I love dishes that are succulent, that have a lot of character, complexity, and depth by virtue of a long cooking process, things like the veal breast or the short ribs in the pot-au-feu. The technique is what satisfies. What I love about these braised items is that they’re not just sauté-and-serve. The process behind them requires thought on the part of the cook, and technique, to create something more than what you started with. A filet mignon is a filet mignon—there’s little difference between the raw meat and the cooked meat. But short ribs, veal breast—they become completely different entities after they’re cooked. They transcend themselves, developing a full, complex, satisfying taste and aroma.
The process of braising short ribs—it could be any kind of braise—is an exquisite thing. First, we make the marinade by cooking the alcohol out of the wine, then adding the aromatics: carrots, onions, herbs. When the mixture cools, we pour it over the meat and let it sit for a day.
The next step is to separate those three elements—marinade, aromatic vegetables, and meat—and work separately with each. First, we strain the marinating liquid, then bring it to a boil. The albumin (proteins) in the meat juices that leached into the marinade solidify and form a clarifying raft, which is removed, leaving a clear mixture. As always, we’re searching for the cleanest, brightest possible flavors.
Next, we brown the aromatic vegetables, to develop some of the caramel richness of their sugars. Then we dust the meat with flour and brown it on all sides. That aroma of the browning ribs has a depth to it that is like no other aroma for me. When the meat is browned, we add the browned vegetables and the clarified marinade, then finish the braising liquid with some veal stock. Then we cook the ribs in the oven for five to six hours.
When the short ribs are cooked, we remove them, very gently because they’re so succulent and tender they’re falling apart, from the cooking liquid. We strain out the aromatics and reduce the liquid to a sauce consistency, skimming it often. Finally, we strain it again and serve the dish.
Braised dishes like the short ribs get better with age. After a day or two, their flavors have had a chance to mature together. These are the kinds of things I like to make at home in the winter and eat over several days.
What we’re doing here is taking cheaper, tougher cuts of meat and transforming them into beautiful, tender, exquisite dishes that are far more satisfying than filet mignon or rack of lamb. Again, to me, these dishes are what cooking is all about.
Braised Prime Beef Short Ribs with Root Vegetables and Sautéed Bone Marrow
MARROW BONES
8 pieces marrow bone (cut 1½ inches long)
About 1 cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Canola oil
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
2 pieces prime boneless short ribs (about 1 inch thick and 1¾ pounds each) or 3½ pounds boneless short ribs or 8 pieces bone-in short ribs (about 7 to 8 ounces each)
1 recipe Red Wine Marinade
Canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour for dusting
2 to 3 cups Veal Stock
2 to 3 cups Chicken Stock
ROOT VEGETABLES
2 medium sweet bunch carrots
2 small parsnips
2 small turnips, cut into ¼-inch dice
2 tablespoons sugar
8 baby leeks or small scallions, tough outer layer removed and trimmed
16 white pearl onions, peeled
16 red pearl onions, peeled
½ teaspoon red wine vinegar
½ cup tomato diamonds
3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
1 pound caul fat (only for boneless short ribs) soaked in cold water for 30 minutes (optional)
Canola oil
Gray salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
We use the extraordinary short ribs from Dawson-Baker in Kentucky. The recipe will work with bone-in short ribs as well. Marrow is a traditional element of pot-au-feu, but we flour and pan-roast it so that it’s crunchy on the outside and succulent on the inside, adding a whole new dimension to the dish.
I wrap the short ribs in caul fat to create tighter, more compact pieces of meat, but caul fat can be difficult to find. Try ethnic markets or specialty butchers if you would like to use it, but eliminating it will not affect the flavor of the dish much. If you’ve never used it, though, do try to find some and experiment. Caul fat helps the meat keep its shape, and it bastes the meat as the fat renders.
Begin preparing the short ribs and the marrow the day before you plan to serve this dish.
FOR THE MARROW: Soak the marrow bones in a bowl of ice water for 20 minutes. Drain and remove the marrow from the bones by pushing it out with your finger. If it doesn’t come out easily, soak the bones briefly in warm water, just enough to loosen the marrow. Soak the marrow pieces in a bowl of ice water overnight, changing the water every 6 to 8 hours. (It is important to change the water because as the blood is extracted from the marrow, the water will become saturated with blood and the marrow could spoil.)
FOR THE SHORT RIBS: If you have two large pieces of boneless short ribs, trim the excess fat from the meat (leaving the silverskin attached) and cut each piece against the grain into two pieces. If you have smaller boneless short ribs, there is no need to split them in half. Bone-in short ribs usually don’t require any trimming. Place the meat in a well-sealed plastic bag with the marinade and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours, turning the bag once or twice.
