At the French Laundry, we use an awful lot of butter without actually serving a lot of butter, because of our reliance on the substance called beurre monté. We cook in it, rest meats in it, make sauces with it. It’s an extraordinary vehicle for both heat and flavor. Butter in its solid state is an emulsification of butter fat, milk solids, and water. If you melt butter, these three components separate, but beurre monté—a few drops of water and chunks of butter whisked over moderate heat—is a method of melting butter while maintaining the emulsification.
We use beurre monté in many different ways and for different reasons. Poaching lobster in it is one of its primary uses. Its flesh impregnated with the flavor of butter, this lobster reminds me of Maine lobster that you eat with drawn butter, and for me that’s what lobster is all about.
Poaching lobster in beurre monté is also an easy way to cook it. Beurre monté stays between 180° and 190°F. in our kitchen (it will break, or separate, if you boil it) and therefore it’s always at a perfect poaching temperature. Butter-poached lobster is meltingly tender, moist, and flavorful. And because of the gentle temperature, it’s harder to overcook it; once the lobster hits the right point of doneness, it stays there for a while. Butter-poached lobster is easy to do at home: Make your beurre monté, bring it to 160° to 190°F., pop your cleaned room-temperature tails and claws into it, and let them poach for 5 to 6 minutes.
We also use beurre monté to baste meats, and this has several purposes. When we sauté beef or venison or a saddle of lamb, we typically finish cooking it in the oven. But before we do, we drain the fat out of the pan and ladle a little beurre monté over the meat. This helps to keep the meat moist, enhances the flavor, and also improves the cooking, because the even layer of fat—the beurre monté—is a heat conductor. (We always let the pan cool down a little, though; if the pan’s too hot, the beurre monté will separate and the solids will burn.)
When the meats are done, they come out of the oven and are submerged in beurre monté—it’s the perfect resting medium. It actually lowers the temperature of the meat, reducing what is called carryover cooking, then maintains it at a great serving temperature. But most important, the weight of the fat surrounding the meat keeps the meat juices from leaking out—they stay in the meat. So here, we use beurre monté as environmental control, and it enhances the flavor.
Almost all our canapé sauces are made à la minute with beurre monté. The sauce for the blini, for “Oysters and Pearls,” for “Bacon and.. Eggs”—all are simply a spoonful of beurre monté with different flavoring ingredients.
And finally, what we don’t use, we simply clarify the next day and then use this clear butter for hollandaise or for sautéing scallops, for cooking soft-shelled crabs, crêpes, potato chips. You can do that too, or simply refrigerate it and use it the same way you’d use whole butter for cooking.
A little bit of water helps the emulsion process: Whether you emulsify 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) or 1 pound of butter, just a tablespoon of water will do. Any amount of beurre monté can be made using the following method. Read the particular recipe through to determine the total amont of beurre monté you will need.
Bring the water to a boil in an appropriate-size saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and begin whisking the chunks of butter into the water, bit by bit, to emulsify. Once you have established the emulsion, you can continue to add pieces of butter until you have the quantity of beurre monté that you need (we make 20 pounds at a time). It is important to keep the level of heat gentle and consistent in order to maintain the emulsification. Make the beurre monté close to the time it will be used and keep it in a warm place. If you have extra beurre monté, it can be refrigerated and then reheated to use as melted butter or clarified.
Though we are enamored of beurre monté and use it all day in our kitchens, when a recipe calls for only a tablespoon or two, you can substitute whole butter.
30 medium stalks asparagus
1 to 2 cups Vegetable Stock, Chicken Stock, or water
24 medium morels (about 8 ounces), soaked in several changes of warm water until clean and rinsed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 small sprigs thyme
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
7 to 8 tablespoons Beurre Monté
2 teaspoons minced chives
2 tablespoons Brunoise
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons tomato diamonds
Canola oil
6 jumbo scallops, tough ligaments removed (about 2½ ounces each)
This dish uses the classic combination of morels and asparagus. The sauce is simply a purée of asparagus finished with a little beurre monté. Our scallops are briny, which I think is fundamental in a good scallop. Be careful not to overcook them; too much heat will destroy that briny quality and make them stringy.
I cherish our scallop dishes, not only because of the scallops themselves but also because of my relationship with Ingrid Bengis. Her scallops are harvested from November through May off Stonington, Maine, and Ingrid knows which fishermen shuck scallops into saltwater (as opposed to shucking them dry or into fresh water), which keeps their briny quality, and she sends them to us dry-packed (many scallops are packed in a chemical brine that plumps them and makes them too watery).
Trim away the bottom third of each asparagus spear and discard. Cut 1½-inch-long tips from the asparagus spears; reserve the stalks. Blanch the asparagus tips in boiling water (see Big-Pot Blanching) until just tender and remove to an ice water bath. Blanch the stalks until they are fully cooked and place in a second ice water bath. When the tips and spears are cold, transfer to paper towels to drain.
Purée the stalks in a blender with just enough stock or water (2 to 4 tablespoons) to allow them to turn. Pour the purée onto a tamis set over a bowl and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to allow excess liquid to drain. Discard the liquid and scrape the purée through the tamis. You should have about ⅓ cup of purée.
Trim the stems from the morels. Place them in a saucepan, add enough stock or water to cover, and simmer until tender. Drain the mushrooms and cut them into small dice.
TO COMPLETE: Heat the butter in a medium sauté pan. When it is hot, add the morels, thyme sprigs, and garlic. Cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Add the shallot to the pan and cook for 1 more minute. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme and garlic. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons beurre monté, the chives, and brunoise. Season with salt and white pepper; keep warm.
Warm the asparagus tips with the tomato diamonds and 2 tablespoons beurre monté in a small pan over low heat. In a separate pan, warm the asparagus purée and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons beurre monté. Season both mixtures with salt and white pepper to taste; keep warm.
Heat ⅛ inch of canola oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Pat the scallops dry on paper towels, season with salt, and place them in the pan. Cook the scallops for 1 to 2 minutes one each side, or until well browned.
