’re on a ship. Then find a spot on the western side of the harbor, maybe the terrace of the Firkas, the waterside fortress the Venetians built—and take in the view of shimmering sea and waterside palaces. A good place for dinner is the Well of the Turk (p. 263), tucked away beneath an exotic minaret.

Day 6: Samaria Gorge

The longest gorge in Europe, the Samaria Gorge (p. 270) is one of the most traveled places in Crete, but crowds of eager hikers don’t detract from the spectacle of its narrow passageways and sheer steep walls. Copses of pine and cedar and a profusion of springtime wildflowers carpet the canyon floor, where a river courses through a rocky bed. The hike ends with a well-deserved swim in the Libyan Sea. The easiest way to visit the gorge is on an organized tour. Chania’s Diktynna Travel is notable for its small groups and knowledgeable and personable guides. Trips leave Chania early, around 8am, and return at 6 or 7pm.

Day 7: Moni Preveli & Iraklion

You’ll be heading east again today, to Iraklion to spend the night before boarding a morning boat to Santorini. Take the day slow and easy. First stop along the north coast is the pretty town of Vrisses (p. 288), which rests its fame on thick, creamy yogurt, topped with local honey and savored at a well-shaded cafe table alongside a rushing stream. Just outside of the town in the village of Alikambos, the Church of the Panagia (p. 268) houses some of the finest fresco cycles in Crete. Continue on the north coast highway, then detour south through the mountains to the isolated monastery of Moni Preveli (p. 259), a beautiful place with a bloody past: its monks led rebellions against the Turks in the 1820s and during World War II hid Allied soldiers from the Germans. Palm Beach, reached by a steep path from the monastery grounds, is one of the loveliest stretches of sand on Crete. You’ll be in Iraklion in time for an evening walk along the ramparts of the Koules (p. 246), the mighty, wave-lapped fortress built by 16th-century Venetians.

Day 8: Santorini

Take an early boat to Santorini (p. 180). You’ll probably be leaving around 9am and traveling by a high-speed hydrofoil. Though the airplane-like cabin is enclosed, try to wedge your way onto deck as the boat sails into the deep harbor with its high lava-streaked cliffs, created by a volcanic eruption around 1500 b.c. Sailing into Santorini is one of the world’s great travel experiences. Once you’ve checked into your hotel (or, if it’s too early to do, at least leave your bags there), walk a portion of the 10km (6-mile) path that follows the top of the cliff from Fira (p. 190) to Ia (p. 192), affording a bird’s-eye view of the outrageously blue waters and clusters of white houses perched on top of the cliffs like a dusting of snow. From stops along the caldera you can catch the bus to the southern end of the island and Ancient Akrotiri (p. 189), Greece’s version of Pompeii—a well-preserved Minoan-era town that was buried in that same 1500 b.c. eruption that shaped modern Santorini. Adjoining the site is Paralia Kokkini (Red Beach), carpeted in red volcanic pebbles and perfect for an afternoon swim and nap. Come evening, take the bus back up the island to Ia, where watching the sunset is a celebratory event accompanied with a glass of wine. Then head down to Ammoudi, the little fishing port below Ia, for a seafood dinner at Katina’s (p. 188) or another waterside taverna.

Day 9: Naxos

A morning or early afternoon departure will give you the nice part of a day on Naxos (p. 158), the largest, greenest, and most scenic island in the Cyclades. (The boat trip from Mykonos takes about 11⁄2 hr.) For a close-to-perfect island retreat, settle into Villa Marandi (p. 160), set in seaside gardens a couple of miles outside Naxos Town. Studios Kalergis (p. 160) is another nice choice, with attractive units hanging over Agios Yeoryios (St. George) beach at the edge of Naxos Town. Spend some hours relaxing before setting out for an evening walk out to the Portara, an unfinished ancient doorway above the harbor. Then follow the steep lanes into the hilltop Kastro, the Venetian fortress and the neighborhood of tall houses that surround the walls. It’s an atmospheric setting for a meal at Lithos or Taverna to Kastro (p. 161 and 162).

