While many crocheters happily stitch along, making up their own projects without ever following a published pattern, others like to follow a pattern. For this, you need to be able to understand written pattern instructions. Some patterns are written with text only, some written mostly with symbols, while others are a mix of the two. You’ll find handy lists of common crochet terms and symbols in the appendix.
Q: Published patterns seem to be written in a different language! How do you go about “translating” them?
A: If you’re put off by written instructions because they look complicated, think of them as a recipe. Most people are comfortable with reading recipes because they are familiar with cooking terminology and abbreviations. If you take the time to become comfortable with crochet jargon, you’ll be well on your way to following any written pattern. Read this chapter, and refer to the Appendix for more on standard crochet abbreviations and common crochet phraseology.
Q: What do well-written patterns have in common?
A: Although crochet patterns may not be standardized, well-written patterns have a lot in common. Before you start a pattern (even better, before you buy!) look for the following features:
See also: Schematic drawings
See also: Stitch pattern multiples
If these attributes are missing, it can be a red flag that the pattern might be lacking crucial information and might be hard to follow. The best instructions have not only been written to certain standards, they have been checked by editors and perhaps by test stitchers for accuracy. This won’t eliminate all errors, but it sure does help make it easier to follow the instructions. If you think your pattern is not up to snuff, simply find another one. There are plenty out there to choose from!
Q: I’ve never followed a pattern before. Where do I begin?
A: Start by looking at the preliminary section that describes materials needed, gauge, and size information. Take a look at the schematic drawing, if one is given. If it’s a garment written in multiple sizes, choose your desired size. Choose a suitable yarn, then scan the how-to-stitch section for an idea of how the project is constructed. You may not understand everything at the first reading, but you’ll get an overview of the pattern and notice if anything in particular jumps out at you. It’s usually easier to follow the pattern once you have yarn and hook in hand.
Q: How do I know if a pattern is too difficult for me?
A: Some pattern publishers designate skill levels as beginner, easy, intermediate, and advanced to suggest the ease with which certain types of crocheters may be able to follow a pattern. These labels can be somewhat arbitrary, however, as many of us have some mix of beginner and more advanced skills. Some pattern will designate “skills used” in a design, which may be somewhat more helpful. However, if the instructions are well written, even beginners can learn advanced skills. Let skill designations be a guide, but not a rule, when choosing patterns.
Q: If skill levels aren’t given, how do I know if I can follow the pattern?
A: Scan the pattern to see if you recognize the stitches and techniques used. Ask yourself these questions:
Don’t let anybody tell you that you can’t stitch something. If you are willing to learn new techniques, you can do it!
Q: What should I expect to see under “materials”?
A: This is the ingredients list of your crochet recipe, the items that you need to gather in order to make your project. It’s a good idea to collect all of them before you begin stitching, although you may want to wait to purchase buttons until you can try them with your finished fabric. The materials list may include the following:
Q: Why do I need to look at the gauge statement before I even get my yarn?
A: If you have been crocheting for a while, you know that the suggested gauge can give you an idea of the size/weight of the yarn called for in the pattern. It also gives you an idea of how heavy the fabric will be and, if you are using a yarn other than the yarn called for in the pattern, what kind of yarn you should use. In some cases, you may find (to your delight) that gauge is not crucial in the project.
Q: What is a schematic, and why is it important to review it?
A: A schematic is a graphic representation that includes the dimensions of the pieces of a project. It is often shown at the end of a pattern, but it is important to look at it before you start stitching because it contains a lot of useful information.
A schematic shows the shape and proportion of each stitched piece, so you can have an idea of what shape you are creating. It may show details such as pocket placement and neck or edge treatments. If the garment is made in one piece, the schematic indicates that.
If the shaping of the front and back are similar, often only the front schematic is given. If the sweater is a cardigan, you may have only one half of the front. Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of information given! You can look at a schematic and determine where you might need to make size adjustments: longer or shorter sleeves, wider neckline, and so on.