Place a spoonful of the asparagus purée on each plate. Center a spoonful of the mushroom mixture over the purée and top with a scallop. Stack the asparagus tips and tomatoes over the scallops.
makes 6 servings
3 medium stalks celery
Kosher salt
Canola oil
Six 1½- by 2- by 1-inch-thick pieces salmon fillet, skin on (see Crisping Skin)
Freshly ground white pepper
2 teaspoons water
3 tablespoons (1½ ounces) unsalted butter
1½ teaspoons white truffle oil
3 tablespoons lightly whipped cream
18 thin slices black truffle, plus 2 tablespoons finely julienned (slivered) black truffle
Six 1½-inch round brioche croutons
6 sprigs chervil
The idea of doing a fish chop was inspired by David Burke, the relentlessly creative chef of New York City’s Park Avenue Café. He uses swordfish, which is too big for the French Laundry, but there’s a section of the salmon fillet near the head that can be cut into two chops. It’s anything but practical, since you only get two from each whole salmon. Here, to replace the chop cut, use salmon fillet.
Peel the celery stalks, squaring off the rounded side of the stalks as you peel. Slice the celery lengthwise on a mandoline and cut the slices into fine julienne about 1 inch long.
Blanch the celery in boiling salted water until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching), drain it in a strainer, and place the strainer in an ice-water bath. When the celery is cold, drain, dry on paper towels, and sprinkle with salt to taste. You should have about ¼ cup of celery.
Heat about ⅛ inch of canola oil in a large skillet. Season the salmon with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot, add the salmon fillets skin side down and cook for about 1 minute, then turn over and cook for another minute. “Kiss,” or briefly cook, the sides of the pieces. Remove the cooked salmon and keep warm.
FOR THE SAUCE: Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the butter to emulsify (see Beurre Monté). After adding the last of the butter, whisk in the white truffle oil. Remove the butter from the heat and vigorously whisk in the heavy cream to create a slight froth. Season with salt.
Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the sauce into the center of each of six bowls. Arrange three small nests of celery, equally spaced, around each pool of the sauce. Top each nest with a slice of truffle. Place a crouton in the center of the sauce and top with a piece of salmon, skin side up. Garnish each fillet with julienned truffle and a sprig of chervil. Sprinkle the dish lightly with salt.
pictured here makes 6 servings
1 side salmon (a whole fillet, about 4 pounds), skin and pin bones removed
CITRUS MARINADE
Finely grated zest of 1 orange (about 2 teaspoons)
Finely grated zest of ½ lemon (about 1 teaspoon)
Finely grated zest of ½ lime (about ½ teaspoon)
Finely grated zest of ¼ grapefruit (about 2 teaspoons)
⅓ cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper
ORANGE CONFIT
4 navel oranges
½ cup Simple Syrup
½ teaspoon white wine vinegar
PEA SHOOT COULIS
3 quarts (6 ounces) pea shoots
2 to 3 tablespoons Chicken Stock (optional)
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Olive oil for poaching
⅓ cup finely minced chives
1 to 2 ounces beluga caviar
As with the Warm Fruitwood-Smoked Salmon with Potato Gnocchi and Balsamic Glaze, I work a similar twist on the citrus-marinated salmon, which is cured and flavored with ground citrus zest. We poach the salmon in olive oil very, very gently, at about 110 degrees. Again, what is normally served cold, as gravlax, is served hot and yet it has even more of the qualities you look for in the cold preparation, that melting richness of cold cured salmon. I use navel oranges because they have no seeds, give the highest yield, and have the best shape. If pea shoots are unavailable, you could substitute pea tendrils or watercress, preparing them the same way.
Both of these salmon preparations are unique and embody some of the most exciting elements of cooking for me.
NOTE: In order to get the proper thickness needed for this dish, start with a whole fillet, or side of salmon. After trimming, you will have about two pounds of salmon left, which can be used for another dish.
Place the salmon fillet rounded side up on a cutting board. Trim the salmon of its thin fatty belly flap and any other fat, and cut off the last 2 to 3 inches of the tail end (reserve it for another use). Flip the fillet over and trim away and discard any dark flesh. You will see a line running the length of the fish; cut the salmon fillet lengthwise in half down this line. For this recipe, you will use the wider section of the fillet. Trim it into an even rectangular piece approximately 13 inches long and 3 inches wide and weighing about 1¼ pounds. (Use the extra salmon for tartare or another dish.)
FOR THE CITRUS MARINADE: Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl, stirring with a fork to break up any clumps.
Cut a piece of aluminum foil slightly longer than the fillet. Sprinkle half of the marinade down the center of the foil and spread it into the shape of the fillet. Place the fillet on it and sprinkle the remaining marinade over the fish. Bring the sides of the foil together over the top of the fish and roll the foil down to form a packet. Turn the ends of the foil under the fish and place the packet on a baking sheet. Place a second baking sheet on the fish and weight it lightly. Marinate the salmon in the refrigerator for 3 hours (or about 1 hour for every ¼ inch of the fish fillet’s thickness). Don’t forget your fish; if it marinates for too long, it will be oversalted.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE ORANGE CONFIT: Using a sharp knife, slice off the peel, including all the white pith from the oranges. Working over a bowl, slice between the membranes to remove all the orange segments; discard the membranes.
Bring the simple syrup and white wine vinegar to a boil. Pour over the orange segments and let cool to room temperature (this is called a confit because the syrup stabilizes the oranges). This can be refrigerated for 1 to 2 days. You will need 32 orange sections for this; reserve any extras for another use.
FOR THE PEA SHOOT COULIS: Blanch the pea shoots in 2 to 3 batches (see Big-Pot Blanching) until the stems are completely tender, 6 to 8 minutes. As each batch becomes tender, lift the shoots to a chinois and submerge the chinois in ice water to chill the pea shoots, then drain them.
Place the shoots in a blender with just enough water to allow the blade to turn and blend the mixture. If you need more water, add it by the tablespoon. Scrape the purée through a tamis; you should have ½ to ¾ cup. Place the purée in a small saucepan.
Remove the marinated fish from the foil, rinse off the marinade, and dry the fillet thoroughly. Cut the fillet crosswise into 8 pieces approximately 3 inches by 1½ inches wide. If time allows, let the fish stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to an hour.
To determine how much oil is needed to cook the fish, stand the pieces of fish, on one of their cut sides, in a pan that will hold them in one layer and cover them with olive oil. Remove the pieces of fish and heat the oil to 110°F. Return the salmon pieces to the oil, on their sides, and heat them for about 10 minutes (it will take closer to 13 minutes if the fillets were cold). To test the cooked salmon, remove a piece and bend it slightly. It should begin to flake, but the color should still be almost the color of raw salmon. The fish can remain in the oil slightly longer without overcooking, providing the temperature does not exceed 110°F.; maintain the temperature by placing the pan on a heat diffuser or by moving the pan on and off the heat as necessary. If the temperature of the oil starts to rise, adding a little more oil to the pan will help to lower the heat quickly. When the salmon is cooked, remove the fillets from the pan and drain briefly on paper towels.
