BAKED SEA BREAM IN GREEN SPICE PASTE WITH YOGHURT RICE
If you can’t find sea bream, this very simple baked fish recipe works just as well with any flat fish. The spice and herb paste works especially well with the chilled yoghurt rice as an accompaniment. In the summer cook the fish on a barbecue for an added smoky, char-grilled flavour.
SERVES 4
4 sea bream, scaled, gutted and butterflied (ask your fishmonger to do this)
½ teaspoon Chaat Masala
juice of 1 lemon
For the marinade
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
1 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the Green Spice Paste
100g fresh coriander (roots, stalks and leaves), washed
30g mint leaves
6 green chillies, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
42g Greek yoghurt
For the Yoghurt Rice
100g Greek yoghurt
70g basmati rice, boiled
1 green chilli, chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
6 fresh curry leaves
a pinch of ground asafoetida
2 tablespoons whole milk
2 tablespoons fresh pomegranate seeds
Wash and pat dry the sea bream. Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then rub them all over the sea bream and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.
For the green spice paste, put all the ingredients except the yoghurt in a blender or food processor and blitz until a smooth paste forms.
After the fish has marinated, mix the green spice paste with the yoghurt and then gently spread on to the marinated fish, taking care not to break it. Leave the fish to marinate for a further 30 minutes.
Place the sea bream on a baking tray and transfer to an oven preheated to 220°C/Gas Mark 7 and roast for 12–15 minutes, turning the fish over once, until the flesh flakes easily.
Meanwhile, make the yoghurt rice. Stir together the yoghurt, rice, chilli, ginger, coriander, salt and sugar in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a pan until smoking point and add the mustard seeds.
When they crackle, add the curry leaves and, once they have wilted, add the asafoetida. Pour this warm tempering into the rice and yoghurt mixture. Add the milk and fold everything together. Sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds. Cover and chill until required.
When the fish are cooked, remove them from the oven, sprinkle with the chaat masala and lemon juice and serve immediately with the yoghurt rice on the side.
Vivek’s tip
Having the fish butterflied by the fishmonger gets rid of most bones. And even though there may still be some small bones for you to pick out, you’ll still find it much more convenient.
This is a great recipe for roasting a whole fish with spices. It’s quite flexible in the sense that you could use a wide variety of fish, as long as it’s the right size for each fish to serve one person. The firm texture of sea bream makes it ideal for roasting and works really well with the flavours from the spices.
SERVES 4
4 whole fish, such as bass, bream or red snapper, 350–400g each, cleaned, gutted, scaled if necessary and fins and tail trimmed
4 tablespoons melted butter or ghee, to baste
For the marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ajowan seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
juice of 2 lemons
For the spice crust
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon gram (chickpea) flour
100g chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1½ tablespoons cumin seeds, roasted
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, roasted
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon dried red chilli flakes
½ teaspoon salt
50g Greek yoghurt
To start the spice crust, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan. Gradually add the gram flour, stirring over a low heat for 2–3 minutes to prevent lumps from forming. When it is blended and smooth, remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool.
Wash and pat the fish dry with kitchen paper. Slash the fish 2 or 3 times on each side with a sharp knife. Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade and rub them into the fish, then set aside to marinate for 10–15 minutes.
Meanwhile, finish the spice crust. Put all the ingredients, except the remaining oil and the gram flour mixture, in a mortar and pound into a coarse paste, gradually adding the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Mix in the gram flour mixture and the yoghurt. Apply the spice crust on both sides of the fish to form an even coating. Fill the belly of the fish with any leftover mixture.
Place the fish on a baking tray and cook in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 15–18 minutes, turning the fish around once for even cooking. Baste regularly with clarified butter or ghee. If the fish start to get too much colour, reduce the temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 after 6–8 minutes; you may need to cover the fish with kitchen foil to prevent the skin from getting too dark and the spice crust from burning.
Serve the fish with pilau rice and/or a green salad, with lemon wedges for squeezing over.
CINNAMON KITCHEN CLASSICS: STEP BY STEP
The ingredients that make up the spice crust.
The whole fish should be completely covered.
Cook in the oven carefully, being careful not to burn the spice crust.
CRAB AND COD KOFTAS WITH GOAN CURRY SAUCE
The lime leaves in these fishcakes gives them a fresh zing, which I like a lot, and they complement the acidity in the Goan sauce very well, too. These fishcakes can be seared, as I have suggested below, or steamed if you prefer.
SERVES 4
500g cod fillet, skinned
300g fresh white crab meat
30g butter, melted
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
4 green chillies, finely chopped
2 fresh lime leaves, finely shredded
2 red onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the Goan Spice Mix
10 cloves
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1½ teaspoons black peppercorns
2 black cardamom pods
3 star anise
5 dried red chillies
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
For the Goan Curry Sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
2 tomatoes, chopped
125ml fish stock
100ml coconut milk
Wash the cod fillet and dry with kitchen paper. To make the koftas, mince the cod fillet coarsely in a food processor or chop it finely with a large knife. Mix it with the crab, butter, ginger, chillies, lime leaves, onions, coriander and salt, then divide into 8 equal balls and shape them into patties. Cover and chill until required.
For the Goan spice mix, dry-roast the spices individually in a frying pan on a medium heat until they release their aroma. Blend them with the garlic and vinegar in a food processor or a mortar and pestle, gradually adding the sugar and salt.
To make the sauce, heat the oil in a deep pan, add the onion and sauté. When the onion is softened and starts to turn golden, add the chilli powder and cook for 30 seconds. Increase the heat, add the tomatoes and cook for 4–6 minutes, until they have disintegrated and are almost dry. Now lower the heat, add the spice mix and cook for 5–6 minutes, until the oil starts to separate. Add the fish stock and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Increase the heat, add the coconut milk and simmer for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens and becomes glossy. The sauce should now taste hot and sour.
Heat the oil in an ovenproof frying pan on a medium heat, add the koftas and sear for 2–3 minutes on each side until golden brown. Transfer them to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and cook for 3–5 minutes.
Pour some sauce on to 4 serving plates and arrange the koftas on top. It is delicious served with Lemon Rice and wilted spinach.
HADDOCK WITH CRAB AND KOKUM CRUST
This is one of Cinnamon Kitchen’s originals that we had on the menu when we opened back in 2008. The dish received fantastic feedback from critics and customers alike. Feel free to replace the haddock with cod, hake, pollack, plaice or any other white fish of your choice. Hot rice is an ideal accompaniment.
SERVES 4
4 boneless haddock steaks, about 140g each
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the marinade
2 dried whole red chillies, crushed
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
¼ teaspoon onion seeds
For the Crab and Kokum Crust
80g fresh white crab meat
10g kokum berries, soaked in hot water, then squeezed and chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ red onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
30g butter
30g breadcrumbs (ideally panko breadcrumbs)
For the Coconut and Ginger Sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
6–8 fresh curry leaves
2 green chillies, slit lengthways
1 onion, sliced
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into fine strips
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
250ml fish stock or water
125ml coconut milk
½ teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar
Wash the haddock steaks, trim them into square portions and pat dry on kitchen paper. Mix together all the spices for the marinade, then rub them over the fish pieces and leave to marinate for 10 minutes.
For the crab and kokum crust, mix together all the ingredients except the butter and breadcrumbs, then set aside. Heat a pan, add the breadcrumbs and toast on a low heat, gradually adding the butter. Remove from the heat and, when the crumbs are cool, add them to the crab mixture and set aside.
Make the sauce. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, add the curry leaves, chillies, onion and ginger and fry them on a medium heat until the onion is softened. Add the turmeric and fry for 1 minute. Add the fish stock, cover and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk and salt and continue simmering until the sauce thickens. Add the sugar.
Heat the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the haddock portions, skin-side down, and sear for 2–3 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and cook for about 6 minutes, until the flesh flakes easily.
Cover the top of the haddock portions evenly with the crust mixture. Place under a hot grill for 1–2 minutes, until golden. To serve, place the fish on 4 serving plates and pour the sauce around. Wilted spinach is a good accompaniment.
BARRAMUNDI, MUSSELS AND SHRIMPS, DOI MAACH STYLE
In essence, this is a traditional Bengali fish curry, but made more interesting by the addition of shrimps and mussels. Cutting the fish into large chunks allows for better appreciation of the texture of the fish, too. I like barramundi for its meatiness and firm texture. It also reminds me of bekti, a freshwater fish we used to eat all the time in Kolkata, where the Bengalis swear by their fish dishes. Here in the UK, barramundi hasn’t been much valued, as some people find it earthy or muddy. Now, however, it seems to be growing in popularity, with barramundi farms established in the New Forest, in Hampshire.
SERVES 4
600g barramundi fillets, cut into 8 equal pieces
150g shrimps or small prawns, peeled and deveined
200g live mussels
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
For the marinade
200g plain yoghurt
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
For the sauce
4 tablespoons mustard oil (or use 4 tablespoons vegetable oil mixed with 2 teaspoons English mustard), plus extra for drizzling
3 cloves
2 green cardamom pods
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
2 onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
4 green chillies, slit lengthways
200g plain yoghurt
Pat the barramundi pieces and the shrimps dry on kitchen paper, then set aside the shrimps. Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then gently rub them over the barramundi pieces and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes. Take care not to break up the fish.
Meanwhile, wash and clean the mussels. Discard any open ones that do not snap shut when tapped, then set aside the remainder.
Heat the mustard oil in a large, heavy-based pan on a medium heat. Add the cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon, peppercorns and bay leaf and fry for 30 seconds, then add the mustard seeds and let them crackle. Add the onions and sauté for 4–6 minutes, until translucent.
Add the barramundi and its marinade to the pan and mix gently, but thoroughly. Add the salt and cook for 5–6 minutes. Add the shrimps and cook for another 1–2 minutes, stirring occasionally, followed by the green chillies and mussels. Gradually add the yoghurt, stirring well after each spoonful, cover and cook on a low heat for 4–5 minutes, until the fish flakes easily and the mussels open. Discard any mussels that remain closed.
Sprinkle with the coriander and drizzle with the mustard oil. Serve with steamed rice.
AMRITSAR-SPICED HALIBUT STUFFED WITH MUSTARD MUSHY PEAS WITH CAPER KACHUMBER AND TANDOORI POTATO WEDGES
When the organisers of a London restaurant festival called upon five chefs from all over the city to give their own ‘twist’ to quintessential British favourites, this was my interpretation of the ever-popular fish and chips.
SERVES 4
500g halibut fillets, cut into 4 equal-sized portions
oil for deep-frying
For the Caper Kachumber
½ small cucumber, deseeded and cut into 5mm dice
½ red onion, cut into 5mm dice
2 small tomatoes, deseeded and cut into 5mm dice
3 tablespoons capers
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon Chaat Masala
juice of ½ lime
For the marinade
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lime
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
For the Mustard Mushy Peas
300g shelled peas, fresh or thawed (preferably petits pois)
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
3 green chillies
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1½ tablespoons mustard oil (or use 1½ tablespoons vegetable oil mixed with ½ teaspoon English mustard)
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
juice of ½ lime
For the Tandoori Potato Wedges
4 large Desiree potatoes, peeled and cut in half
1 litre water
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
For the potatoes’ filling
4 ready-to-eat dried figs, cut into 5mm dice
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon raisins
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
1 tablespoon chopped mint
½ tablespoon cashew nuts, fried in a small amount of oil and lightly crushed
½ teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lime
For the batter
2 tablespoons gram (chickpea) flour
1 tablespoon rice flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon ajowan seeds
¼ teaspoon Garam Masala
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
50ml water
First make the caper kachumber. Place the diced cucumber, red onion, tomato and capers in a non-metallic bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, chives, sugar, salt, chaat masala and lime juice to make a dressing and mix it with the diced vegetables and capers. Check the seasoning, cover, then set aside in the fridge.