Q: Why are some sizes written within parentheses?
A: When instructions for more than one size are given in the pattern, the numbers within the parentheses indicate the number corresponding to a particular size. You may find it easier to follow the instructions if you circle the numbers for your size with a pencil or highlight it with marker throughout. Here is a typical example:
Sizes: Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large)Finished Chest Sizes: 38 (42, 46, 50)"
In the above example, the number for the smallest size is first, followed by the number for each subsequent size in that same order within the parentheses. In this case, size Small has a finished chest measurement of 38"; size Large has a finished chest measurement of 46".
Sometimes both parentheses and brackets are used to denote several sets of measurements:
Sizes: Child’s S (M, L, XL) [Adult’s S (M, L, XL)]
See also: Making the Right Size for more on sizes and fit and for ease in sweaters.
Q: Can I just assume that size Medium will fit me, just as it usually does?
A: Just because you wear a size 7 shoe, you wouldn’t buy any size 7 shoe without trying it on! Don’t assume you wear a size Medium because you always wear a size Medium. The medium size may just be the middle size given in the pattern. You’ll have to determine what the designer means by “medium.”
Q: So how do I know which size to make?
A: Use all the information that the pattern instructions give you to determine what size is best for you. Look at the information about finished measurements that you find at the beginning of the instructions and in the schematic. Compare the finished measurements with a garment that fits you well and is of similar style and weight. Choose the size that results in the closest match to your desired finished chest/bust measurement. Remember, you can always shorten or lengthen the sleeves and bodies of garments.
If you don’t have a finished garment to measure, look at the finished measurements and compare them to your actual body measurements. Take into account how much ease you will need to get the silhouette you want for that garment.
See also: Making the Right Size for more on ease and measurements.
Q: What’s the best way to take body measurements?
A: For hats, measure around the fullest part of the head, keeping the tape level and snug around the forehead. For socks, place a ruler on the floor next to your foot; measure from the back of the heel to the tip of the longest toe. Also measure around the widest part, usually around the ball of the foot. You may also choose to measure sock height from the floor (heel turn) to the length desired.
See also: Making the Right Size for measuring and sizing for sweaters.
Q: What does “increase every sixth row” mean?
A: Work five rows even, then increase on the sixth row. Increases are on rows 6, 12, 18, 24, and so on. Alternatively, you can increase on the first row, then work five rows even, placing increases on rows 1, 7, 13, 19, and so on.
Q: Why are there Pattern Notes or special instructions?
A: Some pattern directions highlight information that is important for you to know before beginning. Be sure to read these carefully. Some examples you may run across include, “Yarn is used double throughout” and “Body of sweater is worked in one piece to underarm.”
Q: What does continue in this manner or continue as established mean?
A: Say you’ve been increasing, decreasing, or working a particular stitch pattern. When you come to these instructions, you simply keep doing what you’ve been doing, following whatever the immediately preceding instructions say to do.
Q: Why is stitch pattern listed?
A: If a stitch pattern other than single, double, or treble crochet is used, it is often written out in full before the instructions for the piece. The stitch pattern multiple should also be given. The instructions usually tell you to work your gauge swatch in this stitch pattern.
See also: Pages 155–57 for gauge swatch.
Q: Do I have to memorize all of those abbreviations and symbols?
A: Don’t worry! Both text- and symbol-based instructions usually include a key explaining every abbreviation, symbol, or special stitch used in a project. Any unusual symbol is also accompanied by a text explanation of how to execute the stitch. If it’s not listed on the pages right next to the project, look in the front or back of the book, magazine, or pattern.
While there are some more-or-less standard abbreviations, standardization is relatively new to the crochet world. It’s a good idea to check the abbreviations every time you start a new project. In time, you’ll find you’ve memorized the most common abbreviations without even trying.
See also: Standard Crochet Abbreviations
Q: All these punctuation marks are giving me a headache. Why are there so many?