Day 10: The Tragaea Valley & Naxian Beaches

Rent a car for a day to explore Naxos, with its appealing mountain valleys and long stretches of sand. In the garden of an estate in Melanes (p. 164) outside Naxos Town, you’ll find a 6th-century b.c. kouros, a huge marble statue of a beautiful youth. Villages on the lower slopes of Mount Zas, the highest mountain in the Cyclades, preserve the rhythms of agrarian life. Apiranthos (p. 166), with its marble streets, is especially pretty, and Taverna Lefteris (p. 162) is a good stop for lunch. To the south, near Sangri, some columns and walls of a Temple of Demeter (p. 165), goddess of grain, still stand amid fertile fields. Just to the east is a string of the sandy beaches that bring many northern Europeans to Naxos. Skirt the sands on small roads to find the most appealing spot; your best chance for finding a cove to yourself is at Pyrgaki, the southernmost beach on this stretch of coast but only 21km (13 miles) from Naxos Town.

Day 11: Mykonos

You’re island hopping in earnest now. In season you have a good choice of morning boats from Naxos to Mykonos (p. 143), where you’ll arrive just after noon. Check into your hotel—our top choices would be in or just outside Mykonos Town (p. 150), because this old Cycladic port is so beautiful and so convenient to the rest of the island. For hedonistic and stylish luxury, it’s hard to beat Cavo Tagoo (p. 146), while the in-town Carbonaki (p. 148) gets high marks for good-value comfort and lots of charm. Now it’s time to hit the beach (aside from partying, this is the island’s favorite pastime). To see the most of the island in your short time here, rent a car—you’ll only need it for 24 hours. Paradise and Super Paradise are the island’s legendary beaches, but the north coast’s Agios Sostis (p. 155) is much less crowded and just as beautiful, with warm, crystal-clear water washing the soft sands. You can get a late lunch at Kiki’s (p. 149), a simple beachside taverna. In the evening, succumb to the Cycladic charms of Mykonos Town (better known as Hora), with its wooden balconies hanging from white cubical houses and outdoor staircases lined with pots of geraniums. A drink on a seaside terrace in Little Venice (p. 152) shows off the island’s worldly appeal.

Day 12: Delos

Begin the day with another swim at one or two of the Mykonos beaches that help put this all-too-popular island on the map (see p. 152 for beaches on Mykonos). You might want to drop by Paradise and Super Paradise just to see the scene, but for some quieter beach time drive out to Kalo Livadi (Good Pasture), a beautiful stretch of sand at the end of a farming valley, or Panormos, a dune-backed crescent edging a bay on the north coast. Wherever you choose to go, be back in Mykonos Town by early afternoon to return the car and catch a boat for the short crossing to nearby Delos (p. 156). In ancient times this little outcropping was the most famous island in Greece—birthplace of Apollo, a sacred religious sanctuary, a flourishing trade center, and headquarters of the Delian League, the confederation of Greek city-states. As you step ashore and see such famed antiquities as the Terrace of the Lions, it soon becomes clear what all the fuss was about. The last boat heads back to Mykonos about 4pm, so plan your trip to allow 2 hours or so on the island—and remember to bring sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat.

Days 13 & 14: Hydra

A morning boat from Mykonos will have you back in Athens by midafternoon. But don’t pack your island togs away just yet. For one last fling, turn right around at Piraeus and board a hydrofoil for the idyllic Saronic Gulf island of Hydra (p. 140), about 2 hours away. You’ll arrive in plenty of time to check into your hotel and then have dinner near the harbor, maybe at To Steki (p. 138). The next morning, you’ll have one more carefree island day to hike, swim, and roam through Hydra Town. A trip by water taxi to the beach at Ayios Nikolaos nicely shows off the rugged shoreline. Boats to Piraeus run frequently, from around 7am to 8pm, so you can time your return to Athens in the evening of Day 14 or morning of Day 15 accordingly.

