Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon—Sugar Doughnuts
CAPPUCCINO SEMIFREDDO
2 large eggs, separated
3 large egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
½ vanilla bean, split
2 tablespoons espresso extract
½ cup heavy cream
CINNAMON-SUGAR DOUGHNUTS PART 1
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water, at room temperature
¼ ounce compressed fresh yeast
½ cup all-purpose flour
PART 2
¼ ounce compressed fresh yeast
2 tablespoons milk, at room temperature
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, or more as needed
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup egg yolks (about 3 large yolks)
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
Canola oil for deep-frying
Cinnamon sugar: ½ cup sugar mixed with 1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ cup milk
This may be another of those “had-to-be-sad-to-see-it” creations, like the salmon cornet. I was working in L.A., miserable and poor. I had a James Beard Foundation dinner coming up and had no idea what I was going to serve. Across from my apartment was an S and K doughnut shop. I’d go there once a week for a glazed old-fashioned doughnut and a cup of coffee. I liked the glazed old-fashioned because it was so heavy—it felt like you were getting a lot for your money. And there it was: Coffee and Doughnuts. I tried it for the first time at the Beard House and it worked.
An element of surprise here is that the semifreddo, a partially frozen mousse, is cold beneath hot, frothy steamed milk. The doughnuts are delicious traditional deep-fried treats, coated with cinnamon sugar. It’s a great do-ahead recipe; not only can the semifreddo be kept frozen, but the uncooked doughnuts can also stay frozen for up to three days. This dessert always seems to make people smile.
FOR THE CAPPUCCINO SEMIFREDDO: Place the egg yolks and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the bowl. Whip for about 12 minutes at medium speed, or until the mixture has lightened and tripled in volume. Beat in the espresso extract. Transfer the mixture to a bowl placed in a larger bowl of ice water to maintain its consistency.
In a mixer bowl or a metal bowl, whip the heavy cream with 3 tablespoons of the sugar until it holds its shape when the whisk or beater is lifted. Fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture and return the bowl to the ice.
Whip the egg whites in a mixer bowl or metal bowl until they are frothy. While whipping, add in the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and whip the egg whites just until they hold soft peaks, being careful not to overwhip them. Fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until they are completely combined.
Spoon the semifreddo into six 8- to 10-ounce coffee cups, leaving at least ½ inch at the top for the steamed milk. Gently tap the cups against the counter to level the mixture. Cover the cups with plastic wrap and place them in the freezer until frozen, at least 6 to 8 hours, or overnight. These will keep for up to 3 days in the freezer; after that time, they will start to deflate.
FOR THE CINNAMON-SUGAR DOUGHNUTS: PART 1: Place the water in the bowl of a mixer. Crumble the yeast into the water; mix and crush the yeast with a spoon to dissolve. Add the flour to the bowl and, using the dough hook, mix slowly until the ingredients are thoroughly blended.
Transfer this sponge to a bowl, cover, and let proof at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, until it has doubled; or place the bowl in the refrigerator to proof overnight.
PART 2: Crumble the yeast into the milk in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve. Place ¾ cup of the flour, the sugar, and salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mixing on low speed, pour in the milk and yeast mixture, followed by the egg yolks and butter. Mix for a minute to combine.
Add the proofed sponge and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons flour. Continue to beat at low speed until combined. Turn up the speed slightly and knead the dough for 4 to 5 minutes, or until it has formed a ball and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough seems wet, it may be necessary to add 1 to 2 more tablespoons flour. Cover the bowl and let the dough proof overnight in the refrigerator.
TO SHAPE THE DOUGHNUTS: Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it out to a ½-inch thickness. Cut out the doughnuts using a 2-inch doughnut cutter, or a 2-inch biscuit cutter (in which case, you will also need a ¾-inch cutter to make the hole). Place the doughnuts and doughnut holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the doughnuts with a sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed with nonstick spray.
At this point, the doughnuts can be frozen for several days, refrigerated, or allowed to rise at room temperature. If they’re frozen, defrost them and then allow them to rise at room temperature for 1 to 1½ hours. They can be refrigerated for several hours or overnight, to rise slowly. When you remove them from the refrigerator, uncover them and let them finish proofing in a warm place for 20 to 30 minutes. If they have not been refrigerated or frozen, they should rise at room temperature in about 15 minutes. Once proofed, they will have risen to approximately ¾ inch.
TO COOK THE DOUGHNUTS: In a deep heavy saucepan large enough to hold half the doughnuts and holes at a time, heat canola oil for deep-frying to 325°F. Add half the doughnuts and holes to the oil and cook for approximately 30 seconds on the first side. Flip the doughnuts and fry for 1 minute on the second side, then turn back to the first side to cook for an additional 30 seconds, or until a deep golden brown. Remove the doughnuts, drain them briefly on paper towels, and toss them in a bowl with the cinnamon sugar. Repeat with the remaining doughnuts.
TO COMPLETE: Remove the semifreddo from the freezer a few minutes before serving to soften slightly. Steam the milk using a cappuccino machine or frothing machine. Place a cup of semifreddo and a doughnut on each of six plates. Top each doughnut with a doughnut hole. Spoon the steamed milk over the semifreddo and serve immediately.
makes 6 servings
NOTE: Coffee extract is available to culinary professionals. An alternative is to fill a jar of instant espresso with boiling water. This will dissolve the granules and create espresso extract, which can be stored indefinitely in the refrigerator. Or you can make a smaller quantity, using equal amounts of espresso powder and boiling water.
YOGURT CHARLOTTES
⅔ cup heavy cream
¼ cup sugar
1 gelatin sheet, soaked in cold water to soften
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
CRÈME ANGLAISE
½ vanilla bean, split
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup milk
½ cup sugar
5 large egg yolks
TELLICHERRY PEPPER SYRUP
1 cup water
¾ cup sugar
6 Tellicherry peppercorns, lightly crushed (with the bottom of a heavy pan or a meat pounder)
1 pint raspberries
1 pint small strawberries, hulled
1 small sprig mint
DACQUOISE
1 cup (3 ounces) sliced blanched almonds, finely ground in a coffee mill
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
⅓ cup egg whites (2 to 3 egg whites)
BLUEBERRY SOUP
1 cup dry crisp, white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
Julienned zest (removed with a zester) and juice of 1 lemon
1½ pints blueberries
½ cup sugar
2 egg cartons or a baking pan filled with a ½-inch layer of salt or crumpled foil (to support the molds)
The blueberry soup is fantastic all by itself, but I like the charlotte because it is a unique way to use yogurt, which replaces the traditional milk or cream. We use as little gelatin as possible to keep the delicacy of the yogurt intact.
The charlottes are formed in 4-ounce “hemisphere”-shaped stainless steel molds (see Sources). They should be made a day or two ahead.
FOR THE YOGURT CHARLOTTES: Combine ⅓ cup of the cream with the sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Pour the cream into a bowl. Squeeze the excess water from the gelatin sheet and stir it into the hot cream until it has dissolved. Stir in the yogurt and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.
In a medium bowl, lightly whip the remaining ⅓ cup cream just until it begins to hold its shape. Stir the cooled yogurt mixture into the cream.
Place 6 hemisphere molds in the egg cartons, or nestle them in the foil or salt to keep them from tilting. Divide the charlotte mixture among the molds. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 2 days.
FOR THE CRÈME ANGLAISE: Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into a medium saucepan; add the pod, cream, milk, and half the sugar. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar until they have thickened and lightened to a pale yellow. Whisk one third of the hot cream mixture into the yolks to temper them and return the mixture to the saucepan. Stir with a wooden spoon over low heat until the custard thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Pour the custard into a metal bowl set in an ice-water bath to cool. When the custard is cool, strain it, cover, and place in the refrigerator to chill.
FOR THE TELLICHERRY PEPPER SYRUP: Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to just under a simmer (a bubble or two is all right, but if the mixture begins to boil, the syrup will be cloudy). Cook for 45 minutes, allowing the flavors to infuse. Strain the syrup; discard the fruit and seasonings. There will be 1 to 1½ cups of syrup; it can be refrigerated in a covered container for up to 1 month.
FOR THE DACQUOISE: Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Blend the almonds, ⅔ cup of the sugar, and the cornstarch together in a food processor until the nuts are very finely ground.
In a mixer bowl, whip the egg whites at medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes until they start to hold their shape. Slowly add the remaining ⅓ cup sugar and continue to beat until the meringue holds its shape and is silky and shiny (like shaving cream). Thoroughly fold the dry ingredients into the meringue.
Using an offset spatula, spread half the batter in a very thin layer (about ⅛ inch thick) onto each baking pan. Bake for 10 minutes. If the dacquoises seem to be baking unevenly, reverse their positions after 5 minutes. Remove from the oven (leave the oven on). Using a 2¾-inch cutter (or a cutter with the same diameter as the charlotte molds), cut at least 6 rounds. Using a 2-inch cutter, cut at least 18 rounds and then, with a knife, cut each of these rounds in half. If the meringue sticks to the cutter or knife, dampen a cloth with some canola oil and rub the cutter or knife as necessary. You will have more than you need, but you may have some breakage.
Return the dacquoises to the oven for another 10 to 15 minutes. Test by breaking off a scrap and letting it cool for a minute. If it crisps, remove the rest from the oven; otherwise, continue cooking them a little longer. Check the dacquoises often, as the two pans may finish cooking at different times. When they are done and still warm, recut them if necessary, using the same cutters. Carefully remove the dacquoises from the pan with a small offset spatula and store in an airtight container. They are best used within a day, as humidity may cause them to soften.
FOR THE BLUEBERRY SOUP: Bring the wine to a boil in a small saucepan and skim off any residue that comes to the top. Add the lemon zest and juice and simmer until the liquid is reduced to ¼ cup. Strain the reduced liquid (discarding the lemon zest) into a medium saucepan. Stir in the blueberries and cook over medium-low heat until they burst.