A: Your high-school English teacher was right: punctuation matters. In our written language, punctuation marks show us where to pause and collect our thoughts before continuing on through a paragraph. In crochet patterns, they serve the same role by helping us move through a row. Each pattern publisher has its own punctuation style, but there are many similarities from pattern to pattern.
For example: (Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.
Translation: Yarnover, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarnover, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarnover, pull through 2 loops on hook.
For example: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into ch-3 space.
Translation: Into the next space made by 3 chains, put a single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, and single crochet, in that order.
For example: [(dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc) two times, dc in next dc] two times
Translation: Into the previous row of double crochet stitches, work double crochet, chain 1, skip 1 double crochet, double crochet, chain 1, skip 1 double crochet stitch, double crochet (that’s the first whole set written with brackets), double crochet, chain 1, skip 1 double crochet, double crochet, chain 1, skip 1 double crochet, double crochet.
For example: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next stitch; repeat from * two more times.
Translation: Chain 1, single crochet in same stitch, chain 1, skip 1 stitch, single crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skip 1 stitch, single crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skip 1 stitch, single crochet in next stitch.
Some directions are worded “repeat from * twice,” instead of “repeat from * two more times.” Both examples mean the same thing: specifically, that you should work through the entire set of instructions from the asterisk (*) to “repeat from” once, then repeat that section two more times, for a total of three times.
Exception: Repeat from * to last 3 stitches, end sc in last 3 stitches.
Translation: You are to repeat the pattern until there are only 3 stitches left in the row, then work 1 single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches to end the row. If you don’t finish the repeated portion of the pattern with 3 stitches left to go on your row, you’ve done something wrong.
For example: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, sc in next sc**, ch 2, dc in next sc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **
Translation: The last stitch of the round will be a single crochet.
Q: What if different punctuation marks are used in the same row?
A: This means that there are multiple steps within a row. You still follow a prescribed order for the steps. Start at the beginning of the row or round, and do each step as it comes. When you reach a set of parentheses or brackets, follow the sequences as described above as many times as necessary, then move on to the next step. For example, here’s what you might find for a border written for working around an afghan:
Ch 1, *[sc in next 2 sts, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next st, sc in next 7 sts] to corner st, (sc, ch 5, sc) in corner st, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around.
Translation:
Q: I get confused when pattern instructions use asterisks and say to “repeat x times” while others say to do something within the parentheses a certain number of times. How many times do I work the instructions after the asterisks or between the parentheses?
A: Let’s use this example:
“Do this, do that; rep from * three times.”
vs.
(Do this, do that) three times.
Think of it this way: you can’t repeat something until you have done it once, so any time the instructions say “repeat from *”, you work the instructions after the * once, then work them again the number of times indicated.
In the first example above, you “do this, do that” a total of four times: once, then repeated three (more) times.
In the second example, you “do this, do that” a total of three times.
However, a warning is in order here: there are some designers who do not understand this concept, and who do not follow this convention. If the pattern is not working out, try working the instructions a different number of times to see what works — or contact the publisher or designer for clarification.
Q: I thought I did what the instructions said, so why don’t I come out with the right number of stitches at the end of the row?
A: Double-check your work to make sure you understood and followed the instructions correctly. Did you treat the turning chain properly, counting it as a stitch (or not), according to the instructions? Sometimes you can fudge a stitch or two to make it come out right, even if you did make a mistake. However, if you are going to be able to see the mistake, or if it will have undesirable consequences on future rows, you’ll have to rip out the row and start again. If you just can’t get it to work, perhaps there is a problem with the pattern.
See also: Pages 105–11 for turning chain; Where can I find pattern help?
Q: Why are there extra numbers at the end of a row? I don’t have enough stitches to work them.
A: You may be confused by the stitch count at the end of a row. When the stitch count has changed during a row because of increases or decreases, most patterns give you an updated stitch count so you can check your number.
