Fresh truffles are becoming available in more specialty stores, and they’re being grown with varying degrees of success in many countries, but none matches those found in France and Italy. It’s important to use enough truffles. Offering just one slice is wasteful, because you don’t get its full impact. Truffles have a short season. The best black ones come from France; I buy large quantities of them in season, poach them in mushroom stock, and freeze them for when we need them. The very best white truffles are from Alba. Only use them fresh. If you need to store them, don’t use rice, as some experts advise—it dries them out; instead, keep them in an airtight container wrapped with a moist towel. Truffles grow in clay-based soil and must be carefully scrubbed in warm water.
POTATO PURÉE
1¼ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
1 cup heavy cream, warmed
10 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 6 pieces
½ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
MUSHROOM RAGOUT
12 ounces assorted small potatoes in a variety of shapes and colors (for example, 3 ounces each French Fingerling, Red Russian Fingerling, purple Peruvian, and marble potatoes)
1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
1¼ cups Truffle-Infused Mushroom Stock or ¾ cup Mushroom Stock plus ½ cup truffle juice (see Sources)
¼ teaspoon white wine vinegar
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 4 chunks
2 tablespoons Brunoise
1½ tablespoons finely minced black truffle
1 tablespoon minced chives
2 tablespoons white truffle oil
Freshly ground black pepper
This dish combines several different potato preparations—sliced small, served in a bed of mashed potatoes, with chopped truffles, a truffle sauce, and crispy truffle potato chips. The contrast of textures—creamy, firm, crunchy—makes the ordinary extraordinary.
The hardest part of this dish is the mashed potatoes; in some ways, it may be the most difficult recipe here, because there are so many small choices that have a big impact. First, you should cook the potatoes in their jackets so that the water doesn’t penetrate into the meat. You must cook them in the right amount of water at the right temperature, a gentle heat, so they don’t burst open; don’t just throw the potatoes in a pot and boil the life out of them. Then let the excess moisture steam off after boiling and pass the potatoes through the tamis while they’re still hot. Finally, you must emulsify the butter and cream into them without breaking that emulsification, knowing exactly how much butter and cream you can get into them—and then knowing how to get even more in! There’s a great lesson in this recipe: how to pay attention to the details of what we think is a simple preparation.
FOR THE POTATO PURÉE: Place the Yukon Gold potatoes in a pot with enough water to cover them by at least 4 inches. Bring to a boil and boil gently until the potatoes are tender and offer no resistance when poked with a knife, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on their size. Drain the potatoes and return to the empty pot over medium heat for a minute to steam off excess moisture.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE MUSHROOM RAGOUT: Cut the assorted potatoes (do not peel them) into pieces approximately the same size so that their cooking times will be the same: Cut small round potatoes in half and then into 1/16-inch half circles. Long narrow potatoes can be cut into small circles of the same thickness, and larger potatoes may need to be quartered lengthwise before they are sliced. There will be about 3 cups of sliced potatoes.
Place the potato slices in a strainer and rinse them under cold water. Place them in a pot with 1 teaspoon salt and cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes for 2 to 3 minutes, or until just tender. Drain in a strainer, rinse the potatoes carefully under cold water, and set aside.
Bring the truffle-infused mushroom stock (or the mushroom stock and truffle juice) and vinegar to a simmer in a medium saucepan and let reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in the butter, one piece at a time, then add the cooked potato slices and simmer until the stock thickens to a sauce consistency (vinegar helps prevent root vegetables such as potatoes from overcooking). Add the brunoise, black truffle, and chives and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm over very low heat.
TO FINISH THE POTATO PURÉE: This recipe involves an exacting technique for achieving the perfect potato purée. Special care must be taken to maintain a low temperature while emulsifying the potatoes, butter, and cream. If the temperature becomes too high, the butter will melt as it is added and the potatoes will become oily. You will need to remain with the potatoes throughout the cooking process.
Peel the hot potatoes, pass them through a tamis, and place the purée in a heavy pot. Stir in the salt and beat with a wooden spoon over low heat to dry them out slightly. Add the cream and butter a little at a time, alternating them and beating vigorously the entire time. The purée should be holding to the sides of the pan and will be stiffer and more difficult to mix than traditional mashed potatoes. If it does not hold, and forms a ball around the spoon, your pan may be too hot. Should this happen, remove the pan from the heat and beat in a small amount of water to return the potatoes to the proper consistency. Then lower the heat, return the pan to the heat, and continue adding the cream and butter. Serve the potatoes as soon as possible.