Add 1 cup of the pepper syrup and the sugar and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Pour half the mixture into a blender (it is best to do this in parts because the mixture is hot and the steam could cause the lid to blow off). If you have a hole in the top of the blender, remove the small cap to release the steam. Pulse several times, then blend the mixture until it is smooth. Strain the soup base into a large measuring cup and repeat with the remainder of the mixture, adding it to the measuring cup. Stir in cold water to bring the quantity of soup base to 4 cups. Place in a bowl set in an ice-water bath and chill thoroughly.
Stir 1⅓ cups of cold crème anglaise into the soup base. You will have approximately 5⅓ cups of soup; you need only 3 cups of soup for this recipe, but the remaining soup will keep for several days, covered, in the refrigerator.
TO COMPLETE: Dip each mold briefly into hot water, hold a dacquoise round directly against the charlotte, and invert the charlotte to unmold. (It will be easy to handle the charlotte as it sits on the cookie.) Place one charlotte in the center of each serving bowl. Gently press 6 dacquoise halves around each charlotte. Place the cold soup in a pitcher or other container with a spout and carefully pour the soup around the charlottes; serve immediately.
pictured here makes 6 servings
WALNUT CREAM
1¼ cups (5 ounces) walnuts, toasted, excess skin rubbed off, and chopped
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup milk
¼ vanilla bean, split
PEAR PURÉE
1 large pear
1½ cups Poaching Liquid
Walnut oil
Our walnut soup began as a walnut sauce for a walnut bread pudding, and indeed the soup can be used as a sauce. But it tastes so good we decided to serve it as a soup. The pear purée adds the perfect sweetness to the subtle bitterness of the toasted walnuts. This is rich and should be served in small portions. At the restaurant, it’s served as a canapé dessert soup, playing off our custom of serving canapé soups to begin the meal.
Walnut soup is best when eaten shortly after it is made, but, if necessary, it can be refrigerated for a couple of days.
FOR THE WALNUT CREAM: Place the walnuts, cream, and milk in a saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pan and add the pod. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to keep the liquid just below a simmer and heat for 30 to 45 minutes to let the flavors infuse. Strain the infused liquid into another saucepan and discard the walnuts and vanilla pod. You should have about 1½ cups of walnut cream.
MEANWHILE, FOR THE PEAR PURÉE: Peel the pear, core, and cut it into 8 wedges. Put the wedges in a saucepan with the poaching liquid. Cover them with a parchment lid and bring the liquid to a simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until the pear wedges are completely softened and there is no resistance when they are tested with the tip of a sharp knife. Transfer the pears and ⅓ cup of the poaching liquid to a blender.
Reheat the walnut cream. Purée the pears, then, with the motor running, pour the hot walnut cream into the blender to combine (the cream must be hot when it is added to the purée, or the soup may break). There will be about 2 cups soup.
Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a saucepan and reheat gently over low heat. Serve warm in demitasse cups, sprinkled with a few drops of walnut oil.
makes 8 small servings
One 750-ml bottle verjus (see Sources)
1 cup corn syrup
1 cup Poaching Liquid
3 tablespoons honey
2 large ripe but firm peaches
Verjus is a flavoring ingredient—much like vinegar—that was popular in the Middle Ages, but has only in this decade become more well known in the United States. The word derives from vertjus, or “green juice”, and refers to the juice of unripe grapes. It’s a fruity, acidic liquid that lends itself naturally to sorbets. You can use a variety of fruits in this dessert, but because the sorbet is very tart, the fruit should be very sweet.
FOR THE SORBET: In a bowl, combine the verjus and corn syrup. Place in the refrigerator until cold.
Freeze the sorbet base in an ice-cream machine. Remove the sorbet to a covered container and store in the freezer. This is best eaten within a day, but it can be held in the freezer for a few days. It makes about 1 quart, so you will have extra sorbet.
FOR THE PEACHES: Bring the poaching liquid and honey to a simmer in a small saucepan.
Meanwhile, blanch the peaches in boiling water just to loosen the skins. Remove the peaches, chill them in a bowl of ice water, and peel. Stand a peach on a cutting board with the stem end pointing up and cut 3 slices from the peach by making equal vertical cuts around the pit (in a triangular shape). Repeat with the remaining peach. Cut a round from each slice with a ¾-inch cutter (or whatever size you have).
When the poaching liquid is simmering, add the peach rounds, cover with a piece of paper towel (to keep the peach rounds submerged), and reduce the heat so that the peaches poach at just under a simmer in the syrup. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, the peaches should be cooked through but not mushy. Remove the pot from the heat and let the peaches cool in the syrup.
Remove the peaches to a container. Reduce the poaching liquid to about ½ cup and let cool to room temperature. Add the syrup to the peaches and refrigerate them to chill, or for up to 2 days.
TO COMPLETE: Place a peach round on each serving plate and top with a small scoop of sorbet.
pictured here makes 6 servings
One 750-ml bottle crisp, dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
3 cups water
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
Bring the wine to a boil in a saucepan. Skim off any foam that has risen to the top, then add the water and sugar. Return the liquid to a boil and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to several weeks.
makes about 6 cups
RHUBARB CONFIT
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water
2 stalks rhubarb
CANDIED FENNEL
1 small fennel bulb
½ lemon
Pinch of salt
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
MASCARPONE SORBET
1 pound mascarpone, at room temperature
2¼ cups Simple Syrup (see Note), cold
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
PIROUETTE COOKIES makes 12 to 24
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup powdered sugar
4 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour, sifted
1 large egg white
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup navel orange sections (use small navel oranges)
½ cup parisienne balls of strawberry
Fennel Oil, in a squeeze bottle
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
FOR THE RHUBARB CONFIT: Bring the sugar and water to a simmer in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, cut off the ends of the rhubarb, discarding any leaves, and use a paring knife to strip away the strings that run the length of the stalks.
Add the trimmings to the saucepan and simmer for about 2 minutes to infuse the syrup. Strain and discard the trimmings. Return the hot syrup to the saucepan and place over low heat.
Slice the rhubarb crosswise into ¼-inch slices. There should be about 1 cup. Add the pieces to the syrup and poach for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the slices are tender but haven’t lost their shape. Place the rhubarb and its syrup in a container and cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate the confit for a few hours, or up to a week.
FOR THE CANDIED FENNEL: Trim away the top of the fennel and any tough or bruised outside layers. You’ll need solid sheets of fennel: Cut ⅜-inch-thick slices of fennel vertically through the root end, working your way around the fennel to cut the best slices.
Fill a small saucepan with water, squeeze in the juice of the lemon half, and add the salt. Add the slices of fennel to the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fennel is tender and there is no resistance when the slices are pierced with the tip of a knife; drain.
Bring the 2 cups of water and the sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Add the fennel and cook gently over low heat until the fennel is translucent, about 1 hour. Remove the fennel and syrup to a container and allow it to cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate the fennel for a few hours to chill; it will keep for up to a month.
FOR THE MASCARPONE SORBET: Mix the mascarpone and syrup in a bowl, then place the mixture in a blender and pulse a few times to blend thoroughly. Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream machine; when it is almost frozen, add the lemon juice and complete the freezing. Remove to a covered container and store in the freezer. The sorbet is best the day it is made, but it can be stored for up to 3 days.
FOR THE PIROUETTE COOKIES: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the butter in a bowl and sift the powdered sugar over it. Mix with a wooden spoon to cream the mixture. Stir in half the flour. Mix in the egg white and then the remaining flour. Add the vanilla extract and beat the mixture until well blended and creamy.
Cut a narrow stencil 6½ inches by ¾ inch (a manila file folder works well for this). Place a Silpat (see Sources) on the counter. Place the stencil in one corner of the Silpat and, holding it flat against the Silpat, scoop some of the batter onto the back of an offset spatula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil. It should be thin but not transparent. Run the spatula over the top of the entire stencil to remove any excess batter. Repeat with the remaining batter, spacing the cookies about 1½ inches apart.
Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and bake on the top rack of the oven for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the cookies are set and light golden brown. Pull out the oven rack with the baking sheet on it, leave the door open and work from the oven rack shelf. Should the cookies harden before they are rolled, close the oven door and rewarm them briefly to soften. Remove a cookie from the pan and immediately wrap it in a spiral around a ¼-inch dowel or a wooden spoon handle of the same diameter; it will stiffen almost immediately. Slide the cookie off the dowel and continue to form the cookies. Store in an airtight container for 1 to 2 days (you’ll need only 6 cookies for this dessert).
TO COMPLETE: Remove a piece of candied fennel from the syrup, drain, and cut it into strips about ¼ inch wide. Cut the fennel strips on the diagonal into ¼-inch diamonds. Continue to cut enough fennel to make 3 tablespoons of fennel diamonds. (Reserve any remaining fennel to garnish another dessert or for another use.)
Remove ⅓ cup rhubarb from the poaching liquid; reserve the rest for another use. Arrange equal portions of the oranges, strawberries, fennel diamonds, and rhubarb on each of six plates. Drizzle with a little of the rhubarb poaching liquid and the fennel syrup. Squeeze a few drops of fennel oil around each fruit salad. Place a quenelle, or small scoop, of mascarpone sorbet atop each salad. Dust 6 pirouette cookies with powdered sugar and set one on top of each quenelle of sorbet. Serve immediately.
makes 6 servings
NOTE: Simple syrup is used in several of these dessert recipes. You can make a batch and store it covered in the refrigerator for several weeks. Using ½ cup each sugar and water will give you about ¾ cup syrup. Bring equal parts of sugar and water to a boil in a heavy saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, let cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate.
I love rhubarb, and here I make a “salad” with it, using candied fennel and an incredible mascarpone sorbet; the latter is straight from Alain Ducasse. It’s a beautiful, refreshing dessert.
