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Accommodations

Accommodations come at every price and comfort level: from luxurious ecolodges and sparkling all-inclusive resorts and backpacker palaces to spartan rooms with little more than a bed and four cinderblock walls. The variety and number of rooms on offer, coupled with online booking, means that advance booking is not usually required.

Note that the term cabina (cabin) is a catchall that can define a wide range of prices and amenities, from very rustic to very expensive.

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodations reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

Booking Services

Costa Rica Innkeepers Association (www.costaricainnkeepers.com) A nonprofit association of B&Bs, small hotels, lodges and inns.

Escape Villas (www.villascostarica.com) High-end accommodations across Costa Rica, most near Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, which are suitable for families and honeymooners looking for luxury.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/costa-rica/hotels) Recommendations and bookings.

Apartments & Villas

The network of long-term rentals has grown dramatically in recent years. These can be an excellent option for families, as they typically include a kitchen and several bedrooms. In many beach towns, vacation villas and apartments of varying quality are rented by the week, month or longer, and some come with resort access, beach toys and other amenities. Many restaurants now offer rooms in the back, and some are surprisingly nice.

B&Bs

Generally speaking, B&Bs in Costa Rica tend to be midrange to top-end affairs, often run by resident European and North American expats. You can find B&Bs listed in the Tico Times. Many homeowners now list their properties on airbnb.com, to the chagrin of tax-paying hoteliers.

Camping

ACamping on Costa Rica’s coasts is not legal but is widely tolerated. Many local families camp at the beach during the holidays.

AMost major tourist destinations have at least one campground and most budget hotels outside San José accommodate campers on their grounds. Although these sites usually include toilets, cold showers and basic self-catering facilities (sink and barbecue pit), they can be crowded and noisy.

AIn most national parks, campsites are usually of excellent quality and rigorously cleaned and maintained by staff. As a rule, you will need to carry in all of your food and supplies, and carry out all of your trash.

ATheft is a major concern; don’t leave anything in your tent unattended. Camp in a group if possible.

ADon’t camp near riverbanks, which are prone to flooding and home to snakes.

AMosquito nets and repellent with DEET are often essential.

Hostels

Although there is still a handful of Hostelling International (HI) hostels left in Costa Rica, the backpacker scene has gone increasingly upmarket; the era of the ‘resort hostel’, complete with bars, pools and entertainment centers, is in full swing. Compared to other destinations in Central America, hostels in Costa Rica tend to be fairly expensive, though the quality of service and accommodations is unequaled. Expect to pay between US$10 and US$15 for a dorm bed.

Hotels

AIt’s always advisable to ask to see a room – including the bathroom – before committing to a stay, especially in budget lodgings. Rooms within a single hotel can vary greatly.

ASome pricier hotels will require confirmation of a reservation with a credit card. Before doing so, note that some top-end hotels require a 50% to 100% deposit up front when you reserve. This rule is not always clearly communicated.

AIn most cases reservations can be canceled and refunded with enough notice. Ask the hotel about its cancellation policy before booking. It is often easier to make the reservation than to unmake it.

AMany hotels charge a hefty service fee for credit-card use.

AHave the hotel fax or email you a confirmation. Hotels often get overbooked, and if you don’t have a confirmation, you could be out of a room.

ATo compete with online booking services, some hotels offer a discount if you book direct, or if you pay in cash.

Prices & Accommodations

Many lodgings lower their prices during the low (rainy, aka ‘green’ season) season, from May to November. Prices change quickly and many hotels charge per person rather than per room – read rates carefully and always check ahead. US dollars are the preferred currency for listing rates in Costa Rica. However, colones are accepted everywhere and are usually exchanged at current rates without an additional fee. Paying with a credit card sometimes incurs a surcharge and cash discounts are sometimes on offer.

Budget

ABudget accommodations in the most popular regions of the country are much sought after and need to be booked well in advance during high season.

AThe cheapest places generally have shared bathrooms, but it’s still possible to get a double with a bathroom for US$25 in towns off the tourist trail.

AAt the top end of the budget scale, rooms will frequently include a fan and a bathroom with hot water.

AHot water in showers is often supplied by electric showerheads (don’t touch!), which will dispense hot water if the pressure is kept low.

AMost budget hotels also have a few midrange options with more amenities, including air-con and TV.

AWi-fi is increasingly available at budget accommodations, particularly in popular tourist destinations, but sometimes only in the main lobby area.

Midrange

AMidrange rooms will be more comfortable than budget options, and will generally include a bathroom with gas-heated hot water, a choice between fans and air-con, and cable or satellite TV.

AMost midrange hotels have wi-fi, though it’s sometimes limited to the area near reception or the office.

AMany midrange places offer tour services, and will have an onsite restaurant or bar and a swimming pool or Jacuzzi.

AHotels in this price range often offer kitchenettes or even full kitchens. Some offer complimentary breakfast.

