Pumpkin Spice Cake

Makes: At least 10 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Move over pumpkin pie; there’s a new favorite on the Thanksgiving table. Pumpkin Spice Cake is very low maintenance, requiring only two bowls and minimal mixing, but the results suggest you slaved over it. For extra zing, replace the ground ginger with ¼ teaspoon grated fresh ginger. The spices taste wonderful against tart Cream Cheese Frosting, but try Maple Buttercream for a real treat.

This is also a model for using other puréed vegetables and fruits in cake, as the variations show.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour the bottom and sides of two 9-inch or three 8-inch cake pans. To make in a bundt pan, double the recipe.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices. In a separate large bowl, mix together the oil, eggs, sugars, pumpkin, buttermilk, and vanilla. Beat until smooth. Fold the flour mixture into the wet ingredients until just combined with no large lumps.

3. Pour the batter into the prepared pans and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean, 30 to 40 minutes, or about an hour for a bundt cake. Let cool for 10 minutes, then turn the cakes out of the pans onto a rack to finish cooling.

4. Frost or glaze if you like (see the suggestions on page 232). Store at room temperature, covered or wrapped well in plastic wrap, for no more than a few days, or wrap the unfrosted cake in plastic wrap and aluminum foil and store in the freezer for up to a few months.

PUMPKIN-GINGER CAKE For an extra-spicy cake: Increase the ground ginger to 1 teaspoon and decrease the cinnamon to ½ teaspoon. Fold ½ cup chopped candied ginger into the batter with the flour. If you like, frost the cake with Ginger Buttercream.

MAPLE-BUTTERNUT SPICE CAKE The perfect use for all that autumn squash: Substitute puréed butternut squash (see page 39) for the pumpkin. Substitute maple syrup for ¼ cup of the brown sugar. If you like, frost the cake with Maple Buttercream.

SWEET POTATO SPICE CAKE This cake is perfect with Cinnamon Buttercream: Substitute puréed sweet potatoes (see page 39) for the pumpkin purée.

PARSNIP-VANILLA CAKE Unusual, but it works: Substitute puréed parsnips (purée as you would sweet potatoes; see page 39) for the pumpkin. Omit the ginger and nutmeg and increase the vanilla to 1 tablespoon.

APPLESAUCE SPICE CAKE Substitute applesauce for the pumpkin. Increase the cinnamon to 2 teaspoons.

PRUNE POPPY SEED CAKE Based on the Austrian specialty, Mohnkuchen: Substitute puréed prunes for the pumpkin. Omit the spices and add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest to the dry ingredients. Fold ⅓ cup poppy seeds into the batter with the flour.

BANANA CAKE Like banana bread but way more impressive; this is excellent with Caramel Glaze or Butterscotch Sauce: Substitute mashed bananas for the pumpkin. Increase the cinnamon to 2 teaspoons and omit the nutmeg.

Making Cake for a Crowd

Cake is one of the most symbolic celebratory desserts, but there are a few things you need to know before you try to bake one for a big event. Engineering big cakes often requires equipment—large pans, specialized ovens, and dowels—the likes of which I prefer to leave to professionals. If you’re doing it yourself, here are some better options.

If you plan to double a recipe, make sure you do so precisely so that the ratios don’t change. I never double recipes.

NO-ASSEMBLY CAKES

Sheet cakes and Jelly-Roll Cakes are an easy way to boost a cake’s yield. Use any recipe you’d bake in round cake pans and be aware that sheet cakes tend to bake faster than layer cakes, so don’t wander too far from the oven.

LAYERED SHEET CAKES

Bake according to recipe directions, wrap tightly, and freeze if possible (frozen cakes are much easier to handle), then use a serrated knife to level both layers (this makes the top layer less likely to crack). Frost the bottom layer on your serving dish and invert the top layer, bottom side up, over it. Frost the top and sides too.

PETITS FOURS

Petits Fours are a clever option to stretch a cake recipe, and they have an unbeatable elegance that’s perfect for special occasions.

DENSE, MOIST CAKES

These keep their flavor and texture longer than those with an airier, more delicate crumb. Classic Pound Cake, Chocolate–Sour Cream Pound Cake, Olive Oil Cake, Black Forest Cake, Dense Flourless Chocolate Cake, and Chocolate-Hazelnut Torte are safe bets.

FREEZING CAKES

Most cakes—including the more delicate ones that get stale at room temperature—freeze beautifully, buying you up to several weeks to work ahead. See the notes on storing cakes.

CAKE SOAK

Use a cake soak to instantly breathe life back into staling cakes before you assemble and decorate them.

CHEESECAKE

Cheesecake is impressive, decadent, and keeps well in the fridge for several days; you can top with Fruit Compote or sliced fresh fruit to make it look professionally done. Make one of each to feed an army: Cheesecake, Ricotta Cheesecake, and Chocolate Cheesecake.

TRES LECHES, CARIBBEAN RUM CAKE, AND STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

They aren’t exactly elegant, but they’re naturally incredibly moist, making them great candidates to prepare in big sheet pans a few days before you’re hosting.

CUPCAKES

Make these in bulk using any butter cake recipe (see page 205) and freeze if need be. Wait to frost until just before serving. Arrange on tiered serving stands or stack in pyramids—messy but adorable.