The Basics of Yeast Bread
Yeast is a living thing, and it’s what gives each of the following recipes their unmatchable flavor, rise, and texture. Some loaves have nothing more than flour, yeast, salt, and water; those four ingredients alone spin off into so many things, from rustic French loaves (page 402) to flatbreads. But additions of butter, oil, eggs, and/or sugar—your basic baking heavy hitters—make for rich, lightly sweet versions that are as much of a treat as cakes or pies.
EQUIPMENT
Breads require very little in the way of equipment: all you need is a bowl, a wooden spoon, an oven, and something on which to bake the dough. (What you don’t want or need is a bread machine—see page 392.) That said, here are some items that can expand or improve on your world of homemade bread.
FOOD PROCESSOR
If you cook regularly, you want one anyway; after the refrigerator, and maybe the dishwasher, it’s the most useful kitchen appliance invented during the twentieth century. What it does for bread making is remarkable; it turns the process of making dough from a laborious chore (which has its benefits, especially if you’re a Zen type, but nevertheless discourages many people from even getting started) into a task that can take less than a minute of work. Literally. The hardest part is washing the work bowl afterward (use your dishwasher). While none of the recipes in this chapter absolutely require a food processor, many are written with it in mind.
BAKING STONE
It’s ideal for pizza, but it’s also a good thing to have if you’re remotely serious about baking bread—use it for any free-form loaf. You buy one, shove it into your oven on the lowest rack, and forget about it; it can stay there forever, and won’t detract from anything else you cook in there (the even heat it provides might even improve some things). Think of it as you do a stand mixer: Buying one won’t magically transform you into an expert baker, but if you plan to bake bread somewhat regularly, the payoff will quickly merit the investment. Plus, you can find pretty affordable ones or use an unglazed quarry tile, which is very cheap and sold at hardware stores. If you’re going to be baking a lot on the stone, invest in a pizza peel as well; it’s by far the easiest (and safest) way to slide dough into the hot oven.
INGREDIENTS
One of the many joys of baking bread is that you don’t need many ingredients, and all are inexpensive. The four most important components of nearly every yeasted bread are flour, yeast, water, and salt. There is also a multitude of optional add-ins that you may choose to use for flavor and variation.
I mentioned the difference between all-purpose and bread flour in the Introduction (see page 12), but it bears repeating here, since they’re used interchangeably in this chapter and you have a choice. All-purpose will always do the job; if that’s all you have, or if you make bread only occasionally and don’t want to waste pantry real estate on a special flour, you can use it to make a very good loaf.
But especially for rustic loaves, bread flour is ideal because it contains more protein (14 to 16 percent) than all-purpose (10 to 12 percent), which translates to greater gluten strength. As a result, it tends to produce elastic, easier-to-handle doughs and breads with a chewy crumb and sturdy crust. If you have bread flour on hand, use it, and consider buying it if you plan to bake bread habitually—it’s widely available, inexpensive, and easy to store in the freezer.
There are other flours too. A bit of rye or whole wheat flour adds flavor, variety, and some fiber; be aware that whole wheat flour has about as much protein as bread flour and absorbs more liquid than all-purpose, so don’t sub it for more than half of the total flour without expecting different results. For more details on all different types of flours and how to successfully combine them, see page 16.
Locally milled or so-called “artisanal” flours, made with specialized blends of wheat, are increasingly available; as with most other things, buying locally gives you more control over the quality and can be an opportunity to support small-scale farmers and producers. These will often be darker in color and have a more robust flavor that translates well to bread loaves. Feel free to experiment if that sounds like fun, but don’t agonize if it’s expensive or unavailable. Regular store-bought flour does the trick.
YEAST
Like the chemical leaveners (baking soda and baking powder) used in most quick doughs and batters, yeast lightens and lifts baked goods by producing carbon dioxide bubbles that are trapped by the dough’s structure and, in turn, make the dough rise. But it’s different in many ways, primarily because it’s actually alive. Yeasts are single-cell fungi that digest the simple sugars in the dough and produce carbon dioxide. This fermentation process happens outside of the oven, which is why you give bread dough time to rise.
You can buy yeast in various forms, including fresh, active dry, and instant. Instant—also called fast-acting, fast-rising, or rapid-rise—is the kind I use. It’s by far the most convenient: It’s a fine enough powder that you can add it directly to the dough at almost any point and it gives you a fast, reliable rise. It has ascorbic acid added (and sometimes traces of other ingredients too); this helps the dough stretch easily and increases loaf volumes.