Top End

ATop-end accommodations include many ecolodges, all-inclusive resorts, and business and chain hotels, in addition to a strong network of intimate boutique hotels, remote jungle camps and upmarket B&Bs.

ACosta Rica’s top-end lodgings adhere to the same standards of quality and service as similarly priced accommodations in North America and Europe.

AStaff will likely speak English.

AMany top-end lodgings include amenities such as hot-water bathtubs, Jacuzzis, private decks, satellite TV and air-con, as well as concierge, tour and spa services.

AA typical breakfast is usually gallo pinto (a stir-fry of rice and beans). This national breakfast dish is usually served with eggs, cheese or natilla (sour cream). Tropical-style continental breakfasts are also offered.

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard double room with bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated a combined tourism and sales tax of 13% is included in the price.

$ less than US$50

$$ US$50–US$100

$$$ more than US$100

Climate

Customs Regulations

AAll travelers over the age of 18 are allowed to enter the country with 5L of wine or spirits and 500g of processed tobacco (roughly 400 cigarettes or 50 cigars).

ACamera gear, binoculars, and camping, snorkeling and other sporting equipment are readily allowed into the country.

ADogs and cats are permitted entry providing they have obtained both general-health and rabies-vaccination certificates.

APornography and illicit drugs are prohibited.

Discount Cards

Note that discount cards are not universally accepted at museums and parks.

Costa Rica Discount+ (http://costaricadiscount.com; from US$20/50 for six/60 days) Discounts on car rental, activities and hotels of up to 20%. One card is valid for up to eight people and one vehicle. Buy it online and print it.

International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic.org; around US$20 depending on country of origin) Discounts on museum and tour fees for any full-time student.

International Student Exchange (ISE; www.isecard.com; around US$25 depending on country of origin) Discounts on museums and tour fees for full-time students between 12 and 26 years old.

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Australia and New Zealand do not have consular representation in Costa Rica; their closest embassies are in Mexico City. Most countries are represented in San José. Mornings are the best time to go to embassies and consulates.

Canadian Embassy (%2242-4400; www.costarica.gc.ca; Oficentro Ejecutivo La Sabana, 3rd fl, Edificio 5, Sabana Sur; h7:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri) Behind La Contraloría.

Dutch Embassy (%2296-1490; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl/landen/costa-rica; Oficentro La Sabana, Edificio 3, 3rd fl, Sabana Sur; h7:30am-4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 12:30pm Fri)

French Embassy (%2234-4167; www.ambafrance-cr.org; Av 22, Curridabat; h7:30am-12:30pm Mon-Fri) On the A022, off the D022 (a smaller road off Rte 2, the road to Curridabat).

German Embassy (%2290-9091; www.san-jose.diplo.de; 8th fl, Edificio Torre Sabana, Sabana Norte; h8am-noon Mon-Fri) Northwest of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana.

Guatemalan Embassy (%2220-1297, 2291-6172; www.minex.gob.gt; Calle 64, Sabana Sur; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) Southwest Parque Metropolitano La Sabana.

Honduran Embassy (%2231-1642; www.embajadahonduras.co.cr; Blvr Rohrmoser; h9am-noon & 1:30-4pm Mon-Fri)

Israeli Embassy (%2221-6444; 11th fl, Edificio Colón, Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)

Italian Embassy (%2224-6574, 2224-1082; www.ambsanjose.esteri.it; Calle 43, Los Yoses; h9am-noon Mon-Fri) Between Avs 2 and 8.

Mexican Embassy (%2257-0633; https://embamex.sre.gob.mx/costarica/; Av 7 btwn Calles 13 & 15; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Northwest of Parque National.

Nicaraguan Embassy (%2221-2884, 2233 8001; Av Central 2540 btwn Calles 25 & 27; h9am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri) On the corner of 25A, in Carmen (San José).

Panamanian Embassy (%2281-2442; www.facebook.com/EmbajadadePanamaenCostaRica/; cnr Av 10 & Calle 69, Barrio La Granja; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) A block north of Parque El Retiro in San Pedro (San José).

Spanish Embassy (%2222-1933, 2222-5745; www.exteriores.gob.es; Calle 32 btwn Paseo Colón & Av 2; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)

Swiss Embassy (%2221-4829; www.eda.admin.ch/sanjose; 10th fl, Edificio Centro Colón, Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; h9am-noon Mon-Fri)

UK Embassy (%2258-2025; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-in-costa-rica; 11th fl, Edificio Centro Colón, Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; h8am-noon & 12:15-4pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri)

US Embassy (%2519-2000; https://cr.usembassy.gov; cnr Av Central & Calle 120; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Opposite Centro Comercial del Oeste in Pavas (San José).

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard meal. Unless otherwise stated, tax is included in the price.

$ less than US$10

$$ US$10–US$15

$$$ more than US$15

Health

Travelers to Central America need to be vigilant about food- and mosquito-borne infections. Most of the illnesses most frequently caught while on holiday here are not life threatening, but they can certainly ruin your trip. Besides getting the proper vaccinations, it’s important to use a good insect repellent and exercise care in what you eat and drink.