Athens & the Islands for Families

Yes, we know what kids want—a swimming pool! But you’ve come all the way to Greece, so here we show off the best of Athens and the islands while trying to balance the needs of young travelers, too.

Day 1: Athens

Need to work off some fidgets after a long plane ride? Start your first day in Greece with the landmark you can’t go home without seeing: The Acropolis (p. 78). True, there’s a lot of climbing as you ascend through the Beule Gate up a well-worn path, but what lies at the top makes the hike all worthwhile: The ruins of the perfectly proportioned Parthenon and surrounding temples. Find a spot to sit and just gaze at those massive columns, summoning up the glory of classical Greece. Then help the kids put it all together with a visit to the Acropolis Museum (p. 80), at the base of the hill, where the original sculptures and statuary from the site are on display. If their legs are up to it, you can then stroll along the Grand Promenade (p. 82), a cobblestone-and-marble, pedestrian-only boulevard that skirts the Acropolis Hill, and end your sightseeing by strolling around the evocative ruins of the Ancient Agora (p. 88), where Socrates once conducted open-air seminars and St. Paul sought converts for the new religion of Christianity. After that, it’s time for dinner, maybe beneath a shady plane tree at a long-time favorite, the Platanos Taverna (p. 74).

Day 2: Athens

Begin the day with a visit to Athens’ National Archaeological Museum (p. 94), with the world’s finest collection of Greek antiquities. Youngsters will be intrigued by the gold death masks in the Mycenaean Collection, with its Trojan War connections; the Thira Collection’s colorful and charming frescoes from Santorini are as fascinating as an ancient comic strip. Then walk south down through Omonia Square to the lively, colorful Central Market (p. 93). The sheeps’ heads and live chickens may gross them out, but there’s also tasty picnic fare to be picked up. Make your way down Aiolou Street for a look at the Roman Forum (p. 90) and the adjacent Tower of the Winds (p. 90), then swing west through the Plaka to Syntagma Square (p. 85). Enjoy your picnic in the National Gardens (p. 85), where the kids can let off some steam. End your picnic in time to see the Changing of the Guard (p. 85), every hour on the hour at the nearby Parliament Building. Walk northwest through Kolonaki—a neighborhood favored by well-heeled Athenians—to the funicular that climbs Lycabettus Hill (p. 96). The kids will love the ride, and at the top, you’ll all be mesmerized by the views of the Acropolis and across the city to the sea. Return to your hotel in time for a late afternoon swim in the pool; if your hotel doesn’t have a pool, the Athens Hilton, in Kolonaki at 46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, will let you use theirs, 5€ a person on weekdays, 10€ on weekends.

Day 3: Corinth

Pile the family into a rental car. (For ease of getting out of Athens, you might want to zip out to the Athens airport on the Metro and get the car from a rental office out there.) No one’s going to get too squirmy, as there’s not too much driving to do today. First stop is the Isthmus of Corinth (p. 117), the narrow neck of land, only 6.3km (4 miles) wide, that connects the Peloponnese to the rest of mainland Greece. Before the Corinth Canal was dug in the 1890s, ships had to sail an extra 400km (240 miles) around the Peloponnese to reach Athens. You can observe the canal, the ship traffic—and, most impressively, the 86m-high (282-ft.) walls of rock through which the canal was cut—from a well-marked overlook off the highway. You might also see some daredevils bungee-jumping off the railroad bridge across the canal.

Just beyond the Isthmus, the Acrocorinth (p. 118), one of the world’s most remarkable fortresses, looms into view, looking as if it’s still there to defend the city of Corinth (p. 118) below. Signs point to the temples, agora, fountains, and other sprawling ruins of the Greek and Roman city, where kids will get a good sense of this ancient powerhouse that once rivaled Athens in wealth. (See if they can spot examples of Corinthian columns, with their ornately decorated tops.) End the visit with a drive up to the Acrocorinth, with its three rings of massive fortifications, and mountaintop views that sweep across the sea to the east and west.