TO COMPLETE: Stir the white truffle oil into the ragout. Season the potato purée with additional salt if needed and pepper to taste. Spoon some purée into each serving bowl. Make a well in the center and fill with the potato ragout. Garnish each portion with 2 truffle potato chips.
makes 8 servings
4 ounces summer truffles, or winter (black) truffles
3 cups Mushroom Stock
Fresh raw truffles are excellent if you use them right away, but poaching and freezing them allows you to buy larger quantities when they are in season and store them for future use. A great side benefit is that you’re left with a wonderful truffle-infused mushroom stock. The flavor will depend on the quality of the truffle used. Don’t expect robust flavors when using summer truffles. The stock will keep frozen for six months.
With a mushroom brush, nailbrush, or small scrub brush, carefully scrub the dirt from the truffles under warm water. (If it is not completely removed, it will stick to the truffles as they poach and because it is so fine, you will not be able to strain the dirt from the stock.) Place the cleaned truffles in a small pot. Strain the mushroom stock through a chinois over the truffles. Discard what remains in the chinois. Cover the truffles with a small plate or lid to keep them submerged in the liquid.
Heat the stock slowly to a gentle simmer and poach the truffles for 20 minutes. Remove the truffles to a small bowl and strain enough stock over to just cover. Strain the remaining stock into a separate container.
Cool in the refrigerator, then place the stock and truffles with their stock in plastic containers or resealable bags in the freezer.
makes about 2½ cups (plus the truffles)
PART 1
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons minced onions (minced smaller than the grains of rice)
1 cup Carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
2 cups Chicken Stock, Vegetable Stock, Mushroom Stock, or water, heated to a simmer (for risotto with white truffles, use 1 cup chicken stock and 1 cup water)
PART 2
2 to 2½ cups Chicken Stock, Vegetable Stock, Mushroom Stock, or water, heated to a simmer (for risotto with white truffles, use 1¼ cups chicken stock and 1¼ cups water)
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
5 tablespoons (2½ ounces) unsalted butter
¾ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
3 tablespoons white truffle oil (for risotto with white truffles)
Fresh white truffle (optional)
The best rice for risotto is grown in Italy’s Po Valley. You can use Arborio rice, but Carnaroli results in risotto with the creamiest consistency.
If you don’t have truffles, the basic risotto could be topped with Braised Oxtails, a mushroom ragout, or a variety of accompaniments. Base the liquid used in preparing the risotto on the finished dish. For example, use chicken stock when you are serving meat, or vegetable stock for an asparagus garnish. Risotto normally requires a cook’s undivided attention over a long period of time. This two-part method allows you to begin the rice preparation the day before and makes the final cooking time less than ten minutes. The dish should be served as soon as it is completed.
PART 1: Heat the oil in a deep heavy sauté pan over medium heat. Stir in the onions and cook slowly until softened and translucent but not browned. Mix in the rice and stir for 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the wine and let it simmer, without stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. (After adding the wine, lean close to the pan and breathe in the aroma. You will be able to smell and feel the raw alcohol at the back of your nose. Breathe it in several times during the cooking process, and as the alcohol evaporates and the rice begins to toast, the raw alcohol smell will dissipate and be replaced with the smell of toasted rice.) When the liquid has been absorbed, begin stirring to “toast” the rice. The rice should not brown, but it will separate into individual grains, looking much as it did before the wine was added. Scrape the bottom of the pan to keep the rice from sticking. The alcohol smell should be completely gone. Increase the heat and add the stock; it should just cover the rice. When it boils, reduce the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Drain the rice, discarding any remaining liquid. Spread the rice in a 9- by 13-inch pan or other similar-size container, cover, and refrigerate for several hours, or up to a day.
PART 2: Put the rice in a sauté pan, add ½ cup of the stock and the salt, and stir over high heat until the liquid begins to simmer; it should continue to simmer throughout the cooking. As the stock evaporates, add ½ cup more. Continue to cook, adding more stock as it evaporates and tasting the rice from time to time. The finished rice will be similar to al dente pasta; it should be thoroughly cooked but with a little “bite” remaining to it, never mushy. When the rice is cooked, let whatever liquid remains in the pan evaporate (you may not use all the stock called for).