Wash and pat dry the halibut fillets on kitchen paper. Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, rub them over the halibut fillets and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.
To make the mustard mushy peas, put the peas, ginger, chillies, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the mustard oil, salt and sugar in a blender or food processor and blend to make a smooth purée. Check the seasoning and finish with the lime juice, then fold in the rest of the mustard oil. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions. Place each portion on a sheet of cling film and twist from both ends to make a thin roll, about 1cm in diameter. Put the mushy pea portions in the freezer to set.
Begin the tandoori potato wedges. With an apple corer or a melon baller, carefully scoop out the centre of each potato half to make a hollow shell about 5mm thick, then set aside. Cut the trimmings into 5mm dice and set aside.
Put the water, vinegar and salt in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the potato shells and return the water to the boil, then drain. Dry the potatoes on kitchen paper.
Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a large, deep saucepan to 170°C. Add the potato shells and fry for about 6–7 minutes, until lightly coloured. Remove them and leave to drain on kitchen paper. Now fry the diced potato until crisp and golden and drain on kitchen paper.
Mix together all the ingredients for the potato filling with the fried diced potato and carefully use to stuff the potato shells.
With a filleting knife or a metal skewer, carefully cut a pocket into the centre of each piece of halibut, taking care not to cut through. Remove the mushy pea rods from the freezer and unwrap. Gently press one rod into each pocket.
Transfer the potato shells to a roasting tray, and place in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and roast for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together the ingredients for the batter until smooth and thick. Heat more oil for deep-frying to 190°C. Quickly dip the fish into the batter, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Fry the fish for 4–5 minutes, until crisp and golden.
Cut each potato shell into 4 wedges and serve with the fried halibut and caper kachumber.
SMOKED HADDOCK KEDGEREE ‘KICHRI’
This classic Anglo-Indian dish derives from the popular kichri – rice and lentils cooked together with ginger, chillies and onions. The British adapted the dish by adding eggs and smoked fish and it then made its way back here as a breakfast dish. Often the eggs are just boiled and flaked into the rice, but here we have also poached one and placed it on top. It makes for an excellent brunch dish, too.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tomato, deseeded and chopped into 1cm dice
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 tablespoons fish stock or water
500g basmati rice, boiled
1 teaspoon salt
2 hard-boiled eggs, the whites chopped and yolk discarded
150g undyed smoked haddock, poached in a little milk and flaked
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
30g butter
2 tablespoons single cream
freshly ground black pepper
For the poached eggs
1 litre water
2 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
4 eggs
Heat the oil in a pan, add the onion and sauté over a medium heat for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the ginger, chillies and tomato, stirring to mix well. Add the turmeric and cook for a minute and then add the fish stock. Tip in the boiled rice, then add the salt, fold in the chopped egg white and flaked haddock and sprinkle in the coriander. Gently stir in the butter and cream and remove from the heat.
For the poached egg, take a shallow pan and pour in the water, add the vinegar and salt and simmer. Now carefully break the eggs and simmer slowly till the whites coagulate and a thin film is formed on the yolk in the centre. You must take care that, at no stage, the water in the pan comes to boiling point, as it will ruin the eggs.
Divide the kedgeree into bowls, grind a twist or two of freshly milled pepper, top with the poached eggs and serve immediately.
TANDOORI-STYLE KING PRAWNS WITH BENGALI KEDGEREE
The prawns can be cooked just as well on a barbecue if you happen to have one going, and being served with a simple home-style kedgeree made with rice and lentils completes the dish beautifully. Rather than simply cooking the prawns in the kedgeree, which is traditional but doesn’t allow for full appreciation of textures, this version is helped immensely by recreating the tandoori effect, and the spices really bolster the flavours as well as textures.
SERVES 4
800g raw, headless king prawns
a few salad leaves or cress to garnish
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
For the second marinade
12g Greek yoghurt
½ teaspoon ajowan seeds
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
For the Bengali kedgeree
100g split yellow mung beans
500ml water
a pinch of ground turmeric
3 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 large onion, chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
75g basmati rice, boiled
1 tomato, deseeded and cut into 1cm dice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
juice of 1 lemon
Peel the prawns and devein them by making a shallow cut along the back and lifting out the dark intestinal vein with the point of a sharp knife. Wash. Put them in a bowl, add the ingredients for the first marinade and mix well. Cover and leave to marinate for 20 minutes. Now combine all the ingredients for the second marinade and coat the prawns well in the mixture. Cover and set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.
To make the kedgeree, wash the mung beans, put them in a pan with the water and turmeric and bring to a boil. Simmer for 25 minutes until the lentils are disintegrated and all the water has evaporated, then remove from the heat and set aside.
Place half a dozen bamboo skewers in a bowl or pan of water and leave them to soak for 30 minutes.
Heat the ghee or oil in a pan to smoking point and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and onion and cook for 4–6 minutes until translucent. Add the ginger, green chillies and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the cooked mung beans and salt, and then gently fold in the rice. Mix in the tomato and stir over a low heat for 3–4 minutes until the tomato has softened. Finish with the coriander and lemon juice. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Now skewer the prawns onto the bamboo skewers and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 10–12 minutes until cooked. We cook them in a tandoor at 220°C/Gas Mark 7 for 5–6 minutes.
To serve, divide the kedgeree between 4 serving plates, place the prawns on the kedgeree and garnish with salad leaves.
SALMON WITH DILL AND HORSERADISH
This recipe for tandoori-style salmon gets an unusual twist from the addition of horseradish in the marinade, a very British combination.
SERVES 4
4 salmon fillets, about 150g each, cut into 75g chunks
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
For the second marinade
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
50g Greek yoghurt
2 tablespoons grated horseradish
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped dill
1 teaspoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
1 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
½ teaspoon sugar
Wash and pat dry the salmon fillets. Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade, then rub them over the salmon fillets and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.
For the second marinade, mix together all the ingredients, then rub them over the salmon and leave to marinate for an additional 15 minutes.
Use long metal skewers to skewer the fish chunks and place, skin side down, on a baking tray. Roast the salmon in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 7 minutes, then place under a hot grill for 2 minutes.
Alternatively, place the fish skin-side down on a hot barbecue and cook for 10–12 minutes, turning them over every 3–4 minutes, until the skins are crisp and well coloured.
Serve with lemon wedges and chutneys of your choice.
SPICE-CRUSTED TILAPIA WITH KOKUM CURRY
I love southern Indian coconut-based sauces, and sometimes just a little adjustment or shift in the proportions of the spices gives very different results. This recipe gives a little prominence to kokum berries, the astringent, tomato-like fruit so commonly used in Kerala.
SERVES 4
8 tilapia fillets
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 quantity Citrus Mashed Potatoes
For the marinade
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
½ teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
juice of ½ lemon
For the spice crust
1 dried red chilli
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
For the kokum curry
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 fresh curry leaves
1 large onion, chopped
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
2 kokum berries, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes
3 tablespoons fish stock
250ml coconut milk
juice of ½ lemon
Wash and pat dry the tilapia fillets on kitchen paper. Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then rub them over the fish and set aside for 30 minutes.
To make the spice crust, roast the spices together in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until the aromas are released. Pound together in a mortar and pestle until crushed coarsely. Set aside.
Meanwhile, make the kokum curry. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, add the curry leaves and onion and sauté for 6–8 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the chilli powder, salt and tomatoes and cook on a high heat until the tomatoes are softened and the liquid has evaporated. Add the kokum berries with the soaking liquid and fish stock and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the coconut milk and simmer for a further 2–3 minutes, until the sauce is creamy. Finish with a squeeze of lemon.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil in an ovenproof frying pan on a medium-low heat, add the tilapia fillets and sear for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer the pan to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and roast for 10 minutes, until the fillets are cooked. Sprinkle the spice crust evenly on the fillets.
Divide the sauce between 4 serving plates, put the fish on top and serve with the citrus mash.
Vivek’s tip
You might find kokum berries labelled as black mangosteen in the UK. Look for them in Asian food shops, but if you don’t find any, substitute tamarind paste.
SEARED SEA BASS WITH ROASTED AUBERGINE CRUSH AND PETITS POIS
The aubergine crush and kachumber are probably two of the most familiar Indian accompaniments and might be considered mundane in most circumstances, but the combination with a simple fried fillet of sea bass is stunning. The sprinkle of stir-fried peas and cumin has a dramatic impact and makes it a great springtime dish. It’s also a great dish for entertaining, as much of it can be prepared in advance.
SERVES 4
4 sea bass fillets (or any white fish), pin-boned, and with skin slashed two or 3 times
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 quantity of Aubergine Crush
Coriander Chutney, to serve
For the marinade
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
½ teaspoon red chilli flakes
For the petits pois stir-fry
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 green chilli, finely chopped
100g shelled petits pois, fresh or thawed
½ teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon chopped mint leaves
First make the marinade by mixing together all the ingredients, then rub them over the fish, cover and set aside for 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan, add the fish fillets, skin-side down, and sear on a medium-high heat for 3–4 minutes, until well coloured underneath. Turn and cook for another 2 minutes, or until just cooked through.
To make the petits pois stir-fry, heat the oil in a frying pan to smoking point on a medium-high heat, add the cumin seeds and let them crackle. Then add the green chillies, peas and salt and stir-fry for 2 minutes or so until the peas are cooked but still retain a bright colour. Finish with the chopped mint and remove from the heat.
To serve, place the aubergine crush in the centre of each plate and put the fish on top, then spoon the coriander chutney around. Finish by garnishing with the stir-fried petits pois.
Inspired by a Keralan favourite, moily – a fish curry made with coconut milk, curry leaves, green chillies and ginger – this recipe highlights the beauty of its simplicity. Being so simple, it’s also demanding in that the fish must be extremely fresh for the dish to be fully appreciated.
SERVES 4
500g live mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded (discard any open ones that do not snap shut when tapped)
250g peeled and deveined raw prawns
200g undyed smoked haddock fillet, cut into 2.5cm dice
200g squid tubes or cuttlefish, cleaned and scored
2 green chillies, slit lengthways
500g puff pastry, thawed if frozen, rolled into 4 × 16cm circles, each about 3mm thick
1 egg, beaten, to glaze
black mustard seeds, to garnish
For the sauce
2 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil
a sprig of fresh curry leaves (about 20 leaves)
1 large onion, sliced
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into fine strips
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons rice flour
500ml extra-thick coconut milk (if using canned milk, separate the thick milk from the thin)
1 teaspoon salt
For the salad
100g sprouted fenugreek seeds
100g sprouted mung beans
1 tomato, deseeded and cut into 5mm dice
1 green chilli, finely chopped (optional)
½ cucumber, deseeded and cut into 5mm dice
2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
First make the sauce. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add 12 curry leaves, onion, ginger and green chillies and cook, stirring, for 6–8 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the turmeric, followed by the rice flour, stirring to mix in the rice flour evenly. Add the coconut milk and salt.
Add the mussels and simmer for 2–3 minutes, until the mussels open up and sauce begins to turn glossy. Remove the mussels from the pan and discard any mussels that haven’t opened. Remove the remainder from their shells and set aside, and discard the shells. Continue simmering the sauce until very thick. Remove from the heat and set aside. When cool, stir in the shelled mussels and remaining seafood.
