The Best of Washington, D.C.
The sun has come up, dappling the surface of the Potomac. It warms the front plaza of the Supreme Court Building, where visitors stand in line awaiting their chance to attend an oral argument. Sunlight splays across the National Mall and pours through the south-facing windows of the Oval Office, where the President works away at the problems of the day. Commuters of all sorts, from diplomats to nonprofit wonks to corporate execs to shopkeepers, spill from cars and buses and Metro stations onto sunlit downtown streets armed with briefcases, coffee cups, smartphones, and newspapers. They rub elbows from sunup to sundown, in the halls of Congress, in Penn Quarter restaurants, in Georgetown shops, in bars along 14th Street. The city bustles. Bustle with it. It’s a beautiful day.
Each day dawns anew in this “city of magnificent intentions,” as Charles Dickens once called it. Maybe this will be the day that Republican and Democrat legislators hammer out a deal on a campaign finance reform bill or that President Obama welcomes world leaders to the White House for a Middle East summit. Or maybe today’s the day that you fulfill your own intentions, sublime or otherwise, of setting eyes on the original Declaration of Independence, perhaps, or tasting something called a “half-smoke,” or listening to a jazz concert in the same place where Duke Ellington once performed. Things happen here that can happen nowhere else on earth. You’re in America’s capital, and this city and this day belong to you. Best get crackin’!
The most unforgettable Washington, D.C. Experiences
Watching the Supreme Court in Action: Behind the stately marble facade of the Supreme Court Building, the nation’s nine black-gowned justices reveal their intellectual brilliance and individual personalities as they listen to and question both sides of an argument. Will the famously silent Justice Thomas talk today? Is the notably aggressive Justice Scalia really so blunt? Only one way to find out: Wait in line for entry and a coveted seat inside the Courtroom. See p. 95.
Viewing Washington Landmarks by Moonlight: There is nothing as spectacular as the Lincoln Memorial illuminated at night, unless it’s the sight of the White House, the Capitol, or the Washington Monument lit up after dark. Go by Old Town Trolley, by bike via a Bike and Roll excursion, or by boat aboard a Potomac Riverboat Co. cruise; all three operations offer narrated day- and nighttime tours. See p. 233.
Visiting Your Senator or House Representative: If you’re a U.S. citizen, take advantage of your constituent status and stop by your senator’s and/or representative’s office on Capitol Hill to offer your two cents on current issues. Pick up passes to the Capitol’s Senate and House chambers and attend a session to observe your elected politicians at work. Make sure you’ve reserved Capitol tour passes online and tour the Capitol. See p. 85.
Bicycling Past the Potomac River and Around the Tidal Basin: Rent a bike and cycle the paved bike/pedestrian path that extends 11 miles from the Lincoln Memorial to the Maryland border (through Rock Creek Park). Or head the other direction, following the combination of street, sidewalk, and pathway that encircles the Tidal Basin. You’ll enjoy a view of the Potomac River, Rock Creek, and spectacular Washington sites on either side of you as you make your way. For a really epic ride, follow the pathway past the Lincoln Memorial, cross the Arlington Memorial Bridge to the trail on the other side, and pedal the 19 miles to Mount Vernon. See p. 154 and 183.
Participating in a Protest: What causes do you believe in? I mean this sincerely. Find out if there’s a gathering on the National Mall, a protest at an embassy, or some other public event that reflects your point of view, and join in! This is the capital of the United States, the world’s most successful democracy, imperfect though it may be. Countless such protests take place here annually. It can be thrilling and inspiring, or really, just plain fun, to meet up with other citizens of the world and make your presence known.
The best Family Experiences
Hanging Out at the National Zoo: Make faces at the cute giant pandas; listen to the mighty lion’s roar; laugh at the playful monkeys; watch an elephant exercise; ride the new, solar-powered carousel. The National Zoo is essentially one big (163 acres!), family-friendly park, offering the chance to observe some 2,000 animals at play (or snoozing or eating). See p. 142.