GREEN TOMATO CONFITURE
Julienned zest and juice of 1 lemon (see Note)
Julienned zest and juice of 1 lime
Julienned zest and juice of 1 orange
4 medium green tomatoes (1 pound 10 ounces)
⅓ cup water
⅓ cup diced dried peaches (¼-inch dice)
⅓ cup golden raisins
1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
One 1-inch piece ginger
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
DACQUOISE
1 cup (3 ounces) sliced blanched almonds, finely ground in a coffee mill
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
⅓ cup egg whites (2 to 3 egg whites)
6 nectarines
HAZELNUT SABAYON
½ cup heavy cream
2 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar
1½ teaspoons hazelnut oil
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
We serve this dessert—whole nectarines sliced and “rebuilt”—topped with a confiture of green tomatoes and dacquoise, which can be made weeks ahead and kept in the refrigerator. The dacquoise recipe will make more cookies than you need, but it is difficult to make the batter in a smaller quantity.
FOR THE GREEN TOMATO CONFITURE: Combine the citrus zests in a small saucepan, add cold water to cover, and bring to a boil. Drain in a strainer and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
Blister the skin of the tomatoes over a gas flame, under a broiler, or using a blowtorch, turning the tomatoes for even blistering. Remove the skins by rubbing the tomatoes with a new pot scrubber (no soap) under cold water.
Cut the tomatoes into ¼-inch dice (about 4 cups) and place them in a saucepan with the citrus zests and the remaining ingredients. Cover with a parchment lid and simmer for about 1½ hours, or until the tomatoes are translucent and fully cooked and the liquid is reduced and syrupy (but not quite as thick as honey).
FOR THE DACQUOISE: Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Blend the almonds, ⅔ cup of the sugar, and the cornstarch together in a food processor until the nuts are very finely ground.
In a mixer bowl, whip the egg whites at medium speed until they start to hold their shape, then slowly add the remaining ⅓ cup sugar. Continue to whip until the meringue holds stiff peaks and is silky and shiny (like shaving cream). Thoroughly fold the dry ingredients into the meringue.
Using an offset spatula, spread half the batter in a very thin layer onto one parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes, then remove from the oven and use a 2½-inch round cutter (or whatever size you will use in assembling the finished dish) to cut 8 circles in the dacquoises. Return to the oven for another 15 to 20 minutes: Test by breaking off a scrap piece and letting it cool for a minute. If it crisps, remove the rest from the oven; otherwise, continue cooking them for a little longer. When the daquoises are done and still warm, recut them using the same cutter, if necessary. Remove the cookies from the sheet with a small offset spatula.
Meanwhile, place the remaining batter in a pastry bag with a #2 (¼-inch) plain tip and pipe into 4- to 5-inch sticks on the second parchment-lined baking sheet. Hold the tip slightly above the pan as you pipe the daquoise, rather than against it, so that the batter can fall and hold a rounded shape. Bake for 30 minutes. Test as above and remove from the sheet when done.
Store the dacquoises in an airtight container until ready to assemble the dessert. They are best used within a day, as humidity may cause them to soften.
FOR THE NECTARINE STACKS: Cut the flesh of the nectarines away from the pits, slicing it off in two vertical slices, one on each side of the pit. Cut the pieces crosswise into paper-thin slices (half-rounds). Place a dacquoise round in the bottom of a 2½-inch ring mold. Overlap the slices of one nectarine around the inside of the mold, skin side out, stacking them until you have used the whole nectarine or reached the top of the mold. There will be a hole in the center. Form 5 more stacks (you will be able to move them once they are made, because they have a solid base).
FOR THE HAZELNUT SABAYON: Pour about 1½ inches of water into a pot that is slightly smaller than the metal bowl of a mixer and heat just until hot.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whip the cream to medium peaks. Set aside. Place the egg yolks and sugar in the metal mixer bowl, and whisk over the hot water until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture has thickened to the ribbon stage (when the whisk is lifted, the mixture will hold some shape as it falls back into the bowl).
Place the bowl on the mixer stand and whip until the mixture has cooled. Mix in the oil. Remove the bowl from the machine and whisk in about one quarter of the cream to lighten the mixture. Fold in the remaining whipped cream.
Spoon about 2 tablespoons of sabayon onto the center of each plate. Center a nectarine stack in the sauce and top each with a quenelle of tomato confiture. Sprinkle 6 dacquoise sticks with powdered sugar and rest them on the confiture.
makes 6 servings
NOTE: Use a zester to remove the citrus zests in julienned strips.
STRAWBERRY SORBET makes 1 quart
2½ pounds strawberries, preferably organic, rinsed and hulled
¼ cup honey, or to taste
1 cup superfine sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
BISCUITS makes 8 or 9
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus a little extra for cutting the biscuits
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted cold butter, cut into chunks
About ½ cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons milk
CRÈME FRAÎCHE SAUCE makes ¾ cup
¾ cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons sugar, or to taste
¼ vanilla bean, split
¾ cup chopped strawberries, drained
Sugar to taste
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
All the components of this dessert can be made ahead. The uncooked biscuits can be frozen and baked directly from the freezer. Or, since the biscuit doubles easily, you may want to make a double batch and freeze half the unbaked biscuits for another time.
FOR THE STRAWBERRY SORBET: Purée the strawberries in a blender and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. You should have about 4 cups. Add the honey, superfine sugar, and salt. Freeze in an ice-cream machine, then transfer to a container and place in the freezer.
FOR THE BISCUITS: Sift the dry ingredients into a bowl. Add the butter and rub the butter and flour through your fingertips until they are completely combined and the butter is in small beads. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in ½ cup buttermilk and the milk. Use a dough scraper to incorporate the milk and flour, pulling the flour from the edges toward the center. If the dough seems too dry, add a little more buttermilk. The finished dough should feel damp, but not wet, and be a “shaggy mess,” not a solid mass.
Turn the dough out onto parchment and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 500°F. Stack two baking sheets (for more even heat distribution) and place a piece of parchment on top.
Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll out ½ inch thick. Dip a 2-inch biscuit cutter in flour and cut out rounds. Place the rounds 2 inches apart on the baking sheet.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool.
FOR THE CRÈME FRAÎCHE SAUCE: Combine the crème fraîche and sugar in a small saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the crème fraîche, add the pod, and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the sauce from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Keep the sauce warm, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Sweeten the drained chopped strawberries with sugar to taste.
TO COMPLETE: Rewarm the crème fraîche sauce over low heat.
Cut the biscuits into neat rounds with a 1½-inch biscuit cutter and split them in half. Dust the tops with powdered sugar.
Put a spoonful of sauce on each plate. Top with the bottoms of the biscuits. Spoon the chopped berries over the biscuits and cover each with a quenelle (see below), or small scoop, of sorbet. Set the tops of the biscuits on the sorbet and serve.
pictured here serves 8
Quenelles are typically made with two spoons, but the edgeless oval created by drawing a spoon through something smooth like ice cream or mousse is a more elegant shape. To make a one-spoon quenelle, you need a cup of very hot water, a spoon (whose bowl will determine the size of the quenelle), and whatever you’re “quenelling.” Dip the spoon in the water so it’s hot. Hold the spoon with the rounded bottom up, place the far edge of the spoon into the mixture, with the near edge close to the surface but not touching, and drag the spoon toward you. The mixture you’re scraping should curl with the shape of the spoon. As you drag, twist your wrist up until the quenelle folds over itself into an egg shape. For the best shape, drag only once through the mixture; dip and clean your spoon for each new quenelle. It takes some practice.
pictured here
STRAWBERRY LAYER
2 pints (1½ pounds) strawberries, preferably organically grown
2 to 4 tablespoons superfine sugar
3½ gelatin sheets, soaked in cold water to soften
3 tablespoons Champagne
Pinch of kosher salt
CHAMPAGNE LAYER
1¼ cups Champagne
3 gelatin sheets, (see Sources), soaked in cold water to soften
3½ tablespoons superfine sugar
⅓ cup crème fraîche, whipped
Small mint leaves
Jellies appear often in our desserts and elsewhere in the meal—such as the jelly made out of Gewürztraminer for the foie gras. In desserts, a jelly can take the place of a syrup. We made Champagne jelly to accompany a kir sorbet for a Kir Royale dessert. Here, we serve a Champagne jelly with puréed and gelled strawberries. It’s a good flavor combination, healthful and light, and, served as a terrine, a simple fresh dessert. The jelly should be set but still wobbly for an elegant texture.
Organically grown strawberries have the sweetest flavor, which is intensified by drying them overnight. Although the terrine will keep for several days, the Champagne layer, which is clear the day it is made, will redden and the intense color of the strawberry layer will fade after the first day.
FOR THE STRAWBERRY LAYER: Refrigerate a few strawberries for the garnish. Hull the remaining berries and let sit at room temperature overnight to dry them slightly and intensify the flavor.
The following day, purée the strawberries and strain the purée through a chinois using a small ladle to help move it through the strainer. Measure out 1¼ cups of purée. Add sugar to taste; the purée should be on the sweet side, but the amount will vary according to the quality of the strawberries.
Squeeze the excess water from the gelatin and place the sheets in a small saucepan with the Champagne. Warm gently, stirring to dissolve the gelatin. Mix it into the strawberry purée. Add the salt.
Place 6 tablespoons of the strawberry purée in the bottom of a small metal bread pan or mold about 6 inches by 3 inches, with a 2-cup capacity (choose a pan with the straightest sides to keep the layers the same thickness; if your pan flares at the top, use a little extra for each layer as necessary to compensate, keeping the layers the same thickness). Allow the purée to level out and fill the bottom of the mold evenly. Refrigerate the mold to allow the purée to set completely.
FOR THE CHAMPAGNE LAYER: While the first layer sets, boil the Champagne for a minute to remove the alcohol, skimming off any scum that rises to the top. Measure out 1 cup of the Champagne (discard the rest). Wring out the gelatin sheets and place them in a bowl. Stir the hot Champagne into the gelatin, then stir in the sugar to dissolve. Let the Champagne mixture cool to room temperature.