Divide the mixture among 4 shallow cast-iron skillets or ovenproof dishes and sprinkle each pie with a couple of curry leaves and half a green chilli.
Cover each skillet with a puff pastry circle, brush with the egg glaze and sprinkle with the black onion seeds. Transfer to a fan-assisted oven preheated to 220°C/Gas Mark 7 and bake for 10–12 minutes, until the pastry is crisp and golden. The pies need to be cooked as briefly as possible. In a conventional oven the pies will cook more slowly, so roll the pastry more thinly to help reduce the cooking time (otherwise the fish will overcook).
Meanwhile, make the salad. Place the sprouted seeds and beans, the tomato, green chilli, if using, and cucumber in a mixing bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and sugar to make a dressing and combine it with the diced ingredients. Set aside.
Vivek’s tip
It’s great if you want to make your own puff pastry, but it’s available in supermarkets. If you are buying, however, go for the all-butter variety. It is by far the best tasting.
LUCKNOW-STYLE BLACK LEG CHICKEN BIRYANI
A traditional dum-cooked biryani is a classic family dish, suitable for entertaining large numbers. Our Lucknow Biryani is an attempt to simplify this otherwise complex dish. Precooking the chicken and assembling the rice and meat in a casserole pot ensures a quicker, simpler, safer result. Compared to the Hyderabadi version, which uses raw marinated meat, this is easier to master. Remove the lid when all the guests are around, for as the steam escapes the pot, it will fill the surroundings with the aroma of saffron, rose water and spices.
SERVES 4–6
250g basmati rice
750g chicken thighs, skin and bones removed and cut in half
For the marinade
2 medium onions, sliced and deep-fried until golden
2 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 tablespoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
⅛ nutmeg grated
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
1 small bunch mint, chopped
½ bunch of fresh coriander, chopped
juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
150g plain yoghurt
75ml single cream
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Spices for boiling
3 litres water
5 green cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
4 cloves
2 blades of mace
1 tablespoon cumin
3 tablespoons salt
50g ghee or vegetable oil
a few strands saffron, soaked in ½ cup warm milk for 5 minutes
1 tablespoon rosewater or screwpine essence
Begin by washing and soaking the rice for 20 minutes in cold water, then allow it to drain in a sieve. Mix all the ingredients for the marinade, add the chicken pieces and set aside for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the saffron and warm milk with the ghee and rosewater or screwpine essence.
In the casserole dish you intend to use for the biryani, bring the chicken and the marinade to a simmer on a low flame and cook for 20 minutes or so until the chicken is tender.
In a large saucepan boil 1.5 litres water with the whole spices and salt, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the drained, soaked rice and boil for about 8–9 minutes. The rice should be more than three-quarters cooked. Drain and arrange the rice in a layer over the marinated cooked chicken.
Sprinkle some chopped mint over the layer of rice, along with the soaked saffron mix, and cover the casserole with a lid. You may wish to seal the lid using some dough to create a pressure cooker effect. Put the casserole on a low flame for 5–7 minutes until steam starts escaping from the lid, then remove from the heat. Set the casserole aside to rest for 5 minutes after taking it off the heat.
Serve the biryani with a raita of your choice.
OLD DELHI STYLE BUTTER CHICKEN
Over the years this has been such a favourite of ours that we couldn’t resist the temptation to add it to this book. Small tweaks such as using young chicken (poussin) just make it slightly different from our previous versions.
SERVES 4
2 × 750g free-range young chicken (poussin), skinned and each cut in half along the backbone (alternatively use 800g boned chicken thighs cut into two)
For the marinade
120g Greek yoghurt
2 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons salt
juice of 1 lemon
3 teaspoons red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
For the sauce
1kg tomatoes
125ml water
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled, half crushed and half finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled
4 green cardamom pods
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon red chilli powder
80g butter, diced
2 green chillies, slit lengthways
75ml single cream
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
1 tablespoon sugar
First prepare the chicken. Make small cuts all over the chicken pieces with a sharp knife to help the marinade penetrate. To prepare the marinade, mix together the yoghurt with all the other ingredients for the marinade in a deep bowl. Smear the cut chicken with the marinade, cover and set aside in the fridge for 10 minutes.
Cook the chicken in an oven preheated to 220°C/Gas Mark 7 for 13–15 minutes. You may need to turn the pieces after 8–10 minutes or so to ensure they colour evenly on both sides. Cut the cooked chicken into smaller pieces as per your preference. The chicken should not be completely cooked at this point as it will be simmered for a few more minutes in the sauce. Strain off the juices through a fine sieve and set aside.
For the sauce, slice the tomatoes in half and place in a pan with the water, crushed ginger, garlic, cardamom, cloves and bay leaf and simmer until the tomatoes have completely disintegrated. Now blend this tomato broth with a hand-held blender and pass it through a sieve to obtain a smooth purée. Return to a clean pan, add the chilli powder and simmer for 12–15 minutes.
It should slowly begin to thicken. When the sauce turns glossy, add the chicken pieces and the reserved roasting juices. Then add a cup of water and simmer for about 3–5 minutes until the water is absorbed and the sauce returns to its original glossy consistency.
Slowly whisk in the butter, a couple of pieces at a time, and simmer for 6–8 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is beginning to acquire a glaze. Add the chopped ginger, green chillies and cream and simmer for a minute or two longer, taking care that the sauce does not split. Stir in the salt, crushed fenugreek leaves and garam masala, then check the seasoning and add the sugar. Serve with naan bread or pilau rice.
SPICE-CRUSTED CHICKEN BREAST WITH FENUGREEK SAUCE
This is our version of a deconstructed chicken butter masala, but the spicing and cooking allow for much better appreciation of the quality of chicken being used. All the various elements come together to create layers of flavour, colour and texture.
SERVES 4
4 × chicken breasts, skinned and bone removed
2 tablespoons Coriander Chutney
For the marinade
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
¼ teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
4 peppercorns, crushed coarsely
3 or 4 cloves
For the crust
½ tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 tomato, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon sprouted fenugreek seeds
2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander leaves and stalks
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
pinch ground cinnamon
For the sauce
2½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
2 green cardamom pods
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 medium onions, finely chopped
2 teaspoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 or 3 green chillies, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
75g plain yoghurt
240ml chicken stock or water
50g fresh fenugreek leaves (chopped and washed thoroughly)
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
1 teaspoon cinnamon powder
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons single cream
10g salted butter, chilled and cut into small dice
Flatten the chicken breasts slightly, using a rolling pin or a mallet. Mix together the ingredients for the marinade, spread over the chicken, cover and place in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
Take a piece of aluminium foil large enough to cover a cutting board and place one chicken breast on it. Spread one tablespoon of coriander chutney across it and cover with the second breast, placed so that the top end of one breast overlaps the tail of the second breast. Wrap tightly with aluminium foil. Crimp the edges to seal the wrap properly. Do the same with the second pair of breasts.
To cook the chicken, heat enough water in a heavy-based pan, bring to a boil and then drop in the foil-wrapped parcels, allowing the chicken to simmer in the liquid for 8–10 minutes.
In the meantime, heat the oil in another heavy-based pan to smoking point on a medium-high heat and add the whole spices (bay leaf, cardamom and cumin seeds). Once they crackle, add the onion and cook on a medium heat for 5–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the ginger and garlic paste, green chillies, turmeric powder, salt and red chilli powder and sauté for 2 minutes. Now add the tomatoes and cook for 5–8 minutes, until the oil begins to separate. Now gradually add the yoghurt, a spoonful at a time, and cook stirring continuously, for 3–4 minutes, until all the yoghurt is incorporated. Pour in the chicken stock or water, cover and simmer for 5–6 minutes. Remove the lid and add the fresh and dried fenugreek leaves, cinnamon powder, sugar and cream and simmer for another 2 minutes.
Stir in the butter and keep warm.
Having poached the chicken breast pairs, remove them from the foil, pat-dry and, each pair still sandwiched together, sear in a hot ovenproof frying pan for a couple of minutes on each side to get a good golden colour. Then transfer the pan to an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 for 4–5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly for a couple of minutes.
For the crust, heat the oil in a pan and fry the garlic briefly until it turns golden. Add the onions and sauté over a high heat for 2 minutes until the onions get slightly coloured outside, but still remain crunchy. Now add the tomato, fenugreek and coriander. On a high heat stir for 1 minute, add the salt and sugar and finish with the cinnamon. Remove from the heat and spread the crust across the top of each chicken breast ‘sandwich’. Cut across the breasts to expose the layers of chutney and crust. Each half should be enough for a portion.
To serve, divide the sauce between 4 serving plates and place the chicken on top. Serve with pilau rice and wilted spinach, if you like.
Spice-Crusted Chicken Breast with Fenugreek Sauce
INDO-CHINESE STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH DRIED CHILLIES
Chilli chicken is one of my favourite things to eat, but sadly I can’t find the Indo-Chinese version that I so crave, unless, of course, I make a trek to Dalchini – an Indo-Chinese restaurant in Wimbledon. The use of Indian spices alongside soy sauce is a result of a sizeable Chinese population that has lived in India for centuries. I find this dish works well as a starter and as a main, or just served as a snack with drinks.
SERVES 4
700g chicken thighs, skinned, boned and cut in half
oil for deep-frying
For the marinade
3 garlic cloves, chopped
4 tablespoons cornflour
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
½ chicken stock cube
1½ teaspoons salt
For the stir-fry
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 dried red chillies, broken into pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red onions, finely chopped
½ red or green pepper, cut into 2.5cm dice
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
½ chicken stock cube
1 tablespoon cornflour, mixed to a paste with a little water
juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons chopped chives or spring onions
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then rub them all over the chicken thighs, cover and set aside in the fridge to marinate for 30 minutes.
Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 190°C. Add the chicken pieces and deep-fry for about 5 minutes, until they are crisp, golden brown and just cooked through. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside.
For the stir-fry, heat the oil in a wok until smoking point. Add the dried red chillies and move them around quickly. As they darken, add the garlic and stir quickly. As soon as the garlic starts to change colour, add the onions and the red or green pepper and stir-fry until softened, after about 2 minutes. Then add the fried chicken, salt, sugar, red chilli powder and cumin and continue stir-frying, on a high heat, for 1–2 minutes. Finally add the soy sauce and chicken seasoning and mix well.
When all the vegetables are softened and the spices well combined, add the cornflour paste and stir quickly to mix evenly. This gives the dish an attractive glaze and also thickens the sauce. Squeeze in the lemon juice, add the chives or spring onions and serve immediately with steamed rice or noodles.
Vivek’s tip
The secret of this dish is that you should never let the heat in the pan reduce. Your burner should be on high throughout and you should add an ingredient to the pan only when you are sure it is hot enough.
LAMB KORMA WITH GREEN CHILLIES AND MINT
This is my variation on a typical Kashmiri-style yakhni, better known as a korma. The addition of mint and green chillies gives this otherwise traditional and mild curry freshness, zing and bite!
SERVES 4
750g boned leg of lamb, trimmed and cut into 2.5cm cubes
1 litre water
5 black peppercorns
2 black cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
½ quantity of Spiced Cashew Nut Paste
200g plain yoghurt
For the sauce
6 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
3 green cardamom pods
2 cloves
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and ground in a mortar and pestle or blender
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ teaspoons salt
6–8 green chillies, slit lengthways
750ml water
1 red onion, finely chopped
½ bunch fresh mint, crushed in a blender
¼ teaspoon Mace and Cardamom Powder
1 tablespoon single cream
juice of 1 lemon
Wash the lamb in cold water, then set aside. Put the water, peppercorns, cardamom pods and bay leaves into a large pan and bring to the boil. Add the lamb, bring the water back to the boil and skim the scum from the surface. Drain through a colander and set the lamb aside.