Ice Skating at the National Gallery: The pool in the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden turns into an ice-skating rink in winter. Rent some skates and twirl around on the ice, admiring sculptures as you go. Treat yourself to hot chocolate and sandwiches at the Pavilion Café in the garden. See p. 155.
Paddling Your Way Around the Tidal Basin: Rent a paddleboat for four people and skim the surface of the Tidal Basin for an hour. You’ll still be sightseeing as you pedal away, in full view of the Washington Monument on the Mall, the Jefferson and Martin Luther King, Jr. memorials bordering the Basin, and, should you be here during cherry blossom season, the blooming cherry trees encircling the Tidal Basin. See chapter 154.
Riding a Roller Coaster or Piloting a Jet: Two Smithsonian museums offer amusement-park-like rides in their simulator machines. At the National Air and Space Museum, these machines allow children to experience the feeling of being airborne in a jet or in the pilot’s seat of a World War II fighter airplane. At the National Museum of American History, your simulated adventures feel real in racecar and roller coaster machines. Note: Height requirements and fees apply. See p. 105 and 110.
The best Food
Best for a Splurge: I’ve got two suggestions for you, as different as night and day. Dupont Circle’s Komi (p. 77) is a sparely appointed town-house dining room with just 12 tables. The young genius chef, Johnny Monis, sends out 15 or so little gastronomic masterpieces that often hint of Greek tastes, like the mascarpone-stuffed dates; the cost is $135 per person. Georgetown’s waterfront Fiola Mare (p. 80) is as splashy as Komi is serene, and offers a stunning view of the Potomac. Like its sister Fiola in the Penn Quarter, its fare is sophisticated Italian, the decor and clientele head-turning.
Best for Romance: If a trendy, sexy scene and exotic tastes appeal, consider the Penn Quarter’s softly lit Rasika (p. 72), whose hot Indian food spices up the night.
Best for Families: Beyond the usual burger (Five Guys, p. 73) and pizza (Pizzeria Paradiso, p. 78) why not introduce your kids to international cuisine at the Lebanese Taverna (see p. 84)?
Best for Regional Cuisine: Johnny’s Half Shell (p. 63) is the place to go for superb Eastern Shore delicacies: crab cakes, crab imperial, and soft-shell crab. While Washington doesn’t have its own cuisine per se, its central location within the Mid-Atlantic/Chesapeake Bay region gives it license to lay claim to these local favorite foods. And nobody does ’em better than Johnny’s.
Best All-Around for Fun and Food: Unstoppable José Andrés is behind the always-crowded Oyamel (p. 71), where everyone’s slurping foam-topped margaritas and savoring small plates of authentic Mexican food. A few blocks away, Central Michel Richard (p. 68) makes everybody happy with its convivial atmosphere and chef Richard’s take on French bistro and American classics, from mussels in white wine to fried chicken.
Best for a “Taste of Washington” Experience: Eat lunch at the Monocle (p. 66) and you’re bound to see a Supreme Court justice, congressman, or senator dining here, too. For some down-home fare, sit at the counter at Ben’s Chili Bowl (p. 75), and chat with the owners and your neighbor over a chili dog or a plate of blueberry pancakes. The place is an institution, and you can stop by anytime—it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Best for Vegetarians: Amsterdam Falafelshop (p. 76) draws lovers of its mashed chickpea falafels and 21 possible toppings, plus the twice-cooked Dutch-style fried potatoes; Zaytinya (p. 72) offers a most diverse selection of sweet and savory veggie tapas, including a Brussels sprouts dish that vegetarians and carnivores alike go crazy for. FYI: Oyamel, another José Andrés restaurant, is also recommended for all-around food and fun; bring a crowd to share the mezze.
The best Things to Do for Free in Washington, D.C.
Peruse the Constitution: Only in Washington and only at the National Archives will you be able to read the original documents that grounded this nation in liberty. Here you’ll find the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution of the United States, and the Bill of Rights—all on display behind glass. See p. 106.
People-Watch at Dupont Circle: This traffic circle is also a park—an all-weather hangout for mondo-bizarre biker-couriers, chess players, street musicians, and lovers. Sit on a bench and watch scenes of Washington life unfold around you. See p. 212.