Before You Go

Health Insurance

High-risk adventure activities or water sports such as diving are not covered on all travel policies, so make sure you pay for the appropriate level of insurance coverage. Yours may cover basic activities, such as walking, but not ziplining or surfing; if diving, some companies may only cover you up to a certain number of dives or a certain depth. If unsure, check with your insurer before leaving your home country.

A list of medical evacuation and travel-insurance companies can be found on the US State Department (www.travel.state.gov) website under the ‘Before You Go’ tab.

Recommended Vaccinations

AGet necessary vaccinations four to eight weeks before departure.

AAsk your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the ‘yellow booklet’), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received. This is mandatory for countries that require proof of yellow-fever vaccination upon entry (Costa Rica only requires such proof if you are entering from a country that carries a risk of yellow fever).

In Costa Rica

Availability & Cost of Health Care

AGood medical care is available in most major cities but may be limited in rural areas.

AFor an extensive list of physicians, dentists and hospitals, visit https://cr.usembassy.gov and look under ‘U.S. Citizen Services/Medical Assistance/Medical Practitioners List.’

AMost pharmacies are well supplied and a handful are open 24 hours. Pharmacists are licensed to prescribe medication. If you’re taking any medication on a regular basis, make sure you know its generic (scientific) name, since many pharmaceuticals go under different names in Costa Rica.

Environmental Hazards

Animal bites Do not attempt to pet, handle or feed any animal. Any bite or scratch by a mammal, including bats, should be promptly and thoroughly cleansed with large amounts of soap and water, and an antiseptic such as iodine or alcohol should be applied. Contact a local health authority in the event of such an injury. Rabies cases are rare but do happen.

Insect bites No matter how much you safeguard yourself, getting bitten by mosquitoes is part of every traveler’s experience here. The best prevention is to stay covered up – wear long pants, long sleeves, a hat, and shoes, not sandals. Invest in a good insect repellent, preferably one containing DEET. Apply to exposed skin and clothing (but not to eyes, mouth, cuts, wounds or irritated skin). Compounds containing DEET should not be used on children under the age of two and should be used sparingly on children under 12. Invest in a bug net to hang over beds (along with a few thumbtacks or nails with which to hang it). Many hotels in Costa Rica don’t have windows (or screens), and a cheap little net will save you plenty of nighttime aggravation. The mesh size should be less than 1.5mm. Dusk is the worst time for mosquitoes, so take extra precautions then.

Sun Stay out of the midday sun, wear sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, and apply sunblock with SPF 15 or higher, with both UVA and UVB protection and reapply often, especially if getting in the sea or rivers. Drink plenty of fluids and avoid strenuous exercise when the temperature is high.

Infectious Diseases

Dengue fever (breakbone fever) Dengue is transmitted by Aedes aegypti mosquitoes, which often bite during the daytime and are usually found close to human habitations, often indoors. Dengue is especially common in densely populated urban environments. It usually causes flu-like symptoms including fever, muscle aches, joint pains, headaches, nausea and vomiting, often followed by a rash. Most cases resolve uneventfully in a few days. There is no treatment for dengue fever except taking analgesics such as acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) and drinking plenty of fluids. Severe cases may require hospitalization for intravenous fluids and supportive care. There is no vaccine. The key to prevention is taking insect-protection measures.

Hepatitis A The second most common travel-related infection (after traveler’s diarrhea). It’s a viral infection of the liver that is usually acquired by ingestion of contaminated water, food or ice, though it may also be acquired by direct contact with infected persons. Symptoms may include fever, malaise, jaundice, nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain. Most cases resolve without complications, though hepatitis A occasionally causes severe liver damage. There is no treatment. The vaccine for hepatitis A is extremely safe and highly effective.

Leishmaniasis This is transmitted by sand flies. Most cases occur in newly cleared forest or areas of secondary growth; the highest incidence is in Talamanca. It causes slow-growing ulcers over exposed parts of the body. There is no vaccine. To protect yourself from sand flies, follow the same precautions as for mosquitoes.

Malaria Malaria is very rare in Costa Rica, occurring only occasionally in rural parts of Limón Province. It’s transmitted by mosquito bites, usually between dusk and dawn. Taking malaria pills is not necessary unless you are making a long stay in the province of Limón (not Puerto Limón). Protection against mosquito bites is most effective.

Traveler’s diarrhea Tap water is safe and of high quality in Costa Rica, but when you’re far off the beaten path it’s best to avoid tap water unless it has been boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected (with iodine tablets). To prevent diarrhea, be wary of dairy products that might contain unpasteurized milk and be highly selective when eating food from street vendors. If you develop diarrhea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids, preferably with an oral rehydration solution containing lots of salt and sugar. If diarrhea is bloody or persists for more than 72 hours, or is accompanied by fever, shaking chills or severe abdominal pain, seek medical attention.