When the strawberry layer is set, top it with 6 tablespoons of the Champagne mixture and refrigerate until set. Continue the layering process until you have three layers of strawberry and two of Champagne. If you used a straight-sided pan, there will be a little extra of each mixture. Should either of the mixtures set up before you are finished, gently heat them over a saucepan of warm water just until they soften.
TO COMPLETE: Using a #12 melon baller, cut small parisienne balls from the reserved strawberries for garnish.
Quickly dip the mold into hot water to loosen the terrine. Unmold onto a cutting surface. Using a hot knife (dipped in hot water and wiped between each slice), cut the terrine into ½-inch slices and place in the serving dishes. Garnish each dish with a few strawberry balls, a quenelle, or small oval scoop, of whipped crème fraîche, and some small mint leaves.
pictured here makes 12 servings
In adapting the classic American strawberry shortcake—strawberries, cream, biscuit—into a French Laundry dessert, the challenge was to intensify the flavors of the various components, primarily the strawberries. We make a strawberry sorbet, which is simply puréed strawberries with honey and sugar; the addition of lemon juice heightens the flavor of the strawberries even further.
Poached—Banana Ice Cream with White Chocolate—Banana Crêpes and Chocolate Sauce
BANANA ICE CREAM makes 1 quart
6 large bananas, peeled
2 to 2½ cups cream
2 to 2½ cups milk
1 cup sugar
½ vanilla bean, split
10 large egg yolks
Pinch of kosher salt
CRÊPE FILLING
Banana purée (reserved from above)
About 9 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Few drops of lemon juice
6 Dessert crêpes
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1½ to 2 cups sweetened whipped cream
36 to 42 candied morello cherries or maraschino cherries
Here’s our nod to the old drive-in days and a dessert I loved as a kid. All the components for this dessert can be made ahead, and in fact the crêpes must be assembled and frozen before serving. Once sliced, the crêpes resemble slices of banana, so when you make the crêpes, be sure to allow them to brown and spot slightly to give them the look of a banana peel.
FOR THE BANANA ICE CREAM: Place the bananas, 2 cups of the cream, 2 cups of the milk, and ½ cup of the sugar in a large saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pan and add the pod. Cover the bananas with a piece of paper towel (to keep them submerged) and heat slowly for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not simmer the mixture; keep it just under that point, so that the bananas poach in the hot liquid. Pierce the bananas with a knife; they should be soft but not mushy. Remove the paper towel and vanilla bean and discard.
Remove the bananas from the pan and drain them well. Strain the poaching liquid through a chinois. There should be 4 cups of liquid; if not, add the difference in additional cream and/or milk. Place the bananas and any bits of banana left in the strainer in a food processor and blend well, then scrape the purée through a tamis. You should have about 2 cups of banana purée. Reserve this to use for the crêpe filling.
Place the strained poaching liquid in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer.
Meanwhile, place the egg yolks in a bowl. Whisk in the remaining ½ cup sugar and the salt and whisk until the yolks have thickened slightly and lightened in color.
Whisk about one third of the hot cream into the yolks to temper them, then return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook the custard over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it has thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Immediately pour the custard into a bowl set in an ice-water bath, and stir occasionally until the custard has cooled.
Strain the custard and refrigerate until it is very cold (for the creamiest texture, refrigerate overnight).
Freeze the ice cream in an ice-cream machine. Remove to a covered container and place in the freezer. The ice cream is best the day it is made, but it can be kept for 2 days before serving.
FOR THE CRÊPE FILLING: The most precise way to make the filling is to weigh the banana purée and combine it with half its weight in white chocolate. Follow that formula if you have more or less than 2 cups of purée; for 2 cups use 9 ounces chocolate. It is important that the purée and the melted chocolate are the same temperature when they are combined.
Place the white chocolate in a metal bowl, set it over a saucepan of hot water, and heat gently, stirring, until melted and smooth.
Meanwhile, warm the banana purée (a microwave works well for this).
Transfer the purée to a food processor, add the warm melted white chocolate, and process to blend. Add the salt and lemon juice and process just to combine. Refrigerate the purée for several hours, or up to 2 days, to firm.
Trim the edges of the crêpes to square them. Spoon one sixth of the cooled filling across the lower third of a crêpe, shaping it into a rectangle approximately 5 inches by 2 inches. Turn up the bottom of the crêpe to encase the filling and gently roll up the crêpe into a cylinder. Roll the filled crêpe up in plastic wrap and twist the ends of the wrap to help mold the shape. Repeat with the remaining crêpes and filling. Place the finished crêpes in the freezer for at least a few hours or up to 2 weeks. (Each frozen crêpe will serve 2 to 3 people, depending on its length after trimming.)
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE: Place the chocolate in a bowl. Bring the cream and corn syrup to a boil. Pour the hot liquid over the chocolate and allow it to sit for a few minutes to melt the chocolate, then stir until smooth. The sauce can be refrigerated for several days.
TO COMPLETE: Remove the banana crêpes from the freezer. Unwrap, trim the ends, and cut each one into ⅜-inch slices. Place 3 slices in a row across the center of each plate. Let them sit at room temperature for about 5 minutes to thaw slightly.
Meanwhile, warm the chocolate sauce and pour it in a squeeze bottle. Place the whipped cream in a pastry bag fitted with a star tip.
Pipe chocolate sauce around the crêpe slices. Top each slice of crêpe with a small scoop of the banana ice cream. Pipe a rosette of whipped cream onto each scoop of ice cream. Garnish each rosette with a cherry and serve immediately.
makes 12 servings
Oven-Roasted Maui Pineapple with Fried Pastry Cream and Whipped Crème Fraîche
FRIED PASTRY CREAM
1 cup milk
¼ cup sugar
⅓ cup plus ½ cup all-purpose flour
3 large egg yolks
Small pinch of salt
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup milk
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs, see Sources) or dried bread crumbs, finely ground in a blender and sifted through a strainer
Canola oil for deep-frying
PINEAPPLE
1 ripe pineapple
1 vanilla bean, split
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
CARAMEL SAUCE
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
⅓ cup sugar
½ cup crème fraîche, whipped
FOR THE PASTRY CREAM: Line a small loaf pan (6 to 7 inches by 3 inches, measured across the bottom) with plastic wrap. Whisk the milk, sugar, ⅓ cup of the flour, the egg yolks, and salt together in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens. Continue cooking for another 2 to 3 minutes, to cook the flour completely. Add the vanilla extract and remove from the heat.
Pour the pastry cream into the loaf pan. Smooth the surface with an offset spatula; the pastry cream should be about ¾ inch thick. Cover the pastry cream with plastic wrap, pressing it directly against the surface of the cream to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate for a couple of hours, or until firm.
Cut the pastry cream into eight 1¼-inch rounds. Return the pastry cream to the refrigerator.
TO CUT THE PINEAPPLE: You should visualize a rack of lamb or other meat when trimming the pineapple to resemble one. You will be cutting two “racks,” one from each side of the pineapple. Each rack will have 4 “bones.” The roasted “racks” are presented whole at the table, then cut into 8 individual “chops.”
Cut off the top and bottom of the pineapple. Cut 8 small green tips from the top and reserve for garnish. Cut the pineapple lengthwise in half and lay the halves on a cutting board, skin side down.
Cut a V-shaped wedge in each pineapple half to remove the core by cutting at a 45-degree angle from the outer edge of the core on one side and moving downward toward the center of the pineapple. Leave a thin layer of pineapple at the bottom; do not cut all the way to the skin or you risk splitting the skin. Repeat on the opposite side to complete the V and remove and discard the core. Repeat with the remaining pineapple half.
Work with one pineapple half at a time. If you are right-handed, it will be easier to trim away the pineapple flesh from the right to form the “bones” (if you are left-handed work from the other side). Cut away almost all of the fruit from the right half of the pineapple, leaving only a small layer of fruit on the skin. Trim the outer edge of the skin to make a flap about 4 inches wide, with a straight edge.
TO CUT THE “BONES”: Make 8 parallel cuts about ¾ inch apart in the trimmed skin, cutting with a sharp knife in a downward motion from the remaining pineapple flesh toward the outer edge. Do not use a sawing motion, as it might tear the flesh. Then snap the skin downward and break off the first “bone”; leave the second, break the third, and so on. You will be left with 4 “bones.”
TO TRIM THE “EYE”: The remaining pineapple flesh is the “eye,” or “meaty” portion, of your rack. Trim away some of the skin still encircling the fruit to round the pineapple so it resembles the shape of chops. Repeat with the second piece of pineapple.
TO COOK THE “RACKS”: Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod and reserve the seeds for the caramel sauce. Melt the butter in a heavy ovenproof skillet that will hold the pineapple pieces in one layer and add the pineapple, fruit side down. Cook over medium heat for about 8 minutes, or until browned, rotating the racks to brown the fruit all around the edges. (If the butter starts to burn at any point, remove the pineapple and replace with new butter.)
Turn the pineapple fruit side up, add the vanilla pod, and place the skillet in the oven. Bake, basting occasionally with the pan juices, for 10 minutes. Turn the pineapple fruit side down and bake, basting occasionally, for 30 minutes. Turn the pineapple fruit side up and bake, continuing to baste, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the fruit is soft and a rich brown color.
Transfer the pineapple to a plate and reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Clean the skillet. (The pineapple can also be prepared to this point several hours ahead and finished just before serving.)
TO COMPLETE: For the caramel sauce, in a small bowl, combine the reserved vanilla seeds with the butter and blend well. Heat the sugar in the skillet over medium heat until it caramelizes. Stir in the vanilla/butter mixture. Return the pineapple to the pan, fruit side down, baste with the caramel syrup, and return to the oven for 5 to 10 minutes, to warm through.
MEANWHILE, COOK THE PASTRY CREAM: Place the remaining ½ cup flour, the milk, and panko in three small bowls. Heat the oil in a deep heavy saucepan to 325°F. Coat each round of pastry cream with flour, patting off any excess, dip in the milk, turning to coat, and coat with the panko crumbs. Repeat with the milk and panko. Deep-fry until browned on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes in all. Remove to paper towels to drain.
