Caribbean Coast
The Atlantic Slope
Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo
Guápiles & Around
Siquirres
Puerto Limón
Moín
Northern Caribbean
Parismina
Parque Nacional Tortuguero
Tortuguero Village
Barra del Colorado
Southern Caribbean
Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere
Cahuita
Parque Nacional Cahuita
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita & Punta Uva
Manzanillo
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo
Sixaola
Turtles of the Caribbean
Caribbean Coast
Why Go?
The wildness of the Caribbean thwarted 16th-century Spaniards in their quest to settle here and isolated the region for centuries afterwards, making it distinctly different from the rest of Costa Rica. Influenced by indigenous peoples and West Indian immigrants, the Caribbean’s culture has blended slowly and organically.
It does take a little more effort to travel here to see the nesting turtles of Tortuguero, raft the Río Pacuare or dive the reefs off Manzanillo, but you’ll be glad you made the trip. Nature has thrived on this rugged and rustic coast – many visitors will meet resident sloths, hear the call of howler monkeys and spot alligators on the vast network of canals. Others tuck into the area’s unique flavors, such as jerk chicken, grilled snapper and rondón (spicy seafood gumbo); listen to the lilt of patois; and laze around on the uncrowded palm-lined beaches.
When to Go
A The biggest swells hit the southern Caribbean from December to March, and surfers descend.
A Turtle-nesting season from March to October means egg-laying and hatching spectacles in Tortuguero.
A December to April is dry season: the most popular but most expensive time to visit. May to December is also warm, but expect some rain.
Best Places to Stay
Caribbean Coast Highlights
1 Tortuguero Sliding silently through jungle canals in search of wildlife or volunteering to protect endangered sea turtles.
2 Río Pacuare Rafting the country’s most extreme river.
3 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca Sampling the culinary scene, lazing on the beach and partying.
4 Punta Uva Surfing or diving at Punta Uva’s pristine, tucked-away cove.
5 Cahuita Chilling out in rustic bliss, soaking up the Caribbean Creole culture and visiting Cahuita National Park.
6 Manzanillo Snorkeling the teeming reefs and adventuring through the dripping jungle.
7 Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo Witnessing the dramatic meeting of the murky Río Sucio and the crystal-clear Río Honduras.
8 Bribrí Visiting cacao farms and indigenous villages.
History
In 1502 Christopher Columbus spent a total of 17 days anchored off the coast of Puerto Limón on what would be his fourth and final voyage to the New World. He dropped anchor at an isle he baptized La Huerta (today known as Isla Uvita), loaded up on fresh water, and never returned.
For Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, this brief encounter foreshadowed the colonization that was to come. But it would be centuries before Europeans would fully dominate the area. Because of the difficult nature of the terrain (croc-filled swamps and steep mountain slopes) and the malaria delivered by relentless fleets of mosquitoes, the Spanish steadfastly avoided it. For hundreds of years, in fact, the area remained the province of indigenous ethnicities – the Miskito in the north and the Cabécar, Bribrí and Kèköldi in the south – along with a mix of itinerant Afro-Caribbean turtle hunters from Panama and Colombia.
It was the building of the railroad, beginning in 1871, that solidified the area’s West Indian accent, with the arrival of thousands of former Jamaican slaves in search of employment. The plan was to build a port at the site of a grand old lemon tree (hence the name Puerto Limón) on the Caribbean Sea, so that coffee barons in the Central Valley could more easily export their crops to Europe. The railway was intended to unify the country, but it was a source of segregation as well. Black people were not allowed to vote or travel freely around Costa Rica until 1949. Out of isolation, however, sprang an independent culture, with its own musical and gastronomic traditions, and even its own unique language, a Creole called Mekatelyu – which is still spoken today.
Parks & Reserves
Many refuges and parks line the Caribbean coast. These are some of the most popular.
Parque Nacional Cahuita A patch of coastal jungle home to armadillos, monkeys and sloths, while the protected reef is one of the most important on the coast.
Parque Nacional Tortuguero Jungle canals obscure snoozing caimans, while howler, spider and capuchin monkeys traipse overhead. The star attraction, however, are the sea turtles, which nest here from March to October.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo A rich rainforest and wetland tucked away along the country’s southeastern border, with rivers full of manatees, caimans and crocodiles.
8Getting There & Away
When traveling to Puerto Limón and the southern Caribbean, it’s easy enough to hop on any of the regular buses from San José. Buses also connect most towns along the coast, from Sixaola, on the Panamanian border, to Puerto Limón. The main roads are in good condition, so driving is also an option.
The north is a little trickier but easy enough with a little planning. Much of the area is only linked up by waterways, making boats the sole means of transport. Puerto Limón, Tortuguero, Parismina and Barra del Colorado all have landing strips, but only Tortuguero has daily commercial flights.
The Atlantic Slope
The idea was simple: build a port on the Caribbean coast and connect it to the Central Valley by railroad, thereby opening up important shipping routes for the country’s soaring coffee production. Construction began in 1871, through 150km of dense jungle and muddy mountainsides along the Atlantic slope. It took almost two decades to build the railroad, and the first 30km reportedly cost thousands of men their lives. But when the last piece of track was laid down in 1890, the economic forces it unleashed permanently changed Costa Rica (and the rest of Central America, for that matter). It was the dawn of the banana boom, an industry that would dominate life, politics and the environment in the region for almost a century.
Today, the railroad is no longer. Likewise, banana production is not as mighty as it once was, supplanted in many areas by pineapples and African oil palms.
Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo
Enter this under-explored national park (
%2206-5500, 2266-1883; adult/child $12/5; 
h8am-3:30pm) and you’ll have an idea of what Costa Rica looked like prior to the 1950s, when 75% of the country’s surface area was still covered by forest. Here, steep hills cloaked in impossibly tall trees are interrupted only by canyons and cascading rivers. It has extraordinary biodiversity due to the range of altitudes, from steamy 2906m cloud forest alongside Volcán Barva to lush, humid lowlands on the Caribbean slope. Its most incredible feature, however, is that the southernmost point of this massive park is only 30 minutes north of San José.
History
Braulio Carrillo was created in the 1970s as a unique compromise between conservationists and developers. At the time, the government had announced a plan to build a new highway that would connect the capital to Puerto Limón. Back then, San José’s only link to its most important port was via a crumbling railroad or a slow rural road through Cartago and Turrialba. The only feasible route for the new thoroughfare was along a low pass between the Barva and Irazú volcanoes – an area covered in primary forest. Conservationists were deeply worried about putting a road (and any associated development) in an area that served as San José’s watershed. So a plan was hatched: the road would be built, but the 475 sq km of land to either side of it would be set aside as a national park. Thus, in 1978, Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo was born.
2Activities
Birdwatching in the park is excellent, and commonly seen species include parrots, toucans and hummingbirds; quetzals can be seen at higher elevations, primarily in the Barva sector. Other rare but sometimes sighted birds include eagles and umbrella birds. Mammals are difficult to spot due to the lush vegetation, though deer, monkeys and tepezcuintle (pacas, the park’s mascot) are frequently seen. Jaguars and ocelots are present but seldom seen.
Volcán BarvaHIKING
(%2266-1883; h8am-3:30pm)
Climbing Volcán Barva is a strenuous adventure along a remote but reasonably well-maintained trail. Because of its relative inaccessibility, there’s a good chance you’ll be alone. Begin at the western entrance of the park, north of Heredia. From there, a 3km signposted track climbs to the summit, where you’ll see a lake inside the crater. The trails around the volcano can be muddy, and you should be prepared for rain at any time of year.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LA DANTA SALVAJE
West of Guápiles, in a secret volcanic-mountain-range location, a 45-minute 4WD trip and a three-hour hike lead to the fabulous 410-hectare rainforest reserve La Danta Salvaje (%2750-0012, 8332-8045; www.ladantasalvaje.com; 3-night packages per person US$350) at altitude 800m, set in a Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo buffer zone. You’ll sleep in an atmospheric lodge with no electricity, and rates include transport from Guápiles, meals, jungle hiking, wildlife-spotting and splashing in nearby rivers. Reserve ahead. There’s a minimum of six people and a maximum of 12.
TTours
Rainforest AdventuresECOTOUR
(%2257-5961, in USA 1-866-759-8726; www.rainforestadventure.com; adult/student & child tram US$60/30, zipline US$50/35; h7:30am-2pm; 
c)
Rainforest Adventures and its aerial tram allow you to visit the heights of the forest canopy in a gondola. The 2.6km ride takes roughly two hours, affording unusual plant-spotting and birdwatching opportunities. The fee includes a guide, which is helpful since the density of the vegetation can make observing animals difficult. Book online or in the San José office (%2257-5961; Av 7 btwn Calles 29 & 31).
8Information
The park’s three most accessible hiking trails originate at Quebrada González ranger station (%2206-5500; park entry adult/child US$12/5; h8am-4pm) in the northeastern corner; find it on Hwy 32 (the San José–Guápiles highway), a 25-minute drive from Guápiles. It has safe parking, toilets, drinking water and a ranger-staffed info booth. For security reasons, don’t leave your car parked anywhere along the main highway.