TO COMPLETE: Warm the orange sections in the syrup. Bring the pea shoot coulis to a simmer, adding a little chicken stock or water if the sauce is too thick. Once it’s at a simmer, whisk in the butter and salt to taste. Pour the coulis into a sauceboat.
Place 4 warm orange sections side by side to form a rectangle in the center of each serving plate. Spread the chives on a dish and press the tops (cut side) of the salmon pieces in the chives to coat them. Set the fish chive side up over the oranges and garnish the top of each fillet with a small quenelle, or oval scoop, of caviar. Dust each plate with a pinch of citrus powder. At the table, pour about 1 tablespoon of the coulis around each fillet.
pictured here makes 8 servings
Sautéed Cod with Cod Cakes and Parsley Oil
1 side cod (a whole fillet, about 2½ pounds), skin and any bones removed
COD CAKES
12 ounces Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
1 cup crisp, dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 medium shallots, sliced
5 cloves garlic, crushed
6 sprigs thyme
12 black peppercorns
14 ounces reserved cod trimmings (from above)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
5 tablespoons (2½ ounces) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon very finely minced garlic
2 tablespoons Brunoise
2 teaspoons finely chopped Italian parsley
CLAMS
6 littleneck clams, soaked in a few changes of cold water for several hours, drained, and scrubbed with a brush
1 small clove garlic, peeled
½ small shallot, peeled
1 sprig thyme
1 small bay leaf
¼ cup crisp, dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 cup heavy cream
Canola oil
Flour for dusting
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
“CHOWDER”
¼ cup sliced celery (peeled and cut on a diagonal into 1/16-inch slices), blanched until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching), chilled in ice water, and drained
⅓ cup diced peeled Yukon Gold potato (¼-inch dice), boiled untill tender and drained
2 to 3 tablespoons Beurre Monté
½ teaspoon finely minced Italian parsley
1 tablespoon Brunoise
Parsley Oil, in a squeeze bottle
I love cod, because you can do so much with it. I wanted a garnish for a cod fillet that was indigenous to where that cod was from. Thus the New England chowder, and also the cod cakes, which are wonderful all by themselves—I used to serve them as a canapé. They’re based on brandade, which is a traditional French dish of puréed salt cod and potatoes. These cakes are sautéed to develop a perfect crust on the outside and creaminess on the inside. I use them as the pedestal for the fillet, which is sauced with a very elegant “chowder” of celery, potatoes, and clams, and finish the dish with vivid parsley oil.
This recipe will make more cod cakes than you need, but you can store them in the freezer, ready to be used as appetizers or a first course on their own. (If you do not have 14 ounces of trimmings, just reduce the other quantities accordingly.)
FOR THE COD: Trim any darkened areas from the fillet. Cut 6 portions about 2 inches by 3 inches by 1 inch thick (2½ to 3 ounces each) from the fillet. Cut the trimmings into chunks (about 14 ounces total).
FOR THE COD CAKES: Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat, and simmer until tender; drain.
Meanwhile, bring the wine, shallots, garlic, thyme, and peppercorns to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the cod trimmings, cover, and steam the fish for 5 minutes, or until thoroughly cooked. Remove the pieces of fish and drain them on paper towels. Discard the cooking liquid.
Place the hot potatoes and hot fish in a bowl and break them up with a fork until evenly mixed. Add the remaining ingredients one at a time, mixing after each addition. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.
TO ROLL THE LOGS: Put a ¼-inch piece of plastic wrap on a wet counter (this will make rolling the logs easier), place half of the cod mixture on the plastic, and form it into a 2-inch-wide log that is 7 to 8 inches long. Roll the log in the plastic and twist the ends. Tie one end and twist the other tightly to compress the mixture. Repeat to form the second log. Place in the freezer for at least several hours, or up to 2 weeks.
FOR THE CLAMS: Place the clams in a small pot with the garlic, shallot, thyme, bay leaf, and wine. Cover and bring to a boil; remove each clam as soon as it opens. Remove the clams from the shells and reserve. Strain the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and reduce to a glaze (2 to 3 tablespoons). Add the heavy cream and reduce the sauce slowly to about ⅓ to ½ cup.
TO COMPLETE: Preheat the oven to 250°F.
Cut six ¾-inch slices from one cod cake log remove the plastic wrap, and thaw them for about 15 minutes. (Keep the remaining mixture frozen for another time.) Heat ¼ inch of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Dip the cod cakes in flour, pat off any excess, and sauté for about 1½ minutes on each side, or until they are browned and hot throughout. Keep them warm on a baking sheet in the oven.
In a large skillet, heat ¼ inch of oil until hot. Season the cod with salt and white pepper and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Drain briefly on paper towels. Meanwhile, for the “chowder,” in a saucepan, warm the celery and potato cubes with the buerre monté, parsley, brunoise, and reserved clams. Rewarm the sauce over low heat.
Pipe a ring of parsley oil in each serving dish. Fill each ring with about 1 tablespoon of the sauce, top with a cod cake, the sautéed cod, and the “chowder.”
makes 6 servings
CIPOLLINI ONIONS AND SAUCE
6 medium or 12 small cipollini onions (about 6 ounces total)
Canola oil
About 2½ cups Chicken Stock
½ cup Veal Stock
5 sprigs thyme
A ½-inch sprig rue
1 tablespoon honey
Pinch of kosher salt
1 tablespoon Beurre Monté
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
SUCCOTASH
4 ears baby corn
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 cup milk
Kosher salt
18 fava beans, peeled, germ removed, blanched until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching), chilled in ice water, and drained
1 teaspoon diced red bell pepper (peeled and cut into 1/16-inch dice), quickly blanched and drained
1 teaspoon diced yellow bell pepper (peeled and cut into 1/16-inch dice), quickly blanched and drained
½ teaspoon finely minced chives
1 teaspoon Brunoise
2 to 3 tablespoons Beurre Monté
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
HALIBUT
Flour for dusting
6 pieces halibut fillet, 2 inches by 2 inches by ¾ inches (about 3 ounces each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Canola oil
½ to ¾ cup Beurre Monté
6 chive tips (about 1 inch long)
6 small sprigs chervil
One of the reasons I find fish exciting to cook is that it carries garnishes so well. Halibut is a great example. I often serve it with four different preparations of onions, sometimes even with a dusting of onion powder. I use Atlantic halibut because it has a higher fat content and a moister flesh than the Pacific. Here the garnish is succotash with an unusual glaze that originated with my favorite way to cook onions, braising them with the herb rue. Rue is a beautiful gray-green plant that isn’t used often in the kitchen, but it gives a flavor to onions that’s unique—kind of floral with a nutty undertone. Nothing can substitute for its flavor, but in its absence you could use thyme, rosemary, or basil.