Next make the paste. Combine the prepared cashew nut paste with the yoghurt, blitz until smooth in a food processor and then pass through a sieve.
For the sauce, heat half the ghee in a heavy-based pan to smoking point and add the cardamom pods and cloves. When they crackle, add the ginger and garlic and cook, stirring to prevent sticking, for 2–3 minutes. Add the lamb to the pan and sauté it on a high heat for 5 minutes without letting it colour. Stir in the salt. Add the green chillies and water, cover the pan, reduce the heat and allow the lamb to simmer for 35–40 minutes, until it is tender.
Gradually stir in the cashew and yoghurt paste and continue stirring until the mixture comes to the boil. Stir in the onion, mint, mace and cardamom powder and the remaining ghee and simmer for 3–4 minutes, until the onions are cooked but still crunchy. Just before serving stir in the cream and lemon juice and serve with hot rice or parathas.
Vivek’s tip
Blanching the lamb helps get rid of any blood in the meat, keeping it light in colour.
CHAR-GRILLED RUMP OF LAMB WITH GARLIC AND SPINACH SAUCE
This is a deconstructed version of the quintessential Punjabi favourite, saag gosht. In many ways, I prefer this dish over the traditional version as it allows for much better appreciation of both fantastic British lamb and the garlic-spiced spinach. If you want something extra to serve with this, roughly chop any vegetables you have in the fridge and sauté with some garlic, cumin seeds and dried red chilli flakes to serve as an accompaniment.
SERVES 4
4 × 175–200g rumps of lamb, fat trimmed off
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the first marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
juice of ½ lemon
For the second marinade
25g Greek yoghurt
½ teaspoon salt
a pinch of sugar
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
For the sauce
1kg young spinach leaves
4 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons gram (chickpea) flour
25g butter
75ml single cream
a pinch of sugar
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
¼ nutmeg
Mix together all the ingredients for the first marinade, then rub them over the lamb rumps and leave to marinate for 20–30 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade and set aside.
To begin the sauce, bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the spinach leaves and cook until wilted, then immediately drain and cool in a bowl of iced water. Drain the spinach a second time, squeezing to remove all the water and blitz in a blender or food processor to make a very smooth green paste. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based ovenproof frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the lamb and sear for 3 minutes on each side. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside in a warm place for 5 minutes. Now apply the second marinade. Transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and roast for 6 minutes. Set aside the meat to rest for 6 minutes while you finish the sauce.
Heat the ghee or oil to smoking point and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and cook until golden. Add the onion, reduce the heat and continue cooking for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the chillies and ginger, stir in the ground coriander and salt and sauté for 2 minutes. Gradually add the gram flour, stirring over a low heat for 1–2 minutes to prevent lumps from forming. When it has turned golden, add the spinach paste and mix thoroughly. Now stir in the butter, then fold in the cream slowly, otherwise the mixture may separate. Add the sugar and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Finish by sprinkling in the fenugreek leaves and grating in the nutmeg. Do not cook for too long after adding the spinach paste as it will discolour and render the dish unappetising in appearance.
When the meat has rested, slice thinly and serve with the sauce, pilau rice and some stir-fried vegetables, if you like.
Vivek’s tips
As with cooking any good roast, remember to rest your meat for a good amount of time – for this rump it needs to rest for as long as it cooks. If you slice it as soon as it comes out of the oven, all the juices will ‘bleed’ on to the plate.
This is a very traditional curry that the nomadic tribes in Rajasthan would probably make with goat rather than lamb. Feel free to try goat if you can find any.
SERVES 4
750g boneless lamb shoulder meat, trimmed and cut into 2.5cm dice
6 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
12 cloves
4 black cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
2 onions, finely chopped
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon Garlic Paste
200g sweetcorn kernels, either frozen or canned is fine
250g plain yoghurt
125ml lamb stock or water, plus extra, if necessary
6cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
50g fresh coriander leaves and stalks, chopped
juice of 1 lemon
To start making the curry heat the ghee to smoking point in a heavy-based pan and add the cloves, cardamom pods and bay leaves. When they crackle, add the onions and cook on a medium heat until golden. Add the green chillies, salt, ground coriander, cumin and turmeric and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the garlic paste and continue cooking for 1–2 minutes. Now add the lamb and cook, moving it around on a high heat, for 4–5 minutes, until lightly browned all over. Stir in three-quarters of the sweetcorn kernels and gradually add the yoghurt, stirring well after each spoonful. If you add it too quickly, it will split and make the curry grainy.
Once yoghurt is incorporated, continue stirring and allow the mixture to come to the boil. Add the lamb stock, reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sweetcorn is creamy and soft and the sauce has thickened. Add the ginger, fresh coriander and the remaining sweetcorn kernels, pour in a little more lamb stock or water, if required, and continue simmering over a low heat for 10 minutes. Check the seasoning and finish by squeezing in the lemon juice.
Serve the curry hot with rice or with chickpea breads (see Missi Roti).
ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH SAFFRON SAUCE
Don’t let the picture and cheffy flourishes with sauce put you off; this is a very simple, yet impressive dish to wow your guests with at a dinner party. You can make the sauce and marinate the meat ahead of time, leaving you just to roast, rest, slice and serve!
SERVES 4
2 × 8-bone racks of lamb, cut in half
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
For the marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
juice of 1 lemon
12g Greek yoghurt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
a pinch of sugar
For the sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 cloves
2 black cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
400g tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large onion, roughly chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and ground in a mortar and pestle
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
500ml chicken stock or water
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon Garam Masala
a small pinch of saffron strands
2 tablespoons single cream
15g cold butter
If the racks of lamb haven’t already been prepared, trim off the skin and most of the fat, leaving just a thin layer of fat on the meat. Mix together the ingredients for the marinade, rub them over the lamb and set aside for 30 minutes.
To make the sauce, heat the oil to smoking point in a large saucepan and add the cloves, cardamom pods and the bay leaves. When they crackle, add the tomatoes, garlic, onion and ginger and cook for 4–5 minutes, until the tomatoes and onions are softened. Add the red chilli powder and stock and simmer on a low heat for about 15 minutes, until the tomatoes have completely broken down and the onion is very soft. Purée the sauce in a blender or food processor, then strain it through a fine sieve into a clean pan. Bring the sauce back to the boil, then simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
Add the salt, sugar and garam masala, then sprinkle in the saffron and simmer for 2–3 minutes.
Just before serving stir in the cream and finally finish the sauce by stirring in the cold butter. Do not let the sauce boil after adding the butter or it will separate and become thin. Set aside and keep hot.
To cook the lamb, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan on a high heat. Add the lamb racks and sear for 2–3 minutes, until browned all over. Transfer them to a roasting tray and place in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and roast for up to 15 minutes, depending on how well done you like your meat. Remove from the oven and leave to rest in a warm place for 5 minutes.
Divide the sauce between 4 serving plates, place the lamb on top and serve immediately with Stir-Fried Greens.
Vivek’s tips
The cream and butter emulsify the sauce, so they are added at the very end of cooking the sauce, after you have checked the seasoning, so the sauce doesn’t separate and become thin.
As a rule of thumb, for a very pink and beautiful medium-rare finish, you rest the meat for as long as you cook it. So, if you like your meat really pink in the centre, sear it for a couple minutes, then roast in the oven for 6–8 minutes, remove it and leave it to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Slice the meat only when it is well rested.
CHAR-GRILLED LAMB FILLET FLAVOURED WITH MACE AND CARDAMOM
This is a typical example of Malai marinade prepared in northern India. It is traditionally used with chicken, but I find it brilliant with lambs’ pencil fillets (the equivalent of fillet of beef). The tender meat greatly benefits from the aromas of mace and cardamom. The addition of finely chopped pickled onions as a garnish lifts the dish immensely, too. Neck fillets can be a substitute if pencil fillets aren’t available, although they need cooking for a little longer.
SERVES 4
750g lamb pencil fillets, cut into 4–6 pieces, trimmed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the first marinade
½ teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
For the second marinade
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
½ tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
25g Greek yoghurt
1 teaspoon cream cheese (Philadelphia will do)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon single cream
½ teaspoon Mace and Cardamom Powder
⅛ nutmeg, grated
Pickled Onions, to garnish
Rinse and pat dry the lamb fillets. Mix together the ingredients for the first marinade, then rub this over the lamb fillets and set aside for 10 minutes. In the meantime mix together all the ingredients for the second marinade and stir well to combine.
Heat the oil in a large, ovenproof frying pan on a high heat. Remove the fillets from the marinade and sear for 1 minute on each side until lightly coloured. Remove the fillets from the pan and allow to cool slightly before applying half of the second marinade.
Return the lamb fillets to the pan and place in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and roast for 8 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven and leave the lamb to rest for 5 minutes. Spread the remaining marinade over and flash the fillets under a hot grill for 2 minutes, until they lightly crisp.
Slice each fillet into 3 pieces and serve on a bed of the aubergine crush with pickled onions sprinkled over.
Vivek’s tips
The lamb can also be chopped and wrapped in naan bread or served with pilau rice and a sauce of your choice. If you want to grill the fillets on a barbecue, you don’t have to brown them in the pan first.
SPICE-BRAISED SHOULDER OF LAMB
This is one of my favourite recipes, perfect for entertaining lots of guests in one go. Although the recipe calls for lamb, feel free to use hogget, mutton, or even goat, so long as you stick with the shoulders.
SERVES 8–10
2 shoulders of lamb, weighing about 1.5kg each, trimmed of any surface fat
2 tablespoons red chilli powder
8 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
250ml malt vinegar
500g plain yoghurt
1 quantity Crisp Fried Onions, crushed
2 teaspoons royal (black) cumin seeds
1 tablespoon chopped green coriander, stalks and leaves.
1 tablespoon dried rose petals
1 tablespoon salt
3 potatoes, peeled and sliced 1cm thick
3 large red onions, sliced 1cm thick
6 bay leaves
3 cinnamon sticks, about 5cm each
5 green cardamom pods
500ml water
2 tablespoons melted butter
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Chaat Masala
4 tablespoons single cream
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
With the tip of a sharp knife, cut small incisions in the lamb shoulders at approximately 5cm intervals. Mix together the red chilli powder, ginger and garlic paste, vinegar, yoghurt, fried onions, cumin seeds, coriander, rose petals and salt. Using your hands, massage the spice mixture over the shoulders, rubbing and pressing the spices into the gashes created by the knife. Set aside for 15 minutes.
Arrange the sliced potato and onion on a deep oiled baking tray. Place the shoulders on top of the potato and onion slices, add the bay leaves, cinnamon and cardamom, then pour the water around the shoulders and cover the tray with foil. Place in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and braise for 2½ hours, until the meat is very tender and ready to fall off the bone. Remove the shoulders from the liquid and place on a cooling rack. Pass the liquid through a fine sieve and reserve to make the sauce.
Now roast the shoulders on a barbecue or under a very hot grill, basting frequently with the melted butter, until crisp and well browned. Finish with a drizzle of lemon juice, any leftover melted butter and the chaat masala.
For the sauce, bring the cooking juices to the boil in a small pan and simmer until reduced to a coating consistency. Correct the seasoning and gradually stir in the cream, garam masala and fresh coriander. Pour the sauce over the meat and serve with naan bread.
Vivek’s tip
It’s important to drain all the liquid from the shoulders before roasting them, in order to get a crisp finish.
