straight-stitch foot
The quality of the tools and equipment you use affects the final results. The top three essentials are: a sewing machine with an array of basic presser feet, a good iron, and an adjustable ironing board. Many sewers would also recommend a serger as essential. Good lighting and a comfortable cutting surface are also necessary. After these major expenses are covered, adding special tools for special functions as your budget allows will make your sewing experience more fun and enjoyable.
For starters, you need a sewing machine in good working order. If in doubt about what to buy, check with a respected sewing teacher or expert at your local fabric store for his or her recommendations.
Q: I learned on my grandmother’s machine, and I’m ready to buy my own. What should I look for in a sewing machine?
A: Today’s machines are not like your grandma’s or even your mother’s first machine. Built-in decorative and utilitarian stitches, an array of automatic buttonholes, automatic needle threaders and thread cutters, sensors that let you know when the bobbin thread is running low — these are just a few of the innovations that sewers now enjoy. Computers make it possible to program your own stitch patterns and save your favorite stitch settings on some machines. The list of features is endless, so it’s essential to shop carefully for your machine. Ask for hands-on demos, and test-drive the machines you are considering. Buy one with the features that you most need. Then learn how your new machine works; most dealers offer training classes with sewing-machine purchases to jump-start your experience.
A basic machine with a balanced straight stitch and a basic zigzag stitch is essential. Built-in utility stitches are also helpful.
A sewing machine is a major purchase. You may not replace it for many years — or you may decide to upgrade to a pricier model with more “bells and whistles” later. Before you shop, check out sewing publications and Consumer Reports. Ask other sewers about their machine experiences and opinions. If you’ve never sewn, read about how the sewing machine works and what the basic parts are before you go shopping so you can ask the right questions. (See pages 76–78.)
Q: Which presser feet do I need for my sewing machine?
A: Most machines come with a basic set of presser feet, those most used for basic sewing. These include the straight-stitch, zipper, all-purpose zigzag, and the blind-hem feet. Many include a clear or open-toe embroidery/appliqué foot, a special buttonhole foot, and another for sewing buttons on by machine (see page 388).
Each presser foot is designed for a specific purpose; the bottoms differ on many of them. The flat sole of the all-purpose foot rides smoothly over straight and utility zigzag stitches without thread buildup. It’s the most-used foot on zigzag machines because it’s wide enough to hold fabric securely against the feed dogs.
A straight-stitch foot has a small needle hole and a smooth sole. It’s best used with a straight-stitch needle plate and is appropriate only for straight stitching. For decorative zigzag stitches, use the special zigzag foot, which has a small channel on the bottom.
For satin stitching and other heavy embroidery stitch patterns, use the open-toe embroidery/appliqué foot (see next question). Its wide channel glides smoothly over embroidery-stitch buildup without snagging or flattening the stitches. A flat-bottomed foot will hang up on them, causing stitch problems. This foot enables you to see edges when satin-stitching over appliqué edges and doing other decorative machine stitching. The buttonhole foot has two parallel channels to accommodate the stitched “legs” of the buttonhole. A blind-hem foot has a special built-in guide that runs along the hem fold for accurate stitching (see pages 312–313).
straight-stitch foot
zigzag foot
open-toe foot
Q: Will I need any other presser feet for special techniques?
A: You can do most sewing with the basic presser feet. Specialty feet make easier work of many sewing techniques. Consider adding the following to your collection as your funds and projects warrant. Your dealer can show you how each foot works for the purpose intended — and often additional “Why didn’t I think of that?” uses. Ask about other specialty presser feet and how to use them.
A 1⁄4" patchwork foot (even if you don’t plan to make quilts) helps you stitch an accurate 1⁄4" seam allowance for home-decor projects as well as for some garment-sewing techniques. It’s my most-used presser foot.
A walking foot is essential for preventing fabric layers from shifting when stitching thick fabrics and multiple layers. It grips and feeds the top layer of fabric while stitching, just as the feed dogs do the bottom layer. The foot is designed to prevent the machine from pushing the top fabric layer forward, eliminating stretched and puckered seams and uneven layers at the end of a seam. A walking foot is especially useful on denim and corduroy, as well as heavy home-decor fabrics such as upholstery tapestries. It’s also essential for machine-quilting through layers of fabric and batting. Some machines have a built-in even-feed mechanism, making a walking foot unnecessary.