Remove the risotto from the heat and, using a wooden spoon, beat in the butter a little at time, working quickly so it will “emulsify” with the rice (creating a creamy risotto) rather than melt into the risotto. Vigorously beat in the whipped cream, cheese, salt to taste, and the white truffle oil, if using. Divide among serving bowls. Place shavings of white truffle, if using, over the top of the risotto: The truffle can be shaved over the risotto at the table if you have a truffle slicer, or it can be sliced in the kitchen on a mandoline and then scattered over the risotto. Serve immediately.
pictured here makes 6 to 8 servings
Because the white truffle is such an extraordinary gift, and because the season—roughly October through December—is so short, you want to treat it as simply as possible, as we do in this classic Piedmontese risotto. I learned the technique of folding whipped cream into risotto from Alain Ducasse. Though the cream does “melt” out of its whipped state, it coats all the individual grains more easily than it would unwhipped. Always add your fat at the end, with the pan off the heat.
2 pounds russet potatoes
1¼ to 1½ cups all-purpose flour
3 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to taste
This recipe yields more gnocchi than are needed for a single recipe, but their versatility makes them an ideal item to have on hand. Use them as a garnish or serve them as a meal. We serve small gnocchi, but they can be shaped larger if desired. Part of what makes this a great recipe is that the gnocchi freeze so well, and they go directly from the freezer into boiling water so they’re always at the ready.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Bake the potatoes for 1 hour, or until they are completely cooked.
Split the potatoes, scoop out the flesh, and press it through a potato ricer. Place the hot potatoes on a board or counter. Make a well in the center. Place a layer of about ½ cup flour in the well, add the egg yolks, then add about ½ cup more flour and the salt. Use a dough scraper to “chop” the potatoes into the flour and eggs. This process should be done quickly (15 to 30 seconds), as overworking the dough will make the gnocchi heavy and sticky. Add more flour as necessary. The resulting dough should be homogeneous and barely sticky on the outside. Shape the dough into a ball.
Roll the ball of dough lightly in flour. Pull off a section of the dough and roll it by hand on a lightly floured surface into a “snake” about ½ inch thick. Cut into ½-inch pieces and, using your hand, roll each piece into a ball. Then roll the balls on a gnocchi paddle or over the back of a fork to create an oval shape with indentations. Test one gnocchi by placing it in a large pot of rapidly boiling lightly salted water. It is cooked as soon as it floats to the surface. Taste for seasoning and texture and add salt to the dough if necessary, or add a bit more flour if the gnocchi seems mushy. Continue forming the remaining gnocchi, placing them on a lightly floured tray until ready to cook.
Place the gnocchi in the boiling water. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to remove them to a bowl of ice water as they rise to the surface. Once they have cooled (about 2 minutes) drain them briefly on paper towels or a kitchen towel. Lay them in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Store in the pan in the refrigerator if they will be used shortly (up to a day), or place them in the freezer. Once they are frozen, they can be stored in well-sealed plastic bags and kept frozen for several weeks; cook them while they are still frozen. Sauté the gnocchi as directed just before serving.
makes about 20 dozen small gnocchi
SALMON
3 cups milk, or more as needed
1 pound center-cut smoked salmon fillet (see Sources), trimmed and cut into 6 squares 2 inches by 2 inches by ¾ inch
GNOCCHI
2 tablespoons canola oil
36 Potato Gnocchi (do not thaw if frozen)
¾ cup Chicken Stock
Few drops white wine vinegar
4½ tablespoons (2¼ ounces), salted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1 tablespoon Brunoise
1 tablespoon tomato diamonds
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
GREENS
½ cup assorted baby beet, arugula, and/or any other bitter greens
¾ teaspoon very finely minced shallot
Lemon oil (see Sources)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chive Oil, in a squeeze bottle
Balsamic Glaze, in a squeeze bottle
In this dish, smoked salmon—typically served cold—is heated in milk and served warm. Take care not to let the milk get too hot—you don’t want to poach the salmon or allow its color to change. The milk leaches salt from the flesh, which allows one to serve the fish warm and to keep the integrity of the smoky cured flavor without overpowering the dish with salt. As with bacon, I prefer a fruitwood smoke to a hardwood smoke for the salmon because it’s sweeter.