CINNAMON KITCHEN CLASSICS: STEP BY STEP
Rubbing the marinade ingredients into the lamb.
The crisped-up finished lamb.
I enjoy combining British dishes with Indian techniques and flavours. This dish combines two of Britain’s best culinary loves, curry and a pie!
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 cloves
2 bay leaves
2 green cardamom pods
2 dried red chillies
1 black cardamom pod
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, chopped
3 onions, 2 finely chopped and 1 sliced
1 teaspoon salt
500g boned leg of lamb, diced
1½ tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground cumin
700g lean lamb mince
2 tablespoons tomato purée
25g plain yoghurt
½ sweet potato, finely diced
100g celeriac, finely diced
100g turnip, finely diced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
For the potato topping
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
a pinch of salt
200g floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper
25g butter
15g Cheddar cheese, grated
For the spice mix
3 green cardamoms
2 star anise
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
To make the potato topping, bring a pan of water with the turmeric and salt to the boil.
Peel and quarter the potatoes, then add them to the pan, return the water to the boil and continue cooking until tender. Drain the potatoes well, then return them to the pan and add the butter and Cheddar cheese. Mash the potatoes, then pass through a fine sieve and set aside.
Heat the oil to smoking point in a large, heavy bottomed pan and add the cloves, bay leaves, green cardamom pods, chillies, black cardamom pod and cumin seeds. When the seeds crackle, add the garlic. When the garlic turns golden, add the finely chopped onion and salt and cook, stirring, on a medium heat until for 4–6 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the diced lamb and ginger and garlic paste and cook, stirring, on a medium-high heat for 4–5 minutes, until lightly browned all over. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the spice mix, roast the whole spices and fennel seeds together in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for 1½ minutes, until their aromas are released. Quickly remove them from the pan and grind or pound them to a fine powder in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Set aside.
After the lamb has cooked for 30 minutes, add the chilli powder and ground coriander and cumin and stir for 5 minutes on a medium-low heat. Add the minced lamb and tomato purée and gradually stir in the yoghurt. Cook for another 20 minutes, until the meat is tender and cooked through. Stir in the sweet potato, celeriac, turnip, sliced onion and the spice mix and cook for a further 5–8 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Check the seasoning and stir in the fresh coriander.
Transfer the meat and vegetable mixture to a pie dish and top with the mashed potato. Transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and bake for 10–12 minutes, until the potato topping is golden and the filling piping hot.
Remove the pie from the oven and serve with a green salad.
KERALAN BEEF ‘ISHTEW’ WITH COCONUT AND VINEGAR
This rich, sweet and sharp beef stew from Kerala is a thing of joy. My best experience of this curry was in a Christian household in the spice gardens near Cochin. The beef gets so tender it just falls off the fork, and the balance of sweet, spice and heat makes it very special. Serve with plain steamed rice or uttapam: rice flour batter pizzas.
SERVES 4
1.5 litres water
2 bay leaves
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
4 green cardamom pods
1 teaspoon salt
700g beef chuck steak, diced
For the sauce
3 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil
5 cm piece of cinnamon stick
6 cloves
4 green cardamom pods
4 garlic cloves, finely sliced
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into strips
3 red onions, thinly sliced
8 green chillies, slit lengthways
10 fresh curry leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
500ml blanching liquor
500ml coconut milk
3 tablespoons toddy (palm) vinegar, can be substituted with sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
Heat the water in a deep pan, add the bay leaf, whole spices and salt and bring to the boil. Let the water boil for 5 minutes, then add the beef and blanch for about 5–7 minutes. Drain the meat and reserve the boiling liquid.
To make the sauce, heat the oil in a pan and add the whole spices, followed by the garlic, ginger, onions, green chillies and curry leaves. Cook over a medium heat for 4–6 minutes until the onion is translucent. Add the blanched beef, salt and pepper and the cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the coconut milk and toddy vinegar and cook another 20–25 minutes until the beef is cooked. Sprinkle in the garam masala powder, stir well and remove from heat.
Serve hot with Dosa Pancakes.
SCOTTISH ANGUS FILLET WITH MASALA POTATO WEDGES
Indian spiced steak and chips, I suppose! A good steak is hard to beat and this recipe does exactly what it says on the tin. It’s steak and chips – but with spice!
SERVES 4
For the marinade
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon oil
For the topping
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
2 green cardamom pods
1 black cardamom pods
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
3 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Kadhai Masala
1 teaspoon single cream
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
30g butter
For the Masala Potato Wedges
4 large floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, peeled and cut into wedges
2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1.5 litres water
oil for deep-frying
For coating the potatoes
2 tablespoons cornflour
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon crushed cumin seeds
½ teaspoon onion seeds
2 red onions, sliced into thick rings
1 teaspoon salt
To garnish
½ teaspoon Chaat Masala
1 tablespoon of chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
For the topping, heat oil in a heavy pan on medium-high heat until smoking point, add the whole spices and stir to let them crackle, then add onion and reduce the heat. Then add the salt, cover and cook for another 15–20 minutes until the onions are soft and disintegrated. Add ginger, chilli powder and tomatoes and stir for another 3–5 minutes, until the tomatoes are reduced and the mix becomes quite dry. Add the chopped green chilli and kadhai masala, stir to combine, add the cream, dried fenugreek leaves and chopped coriander. Stir well and remove from the heat. When the crust cools down, pick out whatever whole spices you can from the mix and discard – their job is done.
Blanch the potatoes in a pot of salted hot water and boil with the teaspoon of turmeric for 4 minutes. Drain to discard the liquid. Allow the wedges to cool down. Meanwhile, mix together the ingredients for the coating.
Blend together the marinade ingredients and apply to the steaks. Heat a large heavy-based frying pan to a medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and place the steaks in the pan; sear them on each side for 3–4 minutes for medium-well done. Set the pan aside to rest the meat. Ideally, rest the meat in a warm place for almost as long as you cook it. If you like the meat to be cooked more, place it in a preheated oven at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 to obtain the desired doneness.
Spoon the spice crust onto the steak, dot with blobs of cold butter and keep warm. Place under a grill for about a minute to colour up and serve hot when the guests are ready to eat.
Now finish cooking the potatoes. In a bowl mix together the cornflour, chilli powder, crushed cumin seeds, onion seeds, onion rings and salt and a tiny amount of water if needed and use this mixture to coat the potato wedges. Deep-fry the potatoes for 3–4 minutes until crisp and serve sprinkled with chaat masala and coriander if you like. (The rings of onion add extra texture and colour.)
Divide the potatoes between 4 plates and sit the steak on the side and serve immediately.
Vivek’s tip
Fry the wedges just before you serve the steak – this will allow them to remain crisp. You can try the spice-coated potato wedges available in supermarkets if you don’t wish to make your own.
Scottish Angus Fillet with Masala Potato Wedges
COORGI-STYLE DOUBLE-COOKED PORK SHOULDER
This is a rather unusual dish using pork, which is quite uncommon in most of India, but it is even more unusual in that it includes dark soy sauce, usually associated with Indo-Chinese street snacks. Still more unusual for me is the double cooking technique of braising first and then stir-frying, which is very sparingly used in India, but gives a great texture and depth of flavour.
SERVES 4
750g boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2.5cm dice
2 tablespoons fresh chopped coriander leaves and stalks
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and cut into fine strips
For the marinade
2 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
2 teaspoons salt
8–10 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
4 tablespoons clear honey
3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
10 kokum berries, soaked in 100ml hot water for 30 minutes
For the stir-fry
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 dried red chillies
10 fresh curry leaves
4 red onions, sliced 5mm thick
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, including the soaking water from the kokum berries. Rub over the pork, cover and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight.
The next day, transfer the pork to a heavy-based saucepan and add just enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer and cook, covered, for 1 hour, or until the pork is very tender. Strain the meat, reserving the liquid.
Heat the oil for stir-frying to smoking point in a large wok or frying pan and add the dried red chillies. When they darken, add the curry leaves and stir-fry for 30 seconds or so, until they start to crisp up. Now add the red onions and stir-fry until translucent. Add the strained pork and stir-fry for 6–8 minutes, until browned. Add a tablespoon or two of the reserved cooking liquid and continue to cook until it has evaporated. The meat will acquire a shiny glaze. Correct the seasoning and serve sprinkled with the fresh coriander and sliced fresh ginger.
Vivek’s tip
Use as little water as possible to cook the pork first time around. The liquid will have a stronger flavour when you add it to the stir-fry later.
DUCK LIVERS WITH KADHAI SPICES AND GRILLED APPLE
Here, ground kadhai spices add crunch and texture to the rich duck livers served on caramelised apple slices. You can substitute chicken livers or foie gras for the duck livers. If you like, serve with Coriander Chutney and a salad of your choice.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 green apple
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
250g duck livers, cleaned and trimmed
1 red onion, chopped
1 small tomato, deseeded and chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
1 tablespoon Kadhai Masala
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks, plus extra to garnish
juice of ½ lemon
micro herbs to garnish
Prepare the apple just before you cook the livers, so it doesn’t brown. Core the apple, cut four 1cm slices and brush with oil. Heat a ridged grill pan or frying pan over a high heat. Add the apple slices and cook for about 30 seconds on each side. Sprinkle with the cinnamon and sugar and leave on the heat until the sugar melts and caramelises. The apple should retain a crisp texture. Set aside and keep hot.
Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the coriander seeds and, as they pop, add duck livers and sear for about 30 seconds on each side until browned. Add the onion, tomato and cumin and stir-fry until the livers are cooked through. Sprinkle with chopped ginger and the kadhai masala and finish by adding the coriander leaves and lemon juice.
To serve, divide the grilled apple between 4 serving plates, top each with the stir-fried livers and garnish with more coriander and micro herbs.
BAKED LEG OF RABBIT WITH YOGHURT AND CORNMEAL SAUCE
This is an example of combining different influences into one dish. Here rabbit legs are braised with spices akin to a French-style confit, then sprinkled with roasted spices and baked for extra flavour and texture.
SERVES 4
For the rabbit
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
4 rabbit legs, cleaned and left whole with bone in
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 green chillies, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
1cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
For the spice crust
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
6 cloves
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
For the sauce
1 tablespoon Garlic Paste
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon salt
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons fine cornmeal
250ml strained braising liquid
80ml ghee or vegetable oil
8 cloves
2 black cardamom pods
1 bay leaf
2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
50g plain yoghurt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
juice of 1 lemon
Firstly, prepare the marinade for the rabbit legs. Mix together the turmeric, salt and ginger and garlic paste, spread over the meat, cover and set aside for 10 minutes. In a deep heavy-based pan, heat half the oil and sear the legs for 2–3 minutes on each side until lightly browned and pour in enough water to cover the legs. Add the chillies, peppercorns, cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Bring the liquid to the boil and simmer, covered, over a low heat for about 45 minutes, or until the legs are tender. Remove the rabbit legs from the heat, drain and reserve the stock. Pat dry the rabbit legs and place on a wire rack. Brush with the remaining oil.
Prepare the spice crust by grinding together the spices in a mortar and pestle; you want a fairly coarse texture. Sprinkle over the rabbit and place in a low oven to keep warm.
Now make the sauce. Mix together the garlic paste, turmeric, salt, chopped ginger, cornmeal and braising liquid in a bowl until well combined. Set aside.
Heat the ghee in a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat until smoking point. Add the cloves, black cardamom and bay leaf, and when they start to crackle, add the onion and cook on a medium heat for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the garlic, spice and cooking liquor mixture and cook, stirring well, for 3–4 minutes until everything is thoroughly combined. Gradually add the yoghurt, stirring well after each spoonful. Once all the yoghurt has been incorporated, bring the sauce to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 6–8 minutes until thickened. Check the seasoning and finish with the coriander and lemon juice.
