REGIONAL FOODS OF FRANCE

Image

1. PARIS AND ÎLE-DE-FRANCE

Paris and Île-de-France contain the most densely populated, wealthy communities in France. The political capital is also the hub of French cuisine. In Paris you will find ingredients from every corner of France as well as delicacies from almost all other food producing countries. It’s a vast playground for all food lovers, and the number one tourist destination in the world. Although much of the arable land in the Île-de-France region is relegated to large industrial farming, Île-de-France is known for some outstanding locally grown products.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Grand Marnier, exclusively made at Neauphle-le-Château and le Noyau de Poissy

Local whiskey-spiked cider (Cidre Briar)

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Brie from Meaux

Poultry (Volaille)

Houdan poultry is popular locally for its dark flesh and unusual taste. It’s excellent in slow-cooked recipes.

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruits de Mer)

Crayfish and fish from rivers and canals.

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Mushrooms (Champignons de Paris) grown in caves and old quarries; see Chèvre, Shallot (Echalote), Mushroom (Champignon), and Bacon (Lardon) Tartine on page 111.

Watercress from Méréville (cresson de méréville)

Faro apples (pommes)

Grolay pears from local orchards (poires); see Cherry (Cerise) Compote on page 87.

Montmorency cherries used for preserves and lamb (cerises); see Leftover Red Wine and Pomegranate (Grenade) Poached Pear (Poire) on page 231.

Desserts and Chocolates (Desserts et Chocolat)

Mille-Fuille—literally a thousand leaves; a divinely flakey pastry

Macarons—round, colorful pastries in a variety of flavors

Paris-Brest—pastry in the shape of a wheel, named for the historic Paris Brest-Paris bicycle race

Saint Honoré—named for the patron saint of pastry chefs, Saint Honoré is not cake-based, but a puff pastry confection

Galette des rois Parisienne—A wonderful Parisian and French tradition, this giant puff pasty has been eaten on January 6th to celebrate the Epiphany

Choux Chantilly—cream puffs

Brioche Nanterre—a delicious eggy breakfast bread named after the town where it was created. It is made by placing balls of dough on the baking pan and allowing them to rise during proofing and baking.

Brioche Parisienne—the classic brioche form. A large ball of dough is placed in a brioche tin and topped with a smaller ball.

Tarte Bourdaloue—a rich tarte, usually made with poached pears

Regional Specialties (Spécialités Régionales)

Rose Petal Jam (Roseaux du Grand Morin)

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame sandwiches baked or fried boiled ham and cheese sandwich. Croque Madame is served with a fried egg.

Cuisses de Grenouilles—Frog Legs

Saucisson—Dry Sausage

2.  NORTH-WEST (NORMANDY, BRITTANY, NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS, PICARDY)

This area is known for all things apple—think cider, Calvados, and Tarte Tatin. Its Camembert cheese, mussels, and oysters give new meaning to a meal, and if you’re into crêpes, you have just found your happy place!

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Calvados—brandy made from apples

Breton Cider—traditionally served with crêpes

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Camembert—from Normandy, soft creamy cow’s milk

Brillat-Savarin—made in Pays de Bray, cow’s milk, extremely soft and creamy

Petit Suisse—made in Pays de Bray—lovely texture, mostly eaten for dessert or breakfast topped with something sweet; see Seared Banana (Banane) Crêpe with Hazelnuts, Brandy, and Petit Suisse on page 234.

Pont-l’Évêque—made in pays d’Auge from cow’s milk, creamy and soft

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruits de Mer)

Try to visit Cancale, a town on Côte d’Emeraude.

Scallops (coquille Saint-Jacques); see Seared Scallops (Coquilles Saint-Jacques) with Peas (Pois), Bacon, and Mint (Menthe) on page 177.

Sole (sole)

Lobster (Homard); see Lobster (Homard) à l’Armoricaine on page 179.

Crayfish (crevisse)

Mussels (moule)

Oysters (huîtres); see Oysters (Huîtres) with Calvados, Apple Cider, and Brown Butter on page 41.

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Cauliflower (chou-fleur); see Roasted Cauliflower (Chou-Fleur) with Currants and Capers on page 209.

Artichokes (artichaut); see Roasted Garlic Artichoke (Artichaut) on page 202.

Apples (pomme); see Apple (Pomme) and Kouign-Amann Pudding on page 226.

Persimmons (kaki); see Chopped Endive, Blue Cheese, Persimmon (Kaki), and Walnut Salad on page 200.