People who want to climb Volcán Barva on a day trip or camp overnight can stop by the Barva Sector ranger station (%2266-1883; park entry adult/child US$12/5; h8am-3:30pm), in the southwest of the park, 3km north of Sacramento.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses between San José and Guápiles can drop you off at the Quebrada González ranger station, but the return trip is more challenging. While it’s possible to flag a bus down on busy Hwy 32, your luck will depend on the driver’s discretion and how full the bus is.
Drivers can reach the Barva station by following the decent paved road north from Heredia through Barva village to San José de la Montaña, Paso Llano and Sacramento. From Sacramento, a signposted, 4WD-only trail leads 3km north to the entrance. It is not advisable to drive this stretch in the rain, as the road is a mess of car-swallowing potholes. Public buses from Heredia will only get you as far as Paso Llano, 7km from the park entrance. For a day trip without your own vehicle, you’ll need to take an early bus from Heredia. Make sure you’re catching a bus that goes all the way to Paso Llano, or you’ll be left more than 15km from the park’s entrance.
VOLUNTOURISM
Near Monte de la Cruz, in the Barva sector, the Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge (%2274-1997, 8866-7380; www.cerrodantas.co.cr) is an education facility that is always seeking volunteers to help out with administrative, maintenance and research duties.
Guápiles & Around
POP 36,500
A pleasant and nontouristy (but not terribly scenic) lowland agricultural town, Guápiles lies at the base of the northern foothills of the Cordillera Central. It serves as a transportation center for the Río Frío banana-growing region and also makes a convenient base from which to explore Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo – the entrance is a 20-minute drive away – or go ziplining in Veragua Rainforest Research & Adventure Park.
4Sleeping
Hotel y Cabinas de TropicoHOTEL$
(%2710-1882; d from US$30; 
p
a
W)
This motel-style abode isn’t glamorous – it’s on a side road off Guapiles’ main highway (Rte 32) and is frequented by truckers who arrive late and leave early in the morning, but you can’t beat it on price or facilities. Clean, simple rooms all have air-con, TV and refrigerator. The front desk sells snacks and serves free coffee. It’s a 20-minute walk or five-minute drive into the center of town.
Casa Río Blanco B&BB&B$$
(%8570-8294, 2710-4124; www.casarioblanco.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$85/85/100/115; pW) 
S
One of Costa Rica’s original ecolodges, this welcoming place offers four cabins on a 2-hectare hillside above the Río Blanco. Devoid of cable TV and air-con, it’s a throwback to earlier days when ecotourism was all about unplugging. Croaking frogs and flickering lightning bugs provide late-night entertainment, while daytime diversions include visits to the nearby swimming hole and national park.
Hotel Country Club SuerreHOTEL$$$
(%2713-3000; www.suerre.com; r incl breakfast US$110, extra person US$20; p
naW
s)
On the road to Cariari, 1.5km north of the Servicentro Santa Clara, this Holiday Inn–like business resort has 98 spacious, tidy rooms and two restaurants. The meticulously maintained grounds house a casino, a large pool, a gym, shaded tennis courts and a children’s play area.
5Eating
Soda YuriferCOSTA RICAN$
(%2710-1721; casados US$4-6; h24hr; W)
It has lime-green walls and a cafeteria feel, but this clean, simple soda (lunch counter) sells good, cheap casados (with chicken, Mexican-style meat or pork, or fajita style), and fried rice with shrimp, beef or both. Top it all off with some pickled vegetables from the large chili jar on each table. Find the place south of Av Central on Calle 5. There are also burgers, hot dogs and sandwiches on the menu.
Restaurante El Yugo de Mi TataCOSTA RICAN$
(%2711-0090; mains US$5-10; h24hr)
It doesn’t look like much, but there’s a reason this is truck-stop heaven. Strategically placed just below Hwy 32’s tortuous climb into Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo (13km west of Guápiles), it’s the perfect stop before or after a visit to the national park. A huge and fabulous array of tasty, affordable buffet-style food is available round the clock.
8Orientation
The center of town is about 1km north of Hwy 32, reached by a pair of well-marked turnoffs on either side of Taco Bell. Guápiles’ two major streets are one way, running parallel to each other east and west. Most of the services, restaurants, shops and ATMs are on the loop that these streets make through the busy downtown.
8Getting There & Away
Guápiles’ modern bus terminal is 800m north of the main highway from the western Taco Bell turnoff.
BUSES FROM GUÁPILES
| Destination | Cost (US$) | Duration | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cariari (Coopetraca) | 1 | 45min | every 10-20min 4:40am-10pm |
| Puerto Limón via Guácimo & Siquirres (Tracasa) | 5 | 1-2hr | hourly 4:50am-7:10pm, from 5:30am Sun |
| Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (Guapileños) | 2.40 | 1hr | 5am, 8am, 9am, 10:30am, noon, 2:30pm, 4pm & 6:30pm |
| San José (Guapileños) | 2.60 | 1¼hr | every 15-30min 5am-7:30pm |
Siquirres
POP 31,600
The steamy lowland town of Siquirres has long served as an important transportation hub. It sits at the intersection of Hwy 32 (the main road that crosses the Atlantic slope to Puerto Limón) and Hwy 10, the old road that connects San José with Puerto Limón via Turrialba.
There is little reason to stop here unless you’re heading to Parismina – in which case this is a good spot to find banking, internet and telephone services. Tip: buy phonecards here; they aren’t sold in Parismina. For the purposes of orientation, Siquirres’ church – a highly recognizable round, red-domed building – is located west of the soccer field.
History
Even before the highways bisecting the town were built, Siquirres was a significant location, for it was here in the early 20th century that the lines of segregation were drawn. At the time, black people were barred from traveling west of the town without special permission. Accordingly, any train making its way from Limón to San José was required to stop here and change its crew: black people working as conductors and engineers would change places with their Spanish counterparts and the train would continue on its route to the capital. This ended in 1949, when a new constitution outlawed racial discrimination.
Today Siquirres still marks the place where Costa Rica takes a dip into the Caribbean – and not just geographically. This is where Costa Rican casados give way to West Indian rondón and where Spanish guitar is replaced with the strains of calypso.
WORTH A TRIP
CENTRO TURÍSTICO LAS TILAPIAS
Chito, the enthusiastic owner of Centro Turístico Las Tilapias (%2768-9293; 30min canal tours from US$10, cabinas d with fan/air-con US$45/50; h9am-7pm; p), is a passionate naturalist who spent 20 years building and introducing wildlife into a 5km canal system just outside Siquirres. It’s now teeming with exotic nature, from birds, turtles and sloths to monkeys, frogs and more, and Chito runs tours around his thriving canal network. There’s also a tasty restaurant-bar here and some charming rustic cabinas perched above a lagoon and the canals. Take a taxi or ask locals for careful directions, as it’s tricky to find.
4Sleeping & Eating
Pacuare LodgeLODGE$$$
(%4033-0060, in USA & Canada 1-800-963-1195; www.pacuarelodge.com; 3-day, 2-night all-inclusive packages s/d from US$1348/1866; W) S
There are two ways into this dream of an ecolodge, both equally adventurous. Most visitors arrive at its remote location on the Río Pacuare by raft, via a thrilling 45-minute guided paddle. Others take a 7km dirt path (only accessible via the hotel’s 4WD) to the river, and then climb into a rickety cable car that crosses the water to the lodge.
Outdoor enthusiasts will love the elegant private bungalows overlooking the river, with hardwood floors, solar-heated showers and thatched roofs; some bungalows have infinity pools. Most (aside from family rooms) have no electricity or walls, only screens – all the better to unplug from city life and immerse yourself in nature. Activities include guided hikes in virgin rainforest, ziplining, canyoning and meeting nearby indigenous communities. Unwind at the spa or eat dinner in the treetops on an elevated canopy terrace.
The lodge is currently participating in a panther program: 40 motion-sensor cameras are set up around the reserve to capture wild-cat activity, and there’s a learning center with video footage of recent sightings.
Package deals include transportation to and from San José, a bilingual guide, a rafting tour or ground transportation to the lodge, equipment, meals, most drinks and a hike.
If you absolutely must plug in during your stay, wi-fi and charging points are available in the common areas.
Pacuare River Bar & GrillCOSTA RICAN$
(%7016-3147; www.facebook.com/pacuareriverbar; bar food US$2-8; h11am-midnight)
Run by bilingual local Johanna and her American partner, Kirk, this Colorado-style bar and restaurant is on Hwy 10 between Turrialba and Siquirres. Enter the laid-back roadhouse through swing doors, grab a drink at the bar, decorated with a snake skin and bull horns, and tuck into tangy ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon), fresh beef fajitas or buffalo wings. It’s a good place to stop on the way to the Caribbean coast. Look for the kayaks out front.
8Getting There & Away
Siquirres has two main bus terminals. The one on the southeastern corner of the park serves Limón and San José. Buses for Turrialba leave from a separate terminal on the north side of the park.