FOR THE SALMON: In a saucepan just large enough to hold the salmon pieces in one layer, warm the milk to 115°F. Add the salmon. The pieces should be fully submerged in the milk. Warm the salmon for about 7 minutes over very low heat, not allowing the temperature to exceed 115°F. If the temperature begins to climb, remove the pan from the heat, or add additional cold milk to lower the temperature. If the salmon overheats, it will poach and thereby lose its beautiful translucent orange color and turn a more opaque, less vibrant color.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE GNOCCHI: In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat only until fragrant. Pour off the excess oil, leaving only enough to coat the pan. Toss in the gnocchi and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom. Add the chicken stock, vinegar, and butter and let it simmer for a few minutes to reduce to a sauce-like consistency. Add the brunoise, tomato diamonds, chopped chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat.
FOR THE GREENS: In a bowl, mix the baby greens with the shallot. Lightly dress with a little lemon oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.
TO COMPLETE: Squeeze a ring of chive oil onto each plate. Arrange 6 gnocchi, with some of the sauce, in the center of each ring of chive oil. Place a piece of salmon on the gnocchi, twist a small bunch of greens in the palm of your hand so that they cling together, and set on top of the salmon. Squeeze dots of the balsamic glaze in a line down either side of each plate, creating spots that go from larger to smaller in size. Connect the dots with additional chive oil if you wish.
makes 6 servings
CUCUMBER JELLY
½ small cucumber, peeled
1¼ gelatin sheets, soaked in cold water to soften
1 cup cucumber juice (from about 1 pound cucumbers, unpeeled, put through a juicer and strained; or purchased from a health food store)
36 small sprigs dill
CRAB SALAD
½ cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons whole-grain Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
2½ cups (about 12 ounces) cooked Dungeness crabmeat (from about 2 Dungeness crabs, for cooking instructions)
1 cup amaranth, baby beet greens, baby arugula, or other baby greens
3 tablespoons grated daikon radish
Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
This is a wonderful chilled salad thanks to the clean and distinctive flavor of the crab. I’ve combined it with elements that have gone with crab forever—cucumber, fresh dill, and mustard.
FOR THE JELLY: Using a mandoline or sharp knife, cut lengthwise slices about 1/16 inch thick from the cucumber. Cut the slices into narrow strips about ⅛ inch wide. Cut the strips on the diagonal to make small cucumber diamonds; you will need about 2 tablespoons of diamonds.
Squeeze the gelatin to remove excess water and place it in a small metal bowl. Set the bowl over a pan of hot water and stir to dissolve the gelatin. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the cucumber juice, being certain that the gelatin completely dissolves.
Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of the jelly into each of six shallow serving bowls and rotate the bowls to distribute the jelly evenly. Making certain that the dishes are level, arrange the cucumber diamonds and the dill sprigs over the jelly keeping in mind that the crab will sit in the center of each dish. Place the bowls in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to several hours to set the jelly.
TO COMPLETE: In a medium bowl, whip the heavy cream until it forms a ribbon when the whisk is lifted (just before soft peaks). Whisk in the mustard and salt and white pepper to taste. Place the crabmeat in a bowl and fold in just enough of the whipped cream to bind the salad.
Toss the greens with the daikon, a drizzle of oil, and salt and white pepper to taste.
Fill a 2- to 2½-inch ring mold, about 1½ inches high (see Sources), with crab salad. Slip your hand under the filled ring and place the ring over the center of the chilled jelly in one bowl. Lift off and remove the ring and top the crab salad with a stack of the dressed greens. Repeat with the remaining bowls, and serve immediately. (If the kitchen is very warm, the gelatin may begin to melt; should this happen, return them to the refrigerator briefly to set up before serving.)
pictured here makes 6 servings
SAUCE
2 hard-boiled egg yolks
2 tablespoons Chicken Stock, heated, or hot water
3 tablespoons cornichon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ cup canola oil
3 tablespoons minced cornichons
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
2 tablespoons Brunoise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil for deep-frying
1 tablespoon capers, drained
6 live soft-shell crabs
Clarified Butter, for panfrying
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour for dusting
6 brioche croutons
6 pieces Tomato Confit, at room temperature
¼ cup baby arugula (or regular arugula cut into chiffonade—long narrow strips)
This is not really a sandwich, of course, but the dish was inspired by my love of traditional soft-shell crab sandwiches heaped with tomatoes and tartar sauce. I’ve refashioned the ingredients of a classic tartar sauce—egg yolks, dill pickles, capers—as hard-boiled yolks, Dijon mustard, and cornichons. On top of the sauce, I put a crouton, then the crab, trimmed down to just its body and claws, then tomato confit, arugula, and fried capers.