To serve, turn the pineapple “racks” fruit side up and present in the skillet at the table. Remove to a cutting board and cut into individual “chops.” Place a spoonful of caramel sauce in the center of each serving plate. Top with a round of fried pastry cream. Garnish each pineapple chop with a quenelle, or small oval scoop, of crème fraîche and a small green tip from the pineapple top. Serve warm.
makes 8 servings
Here is another way we mimic in dessert what we serve earlier in the meal, in this case the salmon chop. The pineapple bakes for a very long time, so the sugars in the fruit develop a great complexity. We serve the pineapple on a base of fried pastry cream.
HONEY-VANILLA ICE CREAM makes 1 quart
2 cups milk
2 cups cream
¼ cup sugar
½ vanilla bean, split
10 large egg yolks
½ cup wildflower honey
ROASTED FIGS
18 ripe figs (Black Mission, Brown Turkey, Adriatic)
4 vanilla beans, split and cut into 2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons (1½ ounces) unsalted butter
1½ teaspoons sugar
If you like figs, this is an almost unbeatable combination—hot fruit, roasted briefly with vanilla beans, and cold ice cream. Simple.
FOR THE WILDFLOWER HONEY—VANILLA ICE CREAM: In a saucepan, combine the milk, cream, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Scrape in the vanilla bean and add the pod. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and let the flavors infuse for 30 minutes. Rewarm the mixture.
Meanwhile, in a mixer or other metal bowl, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until thickened and lightened in color. Gradually whisk in one third of the warm milk mixture to temper the egg yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and stir over medium heat until the custard has thickened and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Pour the custard into a bowl set in an ice-water bath and stir in the honey to combine. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then strain it into a container and refrigerate at least 5 hours, or overnight (for the creamiest texture).
Freeze the cold custard in an ice cream machine. Remove to a covered container and freeze for several hours, or until hardened.
FOR THE ROASTED FIGS: Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Wash and dry the figs. Slice off and discard the tops. Make a small slit in the center of the top of each fig and insert a section of vanilla bean.
Melt the butter over medium heat in an ovenproof skillet large enough for all the figs to stand in one layer. Stir in the sugar to dissolve. Stand the figs in the butter and add any remaining vanilla beans to the pan. Place the pan in the oven for 10 minutes to heat the figs. The figs can be served warm or at room temperature.
TO COMPLETE: Place a scoop or quenelle of ice cream into each of six bowls. Arrange 3 of the figs (still with the vanilla beans) around each scoop. Drizzle the syrup remaining in the pan around the plates. Serve immediately.
makes 6 servings
CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ
3 large eggs, separated
⅓ cup plus ¼ cup sugar
⅔ cup milk
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Pinch of kosher salt
1 gelatin sheet, soaked in cold water to soften
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
COOKIES
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup whole-wheat pastry flour
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
3 packed tablespoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons honey
CINNAMON-STICK ICE CREAM makes 1 quart
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups milk
One 3-inch cinnamon stick, split lengthwise
¾ cup sugar
10 large egg yolks
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
Here a seductive disk of molten chocolate sits atop a frozen platform of cinnamon ice cream—for that hot-cold surprise—in a pool of chocolate sauce.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ: Place six 2- to 2½-inch ring molds (see Sources) on a parchment-lined baking sheet or line six 4-ounce soufflé molds or ramekins with plastic wrap.
The meringue should be folded into the chocolate mixture as soon as the chocolate mixture is completed; try to time the meringue and chocolate mixture so that they are ready at the same time.
Place the egg whites and ⅓ cup of the sugar in a metal mixer bowl and set it over a pan of gently simmering water. Whisk the mixture for 2 to 3 minutes, or until it is hot and foamy and the sugar has dissolved.
Transfer the bowl to the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip at medium speed for about 5 minutes, or until the meringue is cool to the touch, fluffy, and holds soft peaks.
Meanwhile, place the milk in a medium saucepan and sift the ¼ cup sugar, cocoa, flour, and salt into it. Whisk to combine, then whisk in the egg yolks. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, whisking, until it has thickened to the consistency of pudding. Continue to cook and whisk for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, or until it is thick and glossy. Squeeze the soaked gelatin sheet dry and add it to the chocolate mixture, whisking to combine. Remove from the heat and whisk in the chopped chocolate until it is melted. Transfer the chocolate mixture to a bowl. Whisk a spoonful of the meringue into the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining meringue.
Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Divide the velouté among the prepared molds by piping it into their centers and allowing it to spread and fill the molds; the mixture should be approximately ¾ inch high. Cover the veloutés and freeze them for several hours, or until completely frozen. They can be frozen for up to 2 weeks.
FOR THE COOKIES: Whisk both flours, the baking soda, cinnamon, and salt together.
In a mixer fitted with the paddle, beat together the butter, sugars, and honey. Add the dry ingredients and mix until well combined.
Place the cookie dough on a Silpat, (see Sources), pat it down slightly, and cover with a sheet of parchment paper. Roll the dough into a thin sheet approximately 1/16 to ⅛ inch thick. Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and place in the freezer for at least an hour, or until frozen; the dough can be kept frozen for several weeks.
When you are ready to bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove the sheet of dough from the freezer; pull away and discard the parchment paper. Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cookies are set but not crisp.
Remove the pan from the oven and, using a round cutter, cut out rounds about ½ to ¾ inch larger than the chocolate veloutés. You will have about 8 to 10 cookies. (Leave the trimmings on the pan, and eat them as a treat later.) Return the pan to the oven for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the cookies are a rich golden brown; do not allow the cookies to become too brown, because they will be baked again. Cool the cookies on the pan for about 10 minutes, then carefully remove them to an airtight container. They can be stored for up to a week.
FOR THE CINNAMON-STICK ICE CREAM: Combine the cream, milk, and cinnamon stick in a saucepan, bring to a simmer, cover, and remove from the heat. Let infuse for 30 minutes.
Remove the cinnamon stick from the cream mixture and add half the sugar. Return to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar until they have thickened slightly and lightened in color. Gradually whisk in one third of the hot liquid to temper the yolks. Return the mixture to the saucepan and heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Pour the custard into a bowl set over ice water and stir occasionally until the custard has cooled.
Strain the cooled custard into a container, cover, and refrigerate for at least a few hours, until cold, or overnight (for the creamiest texture).
Freeze the ice cream in an ice-cream machine. Line a pan with plastic wrap, transfer the ice cream to the pan, and spread it into a ¾-inch layer. Cover the ice cream and place in the freezer for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days.
When the ice cream is frozen, cut it into disks that are the same size as the chocolate veloutés. Return to the freezer.
TO COMPLETE: Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Remove the veloutés from the freezer. Push them gently from the top to release them from the ring molds, or remove them from the soufflé molds and peel off and discard the plastic wrap. Center each velouté on a cookie and place on a baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake for 14 minutes. The veloutés should look set but still be soft in the center. To test, insert a metal skewer into the center of a velouté for a few seconds, then touch it to your lip; it should feel warm. If the center is still cold, return the veloutés to the oven. Don’t overbake; an overcooked velouté will begin to crack.
Place a spoonful of chocolate sauce on each serving plate. Center an ice-cream disk in the sauce and top with a cookie and velouté. Dust the top of each dessert with powdered sugar. Serve immediately (after about 3 minutes, they will begin to lose their shape).
makes 6 servings
Slow-Baked Meringues with Crème Anglaise and Bittersweet Chocolate
MERINGUES
5 large egg whites
1 cup sugar
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¾ cup heavy cream
½ cup meringue (reserved from above)
CRÈME ANGLAISE makes 2 cups
½ vanilla bean, split
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
5 large egg yolks
⅓ cup sugar
CHOCOLATE TUILES makes 4 dozen
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 large egg white
Block of bittersweet chocolate for chocolate shavings
Mint Oil, in a squeeze bottle
Fleur de sel
This is a classical French preparation, further enhanced and refined. The meringue is very finely textured (before it’s cooked it should look exactly like shaving cream) and we put a surprise inside—a chocolate ganache. To take it to the next level, we set a “salad” of chocolate shavings on top, and, as a salad typically requires some sort of dressing, we drizzle mint oil on the chocolate and finish it with some crystals of fleur de sel, which enhance the sweetness.
FOR THE MERINGUES: Preheat the oven to 250°F. Spray six 4-ounce soufflé molds or foil cups (about 3 inches wide) with nonstick spray.
Combine the egg whites and sugar in a metal mixer bowl. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and whisk gently until the whites are warm and the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove the bowl from the heat and place it on the mixer stand. Use the whisk attachment to beat the whites until soft peaks form.
Reserve ½ cup of the meringue for the mousse. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip with the remaining meringue. Pipe the meringue into the centers of the 6 molds, allowing the filling to move outward from the center as you pipe to fill them. Smooth the tops of the meringues and place the molds in a deep baking pan. Pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. If you are using foil cups and they float in the water, place a baking sheet or pan over them to hold them down.
Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 20 minutes, or until the meringues are set but still moist. Remove the molds from the baking dish and refrigerate for 1 hour, or until firm.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE: Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Bring ½ cup of the cream to a simmer and pour over the chocolate. Let sit for a minute, then stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Let cool to room temperature.
Beat the remaining ¼ cup cream to soft peaks. Fold the reserved meringue, and then the whipped cream, into the chocolate mixture.
TO FILL THE MERINGUES: Leaving the baked meringues in the cups, gently scoop out the center of each to make a rounded cavity, leaving a ½- to ¾-inch wall of meringue. (A one-ounce ice-cream scoop works well for this.) Using a spoon or pastry bag, fill the cavities with the mousse; you will have some extra mousse. Return the meringues to the refrigerator to chill for at least 1 hour to set, or for up to a day.
FOR THE CRÈME ANGLAISE: Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into a saucepan, add the pod, milk, and cream, and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat and let cool to room temperature to infuse the flavors.
