Author picks
Our intrepid author has explored almost every street, alley, nook and cranny in central Seoul, in a quest to better understand this fascinating city. Here are some of his favourite discoveries…
Gwangjang market Seoul in a nutshell, this hugely atmospheric market is the capital’s merriest place to go for dinner and drinks – find yourself throwing back beef tartare, mung-bean pancakes, indescribable seafood and rice beer with the locals.
A jog down the Cheonggyecheon The banks of this pretty stream are great for a run – though it’s busy with people at the beginning, you’ll be left with just cyclists and other joggers by the time the Cheonggyecheon’s waters pour into the Hangang.
Café culture Seoul may well have more cafés per square kilometre than anywhere else on Earth, and some of them are spellbinding – hunt down secluded Hanyakbang, try a converted wooden house such as Books Cooks, or enjoy designer furniture or utensils at Café aA or Café Madang.
Alamy
CAFÉ AA
Sunset from Namsan The peak of Seoul’s mini-mountain is a prime spot to head to at dusk, when you can marvel at the city’s rapid transformation from grey to pulsating neon.
Joseon-era palaces Of Seoul’s half-a-dozen immensely appealing palaces from the days of dynasty, Changgyeonggung is the one to head for as it’s chock-full of historical note, yet not as full of tourists as the other palaces.
Makercity Sewoon Proof that Seoul is now learning to use what it has rather than bashing things down and trying to recreate Manhattan, this redeveloped jalopy of a building is now attracting a new generation of locals.
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CHEONGGYECHEON
Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the 
symbol.