BUSES FRON SIQUIRRES
| Destination | Bus company | Cost (US$) | Duration | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Limón | Tracasa | 2.50 | 1hr | every 20-40min 5am-8:10pm Mon-Sat, 5:30am-8.10pm Sun |
| San José | Autotransportes Caribeños | 3 | 2hr | every 30min-2½hr 2am-6:50pm |
| Turrialba | Transtusa | 2.50 | 1hr 50 min | every 1-1½hr 5:30am-7pm Mon, every 2hr 5:30am-6.30pm Tue-Thu, every 1-1½hr 5:30-7pm Fri & Sat & 6am-7pm Sun |
Puerto Limón
POP 58,500
Puerto Limón is the biggest city on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, the capital of Limón province, and a hardworking port that sits removed from the rest of the country. Cruise ships deposit dazed-looking passengers here between October and May, but around these parts, business is measured by truckloads of fruit, not busloads of tourists, so don’t expect any pampering.
A general lack of political and financial support from the federal government means Limón has not aged gracefully: it’s an unlovely grid of dilapidated buildings, overgrown parks, and sidewalks choked with street vendors. Crime is more common here than in other Caribbean towns. However, despite its shortcomings, Limón can be a good base for adventurous urban explorers.
History
Until the 1850s the most frequent visitors to Limón were pirates, who used the area’s natural deep-water bays as hideouts. At the time, the country’s main port was in Puntarenas, on the Pacific coast, but when the railroad arrived in the late 19th century, Limón blossomed into a full-blown trade hub. The city ultimately served as the key export point for the country’s newest agribusiness: bananas.
Beginning in 1913, a series of blights shut down many Caribbean fincas (farms) and a large portion of the area’s banana production moved to the southern Pacific coast. Afro-Caribbean workers, however, couldn’t follow the jobs, as they were forbidden to leave the province. Stranded in the least-developed part of Costa Rica, many turned to subsistence farming, fishing or managing small-scale cacao plantations. Others organized and staged bloody strikes against the powerful United Fruit company. Fed up with the status quo, Limón provided key support to revolutionary José Figueres during the 1948 civil war. This act was rewarded the following year when Figueres, who was then president, enacted a constitution that granted black people full citizenship and the right to work and travel freely throughout Costa Rica.
Even though segregation was officially dismantled, Limón continues to live with its legacy. The province was the last to get paved roads and the last to get electricity (areas south of the city weren’t on the grid until the late 1970s), and the region has chronically higher crime and unemployment rates than the rest of the country.
1Sights
Playa BonitaBEACH
Located 4km northwest of Limón, Playa Bonita has a pleasant sandy beach.
Parque VargasPARK
The city’s waterfront centerpiece won’t ever win best in show, but its decrepit bandstand, paths and greenery are surprisingly appealing, all shaded by palms and facing the docks. However, it’s best avoided at night.
TTours
Veragua Rainforest Research & Adventure ParkECOTOUR
(%4000-0949; www.veraguarainforest.com; adult with/without zipline tour US$99/66, child US$75/58; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr, large groups only low season; c) S
In Las Brisas de Veragua, this bells-and-whistles rainforest adventure park is nestled into the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca. The sprawling complex has guided tours of the forest along elevated walkways, along with such attractions as an aerial tram, a reptile vivarium, an insectarium, and hummingbird and butterfly gardens. At research time the park was converting to solar power. There’s also a zipline canopy tour. Installations include a cafeteria and gift shop. Many of the attractions are wheelchair accessible. To get here, take the signed turnoff south from Hwy 32 at Liverpool, 12km west of Puerto Limón.
zFestivals & Events
Día de la RazaCULTURAL
(Columbus Day; hOct 12)
When the city can afford it, Puerto Limón celebrates Día de la Raza with a boisterous week of Carnaval festivities, including live music, dancing and a big Saturday parade. During this time, book hotels in advance.
Festival Flores de la Diáspora AfricanaCULTURAL
(www.facebook.com/festivaldiasporacr; hlate Aug)
While this celebration of Afro-Caribbean culture centers on Puerto Limón, the festival sponsors events throughout the province and in San José.
4Sleeping
Limón offers nothing remotely upscale; it has only budget and midrange options. For something more appealing, head to nearby Playa Bonita.
Hotel MiamiHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2758-0490; hmiamilimon@yahoo.com; Av 2 btwn Calles 4 & 5; s/d US$27/37, with air-con US$40/56; pa
i)
For its location on the main drag, this clean, mint-green place feels surprisingly serene, especially in the rooms out back. All 34 tidy rooms are equipped with cable TV and fan. Rooms with air-conditioning have hot water. Welcoming staff, common balconies overlooking the street and a secure setup mean it’s the best value in town.
Hotel Playa BonitaHOTEL$$
(%2795-1010; www.hotelplayabonita.com; s/d incl breakfast from US$51/76; paWs)
This seaside hotel has simple whitewashed rooms and a breezy, ocean-view restaurant that serves everything from burgers to jumbo shrimp. It’s about 5km from downtown Puerto Limón and 2.5km from the entrance to the docks at Moín.
Park HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-0555; www.parkhotellimon.com; Av 3 btwn Calles 1 & 2; d incl breakfast US$83; paiW)
Downtown Limón’s most attractive hotel has 32 rooms in a faded yellow building that faces the ocean. Tiled rooms are tidy and sport clean bathrooms with hot water; superior and deluxe units come with ocean views and balconies. The hotel also houses the swankiest restaurant in the town center.
TURTLE BEACH TRAGEDY
The Caribbean’s turtle-conservation community suffered a devastating blow on the night of May 30, 2013, when 26-year-old Costa Rican environmentalist Jairo Mora Sandoval was murdered while patrolling a stretch of Moín beach near Puerto Limón. The tragedy shone a light on the challenges facing turtle conservationists. While many communities along the coast have successfully engaged former poachers in guiding and conservation work, turtle eggs continue to be prized on the black market for their supposed aphrodisiac qualities. The remote section of beach where Sandoval was working, near Costa Rica’s biggest Caribbean port, is insalubrious, with a history of drug running.
Mora’s death sparked strong international and domestic protest, with calls for a beefed-up police presence and stronger conservation measures. In 2016, maximum sentences were given to four poachers found guilty of the murder. The saga has been devastating to Costa Rica’s sea-turtle conservation movement, but some bold activists still patrol the beaches on the Caribbean coast.
5Eating
Find cheap eats at the sodas in the central market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 4; h6am-8pm Mon-Fri) and smoothies at Fruit and Veggies Land (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4702-8653; Calle 7 btwn Avs 2 & 3; smoothies from US$2, meals US$2-5; h11am-8pm). You can get groceries at the large Más X Menos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Av 3 & Calle 3; h7am-9pm, to 8pm Sun), or at the Palí (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Calle 7 & Av 1; h8am-9pm Fri-Mon, to 8:30pm Tue-Thu) next to the Terminal Caribeño.
oSoda El PattyCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-3407; cnr Av 5 & Calle 7; patí US$1.50, mains US$2-5; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat)
This beloved nine-table Caribbean eatery, with football memorabilia on the walls, serves up delicious patí (flaky beef turnovers stuffed with onion, spices and Panamanian peppers), along with sweet plantain tarts and heaping plates of rice-and-beans (the spicier, more flavorful version of the country’s traditional casado).
Macrobiótica BionaturaVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2798-2020; Calle 6 btwn Avs 3 & 4; h8am-6:15pm Mon-Fri, to 5:15pm Sat; 
v)
This macrobiotic grocery store sells healthy vegetarian foods, vitamins and some things made of soy.
Mirador Da Domenico Red SnapperCARIBBEAN$$
(%2758-7613; near Calle Los Miranda; mains US$10-36; h11:30am-midnight; c)
Head honchos for Limón’s new port project often lunch at this scenic half-Italian, half-Caribbean restaurant perched on a mountainside overlooking the city and coastline. The open-air dining room has a bunch of TVs and a convivial vibe, making it an ideal spot to catch a soccer game and devour a whole fried fish. It’s on a lane near Calle Los Miranda. Call ahead or ask a local for directions, as it can be tricky to find.
Caribbean Kalisi Coffee ShopCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2758-3249; Calle 6 btwn Avs 3 & 4; mains from US$10; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-5pm Sun)
Belly up to the cafeteria-style counter at this friendly family spot and cobble together a plate of coconut rice, red beans and whatever Caribbean meat and veggie dishes are cooking today. Also recommended in the mornings for its affordable à la carte breakfasts and good café con leche (coffee with milk).
Reina’sSEAFOOD$$
(%2795-0879; mains US$9-15; h9am-10pm)
On the beach at Playa Bonita, Reina’s has loud music, good vibes and plenty of mariscos (seafood) and cerveza (beer) on the menu.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Rough bars (hangouts for coastal characters: banana workers, sailors and ladies of the night) are dotted around Parque Vargas and a few blocks west. The more appealing Tsunami Sushi (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2758-8628; Av 3 btwn Calles 1 & 2; cocktails from US$4, sushi rolls US$2-13; h11am-2am Fri & Sat, 11:30am-11:45pm Tue-Thu) has a good cocktail list and live music. Solo women: don’t walk around at night and keep your wits about you in bars. There are better Caribbean towns to go out in.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Though police presence has ramped up noticeably in recent years, pickpockets can be a problem, particularly in the market and along the sea wall. In addition, people do get mugged here, so stick to well-lit main streets at night, avoiding the sea wall and Parque Vargas. If driving, park in a guarded lot overnight and remove everything from the car.