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Remove the meat from the marinade. Strain the marinade into a saucepan and reserve the vegetables. Bring the marinade to a simmer and “clarify” the liquid by skimming off the impurities that rise to the top. Remove from the heat.
Heat ⅛ inch of canola oil in a large skillet over high heat. Season both sides of each piece of meat with salt and pepper and dust with flour, patting off the excess. Place the meat in the hot oil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on all sides, until well browned (adjusting the heat as necessary). Remove the meat to a heavy ovenproof pot or casserole that holds the pieces in one layer.
Pour off the excess oil from the pan, return to the heat, and sauté the reserved vegetables for a few minutes, or until they begin to caramelize. Spread the vegetables over the meat in an even layer and add the marinade and 2 cups each of veal and chicken stock. The meat should be covered with liquid; if it is not, add more veal and chicken stock as necessary.
Bring the liquid to a simmer on the stove. Cover with a parchment paper lid, transfer to the oven, and braise for 5 to 6 hours for boneless short ribs or 3 to 4 hours for ribs with bones, or until the meat is very tender.
Remove the meat from the pot and strain the liquid into a tall narrow container. Discard the vegetables. Once the meat has cooled slightly, cover it and refrigerate it; it can be stored for up to 2 days.
Skim the fat that rises to the top of the braising liquid and strain the liquid several times through a chinois until the chinois remains clean. Reserve one third of the braising liquid for reheating the short ribs and vegetable garnish before serving. Transfer the remaining braising liquid to a saucepan and reduce until it is a sauce consistency (about 2 cups).
FOR THE ROOT VEGETABLES: Cut the vegetables into pieces of about the same size: Starting at the narrow end of each carrot, cut it in an oblique cut: First, cut off a diagonal piece about ⅓ inch long, with the knife blade pointing away from you at a 45-degree angle. Roll the carrot a quarter turn and cut another piece at the same angle. Repeat the process until the carrot widens. Slice the wider part of the carrot lengthwise in half and continue to turn and cut the carrot. If the pieces become too large, cut the carrot lengthwise in half again to keep the finished pieces equal in size. Use the same method to cut the parsnips. Keep them separate.
Blanch the carrots, parsnips, and turnips together in boiling salted water sweetened with the sugar until completely tender. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon or skimmer and chill in ice water; drain when cold and set aside.
Add the leeks to the boiling water and blanch until tender. Remove to another ice-water bath. Repeat with the white pearl onions and finally the red pearl onions, adding the red wine vinegar, which will help the onions keep their red color, to the boiling water. When the vegetables are cold, drain and dry them on paper towels.
TO COMPLETE: If using boneless short ribs, trim the sides to even them. Cut each piece of rib into rectangular pieces about 1½ inches by 2½ inches. (The size will depend largely on the form of your meat.) If you are wrapping the meat in caul fat, dry the caul fat well. Wrap each piece of meat in caul fat, rolling it over to encase it in a double layer of caul fat; you should still see the meat through the fat.
In a skillet that will hold the ribs comfortably in one layer, heat ⅛ inch of oil over medium-high heat. The oil should be hot but not smoking. Place the ribs in the pan and cook until golden brown on all six sides, about 30 seconds per side. If you have used caul fat, it will be almost completely rendered but should still form a translucent “seal” around the short ribs. Transfer the browned ribs to a pot where they fit in one layer.
Place enough of the braising liquid to just cover the cooked vegetables in a saucepan and set aside. Add the remaining braising liquid to the pot with the ribs. The ribs should be floating in liquid; if necessary, add veal stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Remove from the heat and cover the meat with a lid or parchment paper lid. Keep in a warm spot or in a 300°F. oven until ready to serve, or for up to 45 minutes.
Add the cooked carrots, parsnips, turnips, red and white pearl onions, and the tomato diamonds to the reserved braising liquid in the saucepan and heat gently to warm. Add the chopped parsley.
Meanwhile, cook the bone marrow: This step should be done at the last minute before serving. Drain and dry the pieces of bone marrow and trim the ends of each to create a flat surface. Place the flour in a small container or on a plate. Season the bone marrow on all sides with kosher salt. Generously coat each piece in the flour and lightly top off any excess. Heat ⅛ inch of oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot. (If the oil is too hot, the flour will burn before the marrow has a chance to crisp; if the oil is too cold, the marrow will melt before the outside is crisp—and you’ll be left with a ring of flour and no marrow. Working with half the marrow pieces at a time, stand each piece of marrow in the pan and cook until the ends are golden brown, 30 to 45 seconds per end. Lay the pieces of marrow on their sides and roll them to brown lightly on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes. The outside should be crispy but the inside should still have a gelatinous consistency. Remove from the pan and keep in a warm place.
Using a slotted spoon, arrange an equal amount of the vegetables on each serving plate. Place the leeks in the vegetable braising liquid to warm for a minute.