Note that the length and shape of the shank on presser feet varies from machine to machine — long, short, and slant-needle are the most common — so you must know the machine brand and model number before purchasing. Bernina feet have a unique clamp-on configuration and many machines now have a universal shank with snap-on presser feet.
1⁄4" patchwork foot
walking foot
open-toe foot
Q: Why and when would I use a straight-stitch foot and needle plate?
A: Choose them for beautiful straight stitching without puckering on lightweight fabrics. The needle plate has a small, round hole; using it with the narrower straight-stitch foot usually improves the stitch quality and tension. It also helps prevent skipped stitches, because there is no extra room for the needle to push the fabric layers into the hole (called “flagging”) like there is in a zigzag plate. It is often used with a spring-loaded embroidery foot for decorative free-motion stitching and quilting; because you move the fabric in many different directions when free-motion stitching, stitch tension can be problematic.
straight-stitch throat plate
zigzag-stitch throat plate
Q: Are there general care guidelines for all sewing machines?
A: Just like an automobile, your machine needs servicing to keep it in top running order and to eliminate frequent trips to the dealership. The more you sew, the more often your machine will require servicing. For general maintenance:
Q: Is it okay to use magnetic pin dishes near my computerized sewing machine?
A: Check your manual or ask your machine dealer. Some machines may be affected, while others are not.
Some machines require periodic oiling and others don’t; read your manual for directions. However, here are some general pointers:
In addition to periodic oiling, follow a regular maintenance schedule. For optimal machine function, do the following tasks to clean out lint and other contaminants after each major project or every 8 to 10 hours of sewing.
Try these basic maintenance steps when you encounter stitching problems. If trouble persists, see your dealer. Service may take a few days, longer when parts are needed. Find out what was wrong and what was done to fix it.
Q: I bought my machine secondhand and have no manual. What do I do?
A: Visit your local dealer for help. You may be able to locate manuals online in downloadable PDF files. See Resources for website addresses.
Q: Can I use generic parts and attachments on my machine?
A: It’s best to use replacement parts made specifically for your machine model. Generic parts may invalidate your warranty. Generic presser feet for special sewing applications (sewing on bead strings, for example) are fun to add to your sewing-machine toolbox. Purchase the one that has a shank like the one on your machine.
You can sew just about anything without a serger, but many sewers would find it difficult to part with theirs. Sergers can do many basic sewing functions and are wonderful for sewing knits, but if you must choose between machines, invest in a sewing machine first. Once you’ve stitched a seam with a serger, there’s no room for fitting errors. The cutting blade that operates during stitching cuts away excess seam allowance.
Q: How is a serger different from a sewing machine?
A: A serger is most commonly used for seams in knits and for seam finishing, as well as for finishing a hem with a neat rolled edge on garments and home-decor items. At its most basic, a serger will make a seam while trimming and overcasting the edge — all in one step. This speeds up the sewing and finishing process. A serger cannot backstitch, make buttonholes, embroider, or do traditional topstitching and zipper applications. Like traditional sewing machines, sergers also have special presser feet for special techniques. See Resources for books that cover special serger techniques.
The most basic serger has one or two needles and two loopers, each one requiring its own thread. As the serger runs, a sharp blade moves up and down, making a neatly cut edge on the fabric layer(s), while the upper and lower loopers “knit” their threads over the freshly cut edge. The looper threads are caught into a line of stitches made by the needle thread. The entire process creates a truly ravel-free seam finish. Today, there are sergers with as many as ten threads for special techniques.
Q: Three or more threads? Doesn’t that create a threading and tension nightmare?
A: Threading a serger can be intimidating at first, but once you learn how and start using your serger for seam and edge finishing, you’ll wonder how you managed without it. After some hands-on threading experience at the dealer, take it home and thread, unthread, and rethread several times until the process is second nature. Keep your manual handy for threading and tension adjustments to create the traditional overlock stitch, as well as the rolled-edge and other seam and edge finishes. Take a beginning class at your dealership. Watch for classes at your local fabric store or community college.