Add half the sugar to the milk mixture and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining sugar in a bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in one third of the hot milk mixture to temper the yolks and then return the mixture to the saucepan. Stir the custard with a wooden spoon over low heat until it thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Immediately pour into a bowl set in an ice-water bath and stir it occasionally until cool. Strain the sauce and refrigerate until ready to serve; it can be made a few days ahead.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE TUILES: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a bowl, cream the butter and sugar. Sift the flour and cocoa together. Beat half the cocoa mixture into the butter mixture, add the egg white, and then add the remaining cocoa mixture.
Gut out a hollow round stencil with a 2¼-inch diameter. The top of a plastic container works well for this.
Place a Silpat (see Sources) on the counter. Place the stencil in one corner of the Silpat and holding it flat against the Silpat, scoop some of the batter onto the back of an offset spatula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil. Run the spatula over the top to remove any excess batter. Repeat to fill the Silpat. You will need only 6 tuiles for the recipe; extra batter can be frozen.
Place the filled Silpat on a baking sheet and bake for 8 minutes, or until the tuiles are set. Let the tuiles cool to room temperature, then remove them from the Silpat using a small narrow spatula. Store the cookies in an airtight container until ready to assemble the dessert.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE “SALAD”: You will need about a tablespoon of shavings for each dessert. If you have a large block of chocolate, pull the blade of a large chef’s knife over the top of the block of chocolate toward you at about a 45-degree angle to create shavings of chocolate. Adjust the angle of the blade as necessary. If you have a smaller piece, use a vegetable peeler to peel off shavings. If the shavings are too brittle and the pieces are too small, let the chocolate warm up very slightly in a warm spot. Keep the shavings in a cool place.
TO COMPLETE: Invert the meringues onto a paper towel and unmold them. (The towel will absorb any excess liquid.) Dip a 2¼-inch cutter in hot water, center it over a meringue, and cut down from the top to even the sides. Repeat with the remaining meringues.
Spoon some crème anglaise onto each plate. Place a meringue in the center of the sauce and lay a chocolate tuile over the top. Squeeze dots of the mint oil over the custard. Stack some chocolate shavings on each tuile, drizzle the chocolate “salad” with mint oil, and sprinkle with fleur de sel.
pictured here makes 6 servings
PEARS
8 ripe but firm Comice pears, peeled and cored
1 recipe Poaching Liquid
CHESTNUT CREAM
6 ounces vacuum-packed unsweetened chestnuts or peeled roasted fresh chestnuts (see Note)
1 cup heavy cream
¼ vanilla bean, split
¼ cup pear poaching liquid: reserved from above
Pinch of kosher salt
PEAR CHIPS
1 Bosc pear
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
4 to 8 sheets filo dough
1½ cups Clarified Butter, melted
½ cup sugar
1 recipe Crème Anglaise
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
This is pastry chef Stephen Durfee’s interpretation of a traditional strudel. One of the elements I like most in this dish is the crystallized fruit chip, a technique I learned in France from chef Michel Trama.
The main components of the dish, the poached pears, the chestnut cream, and the pear chips, can all be prepared a day ahead (the cream must be made in advance), and the strudels can be assembled a few hours before they are baked.
FOR THE PEARS: Slice off the bottoms of the pears so that they will stand upright. Cut off the necks of the pears at the point where the fruit begins to round. Using a 2-inch ring mold or round cutter, push straight down on the pears to cut out cylinders. Use an apple corer to remove the cores from the cylinders.
Place the pears in a saucepan with enough poaching liquid to cover them. Cover with a parchment paper lid and bring the liquid to a simmer. Poach the pears over low heat for 1 to 1½ hours, or until there is no resistance when they are pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. (The time will vary depending on the ripeness of your pears.) Remove from the heat. Transfer about ¼ cup of the syrup to a measuring cup and set aside for the chestnut cream. The pears can be poached up to a day ahead; place them, along with their syrup, in a container and cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate.
FOR THE CHESTNUT CREAM: Combine the chestnuts and cream in a saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pan and add the pod. Bring the cream to a simmer over low heat and cook the chestnuts for about 45 minutes, or until they are very soft.
Remove the pan from the heat and discard the vanilla bean. Pour the chestnuts and cream into the bowl of a food processor. Blend for about 3 minutes, or until smooth. There may be a few bits of chestnut that will not be incorporated; they will be removed later. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and with the motor running, add the reserved pear poaching liquid a little at a time until the mixture is creamy but still has enough body to hold some shape. You may not need all the liquid. The cream will be very soft while it is still hot, but it will thicken dramatically as it cools.
Scrape the chestnut cream through a tamis set over a bowl. Season with the salt. This will make about 1 cup of chestnut cream. Place the cream in a container, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
FOR THE PEAR CHIPS: On a mandoline, slice the unpeeled Bose pear lengthwise as thin as possible*, the slices should be almost transparent. Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a medium saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat to low and, one by one, drop the pear slices into the hot syrup. Cook until they are translucent, about 8 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pear slices cool in the syrup.
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat (see Sources).
Remove the pear slices from the syrup, quickly blot the slices on paper towels to remove any excess syrup, and lay them on the baking sheet. Dry the pear chips in the oven for about 30 minutes. To test, remove a chip from the pan and let cool. It should be crisp; if not, continue to bake the slices for a little longer. Let cool, then store the chips in an airtight container. These chips can be made a day ahead. You’ll only need 8 for this recipe; enjoy the rest as a snack.
TO ASSEMBLE THE PEAR STRUDELS: Remove the pear cylinders from the poaching liquid, lay on paper towels, and cover them with a second layer of paper towels. Allow to drain thoroughly, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, transfer the poaching liquid to a saucepan, bring to a simmer, and reduce until it is thickened to a syrup consistency. Pour the reduced syrup into a squeeze bottle and set it aside at room temperature.
When you are ready to assemble the strudels, have the poached pear cylinders, filo, clarified butter, sugar, and a pastry brush ready. Lay the stack of filo dough on a work surface and cover with plastic wrap and then a damp towel to keep the leaves from drying out as you work. Remove one sheet of filo and place it with a long side in front of you. Brush the entire sheet with clarified butter and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Cover with a second sheet of filo, brush with the clarified butter, and sprinkle with sugar again. Repeat the process until you have used 4 sheets of filo.
Trim off any dried edges of filo. Lay a pear cylinder across the bottom right of the filo stack, leaving a ⅛-inch border on the right. Cut a vertical strip of filo using a sharp knife, leaving a ⅛-inch border of filo to the left of the pear as well. Roll up the cylinder in the strip, wrapping the filo around it. Brush the wrapped strudel on all sides with more clarified butter, particularly at the seam to seal it well. Repeat this process with the remaining pear cylinders, stacking more filo if necessary. Place the rolled pears seam side down on a baking sheet and cover lightly with plastic wrap. The pears can be prepared to this point and refrigerated for a few hours, until ready to bake.
TO COMPLETE: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat.
Place the pear strudels seam side down on the baking sheet and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the filo is a rich golden brown.
Pour ¼ cup of the crème anglaise into a squeeze bottle.
Lay a hot pear strudel on each serving dish. Place two small quenelles, or oval scoops, of chestnut cream to the right of the strudel, one leaning against the other. Nestle a pear chip between the chestnut cream and the strudel. Squeeze a series of dots of crème anglaise to the left of each strudel. Squeeze a small dot of pear syrup into the center of each dot of crème anglaise. Dust the strudels with powdered sugar. Serve the remaining crème anglaise in a sauceboat.
makes 8 servings
Butter and flour for the tart pan
⅓ recipe Pine Nut Crust
LEMON SABAYON
2 large eggs, cold
2 large egg yolks, cold
¾ cup sugar
½ cup fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
HONEYED MASCARPONE CREAM
½ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
1 tablespoon honey
This tart is best served at room temperature, within a few hours of assembling, but if necessary, it can be refrigerated and served cold.
FOR THE CRUST: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter and flour a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom and refrigerate it while the oven preheats.
Remove the tart pan from the refrigerator. Use your fingertips to press the chilled dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim off any excess dough.
Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes, then rotate the shell and continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the shell is golden brown. Remove the shell from the oven and let it cool while you make the filling. There may be some cracks in the shell; they will not affect the tart.
FOR THE LEMON SABAYON: Bring about 1½ inches of water to a boil in a pot that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the mixing bowl you will be using for the sabayon. Meanwhile, in a large metal bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks, and sugar for about 1 minute, or until the mixture is smooth.
Set the bowl over the pot and, using a large whisk, whip the mixture while you turn the bowl, for even heating. After about 2 minutes, when the eggs are foamy and have thickened, add one third of the lemon juice. Continue to whisk vigorously and when the mixture thickens again, add another one third of the lemon juice. Whisk until the mixture thickens again, then add the remaining lemon juice. Continue whisking vigorously, still turning the bowl, until the mixture is thickened, light in color, and the whisk leaves a trail in the bottom of the bowl. The total cooking time should be approximately 8 to 10 minutes.
Turn off the heat but leave the bowl over the water as you add the butter: Whisk in the butter a piece at a time. The sabayon may loosen slightly, but it will thicken and set as it cools. Pour the warm sabayon into the tart shell and place the pan on a baking sheet.
Preheat the broiler. While the sabayon is still warm, place the tart under the broiler. Leaving the door open, brown the top of the sabayon, rotating the tart if necessary for even color; do not leave the oven—this will happen in a few seconds. Remove the tart from the broiler and let it sit at least 1 hour before serving. Serve at room temperature or cold.
FOR THE HONEYED MASCARPONE CREAM: In a bowl set Over ice, whip the cream until it is frothy. Add the mascarpone and honey and continue to whisk for about 2 minutes, or until the cream is thick and creamy. Keep refrigerated until serving.
TO COMPLETE: Serve the slices of the tart with the mascarpone cream on the side.
makes 8 servings
2 cups (10 ounces) pine nuts
⅓ cup sugar
3 cups all-purpose flour
16 tablespoons (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Since the recipe uses only one egg, it would be difficult to cut down, but the extra dough can be frozen for future use.