Place the short ribs on top of the vegetables and spoon the sauce over the sides, so that it lightly coats the meat and drizzles onto the vegetables. Lay a piece of bone marrow over the top of each rib. Sprinkle gray salt and then the chopped chives over the bone marrow. Top each with a baby leek.
pictured here makes 8 servings
Very rarely will you see a pot with its lid on it in my kitchen. I prefer parchment paper lids, because they allow some evaporation as well as a long cooking time, and they also protect the surface of the meat from becoming caramelized as it cooks. It’s like having a lid and not having a lid at the same time.
To make a parchment lid, cut or tear a square of parchment bigger than the pot to be covered. Fold two opposite corners together to form a triangle, then fold this triangle in half into a smaller triangle; it will have two short sides and one long side. Position the triangle so that one of the short sides faces you. Fold this bottom edge up, making a narrow triangle, and crease it, maintaining the point of the triangle, as if you were making a paper airplane. Fold this “wing” over again, maintaining the point, and continue folding in this manner until you get to the other side—about five or six folds in all. You should finish with a very slender triangle.
To measure the size, place the tip over the center of the pot to be covered, mark the edge of the pot with your thumb, and cut the end off here. Then cut a quarter inch off the tip. Unfold your triangle. It will be a circle the size of your pot, with a steam hole in the center. Place this paper lid in the pot so that it rests gently on the food you’re cooking.
If you’re marinating anything with alcohol, cook the alcohol off first. Alcohol doesn’t tenderize; cooking tenderizes. Alcohol in a marinade in effect cooks the exterior of the meat, preventing the meat from fully absorbing the flavors in the marinade.
Raw alcohol itself doesn’t do anything good to meat. So put your wine or spirits in a pan, add your aromatics, cook off the alcohol, let it cool, and then pour it over your meat. This way you have the richness of the fruit of the wine or Cognac or whatever you’re using, but you don’t have that chemical reaction of “burning” the meat with alcohol or its harsh raw flavor.
I don’t know if there’s a place for raw alcohol, as opposed to wine that is cooked in some way, in the preparation of haute cuisine. And if you’re serious about eating, if you’re serious about food and wine, you should consider the fact that raw alcohol in food will overwhelm the wine you’re serving with that food.
One 750-ml bottle red wine
½ cup carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
⅔ cup leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and pale green part only)
½ cup onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
3 cloves garlic, smashed
10 sprigs Italian parsley
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
This marinade, used in several dishes, can also be made with white wine when appropriate—with veal, for example. Use a wine that is acceptable for drinking, such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or Sauvignon Blanc. Always cook off all the alcohol first, or the alcohol will begin to cook your meat (see above).
Place all the ingredients in a wide pot and bring to a boil. Tilt the pan away from the burner and carefully ignite the wine with a match. Allow the alcohol to burn off, then light it again. If there are no flames, the alcohol is gone. Cool the marinade, then pour over the meat and marinate for 8 to 24 hours.
makes a generous quart
Braised Breast of Veal with Yellow Corn Polenta Cakes
VEAL
1 Bobby veal breast (about 5 pounds)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs; see Sources) or dry bread crumbs, finely ground in a blender and sifted through a fine strainer
BRAISING LIQUID
1½ cups leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1 cup carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1 cup onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
½ large head garlic, cut in half, root end and loose skin removed
1 bay leaf
4 sprigs thyme
½ cup Italian parsley sprigs
5 cups Chicken Stock, water, or a combination
3 cups Veal Stock
POLENTA
2½ cups Chicken Stock
3 cups water
½ teaspoon minced garlic
1½ cups polenta
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons mascarpone
2 tablespoons minced chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour for dusting
SAUCE
1 cup reduced braising liquid (from above)
2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
1 tablespoon finely minced Italian parsley
¼ cup Beurre Monté
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
VEGETABLE GARNISH
Thirty-two 1-inch pieces carrot, turned or cut into ¼-inch-thick batons
24 batons celery root (1 inch by ¼ inch)
24 fluted ovals of turnip
32 parisienne balls of beet
8 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
Pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon canola oil
⅓ cup Beurre Monté
1 teaspoon finely minced chives
2 teaspoon finely minced chives
A week before the French Laundry opened, I cooked this in my oven at home for the original crew, and we sat out on the back deck and ate together. It was the last time we did that, so this is a meaningful recipe to me, an original French Laundry dish.
The veal breast (ask your butcher for a Bobby veal breast; from a very young animal, it’s smaller than a regular breast) is braised, then cooled; the bones are removed and the breast is folded over to double its thickness, cut into serving portions (I cut it into rounds), and sautéed to reheat. It’s served on a polenta cake with root vegetables and a sauce made from the braising liquid.
This recipe must be started a day ahead.