SEE ALSO: Chapter 7, Seams and Seam Finishes, and chapter 8, Hems and Hem-Edge Finishes.
Buy the very best cutting tools you can afford; they will last a lifetime if you take good care of them. To ensure clean cuts for accurate sewing, every sewer needs a dressmaker’s shears, a few pairs of sewing scissors for different cutting tasks, and rotary-cutting equipment.
Q: What kind of scissors should I buy? Do I really need a rotary cutter?
A: Dressmaker’s shears are essential for cutting out the pieces for any project. These 8" to 10" shears have two long, sharp blades with looped handles to fit your fingers and thumb. The long blades make it easy to make long, smooth cuts. The bent handle allows the bottom blade to glide smoothly along the cutting surface below the fabric; otherwise, you must lift the fabric and pattern from the cutting surface, resulting in inaccurate cuts with choppy edges. Bent-handled shears are also available with microser-rated blades for cutting thin, slippery, and slick-surfaced fabrics. If the shears you are considering don’t slice easily through four layers of medium-weight fabric, look for a different pair.
dressmaker’s shears
Sewing or embroidery scissors are needed for cutting threads and trimming fabric edges. For all-purpose cutting, invest in 5"- or 6"-long sewing scissors (also called trimmers or tailor’s scissors) with a pointed blade and a blunt blade. Embroidery scissors have two fine, sharp points for clipping threads and for cutting single layers or delicate fabrics. They are smaller, usually 31⁄2" to 5" long.
embroidery scissors
A rotary cutter, mat, and ruler make cutting bias strips and rectangular shapes, such as pockets and waistbands, a breeze. You may also use them for other cutting tasks.
rotary cutter
rotary cutter with ergonomic handle
A seam ripper is essential for “unstitching” mistakes.
Q: Do I need pinking shears?
A: These special bent-handle shears (also called “pinkers”) make zigzag cuts for finishing seam and hem edges, making those edges less prone to raveling. You can also use pinkers to trim and clip enclosed seams (see pages 282–286), or for making a decorative edge on firmly woven, nonwoven, or knit fabrics. Similar blades are also available for rotary cutters, along with blades for cutting other fancy decorative edges. To check for quality, make a test cut from the second tooth out to the tip along the edge on scraps of a lightweight and a heavyweight fabric. If the cutting is difficult or uneven, consider a different brand. Look for a deep, rather than shallow, sawtooth cut for the most ravel-resistant finish. This is a major purchase that can wait if you have budget restrictions.
Q: Are there any guidelines for caring for my sewing scissors and shears?
A: Keep your cutting tools out of the hands of nonsewers. Find a secure hiding place or mark them in a way that means “for sewing only.” For example, tie a pink ribbon to the handle of each pair to indicate “hands off.” Other care guidelines include:
Q: Can I use a rotary cutter in place of dressmaker’s shears for cutting?
A: Yes, if you feel comfortable using this sharp, pizza-cutter-like tool (see pages 164–165). Rotary cutting results in smooth and straight edges for cutting and sewing accuracy. The 45 mm-diameter cutter is the most popular, but smaller and larger sizes are available. You will need a large rotary cutting mat to protect your cutting surface and a 6" × 24" clear acrylic rotary ruler to guide cutting along straight pattern edges.
For cutting along curved edges, choose a small rotary cutter (18 mm). You’ll need a very steady hand to cut without a guide, or try using a French curve ruler as a cutting guide. It may be easier to cut curved areas with shears.
Rotary cutting equipment is great for cutting home-decor project pieces, since they are usually large geometric shapes, but this works only if you have a large cutting mat and table. Moving fabric layers can cause slippage and distortion.
Rotary cutters are razor-sharp! Stay alert and follow basic precautions when using one:
Q: How should I care for my rotary cutter for optimum use and accurate cuts?
A: Using a dull blade can irreparably damage your cutting mat. Also, using too much pressure to force a cut results in inaccuracy. At the first sign of poor cutting action (cuts require more pressure than usual or the blade skips and misses periodically), don’t assume the blade is worn. Before you throw it out, try cleaning it:
If, after cleaning, your rotary cutter still won’t cut right, replace the blade and discard the used one, wrapped and taped in cardboard (even when too dull for cutting fabric, it’s still sharp enough to cut fingers).