Attend a Millennium Stage Performance at the Kennedy Center: Every evening at 6pm, the Kennedy Center presents a free 1-hour concert performed by local, up-and-coming, national, or international musicians. After the performance, head through the glass doors to the terrace for a view of the Potomac River. See p. 171.
Groove to the Sounds of Live Jazz in the Sculpture Garden: On summery Friday evenings at the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden, you can dip your toes in the fountain pool and chill out to live jazz from 5 to 8pm. The jazz is free; the tapas, wine, and beer served in the Pavilion Café are not. See p. 109.
Pick a Museum, (Just About) Any Museum: Because this is the U.S. capital, many of the museums are federal institutions, meaning admission is free. The National Gallery of Art, the U.S. Botanic Garden, and the Smithsonian’s 17 Washington museums, from the National Air and Space Museum to the Freer Gallery, are among many excellent choices. See chapter 6.
Attend an Event on the Mall: Think of the National Mall as the nation’s public square, where something is always going on. There’s the Kite Festival during Cherry Blossom season in the spring; the splendid Independence Day celebration every Fourth of July; and walking tours, biking, Frisbee throwing, and assorted impromptu sports happening year-round. See p. 17 for a calendar of annual events.
The best Neighborhoods for Getting Lost
Georgetown: The truth is, you want to get lost in Georgetown, because it’s the neighborhood’s side streets that hold the history and centuries-old houses of this one-time Colonial tobacco port. And not to worry—Georgetown is so compact that you’re never very far from its main thoroughfares, M Street and Wisconsin Avenue. For a back-streets tour of Georgetown, see p. 204.
Old Town Alexandria: Just a short distance from the District (by Metro, car, boat, or bike) is George Washington’s Virginia hometown. On and off the beaten track are quaint cobblestone streets, charming boutiques and antiques stores, 18th-century houses and other historic attractions, and fine restaurants. See p. 185.
Dupont Circle: Explore Dupont Circle’s lovely side streets extending off Connecticut and Massachusetts avenues. You’ll discover picturesque 19th-century town houses serving as homes to small art galleries, historic museums, and actual residences. Stroll Embassy Row (northward on Massachusetts Ave.) to view Beaux Arts mansions, many built by wealthy magnates during the Gilded Age. See p. 211.
Foggy Bottom: Take the White House walking tour (p. 198) if you like, then continue westward to mingle with George Washington University’s students on its urban campus and with international employees of the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund, both headquartered here. Old Foggy Bottom holds 19th-century town houses; historic sites, like the building at 2017 I St. NW, where James Monroe briefly lived; and old churches, like St. Mary’s Episcopal, at 728 23rd St. NW, designed by James Renwick (see the Renwick Gallery, p. 124).
The best Ways to See Washington, D.C. Like a Local
Shop at Eastern Market: Capitol Hill is home to more than government buildings; it’s a community of old town houses, antiques shops, and the venerable Eastern Market. Here locals shop and barter every Saturday and Sunday for fresh produce, baked goods, and flea-market bargains as they’ve done for well over a century. A must: the blueberry pancakes at the Market Lunch counter. See p. 90.
Pub and Club It in D.C.’s Hot Spots: Join Washington’s footloose and fancy-free any night of the week (but especially Thurs–Sat) along 14th Street, in Adams Morgan, and in the Penn Quarter.
Go for a Jog on the National Mall: Lace up your running shoes and race down the Mall at your own pace, admiring famous sites as you go. Your fellow runners will be buff military staff from the Pentagon, speed-walking members of Congress, and downtown workers doing their best to stave off the telltale pencil pusher’s paunch. It’s about 2 miles from the foot of the Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial. See p. 109.
Attend a Hometown Game: Take yourself out to a Washington Nationals baseball game at Nationals Ballpark, drive to FedEx Field to root for the Washington Redskins, catch a Washington Wizards or Mystics basketball game at the downtown Verizon Center, or hop the Metro to RFK Stadium for a D.C. United soccer match. To experience the true soul of the city, attend a Washington Capitals ice hockey match at the Verizon Center. Wear red. See p. 181.