It’s worth noting that most of the violent incidents recorded in Limón relate to organized crime and those involved in drug and human trafficking, and do not affect travelers.
INTERNET ACCESS
The internet connection is reasonably good in Limón. Most guesthouses have wi-fi.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Tony Facio (%2758-2222) Serves the entire province. It’s northeast of the center.
MONEY
If you’re traveling onward to Parismina or Tortuguero, Limón is a good opportunity to get cash and phonecards (Parismina has no ATMs, and Tortuguero’s one ATM may run out of cash in high season).
Banco de Costa Rica (cnr Av 2 & Calle 1) Exchanges US dollars and has an ATM.
Scotiabank (cnr Av 3 & Calle 2; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Exchanges cash and has a 24-hour ATM that dispenses US dollars.
8Getting There & Away
Puerto Limón is the transportation hub of the Caribbean coast.
Cruise ships dock in Limón, but smaller passenger boats bound for Parismina and Tortuguero use the port at Moín, about 7km west of town.
If driving, park your car in a guarded lot at night and don’t leave anything on display.
Buses from all points west arrive at Terminal Caribeño (Av 2 btwn Calles 7 & 8), just west of the baseball stadium. Buses to all points south depart from the Autotransportes Mepe Terminal (%2758-1572; Calle 6 btwn Avs 1 & 2), on the eastern side of the stadium.
BUSES FROM PUERTO LIMÓN
| Destination | Cost (US$) | Duration (hr) | Terminal | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bribrí | 5 | 2.5 | Autotransportes Mepe | hourly 5am-7pm |
| Cahuita | 3 | 1-1½ | Autotransportes Mepe | hourly 5am-7pm |
| Guápiles (Tracasa) | 4.50 | 1½ | Caribeño | frequent 5am-6:20pm |
| Manzanillo | 5 | 2 | Autotransportes Mepe | every 1-2hr 5am-5:15pm |
| Puerto Viejo de Talamanca | 4 | 1½-2 | Autotransportes Mepe | every 1-2hr 5am-7pm |
| San José (Autotransportes Caribeños) | 7 | 3 | Caribeño | every 30min-1hr 4:30am-7pm |
| Siquirres (Tracasa) | 2.50 | 1 | Caribeño | hourly 5am-7pm |
| Sixaola | 5.50 | 3 | Autotransportes Mepe | hourly 5am-7pm |
Moín
Most visitors come to Moín for connections to Parismina or Tortuguero. Located 8km northwest of Puerto Limón, the town is a dusty transportation dock for trucks and boat transfers along the connecting canals and rivers.
TTours
Tortuguero Wildlife Tour & TransportationBOATING
(William Guerrero, TUCA; %2798-7027, 8371-2323; www.tortuguero-wildlife.com; 1 way tours to Tortuguero from US$35)
A small, well-regarded company run by master sloth-spotter William Guerrero and his wife. It’s ideal if you want to book a leisurely ride to Tortuguero with plenty of pit stops to see wildlife and have lunch (an optional extra).
All Rankin’s ToursBOATING
(%2709-8101, 2758-4160; www.greencoast.com/allrankin; return trips to Tortuguero from US$70)
For leisurely boat rides to Tortuguero, choose these tours run by longtime resident Willis Rankin (who also offers deals for his rustic lodge near Tortuguero’s airstrip). On our research trip, the knowledgeable guide spotted sloths, alligators, turtles, toucans, iguanas, monkeys and even a dolphin on the canal; the pretty journey alone is worth the trip.
8Getting There & Away
BOAT
The journey by boat from Moín to Tortuguero can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on how often the boat stops to observe wildlife (many tours also stop for lunch). It’s worth taking your time. As you wind through these jungle canals on an Indiana Jones–style adventure, you’re likely to spot howler monkeys, crocodiles, two- or three-toed sloths and an amazing array of wading birds, including roseate spoonbills.
Tourist-boat schedules exist in theory only and change frequently depending on demand. If you’re feeling lucky, you can just show up in Moín in the morning and pay a premium to get on one of the outgoing tour boats (there’s often at least one departure at 10am). You’re better off reserving, though, particularly during slower seasons when boats don’t travel the route on a daily basis. If the canal becomes blocked by water hyacinths or logjams, the route might be closed altogether. Call ahead for departure times and reservations.
One-way fares generally run between US$35 and US$45 to Tortuguero, US$70 to US$80 return, and between US$25 and US$35 one way to Parismina. ABACAT (Asociación de Boteros de los Canales de Tortuguero; %8360-7325; boat trips 1 way/return US$35/70) arranges transport on various boats. Try in Tortuguero for additional operators. There are basic toilet facilities at Moín’s dock.
BUS
Tracasa buses to Moín from Puerto Limón (roughly US$1, 20 minutes) depart from Terminal Caribeño hourly from 5:30am to 6:30pm (less frequently on Saturday and Sunday). Get off the bus before it goes over the bridge.
Caribe Shuttle and Tropical Wind (%8327-0317, 8313-7164; 1 way/return US$35/70) operate almost-daily shuttles between Tortuguero and Moin in high season.
NEW INFRASTRUCTURE FOR CARIBBEAN PORTS
Two major new infrastructure developments are under way in the region around Limón: the construction of a US$1-billion container port in Moín (scheduled for completion in 2018) by the multinational corporation APM, and a Chinese- and Costa Rican–financed US$495-million initiative to widen a 107km section of Hwy 32 between Río Frío and downtown Limón to four lanes, including 26km of bike paths.
While it’s estimated that 80% of the country’s exports make their way through the Caribbean ports, it is unclear whether the economic benefits of these projects will be shared by the local population. Indeed, plans for the container port sparked massive protests in Limón and Moín by dockworkers-union members, who fear that privatization of the port will undermine rather than improve their standard of living. Others believe that it will bring jobs and infrastructure to the area – only time will tell.
Northern Caribbean
This is the wettest region in Costa Rica, a network of rivers and canals that is home to diminutive fishing villages and slick sportfishing camps, raw rainforest and all-inclusive resorts – not to mention plenty of wading birds and sleepy sloths.
Most significantly, the area’s long, wild beaches serve as the protected nesting grounds for three kinds of sea turtle. In fact, more green turtles are born here than anywhere else in the world.
Parismina
POP 400
For a sense of what Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast was like prior to the arrival of mass tourism, jump ship in this sleepy coastal fishing village, wedged between the Canales de Tortuguero and the Caribbean Sea. Bereft of ziplines, it’s the sort of spot where elderly men play dominoes on porches and kids splash around in mud puddles.
For those intrepid enough to make the journey, Parismina is also a great place to view turtles and aid in their conservation while avoiding the crowds of Tortuguero. Though fewer turtle species and numbers nest here, it’s possible to spot leatherbacks between late February and early October, and green turtles between June and September. Hawksbills have been seen between February and September. There’s also a turtle hatchery, at which volunteers can help guard the eggs. Sportfishing is the other traditional tourist draw in this area.
2Activities
Aside from turtle spotting, you can hike, horse ride and learn about coconuts here at Green Gold Ecolodge. Río Parismina Lodge organizes package sportfishing expeditions from the USA.
Asociación Salvemos Las Tortugas de ParisminaVOLUNTEERING
(ASTOP, Save the Turtles of Parismina; %2798-2220; homestays per night incl 3 meals & patrols US$28, registration fee US$35; hby arrangement Mar-Sep) S
This grassroots turtle-protection organization has strong community support and employs former poachers as ‘turtle guides.’ It maintains a guarded turtle hatchery on a section of 6km beach. Travelers can volunteer as guards to patrol the beaches alongside local turtle guides. Day volunteers pay a one-time US$35 registration fee, then $10 per patrol (five-patrol minimum).
ASTOP also organizes homestays, offers free internet access and a hangout space for volunteers, and arranges horseback-riding trips, bike rentals, turtle-watching tours and wildlife-viewing excursions by boat.
4Sleeping & Eating
Green Gold EcolodgeLODGE$
(%8647-0691, 8697-2322; dm adult/child US$20/10, incl 3 meals US$50/30) S
About 3km south of the dock, this simple solar- and generator-powered retreat, steps from the beach and surrounded by 36 hectares of jungle, is an authentic rainforest hideaway. Run by the charming (and bilingual) Jason and Juliana, it has rustic but comfortable facilities including eight screened-in upstairs rooms (some with dorm beds), a shared open-air kitchen and shared bathrooms.
Guests can lounge in hammocks on the large porch and gaze at the fruit plants or spot sloths and monkeys in the trees. Jason can arrange activities from hiking, horseback riding and fishing to coconut tours (in which you’ll learn about growing, collecting methods and uses). To get there, walk around 40 minutes from the village, arrange for a truck ride from town (around US$10 one way) or arrive by private boat (US$20 from Caño Blanco); reservations recommended. Barbecue meals that include traditional Caribbean fare can be arranged.
Carefree RanchCABINA$
(%8744-6403; r per person US$12)
Opposite the Catholic church at the southern end of town, friendly local Anna runs this clapboard house – bright yellow with green trim – with eight tidy rooms and an inviting, broad front porch. It’s about as quaint as things get in Parismina. Tasty home-cooked casados (US$7) can be prebooked.