Place the pine nuts in a food processor and pulse a few times. Add the sugar and flour and continue to pulse until the nuts are finely ground. Place the mixture in a mixing bowl (the dough can be mixed by hand or in a mixer fitted with the paddle).
Add the softened butter, the egg, and vanilla extract and mix to incorporate all the ingredients. Divide the dough into three parts. Wrap each piece in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes before using. The dough can be frozen for future use.
makes enough dough for three 9-inch tarts
This is an elegant dessert that is very easy, can be done ahead of time, and tastes absolutely exquisite. The lemon sabayon is a lot like a lemon curd; the difference is you cook the eggs over hot water until you develop those nice big trails and ribbons, then add the butter, which helps it set up as it cools to room temperature. The honey in the mascarpone cream perfectly balances the lemon in the tart, a flavor combination I didn’t have to look any further for than a cup of hot tea.
Crème de Farine with Poached Apples and Ice Cream
POACHED APPLES
5 large Golden Delicious apples
4 cups Poaching Liquid
1 cinnamon stick
“CANDIED APPLE” ICE CREAM
4 cups apple juice (from about 8 Golden Delicious apples; or store-bought)
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
¾ cup sugar
¼ vanilla bean, split
10 large egg yolks
CINNAMON TWIST COOKIES
4 ounces Puff Pastry (recipe follows)
1 large egg, beaten for egg glaze
Cinnamon sugar: 3 tablespoons sugar mixed with ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
CRÈME DE FARINE
3½ cups water
½ cinnamon stick
1 star anise
2 allspice berries
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup uncooked farina, such as Cream of Wheat (10-minute cooking)
¼ cup sugar
⅔ cup mascarpone
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup milk
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs; see Sources) or dried bread crumbs, finely ground in a blender and sifted through a medium-mesh sieve
About 3 cups canola oil, for deep-frying
Pastry chef Stephen Durfee created this “Cream of Wheat” dish after noticing that some Cream of Wheat that he’d cooked for his four-year-old son firmed up in the pan into a perfect disk, and he thought it would make a perfect base for a dessert. This is a terrific dessert because you’ve got the hot Cream of Wheat and the cold ice cream, and you’ve got a variety of textures, the crispy exterior of the Cream of Wheat disk, the luxurious, creamy ice cream, and the crunchy cookies, finished with a sauce of the reduced apple-poaching liquid.
FOR THE POACHED APPLES: Cut two ¾-inch rings from the center of each apple (you will have one extra). Remove the apple cores with an apple corer or small cutter. Cut each slice into an even round with a 2¼-inch cutter. Place the rings in a saucepan and add the poaching liquid. Cover the apples with a parchment lid, bring to just under a simmer over low heat, and poach the apple rings for 25 to 35 minutes, or until they are tender and translucent. Remove the apple rings and drain them on paper towels. The rings can be poached a day ahead and refrigerated in a covered plastic container.
Add the cinnamon stick to the poaching liquid and simmer to reduce the liquid to about 1¼ cups. Strain the syrup into a covered container and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or up to several days.
FOR THE “CANDIED APPLE” ICE CREAM: Boil the apple juice in a saucepan, skimming as necessary, until it is reduced to about 1 cup. When the liquid is reduced to the proper consistency, you will see small bubbles breaking across the entire surface. Remove from the heat and let cool while you make the custard.
Combine the milk, cream, and half the sugar in a large saucepan, scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean in the pan, and add the pod. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the yolks with the remaining sugar until the mixture thickens and lightens in color. While whisking the yolks, gradually pour one third of the hot cream mixture into the yolks to temper them. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard has thickened and coats the back of the spoon.
Pour the custard through a chinois into a metal bowl set in an ice-water bath. Add the reduced apple juice and cool, stirring occasionally. When the custard has cooled, it can be refrigerated overnight before freezing (which will result in the creamiest texture) or frozen immediately.
Freeze the ice cream in an ice-cream machine, then transfer it to an airtight container and place it in the freezer to harden. The ice cream is best eaten within a day but can be made several days ahead.
FOR THE CINNAMON TWIST COOKIES: On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry into a square approximately 6 inches by 6 inches. Lightly brush the bottom half of the dough with the egg glaze and sprinkle it with the cinnamon sugar. Fold the top half of the dough over and roll the dough into a rectangle about 10 inches by 8 inches and Vs inch thick. Place the dough on a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill for about an hour, or until it is very firm.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Stack two baking sheets and line the top one with a piece of parchment (two pans stacked together will result in more even heat when baking).
Cut the dough crosswise into ¼-inch strips. Starting in the center of each strip and working toward the ends, twist the dough in opposite directions to form spiral-shaped cookies. Place the cookies on the doubled baking sheets and press the ends down flat against the parchment so they will hold their shape and not unwind as they bake.
Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown and crisp. Cool slightly, then remove from the pan and cut off the flattened ends. They can be stored in an airtight container for a couple of days.
FOR THE CRÈME DE FARINE: Line a 9-inch square baking pan with plastic wrap. Bring the water, cinnamon stick, star anise, and allspice to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan. Simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat. Cover and allow the spices to steep for 5 minutes.
Strain the liquid, measure out 3 cups, and return it to the saucepan. Add the salt and bring to a boil. Whisking constantly, pour in the farina and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until it is thickened. Whisk in the sugar, mascarpone, and butter and pour into the baking pan. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming and chill the crème de farine for at least 3 hours, or up to 3 days.
TO COMPLETE: If they’ve been refrigerated, bring the apple rings to room temperature.
Place the milk, flour, and crumbs in three separate bowls. Heat the oil to 350°F. in a pan for deep-frying. With a 2¼-inch cutter, cut out 9 rounds from the chilled farina. Dredge each disk in the flour, patting off any excess, dip into the milk, and coat in the crumbs. Fry the cakes, 3 at a time, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown, turning them over halfway through the cooking. Transfer the cooked farina to paper towels to drain. Be certain that the oil regains the proper temperature before adding the next batch.
Spoon some syrup into the center of each serving plate. Top each pool of syrup with a hot farina cake, an apple ring, and a quenelle, or scoop, of apple ice cream. Lean a cookie against each dessert and serve immediately.
pictured here makes 9 servings
DÉTREMPE
2¾ cups (12 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (4 ounces) cake flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup water
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
BEURRAGE
1 pound cold unsalted butter
¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (2 ounces) all-purpose flour
Flour for dusting
It’s important to adhere to the allotted resting time when making puff pastry. As you work, the dough will become more elastic as the gluten develops and the butter warms. Resting the dough in the refrigerator between rolling the “turns” allows the gluten to relax and the butter to firm. The more you make, the better—it freezes well and you can use it for many other dishes.
FOR THE DÉTREMPE: Sift both flours, the salt, and sugar into a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and with your fingers, rub it into the dry ingredients for several minutes, until it is well incorporated and the pieces of butter are about the size of gravel. Add the water and vinegar and mix with your hands and a rubber spatula just until the dough comes together. It should still be a shaggy mass. Pat the dough into an 8-inch square on a piece of parchment paper, cover with a piece of plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you make the beurrage.
FOR THE BEURRAGE: Place the butter on a cold surface, such as a marble slab, and pound it with a rolling pin to make it malleable. Fold it over itself once or twice and pound it again. Sprinkle the flour over the butter and use a plastic dough scraper to cut the flour into the butter. Then use the heel of your hand to knead the mixture for about 30 seconds to combine; the butter should have the same consistency as the détrempe. Form the beurrage into a 6-inch square.
Clean the work surface and dust it with flour. Lay the détrempe on the surface and mark a diamond shape in it, starting at the center of each side. Dust the dough lightly with flour. Roll out the edges (the triangles) of the dough so the points extend about 5 inches, leaving the center mound thicker than the edges.
Lay the beurrage on the diamond, adjusting its size to fit the dough as necessary. Fold the dough flaps over the beurrage, stretching them and overlapping them as necessary to totally encase the butter and form a square package. Seal the edges by pressing lightly with the rolling pin. Dust with flour.
Gently press the package into a rectangle approximately 8 inches by 10 inches. Place on a tray and clean the work surface. If it is warm and the butter seems soft, refrigerate it for 30 minutes before continuing.
FOR THE FIRST DOUBLE TURNS: Place the dough on the work surface with a short side facing you. Press down on the dough with the rolling pin, working from the top to the bottom to set its shape. Roll the dough, using even pressure, into a rectangle approximately 10 inches by 20 inches. It is important to keep the edges of the pastry straight as you roll, or you will not get even folds and the pastry will not rise as it should. As you roll, sprinkle the work surface with flour as necessary to prevent sticking (use a brush to dust off excess flour) and always be careful that the butter does not start to leak out from the sides. If it does, seal the hole and refrigerate the dough for several minutes before continuing.
Fold over both short ends of the dough to meet in the center, then fold one side over the other to form four layers. Turn the dough 90 degrees to the left, so that the fold is on your left, and roll and fold the puff pastry the same way a second time. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate it for 1 hour.
FOR THE SECOND DOUBLE TURNS: Place the chilled dough on the work surface with the fold to the left and roll and fold two more double turns as you did before. Wrap the dough and refrigerate again for at least 30 minutes.