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Galettes—rustic fruit tarts

Rich stews like Cotriade, a sensational marriage of bass, whiting, mackerel, sardines, and other local seafood with potatoes and onions

Claufoutis—a baked-custard fruit dish; see Raspberry (Framboise) Clafoutis on page 236.

À l’Armoricaine sauce—a luscious tomato-based sauce

Far Breton—a prune-based dessert

3. CENTRAL (PAYS DE LA LOIRE, CENTRE, BURGUNDY)

In this area of France, the quality of the wine and beef have had a major impact on its cuisine.

Dishes like boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin originated here. The locals also take great pride in their ability to cook snails perfectly. It is a legendary wine producing part of France.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine

Pinot Noir

Chardonnay

Beaujolais

Aligoté

Gamay

Sauvignon Blanc

Cabernet Franc

Chenin Blanc

Liquors

Guignolet (made from cherries)

Chartreuse (produced by monks)

Chambord

Crème de cassis

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Cheese

Chaource—soft cow’s milk cheese from the village of Chaource

Epoisses—made in Auxois from cow milk, semi-soft, orange rind

Mâconnais—made in Mâcon from goat milk, soft interior

Crottin de Chavignol—made in Sancerre from goat milk, soft flaky

Chèvre—goat cheese; see Chèvre, Shallot (Echalote), Mushroom (Champignon), and Bacon (Lardon) Tartine on page 111.

Poultry (Volaille)

Géline fowl (poule géline)

Guinea fowl (pintade)

Pintade (Guinea Fowl a la Normande)

Poultry from Bresse

Meat (Viande)

Wild Game (jeu sauvage)

Lamb (agneau)

Charolais cattle (Béail Charolais)

Sausage (saucisse)

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Pears

Strawberries (fraises)

Melons (melons); see Canteloupe (Melon de Cavaillon) with Bayonne Ham (Jambon de Bayonne) and Toasted Almonds on page 211.

Belle Angevine Pears (poires belle angevine); see Crêpes with Pears (Poires), Gruyère, and Thyme on page 43.

Cherries (cerises)

Currants (groseilles)

Mushrooms (champignons)

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruits de Mer)

Frog legs (cuisses de grenouille)

Pike (brochet)

Perch (perch)

Trout (truit)

Lake and stream fish (poisson de lac et de ruisseau)

Regional Specialties (Spécialités Régionales)

Vinegar from Orléans (vinaigre d’Orléans)

Dijon mustard (moutarde de Dijon)

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Fish with white butter sauce (beurre blanc)

Boeuf bourguignon—a classic beef stew; see Beef (Boeuf) Bourguignon on page 151.

Escargot—Snails

Croûte aux morilles—a creamy soup served with crusts of fresh bread

Poulet à la comtoise—a rich chicken dish featuring eggs, cream, vegetables, and cheese

Smoked Meats

Salade Lyonnaise—a gorgeous salad made with lardons, frisée, a warm vinaigrette, and topped with a poached egg.

Gateau de ménage—a cake which is almost like a brioche, covered with an egg cream called Gourmet

Tartiflette—this dish, from Savoy in the Alps, is made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons, and onions

4. SOUTH CENTRAL (LIMOSIN, POITOU-CHARENTES, TOULOUSE, QUERCY, AUVERGNE)

Toulouse, the capital of the region, is called the “pink city” because it is famous for its sausages. They are free from additives and preservatives, containing only pork meat, salt, and pepper. The area is also famous for the violets you’ll see used for flavorings and crystallized in bonbons. Earthy, robust food is a favorite on menus in this part of France.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine

Vin de Branceilles

Vin de Corrèze

Vin de Pays Charentais (excellent with meat)

Cote d’Auvergne from Auvergne

Saint-Pourçain from Auvergne

Spirits

Cognac and brandy made from grapes (Pineau des Charentes)

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Cantal—made in Auvergne from cow’s milk, medium firm and slightly crumbly

Fourme d’Ambert—made in Monts du Forez, cow’s milk, creamy blue 

Chabichon du Poitou—made in Poitou from goat milk, dry flaky texture

Roquefort—the famous blue

Cabécou—sift goat cheese sprinkled with coarse black pepper and wrapped in two chestnut leaves

Look for Lescure butter in Charentes. Local pastry chefs covet it; see Anchovy Butter (Beurre d’Anchois) and Radishes (Radis) on page 94 and Avocado (Avocat), Radish (Radis), and Seaweed Butter Tartine on page 114.