Río Parismina LodgeLODGE$$$
(%210-824-4442, in USA 800-338-5688; www.riop.com; 3-day fishing tours from US$2600; ns)
Top-of-the-line spot on 20 hectares of jungle, with swimming pool, Jacuzzi, English-speaking guides, and both river and ocean boats. Meals, beverages, internal charter flights, boat, guide, equipment, lures and daily laundry service included in rates.
Soda Rancho La PalmaSODA$
(%8550-7243; casados US$7; h5am-9pm Mon-Sat)
Right next to the dock, no-nonsense Doña Amelia serves up fresh and tasty fish and meat casados, plus rice and beans cooked in a coconut Creole-style sauce. She also keeps the small plaster statue of the Virgin that is paraded during a boat procession in July.
8Information
There are no banks or post offices in Parismina. Credit cards are not accepted, so make sure you bring enough cash.
There’s not much in the way of public internet access in Parismina, but the ASTOP hang-out base is well connected and will let visitors use the wi-fi for a couple of dollars.
While the village has a pay phone, no one in town sells phonecards – bring your own.
8Getting There & Away
Parismina is only accessible by boat or charter flight. The only scheduled boat service is to Caño Blanco (for transfer to Siquirres). Water taxis (US$2, 10 minutes) leave from the Parismina dock at 5:30am, 1:30pm and 5:30pm on weekdays, and at 5:30am, 9am, 1:30pm and 5:30pm on weekends. A bus will be waiting at Caño Blanco’s dock to continue the journey to Siquirres (US$2.20, two hours); you’ll wait roughly 10 minutes for it to leave. There are toilet facilities and a snack shop at Caño Blanco. The boat and bus drivers only accept the local currency: colones.
For journeys from Siquirres to Parismina, take the bus from Siquirres to Caño Blanco (US$2.20, two hours) leaving at 6am, 9:30am and 2pm. On arrival at Caño Blanco a boat should be waiting at the dock and will take you to Parismina (US$2, 10 minutes).
If you are in, or going to, Tortuguero (via Moín), it’s possible to reserve a seat on one of the tourist boats that travel between the two destinations, but planning is essential. Note that it may take 24 to 48 hours to secure transportation (around US$25 to US$35), as Parismina is not a regular stop. Call one of the boat companies in Moín or Tortuguero directly, or ask the friendly folk at Soda Rancho La Palma to help you book.
Parque Nacional Tortuguero
Humid Tortuguero (%2709-8086; www.acto.go.cr; US$15; h6am-6pm, last entry 4pm) is a 311-sq-km coastal park that serves as the most important breeding ground of the green sea turtle. With annual rainfall of up to 6000mm in the northern part of the park, it is one of the wettest areas in the country. In addition, the protected area extends into the Caribbean Sea, covering about 5200 hectares of marine habitat. In other words, plan on spending quality time in a boat.
The famed Canales de Tortuguero are the introduction to this park. Created to connect a series of lagoons and meandering rivers in 1974, this engineering marvel allowed inland navigation between Limón and coastal villages in something sturdier than a dugout canoe. Regular flights service the village of Tortuguero – but if you fly in, you’ll be missing half the fun. The leisurely taxi-boat ride, through banana plantations and wild jungle, is equal parts recreation and transportation.
2Activities
Most visitors come to watch sea turtles lay eggs on the wild beaches. The area is more than just turtles, though: Tortuguero teems with wildlife. You’ll find sloths and howler monkeys in the treetops, tiny frogs and green iguanas scurrying among buttress roots, plus mighty tarpons, alligators and endangered manatees swimming in the waters.
Turtle-Watching
The area attracts four of the world’s eight species of sea turtle, making it a crucial habitat for these massive reptiles. It will come as little surprise, then, that these hatching grounds gave birth to the sea-turtle conservation movement. The Caribbean Conservation Corporation, the first program of its kind in the world, has continuously monitored turtle populations here since 1955. Today green sea turtles are increasing in numbers along this coast, but the leatherback, hawksbill and loggerhead are in decline.
Most female turtles share a nesting instinct that drives them to return to the beach of their birth (their natal beach) in order to lay their eggs. (Only the leatherback returns to a more general region instead of a specific beach.) During their lifetimes, they will usually nest every two to three years and, depending on the species, may come ashore to lay eggs 10 times in one season. Often, a turtle’s ability to reproduce depends on the ecological health of this original habitat.
The female turtle digs a perfect cylindrical cavity in the sand using her flippers, and then lays 80 to 120 eggs. She diligently covers the nest with sand to protect the eggs, and she may even create a false nest in another location in an attempt to confuse predators. She then makes her way back to sea – after which the eggs are on their own. Incubation ranges from 45 to 70 days, after which hatchlings – no bigger than the size of your palm – break out of their shells using a caruncle, a temporary tooth. They crawl to the ocean in small groups, moving as quickly as possible to avoid dehydration and predators. Once they reach the surf, they must swim for at least 24 hours to get to deeper water, away from land-based predators.
Because of the sensitive nature of the habitat and the critically endangered status of some species, tours to see this activity are highly regulated. It is important not to alarm turtles as they come to shore (a frightened turtle will return to the ocean and dump her eggs). In high season, tour groups gather in shelter sites close to the beach and a spotter relays a turtle’s location via radio once she has safely crossed the high-tide mark and built her nest. At this time, visitors can then go to the beach and watch the turtle lay her eggs, cover her nest and return to the ocean. Seeing a turtle is not guaranteed, but licensed guides will still make your tour worthwhile with the wealth of turtle information they’ll share. By law, tours can only take place between 8am and midnight. Some guides will offer tours after midnight; these are illegal.
Visitors should wear closed-toe shoes and rain gear. Tours cost US$25. Nesting season runs from March to October, with July and August being prime time. The next best time is April, when leatherback turtles nest in small numbers. Flashlights and cameras are not allowed on the beach. Wear nonreflective, dark clothing.
Other Wildlife-Watching
More than 400 bird species, both resident and migratory, have been recorded in Tortuguero – it’s a birdwatchers’ paradise. Due to the wet habitat, the park is especially rich in waders, including egrets, jacanas and 14 types of heron, as well as species such as kingfishers, toucans and the great curassow (a type of jungle peacock known locally as the pavón). The great green macaw is a highlight, most common from December to April, when the almond trees are fruiting. In September and October, look for flocks of migratory species such as eastern kingbirds, barn swallows and purple martins. The Sea Turtle Conservancy conducts a biannual monitoring program in which volunteers can help scientists take inventory of local and migratory species.
Certain species of mammal are particularly evident in Tortuguero, especially mantled howler monkeys, the Central American spider monkey and the white-faced capuchin. If you’ve got a reliable pair of binoculars and a good guide, you can usually see both two- and three-toed sloths. In addition, normally shy neotropical river otters are reasonably habituated to boats. Harder to spot are timid West Indian manatees and dolphins, which swim into the brackish canals looking for food. The park is also home to big cats such as jaguars and ocelots, but these are savvy, nocturnal animals – sightings are very rare.
Most wildlife-watching tours are done by boat. To get the best from Tortuguero, be on the water early or go out following a heavy rain, when all the wildlife comes out to sunbathe. It is also highly recommended to take tours by canoe or kayak – these smaller, silent craft will allow you to get into the park’s less trafficked nooks and crannies.
Boating
Four aquatic trails wind their way through Parque Nacional Tortuguero, inviting water-borne exploration. Río Tortuguero acts as the entranceway to the network of trails. This wide, beautiful river is often covered with water lilies and is frequented by aquatic birds such as herons, kingfishers and anhingas – the latter of which is known as the snakebird for the way its slim, winding neck pokes out of the water when it swims.
Caño Chiquero and Canõ Mora are two narrower waterways with good wildlife-spotting opportunities. According to park regulations, only kayaks, canoes and silent electric boats are allowed in these areas. Caño Chiquero is thick with vegetation, especially red guácimo trees and epiphytes. Black turtles and green iguanas like to hang out here. Caño Mora is about 3km long but only 10m wide, so it feels as if it’s straight out of The Jungle Book. Caño Haroldas is actually an artificially constructed canal, but that doesn’t stop the creatures – such as Jesus Christ lizards and caimans – from inhabiting its tranquil waters. Canoe rental and boat tours are available in Tortuguero village.
Hiking
Behind Cuatro Esquinas ranger station, the main well-trodden trail is a muddy, 2km out-and-back hike that traverses the tropical humid forest and parallels a stretch of beach. Green parrots and several species of monkey are commonly sighted here. The short trail is well marked. Rubber boots are required and can be rented at hotels and near the park entrance.
A second hiking option, Cerro Tortuguero Trail, is also available. To reach the trailhead, guests have to take a boat to the town of San Francisco, north of Tortuguero village, where they will disembark at another ranger station and buy a ticket (US$7, plus US$4 for the 15- to 20-minute round-trip boat ride). The trail then takes visitors 1.8km up a hill for a view of the surrounding lagoon, forest and ocean. Casa Marbella in Tortuguero village can help guests organize the details and even arrange a local guide (from US$35) to take you on the trip.