It’s just another 55km (33 miles) on to Nafplion, where you’ll settle in for the next 2 nights. A good choice for families is the Hotel Perivoli (p. 113), on a hillside outside town with large family units and a sparkling pool. If you stay in a hotel without a pool, make your first stop Arvanitia, the town beach at the end of a pine-scented promenade.

Athens & the Islands for Families

Day 4: Nafplion & Epidaurus

Nafplion’s Old Town (p. 122), crowded onto a narrow peninsula that juts into the Bay of Argos, is decidedly family friendly, almost entirely closed to car traffic in the area surrounding marble-paved Syntagma Square. The first thing young explorers will probably want to do is climb up (part of the way via 999 steps cut into the cliff face) to the fortifications of the Acronafplia (p. 122), the southeastern heights which have defended the city for some 5,000 years. Here, the massive walls of the Palamidi Fortress (p. 123) ramble across a bluff above the sea and the city. Once back down, an ice cream from the venerable Antica Gelateria di Roma (p. 113), at 3 Pharmakopoulou, is in order after all that climbing.

In the afternoon, drive out to Epidarus (p. 125), one of the best-preserved classical Greek theaters in the world. The acoustics are so perfect that a whisper onstage can be heard at the top of the 55 tiers—plant the kids at the top of the house then step on stage to demonstrate. The adjoining Sanctuary of Asklepius at Epidaurus was one of the most famous healing centers in the Greek world, dedicated to Asklepius, son of Apollo and god of medicine. Tell the kids that one of the sanctuary’s favorite treatments involved serpents flicking their tongues over an afflicted body part—they may never complain again about a visit to the pediatrician.

Day 5: Olympia

Pack up the car and set off for Olympia (p. 126), site of the original Olympic Games. The drive is less than 3 hours, leaving time to visit the ruins and museums in the afternoon and early evening. Remains of the stadium, gymnasium, training hall, and dormitories richly evoke the city’s famous ancient games, inaugurated in 776 b.c. You can pique their interest by explaining certain gee-whizz aspects of the ancient games—such as the fact that strangulation and metal knuckles were considered perfectly acceptable tactics. Young athletes can stretch their legs with a lap or two around training fields still lined with columns. The Hotel Europa (p. 116) is a good choice for a night’s stay because it has a big pool; guests at the smaller but delightful Hotel Pelops (p. 116) may use the Europa pool as well.

Day 6: Delphi & the Sanctuary of Apollo

You’re in for a bit of driving today. It’s about 31⁄2 hours from Olympia to Delphi, but for much of the way the scenery is spectacular—you’ll follow the highway around the northern coast to Patras and then Rio, where a dramatic bridge crosses the Gulf of Corinth; that’s followed by more scenic coastline as you head east to Delphi. No other ancient site is quite as mysterious and alluring as the Sanctuary of Apollo (p. 158). Even youngsters can sense the awe as they climb the Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo, where priestesses once received cryptic messages from the god. While Delphi has some pleasant mountain hotels, your young companions will probably appreciate a stay in the nearby seaside town of Galaxidi, 35km (22 miles) southwest of Delphi. Head down in the afternoon and settle into the Hotel Ganimede (p. 131), occupying an old sea-captain’s mansion with a garden. You can walk from there to one of the town beaches.