FOR THE CIPOLLINI ONIONS: Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Trim the root ends of the onions, leaving the skin on and enough root intact to hold them together. Coat the bottom of a pan wide enough to hold the onions in one layer with 1/16 inch of canola oil. Heat the oil over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the onions root side down. Sear the onions on the root end only until they are a dark golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. (This initial searing will add flavor depth and character to the sauce.) Once the root ends are brown, transfer the onions to a fine strainer to drain any excess oil.
Return the onions, and any brown bits in the strainer, to the pan and add 2 cups of the chicken stock, the veal stock, thyme, rue, honey, and salt. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover with a parchment lid and braise in the oven for 45 minutes, or until the onions are meltingly tender. They should still hold their shape, but there should be no resistance when tested with a paring knife.
When the onions are tender, remove them from the pan. Peel away the skin and any tough outer layers and place the onions in a container. Strain the braising liquid through a fine strainer into a small saucepan. Reduce the liquid slowly for about 15 minutes, until about 6 tablespoons of glaze remain. The liquid should be dark and thick, but if it is too sticky (like syrup or honey), add chicken stock, a tablespoon at a time, to thin it out. Set the sauce aside in the pan.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE SUCCOTASH: Place the baby corn in a small saucepan with the sugar, milk, and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer and poach the corn for 10 to 12 minutes, until tender. There should be very little resistance when the corn is tested with a paring knife, but it must be able to hold its shape without falling apart when cut. Rinse the corn and cut each cob into rondelles, thin rounds of about 1/16 inch.
Combine the baby corn with the fava beans, red and yellow peppers, chives, and brunoise in a saucepan. Add the beurre monté and about 1 teaspoon water to moisten the vegetables and set aside.
TO COMPLETE: For the halibut, place some flour in a dish. Season both sides of the halibut with salt and pepper and lightly coat the skin side with flour, patting off any excess. Heat ⅛ inch of canola oil in a large skillet; the pan should be big enough to hold all six pieces of fish comfortably without overcrowding them. If the fillets touch each other, they will steam rather than sauté, so if your pan is not big enough, use two pans.
Place the fish skin side down in the hot oil and cook for 2 minutes, or until a crisp golden-brown crust forms. Turn the fish and cook for another minute. Halibut should be cooked only to medium, as it has a tendency to dry out. When the fish is done, turn off the heat and coat the pieces on both sides with the beurre monté. Let the fish rest for a couple of minutes, then drain the fillets on a paper towel to absorb excess butter.
Meanwhile, place the onions in a saucepan with the 1 tablespoon beurre monté and just enough chicken stock to come ⅛ inch up the sides of the pan. Heat gently to warm. Reheat the succotash over low heat and season with salt and pepper.
Set the sauce over medium heat. Whisking continuously, add the butter, a tablespoon at a time. Do not let the sauce come to a boil, or the butter will separate and become oily. The sauce is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
Place a spoonful of sauce on each plate. Place 1 medium cipollini onion or 2 small ones on each pool of sauce and place a piece of halibut on top. Spoon the succotash over the fish. Garnish the top of each serving with a chive tip and a sprig of chervil.
makes 6 servings
MUSSEL STOCK
18 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
2 large cloves garlic, peeled
1 large shallot, peeled
4 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 cup crisp, dry white wine, preferably Sauvignon Blanc
SPINACH
Three 2-inch strips orange zest (removed with a vegetable peeler)
¾ teaspoon olive oil
6 ounces spinach, washed and tough stems removed
Kosher salt
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
PARSNIP PURÉE
2 parsnips (about 5 ounces), peeled
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream
½ cup water
Pinch of kosher salt
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
SAFFRON-VANILLA SAUCE
½ vanilla bean, split
Reserved 1 cup mussel stock (from above)
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
1½ teaspoons heavy cream
10 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
BASS
Canola oil
Six 2- by 3-inch pieces black sea bass fillet, (about 6 ounces each) skin on (see Crisping Skin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Black sea bass is an extremely versatile fish because of its neutral flavor and sturdy texture; it allows you to use your imagination in both cooking method and in the combinations of flavors you want. It’s a good fish to cook with the skin on, both for the dramatic visual appeal and for the flavor. This dish is a contrast in textures: the crisp skin on the moist flesh of the fish, and the toasty exterior of the spinach balls surrounding their soft interior. The sauce uses a mussel stock, but not the cooked mussels; the mussels would be delicious served cold with Sauce Gribiche.
FOR THE MUSSEL STOCK: Place the mussels in a pot with the garlic, shallot, thyme, bay leaves, and wine. Cover the pot and bring to a boil; remove each mussel as soon as it opens. Reserve the mussels for another use. Strain the mussel stock through a chinois.
FOR THE SPINACH: Place the strips of orange zest in a large skillet with the olive oil. Heat the oil until it is hot and the zest begins to ripple from the heat. Add the spinach and sprinkle with salt (seasoning the spinach before it wilts ensures even seasoning. Cook the spinach until it wilts, then continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate the moisture. Remove the spinach from the pan and separate it into 6 parts. Take each pile of spinach, place it in a clean tea towel, and twist the towel around the spinach to squeeze out any remaining liquid and form a compact ball. Remove from the towel. Refrigerate the spinach balls until ready to complete the dish.
FOR THE PARSNIP PURÉE: Slice the parsnips lengthwise in half. Beginning at the narrow end, cut ½-inch pieces. When the parsnip half widens, about one third of the way up, split it lengthwise again and continue to cut. (You want to keep the pieces about the same size.)