It’s easy to assemble a kit of essentials for a modest investment, then add to it as your budget allows and your projects demand more specialized tools.
Q: Besides good cutting tools, what else do I need in my sewing kit?
A: Pins, needles, and a thimble are the most basic tools, along with a seam gauge for measuring tasks. See chapter 2 for information on needles. Select a thimble that fits your index finger, to protect it while pushing stitches through fabric.
Use straight pins to hold fabric layers together for hand sewing and machine stitching:
You’ll need a pincushion or a magnetic pin dish. Some pincushions fit the wrist; some have an emery cushion attached for cleaning and sharpening pins and needles. The magnetic dish catches pins and is great for sweeping up strays.
A 6" seam gauge is a ruler with a sliding marker. Use it to measure and mark hems, for button and buttonhole placement, or for other design details, such as pleats and tucks. You’ll also need a tape measure, a flexible measuring tape made of fiberglass, to take body measurements, as well as for pattern placement on the fabric grainline (see page 160).
Q: Are there other tools that I need for hand- and/or machine-sewing?
A: There are numerous sewing tools that make sewing more fun, faster, and easier. I’ve tried most of them, but the ones I wouldn’t be without are listed below. I can sew without any of them, but I wouldn’t want to! I refer to them in many techniques throughout this book.
SEE ALSO: Marking Tools and Methods
Arrange your sewing room for a pleasurable sewing experience to avoid eye strain, fatigue, and neck, back, and shoulder pain. Repetitive stress injuries are not uncommon among those who sew regularly in less-than-ideal sewing setups. Good lighting is an important consideration, along with a comfortable place to cut and mark your sewing projects.
Q: Where do I begin?
A: It’s ideal to have a separate space devoted to your hobby, but no matter where you sew, setting up the machine, sewing chair, and cutting/ironing space for optimum comfort is essential. Choose a comfortable, adjustable chair, preferably with wheels. Arrange a cutting area at a height that eliminates backbreaking bending. Making do — by cutting on the floor, bending over the kitchen table, or sewing at a table that is too high or too low — can cause great discomfort.
Q: What do you recommend for lighting my sewing?
A: You’ll need good light at your sewing machine, pressing area, and cutting table. Ask for color-corrected bulbs to reduce shadows and keep your color selections in perspective. Decorative and utilitarian sewing lamps, in floor and table models, are widely available and are a must for sewing at night and when working with dark colors. Small portable models are a good choice for illuminating your work at your machine and at your easy chair while hand sewing. Bulbs that emit natural, white, or outdoor light are best.
Q: When I use the kitchen table for layout and cutting, my back hurts. Is there an alternative?
A: To avoid back strain, a counter-height worktable — about 34" from the floor unless you are really short or really tall — is essential for cutting. Try to arrange your cutting surface so you can walk around it, rather than bend over it to reach the other edge, when pinning, marking, and cutting. (Reaching too far also affects accuracy.) The larger the surface, the better. I recommend a surface at least 30" wide (the width of 60" fabric folded in half) and 45" long (an average length for pant legs).
Q: My shoulders and neck get so tired when I sew. Any other hints for a more comfortable experience?
A: Take frequent breaks, especially if you are sewing under a deadline. Tilt up the back of the machine a bit so you can better see what you’re doing with less neck strain. Purchase a special tabletop apparatus for this or use two rubber doorstops to lift the back of the machine. Or, tuck the thin end of an empty 3-ring 3"-thick notebook binder under the back of the machine and slide it in far enough to tilt the machine. Here are a few other tips to alleviate neck, back, and leg strain:
Q: Are ergonomic sewing tools available?
A: Yes, more and more manufacturers offer these, and they are a good investment in your health. Consider:
“Press as you sew” is one of the most important sewing rules. For a professional finish, you will need quality pressing equipment and a few additional pressing tools. Add to your collection as projects require and your budget allows. A good ironing board and a sturdy steam iron, plus a pressing ham, seam roll, and point presser will make pressing easy and enjoyable. More information on these items to come in this chapter.
Q: What should I look for in an ironing board?