Typhoid Caused by ingestion of food or water contaminated by a species of salmonella known as Salmonella typhi. Fever occurs in virtually all cases. Other symptoms may include headache, malaise, muscle aches, dizziness, loss of appetite, nausea and abdominal pain. Possible complications include intestinal perforation, intestinal bleeding, confusion, delirium or (rarely) coma. A pretrip vaccination is recommended.

Zika virus At the time of research, pregnant women are advised against traveling to Costa Rica, as the virus may be linked to microcephaly, a birth defect that affects a baby’s brain development. Zika is primarily transmitted by mosquitoes, but it can also be transmitted by a man to his sexual partner or by a woman to her fetus. Be aware that symptoms are usually mild in adults, and many people may not realize that they are infected.

Chikungunya virus The newest mosquito-borne viral disease was accidentally introduced to Costa Rica from Africa, and carried from Aedes albopictus or Tiger mosquitoes. The symptoms are similar to those of dengue fever (high fever, joint inflammation, a skin rash, headache, muscle aches, nausea), and so are the treatments – replace fluids, reduce fever and wait it out. Unlike dengue, it’s very unlikely to be fatal, and once you get it you’ll probably develop an immunity. The best prevention is to cover up with long sleeves and DEET.

Tap Water

AIt’s generally safe to drink tap water in Costa Rica, except in the most rural and undeveloped parts of the country. However, if you prefer to be cautious, buying bottled water is your best bet.

AIf you have the means, vigorous boiling for one minute is the most effective means of water purification. At altitudes greater than 2000m, boil for three minutes.

AAnother option is to disinfect water with iodine pills: add 2% tincture of iodine to 1L of water (five drops to clear water, 10 drops to cloudy water) and let stand for 30 minutes. If the water is cold, longer times may be required.

AAlternatively, carry a SteriPen that destroys most bacteria, viruses and protozoa with UV light.

Insurance

It’s vital that travelers purchase the right type of travel insurance before coming to Costa Rica. Basic insurance tends to cover medical expenses, baggage loss, trip cancellation, accidents and personal liability, but it’s worth spending extra to make sure you’re covered in the event of natural disasters. If you intend to take part in adventure sports, make sure that those particular sports are covered by your policy; for divers, some policies only cover you up to a certain depth.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access

AThe number of internet cafes in Costa Rica has greatly decreased with the advent of smartphones, and wi-fi in restaurants and cafes.

AExpect to pay US$1 to US$2 per hour at internet cafes in San José and tourist towns.

AWi-fi is common in all midrange and top-end hotels, and in the vast majority of budget hotels and hostels. Some hostels still have computers for guest use and/or wi-fi.

Language Courses

ASpanish-language schools operate all over Costa Rica and charge by the hour for instruction.

AMany courses can be found in central San José and the suburb of San Pedro, and the Central Valley.

AIt’s best to arrange classes in advance. A good clearinghouse is the Institute for Spanish Language Studies (ISLS; %505-404-0736, in USA 866-391-0394; www.isls.com), which has eight schools in Costa Rica.

Legal Matters

AIf you are arrested your embassy can offer limited assistance. Embassy officials will not bail you out and you are subject to Costa Rican laws, not the laws of your own country.

AThe use of recreational substances other than tobacco and alcohol is illegal in Costa Rica and punishable by imprisonment.

LGBT Travelers

In Costa Rica the situation facing gay and lesbian travelers is better than in most Central American countries, and some areas of the country – particularly Quepos and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio – have been gay vacation destinations for two decades. Homosexual acts are legal, and in 2015 Costa Rica became the first country in Central America to recognize gay relationships. Still, most Costa Ricans are tolerant of homosexuality only at a ‘don’t ask, don’t tell’ level. Same-sex couples are unlikely to be the subject of harassment, though public displays of affection might attract unwanted attention.

The undisputed gay and lesbian capital of Costa Rica is Manuel Antonio; while there, you can pick up an issue of Playita (www.gaymanuelantonio.com/playita-magazine.html). The Spanish-language magazine Gente 10 (www.gente10.com) is available at gay bars in San José.

Agua Buena Human Rights Association (%2280-3548; www.aguabuena.org) This noteworthy nonprofit organization has campaigned steadily for fairness in medical treatment for people living with HIV/AIDS in Costa Rica.

Center of Investigation & Promotion of Human Rights in Central America (CIPAC; %2280-7821; www.cipacdh.org) The leading gay activist organization in Costa Rica.

Toto Tours (%800-565-1241, in USA 773-274-8686; www.tototours.com) Gay-travel specialist that organizes regular trips to Costa Rica, among other destinations.

Maps

Unfortunately, detailed maps are hard to come by in Costa Rica, so it’s best to purchase one online before your trip.

AThe excellent, water-resistant 1:350,000 Costa Rica Adventure Map published by National Geographic also has an inset map of San José. Available online or in various book and gift shops in San José.