Active dry yeast was used by most home bakers until instant yeast came along, and you may come across it in other recipes because some people are still in the habit of using it. It has bigger granules than instant yeast and must be rehydrated and dissolved (or “proofed”) in 110°F water (or other liquid) before you incorporate it into the flour. Below 105°F it will remain inert and may not even dissolve; above 115°F it will die.
It’s easy to substitute: Use 20 to 25 percent less instant yeast than active dry and add the liquid you would’ve used for proofing to the rest of the liquid. So for 1¼ teaspoons active dry yeast, you would use only 1 teaspoon instant, and if it’s proofed in ¼ cup warm water, increase the total water by an extra ¼ cup. On the other hand, if all you have is active dry yeast, use 20 to 25 percent more of it than the amount of instant.
Fresh yeast—also known as cake or compressed yeast—is usually sold in foil-wrapped cakes of about ⅔ ounce, although you probably won’t come across it unless you’re looking. It should be yellowish, soft, moist, and fresh smelling, with no dark or dried areas. It must be refrigerated (or frozen, if you prefer) since it has an expiration date and will die within 10 days of opening. As with active dry yeast, you must proof it in warm water before it’s added to a dough; when you do, it will foam and smell yeasty (if it doesn’t, it’s dead). Many bakers contend that fresh yeast tastes better than dry, but the difference, if any, is subtle. Fresh yeast is fun for experimenting, but for me instant yeast is the way to go.
And then there are sourdough starters and sponges, some of which begin with packaged yeast and others that use only wild yeasts. For more info, see page 408.
WATER
Of course water isn’t usually treated as an ingredient, and if you’re reading this, you probably have access to unlimited water from a tap. But it’s so important in bread making that it bears a quick word.
Many bread recipes specify a temperature range for the water; like us, yeast is happiest in warm water and doesn’t like to be scalded. (Water that’s too hot will actually kill it.) Active dry yeast is more finicky than instant, which is another reason I prefer the latter. To proof active dry yeast, your water should be around 110°F, which is warm enough to dissolve the granules but not so warm that it will hurt the yeast since they’re in direct contact. Instant yeast is mixed with flour before the water is added, so you can start with water straight from the tap; room temperature is fine.
Bear in mind that if you’re using a food processor, its blades will further warm the dough, so whichever yeast you’re using, the water you add to the flour mixture should be on the cooler side.
FATS AND FLAVORINGS
You might add olive oil, butter, eggs, or milk to some loaves to enrich the dough and add flavor and moisture. Fat inhibits gluten formation, so the bread will be softer and less chewy. Olive oil is particularly excellent in flatbreads, like Pita, Lavash, Fougasse, and of course Pizza (page 544), while butter, eggs, and/or milk give you favorites like Rich Golden Bread, Brioche, and Parker House Rolls.
For many, the most irresistible loaves are those with treats scattered throughout: raisins or figs, walnuts or pecans, olives, spices, cheese, whole grains. . .the possibilities are endless. And because you’re folding most of them into finished dough, you don’t have to worry about disrupting the chemistry or ratios of ingredients. See the lists and chart on pages 394–395 for plenty of jumping-off points.
Even the simplest home-baked bread is exquisite, but there are so many quick add-ins that let you customize flavor and add texture to virtually any basic recipe. The ideas here will get you started making specialty loaves on a par with those of the best bakeries—start with any one addition from the lists, below; or see the chart opposite for some knockout combinations.