Finally, put the rabbit legs on a grill rack and place under a hot grill at for 3–4 minutes, until the legs are warm and the crust begins to crisp. Divide the sauce between 4 plates and serve with the rabbit legs on top.
BRAISED OX CHEEK IN DATE AND APRICOT SAUCE WITH FONDANT POTATOES
I love this cut of meat. The cheek is obviously a part of the animal that’s done a lot of work, so the muscles are well developed. That means the meat’s great for long, slow cooking and it handles spices very well. Remember, as with all tough cuts of meat, the slower the better, and the longer the better!
SERVES 4
850g ox cheeks, trimmed and cut into 90g pieces
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the marinade
1 teaspoon Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon Ginger Paste
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
2 teaspoons salt
For the sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large onions, quartered
4 tomatoes, quartered
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
500ml chicken stock or water
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
4 star anise
2 bay leaves
1½ teaspoons black peppercorns
3½ tablespoons malt vinegar
8–10 ready-to-eat dried dates, sliced
5–6 ready-to-eat dried apricots, sliced
4 tablespoons single cream
For the fondant potatoes
200g butter
4 Desiree or waxy potatoes, peeled and cut in half
4 sprigs of thyme
3 star anise
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon salt
250ml water
oil for shallow-frying
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade, then rub over the ox cheeks, cover and set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the onions and sauté on a medium heat for 4–6 minutes, until translucent. Add the tomatoes, salt and chilli powder and cook for 10–15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes start losing their juice. Stir in the stock or water.
Once the ox cheeks have marinated, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan on a high heat, add the ox cheeks and sear for 2–3 minutes on both sides until browned.
Arrange the ox cheeks in a casserole just large enough to accommodate them all and evenly spread the sauce on top, making sure the ox cheeks are completely covered. Stir the cinnamon, star anise, bay leaves, peppercorns and malt vinegar into the sauce. Cover the casserole and transfer to an oven preheated to 150°C/Gas Mark 2 for about 2 hours, until the ox cheeks are tender.
Meanwhile, to make the fondant potatoes, slice the cold butter into a heavy-based pan and neatly arrange the potatoes on top, trying to avoid leaving gaps in between. Add the thyme, star anise and cinnamon and pour over just enough water to cover the potatoes. Add the salt and place the pan over the heat. Cover the potatoes with baking parchment or the pan lid to prevent them from drying out and simmer for about 35 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Turn up the heat, uncover and cook until the base of the potatoes turns brown.
Remove the potatoes from the buttery liquid and allow to cool slightly. Heat enough oil for shallow-frying in a heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and fry for about 3 minutes on each side, until crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen paper and keep hot. Do not discard the oil in the pan.
When the ox cheeks are tender, remove them from the casserole and set aside. Strain the sauce though a fine sieve into a saucepan, pressing down to extract as much flavour as possible. Add the dates and apricots and boil, stirring, for 3–4 minutes, until they are soft. Stir in the cream and simmer for an additional minute and check seasoning. Set aside and keep hot.
Warm the oil in the frying pan on a medium-high heat and transfer the ox cheeks to the pan to caramelise for a couple of minutes on each side for extra texture.
Divide the sauce between 4 serving plates, place the ox cheeks and fondant potatoes on top and serve immediately.
Braised Ox Cheek in Date and Apricot Sauce with Fondant Potatoes
ROAST SADDLE OF VENISON WITH PICKLING SAUCE
I love cooking with game, but never had the opportunity to do so in India. The British game season gives me an opportunity to revisit, recreate and sometimes re-imagine dishes that have been lost over the years. Traditionally, venison in India was thoroughly cooked with pickling spices over several days, the spices essential for preserving the meat. Today, with such better quality meat and storage conditions, it seems a shame to cook the meat for so long. Instead, we cook the venison to medium and cook the sauce separately. This has become one of our signature dishes.
SERVES 4
1kg venison from the saddle, trimmed and cut into 4 steaks
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
For the first marinade
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 tablespoon mustard oil (or use 1 tablespoon vegetable oil mixed with ½ teaspoon English mustard)
10 cloves
For the second marinade
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
25g Greek yoghurt
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
For the pickling sauce
3 tablespoons mustard oil (or use 3 tablespoons vegetable oil mixed with 1½ teaspoons English mustard)
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
¼ teaspoon black onion seeds
¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
a pinch of fenugreek seeds
1 onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
100g cashew nut kernels, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes, then boiled and ground to a paste
45g plain yoghurt
250ml chicken stock or water
4 green chillies, slit lengthways
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon jaggery or molasses sugar
For the stir-fried beetroot
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
2 cooked beetroots, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lime
Mix together the salt and chilli powder for the marinade, then rub over the steaks and place them on a heatproof tray. Heat the oil in a small pan and, when it reaches smoking point, add the cloves. Once they have started to smoke, remove the pan from the heat and pour the entire mixture evenly over the steaks. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the pickling sauce. Heat the oil to smoking point in a heavy-based frying pan and add all the seeds. When they begin to crackle, add the onion and sauté for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the turmeric, followed by the cashew paste and cook, stirring, on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Now gradually stir in the yoghurt and continue stirring on a low heat for another 5 minutes, taking care the yoghurt does not split. Add the stock, green chillies, salt and jaggery or molasses sugar and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens and becomes glossy. Remove and keep warm while you cook the steaks.
Heat the oil in a large, ovenproof frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the meat and sear for 2–3 minutes on each side until browned all over. Transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 and roast for 5 minutes if you like your meat pink, longer if you like it cooked more. Remove the steaks from the oven and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, stir-fry the beetroot. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan or wok until smoking point and add the cumin seeds and when they crackle add the garlic. When the garlic turns golden, add the beetroot, chillies, ginger, ground coriander, cumin and salt and stir-fry on a high heat for 1 minute. Add the lime juice and remove the pan from the heat.
Divide the stir-fry between 4 serving plates, place the venison steaks on top and pour the sauce on the side.
JUNGLE CURRY OF GUINEA FOWL WITH FRESH FENUGREEK
This is a very basic, rustic curry that could be made with any kind of fowl, but works particularly well with free-roaming, older birds. Their meat is slightly tougher than that of young birds, but there is so much more flavour. I’m using guinea fowl, but you could easily replace this with chicken if you prefer. In the past, people cooked this outdoors over a wood fire with very basic implements; the spices would often be added whole and the vegetables roughly cut, hence the name jungle curry.
SERVES 4
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 cloves
2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick, broken in half
2 black cardamom pods
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1 bay leaf
4 onions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 × 1.2–1.5kg whole guinea fowl, skinned and cut into 8 pieces
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
1½ teaspoons red chilli powder
1 teaspoon red chilli flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
4 tomatoes, chopped
120g plain yoghurt
2 green chillies, chopped
500ml water
5 tablespoons fresh fenugreek leaves, blanched in boiling water for 1 minute, then drained and chopped
¼ teaspoon Garam Masala
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crumbled between your fingers
juice of ½ lemon
Heat the oil to smoking point in a large, heavy-based pan, add the whole spices and bay leaf and let them splutter. Once the spices change colour, add the onion and garlic and cook for 4–6 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the guinea fowl (or chicken) pieces and stir-fry for 6–8 minutes over a high heat, until starting to brown. Add the ginger and garlic paste, salt, turmeric, chilli powder, chilli flakes, cumin and coriander and cook, stirring, on a high heat for 2–4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring constantly to ensure that the spices do not stick to the bottom of the pan.
Once the oil starts to separate from the masala, gradually add the yoghurt, stirring well after each spoonful. Then add the green chillies, reduce the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid comes to the boil again. Add the water, bring to the boil, then simmer over a low heat for 10 minutes, or until the meat is fully cooked. Stir in the blanched fenugreek leaves, followed by the garam masala, dried fenugreek and lemon juice. Serve with rice or chapattis.
Vivek’s tip
To make this dish dairy free, you could easily replace the yoghurt with water.
STIR-FRIED SOUTH INDIAN GOOSE BREAST
This is a great alternative to a traditional Christmas roast goose and can easily be adapted to use up any roast goose leftovers the next day.
SERVES 4
800g boned goose breast
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 fresh curry leaves
2 green chillies, slit lengthways
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and cut into fine strips
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red onions, thickly sliced
2 tablespoons grated coconut, fresh or thawed
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tablespoons coconut milk
juice of ½ lime
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
For the spice mix
2 dried red chillies
1½ teaspoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
5cm piece of cinnamon stick
3 cloves
2 green cardamom pods
Start with the goose breast. Heat a heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the breast, skin-side down, and sear for 3–4 minutes, until the skin crisps. Sprinkle with salt, turn over and sear the other side for a minute or so. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
In the meantime, make the spice mix. Roast all the spices in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for a minute or two, until the aromas are released. Quickly remove them from the heat and pound them in a mortar and pestle to a coarse powder. Set aside.
After the goose breast has rested for 5 minutes, the meat should be medium-rare. Cut it into very thin slices (3–5mm) and set aside.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan or wok and add the curry leaves, chillies, ginger, garlic and onions and sauté on a high heat for 1 minute, until the onions are coloured, but still crunchy. Add the grated coconut, spice mix, sugar and turmeric and continue stirring for another minute. Now stir in the seared meat. Reduce the heat, stir in the coconut milk and continue sautéing until the liquid has evaporated and the meat pieces are evenly coated with the spices. Add the lime juice, sprinkle with the coriander and serve hot with naans or parathas.
ROASTED YOUNG VEGETABLES IN SPINACH CURRY
Saag Paneer, saag aloo, saag gosht, saag vegetables... you get the drift. This is an entire list of Indian dishes based around a spinach curry. I, too, love these dishes, but feel that most Indian cooks don’t treat spinach well enough to fully preserve its nutrients, taste and colour. Here I deconstruct this classic by cooking the sauce separately from the vegetables to better preserve the spinach and its nutrients.
SERVES 4
1½ tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
200g baby carrots, washed and trimmed
200g baby turnips, washed and cut in half
100g baby fennel, washed and cut in half lengthways
100g young celery stalk, washed and cut lengthways
100g radishes, washed and trimmed
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Kadhai Masala
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
juice of ½ lemon
For the sauce
1kg young spinach leaves
50ml ghee or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons gram (chickpea) flour
25g butter
75ml single cream
a pinch of sugar
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
¼ nutmeg
Start by roasting the vegetables. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan to smoking point and add the cumin seeds. Allow it to crackle, then add the garlic and stir for a minute until it becomes golden. Now add the vegetables, one by one, in the order as they appear in the ingredient list, followed by the turmeric. Cook the vegetables for a good 3–4 minutes on a high heat. Add the salt, sugar, and kadhai masala and transfer the vegetables to an ovenproof tray. Cook in a preheated oven at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 10–12 minutes. Add the coriander and sprinkle with lemon juice before serving with the spinach curry.
For the spinach curry, begin with the sauce. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Add the spinach leaves and cook until wilted, then immediately drain and cool in a bowl of iced water. Drain the spinach again, squeeze to remove all the water and blitz in a blender or food processor to make a very smooth green paste. Set aside.