8Information
Park headquarters is at Cuatro Esquinas (%2709-8086; www.acto.go.cr; h6am-4pm), just south of Tortuguero village. This is a helpful ranger station with maps and info. For canoe tours from this station, new rules limit the number of boats and the amount of time they spend on the canals. Boats are permitted in the park between 6am and 3pm. The early-morning and afternoon tours are best for encountering wildlife and beating the heat. Reserve early for the canal tour, especially in high season.
Jalova Station (h6am-4pm) is on the canal at the southern entrance to the national park; it’s accessible from Parismina by boat. Although fewer tourists stop here, there’s a small visitor center, a short nature trail and a bathroom.
8Getting There & Away
The park entrance is a short walk south of the Tortuguero village (the most common entry point) and is also accessible by boat from Parismina.
PARK ADMISSION FEE
An admission fee (US$15) is charged for each day you visit the main Tortuguero National Park. If you’re planning multiple activities within the park, you can save a few colones by concentrating them in a single day; for example, if you go out on a boat tour in the early morning, then hike the walking trail that same afternoon, you’ll only pay the admission fee once.
Tortuguero Village
POP 1500
Located within the confines of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, accessible only by air or water, this bustling little village with strong Afro-Caribbean roots is best known for attracting hordes of sea turtles (the name Tortuguero means ‘turtle catcher’) – and the hordes of tourists who want to see them. While peak turtle season is in July and August, the park and village have begun to attract travelers year-round. Even in October, when the turtles have pretty much returned to the sea, families and adventure travelers arrive to go on jungle hikes, take in the wild national park, and canoe the area’s lush canals.
Tortuguero Village
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
2Activities
Nonmotorized boat transport offers the best chance of spotting wildlife while exploring the waterways. Numerous businesses rent kayaks and canoes and offer boat tours.
Hikers can follow a self-guided trail, adjacent to Cuatro Esquinas ranger station, that runs parallel to the beach via a well-worn coastal path north from the village to the airport, or walk the beach during daylight hours. Other hiking opportunities exist in and around the park but require the services of a guide.
VOLUNTEERING FOR TURTLES
Canadian Organization for Tropical Education & Rainforest Conservation (COTERC; %2709-8052; www.coterc.org; dm per week incl 3 meals per day US$275) This not-for-profit organization operates the Estación Biológica Caño Palma, 8km north of Tortuguero village. This small biological research station runs a volunteer program in which visitors can assist with upkeep of the station and research projects, including sea-turtle and bird monitoring, mammal, caiman and snake monitoring, and also a community program.
Sea Turtle Conservancy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; STC, formerly Caribbean Conservation Corporation; %2297-5510, in USA 352-373-6441; www.conserveturtles.org; museum US$2; h10am-noon & 2-5pm) About 200m north of the village, Tortuguero’s original turtle-conservation organization (founded in 1959) operates a research station, visitor center and museum. Exhibits focus on all things turtle related, including a video about the local history of turtle conservation. STC also runs a highly reputable volunteer program.
TTours
Guides post signs all over town advertising their services for canal tours and turtle walks. The most convenient places to arrange tours are at local hotels and at the official Asociación de Guías de Tortuguero kiosk.
Leonardo ToursOUTDOORS
(%8577-1685; www.leonardotours.wordpress.com; nature walks from US$20; h9am-7pm)
With nine years of experience guiding tours in the area, Leonardo Estrada brings extensive knowledge and infectious enthusiasm to his turtle, canoeing, kayaking and hiking tours.
Tinamon ToursTOURS
(%8842-6561; www.tinamontours.de; 2½hr hikes from US$25, 2-night tour packages per person from US$100)
Zoologist and 20-plus-year Tortuguero resident Barbara Hartung offers hiking, canoeing, cultural and turtle tours in German, English, French or Spanish. Packages, including two nights’ accommodation, breakfast, a canoe tour and a hike, start at US$100 per person. Note that you’ll need to pay the US$15 entrance fee for park hikes.
Riverboat Francesca Nature ToursFISHING
(%2226-0986; www.tortuguerocanals.com; 2-day sportfishing packages from US$200)
A highly recommended company run by Modesto and Fran Watson, Riverboat Francesca offers sportfishing.
Castor Hunter ThomasTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8870-8634; www.castorhunter.blogspot.com; nature tours per person from US$35)
Excellent local guide and 44-year Tortuguero resident Castor has led hikes, turtle tours and canoe tours for more than 20 years.
Casa CecropiaFOOD
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8196, 8829-8523; 1½hr tour US$20; htours 10:30am & 4pm)
At the entrance to Tortuguero National Park a little hut offers the perfect indoor activity if it’s raining. Biologist Rafael teaches the history of chocolate, including how it’s produced, and even lets you have a go at peeling and grinding cacao beans. Then you get to gobble some chocolate and try a delicious chocolatey drink.
Asociación de Guías de TortugueroTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2767-0836; www.asoprotur.com; h6am-7pm)
The most convenient place to arrange tours is at the official Asociación de Guías de Tortuguero kiosk by the boat landing. Made up of scores of local guides, the association offers tours in English, French, German and other languages. Although guides are all certified to lead tours in the park, the quality of the tours can vary. Rates at the time of research were US$25 per person for a two-hour turtle tour and US$20 for a canoe tour. Other options include two-hour walking (US$20), birdwatching (US$35) and fishing (US$80, minimum two people) tours. Tours also involve an extra US$15 admission fee to the park (not required for the fishing tour).
4Sleeping
Tortuguero has accommodation options in different places around its waterways; be aware that at the more secluded hotels you may need a boat to get into the main village.
4In Tortuguero Village
In the village you’ll find simpler cabinas charging US$20 and up for a private room.
Aracari Garden HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2767-2246; www.aracarigarden.com; dm US$12, r US$22-35; W)
This tangerine-colored, newly renovated hostel on the south side of the soccer field has eight sparkling rooms and relaxing shared spaces surrounded by fruit trees. A stay comes with free coffee, a shared open-air kitchen, book exchange and hammocks. The ocean is 50m away and toucans can sometimes be spotted in the trees above.
La CasonaCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8092; www.lacasonatortuguero.com; incl breakfast s/d/tr US$20/35/40; W
#)
Cute rooms with rustic touches, fans and hot showers surround a lovely garden at this family-run spot. Sit back and relax in one of the hammocks and watch hummingbirds, butterflies, iguanas and frogs visit the garden. It’s on the north side of the soccer field.
El IcacoHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8044; www.hotelelicaco.com; s/d/tr/q US$20/35/45/55; Ws)
This simple lodging offers clean, brightly painted rooms and friendly service. The beachfront location is ideal, and there are plenty of hammocks from which to enjoy it. The hotel also offers access to an off-site swimming pool, along with rental housing for groups and families. Cash only. Breakfast (US$7) is available by prior arrangement.
Cabinas TortugueroCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8839-1200, 2709-8114; www.cabinas-tortuguero.com; r US$25-35; W)
Down a side street between the boat landing and the park entrance you’ll find eight quaint bungalows surrounding a tidy garden at this popular budget spot. Rooms have hardwood floors and fans, and the property features hammocks for lounging, a shared kitchen and laundry service. Inquire about reduced rates in low season.
oHotel Miss JunieCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8029; www.iguanaverdetours.com; incl breakfast s/d standard US$50/55, superior US$65/75; W)
Tortuguero’s longest-established lodging, Miss Junie’s is set on spacious, palm-shaded grounds strewn with hammocks and wooden armchairs. Wood-paneled rooms in a tropical plantation–style building are tastefully decorated with wood accents and bright bedspreads. Upstairs rooms share a breezy balcony overlooking the canal; the restaurant downstairs serves delicious food. It’s at the northern end of the town’s main street.
oCasa MarbellaB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8833-0827, 2709-8011; http://casamarbella.tripod.com; r incl breakfast US$35-65, extra person US$10; iW)
In the heart of the village, with a spacious and delightful canal-side deck, this B&B owned by naturalist Daryl Loth is one of Tortuguero’s most appealing in-town options. Ten simple, well-lit rooms come with ceiling fans, super-clean bathrooms and hearty breakfasts served overlooking the water. It’s a two-minute walk north (left) from the village boat landing, but most boats will drop you right at the B&B from the canal. Local tours can be booked by the friendly bilingual check-in staff.
Hotel River ViewHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8579-9414; 1/2/3/4 people US$25/50/75/100; aW)
In a prime location on the main street, eight simple, immaculate new rooms with TVs and air-con sit perched above the river. A communal balcony overlooks the water’s edge. Breakfast can be arranged in the restaurant downstairs, or there’s a bakery right next door.
4Outside the Village
The most upscale lodges and cabinas are outside the main village. Those north and west of the village cater to high-end travelers on package deals, although most will accept walk-ins (er, boat-ins) if they aren’t full.
oRana RojaLODGE$$
(%2709-8260, 8730-2280; www.ranarojalodge.com; r/cabins per person incl breakfast US$55/75, r per person incl 3 meals US$75; iWs) S
On the opposite site of the canal from Tortuguero village, this jungle hideaway is good value. The immaculate rooms are connected by elevated walkways; some rooms have private terraces and rockers, and all have tiled floors, hot showers and awesome nature views – iguanas, deer and herons are frequently spotted. Free kayaks are available, and the new saltwater pool has a slide. The restaurant serves a nightly buffet. Book a Caribbean dance class at the hotel for US$30.