AAnother quality option is the 1:330,000 Costa Rica sheet produced by International Travel Map, which is waterproof and includes a San José inset.

AFundación Neotrópica (%2253-2130; www.neotropica.org) publishes a 1:500,000 map showing national parks and other protected areas; it’s available online and in San José bookstores.

AThe Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (ICT; Costa Rican Tourism Board) publishes a 1:700,000 Costa Rica map with a 1:12,500 Central San José map on the reverse; it’s free at the ICT office in San José.

AMaptak (www.maptak.com) has maps of Costa Rica’s seven provinces and their capitals.

AFew national-park offices or ranger stations have maps for hikers.

AInstituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN; %2202-0777; 215, Zapote; h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) in San José has topographical maps available for purchase.

AIncafo formerly published the Mapa-Guía de la Naturaleza Costa Rica, an atlas that included 1:200,000 topographical sheets, as well as English and Spanish descriptions of Costa Rica’s natural areas. Used copies can be purchased online.

WHAT’S THAT ADDRESS?

Though some larger cities have streets that have been dutifully named, signage is rare in Costa Rica and finding a Tico who knows what street they are standing on is even rarer. Everybody uses landmarks when providing directions; an address may be given as 200m south and 150m east of a church. A city block is cien metros – literally 100m – so 250 metros al sur means ‘2½ blocks south,’ regardless of the distance. Churches, parks, office buildings, fast-food joints and car dealerships are the most common landmarks used – but these are often meaningless to the foreign traveler, who will have no idea where the Subaru dealership is to begin with. Even more confusingly, Ticos frequently refer to landmarks that no longer exist. In San Pedro, outside San José, locals still use the site of an old fig tree (el antiguo higuerón) to provide directions.

Confused? Get used to it…

Money

ATMs

ATMs are ubiquitous, typically dispensing colones; many dispense US dollars. They are not easily found in rural and remote areas.

Bargaining

AA high standard of living along with a stream of international tourist traffic means that the Latin American tradition of haggling is uncommon in Costa Rica.

ANegotiating prices at outdoor markets is acceptable, as is bargaining when arranging informal tours or hiring long-distance taxis.

Cash & Currency

AThe Costa Rican currency is the colón (plural colones), named after Cristóbal Colón (Christopher Columbus).

ABills come in 1000-, 2000-, 5000-, 10,000-, 20,000- and 50,000-colón notes, while coins come in denominations of five, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100 and 500 colones.

APaying for things in US dollars is common, and at times is encouraged, since the currency is viewed as being more stable than the colón.

AIn US-dollar transactions the change will usually be given in colones.

ANewer US dollars are preferred throughout Costa Rica; if your note has a rip in it, it may not be accepted.

AWhen paying in US dollars at a local restaurant, bar or shop the exchange rate can be unfavorable.

Changing Money

All banks will exchange US dollars, and some will exchange euros and British pounds; other currencies are more difficult. Most banks have excruciatingly long lines, especially at the state-run institutions (Banco Nacional, Banco de Costa Rica, Banco Popular), though they don’t charge commissions on cash exchanges. Private banks (Banex, Banco Interfin, Scotiabank) tend to be faster. Make sure the bills you want to exchange are in good condition or they may be refused.

DOLLARS VERSUS COLONES

While colones are the official currency of Costa Rica, US dollars are virtually legal tender. Case in point: most ATMs in large towns and cities will dispense both currencies. However, it pays to know where and when you should be paying with each currency.

In Costa Rica you can use US dollars to pay for hotel rooms, midrange to top-end meals, admission fees for sights, tours, domestic flights, international buses, car hire, private shuttle buses and big-ticket purchases. Local meals and drinks, domestic bus fares, taxis and small purchases should be paid for in colones.

Credit Cards

ACards are widely accepted at midrange and top-end hotels, as well as at top-end restaurants and some travel agencies; they are less likely to be accepted in small towns and in remote areas.

AA transaction fee (around 3% to 5%) on all international credit-card purchases is often added.

AHolders of credit and debit cards can buy colones in some banks, though expect to pay a high transaction fee.

AAll car-rental agencies require drivers to have a credit card. It’s possible to hire a car with just a debit card, but only on the condition that you pay for full insurance and leave a deposit for traffic violations.

Taxes & Refunds

Travelers will notice a 13% sales tax at hotels and restaurants, although many smaller budget and midrange businesses have been known to waive the tax if you pay in cash.

Tipping

Restaurants Your bill will usually include a 10% service charge. If not, you might leave a small tip.

Hotels Tip the bellhop/porter US$1 to US$5 per service and the housekeeper US$1 to US$2 per day in top-end hotels, less in budget places.

Taxis Tip only if some special service is provided.

Guides Tip US$5 to US$15 per person per day. Tip the tour driver about half of what you tip the guide.

Traveler’s Checks

With the popularity of ATMs and credit cards, traveler’s checks are increasingly uncommon in Costa Rica and difficult to exchange outside big cities. They can be exchanged at banks, typically only for US dollars or Costa Rican colones.