Heat the ghee or oil to smoking point and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the garlic and cook until golden. Add the onion, reduce the heat and continue cooking for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent. Add the chillies and ginger, stir in the ground coriander and salt and sauté for 2 minutes. Gradually add the gram flour, stirring over a low heat for 1–2 minutes to prevent lumps from forming. When it has turned golden, add the spinach paste and mix thoroughly. Now stir in the butter, then gradually add the cream, stirring well after each spoonful. Add the sugar and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Finish by crumbling in the fenugreek leaves and grating in the nutmeg. Do not cook for too long after adding the spinach paste, as it will discolour and render the dish unappetising in appearance.
Divide the spinach curry equally between 4 plates and sit the cooked vegetables on top. Serve with either rice or chapattis.
SPINACH DUMPLINGS AND LEMON RICE
This is a very good vegetarian main course, and easy enough to put together – an ideal dish that allows for better appreciation of colours, flavours and textures.
SERVES 4
For the dumplings
250g grated cottage cheese
2 large boiled potatoes, grated
100g spinach leaves washed, dried and shredded
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
3 green chillies, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ajowan seeds
For the batter coating
50g gram (chickpea) flour
¼ teaspoon ajowan
½ teaspoon salt
70ml water
150g spinach leaves cleaned, dried and shredded
oil for frying dumplings
For the sauce
6 large tomatoes
100ml water
1 garlic clove, crushed
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and crushed
3 lime leaves, torn
½ lemongrass stalk, outer layer removed and bruised
2 green cardamom pods
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
50ml coconut milk
¼ teaspoon Kadhai Masala
¼ teaspoon Garam Masala
½ tablespoon sugar
1 quantity of Lemon Rice
First make the dumplings. Mix in all the ingredients for the dumpling to form a smooth dough. Divide the mixture into 12 individual balls, the size of golf balls.
For the batter coating, make a smooth batter with the gram flour, ajowan, salt and water. Place the shredded spinach in a tray. Dip the balls in the batter and roll them in the spinach to form a good overall coating. The dumplings are now ready for frying. When you are ready to serve, deep-fry the dumplings at 180°C degrees for about 1½ minutes until crisp and golden green.
For the sauce, wash and cut the tomatoes in half, place them in a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat and, as they soften, pour in water, add the garlic, crushed ginger, lime leaves, lemongrass and the whole spices and boil until the tomatoes have disintegrated. Add the bay leaf, salt and red chilli powder and cook for a couple of minutes, then pass the tomatoes through a sieve to get a fine tomato purée.
Bring the purée back to the boil, add the coconut milk, stirring constantly and, when the sauce turns glossy, add the kadhai masala and sprinkle in the garam masala powder. Check the seasoning and add sugar if required (sugar helps to balance the sourness of the tomatoes).
Divide the rice between 4 serving plates and serve with the spinach dumplings and the sauce poured around.
ASSAMESE STIR-FRIED MUSHROOMS WITH EGG-FRIED-RICE PARCELS
A Chinese influence is evident in this vegetarian feast, but the most distinguishing feature of the dish is the thin omelettes we make to envelop the stir-fried rice. The mushrooms on their own are also good to pass round as a snack with drinks.
SERVES 4
700g shiitake, chestnut or closed-cup mushrooms, stems removed, but kept whole and washed and dried
oil for deep-frying
For the marinade
4 tablespoons cornflour
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon dried red chilli flakes
1 teaspoon salt
For the omelettes
4 eggs
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the egg-fried rice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
50g green beans, finely chopped
2 green chillies finely chopped
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
50g shelled peas, fresh or thawed, preferably petits pois (optional)
½ carrot, finely chopped (optional)
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon tomato ketchup
a pinch of salt
a pinch of ground black pepper
1 egg
250g basmati rice, boiled
2 tablespoons sesame oil
For the stir-fry
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 dried red chillies, broken into smaller pieces
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 red onions, chopped
100g tender bamboo shoots, sliced 5mm thick
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
2 spring onions, finely chopped
juice of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon chopped chives
First make the omelettes. Break the eggs into a bowl and beat them lightly with the soy sauce. Heat a few drops of oil in a large, non-stick frying pan and pour in one-quarter of the egg mixture. Cook, without stirring, on a medium-high heat until the omelette begins to set, then remove the pan from the heat (without turning the omelette over) and leave the omelette to finish cooking in the residual heat. Remove from the pan and make 3 more. Set aside and keep warm.
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl, add the mushrooms and set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the egg-fried-rice. Heat the oil in the frying pan, add the beans, chillies, ginger and the peas and carrot, if using, and stir-fry, on a high heat, for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce, ketchup, salt and pepper and stir-fry for another minute. Break the egg into the pan and scramble, on a high heat, for 30 seconds, then fold in the rice and sesame oil and stir until mixed well and heated through. Lay the omelettes on a work surface, divide the egg-fried rice between them and wrap each to make a neat parcel. Set aside and keep hot.
To deep-fry the mushrooms, heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 190°C. If necessary shake any excess liquid off the mushrooms before deep-frying for about 3 minutes, until they are crisp and golden. Drain well on kitchen paper.
For the stir-fry, heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan until smoking point. Add the dried red chillies and stir them quickly.
As they start to darken, quickly stir in the garlic. Almost immediately it will start to change colour. Now add the onions and the deep-fried mushrooms and stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Add the bamboo shoots and stir for another couple of minutes. Add the sugar, chilli powder, cumin and salt and stir-fry for another minute. Add the soy sauce and mix well. Finish with the lemon juice and sprinkle with the spring onions and chopped chives.
Serve immediately with the egg-fried-rice parcels.
Vivek’s tip
The secret of any stir-fry is that you should never let the heat in the pan go down; the heat of your burner should always be on maximum the whole time. Add an ingredient to the pan only when you think it’s hot enough.
Assamese Stir-Fried Mushrooms with Egg-Fried-Rice Parcels
STUFFED POTATOES, STUFFED COURGETTES AND YOGHURT KADHI SAUCE
This rather unusual trio of vegetarian dishes makes for an impressive main course. It might look like a long list of ingredients and appear daunting, but the result is well worth the effort. This yoghurt sauce is very versatile and can be thinned and used as a soup, too.
SERVES 4
oil for deep-frying
For the stuffed potatoes
4 Desiree potatoes, peeled and cut in half
125g paneer cheese, grated
25g salted cashew nuts, roasted in a dry frying pan and then crushed
1½ tablespoons raisins
½ teaspoon salt
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
For the stuffed courgettes
2 courgettes
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ onion, chopped
150g cauliflower, cut into small florets
2 tablespoons shelled peas, fresh or thawed (preferably petits pois)
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tomato, deseeded and finely chopped
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
juice of ½ lemon
Yoghurt Kadhi Sauce, to serve
First prepare the potatoes and courgettes. With an apple corer or a melon baller, carefully scoop out the centre of each potato half to make a hollow shell about 5mm thick, then set aside. Cut each courgette in half lengthways and use a small spoon to scoop out the centres, leaving hollow shells. Reserve the trimmings. Sprinkle the courgette shells with salt and set aside, upside down, to drain.
To fry the potatoes, heat enough oil for deep-frying to 170°C in a deep-fat fryer or a large, heavy-based saucepan. Add the potatoes and deep-fry for 6–8 minutes, until they are softened and cooked through, but not coloured. Remove them from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. Now heat the oil to 190°C and fry the potatoes again for 2–3 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Drain well on kitchen paper and leave to cool.
Mix together all the remaining ingredients for the stuffed potatoes. When the potatoes are cold, fill them with the stuffing and set aside.
Next, prepare the courgettes. Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan. Add the courgettes and fry on a high heat for 1 minute or so, until crisp and light golden brown. Drain them on kitchen paper and leave to cool.
Heat the 1 tablespoon oil to smoking point in a heavy-based frying pan and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the onion and sauté for 4–6 minutes until translucent. Add the cauliflower florets and cook for 3 minutes. When they start to soften, add the green peas, the reserved courgette trimmings, salt, chilli powder, cumin and turmeric and sauté for a couple of minutes. Reduce the heat to the minimum and let the vegetables cook uncovered in their own juices for about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, sprinkle with garam masala and finish with fresh coriander and lemon juice. Use a spoon to divide the vegetables between the courgette shells.
Put the stuffed potatoes and courgettes on a baking tray and transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 6–8 minutes, until the potatoes and the filling are hot.
Divide the potatoes and courgettes between 4 serving plates and serve with pilau rice and the yoghurt kadhi sauce.
Vivek’s tip
Both the stuffed potatoes and courgettes can be served as individual main courses and they work just as well with either the Yoghurt Kadhai Sauce, or the Fenugreek Sauce.
TANDOORI STYLE PANEER, TOMATO FENUGREEK SAUCE
The paneer element of this dish is particularly good grilled on a barbecue. The smokiness of barbecue cooking is reminiscent of the tandoor. I find that vegetarians are especially thankful to see this at a barbecue party as it gives them at least one proper vegetarian option!
SERVES 4
750g paneer cut into discs, 4cm diameter × ½cm thickness
For the marinade
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons red chilli powder
2 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
250g plain yoghurt
1½ teaspoons salt
juice of 1 lemon
For the tomato and fenugreek sauce
12 very ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
3 garlic cloves, peeled
5cm piece of fresh ginger, half crushed and half chopped finely
3 cloves
3 green cardamom pods
250ml water
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
60g unsalted butter
2 green chillies, finely chopped
½ teaspoon Garam Masala
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
4 tablespoons single cream
1½ teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon finely chopped coriander leaves and stalks
Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl, add the paneer pieces and mix well. Thread the paneer on to metal or soaked bamboo skewers and place in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the tomatoes, bay leaves, garlic, ginger, cloves, cardamom and water in a pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20 minutes until the tomatoes have disintegrated, then remove the bay leaves and leave to cool. Purée the mixture in a blender and then pass it through a sieve. Bring the sauce to the boil in a clean pan, add the red chilli powder and simmer on a low heat for 6–8 minutes until it is quite thick and it coats the back of a spoon. Now add the butter and green chillies and cook for 6–7 minutes over a low heat, stirring constantly so the butter does not split. Add the garam masala and fenugreek and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add the chopped ginger and gradually stir in the cream. Simmer, stirring constantly, until the sauce becomes thick and glossy. Adjust the seasoning by adding salt and sugar, then finish with the coriander stalks. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Place the paneer skewers on a medium-hot barbecue and cook for 4–5 minutes on each side, until coloured on both sides (or you could cook them under a hot grill). Pour the sauce over the barbecued paneer and serve with naan bread.
HYDERABADI BIRYANI OF VEGETABLES IN A PUMPKIN SHELL
This version of a Hyderabadi biryani is, suitable for entertaining large numbers and the perfect one-pot meal. It would make an excellent alternative to a Christmas roast or could be served as a side dish. Assorted vegetables are cooked with rice and baked inside a pumpkin shell until steaming hot. When the lid is removed at the table, aromas of rose water, saffron and other spices fill the room – so make sure all of your guests are seated, ready to be impressed!