Sit at an Outdoor Cafe and Watch the Washington World Go By: Locals watching locals. What better way to keep tabs on each other? The capital is full of seats offering front-row views of D.C. on parade. Here’s a bunch: Johnny’s Half Shell (p. 63), Le Bon Café (p. 68), Montmartre (p. 66), Paul (p. 79), Central (p. 68), Zaytinya (p. 72), Cork (p. 74), and Martin’s Tavern (p. 83).
The best Places to Stay
Best Historic Hotel: The Willard InterContinental celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2006 as the “new” 12-story Willard, replacing the original, smaller “City Hotel” that existed here between 1816 and 1906. Whether known as the City or the Willard, the hotel has hosted nearly every U.S. president since Franklin Pierce in 1853. President Ulysses S. Grant liked to unwind with cigar and brandy in the Willard lobby after a hard day in the Oval Office; literary luminaries such as Mark Twain and Charles Dickens used to hang out in the Round Robin bar. See p. 47.
Best for Romance: Its discreet service, intimate size, exquisitely decorated guest rooms, and the fact that you need never leave the hotel for pampering or dining makes The Jefferson (p. 52) perfect for romantic rendezvous. Its bar, Quill, has pull-the-curtain niches, perfect for private canoodling. A Spa Suite combines a guest bedroom and adjoining spa treatment room. There’s fine dining in restaurant Plume and cozy spots for reading in the Book Room, where a fire crackles in the hearth.
Best When You Have Business on Capitol Hill: The George, a Kimpton Hotel (p. 41), lies a short walk from the Capitol and offers free Wi-Fi and an excellent in-house power-dining spot, Bistro Bis, among other business-friendly amenities.
Best Bang for Your Buck: Its great Georgetown location, spacious studio and one-bedroom suites with kitchens, free Wi-Fi, and reasonable rates recommend Georgetown Suites (p. 58) as one of the best values in town.
Best Views: The Hay-Adams (p. 49) has such a great, unobstructed view of the White House that the Secret Service comes over regularly to do security sweeps of the place. Ask for a room on the H Street side of the hotel, on floors six through eight.
Best for Families: The Omni Shoreham Hotel (p. 60) is adjacent to Rock Creek Park, within walking distance of the National Zoo and Metro, and has a large outdoor pool and kiddie pool. Nearby kid-friendly eateries include fast-food choices like McDonald’s and local favorites like Lebanese Taverna (p. 84). Children receive a backpack upon check-in, and the concierge can provide board games and books (at no charge; just remember to return them). Parents appreciate receiving the first aid/safety kit with outlet covers, nightlights, and a list of emergency numbers.
The best Off-Beat Experiences
Listen to “How to Succeed in Congress without Really Lying” and “Help Me Fake It to the Right” tunes: The Capitol Steps, a musical political satire troupe, performs these and other irreverent original tunes in skits that skewer politicians on both sides of the aisle. You can see them every weekend at the Ronald Reagan Building. See p. 179.
Dare to Dine at a Drag Brunch: Sassy drag queens dressed to the hilt sashay around the room, lip-synching to the DJ’s tunes and entertaining all who’ve turned up for the all-you-can-eat $25 buffet at Perry’s Drag Brunch, 1811 Columbia Rd. NW (www.perrysadamsmorgan.com; 
202/234-6218), held every Sunday 10am to 3pm. The brunch is a Washington institution: Everyone comes to this Adams Morgan hot spot at some point, so expect to see partiers burning the candle at both ends and straight-laced types likely heading to the office after the show.
Explore Washington from an Unconventional Angle: Yes, it’s a graveyard, but Oak Hill Cemetery is also a beautiful wooded and landscaped garden with a grand view of the city from its hillside perch. Here lie monuments and resting places for some of Washington’s most illustrious residents, from the city’s early days as well as recent years. See p. 210.
Play Street Hockey in Front of the White House: Pennsylvania Avenue in front of the White House is closed to traffic, which makes it a perfect place for street hockey fanatics to show up Saturdays and Sundays at noon for pickup games. All you need are skates and a stick.