FOR THE FINAL DOUBLE TURNS: Repeat the rolling and folding process two more times for a total of six turns. The puff pastry is ready to use. It can be cut into smaller pieces, wrapped well, and kept for a day in the refrigerator or frozen for longer storage.
makes about 2 pounds dough
CHOCOLATE FONDANT
5½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 large egg, separated
¼ cup sugar
7 tablespoons (3½ ounces) unsalted butter, well softened
⅔ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons very hot strong brewed coffee
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
¼ cup currants, soaked in hot water for about 30 minutes, or until plump, drained, and dried
¼ cup toasted sliced, blanched almonds, finely chopped
GANACHE
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
¼ cup heavy cream
CHOCOLATE DENTELLES makes 4 dozen
1 cup toasted sliced blanched almonds
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons corn syrup
¼ cup sugar
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
SABLÉ COOKIES makes 8 dozen
14 tablespoons (7 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
⅔ cup sugar
1 large egg yolk
2½ cups all-purpose flour
½ recipe Crème Anglaise
1½ teaspoons coffee extract, or to taste
This is a beautiful chocolate dessert featuring a chocolate fondant, which, as I make it, is like a mousse only lighter, creamier, more refined. It’s also less stable than a mousse and will break down if it’s left out for too long. Although the techniques used in this recipe are not difficult, it’s imperative that the ingredients for the fondant be at the proper temperatures. If not, the mixture will separate and you will not be able to recombine it. Dentelle, “lace” in French, refers here to the lace cookie, halved and resting on top of each fondant.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE FONDANT: Place 6 ring molds (2 inches wide by 2 inches high; see Sources) on a parchment-lined baking sheet. At the end of the recipe, you will need to use a blowtorch to release the fondant from the molds; if you do not have a blowtorch, line the inside of each ring mold with a strip of clear acetate (available at artists’ supplies stores) or with parchment paper to enable you to lift off the ring before serving.
Place the chocolate in a metal bowl, set it over a saucepan of hot water, and heat gently, stirring, until melted and smooth. Keep hot over the hot water.
In another metal bowl, whisk the egg white until it begins to hold a shape, then gradually whisk in the sugar. Continue to whip until the meringue holds a shape, 4 to 5 minutes.
Place the softened butter in a bowl and whisk until it is smooth and creamy.
Place the cream in a medium bowl and whip it to soft peaks.
Add the hot coffee to the chocolate and stir to combine. (Both the coffee and the chocolate must be hot, or the mixture will seize.) Remove the bowl from the heat and let the chocolate cool slightly, just enough so that when you add the butter, it will combine with rather than melt into the chocolate; the chocolate should still be quite warm.
Working quickly, whisk the egg yolks and then the butter into the chocolate. With a spatula, fold in the meringue and then the heavy cream. Add the currants and almonds, mixing just to combine.
Transfer the fondant mixture to a pastry bag (without a tip) and pipe into the ring molds. (Piping rather than spooning the mixture helps prevent air pockets in the fondant.) The mixture should come to the top of the molds. Using an offset spatula, smooth the tops level with the rims of the molds. Refrigerate the fondants for at least 4 hours to firm. The fondants can be prepared to this point and refrigerated for up to 5 days, then glazed on the day they will be served; or they can be refrigerated just to firm, glazed, and then refrigerated for up to 5 days.
FOR THE GANACHE: Put the chocolate in a small bowl. Heat the heavy cream to just under a boil and pour it over the chocolate. Let sit for a minute to melt the chocolate, then stir to combine the ganache.
Remove the fondants from the refrigerator and cover the top of each one with a spoonful of glaze, smoothing it to the rim of the mold. Refrigerate the fondants for at least 1 hour before serving (see above).
FOR THE CHOCOLATE DENTELLES: Pulse the nuts and cocoa in a food processor to break up the nuts, then process until the nuts are in small pieces about the size of fine gravel. Remove to a bowl.
Place the milk, corn syrup, sugar, and butter in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, and cook until the mixture reaches a temperature of 220°F.
Stir the nuts and cocoa into the hot milk mixture. Stir for a few seconds to combine, then remove from the heat. Pour half the dentelle mixture onto a large sheet of parchment paper, cover with another sheet, and roll out as thin as possible. Lift the parchment sheets onto a baking sheet and place in the freezer (the batter must be frozen before you can remove the top sheet of parchment). Repeat with the remaining dentelle batter. Each sheet of batter makes about 24 cookies; they can be kept in the freezer for several weeks. For smaller batches, just cut through the parchment paper once the batter is frozen and store in smaller quantities.
TO BAKE THE DENTELLES: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove a sheet of batter from the freezer and pull off and discard the top sheet of parchment paper. Place the batter, still on the bottom sheet of parchment, on a baking sheet and bake for about 12 minutes. To test for doneness, cut off a small piece of the cookie and let cool slightly; it should harden in a few seconds. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool slightly.
Cut out the dentelles with a 2½-inch round cutter, then cut each disk in half. If the cookies harden before you can cut them, return them to the oven to resoften. Let the dentelles cool, then store them in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
FOR THE SABLÉ COOKIES: This recipe will make about 8 dozen cookies. Although extra baked cookies can be frozen, for better results, freeze the uncooked dough and then bake when desired. The frozen dough will keep for several weeks.
In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until smooth. Add the egg yolk and beat well, then mix in the flour until combined. Remove the dough from the mixer and divide it into quarters. One at a time, place each portion on a large piece of parchment paper, cover with another sheet, and roll into a thin sheet, about 1/16 inch thick. Place the parchment-wrapped dough on a baking sheet and place in the freezer for 30 minutes or so to harden completely.
To bake the sablés, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove a sheet of sablé dough from the freezer, peel off the top sheet of parchment, and use it to line a baking sheet. Place the sheet of cookies on a cutting board or work surface. Using a 2-inch cutter, cut the dough into rounds. (Or, if your ring molds are slightly larger or smaller, cut out rounds the same diameter as the molds.) Place the cookies ½ inch apart on the baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the cookies from the oven and let cool. Store them in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
Mix the crème anglaise with the coffee extract and refrigerate.
TO COMPLETE: Place each fondant on a sablé cookie. Briefly run a blow-torch around the mold just to release the fondant and remove the ring; or, if you used acetate, just lift off the ring. Place a spoonful of crème anglaise on each serving plate and top with the fondant. Press 2 pieces of the chocolate dentelles into the top of each dessert to garnish.
pictured here makes 6 servings
RED BEET ICE CREAM
2 pounds red beets, peeled and quartered
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups milk
¾ cup sugar
8 large egg yolks
WALNUT SYRUP AND CANDIED WALNUTS
2 cups Poaching Liquid
8 ounces walnut halves, toasted and excess skins rubbed off
½ teaspoon kosher salt
CHOCOLATE CAKES
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, such as Valhrona Equitorial, chopped
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
BEET CHIPS
Canola oil for deep-frying
Flour for dusting
2 to 3 small red beets, sliced paper-thin on a mandoline (about 60 slices)
Kosher salt
Powdered sugar, in a shaker
This dessert has its origins in a cake my mother used to make for me. She put grated beets in it, which resulted in a deep, dark color. When I decided to create a dessert using beet ice cream, I knew I should serve it with this kind of chocolate cake. I’ve added more flavor and textural contrast in the form of toasted candied walnuts.
FOR THE RED BEET ICE CREAM: Put the beets through a vegetable juicer, reserving the pulp; you should have about 2 cups of juice. Place the juice in a saucepan and reduce over low heat, skimming as necessary, to about ¼ cup. Strain the liquid into a container, cover, and place in the refrigerator.
In a saucepan, combine the reserved beet pulp with the cream and milk. Bring to a simmer, cover, and remove from the heat for 30 minutes.
Strain the liquid and measure out 3 cups (discard any extra). Return it to the saucepan, add half the sugar and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar until they have thickened slightly and lightened in color. Gradually whisk about one third of the hot liquid into the yolks to temper them. Return the mixture to the saucepan and heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the custard has thickened and coats the back of the spoon. Pour the custard into a bowl set in an ice-water bath and let cool.
Strain the cooled custard into a container, cover, and refrigerate for a few hours, until cold, or overnight (for the creamiest texture).
Stir the reduced beet juice into the custard and freeze in an icecream machine. Remove the ice cream to a covered container and store in the freezer for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days.
FOR THE WALNUT SYRUP AND CANDIED WALNUTS: Bring the poaching liquid to a boil in a medium saucepan and add the walnuts. Lower the heat and simmer until the syrup is reduced to ⅔ cup.
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Strain the walnut syrup into a container, cover, and refrigerate. Spread the walnuts on the baking sheet and sprinkle with the salt. Toast in the oven for about 30 minutes. To test, remove a walnut and let cool—it should be crunchy; if not, continue baking the walnuts for a little longer. Let cool on the baking sheet. You will need 20 walnuts for this dessert; extra nuts can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature, or in a plastic bag in the freezer.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE CAKES: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray ten 4-ounce soufflé molds or foil cups with nonstick spray.
Melt the chocolate with the butter in a bowl set over a pot of hot water. Stir to combine, remove the bowl from the heat, and let the mixture cool to room temperature. (Keep the water hot over low heat.)
Whisk the eggs with the sugar in a metal mixer bowl over the hot water until the sugar is dissolved. Place the bowl on the mixer stand and whip until the eggs are cool and have tripled in volume. Fold in the cooled melted chocolate and then the whipped cream.
Spoon the batter (about 2 ounces each) into the prepared molds, place the molds in a baking pan, and add hot water to come about one third of the way up the sides of the molds. Bake for 10 minutes. Lay a piece of aluminum foil loosely over the pan and continue to bake the cakes for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the tops are set but still slightly shiny. Remove the cakes from the water bath and let cool at room temperature for several hours; do not refrigerate.
FOR THE BEET CHIPS: Heat the oil to 275°F. in a deep heavy pot. Flour the beet chips, a few at a time, and place them in the hot oil. As they fry, tiny bubbles will form around the beets, indicating moisture in the chips. As soon as the moisture has evaporated (at which point, the chips will be crisp), the chips will sink to the bottom of the pot. Remove them as they do, drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with salt. Keep the chips at room temperature until serving.
TO COMPLETE: Spoon some of the walnut syrup onto each serving plate. Unmold the cakes and center one, upside down, in each pool of the syrup (dip the molds in hot water to loosen the cakes if necessary). Arrange 2 candied walnuts on opposite sides of each cake and place a scoop or quenelle of red beet ice cream between them. Stack a small pile of beet chips over the ice cream and sprinkle the chips with powdered sugar.
makes 10 servings