Days 7 & 8: The Meteora

It’s about a 330km (198-mile) drive north from Delphi across the plain of Thessaly to the Meteora (p. 132). The drive through the hot, flat landscapes can seem endless but after several hours a strange sight begins to take shape: Gnarled black humps and peaks near the town of Kalambaka are topped by gravity-defying monasteries. Settle in amid them at the Pyrgos Adrachti Hotel (p. 133), a cozy inn where all views are toward the rocky spectacle. In the morning, set off on a circuit of the six monasteries that can be visited. Hours vary, so not all are open every day, but the main attraction at any of them is the remarkable setting. If anyone in your group complains about huffing and puffing up and down the hundreds of steps that provide access to the aeries, remind them that monks once made the trips in baskets hoisted on ropes that were only replaced when one broke, often with a passenger suspended in midair.

Days 9 & 10: Rhodes City

In the morning, set off on the 356km (220 miles) drive back to Athens. If you’re up for a long sea voyage, board an evening boat to Rhodes. It’s a cruise of at least 14 hrs., often longer, and if a night and part of a day at sea doesn’t appeal, fly instead. However you get to Rhodes, make Old Town (p. 208) your base. If the children are tired of togas and dusty columns, this medieval enclave is the perfect antidote—one of Europe’s great historic quarters, full of storybook atmosphere. Many hotels have pleasant gardens, and the Athineon Hotel (p. 204) has family-oriented suites and a nice swimming pool. Two landmarks will fire up youngsters’ imaginations. The City Walls (p. 210), 4km (21⁄2 miles) in length and 12m thick (40 ft.) in places, are complete with fortified gates and bastions. You can walk around the walls in their entirety, either in the dry moat between the inner and outer walls, or along the ramparts on top. The Street of the Knights (p. 211) is one of the best-preserved and most evocative medieval relics in the world, a 600m-long (1,968 ft.) stretch of cobbles where crusader knights of various nations maintained their towered, crenellated inns. For a quick dip, join the locals at Elli beach (p. 215), where the waves almost lap up against the walls surrounding the Old Town.

Day 11: Lindos

Frequent buses make the trip to the most picturesque town on the island outside of Rhodes Old Town, a collection of white-stucco houses tucked between the sea and a towering ancient acropolis (p. 212). Kids will probably want to board a donkey (also known as a “Lindian taxi”) for a slow plod all the way to the top. There, atop a flight of stone steps, are a medieval castle and an ancient Greek terrace littered with the remains of a great assembly hall with a grand columned portico. Way down below is a beach that is just too tempting to resist.

Day 12: Symi

Take a morning ferry to Symi (p. 216), where even cranky young travelers will be impressed as the boat sails into beautiful, mansion-lined Yialos harbor. One of the pleasures of this rugged little island is the slow pace. You’ll want to climb the 375 or so wide stone steps, known as the Kali Strata (the Good Steps), to picturesque Horio (p. 220), the old island capital. There the Archaeological and Folklore Museum (p. 220) shows off a replica of an old island house. The beaches on Symi aren’t spectacular, but there’s good swimming from the shoreline right around Yialos.

Day 13: Taxiarchis Mihailis Panormitis Monastery

A favorite outing from Yialos is this unexpectedly grand whitewashed monastery (p. 220) dedicated to the patron saint of seafaring Greeks, tucked away on Symi’s hilly, green southwestern corner. A charming museum is filled with wooden ship models, and a heavily frescoed church and chapels open off a courtyard. The most exciting way to reach the monastery, especially with kids, is by boat; there is also twice-a-day bus service from Yialos and Horio. However you get there, count on a refreshing swim in Panormitis Bay.

Day 14: Back to Athens

Now it’s time to head back to Athens. No better way to end a vacation in Greece than with a sea voyage, and, depending on timing, you can catch the couple-times-a-week boat from Symi to Piraeus or return to Rhodes and take one of the ferries that run a bit more frequently from there. Then, of course, there’s plan B—a quick flight from Rhodes to Athens.