Poultry (Volaille)

Challans Poultry—duck and black chicken are refined, distinctive poultry particularly appreciated by chefs

Goose (oie)

Duck (canard); see Pan-Roasted Duck Breast (Magret de Canard) with Seared Mirabelle Plums on page 125.

Meat (Viande)

Cattle from Parthnaise

Beef, lamb and game from Limosin

Dry sausages and Saucisse from Toulouse

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruit de Mer)

Oysters from the Olèron-Marennes basin

Mussels from the Bay of Aiguillon

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Mushrooms (champignons)

Haricot vert (haricot vert); see Oven-Roasted Haricots Verts or Asparagus (Asperges) on page 206.

Lentils (lentilles)

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Cassoulet—a rich stew long-cooked with duck, sausage, beans, garlic, and herbs

5.  EAST (RHÔNE-ALPES, FRANCHE-COMTÉ)

This part of France has taken much of its culinary traditions from German favorites, so pickled and pork-related dishes are popular. You’ll find heavy, savory pastries and tarts, and of course Quiche Lorraine, which is the most famous dish in the region. Look for foie gras, jams and preserves during your stay.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine

Côte Rotie

Condrieu

Hermitage

Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Gigondas

Vacqueyras

Côtes du Rhône

Vin Jaune

Côte du Jura

Trousseau

Vin de Paille

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Comté—cow’s milk, especially firm

Morbier—made in Franche-Comté, cow milk, firm with an interior stripe of ash

Vacherine—made in Haute Doubs, cow milk, covered in pine bark which creates a slightly resinous note. Best served with a spoon.

Poultry (Volaille)

Poultry from Bresse—reputed to be the world’s best-tasting chicken

Guinea Fowl (pintade)

Meat (Viande)

Sausages (saucisses)

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Fruits

Young vegetables

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Coq au vin—a classic French stewed chicken cooked in wine

Tartiflette—a potato dish from Savoy in the Alps; see Tartiflette on page 204.

6.  NORTH-EAST (LORRAINE, ALSACE, CHAMPAGNE)

This part of France is also heavily influenced by German food. Here, it’s the staples that are best known. Potatoes, beetroots, and other vegetables that are harder to grow in warmer climates. You’ll find excellent charcuterie, and best of all, the region produces Champagne.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine/Champagne

Côtes de Meuse

Côtes de Moselle

Gewürztraminer

Riesling

Sylvaner

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Noir

Tokay`

Beer

Alsatian Beer

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Bon dormois—a soft cow’s milk cheese 

Brie de meaux—made in Alsace-Lorraine

Bleu de Bresse- made in Bresse from cow milk, rich creamy blue

Munster—made in Alsace-Lorraine from cow milk, soft and aromatic

Carré de l’Est—soft ripened cheese

Meat (Viande)

Ham (jambon)

Charcuterie

Game (jeu)

Pork (porc); see Figs (Figues) with Crumbled Bacon, Chili, and Honey on page 39 and Pork Loin (Longe de Porc) with Apples (Pommes) and Onions on page 154.

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Cabbage (chou)

Potatoes (patates)

Carrots (carottes); see Roasted Carrot (Carotte) Crudités with Yogurt-Tahini Crème on page 47.

Beets (betteraves)

Pears (poires); see Pear (Poire), Brie, and Thyme Tartine on page 110.

Raspberries (framboises)

Grapes (raisins); see Pickled Grapes on page 37.

Cherries (cerises)

Mirabelle Plums (mirabelle); see Pan-Roasted Duck Breast (Magret de Canard) with Seared Mirabelle Plums on page 125.

Apples (pommes); see Pont-l’Évêque and Apple (Pomme) Tartine on page 109.

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Quiche Lorraine—cream, eggs, cheese baked in a flaky crust

Preserves

Alsation Flammekueche—a thin crust pizza with a crème fraîche and fromage blanc, topped with bacon, sliced onions and rosemary or scallions

Andouilette—a course-grained sausage made with pork; see Lentils (Lentilles) with Andouille and Vinaigrette on page 160.