Place the cut parsnips in a saucepan with 1 cup of the heavy cream, the water, and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the parsnips are completely soft. Strain the parsnips, reserving the cream, and scrape the parsnips through a tamis with a plastic scraper. Put the purée in a bowl and stir in enough of the strained cream to give them the texture of mashed potatoes. Transfer to a small saucepan and keep in a warm place.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
FOR THE SAFFRON-VANILLA SAUCE: Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into a small saucepan and add the vanilla pod, mussel stock, and saffron threads. Bring the stock to a simmer, then simmer until reduced to a glaze (1 to 1½ tablespoons). Add the cream and simmer for a few more seconds. Over medium heat, whisk in the butter bit by bit (as you would for beurre monté). It is critical to maintain the sauce at the correct temperature, as it can break if it becomes too hot or cold. Strain the sauce and mix for several seconds with an immersion blender to emulsify (if you don’t have an immersion blender, you can use a regular one, but rinse out the blender container with hot water before adding the sauce, so it stays warm). Keep the sauce in a warm place.
TO COMPLETE: Melt the 2 teaspoons butter in a small ovenproof skillet and roll the spinach balls around in it. Place the skillet in the oven to warm while you cook the fish.
Heat ⅛ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the fish with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot, add the fish fillets, skin side down. Press a lid or another pan down on the fish to flatten the fillets and keep the skin in direct contact with the skillet. Cook this way for a minute, or until the fish is “set.” Remove the lid and continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until the fillets are almost cooked. Turn the fillets and “kiss” (briefly cook) the flesh side of the fish. Remove the fillets from the pan.
While the fish cooks, reheat the parsnips over low heat and stir in remaining 1 tablespoon cream and the butter.
Place a pool of sauce on each serving plate. Spoon some parsnip purée into the center of the sauce and top the purée with a spinach ball. Set the fish fillets, skin side up, on the spinach and serve.
pictured here makes 6 servings
I love the texture and flavor of perfectly crisped fish skin, and there’s a key step in preparation that ensures proper crisping: getting as much moisture out of the skin before cooking as possible. Skin will not crisp, obviously, if there’s water in it. Skin that is too moist will take a long time to crisp, and you will overcook your fish.
The way we prepare the fish is to take the blade of a knife and drag it over the skin, pressing down gently but firmly to force the water to the surface, then pulling the knife back over the skin to squeegee off the water. Repeat this pressing and scraping until you’ve gotten as much water out of the fish skin as possible. This will allow you to achieve crisp fish skin without overcooking the flesh.
ARTICHOKE RAVIOLI
1 recipe Artichokes Barigoule
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 sheets Pasta Dough for ravioli
1 large egg yolk, beaten for egg wash
Cornmeal for dusting ravioli
VEGETABLE GARNISH
36 carrot batons (sweet bunch carrots cut 1 inch by ¼ inch by ¼ inch)
12 white pearl onions, peeled and trimmed of their root ends
12 red pearl onions, peeled and trimmed of their root end
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons tomato diamonds
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
¼ cup Beurre Monté
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
BARIGOULE VINAIGRETTE
Reserved braising liquid from Artichokes Barigoule (above), strained
½ cup chopped shallots
⅓ cup chopped garlic
3 cups dry white wine
½ teaspoon sherry vinegar
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
BASS
Canola oil
6 thick square pieces striped bass fillet (about 3 ounces each), skin on (see On Crisping Skin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Basil Oil, in a squeeze bottle
6 sprigs chervil
There’s nothing quite like the meaty quality of striped bass. You can crisp the skin well without overcooking the flesh. The vinaigrette for this dish is made from a reduction of the Artichokes Barigoule liquid, so it’s intense and brilliantly flavored.
FOR THE ARTICHOKE RAVIOLI: Cut 18 slices about 1 inch long from 2 of the artichoke hearts and set aside for the garnish.
Chop enough of the remaining artichoke hearts to make a generous ¾ cup. Mix together with the salt, pepper, and olive oil. Strain all the barigoule braising liquid and reserve.
Place a sheet of pasta dough on a lightly floured surface. Brush the surface of the dough with egg wash. Mark 12 circles in the dough with the dull side of a 2-inch round cutter, leaving at least ½ inch between them. Center 1 tablespoon of the artichoke filling in a mound on each circle. Line up one end of the second sheet of dough along one end of the dough and carefully drape the pasta sheet over the filling, pressing down between the mounds of artichoke. Run your fingers around each mound of filling to press out any air bubbles. Using the very tip of a paring knife, gently poke a hole in each ravioli toward the bottom of the filling (this will help any steam that builds up during cooking escape). Using a 2¼-inch fluted round cutter, cut out the 12 ravioli. You will need 6 ravioli for this dish; the rest can be frozen for future use.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, lightly dust it with cornmeal, and place the ravioli on it. If they are to be used within a few hours, cover lightly and refrigerate. For longer storage, they can be frozen on the baking sheet, then removed and stored in plastic bags; cook them while still frozen.
FOR THE VEGETABLE GARNISH: Place the carrot batons in a small saucepan, add lightly salted cold water to cover, and bring to a boil. Cook the carrots for about 3 minutes, or until they are tender; drain in a strainer and chill in an ice-water bath. Drain again, dry the carrots on paper towels, and set aside.
Place the white and red pearl onions in two separate small saucepans with water to cover by ½ inch. Add ½ teaspoon of the sugar and 1 teaspoon of the butter to each pan. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and cook for 12 to 14 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated and the onions are glazed. Be careful not to scorch the onions as the liquid reduces. At the end of cooking, add the red wine vinegar to the red pearl onions to help maintain their color. Set aside.
FOR THE BARIGOULE VINAIGRETTE: Skim any fat from the top of the strained braising liquid; you should have about 4 cups of liquid. Place the shallots, garlic, and white wine in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the liquid for about 15 minutes or until the pan is almost dry. Add the barigoule liquid and cook for about 30 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced to about 1 cup.
Strain the liquid into a small saucepan and discard the shallots and garlic. Continue to reduce the liquid until it is reduced and syrupy (about ⅓ cup). Strain the reduction into a blender and add the vinegar. Turn the motor on and slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Season to taste; the vinaigrette should have a nice tart flavor. Set the vinaigrette aside in a warm spot for a few hours. Any extra vinaigrette can be refrigerated and used in salads.