Opening Hours

The following are high-season opening hours; hours will generally shorten in the shoulder and low seasons. Generally, sights, activities and restaurants are open daily.

Banks 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, sometimes 9am to noon Saturday

Bars and clubs 8pm to 2am

Government offices 8am and 5pm Monday to Friday; often closed between 11:30am and 1:30pm

Restaurants 7am to 9pm; upscale places may open only for dinner, and in remote areas even the small sodas (inexpensive eateries) might open only at specific meal times

Shops 8am to 6pm Monday to Saturday

Photography

AAlways ask permission to take someone’s photo.

AWith the prominence of digital cameras, it is increasingly difficult to purchase high-quality film in Costa Rica.

ALonely Planet’s Guide to Travel Photography is full of helpful tips for photography while on the road.

Post

AMailing smaller parcels (less than 2kg) internationally is quite reliable; for example, a 1kg package costs upwards of US$30 to ship to North America and takes one to two weeks to arrive.

AEMS (Express Mail Service) courier service costs a bit more but includes tracking and is speedier.

Public Holidays

Días feriados (national holidays) are taken seriously in Costa Rica. Banks, public offices and many stores close. During these times, public transport is tight and hotels are heavily booked. Many festivals coincide with public holidays.

New Year’s Day January 1

Semana Santa (Holy Week; March or April) The Thursday and Friday before Easter Sunday is the official holiday, though most businesses shut down for the whole week. From Thursday to Sunday bars are closed and alcohol sales are prohibited; on Thursday and Friday buses stop running.

Día de Juan Santamaría (April 11) Honors the national hero who died fighting William Walker in 1856; major events are held in Alajuela, his hometown.

Labor Day May 1

Día de la Madre (Mother’s Day; August 15) Coincides with the annual Catholic Feast of the Assumption.

Independence Day September 15

Día de la Raza (Columbus Day) October 12.

Christmas Day (December 25) Christmas Eve is also an unofficial holiday.

Last week in December The week between Christmas and New Year is an unofficial holiday; businesses close and beach hotels are crowded.

PRACTICALITIES

Media

La Nación (www.nacion.com) Spanish-language daily newspaper.

La Prensa Libre (www.laprensalibre.cr) Launched in 1889, this is the oldest continually published daily newspaper in Costa Rica. Spanish language.

Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net) Costa Rica’s online English-language newspaper. It’s high quality, though news and views are often geared toward the expat community.

Costa Rican Times (www.costaricantimes.com) This online, English-language newcomer focuses on Costa Rican happenings but also features international news.

DVDs In Costa Rica DVDs are region 4.

Weights & Measures

Costa Ricans use the metric system for weights, distances and measures.

Safe Travel

Costa Rica is a largely safe country, but petty crime (bag snatchings, car break-ins etc) is common and muggings do occur, so it’s important to be vigilant.

AMany of Costa Rica’s dangers are nature related: riptides, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions are among them.

APredatory and venomous wildlife can also pose a threat, so a wildlife guide is essential if trekking in the jungle.

Earthquakes & Volcanic Eruptions

Costa Rica lies on the edge of active tectonic plates, so it is decidedly earthquake prone. Recent major quakes occurred in 1990 (7.1 on the Richter scale), 1991 (7.4) and 2012 (7.6). Smaller quakes and tremors happen quite often (one area that sees particularly frequent seismic activity is the Península de Nicoya), cracking roads and knocking down telephone lines.

Two of the most popular volcanoes in Costa Rica, Poás and Turrialba, have been very active recently with a number of eruptions of varying degrees since 2014 and 2015. Due to safety concerns, the national parks surrounding these protected sites were closed at the time of research. Check the status of each before you visit.

Hiking Hazards

Hikers setting out into the wilderness should be adequately prepared.

AKnow your limits and don’t set out to do a hike you can’t reasonably complete.

ACarry plenty of water, even on very short trips.

ACarry maps, extra food and a compass.

ALet someone know where you are going, so they can narrow the search area in the event of an emergency.

ABe aware that Costa Rica’s wildlife can pose a threat to hikers, particularly in Parque Nacional Corcovado.

Riptides

Each year Costa Rican waters see more than 100 drownings, the majority of which are caused by riptides (strong currents that pull the swimmer in different directions). Many deaths due to riptides are caused by panicked swimmers struggling to the point of exhaustion. If you are caught in a riptide, do not struggle. Swim parallel to shore; eventually the riptide will dissipate. Alternatively, you can float until the riptide dissipates, then swim parallel to shore and back in where there is no riptide.

Thefts & Muggings

The biggest danger that most travelers face is theft, primarily from pickpockets, but also when personal possessions are left in parked cars. There is a lot of petty crime in Costa Rica, so keep an eye on your belongings and your surroundings at all times.

Telephone

AMobile service now covers most of the country and nearly all of the country that is accessible to tourists.