Island Hopping in 2 Weeks

What could be more essentially Greek than sailing from one idyllic island to another? Especially when the stops, such as most of those below, are far enough off the beaten path to give you a sense of real Greek island life. Okay, a reality check: You might soon learn that the term “you can’t get there from here” originated in the Greek islands, and even the best-laid plans often fall victim to weather, mechanical breakdowns, or last-minute schedule changes. Plus, to save time, you’ll want to do a couple of these legs by short flights. However you get to them, though, these stops will fulfill any island-hopper’s dreams. If you don’t have a full 2 weeks to spend, you can lift out any portion of this tour.

Day 1: Athens & the Acropolis

Arrive in Athens and get settled in a hotel. You can’t come to Greece without getting at least a glimpse of some of the ancient marvels of Western Civilization. Relax a bit first, though: Summer hours keep most monuments and museum open late, plus sights in the sprawling capital are fairly concentrated. The Acropolis (p. 78) is probably within walking distance of your hotel, maybe even within sight. The ascent through the Beule Gate and up a well-worn path is stirring, and what lies beyond is even more so: The ruins of the perfectly proportioned Parthenon and surrounding temples, summoning up the glory of classical Greece. Continue with a walk through the Acropolis Museum (p. 80), where the sculptures and statuary that once adorned the Acropolis temples are on display, including a section of the magnificent Parthenon Frieze. Then stroll along the Grand Promenade (p. 82), a cobblestone-and-marble, pedestrian-only boulevard that skirts the Acropolis Hill. You’ll get a glimpse of the Theater of Dionysus (p. 84), where the newest dramas of Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides once delighted audiences. Plunge back into the present day, by following Adrianou (Hadrian) Street through the colorful Plaka neighborhood (p. 87). End your day by strolling around the evocative ruins of the Ancient Agora (p. 88), once the business and political hub of ancient Athens. Then it’s time for dinner, maybe beneath a shady plane tree at a long-time favorite, the Platanos Taverna (p. 74).

Day 2: Athens to Alonissos

You’ll spend the day on the move, first traveling from Athens by morning bus to—depending on boat schedules—either Ayios Konstantinos or Volos, two mainland ports each 3 to 4 hours north of Athens. Boats depart from both for Alonissos (p. 292), 2 hours off the mainland by hydrofoil, 41⁄2 hours by ferry. Any good travel agency in Athens can help you make arrangements for the combined bus and boat trip. You’ll probably settle onto the island in time for a sunset cocktail on the terrace of your hotel—a good choice is the Paradise (p. 293), nestled amid pines above Parikia, the port. Here you’ll find outlooks over a serene bay that’s one of the best spots on the island for a refreshing swim. Enjoy a seafood dinner at Archipelagos (p. 293), on the Parikia waterfront.

Day 3: Hora & Kokkinokastro

You’ll quickly learn that the life on Alonissos is pretty slow-paced, and you might be tempted to spend the day in a lounger and soak up some sun, as many northern European visitors do. If you feel like being a bit more active, however, hike from Parikia up to Hora, the old hilltop capital, in less than an hour along an old, stepped mule track—do this in the morning, though, before the heat of the day. In summer, a bus makes the trip, and also goes out to the beach at Kokkinokastro (p. 294), about 3km (2 miles) north of Patitiri, where the walls of the ancient city of Ikos are visible beneath the waves. Snorkelers and divers might want to stop in at Alonissos Triton Dive Center, in Patitiri (p. 295) and arrange an excursion to one of the outlying shipwrecks.

Day 4: National Marine Park

Alonissos is surrounded by the waters of the 2,200 sq. km (849 sq. miles) National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades (p. 294), the largest marine protected area in the Mediterranean, encompassing eight islands (of which only Alonissos is inhabited), 22 rocky outcroppings, and the waters that surround them. The park is home to the highly endangered Mediterranean monk seal, as well as falcons, dolphins, and wild goats. Excursion boats from the dock in Patitiri make day-long outings through the scattered island refuges, stopping for lunch, swimming, snorkeling, and a walk to the island’s one outpost of civilization, the all-but-abandoned Megistis Lavras monastery.