TO COMPLETE: For the bass, heat about ⅛ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the skin side of the fish with salt and sprinkle the other side with salt and white pepper. Place the fish skin side down in the hot oil, turn down the heat to medium and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, pressing down on the pieces with a spatula to crisp the skin, until the fish is almost cooked. Turn the fish over and cook on the second side for a minute to finish the cooking. “Kiss,” or cook very briefly, the sides of the fish in the hot oil just to set. Lay the fish skin side up in the pan, pour off the oil from the pan, and add the butter. Cover the pan and let the fish cook for another 30 seconds, then remove the pan from the heat and let the bass steam, still covered, for 3 to 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water for 5 to 6 minutes, or until cooked through. Remove from the pot and drain.
Warm the reserved artichoke slices, carrots, pearl onions, tomato diamonds, parsley, and beurre monté in a small saucepan. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
Check the consistency of the vinaigrette; if it is too thick, stir in a small amount of hot water.
Squeeze a 2-inch ring of basil oil onto the center of each plate. Fill the center of each with a spoonful of the vinaigrette. Top the vinaigrette with an inverted ravioli (rounded side down). Place a piece of fish on the ravioli and top the bass with the vegetables and sprigs of chervil.
pictured here makes 6 servings
RADISH SALAD
3 tablespoons finely julienned scallion (about 1 inch long)
3 tablespoons finely julienned sweet bunch carrot (about 1 inch long)
3 tablespoons finely julienned radish (about 1 inch long)
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Lemon oil (see Sources)
ORANGE GLAZE
2 cups fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
¼ teaspoon soy sauce
SOYBEANS
¼ cup (3 ounces) shelled fresh soybeans, blanched for about 8 minutes, or until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching), chilled in ice water, and drained
1 tablespoon tomato diamonds
2 teaspoons Brunoise
3 tablespoons Beurre Monté
MOI
Canola oil
Six 3½- by 1-inch pieces moi fillet, skin on (see On Crisping Skin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
On a recent trip to Hawaii, I found three exciting new foods to introduce to our kitchen. Two of them, moi and fresh green soybeans, are combined in this dish. (The third was fresh hearts of palm.) Moi is a white fish with a lot of fat in it, which is unusual.
In putting this dish together—one of my few nods to Asian cuisine—I wanted to support the integrity of the dish by using other products indigenous to the area where the fish is caught. The fresh green soybeans we found there were amazing. Fresh soybeans come three to a pod and are a little smaller and a little fatter than fava beans, with a slightly more assertive flavor. (They may not be easy to find—sometimes you’ll see them at farmers’ or Asian markets.) And I finished this dish of Hawaiian items with a Polynesian-inspired orange-based glaze with soy sauce. I use temple oranges because they’re very sweet and have a deep orange color, but you can use other oranges.
If you can’t get moi, you might substitute pompano or pike.
FOR THE SALAD: About 1 hour before serving, place the julienned scallion, carrot, and radish in a bowl of ice water. The scallions will curl and the chilling will enable the vegetables to hold a tighter nest.
FOR THE ORANGE GLAZE: Place the orange juice in a small saucepan and reduce over medium heat to a thick glaze (about ⅓ cup). Set aside.
FOR THE SOYBEANS: Combine the soybeans, tomato diamonds, brunoise, and beurre monté in a pan and heat over low heat. Keep warm.
TO COMPLETE: Heat the orange glaze to a simmer and whisk in the butter piece by piece. Add the soy sauce and keep the glaze warm.
Drain the iced vegetables and toss them with the chives and a small amount of lemon oil.
FOR THE MOI: Heat about ⅛ inch of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Season the fish with salt and white pepper. Add the moi fillets skin side down and cook for 2 to 2½ minutes, occasionally pressing down on the pieces with a spatula to help brown the skin. Flip the fillets and “kiss” (just briefly cook) the other side, then remove the moi from the pan.
Place 2 to 3 teaspoons of the orange glaze in the center of each plate. Place about 1 tablespoon of the soybean mixture in the center of the glaze, allowing it to spread into the glaze. Place the moi skin side up over the beans. Gently place a small pile of the crisp salad on one end of each moi fillet and serve.
makes 6 servings
1 part carrots, sliced lengthwise on a mandoline into 1/16-inch-thick strips
1 part turnips, sliced lengthwise on a mandoline into 1/16-inch-thick strips
½ part leek greens (dark green part)
Brunoise, what we call our tiny dice of staple vegetables, is used often as a garnish at the French Laundry. Rather than making a small quantity, make a large batch and freeze it.
Cut all the vegetables into 1/16-inch julienne strips and then cut across to make 1/16-inch dice.
Blanch each vegetable separately in lightly salted boiling water to set the color and soften the vegetables. For small amounts of vegetables, it’s easiest to place the vegetables in a strainer and submerge the strainer in the boiling water. When the vegetables are cooked, lift out the strainer and plunge it into ice water for a few seconds to chill the vegetables and set the color. Then lift out the strainer and place the vegetables on paper towels to drain.
When all the vegetables are blanched and drained, mix them together in a covered container and refrigerate for up to a day. For longer storage, spread the drained brunoise on a tray and place the tray in the freezer until frozen. Store the frozen brunoise in a well-sealed plastic bag in the freezer. You can use the brunoise directly from the freezer in recipes where it is warmed before serving.
pictured here
Red Mullet with a Palette d’Ail Doux and Garlic Chips
PALETTE
2 large or 3 medium heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled (3½ ounces)
5 hard-boiled egg yolks
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Kosher salt to taste
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs; see Sources) or dry bread crumbs, finely ground in a blender and sifted through a strainer
PARSLEY COULIS
3 to 4 large bunches (12 ounces) Italian parsley
1 tablespoon Beurre Monté
Kosher salt to taste
RED MULLET
Canola oil
12 red mullet fillets, skin on (see On Crisping Skin)
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
PARSLEY SALAD
¼ cup small Italian parsley leaves
1 teaspoon finely minced shallot
Extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of kosher salt
About 36 Garlic Chips (recipe follows)
FOR THE PALETTE: Place the garlic in a small saucepan with cold water to cover and bring to a boil. Drain the garlic in a small strainer, cool under cold water, and repeat the process. Repeat a third time, but this time boil the garlic cloves until they are soft and there is no resistance when they are pierced with a small knife. Drain the garlic cloves, mash them slightly, and measure out ¼ cup for the palette.
Place the garlic purée, egg yolks, butter, and salt in a mini-food processor and blend until smooth. Line a small pan with plastic wrap and spread the mixture in it, in a ½-inch-thick layer. Cover and freeze for several hours, until the mixture is solid, or up to a few days.