APublic phones are found all over Costa Rica, and chip or Colibrí phone cards are available in 1000-, 2000- and 3000-colón denominations.

AChip cards are inserted into the phone and scanned. Colibrí cards (more common) require you to dial a toll-free number (199) and enter an access code. Instructions are provided in English or Spanish.

AThe cheapest international calls from Costa Rica are direct-dialed using a phone card. To make international calls, dial ‘00’ followed by the country code and number.

APay phones cannot receive international calls.

ATo call Costa Rica from abroad, use the country code (506) before the eight-digit number.

ADue to the widespread popularity of voice-over IP services such as Skype, and more reliable ethernet connections, traveling with a smartphone or tablet can be the cheapest and easiest way to call internationally.

Time

Costa Rica is six hours behind GMT, so Costa Rican time is equivalent to Central Time in North America. There is no daylight saving time.

Toilets

APublic restrooms are rare, but most restaurants and cafes will let you use their facilities, sometimes for a small charge – never more than 500 colones.

ABus terminals and other major public buildings usually have toilets, also at a charge.

ADon’t flush your toilet paper. Costa Rican plumbing is often poor and has very low pressure.

ADispose of toilet paper in the rubbish bin inside the bathroom.

Tourist Information

AThe government-run Costa Rica Tourism Board, the ICT (www.ict.go.cr/en), has an office in the capital; English is spoken.

AThe ICT can provide you with free maps, a master bus schedule, information on road conditions in the hinterlands, and a helpful brochure with up-to-date emergency numbers for every region.

AConsult the ICT’s English-language website for information.

GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca)

Dutch government (www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl)

German Federal Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de/de)

Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.anzen.mofa.go.jp)

New Zealand government (www.safetravel.govt.nz)

US State Department (http://travel.state.gov)

Travelers with Disabilities

Independent travel in Costa Rica is difficult for anyone with mobility constraints. Although Costa Rica has an equal-opportunity law, the law applies only to new or newly remodeled businesses and is loosely enforced. Therefore, very few hotels and restaurants have features specifically suited to wheelchair use. Many don’t have ramps, and room or bathroom doors are rarely wide enough to accommodate a wheelchair.

Streets and sidewalks are potholed and poorly paved, making wheelchair use frustrating at best. Public buses don’t have provisions to carry wheelchairs, and most national parks and outdoor tourist attractions don’t have trails suited to wheelchair use. Notable exceptions include Parque Nacional Volcán Poás – closed at the time of research due to volcanic activity – and the Rainforest Adventures aerial tram.

Download Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel.

Visas

Passport-carrying nationals of the following countries are allowed 90 days’ stay with no visa: Argentina, Australia, Canada, Chile, Iceland, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Mexico, New Zealand, Panama, South Africa, the US and most Western European countries.

Most other visitors require a visa from a Costa Rican embassy or consulate.

For the latest info on visas, check the websites of the ICT (www.ict.go.cr/en) or the Costa Rican Embassy (www.costarica-embassy.org).

Extensions

AExtending your stay beyond the authorized 30 or 90 days is time-consuming; it’s easier to leave the country for 72 hours and then re-enter.

AExtensions can be handled by migración offices (%in Juan Santamaria International Airport 2299-8001, in Puerto Limón 2798-2097, in Puntarenas 2661-1445, in San José 2299-8100; www.migracion.go.cr).

ARequirements for extensions change, so allow several working days.

Volunteering

Costa Rica offers a huge number of volunteer opportunities. Word of mouth is a powerful influence on future participants, so the majority of programs in Costa Rica are very conscientious about pleasing their volunteers. Almost all placements require a commitment of two weeks or more.

Lonely Planet does not vouch for any organization that we do not work with directly, and we strongly recommend travelers always investigate a volunteer opportunity themselves to assess the standards and suitability of the project.

Teaching English

Amerispan Study Abroad (www.amerispan.com) Offers a variety of educational travel programs in specialized areas.

Sustainable Horizon (www.sustainablehorizon.com) Arranges volunteering trips such as guest-teaching spots.

Forestry Management

Cloudbridge Nature Reserve (www.cloudbridge.org) Trail building, construction, tree planting and projects monitoring the recovery of the cloud forest are offered to volunteers, who pay for their own housing with a local family. Preference is given to biology students, but all enthusiastic volunteers can apply.

Tropical Science Center (www.cct.or.cr) This long-standing NGO offers volunteer placement at Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. Projects can include trail maintenance and conservation work.

Fundación Corcovado (www.corcovadofoundation.org) An impressive network of people and organizations committed to preserving Parque Nacional Corcovado.

Monteverde Institute (www.monteverde-institute.org) A nonprofit educational institute offering training in tropical biology, conservation and sustainable development.

Organic Farming

WWOOF Costa Rica (www.wwoofcostarica.org) This loose network of farms is part of the large international network of Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOF). Placements are incredibly varied. WWOOF Mexico, Costa Rica, Guatemala and Belize have a joint US$33 membership, which gives potential volunteers access to all placement listings.