Day 5: Alonissos to Skyros

It’s time to move on to another Sporades, adrift by itself in the Aegean. You’ll appreciate just how remote Skyros (p. 295) is when you try to get there. Check boat schedules with one of the agencies on the Parikia waterfront. In the summer, a few boats a week travel directly from Alonnisos to Skyros; otherwise you’ll need to sail from Alonissos to Kymi, on the island of Evvia, where you can get a ferry to Skyros. With a day of travel you’ll probably arrive before sundown, in time to see the spectacle of mirage-like Skyros Town (p. 296), with its white, flat-roofed houses clinging to a high rocky bluff. That’s where you’ll want to settle in for 2 nights, either in the heights of Skyros Town at the Nefeli (p. 297) or another hotel within walking distance of Skyros Town.

Day 6: Skyros Town

Without traveling very far, you can divide the day between sightseeing in Skyros Town and spending some time on the beach. Do your exploring of Skyros Town in the morning, to spare yourself the uphill climbs in the heat of the day. A mandatory stop is the Manos Faltaits Historical and Folklore Museum (p. 299), where you’ll see examples of the local plates, embroidery, weaving, carved furniture, and clothing that are still a part of everyday life on the island. A sandy beach stretches just beneath Skyros Town at Magazia (p. 299), at the bottom of a stairway from Plateia Rupert Brooke. (That’s Rupert Brooke as in the famous British World War I poet, who died on Skyros in 1915—a huge statue in the square commemorates him.)

Island Hopping in 2 Weeks

Day 7: Skyros: North & South

Skyros is an island divided, between the fertile, forested north and the arid, rugged south. You can see easily see both is a day of exploring by rental car. First set your sights on Palamari (p. 299), at the northern tip of the island, where behind the sandy beach are remnants of walls built by ancient settlers. The island’s best beach is here in the north, on the west coast at Agios Fokas (p. 300), where little bays are edged with white pebbles. A single road leads south through a desolate, rocky landscape and ends at Tris Boukes Bay (p. 300), where Rupert Brooke is buried in a simple grave.

Day 8: Skyros to Lesbos

This is another day full of travel, with an early start on the 7 or 8am ferry from Skyros to Kymi; the crossing takes a little less than 2 hours. Once in Kymi, you’ll board a bus for the 21⁄2-hour trip down to Athens, and from there take the metro to Piraeus. If all goes well, you’ll be in Piraeus with plenty of time to spare for the evening sailing to Lesbos, docking the next morning. If you’ve done enough sea voyaging for a while, catch a late afternoon flight to the island. Whenever you arrive, head straight to the Votsala Hotel (p. 304) on the seaside north of Mytlilini, and settle into one of the breezy rooms and relax on the seaside terrace.

Day 9: Lesbos: The North

When you’re ready to explore, head for Molyvos (p. 309), about 60 km (37 miles) northwest of Mytilini, a pretty town with lanes full of mansions of stone and pink-pastel stucco, climbing from a picturesque harbor full of fishing boats that unload their catch next to cafés. It’s worth the hike (or a much less strenuous drive) to the hilltop Castle of Molyvos for views across the island and up and down the nearby Turkish coast. For some relaxation, head east 4km (21⁄2 miles) along the coast road to Efthalou (p. 310), where you may soak in a pool inside an Ottoman house or in the sea out front, where springs bubble up amid the rocks. To the east lies Golden Beach, a long stretch of sand where you’re likely to find a spot far from the crowds. A flat, well-maintained dirt road continues 16km (91⁄2 miles) east along the coast to the compact fishing port of Skala Sikiminias (p. 310), with a photogenic white chapel at one end of its tidy, café-lined harbor.