TO BRAISE THE VEAL: Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Trim the bottom of the veal breast of excess connective tissue. Season both sides of the breast with salt and pepper. In a heavy ovenproof pot large enough to contain the veal breast and the braising liquid, heat ⅛ inch of oil over medium heat until it is so hot that you hear it “pop.” Place the veal breast skin side down in the pot and sear until it is crispy and a rich golden brown. Turn the breast and sear the other side the same way (the second side won’t brown as evenly as the first side because of the curvature of the ribs). Remove the meat and drain off any excess fat that has accumulated in the pot.
Add the leeks, carrots, onions, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley to the pot. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, so the vegetables begin to caramelize. Return the meat to the pot, bone side down, add the chicken and veal stocks, and cover with a parchment lid. Bring the liquid to a simmer on top of the stove, then transfer to the oven and cook for 3½ to 4 hours, or until you can slide out the rib bones without any resistance.
Using two large spatulas, carefully remove the meat from the pan. (Lift from underneath the meat, or it may fall apart because it is so tender.) Place the veal on a cutting board, bone side up. While the meat is still hot, use your fingers and a knife to remove all the gummy pieces of connective tissue, being careful not to remove too much meat with it. Pull out the rib bones. Remove all the cartilage that runs the length of the side of the breast. This white, soft cartilage will be larger at the top of the breast and get smaller as you approach the bottom of the breast; you will need to feel under the surface, because not all the pieces of cartilage are visible.
Season the top side of the breast with salt and pepper. Fold the breast in half and season both sides. Place the veal breast on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover the meat with another piece of parchment and lay another baking sheet on top. Place a light weight on the baking sheet and refrigerate overnight to flatten the meat. (The weighted veal breast should be about ¾ inch high.)
Strain the braising liquid through a China cap and then through a chinois, without pressing on anything that remains in the strainer. (Pushing through any solids or thick and pasty liquid would cloud your finished sauce.) Cool down the strained liquid (There should be about 3 quarts) in a container set over ice. Once cool, cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, remove any fat that may have solidified on top of the braising liquid. (The liquid will probably have gelled from the gelatin in the meat.) Place the braising liquid in a pan, heat slowly to a simmer, and reduce the liquid until it is a deep red brown, thick, and glossy; you should have about 2 cups. Set aside 1 cup of sauce for this dish. (The remaining sauce can be frozen for future use.)
FOR THE POLENTA: Bring the chicken stock, water, and garlic to a boil in a saucepan. Whisking constantly, pour in the polenta. Return the liquid to a simmer and cook the polenta over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the polenta is thick and smooth.
When the polenta is cooked, stir in the butter, mascarpone, chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread the polenta in a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Let it cool to room temperature, then cover the surface with plastic wrap and refrigerate. (This recipe makes extra polenta, but it will keep for a few days for another meal.)
FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH: Place the carrots, celery root, and turnips in a pot of lightly salted cold water, bring to a boil, and cook until tender. Meanwhile, cook the beets the same way in a small pot (so they don’t discolor the other vegetables). Remove the blanched carrots, celery, and turnips to a bowl of ice water to cool. Chill the beets separately in another bowl of ice water (the beets should be kept separate until ready to serve so they don’t discolor the other vegetables).
Put the garlic in a small saucepan of cold water and bring to a boil. Drain the garlic in a strainer and rinse under cold running water. Repeat the procedure two times, but the last time, boil the garlic cloves until they are tender.
TO COMPLETE: With a 2-inch round cutter (or similar size), cut 8 rounds from the polenta. Use the same cutter to cut 8 rounds from the veal breast. Brush the pieces of veal breast with the mustard and dredge them in the crumbs.
Heat about ⅛ inch of canola oil in each of two ovenproof skillets over medium heat. Coat the pieces of polenta with flour, patting off any excess. Add the veal breast to one skillet and the polenta to the other. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until evenly browned and hot. (Shake the pan containing the veal; when the meat moves freely, it is ready to turn.) If the meat or polenta browns before the centers are hot, the skillets can be placed in a 350°F. oven to finish cooking.
Meanwhile, drain the vegetables. Melt the butter with the sugar in a small skillet. When the butter is hot, add the garlic cloves and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes over low heat, until golden brown. Set aside.
Heat the canola oil in a medium skillet. When it is hot, sauté the blanched carrots, celery root, and turnips over medium heat until they have colored slightly. Drain the oil from the skillet, lower the heat, and add the beurre monté and the chives. Keep the vegetables warm over low heat; do not boil.
Warm the sauce in a small saucepan. Stir in the shallots, parsley, and beurre monté. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Center a pool of sauce on each serving plate, top with a round of polenta, and cover with a piece of veal breast. Stir the beets into the warm vegetable garnish and spoon the vegetables and garlic cloves over the veal. Sprinkle with the chives.
pictured here makes 8 servings