5 Add-Ins for Breads
Add any of these to the flour and yeast (before the water) if you’re making a dough that doesn’t call for a starter; if you’re following a sourdough recipe, add them along with the last addition of flour and salt:
▪ Ground spices, like black pepper, cayenne, cumin, coriander, chili powder, or cinnamon, lightly toasted first in a dry pan if you like, or spice or herb blends like za’atar, garam masala, or herbes de Provence: 1 to 2 tablespoons, depending on their pungency
▪ Whole spice seeds, like fennel, caraway, or cumin, lightly toasted first in a dry pan if you like, up to 1 tablespoon
▪ Cooked or sprouted whole grains, up to ½ cup
▪ Finely ground coffee beans or tea leaves, up to ¼ cup
▪ Wheat germ, lightly toasted first in a dry pan if you like, up to ¼ cup
13 More Add-Ins for Breads
Knead any of these ingredients into the dough during the final shaping:
▪ Chopped nuts or seeds, toasted if you like (see page 57), up to 1 cup
▪ Chopped dried fruit (including dried tomatoes) or raisins, up to ¾ cup
▪ Chopped bean or seed sprouts, up to 1 cup
▪ Chopped pitted green or black olives, up to ½ cup
▪ Chopped or crumbled ham, bacon, sausage, pancetta, or prosciutto, up to ½ cup
▪ Grated hard cheese, like Parmesan, manchego, or ricotta salata, up to 1 cup
▪ Grated medium-hard cheese, like cheddar, Asiago, or pepper Jack, up to ½ cup
▪ Bits of soft cheese, like goat, blue cheese or Gorgonzola, or cream cheese, up to ½ cup
▪ Minced mild fresh herbs, like parsley, mint, cilantro, dill, or chives, up to ¼ cup, or strong herbs like rosemary, sage, or oregano, 1 to 2 tablespoons
▪ Minced fresh chile (like jalapeño or Thai) or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne to taste
▪ Drained cooked beans, lightly mashed, up to 1 cup
▪ Roasted garlic, lightly mashed or coarsely chopped, up to ½ cup
▪ Caramelized onions, up to ½ cup
These are as impressive and exquisite as what you’d find at the best bakeries. Try them with any rustic dough, like No-Knead Bread, Rustic French Bread, Rosemary Olive Oil Bread, Basic Sourdough, or Wild Yeast Peasant Bread, or a basic sandwich loaf such as White Sandwich Bread or 100-Percent Whole Wheat Bread.
BREAD: Fig-Walnut Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ½ cup chopped dried figs and ½ cup chopped walnuts
BREAD: Fennel-Raisin Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ¾ cup raisins and ¼ cup fennel seeds
BREAD: Cranberry–Pumpkin Seed Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ¾ cup pumpkin seeds and ¾ cup dried cranberries
BREAD: Currant-Oatmeal Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: ¾ cup rolled oats, in place of ¾ cup flour, and ½ cup cooked plain oatmeal
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ¾ cup dried currants
BREAD: Feta-Olive Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ½ cup chopped olives, preferably oily black olives, and ½ cup crumbled feta
BREAD: Extra-Cheesy Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ½ cup each shredded sharp cheddar and Gruyère; 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme if you like
BREAD: Southwestern-Style Breakfast Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1½ teaspoons ground chile and ½ teaspoon ground cumin
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ½ cup cooked bulk breakfast sausage and ½ cup shredded cheddar cheese
BREAD: Gorgonzola, Salami, and Caramelized Onion Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon black pepper
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ⅓ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, ⅓ cup sliced salami, and ⅓ cup caramelized onions
BREAD: Dried Tomato, Garlic, and Goat Cheese Bread
ADD TO DRY INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon black pepper
KNEAD INTO DOUGH: ½ cup chopped dried tomatoes, ½ cup crumbled goat cheese, ¼ cup roasted garlic, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano
Flour, water, yeast, and salt are all you need to make delicious bread. But that basic formula can be tweaked to expand your bread-making exponentially. Use wild yeast or commercial; replace white flour with whole grain; mix in seeds, nuts, fruits; add fats. Change the shape or oven temperature; knead the dough or don’t bother. The world of breads is infinite and surprisingly flexible, and the choice of what to make is yours.
YEAST BREADS
RICH BREADS: Milk, butter, oil, and/or eggs make a softer, richer dough.
- • Challah
- • Parker House Rolls
- • Potato Bread
- • Fougasse
- • Brioche
- • Rich Golden Bread
- • Ciabatta
- • Rosemary Olive Oil Bread
- • Prosciutto Bread
FLAT BREADS: The global favorites.
- • Naan
- • Lavash
- • Pita
- • Persian Flatbread
- • Grilled Lebanese Flatbread
- • Afghan Snowshoe Naan
- • Stuffed Pita
LEAN BREADS: The classics from Europe, with little to no fat.
- PACKAGED YEAST:
- • Onion Rye
- • Black Bread
- • White Sandwich Bread
- • Deli Rye
- • No-Knead Bread
- • Rustic French Bread
- • Pumpernickel
- • 100% Whole Wheat Bread
- WILD YEAST:
- • Basic Sourdough
- • Sourdough Rye
- • Wild Yeast Peasant Bread
BAGELS AND BEYOND: Individually portioned. Run the gamut from soft to crisp.
- • Bialys
- • Soft Pretzels
- • Bagels
- • Crumpets
- • David Chang’s Bao Buns
- • Breadsticks
SWEET BREADS: Fat and sugar add flavor and moisture.
- • Chocolate Babka
- • Panettone
- • Swedish Saffron Buns
- • Monkey Bread
- • Stollen
- • Cinnamon Rolls
- • Old-Fashioned Coffee Cake