SERVES 4–6 AS A MAIN COURSE; 8–10 AS VEGETABLE ACCOMPANIMENT
1 large pumpkin, top removed and reserved, with the inside scraped out to remove all the seeds and fibres
100g tamarind paste
1 tablespoon dried red chilli flakes
250g basmati rice
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons warm milk
a pinch of saffron strands
4 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons rose water or screwpine essence
50g snow peas or thin green beans
75g all-butter puff pastry, thawed if frozen, and cut to cover the top of the pumpkin and rolled to 4–5mm thickness (optional)
1 egg, beaten, to glaze
For the vegetable filling
200g chunky meaty mushrooms of your choice, trimmed and sliced
10 thin green beans, cut into 1cm pieces
2 Jerusalem artichokes, cut into 1cm dice and moistened with lemon juice
1 carrot, cut into 1cm dice
½ swede, cut into 1cm dice
½ turnip, cut into 1cm dice
½ orange-fleshed sweet potato, cut into 1cm dice
¼ celeriac, cut into 1cm dice
For the marinade
150g plain yoghurt
75ml single cream
6 green chillies, slit lengthways
2 onions, sliced and deep-fried until golden
½ bunch of fresh coriander, chopped
2 tablespoons Ginger and Garlic Paste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
⅛ nutmeg, grated
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
leaves from 1 small bunch of mint, chopped
Spices for boiling
3 litres of water
4 cloves
3 green cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
2 blades of mace
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
3 tablespoons salt
Smear the inside of the pumpkin with the tamarind paste, sprinkle with the chilli flakes, place on a rack and roast in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for about 25 minutes, until almost tender, but firmly holding its shape.
Meanwhile, soak the rice in cold water for about 10 minutes, then drain.
Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade in a flameproof casserole, but include only half the mint, then stir in the vegetables for the filling and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the water and remaining ingredients for the boiling spices in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the drained rice and boil, uncovered, for 6–8 minutes, until the rice is not quite cooked. Drain well.
Put the warm milk and saffron in a bowl and leave for 3–5 minutes to infuse. Stir in the ghee and rose water or screwpine essence and set aside.
After the vegetables have marinated, put the casserole on a low heat and simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly until the vegetable are about half cooked.
Layer the rice over the simmering vegetables, pour over the saffron mixture and sprinkle with the remaining mint. Cover tightly, increase the heat to high and leave to cook for 5–7 minutes to let steam build up. As soon as the steam starts escaping from the pot, reduce the heat to low and cook for another 8–10 minutes. Remove the casserole from the heat and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
Transfer the biryani to the pumpkin shell, sprinkle with snow peas or beans and cover either with the reserved pumpkin top or with puff pastry, brushed with beaten egg. Place on a baking tray and roast in a preheated oven at 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 15 minutes, or until the pastry (if using) is crisp and golden.
Vivek’s tips
If you don’t want to bother with the pumpkin shell, prepare the vegetable biryani as described above, leaving it in the casserole and serve it after it has rested for 5 minutes after coming out of the oven.
You can make a dough seal if your casserole lid isn’t tight fitting. Mix together 250g plain white flour and 125ml water. Stretch the dough into a thin strip, long enough to cover the edge of the lid all the way round. Stick the dough on the edge of the lid and place it on the casserole, pressing lightly to make sure the gap is well sealed.
CHAR-GRILLED BROCCOLI FLORETS, STUFFED BABY PEPPERS AND TANDOORI PANEER
This is actually quite a restaurant-style vegetarian dish which you can easily recreate at home with a little bit of planning. The three different elements bring colour, flavour and texture and create a great ‘wow!’ factor at a dinner party. It’s well worth the effort, so do give it a go.
SERVES 4
1 tablespoon grated Cheddar cheese
25g Greek yoghurt
1 tablespoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tablespoon single cream
1 teaspoon dried rose petals
½ teaspoon Mace and Cardamom Powder
1 head of broccoli or two stalks of purple sprouting broccoli, cut into florets, blanched in salted water for 30 seconds, drained and refreshed in iced water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon flaked almonds
juice of ½ lemon
For the baby peppers
4 baby red peppers
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
⅓ cabbage, finely shredded
1 tablespoon sultanas
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
For the Tandoori Paneer
1 teaspoon oil
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon Ginger and Garlic Paste
1 teaspoon salt
juice of ½ lemon
30g Greek yoghurt
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
½ teaspoon sugar
250g paneer cheese, cut into 4 × 1cm thick slices
First prepare the broccoli. In a bowl, rub the cheese with your fingertips to break up any lumps. Add the yoghurt and mix until smooth. Add the ginger and garlic paste, salt, the chopped ginger and chillies and mix well, then fold in the cream carefully, as the mixture might separate if mixed too vigorously. Finally add the rose petals, mace and cardamom powder and then fold in the broccoli florets. Gently drizzle with a tablespoon of oil, mix everything together, cover and set aside for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, put 4 bamboo skewers in water and leave them to soak for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile cut the baby peppers about ½ cm from the stem end, discard the seeds, but leave whole. Heat ½ tablespoon of oil in a small frying pan on a medium-high heat and sear the peppers for a minute until they slightly char on the outside but still firmly hold their shape. Allow them to cool.
Now prepare the stuffing. In the same pan heat the remaining ½ tablespoon of oil to smoking point and add the cumin seeds.
When they start to crackle add the onion and cook on a medium heat for 2–3 minutes until shiny, but still crunchy. Add the salt, ground turmeric, ginger and chillies and cook for another minute. Now add the cabbage, stirring continuously. Reduce the heat and cook for 3–4 minutes, until the cabbage is soft. Finally add the raisins and coriander. Adjust the seasoning and stuff the blanched peppers with the cabbage mixture. Set aside and keep warm in a low oven.
For the tandoori paneer, mix all the ingredients apart from the cheese in a mixing bowl to make a marinade. Fold in the sliced paneer and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.
To cook the broccoli, thread the florets on to the soaked bamboo skewers, arrange on an oiled baking tray and place under a hot grill for 5–6 minutes, until the broccoli florets are cooked and slightly charred at the edges. Now sprinkle with the almond flakes and return to the grill to toast for another minute or so until golden brown.
To serve, divide the paneer slices between 4 serving plates. Arrange the broccoli and peppers on the paneer and serve with the spinach sauce poured to the side.
Char-Grilled Broccoli Florets, Stuffed Baby Peppers and Tandoori Paneer
A kadhai is a double-eared Indian wok made of iron. It is different from a Chinese wok, as it does not have a handle and is considerably heavier. Kadhais have a variety of uses in Indian homes. They are used to deep-fry breads and sweets, to make ‘dry’ curries with coating sauces and to stir-fry vegetables and small pieces of poultry, too. Dishes prepared in a kadhai are traditionally finished with a coarsely ground blend of spices, such as coriander, cumin and fennel seeds, dried red chillies and black peppercorns. You will find many references to kadhai spice mixtures throughout this book and a useful basic recipe for kadhai masala.
SERVES 4–6
For the kadhai sauce
7 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 dried red chillies
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
2 onions, finely chopped
750g fresh tomatoes, finely chopped
3 green chillies, finely chopped
5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves, crushed with your fingertips
1 teaspoon Garam Masala
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
For the stir-fry
1 tablespoon ghee or vegetable oil
2 red and/or green peppers, deseeded and cut into 1cm × 3cm pieces
1 red onion, thickly sliced
1 teaspoon dried red chilli flakes
600g paneer cheese, cut into 1cm × 1cm × 3cm pieces
1 tablespoon Kadhai Masala
a pinch of salt (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
½ teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves, crushed between your fingertips
juice of 1 lemon
To make the kadhai sauce, heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir. When it starts to colour, stir in the dried chillies and coriander seeds. As they start to release their aromas, add the onion and stir on a medium-high heat for 4–6 minutes, until it is translucent. Now add the tomatoes, green chillies and ginger, reduce heat and cook until all the moisture has evaporated and the fat starts to separate. Add the salt, fenugreek leaves and garam masala and stir. Add the sugar if needed.
For the stir-fry, heat the ghee to smoking point in a large kadhai, wok or heavy-based frying pan. Add the peppers, red onion and chilli flakes and stir-fry on a high heat for less than 1 minute. Add the paneer and stir for another minute. Add the sauce and mix well. Once the dish is heated through, add the kadhai masala and check for seasoning; add a pinch of salt, if required. Finish with fresh coriander, dried fenugreek leaves and lemon juice, and serve with naan bread.
Vivek’s tip
If you want to get ahead, the sauce can be cooled and stored in the fridge for up to a week. It also goes well with sliced chicken, fish or prawns and mixed vegetables.
KEDGEREE WITH PICKLED CAULIFLOWER AND PEAS
Kedgeree, or khichri as it is known in India, is a humble dish perfectly suited to cold, rainy days. When it is combined with sharp, crunchy, caramelised, spicy cauliflower, there is a fascinating interaction of textures and flavours.
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black onion seeds
½ cauliflower head, broken into small florets
2 tablespoons of white vinegar or cider vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon sugar
a pinch of ground turmeric
50g fresh coriander leaves and stalks, chopped
150g shelled peas, fresh or thawed (preferably petits pois)
juice of 1 lemon
For the kedgeree
100g split yellow moong lentils, rinsed
400ml water
a pinch of ground turmeric
3 tablespoons ghee or vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 large onion, chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
1cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1½ teaspoons salt
75g basmati rice, boiled
1 tomato, deseeded and cut into 1cm dice
2 tablespoons sprouted green moong lentils
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves and stalks
juice of 1 lemon
To make the kedgeree, wash the yellow moong lentils, put them in a pan with the water and turmeric and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 20 minutes, until the lentils are tender and all the water has evaporated. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the ghee to smoking point in a heavy-based frying pan on a medium-high heat and add the cumin seeds and, when they crackle, add the garlic. When the garlic turns golden, add the onion and sauté for 4–6 minutes until it is translucent, then stir in the chillies and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the cooked yellow moong lentils and salt, then fold in the cooked rice. Add the tomato, sprouted green moong lentils and fresh coriander and stir, on a low heat, for 3–4 minutes. Finish by adding the remaining tablespoon of ghee and the lemon juice. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
To make the pickled cauliflower and peas, heat the oil until smoking point in a heavy-based frying pan and add the cumin seeds. When they crackle, add the chillies, ginger and fennel and onion seeds, then add the cauliflower and stir-fry on a high heat, for a couple of minutes, until slightly crisp and brown on the edges, but still crunchy inside. Add the vinegar, salt, sugar and turmeric and stir to mix. Cover with a lid, reduce heat and leave the cauliflower to cook in its own steam for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the coriander and peas and cook, uncovered, for 2–3 minutes. Finish with the lemon juice.
Divide the kedgeree between 4 serving plates and serve with the pickled cauliflower and peas on top.
CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI STIR-FRY
This dish was inspired by a traditional Karnataka-style stir-fry, also known as ‘kempu’ in the local dialect. It’s usually made with chicken, but this is a great little number for vegetarians. Purple sprouting broccoli and bok choy also make very good additions to this versatile dish.
SERVES 4
oil for deep-frying
1 head of broccoli, broken into florets
1 head of cauliflower, broken into florets
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 fresh curry leaves
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 red onion, chopped
2 green chillies, slit lengthways
1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into 1cm dice
1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into small dice
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
juice of ½ lemon
a few fresh coriander leaves
For the batter
300g cornflour
150ml white vinegar
2 teaspoons red chilli powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and ground
1 teaspoon salt
Firstly, put the cornflour in a bowl, then stir in the remaining ingredients to make a thick batter. Set aside.
Heat the oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or a deep, heavy-based saucepan. Dip the broccoli and cauliflower florets in the batter, letting the excess drip off, and deep-fry for about 3 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Transfer to kitchen paper to drain and keep hot.
Heat the oil in a large kadhai, wok or heavy-based frying pan until smoking point. Add the curry leaves and garlic, onion, chillies and peppers and stir-fry on a high heat for 2 minutes. Add the fried broccoli and cauliflower, ginger, salt and sugar and continue stir-frying for 2 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon juice and sprinkle with the fresh coriander. Serve with steamed rice.
Vivek’s tip
If you prefer a non-vegetarian dish, substitute either chicken or any firm white fish for the cauliflower and broccoli.