Tarte aux Pommes—apple tart

Madeleines—light, buttery cookies, usually with a lemon flavor

7. SOUTH-EAST (PROVENCE and CÔTES D’AZUR)

Spain and Basque cooking have influenced the food in this sun-drenched part of the country. Here you’ll enjoy peppers, spicy sausage, flavorful tomatoes, and the famous Bayonne ham. Piperade (a mixture of peppers, onions, tomatoes, and eggs) is a local favorite.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine

Côtes de Provence

Coteaux d’Aix-in-Provence

Bandol

Spirits

Pastis

Cassis

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Reblochon—made in Savoie, cow milk, soft and runny

Tomme de Savoie—cow milk, semi- firm, rich and nutty, slightly sharp

Beaufort—cow milk, firm and very rich

Abondance—made in Haute Savoie, cow milk, firm

Poultry (Voliaille)

Chicken (poulet)

Meat (Viande)

Lamb (agneau); see Mead and Honey Braised Lamb Shanks (Souris d’Agneau) on page 156.

Beef (boeuf)

Sausage (saucisse)

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruits de Mer)

Anchovies (anchois)

All Seafood; see Seared Salmon (Saumon) with Fennel (Fenouil), Olives, and Orange on page 187.

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Olives (olives)

Herbs (herbes)

Lavender (lavande)

Thyme (thym)

Rosemary (romarin)

Basil (basilic)

Fennel (fenouil)

Tarragon (estragon)

Tomatoes (tomate); see Roasted Tomato (Tomate) Jam on page 45.

Garlic (ail)

Citrus Fruits

Regional Specialties (Spécialités Régionales)

Truffles (truffes)

Carmaque red rice

Olive oil

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Bouillabaisse—French fish stew; see Simple Shellfish (Fruits de Mer) Bouillabaisse on page 181.

Poulet Provençal—chicken cooked with tomatoes, olives, and herbs

Salade niçoise—a hearty salad made with tuna, olives, capers, potatoes, green beans, hard-boiled eggs on a bed of leafy greens

Pan bagnat—the perfect picnic sandwich made with tuna, Niçoise olives, anchovies, and other deliciousness on a crusty baquette.

Ratatouille—seasonal vegetables cooked with olive oil and garlic

8. SOUTH-WEST (AQUITAINE, LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, BORDEAUX, DORDOGNE)

This is a marvelous destination for those who love food. Its borders of the Atlantic, Spain, and the center of France give it almost unlimited possibilities for ingredients that inspire great cooking. You’ll find substantial farm fair along with excellent seafood. There is definitely a Spanish influence.

Look for these local products in stores and farmers’ markets:

Wine and Other Libations (Vin et Autre Libations)

Wine

Cohors

Bergerac

Languedoc-Roussillon

Corbières

Côtes du Roussillon

Côteaux du Languedoc

Bordeaux

Spirits

Armagnac—brandy made from grapes

Sauternes

Cheese, Eggs, and Dairy (Fromage, Ouefs, et Latier)

Sheep cheese

Roquefort—made in Rouergue, sheep’s milk blue with creamy texture

St. André—made in Rouergue, extra creamy cow’s milk 

Etorki—made in pays Basque, sheep milk, firm interior 

Chèvre from Cevennes

Poultry (Volaille)

Free range turkeys (dindes en liberté)

Pigeon (pigeon)

Capon (chapon)

Goose (oie)

Duck (canard)

Meat (Viande)

Bayonne jambon—air dried salted ham

Jambon Cru—cured ham

Agneau de Pauillac—lamb; see Mead and Honey Braised Lamb Shanks (Souris d’Agneau) on page 156.

Beef (blonde d’Aquitaine); see Hanger Steak (Onglet) with Sautéed Mushrooms (Cépes), Cream, and Brandy on page 149.

Beef (Boeuf de Chalose)

Beef (Boeuf Gras de Bazas, and Garonnaise)

Fish and Shellfish (Poisson et Fruits de Mer)

Oysters (huîtres)

Mussels (moules)

Crab (crabe); see Crab (Crabe) and Poached Egg Tartine on page 92 and Crab (Crabe), Lamb’s Lettuce (Mâche), and Avocado (Avocat) with Grapefruit (Pamplemousse) Vinaigrette on page 184.

Fruits and Vegetables (Fruits et Legumes)

Prunes (pruneaux)

Mushrooms (champignons)

Truffles (truffes)

Peppers (poivrons)

Tomatoes (tomates)

Chestnuts (châtaignes)

Berries (baies)

Honey (meil)

Regional Dishes (Plats Régionaux)

Confit de canard—duck in duck fat

Foie gras—a spread made with duck or goose liver

Pruneaux d’Agen—pitted prunes

Pâte—liver paste

Terrine—layers of chopped meat and vegetables cooked in an earthenware dish

Bourride—a fish stew thickened with egg yolks

Rouille de seiche—a cuttlefish stew

Catalan cuisine—food from part of Spain bordering France