FOR THE SAUCE: Blend the egg yolks, chicken stock, cornichon juice, and mustard in a blender. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the oil so the mixture emulsifies. Remove the sauce to a small bowl and stir in the remaining sauce ingredients. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature before serving.
FOR THE CAPERS: In a very small pot, heat about 2 inches of canola oil to 250°F. Add the drained capers and fry slowly for 12 to 15 minutes, or until bubbles have stopped forming around the capers and they are dry and crunchy. Drain them on paper towels.
TO CLEAN THE CRABS: Using a pair of scissors, cut off the crabs’ faces and discard. Gut off the two large claws where they meet the body and reserve. Cut off and discard the smaller legs and trim the sides of the body for a smooth edge. Lift off the apron, the pointed piece on the underside of each crab. Remove the lungs and any other matter beneath the apron. Rinse the six bodies and twelve claws and pat dry with paper towels.
Heat ⅛ inch of clarified butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Season the pieces of crab with salt and pepper and dredge in flour, patting off any excess. Add the crab bodies shell side down to the hot butter. The butter should be hot enough to sizzle when the crabs are added, but not so hot that it pops and spurts from the pan. Sauté the crab bodies for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are golden brown and crusty on the bottom. Turn the bodies, add the claws, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes; turn the claws after about 1 minute. Remove the crab pieces and drain on paper towels.
TO COMPLETE: Place a spoonful of sauce in the center of each serving plate. Center a crouton on the sauce and top it with a crab body. Fold a piece of tomato confit in half and place it over the crab. Arrange 2 claws over each piece of tomato and finish with a stack of baby arugula. Sprinkle the plates with the fried capers. Serve immediately.
pictured here makes 6 servings
8 ounces sushi-quality yellowfin tuna fillet with as little sinew as possible
Extra virgin olive oil
SALAD
½ small yellow bell pepper
½ small red bell pepper
1 small fennel bulb
Canola oil for deep-frying
1 teaspoon capers, drained
1 cup loosely packed frisée (inner white leaves only)
¼ cup Herb Salad (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons Tapenade
6 quail eggs, hard-boiled (2 minutes) and peeled
1 tablespoon hot paprika
6 triangular-shaped brioche Croutons
Fleur de sel
1 tablespoon Pepper Confetti
This is simply another incarnation of the classic salade Niçoise, which is canned white tuna, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and whatever lettuces are around. This version uses fresh tuna, hard-boiled quail eggs rather than hen eggs, and frisée and a julienne of red and yellow peppers rather than a large salad. The olives take the form of tapenade, a very intense and concentrated preparation that adds elements of anchovy and olive oil to the dish.
FOR THE TUNA: Thinly slice the tuna fillet. Lightly oil six pieces of plastic wrap and lay the slices in 6 equal portions on the plastic wrap. Rub the top of the tuna slices with a light coating of oil and cover with more plastic wrap. Use a flat meat pounder to lightly pound the slices, then use a rolling pin to roll the tuna into paper-thin sheets.
Place a 4-inch round cutter or mold on each piece and run a sharp knife around the mold and through the wrap. The circles of tuna, still in the plastic, can be refrigerated for a few hours. (Reserve the scraps for another use, such as tuna tartare.)
FOR THE SALAD: Peel the skin from the peppers with a vegetable peeler. Cut the peppers into sections following their natural lines, and peel the edges as necessary. Trim and discard the ribs and seeds and cut the peppers into fine julienne about 1 inch long. You will need about 2 tablespoons of each color pepper.
Cut a vertical slice about ⅛ inch thick from one of the outer layers of the fennel bulb. Trim it so that you have a flat piece and cut it into a fine julienne. You will need about 2 tablespoons. (Reserve the remaining fennel for another use.)
In a very small pot, heat about 2 inches of canola oil to 250°F. Add the drained capers and fry them over low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they are dry and crunchy. It’s important to use a low temperature, or the capers—which are a bud—will not open. (Frying vegetables dehydrates them, or removes all the water. If the temperature is too hot, they will brown before all the moisture is removed and they will not dry out properly or get the crunchy result you seek.) Bubbles will appear around the capers as long as there is still moisture present. When the bubbles are gone, remove the capers from the oil and drain on paper towels.