Cut six 1½-inch disks from the frozen garlic mixture. Place the flour, cream, and crumbs in three separate dishes. Dip each disk into the flour, patting off any excess, then completely coat with cream and dredge in the crumbs, being careful to coat each round completely. Redip a second time in the cream and crumbs and return the palettes to the freezer.
FOR THE PARSLEY COULIS: Discard the tough stems from the parsley. You should have about 4 packed cups of leaves and tender stems. Blanch the parsley (see Big-Pot Blanching) until tender and remove to a bowl of ice water.
Once the parsley is cold, drain it and squeeze the excess water from the leaves. Place the parsley in a blender with just enough water to allow the mixture to turn. Blend the parsley to a purée. Spread the purée on a tamis and allow to sit for 5 minutes to drain any excess liquid. Discard the liquid and pass the purée through the tamis. You should have about ½ cup of purée. It can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.
TO COMPLETE: Heat about ⅛ inch of canola oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat (there should be enough oil to come about halfway up the sides of the fish). Season the red mullet with salt and white pepper, add the fillets skin side down and sauté, pressing down on the pieces of fish with a narrow spatula or small skillet to keep them flat. When the fish is almost cooked, after about 1 minute, turn the pieces to “kiss,” or briefly cook, the second side. The total cooking time will be about 1½ minutes. Remove the fillets to paper towels to drain.
Add the frozen palettes to the pan and brown for about 1 minute on each side, until crisp and warmed through.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE PARSLEY SALAD: Toss the parsley leaves and shallots with a light coating of olive oil and the salt.
Place the parsley purée in a small saucepan and rewarm it. Check the consistency: It should be that of a sauce. If it is too thick, thin it with a little water; if it is too thin, simmer briefly (heat can cause the purée to change color, so cook it as little as possible). Stir in the beurre monté and season with salt to taste.
Place a spoonful of the parsley coulis on each serving plate. Center a palette on the sauce and crisscross two red mullet fillets, skin side up, over each one. Top with a stack of parsley salad and garlic chips and serve immediately.
pictured here makes 6 servings
Garlic cloves
Cold milk
Canola oil for deep-frying
The unexpected thing about garlic chips is their crispness, something you don’t normally associate with garlic. Blanching the garlic cloves in milk leaches out some of the bitterness and makes them sweeter. As chips, garlic doesn’t become so forward that you’re living with it for the rest of the night.
Slice the garlic cloves as thin as possible on a mandoline. Place the slices in a small saucepan and cover with cold milk. Bring the milk to a boil, then drain the garlic slices in a strainer (discard the milk) and rinse them under cold water. Return the slices to the pan and repeat the process three times, using fresh milk each time. Pat the garlic slices dry on paper towels.
Heat the oil in a deep saucepan to 300°F. Add the slices to the hot oil and fry for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the bubbles around the chips have subsided (signifying that all the moisture has evaporated) and they are a light golden brown. Drain the garlic chips on paper towels. Store airtight at room temperature for 1 to 2 days.
The red mullet is gratifying to make, and eat, over and over again. What makes it work is not just the flavors of all the elements, but also the way they look together—the red of the mullet against the bright green parsley coulis against the leaves of the parsley salad, the brown of the fried palettes, the way the garlic chips shimmer. Palette refers to the shape (a disk) of the ail doux, or sweet garlic mixture. For me, this dish is as close to perfect as it gets.
BRAISED RED CABBAGE
¾ pound red cabbage
¾ cup dry red wine
1 tablespoon duck fat, unsalted butter, or canola oil
½ cup diced (¼-inch) red onion
¼ cup finely grated Granny Smith apple
¼ cup White Veal Stock, Vegetable Stock, or water
2 teaspoons honey, preferably wildflower honey
½ cup finely grated peeled russet potato
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
MUSTARD SAUCE
Canola oil
¼ cup chopped leek
¼ cup chopped mushrooms
3 tablespoons chopped carrot
½ cup Veal Stock
1 tablespoon heavy cream
10 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
1½ teaspoons grainy mustard
1 tablespoon Brunoise
2 teaspoons finely minced chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
SKATE
1½ pounds skate wing, skin removed, trimmed of cartilage and any red areas (have the fishmonger remove the skin)
Flour for dusting
Canola oil
Kosher salt
I like skate because of its ropy texture. It’s an easy fish to cook, because it doesn’t fall apart when cooked at higher temperatures, and you thus have great opportunity for crispness. I use spotted, as opposed to red or gray, because it is a smaller fish, with a more compact texture.
FOR THE BRAISED RED CABBAGE: Remove the thick ribs from the cabbage and cut the leaves into chiffonade, long narrow strips about ¼ inch wide. Place the cabbage and red wine in a large bowl, toss together, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a deep ovenproof pan, warm the duck fat over medium-low heat. Add the red onion and cook gently until it begins to release its liquid, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cabbage and the marinating liquid, the apples, and stock. Cover with a parchment lid, place in the oven, and cook for about 2 hours, until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Remove the pan from the oven, add the honey and potato, and stir well to combine. If the cabbage seems dry, add ¼ cup of water. Re-cover with the parchment paper and return to the oven for an additional 30 to 45 minutes, or until the cabbage and potatoes are tender and have a noticeable creaminess. There will be approximately 1½ cups of cabbage. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The cabbage can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
FOR THE MUSTARD SAUCE: Heat a film of canola oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, mushrooms, and carrots and sauté, stirring often, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the vegetables are lightly caramelized. Add the veal stock and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced to a glace. Remove from the heat and set aside.
FOR THE SKATE: Cut the skate into 6 rectangular portions (about 3 ounces each). The pieces should be about 3 inches by 4 inches, but the actual size will depend on the thickness and size of the skate wing; if the piece is very thin, you may need to cut larger pieces and fold them over.
TO COMPLETE: Stir the cream into the mustard sauce and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the butter piece by piece, adding another piece only once the previous piece has been incorporated. Strain the sauce through a chinois into a small saucepan. Whisk in both mustards, the brunoise, and chives. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm.
Reheat the red cabbage over low heat.
Heat ⅛ inch of canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly dust each portion of skate with flour, patting off any excess, and place in the hot oil. Season the fish with salt and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, basting the skate occasionally with the oil, until the fish is golden brown on the first side. Turn the fillets and cook on the second side for another minute, or until the fish is opaque throughout (cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the pieces).