Toucan & Tarpon LodgeCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8408-4239; www.toucanandtarpon.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$50/60/65/70)
Just across the river from Tortuguero village, this place has three simple cabinas with solar electricity and Guatemalan textiles. Each room sleeps between two and five people; there are no fans, but the big windows are well ventilated with screens. Other amenities include delicious homemade breakfasts, a communal kitchen with well-stocked spice cabinet, a ping-pong table and free canoe use. There’s excellent wildlife-spotting (monkeys, sloths, toucans, armadillos, porcupines, toucans and more) in the surrounding trees. Half-day fishing trips can be arranged for US$350, including refreshments.
La Baula LodgeLODGE$$
(%2711-3030, 2767-0101; www.labaulalodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$89/99/109; iWs)
North of town and across the river, this laid-back, long-running lodge has an unpretentious atmosphere. Rooms have hardwood floors, ceiling fans and hot-water showers. In high season the outdoor dining area features live marimba and Caribbean guitar music. A 300m trail in the grounds offers the chance to spot exotic birds, spider monkeys, iguanas and snakes.
Turtle Beach LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2241-1419, after hours 8837-6969; www.turtlebeachlodge.com; 1-night, 2-day all-inclusive packages per person s/d/tr/q/child US$284/245/226/210/91; s) S
Reached by an Indiana Jones–style boating adventure, this isolated lodge is surrounded by 70 hectares of tropical gardens and rainforest and flanked by beach and river. Spacious wood cabins have tile floors, hardwood furniture and huge screened windows. Guests can explore the network of jungle trails, kayak the adjacent canal, or lounge around the turtle-shaped pool or thatch-roofed hammock hut. Rates include transport, breakfast, buffet lunch and a candlelit dinner in the Turtle Tavern and Restaurant. The lodge is 8km outside Tortuguero village.
Tortuga Lodge & GardensLODGE$$$
(%2709-8136, 2257-0766; www.tortugalodge.com; r US$188-296; Ws)
This elegant lodge is set amid 20 serene hectares of private gardens, directly across the canal from Tortuguero’s airstrip. The 27 demure rooms channel a 19th-century safari vibe, with creamy linens, handmade textiles, vintage photos and broad terraces that invite lounging. The grounds come equipped with private trails and a riverside pool, bar and restaurant.
Hotel Aninga & SpaLODGE$$$
(%2222-6841, 2222-6840; www.aningalodgetortuguero.com; 2-night packages per person s/d US$249/209; Ws) S
Sitting 1km north of the village on the opposite side of the canal, Hotel Aninga has a cluster of stilted bungalows connected by a series of boardwalks, along with a bar and a restaurant serving buffet food including Caribbean chicken, beef and pork, veggies and salad, plus pasta.
Nonguests can make appointments at the spa for massages (US$65 to US$120) and other treatments.
Evergreen LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2222-6841; www.evergreentortuguero.com; 2-night packages per person s/d/tr US$296/243/232; Ws)
This pleasant place has a rustic feel, with 66 rooms and private bungalows with fans and hot water surrounded by jungle greenery. Guests have access to a pool area, Tortuguero’s only canopy tour (US$35), kayaks and an upstairs bar overlooking the river. At the time of research the hotel was renovating a private 1km nature-spotting trail into the park.
Laguna LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2253-1100, 2709-8082; www.lagunatortuguero.com; s/d/tr incl meals, transfers, tours & activities US$253/223/201; Ws)
This expansive lodge, liberally decorated with gorgeous mosaic art and trim, has 106 graceful rooms with high ceilings and wide decks lined with Sarchí-made leather rocking chairs. It also has a buffet restaurant, three bars (canal-side, in the rainforest, and poolside), a massage room, a soccer pitch and a Gaudí-esque reception with a giant conch shell on the roof.
Mawamba LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2709-8181, 2293-8181; www.mawamba.com; 2 nights incl meals, transfers & standard tours s/d/tr US$345/642/792; Ws)
With pool tables, foosball, a mosaic swimming pool, and butterfly and frog gardens, this lodge sits between the canal and Tortuguero’s main turtle-nesting beach, within walking distance of town. Simple wood-paneled rooms have firm beds, good fans and spacious bathrooms with hot water. All are fronted by wide verandas with hammocks and rocking chairs.
Pachira LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2257-2242, 2256-7078; www.pachiralodge.com; 2-night packages adult/child US$339/170; Ws)
A sprawling compound set on 14 hectares of land, this 88-room hotel with turtle-shaped pool is a popular family spot. Pristine, brightly painted clapboard bungalows with shared terraces house blocks of rooms that sleep up to four. Cribs and children’s beds are available. Rates include transfers, a welcome cocktail and three local tours.
5Eating
One of Tortuguero’s unsung pleasures is its cuisine: the homey restaurants lure you in with steaming platters of Caribbean-style food, plus international options like pizza and pasta. Most use local produce.
oTaylor’s PlaceCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8319-5627; mains US$7-14; h6-9pm)
Low-key atmosphere and high-quality cooking come together beautifully at this backstreet eatery southwest of the soccer field. The inviting garden setting, with chirping insects and picnic benches spread under colorful paper lanterns, is rivaled only by friendly chef Ray Taylor’s culinary artistry. House specialties include beef in tamarind sauce, grilled fish in garlic sauce, and avocado and chicken salad.
Fresh FoodsCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2767-1063; mains US$3.50-9, smoothies US$3-4; h7:30am-9:30pm)
In the commercial center of the village, this family-owned restaurant offers breakfasts (omelets, juice, fruit, toast), solid Caribbean meals (chicken and rice) and giant, delicious smoothies in fishbowl glasses. After a long day on the canals, a tasty Caribbean-style filet and a passion-fruit drink really nails it.
Dorling BakeryBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2767-0444; pastries US$2, breakfast US$4-5; h5am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun)
Thanks to its predawn opening time, this is a good spot to pick up homemade banana bread, lemon and orange cake or cinnamon rolls before an early-morning flight or canal tour.
Sunrise RestaurantCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; mains US$6.50-8; h9:30am-9pm Wed-Mon, from 11am low season)
Between the dock and the national park, this cozy log cabin–like place will lure you in with the delicious smoky aroma of its grilled chicken and pork ribs. It also serves seafood pasta, fajitas, salad, breakfast and a full Caribbean menu at lunch and dinnertime, with some of the best prices in town.
Soda Doña MaríaSODA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8928-8424; dishes US$5-8; h11am-8:30pm)
Recover from a hike in the park at this riverside soda, serving jugos (juices), burgers and casados. It’s about 200m north of the park entrance.
Tutti’s RestaurantITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8117; mains $5.50-9; hnoon-9pm)
The place to come for an Italian fix, Tutti’s serves lasagna, penne and spaghetti dishes, and focaccia with cheese. There are also plenty of pizza varieties and loaded calzones – the Caribbean flavor comes with tomato sauce infused with coconut and shrimps, onion and mozzarella. Happy hour (two selected drinks for $10) runs between 3.30pm and 5.30pm.
oMiss Junie’sCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8029; mains US$9-16; h7-9am, noon-2:30pm & 6-9pm)
Over the years, Tortuguero’s best-known and most delicious Caribbean eatery has grown from a personal kitchen to a full-blown restaurant. Prices have climbed accordingly, but the menu remains true to its roots: jerk chicken, filet mignon, whole snapper and coconut-curry mackerel with rice and beans. It’s at the northern end of the main street.
Budda CafeEUROPEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2709-8084; www.buddacafe.com; mains US$10-18, pizzas US$7-9; h1-9pm; Wv)
Ambient club music, Tibetan prayer flags and a river view give this trendy cafe a tranquil vibe. It’s a pleasant setting for pizzas, salads, cocktails and crepes (savory and sweet). Grab a table outside for a prime view of the boats going by and, if you’re lucky, the yellow-bellied flycatchers zipping across the water.
6Drinking & Nightlife
La Taberna Punto de EncuentroBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8877-6515; h11am-2am)
This popular tavern is mellow in the afternoons but draws the party people after dark with cold beer and blaring reggaetón. The main dance floor has a beautiful open-air view of the river.
8Information
The community’s website, Tortuguero Village (www.tortuguerovillage.com), is a solid source of information, listing local businesses and providing comprehensive directions on how to get to the Tortuguero area.
Immediately to the left of the boat landing, the local tour guides’ association is also a good source of tourist information, as is Tortuguero Keysi Tours (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8579-9414; h5:30am-6pm).
Several local accommodations have good internet connections, but many can be iffy during heavy rains.
There’s one new ATM in town, but bring back-up cash as it may run out of money in high season.
8Getting There & Away
If you’re coming from San José, the two most convenient ways to get to Tortuguero are by air or all-inclusive bus-boat shuttles – though budget travelers can save money by taking public transportation. If you’re coming from the southern Caribbean, your best bets are with private boat operators from Moín or shuttle deals from Cahuita and Puerto Viejo.