Reserva Biológica Dúrika (www.durika.org) A sustainable community on an 85-sq-km biological reserve.

Finca La Flor de Paraíso (www.la-flor.org) Offers programs in a variety of disciplines from animal husbandry to medicinal-herb cultivation.

Punta Mona (www.puntamona.org) An organic farm and retreat center that focuses on organic permaculture and sustainable living.

Rancho Margot (www.ranchomargot.com) This self-proclaimed life-skills university offers a natural education emphasizing organic farming and animal husbandry.

Wildlife Conservation

Be aware that conservationists in Costa Rica occasionally face harassment or worse from local poachers and that police are pretty ineffectual in following up incidents.

Earthwatch (www.earthwatch.org) This broadly recognized international volunteer organization works in sea-turtle conservation in Costa Rica.

Sea Turtle Conservancy (www.conserveturtles.org) From March to October, this Tortuguero organization hosts ‘eco-volunteer adventures’ working with sea turtles and birds.

Profelis (www.grafischer.com/profelis) A feline-conservation program that takes care of confiscated wild cats, both big and small.

Reserva Playa Tortuga (www.reservaplayatortuga.org) Assist with olive-ridley-turtle conservation efforts near Ojochal.

Asociacion Salvemos las Tortugas de Parismina (ASTOP, Save the Turtles of Parismina; %2798-2220; homestays per night incl 3 meals & patrols US$28, registration fee US$35; hby arrangement Mar-Sep) S Help protect turtles and their eggs, and help improve quality of life for villagers in this tiny community.

SEX TRADE

Exit the baggage claim at the international airport in San José and you’ll be welcomed by a sign that reads ‘In Costa Rica sex with children under 18 is a serious crime. Should you engage in it we will drive you to jail.’ For decades, travelers have arrived in Costa Rica in search of sandy beaches and lush mountainscapes; unfortunately, an unknown percentage of them also come in search of sex – not all of it legal.

Prostitution by men and women over the age of 18 is legal. With the tourist juggernaut of the last few decades has come unwanted illicit activities at its fringes – namely child prostitution and human trafficking. Sex with a minor in Costa Rica is illegal, carrying a penalty of up to 10 years in jail, but child prostitution has nonetheless grown. In fact, a number of aid groups, along with the country’s national child-welfare agency (Patronato Nacional de la Infancia; PANI), estimate that there may be more than 3000 child prostitutes in San José alone. In turn, this has led to women and children being trafficked for the purpose of sexual exploitation, as documented in a 2008 report issued by the US Department of State.

Alarm over the problem has increased steadily since 1999, when the UN Committee on Human Rights issued a statement saying that it was ‘deeply concerned’ about child-sex tourism in Costa Rica. Since then, the government has established national task forces to combat the problem, trained the police force in how to deal with issues of child exploitation and formed a coalition against human trafficking. But enforcement remains weak – largely due to lack of personnel and lack of funding. Meanwhile the US – the principal source of sex tourists to Costa Rica – has made it a prosecutable crime for Americans to have sex with minors anywhere in the world.

Along with Thailand and Cambodia, Costa Rica is one of the most popular sex-tourism destinations in the world, according to Ecpat International, a nonprofit dedicated to ending child prostitution. The phenomenon has been magnified by the internet: entire sex-tourism websites chronicle – in detail – where and how to find sex. In all of these, Costa Rica figures prominently.

Various organizations fight the sexual exploitation of children in Costa Rica. See the websites of Ecpat International (www.ecpat.org) and Cybertipline (www.cybertipline.com) to learn more about the problem or to report any incidents you encounter.

Women Travelers

Most female travelers experience little more than a ‘mi amor’ (‘my love’) or an appreciative glance from the local men. But, in general, Costa Rican men consider foreign women to have looser morals and to be easier conquests than Ticas (female Costa Ricans). Men will often make flirtatious comments to single women, particularly blondes, and women traveling together are not exempt. The best response is to do what Ticas do: ignore it completely. Women who firmly resist unwanted verbal advances from men are normally treated with respect.

AIn small highland towns, dress is usually conservative. Women rarely wear shorts, but belly-baring tops are all the rage. On the beach, skimpy bathing suits are OK, but topless and nude bathing is not.

ASolo women travelers should avoid hitchhiking.

ADo not take unlicensed ‘pirate’ taxis (licensed taxis are red and have medallions) as there have been reports of assaults on women by unlicensed drivers.

Work

It is difficult for foreigners to find work in Costa Rica. The only foreigners legally employed in Costa Rica are those who work for their own businesses, possess skills not found in the country, or work for companies that have special agreements with the government.

Getting a bona fide job necessitates obtaining a work permit, which can be a time-consuming and difficult process. The most likely source of paid employment is as an English teacher at one of the language institutes, or working in the hospitality industry in a hotel or resort. Naturalists or river guides may also be able to find work with private lodges or adventure travel operators, though you shouldn’t expect to make more than survival wages.

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