A: Height-adjustable, freestanding ironing boards are the most popular. They can be left up, or folded and stored, depending on your space. Locate yours close to your sewing machine, if possible. If it’s not close by, keep a small pressing pad on or near the sewing-machine table to eliminate frequent trips to the ironing board. I keep a small craft iron handy for quick pressing jobs that don’t require the entire board. The ironing board should have:
Q: Can I use a Teflon-coated ironing board cover instead of cotton?
A: This popular cover, found on many ironing boards, is not recommended for construction sewing. The Teflon reflects heat back into the fabric, which in turn can cause unwanted shine and make fusing difficult. It also interferes with setting the press in synthetics, which must cool to “remember” the pressed shape (see page 41).
Q: I need a new iron. Which features are essential for sewing?
A: You will need a steam iron with a shot-of-steam option. Use it to direct heavier bursts of steam into your work, for shaping and reshaping the fabric. Even if you don’t use steam when pressing, you still need it to remove wrinkles prior to layout and cutting, and for preshrinking nonwashable fabrics (see page 190). A heavier iron is preferable for sewing, as the weight makes pressing easier. Be sure your iron has a wide temperature range so you can adjust it in increments for the fiber content of your project. Helpful features include:
Q: Is pressing the same as ironing?
A: Ironing involves moving the iron continuously back and forth with downward pressure over fabric to remove wrinkles and creases. You may need to iron your fabric to prepare it for cutting.
Pressing is a more delicate maneuver, used to persuade a seam allowance to lie in a specific direction, or to flatten a finished edge, create a crease or pleat, or train fabric into a new shape. It’s an up-and-down motion using the tip or the side of the iron to coax the seams and edges into submission, while taking care not to stretch or distort the shapes.
Begin with a pressing ham and an assortment of press cloths. Add other tools — a seam roll, and a point presser/tailor’s clapper combination — as your budget allows, your skills increase, and the projects you tackle grow in complexity.
Clockwise: pressing ham, seam roll, separate clapper, and point presser/clapper combo.
Q: What is a seam roll and how do I use it?
A: Like the pressing ham, this long, tubular pressing aid is firmly stuffed and covered with wool on one half and heavy cotton on the other. It’s rounded at each end and is especially helpful when pressing seams open. Because of its shape, the garment falls away from the seam edges, helping to prevent seam imprints on the right side of your work. It’s essential when pressing inside tubular areas such as sleeves and pant legs. You may have a sleeve board, also useful for this purpose; however, pressing a seam open over a sleeve board offers no protection from seam imprinting.
press seam open over seam roll
Q: What is the correct procedure for pressing a seam?
A: Any seam that will be crossed with another must be pressed first. Even when seam allowances will be pressed to one side or hide inside collars and cuffs, it’s usually best to press the seam open first. Exceptions include the seams for setin sleeves and the curved facing seams around necklines and armholes.
press to set the stitches
press open
SEE ALSO: Chapter 7, Seams and Seam Finishes.
Q: How do I prevent seam imprints if I don’t have a seam roll?
A: Substitute a firmly rolled-up terry cloth towel, a rolled-up magazine covered with muslin, or a folded piece of typing paper or a strip of a brown paper bag (with no printing ink) lengthwise. Tuck the folded edge between the seam allowance and the project. You can use adding-machine paper tape or white envelopes, too. Having a seam roll makes it much easier to press seams open inside tubular areas.
Q: How do I press seams open that end in points, as in a collar or cuff?
A: Enclosed seams like those in a collar are always easier to manipulate into place at the turned edge if you press them open on a point presser. Slip the fabric point over the wooden point of the point presser. This tool is usually attached to a block of wood on the bottom, which is used as clapper or pounding block when pressing seams.
press enclosed seams open over point presser
Q: Why would I need to pound a seam?
A: You won’t usually need to pound a seam. Instead, you can use the wooden clapper with firm pressure to help set the steam into the fabric, then cool it in place for a firm press. (See Using the Clapper, below.) Using a clapper with pressure after using the iron allows you to press longer without damaging the fabric. Enclosed edges on collars and faced edges benefit from this pressing method (see page 282).
To use a clapper, first fill the area with steam and heat from the iron. Then replace it with the clapper and hold in place for several seconds to set the press. It’s also great for setting the creases in pants legs.