Day 10: Mytilini and the West

Begin the day in Mytlini (p. 312), for walks along the waterfront and the market street, Ermou, that bisects the center of town. The main attractions are just south of town in Vara. The Teriade Museum (p. 307) shows off drawings, lithographs, and paintings by Matisse, Picasso, Giacometti, and many other early 20th-century artists, and the Theophilos Museum (p. 308) is filled with the colorful canvases of local folk painter Theophilos Hatziminhail. From Mytilini, follow the main east–west road that traverses the island and turn south at Keramia to reach the beautiful mountain village of Agiasos (p. 311), about 25km (15 miles) from Mytilini. Surrounded by orchards, olive groves, and pine and chestnut forests, Agiasos nestles on the slopes of Mount Olympus—one of 19 peaks in Greece with that name—and surrounds the ornate church of the Panagia Vrefokratousa (Madonna Holding the Infant). From here, it’s about another 60km (36 miles) west to Skala Eressos (p. 312), associated with the ancient poet Sappho, known for her poems praising women. The Sappho association draws many female visitors to this animated port and fishing village, popular with travelers of all persuasions for its long stretch of sand and laidback beach life.

Day 11: Lesbos to Patmos

Patmos, one of Greece’s holiest islands, is where St. John the Apostle supposedly received his divine revelations. First, though, you’ll have to get there, and the logistics will make you wish for some divine intervention, or a private yacht. An early morning ferry will get you from Lesbos to Samos, for a connection from there to Patmos, with arrival in the late afternoon or early evening. To enjoy the island in style—and you deserve some spoiling after all that travel—settle into the Petra Hotel and Apartments (p. 232) or Porto Scoutari (p. 232).

Day 12: Patmos & the Holy Sights

First stops on Patmos (well, after a morning swim) are the island’s two famous religious sights: the Cave of the Apocalypse (p. 233), perched on a hillside above Skala, the port; and atop the hill, the fortresslike Monastery of St. John (p. 233), with its treasure-filled frescoed chapels, surrounded by medieval Hora. Buses from Skala serve both. Begin by exploring Hora, a labyrinth of whitewashed stone homes, shops, and churches. After a visit to the monastery, walk down the well-marked path to the famous cave where St. John the Divine (a.k.a. the Apostle) allegedly received the word of God. From there, it’s an easy descent back down to Skala.

Day 13: Psili Ammos

Time out for a beach day. Set your sights on Psili Ammos (p. 234), an isolated fine-sand cove bordered by cliffs. It’s possible to walk to Psili Ammos from the little settlement of Diakofti, about a 30-minute trek on goat paths (wear real shoes), but most sunseekers arrive by one of the caiques leaving Skala harbor in the morning and returning around 4 to 5pm. Groves of pine trees provide plenty of shade, and a simple taverna sells snacks. End the visit on a romantic note, with an excellent dinner on the seaside terrace at Benetos (p. 232), just outside Skala in Grikos.

Day 14: Symi

Take a morning ferry from Patmos to Symi (p. 216), where you’ll pull into beautiful, mansion-lined Yialos harbor. You’ll want to climb the 375 or so wide stone steps, known as the Kali Strata (the Good Steps), to picturesque Horio (p. 220), the old island capital. There the Archaeological and Folklore Museum (p. 220) shows off a replica of an old island house. You’ll still have time for an excursion out to Taxiarchis Mihailis Panormitis, an unexpectedly grand whitewashed monastery (p. 221) dedicated to the patron saint of seafaring Greeks, tucked away on Symi’s hilly, green southwestern corner. A charming museum is filled with wooden ship models, and a heavily frescoed church and chapels open off a courtyard. The best way to reach the monastery is by boat, although there is also twice-a-day bus from Yialos and Horio. While there, count on a refreshing swim in Panormitis Bay.

Day 15: Back to Athens

Now it’s time to head back to Athens. Depending on timing, you can catch the once-a-week boat from Symi to Piraeus or sail to Rhodes and take one of the overnight ferries than run a bit more frequently from there. Then, of course, there’s plan B—a quick flight from Rhodes to Athens where you can get ready for your flight home.