Place a spoonful of the sauce on each serving plate. Top with the red cabbage and skate. Sprinkle a line of mustard powder down one side of each plate and serve immediately.
makes 6 servings
Sautéed Monkfish Tail with Braised Oxtails, Salsify, and Cèpes
BRAISED OXTAILS
5 pounds oxtails, cut into 1½-inch-thick pieces
1 recipe Red Wine Marinade
Flour for dredging
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil
1 quart Veal Stock, heated
1 quart Chicken Stock, heated, or hot water
¼ cup Brunoise
½ cup tomato diamonds
Few drops white wine vinegar
¼ cup Beurre Monté
SALSIFY AND CÈPES
4 salsify (about 8 ounces), peeled
1 lemon, halved
3 cups Chicken Stock
2 sprigs thyme
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
Canola oil
16 small cèpes (porcinis), cleaned and sliced about ¼ inch thick, or 16 shiitakes, stems removed, caps cleaned and sliced about ¼ inch thick
1 tablespoon Brunoise
1 teaspoon chopped Italian parsley
1 tablespoon Beurre Monté
MONKFISH
Canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
8 monkfish medallions about 1 inch thick (about 2 ounces each)
2 tablespoons Beurre Monté
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
Here, the monkfish is so solid and substantial that it can support the richness of the oxtails, and the combination of fish and rich braised meat results in a very earthy dish.
Searing the meat, then slow-cooking it to extract its flavors and those of the vegetables into the braising liquid results in a “falling off the bone” tenderness and meat that melts in your mouth.
Monkfish has a high tolerance for cooking—if you inadvertently overcook it, it won’t be catastrophic—and when the fish hits perfect doneness, it tends to hang there for a while, giving you some leeway in its cooking time.
FOR THE BRAISED OXTAILS: Divide the oxtails between two resealable plastic bags and add half the marinade to each of them. Seal the bags and place them in the refrigerator for 18 to 20 hours, turning them once or twice to distribute the marinade.
The next day, transfer the meat to one container and the vegetables to another. Strain the marinade through a towel-lined sieve into a saucepan. (This is the first step in the clarification process, to obtain a clean, clear sauce. Pouring it through the towel removes some of the blood and other impurities that could cloud the liquid. Do not wring out the towel; the impurities would be forced back into the liquid.) Slowly heat the marinade to a simmer. (Heating the liquid will coagulate the remaining blood proteins, but heating too quickly may pull the impurities back into the liquid rather than separating them.) Skim and discard the impurities and other particles as they rise to the surface. Remove from the heat.
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Place the flour in a dish. Pat the oxtails dry and dredge them in the flour just to coat. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Heat ¼ inch of oil in a large deep pot over medium heat. (The amount of oil may seem excessive, but it will keep the meat from burning and sticking to the pan. The meat will absorb only a certain amount of oil and if you don’t use enough, the flour may burn and impart a bitter flavor.) Add the oxtails to the hot oil, in batches if necessary, and sear them on one side until they reach a rich deep brown color. Do not burn the flour, but allow the oxtails to brown before attempting to move them around. Then sear the meat on all sides, turning occasionally; even browning will add color and flavor to the braising liquid. Once the oxtails are completely browned, remove them from the pot. Drain the oil from the pan, leaving any little crusty particles on the bottom of the pan.
Add the reserved vegetables from the marinade to the pot. Scrape the “glaze” from the bottom of the pot and cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, to release their moisture, 3 to 4 minutes. Then cook until the moisture has evaporated and the pot is reglazed.
Deglaze the pot by adding the clarified marinating liquid and stirring again. Reduce until most of the marinating liquid has evaporated. (Reglazing the pot adds yet another layer of color and intensity of flavor.) Add the hot stocks. (The veal stock is the flavor base of the braising liquid and the chicken stock or water will thin the veal stock enough for such long cooking.) Add the meat to the pot and cover with a parchment lid. Bring the liquid back to a simmer and place in the oven to braise for 3½ to 4 hours. When the meat is cooked, it will be falling off the bone and completely tender. At this point, the oxtails can be used immediately or cooled to room temperature and then refrigerated for up to 4 days.
Remove the oxtails from the liquid, and when they are cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones. The yield will depend on the cut of the oxtails; some sections have a great deal more meat than others. You will need 2 cups of meat for this recipe; extra meat can be reserved for another use.
Strain the braising liquid through a China cap or strainer and let it sit for 10 minutes to give the fat a chance to separate and rise to the top. Remove the fat, place the remaining liquid in a medium saucepan, and simmer to reduce. When the pan seems too large for the amount of liquid, strain the sauce through a chinois into a smaller saucepan, without forcing any particles through the sieve. Continue to reduce the sauce until it is 1 to 1½ cups. Strain a final time into a saucepan and add the reserved 2 cups of meat. Set aside.
FOR THE SALSIFY: Place the salsify in a saucepan. Squeeze in the lemon juice and add the lemon halves along with the stock, 1 sprig of thyme, and the garlic. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the salsify is tender, drain.
Cut the salsify pieces lengthwise in half and then cut them on the bias into 1-inch-long pieces.
TO COMPLETE: Heat the butter in a medium skillet until hot. Add the salsify pieces and the remaining sprig of thyme and cook, tossing occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until nicely browned. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, heat a film of oil in another medium skillet and sauté the cèpes until they are well browned. Add them to the salsify.
Heat ⅛ inch of oil in a large skillet. Season the monkfish with salt and white pepper, add to the pan, and sauté over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes, then turn the medallions to cook for an additional 2 minutes. Add the 2 tablespoons beurre monté to the pan, baste the fish, and add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley.
Meanwhile, add brunoise, tomato diamonds, vinegar, and the ¼ cup beurre monté to the oxtails and warm through. Add the brunoise, parsley, and beurre monté to the salsify and cèpes, and warm through.
Place a spoonful of the oxtails in the center of each plate. Top each with a monkfish medallion and garnish the top with the salsify and cèpes. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped parsley.
makes 8 servings
We do a lot of “surf-and-turf” dishes in which we pair meat and fish—lobster with foie gras, lobster with veal, scallops with cockscombs. It is important that the textures don’t overwhelm each other—both the oxtails and the monkfish are meaty. The braised oxtails provides the red wine sauce that classically pairs with white fish.