A clapper is also essential for setting seams, creases, and sharp-edged pleats, particularly when working with stubborn synthetic fibers such as polyester, a thermoplastic fiber. You can reshape it while it’s warm and set the shape as it cools. Placing the cool block of wood on the warm, pressed polyester and exerting pressure helps it cool faster and “remember” its new pressed shape.
Use a tailor’s clapper to “pound” fabric by applying it like a hammer to flatten really bulky areas where seams intersect, or in hemlines. Pounding flat-felled or welt seams in denim or similar heavy fabrics helps flatten layers in a narrow hem allowance, like the ones in blue jeans. Beware: A too-heavy hand with the clapper will break down fibers and weaken the fabric — and may produce unwanted shine.
Q: What is a pressing (tailor’s) ham and how do I use it?
A: This firmly stuffed item is a little smaller than a football and shaped a bit like a ham (see page 37). Its contoured and curved edges assist you when pressing similarly shaped areas in your sewing projects. Darts and shaped seams are stitched to create contours, to make flat fabric fit your body shape. If you press them flat, you will end up with poor fit and appearance. One side of the ham is covered in heavy cotton, the other in wool. Choose the side most like your fabric.
To press a dart, first press it flat — to set the stitches, help them meld into the fabric, and crease the folded edge. Then arrange the fabric over the ham on the curved area that the dart hugs most smoothly. Tuck a strip of clean white paper under the dart and press the dart from wide end to narrow, ending at the point. Use the ham when pressing open curved seams that fit over your hipline. It is also handy when shaping the gathered cap of a set-in sleeve (see page 364).
press stitches to set and to crease fold
press dart to one side over pressing ham
SEE ALSO: Darts
Q: Are there any other special pressing techniques I should know?
A: Here are some pressing tips for specific pressing situations and special fabrics:
SEE ALSO: Chapter 9, Shaping to Fit.
Q: Are there any other pressing tools I should consider?
A: It’s nice to have a sleeve board: a narrow, mini ironing board, for pressing small tubular areas like sleeves. It’s also handy for small areas like cuffs and necklines, and on craft projects and clothes for dolls and little ones. A padded pressing mitt is handy for steam-pressing a set-in sleeve.
If you plan to sew on napped or pile fabrics, such as velvet and velveteen, you might want a needle board made of stiffened fabric and embedded with point-up steel needles. The napped surface sinks into the needles to protect it from the pressure of the iron when pressing from the wrong side. A terrycloth towel or a piece of napped fabric on your ironing board can substitute.
Q: What should I use for a press cloth?
A: Using a press cloth between the iron and fabric protects the fabric from excessive heat and shine. You also need a press cloth for applying most fusible interfacings, to protect your iron from picking up and transferring sticky fusible residue to your fabric, iron, and ironing board. Purchase press cloths or use fabrics that you already have. Here are a few options:
Q: How do I remove starch residue and other buildup from the iron soleplate?
A: I keep a supply of hot-iron cleaner on hand to clean the soleplate (see page 29). Another option is to make a thick paste with two tablespoons of baking soda and a bit of water to rub on the soleplate to loosen and wipe away the gunk. Wipe again with a clean, wet sponge or cloth.
Q: How do I remove a scorch mark on my fabric?
A: Scorching on natural fibers (silk, cotton, linen, wool) and man-made rayon, due to pressing too long or using a too hot iron, leaves a brownish-yellow discoloration. Doing the same on heat-sensitive synthetics causes shine on the surface or melts the fibers, which harden as they cool. You may be able to remove light scorch marks with one of the following methods. Note: It’s not possible to refresh fabrics that have shiny or melted areas from using high heat on heat-sensitive man-made fibers.
One of the best things you can do to keep sewing information organized is to create a sewing notebook. A three-ring binder is ideal, because you can add and remove materials easily. Use one with a 2" or 3" spine for room to grow. It can fill up quickly. Use tabbed dividers to organize topics, and add a supply of clear plastic sheet protectors for a place to tuck odds and ends.
Here are a few of the things you will want to keep in the notebook:
Your sewing notebook will be an invaluable long-term reference and it can serve as a journal that captures a lifetime of sewing.