AIR
The small airstrip is 4km north of Tortuguero village. NatureAir (%2299-6000; www.natureair.com) has early-morning flights to/from San José daily during high season. Charter flights land here regularly as well.
BUS & BOAT
The classic public-transit route to Tortuguero is a bit of a faff, taking four to six hours, but is by far the cheapest option. You’ll travel by bus from San José to Cariari and then La Pavona, and then by boat from La Pavona to Tortuguero. Alternatively, Tortuguero is easily accessible by private boat from Moín (three to four hours).
From San José & Cariari
From San José’s Gran Terminal del Caribe, buy a ticket at the window for one of the early buses (6:10am or 9am) to Cariari (around US$4, two to three hours). In Cariari, buy another ticket from the bus-station window to catch a local Coopetraca bus (%2767-7590; US$2.20, 11:30am & 3pm) to La Pavona (one to two hours), where you’ll transfer onto the boat (US$3.50, 1pm and 4.30pm) to Tortuguero (around one hour).
On the return trip, boats leave Tortuguero for La Pavona daily at 5am, 9am, 11am and 2pm or 3pm, connecting with Cariari-bound buses at the La Pavona dock.
From Moín
Moín–Tortuguero is primarily a tourist route. While there isn’t a scheduled service, boats do cruise these canals frequently. When running, boats typically depart at 10am in either direction, charging US$30 to US$40 for the three- to four-hour trip (US$75 for a return journey). With notice, these same boats can stop in Parismina (one way from either Tortuguero or Moín for US$25 to US$35). Bear in mind that it may take 24 to 48 hours to secure a seat – especially in the low season. For onward transportation beyond Moín, catch a local bus (around US$1, 20 to 30 minutes) to Puerto Limón’s bus terminal.
SHUTTLE SERVICES
If you prefer to leave the planning to someone else, convenient shuttle services can whisk you to Tortuguero from San José, Arenal-La Fortuna or the southern Caribbean coast in just a few hours. Shuttle companies typically offer minivan service to La Pavona or Moín, where waiting boats take you the rest of the way to Tortuguero. This is a relatively inexpensive, hassle-free option, as you only have to buy a single ticket, and guides help you negotiate the van-to-boat transfer.
All Rankin’s Tours Round-trip shuttles to Tortuguero from Moín, including excellent nature guides (from US$70).
Caribe Shuttle (%2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com) Shuttles from Puerto Viejo (US$75, five hours) and Arenal-La Fortuna (US$60, six hours).
Exploradores Outdoors More expensive package deals that include transport from San José, Puerto Viejo or Arenal-La Fortuna, a mid-journey Río Pacuare rafting trip, and accommodation in Tortuguero.
Jungle Tom Safaris (%2221-7878; www.jungletomsafaris.com) Offers one-way shuttles between Tortuguero and San José (US$45). All-inclusive one- and two-night packages (US$99 to US$152) can also include shuttles from Cahuita (US$60), Puerto Viejo (US$60) and Arenal-La Fortuna (US$60), as well as optional tours.
Pleasure Ride (%2750-2113, 2750-0290; www.pleasureridecr.com) Shuttles from Puerto Viejo (from US$75, around 1½ hours) and Cahuita (from US$70, around one hour).
Ride CR (%2469-2525; www.ridecr.com) Shuttles from Arenal-La Fortuna (US$55). Minimum two passengers.
Riverboat Francesca Nature Tours Shuttles from San José to Tortuguero via Moín (from US$75, including lunch) as well as package deals including accommodations.
Terraventuras Overnight shuttle packages from Puerto Viejo (US$99).
Willie’s Tours Shuttles from Cahuita (from US$70).
8Getting Around
Water Taxi (%8966-6425; fares from $10) Friendly Colombian boatman Enrique will ferry you around the local waterways. Prices vary depending on the trip.
Barra del Colorado
At 904 sq km, including the frontier zone with Nicaragua, Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado, or ‘Barra’ for short, is the biggest national wildlife refuge in Costa Rica. It is also one of the most remote – more so since Costa Rica’s commercial airlines suspended service to the area in 2009.
The area has long been a favorite of sportfishers, who arrive to hook gar, tarpon and snook. Those who aren’t into fishing can enjoy the incredible landscape. The Ríos San Juan, Colorado and Chirripó all wind through the refuge and out to the Caribbean Sea through a soggy wetland habitat made up of marshes, mangroves and lagoons. Here you’ll find West Indian manatees, caimans, monkeys, tapirs and three-toed sloths, plus a riotous bird population that includes everything from keel-billed toucans to white hawks. There are countless species of waterbird.
2Activities
Fishing is the bread and butter of area lodges, which can also organize custom wildlife-watching excursions along mangroves, lagoons and canals (from US$40).
Anglers go for tarpon from January to June and snook from September to December. Fishing is good year-round, however, and other catches include barracuda, mackerel and jack crevalle, all inshore; or bluegill, guapote (rainbow bass) and machaca in the rivers. There is also deep-sea fishing for marlin, sailfish and tuna, though this is probably better on the Pacific. Area lodges are experts at arranging fishing trips; dozens of fish can be hooked on a good day, so ‘catch and release’ is an important conservation policy of all the lodges.
TTours
Roberto AbramBOATING
(%8818-8749; 1hr canal tours from $25)
A recommended guide who can be contacted through Casa Marbella in Tortuguero village; he also leads local river trips originating in Barra del Colorado.
4Sleeping
Most of the area’s lodging is west of the airstrip, on the south side of the river. Tarpon Land Lodge (%8818-9921; s/d US$24/32, incl sportfishing & full board US$250/350; as) and Río Colorado Lodge are accessible on foot. Other lodges will have a boat waiting when you arrive with a reservation. There are also a few basic family-run cabinas between the airstrip and the beach, charging roughly US$30 to US$45 per night.
Río Colorado LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2232-4063, in USA 800-243-9777; www.riocoloradolodge.com; fishing packages incl lodging & meals per day US$575; aW)
Owned by a retired Mississippi lawyer, this 18-room lodge is housed in a rambling tropical-style building with breezy rooms connected by covered walkways; there’s also a pool table and a deck with satellite TV. Its bar, within walking distance of the landing strip, attracts a local crowd, and regular afternoon happy hours have reinforced its reputation as a party lodge.
Eat breakfast on the veranda overlooking the river, and enjoy hearty American and Tico food for dinner – from pork chops and roast beef to Southern fried chicken and fresh fruit and vegetables. Fishing packages include lodging, meals, an eight-hour fishing trip and happy hour.
Silver King LodgeLODGE$$$
(%8447-5988, in USA 877-335-0755; www.silverkinglodge.com; 3-day packages per person US$3850; aiWs)
This sportfishing lodge caters to couples, families and friends. Ten huge hardwood rooms have cane ceilings and lots of amenities. Outside, covered walkways lead to a pool, Jacuzzi and sauna. Bounteous meals are served buffet style and an open-air bar whips up cocktails. Rates include equipment, fishing license, air transport to and from San José and one cigar per day. No joke.
8Getting There & Away
The cheapest, but most difficult, way to Barra del Colorado is public bus-boat transportation from Cariari. Coopetraca (%2767-7137) buses go from Cariari to the village of Puerto Lindo (roughly US$5, 2½ hours, 4am and 2pm), then you transfer to the boat for Barra del Colorado (around US$6, 20 minutes). Boat and bus drivers will only accept the local currency: colones.
An alternative, much easier, and more scenic way to reach Barra del Colorado is by chartering a boat from Tortuguero. The 90-minute trip starts at US$100 per boat (the price goes up or down depending on gas prices, season and number of passengers). A recommended guide is Enrique, in Tortuguero village; he also does local trips around Tortuguero’s waterways.
That said, most folks intent on a remote fishing trip arrive by air charter from San José, arranged by individual lodges.
GETTING TO NICARAGUA
The northern border of the refuge is the Río San Juan, which is also the border with Nicaragua (many local residents are Nicaraguan nationals). This area was politically sensitive during the 1980s due to the Nicaraguan conflict. Today, however, it’s possible to journey north along the Río Sarapiquí and east along the Río San Juan, technically entering Nicaragua. Foreign travelers should carry their passport and the official US$35 permit fee when out fishing.
If you’re planning to head further into Nicaragua you can make arrangements with your lodge for a water taxi to take you to the border town of San Juan del Norte – now called San Juan de Nicaragua (or Greytown). It’s a tranquil village with few services but an interesting history. At various times over the centuries it’s been under the control of the Miskito people, Spanish colonists, British troops and even US Marines. Much of it was destroyed during the Contra-Sandinista conflict of the 1980s.
This is a little-used border crossing, however, so don’t make the trip without first checking in with Costa Rican immigration officials. Barra del Colorado has a police checkpoint but does not have a Costa Rican immigration office of its own, meaning that re-entry could be problematic. At the Nicaragua border there is an immigration office; you will have to pay US$2 per boat to enter and US$12 to exit. Río Indio Ecolodge (%2296-0095; www.therioindiolodge.com; San Juan de Nicaragua; s/d incl meals per person US$232/185; iWs) S can help you arrange the finer details of your crossing.
San Juan is linked to the rest of Nicaragua by irregular passenger boats sailing up the Río San Juan to San Carlos, on the Lago de Nicaragua.