For example: You start with 21 stitches on a row. The next row says: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in next 19 sts, 2 dc in turning chain. [23 dc] You have increased one stitch at the beginning and at the end of the row, resulting in 23 double crochets.
Be aware that this stitch count number may be punctuated in a number of different ways. It may be in parentheses or brackets (as shown), or it may simply stand alone between periods or after a dash.
Q: I’ve tried and tried — why can’t I get the pattern instructions to come out right?
A: Of course, your pattern instructions may have a mistake! Here are some ways you can check yourself and the instructions.
See also: To Learn More
Q: Where can I find pattern help?
A: That depends on the pattern. If you need help with basic crochet stitches and techniques, study this book or other books, or use online resources. If the pattern instructions themselves are the problem, check out the website of the pattern publisher. Both large publishers and independent designers often have errata pages on their websites, where they post any known pattern errors and the fix to them. You may also check Ravelry and other social media sites to find comments made by other crocheters who have made the same pattern. As a last resort, you may contact the publisher (or designer) directly if you think you have found an error that has not shown up on your online search.
See also: To Learn More for resources; Online for Ravelry.
Q: I’m left-handed, and the instructions aren’t working for me. What should I do?
A: Most crochet instructions are written for right-handed crocheters, those who work from right to left across a row. Often it doesn’t matter which way you work, but sometimes if you stitch from left to right across a row, the instructions don’t work for you. Try substituting “left” for “right” and “right” for “left” in the instructions you are reading.
See also: Can I crochet left-handed?
Q: What does RS facing mean?
A: RS is the right side of the fabric, the side you want to show to the public. When the instructions note the right side is facing you, it means that you are holding the piece with the right side toward you and you are about to stitch across it.
Q: What does it mean to “end with a wrong-side (WS) row”?
A: Ending with a wrong-side row means that the last row you work is a wrong-side row. Finish stitching a wrong-side row, then move on to the next step in the instructions. If the instructions say to turn at the end of the wrong-side row, you’ll be continuing on a right-side row.
Q: How do I keep track of my place in patterns?
A: Try one or more of the following techniques:
Q: Why do some patterns have stitch symbol diagrams?
A: In many countries, and increasingly in the United States, crochet instructions rely on symbols instead of, or in addition to, text to indicate placement of stitches. Each type of stitch is represented by a symbol that resembles that stitch. The stitches that have been introduced in this book have included the most common symbol for each stitch, to help you become familiar with them. If you are learning to crochet, it’s just as easy to learn the symbol (and the abbreviation) at the same time you learn the stitch.
Q: Why should I bother to read and become familiar with symbol crochet?
A: Because the symbols resemble the stitches they represent, symbol crochet allows you to see what the stitch pattern is supposed to look like and to see the relationship of stitches to one another. You can see exactly where to place each stitch and what shape the final stitches take. You can see at a glance the type of stitches used. Many crocheters find this way of presenting patterns easier to follow than written instructions. Having a visual aid can help you avoid mistakes before they happen.
Another advantage to learning this system is that you can read patterns from any country. For example, you’ll find that stitchers in Japan are doing amazing things with crochet.
Q: How do I understand the symbols?
A: Consult the chart key, Stitches at a Glance*, and Standard Crochet Abbreviations to become familiar with each symbol. You’ll note that there is a certain logic to the symbols: a row of chain stitches looks like a chain, a double crochet is taller than a single crochet, and a treble crochet is taller still. The tall stitches each have hash marks on them to distinguish their height (and if you think about it, the number of hash marks on dc and tr indicate the number of times you “yarnover, pull through 2 loops” to get the loops off the hook). Front post and back post symbols have little “hooks” at their base, which reminds you that your hook goes around a post. Front loop only and back loop only symbols look like the front loop and back loop of a V, and appear between the stitch the hook goes into and the base of the stitch you are creating.