TO COMPLETE: Toss the frisée with the herb salad, bell peppers, fennel, and capers. Add the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and a pinch of salt.
Remove the top sheet of plastic wrap from one round of tuna and invert the fish onto a serving plate. Remove the second piece of wrap and rub a thin coating of olive oil over the tuna. Repeat with the remaining tuna.
Place a small quenelle, or oval scoop (IV2 teaspoons), of tapenade off to one side of each circle of tuna. Place a small mound of herb salad between the tuna and tapenade. Trim the bottom of each quail egg so that it will stand up, dip the top of the quail egg in the paprika, and nestle an egg and a crouton by the greens and tapenade on each plate. Sprinkle the tuna with fleur de sel and sprinkle the pepper confetti over the plates.
makes 6 servings
Red, yellow, and green “fancy” bell peppers
This is a lovely, colorful garnish when bell peppers suit the food—in the gazpacho, say, or the blini with roasted peppers, anything Mediterranean or Provençal in style. Use “fancy” peppers as they have more flesh and will give a far superior result.
Cut off the tops and bottoms of the peppers, then cut the peppers into sections following the natural lines in the skin. Trim away the ribs and seeds. Peel off the skin, using a vegetable peeler. You will be left with smooth flat pieces of pepper about ¼ inch thick. Cut the peppers into 1/16-inch julienne strips.
Lay the pepper strips on the glass tray in the microwave or another microwave dish that has a smooth surface. Do not place the peppers on a plate or dish that has a textured surface, or the strips will dry unevenly and may burn in spots.
Microwave on medium-high power for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the strips are dried out. Lay the finished strips side by side and cut them into small dice. Store in an airtight container at room temperature; the confetti will keep for weeks if the pepper strips have been completely dried.
2½ tablespoons Italian parsley leaves
2½ tablespoons chervil (in small clusters)
2 tablespoons chive tips (about 1 inch long)
1 tablespoon tarragon leaves
1 teaspoon thyme leaves (for fish dishes only)
1 tablespoon chive or thyme flowers
Gently mix the herbs just before serving. We not only use herbs to flavor dishes in their cooking and as garnish, we also serve them on their own in the form of an herb salad. Use small sprigs of tender herbs such as chervil, chives, parsley, cilantro, and thyme leaves. For herbs with harder stems such as thyme, use just the leaves; because when they’re fresh and whole, they’re powerful, so you need only a small quantity.
makes a scant ½ cup
RED WINE SAUCE
2 pieces marrow bone (cut 1½ inches long)
Canola oil
¼ cup chopped carrots
¼ cup chopped turnips
1 small clove garlic, crushed
1 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
3 tablespoons port
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1½ cups Veal Stock
½ cup water
2 sprigs chervil
2 sprigs Italian parsley
1 sprig tarragon
1 small bay leaf
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
COURT BOUILLON (IF USING FRESH SNAILS)
2½ cups water
½ cup sliced carrots
½ cup sliced leeks
2 small bay leaves
¾ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 lemon
1¾ cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
SNAILS
36 fresh snails in the shell (about 1½ pints) or 36 best-quality canned large snails
3 tablespoons unsalted butter (if using canned snails)
2 tablespoons minced shallots (if using canned snails)
1½ teaspoons minced shallots
2 teaspoons tomato diamonds
1 tablespoon Brunoise
½ cup Beurre Monté
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons minced Italian parsley
Kosher salt
CARROT PURÉE
8 ounces carrots, cut into uniform pieces about ½ inch wide and 1 inch long (1½ cups)
About 2 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt
ROASTED SHALLOTS
6 medium shallots (about 6 ounces)
Canola oil
Kosher salt
6 triangular brioche Croutons
¼ cup Herb Salad
FOR THE MARROW: Soak the marrow bones in a bowl of ice water for 20 minutes. Drain and remove the marrow from the bones by pushing it out with your finger. If it doesn’t come out easily, soak the bones briefly in warm water, just enough to loosen the marrow. Soak the marrow pieces in a bowl of ice water for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water every 6 to 8 hours. (It is important to change the water because as the blood is extracted from the marrow, the water will become saturated with blood and the marrow could spoil.)