Symbols may be stretched, skewed or bent in order to re-create the shape they take in the actual fabric, but the basic form of the symbol remains the same. The bottom of the symbol indicates which space or stitch your hook goes into, and the upper portion of the symbol tells you which type of stitch to make. For example, the 3-dc cluster in What is a Cluster? shows 3 double crochets worked into the same base, and finished off all together as 1 stitch.
The symbols presented in this book are just one version of symbols you might see in modern American patterns. Different publishers have different styles; sometimes the hash mark on a stitch is tilted and sometimes it is straight. Sometimes a single crochet is shown as + and sometimes it’s shown as ✕. Different countries may use different symbols entirely. Don’t panic if you see a symbol you don’t know — there should always be a stitch key somewhere nearby! You may even discover that you can interpret new symbols without a lot of trouble, once you understand the basic symbols and their variations.
Q: How do I read a symbol crochet diagram?
A: First make sure you understand the different stitches that are used in the diagram. Rows are numbered alternately on the left and right edges of the chart, indicating in which direction right-handers will work each row. Rounds are numbered along the right edge only. Alternate rows/rounds are sometimes in different colors to help you differentiate between the rows. There may be a section of repeated stitches, which indicate that you work that set of stitches a certain number of times as needed.
Begin with the required number of foundation chains (count them on the chart) or a center ring, and continue “reading the picture” as you make each stitch, placing the hook and making the stitch as indicated.
Sometimes symbol diagrams show just a portion of the stitch pattern, indicating the beginning and end of a row or round, and some, but not all, of the stitches in between. However, this type of diagram will start you off with enough information to show what is going on in the “missing” part of the diagram.
For practice reading a stitch diagram, accompanied by text instructions, look at following examples: Single Crochet Triangle, Crocheting a Semicircle, Traditional Granny Square, and How do I read a filet crochet graph?
Q: How do I read a symbol chart if I’m left-handed?
A: Symbol charts are written for those who stitch right-to-left. You’ll have to remember to start each row on the opposite side of the chart and read in the direction that you are stitching. You may find it helpful to scan the stitch chart and flip it vertically to make it easier to read. For motif-style charts, simply read the stitches in a clockwise direction.
Q: What’s the difference between “dc in next 2 dc” and “2 dc in next dc”?
A: In the first example, you are putting a double crochet stitch into the top of each of the next two double crochet stitches, as in “dc in each of the next 2 dc.” In the second instance, you are putting two double crochets into a single base: the top of a double crochet.
Q: What is the difference between “sc 1” and “1 sc”?
A: Probably nothing. Different pattern publishers have different writing styles.
Q: How does copyright apply to me?
A: All written crochet patterns and articles are copyrighted, whether or not they say so explicitly. As such, they should not be photocopied or shared electronically without permission of the copyright holder. It is neither ethical nor legal to copy a pattern to give to your best friend, even if the pattern is no longer in print. It is neither ethical nor legal to make copies of instructions from a book so you can teach from it. And in many cases, it is neither ethical nor legal to buy a pattern and then crochet many copies of the item to sell at a craft fair.
If you want to obtain permission to share a pattern, write to the publisher, who will put you in touch with the copyright holder. This may be the author or designer of the published pattern, or it may be the publisher.
There is one exception to the restrictions on copyrighted material: if you bought the pattern and would like to make a copy for yourself so that you can see it better, carry it conveniently in your crochet bag, or make notes on it without altering the original, no special permission is required.
Q: Where can I get free patterns?
A: Yarn companies often give away patterns with a yarn purchase, and most have free patterns available on their websites. In fact, there are thousands of free patterns available on the Internet. Do a search for “crochet patterns,” or look at To Learn More, to get a start on finding free patterns.
Remember that patterns from individuals on the Internet may not have been edited for clarity and accuracy. If you are a beginning crocheter, you should probably start by using an edited pattern from a well-known yarn company site or from a reputable self-published designer.
See also: Where can I find pattern help?