FOR THE COURT BOUILLON (IF USING FRESH SNAILS): Place the water in a saucepan. Add the carrots, leeks, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze in the juice, and add the lemon halves and wine to the saucepan.
Meanwhile, rinse the fresh snails under cold running water and place them in a bowl.
After the court bouillon has returned to a simmer, pour it over the snails and place the bowl in an ice bath. Let the snails and liquid cool completely.
When the snails are cold, remove them one by one from the court bouillon, reserving it, and remove the snails from the shells: Place the tip of a paring knife or a toothpick behind the head of the snail and gently pry the snail forward. Use your fingers to carefully pull the snail from the shell while gently twisting the body. (The body follows the shape of the shell and you need to be careful not to break it.) As you remove each snail, place it in cold water; discard the shells.
Strain the court bouillon. Remove the snails from the water and place them in the bouillon. (Be careful not to put your fingers in the bouillon; as with any stock or sauce, you might add bacteria to the liquid and thereby reduce its shelf life.) Cover the snails and refrigerate for up to 4 days.
FOR CANNED SNAILS: Rinse the snails under cold running water. Melt the butter in a small skillet, add the shallots, and cook over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, to soften the shallots. Add the snails and cook gently for about 1 to 2 minutes, or just until hot. Transfer the snails, butter, and shallots to a container and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
FOR THE CARROT PURÉE: Place the carrots in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Pour in enough cream just to cover the carrots. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer gently for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the carrots are completely tender. Adjust the heat as necessary so that the cream does not scorch.
Drain the carrots, pressing lightly on them to remove excess cream. Pass the carrots through a tamis and season to taste with salt. The carrots can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to a day.
FOR THE ROASTED SHALLOTS: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Lightly coat the shallots with oil and place on a sheet of aluminum foil. Sprinkle with salt and seal the foil to make a packet. Place the packet in the oven and roast for about 1 hour, or until the shallots are tender.
Remove the shallots from the oven and let cool until they are easy to handle. Peel the shallots. Remove the outer layers and discard. Gut the centers into wedges that are smaller than the snails.
FOR THE SAUCE: Heat a film of canola oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrots and turnips and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly caramelized. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and port, then simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid has evaporated and the pan is dry.
Meanwhile, drain the marrow and cut it into ¼-inch dice. There should be about ⅓ cup. Place the bone marrow and shallots in a medium saucepan and cook over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the shallots are translucent. Stir in the flour and cook for another 2 minutes.
While the marrow and shallots are cooking, heat the stock and water in a small saucepan until hot. Add the hot stock and water to the carrots and turnips and simmer for a minute to incorporate the ingredients.
Whisk the carrots, turnips, and stock into the marrow and shallots. Add the chervil, parsley, tarragon, and bay leaf and simmer for 10 minutes to infuse the sauce with the flavor of the herbs. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little water. Strain the sauce into a small saucepan.
TO COMPLETE: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Place the minced shallots, tomato diamonds, brunoise, beurre monté, and water in an ovenproof saucepan and add the snails and roasted shallots. Place the pan in the oven and heat for about 6 minutes, or just until heated through. (Overcooking the snails will cause them to shrink and toughen.)
Meanwhile, reheat the carrot purée in a pan over low heat and season with salt to taste. Rewarm the sauce and season with salt and pepper.
When the snails are warm, remove the pan from the oven and stir in the parsley and salt to taste.
Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of sauce in each serving bowl. Form a quenelle, a small oval scoop, of carrot purée (dip the spoon in hot water before forming each quenelle for a smoother shape), place the quenelle to one side of the center of the bowl, and lean a crouton against the quenelle, placing it in the center of the plate. Repeat with the remaining bowls.
Spoon 6 snails, along with some of the vegetable garnishes and the sauce in the pan, alongside each crouton. Sprinkle with the herb salad.
pictured here makes 6 servings
Snails are now commercially cultivated in California, giving us a new ingredient to work with. I wanted to use them in a way that wasn’t stereotypical but also wasn’t so far away from traditional preparations as to be contrived or confusing. In this fricassée, they’re served with roasted shallots, a red wine sauce made with bone marrow that adds a rich flavor to the dish, croutons, and a sweet carrot purée. Note that the marrow needs to be soaked for at least 12 hours.
