Grains of the Fertile Crescent
Drying newly threshed wheat in the sun in Bogazkale, central Turkey
Our bus travels north from the city of Urfa through wheat fields along the western edge of the Fertile Crescent bordered by the Euphrates River. In the water-rich highlands of Anatolia, blessed with abundant rainfall, the earliest forms of wheat were domesticated along with pulses including peas, chickpeas and lentils.
We are on our way to the city of Van near the Iranian border, and to Mount Ararat where, according to the book of Genesis, the remains of Noah’s ark lie buried beneath the snow. As the horizon undulates in tawny drifts, we think of the world’s first communities who settled in this fertile land, harvesting and drying the seeds of many grasses. They turned those seeds into long-lasting, nutritious staples like bulgur and ground grain to be pressed into flatbreads made of water and flour. We further imagine how wheat traveled east across central Asia to China and back again, the basic combination of flour and water becoming pasta. When cut, filled, shaped and simmered in broth, that pasta (or makarna, in Turkish) becomes one of our all-time favorite dishes, the iconic dumplings called manti (shown here).
Another treasured Anatolian grain, rice—cooked into pilafs with lentils, peas and other legumes—was first cultivated in China and came with traders along the Silk Road to find a home in what was then Persia, as well as across the Arabian Sea to the Middle East. In fact, the Turkish word pilav comes from the Persian polow, and we’ve included a classic pilaf made with saffron, giving it a Turkish twist with the addition of chickpeas and mint (shown here).
There is a Turkish proverb that says, “No grain moves without a wind,” but it’s also true that great dishes move along trade routes in the minds, hearts and able hands of dedicated cooks, and they enter our cultures when we sit down and eat together.
◁ Baked Spinach, Goat Cheese and Walnut Manti
MAKES ABOUT 100 SMALL DUMPLINGS, SERVING 8 TO 10
Long before Italian nonnas were pressing pasta dough into ravioli, the Uyghur Turks of central Asia were filling squares of thinly rolled wheat dough with spiced minced lamb or soft cheese to make the beloved dumplings called manti. The Turkish version is served with a spoonful of yogurt and a drizzle of melted butter swirled with Aleppo pepper.
While it is tempting (and possible) to substitute wonton or spring roll wrappers as we do in Weeknight Lamb Manti, nothing compares to the real thing made with freshly rolled egg dough. This is a fun dish to make with friends who can share the rolling, cutting and shaping of the pasta packets as well as the enjoyment at the table. The result is well worth the effort.
There are as many fillings for manti as there are cooks. Well-seasoned ground lamb is classic, but the spinach, goat cheese and walnut filling we use here is also deeply savory, as is the spicy chickpea variation that follows. This recipe makes enough dough and sauce for one of the fillings. To make both fillings, double the recipes for the dough and the sauce.
FOR THE FILLING
2 pounds (910 g) spinach, steamed and chopped (about 21/2 cups / 390 g cooked)
1/2 cup (55 g) crumbled goat cheese
1/2 cup (60 g) finely chopped toasted walnuts
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE YOGURT TOPPING
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup (240 ml) Greek yogurt
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (330 g) or 1 (16-ounce / 454 g) can crushed plum tomatoes, with their juice
1 recipe Egg Pasta Dough
1/2 cup (120 ml) warm water
2 cups (473 ml) hot vegetable stock
1/2 cup (18 g) chopped parsley, for garnish
1/2 cup (20 g) chopped cilantro, for garnish
FILLING VARIATION
To make manti with chickpea and Aleppo pepper filling, combine
3 cups (600 g) cooked chickpeas,
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper,
2 teaspoons ground cumin and 2 teaspoons olive oil in a medium bowl and mash by hand with a fork or pulse in a food processor into a coarse paste. Add kosher salt to taste and proceed with the recipe.
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Oil an ovenproof 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-cm) baking dish or lasagna pan.
Make the filling: Squeeze the spinach to remove excess moisture and put in a bowl. Add the goat cheese, walnuts, nutmeg and pepper. Mix the ingredients until thoroughly combined. Taste to adjust seasonings and set aside.
Make the yogurt topping: Mash the garlic as finely as possible. Alternatively, put the cloves through a garlic press, or grate them on a fine grater. In a small bowl, blend the yogurt with the garlic, cover and keep it in a cool place until ready to serve.
Make the tomato sauce: In a medium skillet over low heat, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the garlic, onions and jalapeño, if using. Sauté for 5 minutes, until the onions soften slightly. Add the mint, salt and pepper and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes and cook over medium heat until the mixture bubbles. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens. Keep the tomato sauce warm.
Make the manti: Put the pasta dough on a floured surface and divide it into thirds, keeping the unused pieces covered with a clean kitchen towel. Roll the first piece of dough into a rectangle about 1/8-inch (3-mm) thick. Cut the dough into approximately 2 by 2-inch (5 by 5-cm) squares. Set the warm water in a small bowl nearby.
Spoon 1/2 teaspoon of the filling into the center of each manti square. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, moisten the edges with the water. Seal the packets by pressing all 4 corners up and over the filling, pinching them closed along the seams and at the center. Each manti will look like a pyramid. Continue filling the packets until all the dough has been used. There will be approximately 100 packets. The manti can be frozen at this point (see Note).
Place the manti close together, side by side, in the prepared baking pan. If necessary, use an additional pan. If the manti don't fill the pan, simply place them as close together as possible. Put the pan(s) in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, uncovered, until the manti are golden brown.
While the manti bake, bring the vegetable stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, then remove from the heat.
Pour the warm stock into the baking pan to cover the manti halfway, ensuring that the manti are not fully submerged in the stock. Return the pan to the oven and bake the manti for 15 minutes more until the stock is almost completely absorbed. The tops will be crisp and golden brown.
Spoon the warm tomato sauce on a serving platter with a high rim. Transfer the baked manti to the platter, placing them evenly over the sauce. Dollop the yogurt sauce over the manti and garnish with the parsley and cilantro.
Note: To freeze the manti, place them in a single layer on a tray or plate and place in the freezer. When the manti are frozen, transfer them to a freezer storage bag. The manti can be frozen for up to 3 months. To bake, put in a single layer in a prepared baking dish. Let the manti thaw for 1 hour or until they come to room temperature. Bake as described in the recipe.
Forming manti is a skill passed down from one generation to the next.
Egg Pasta Dough
MAKES ABOUT 1 POUND (454 g) OF FRESH PASTA
In the Midwest United States, we grew up eating homemade egg noodles in soups and with gravy. Our first taste of Turkish manti made us realize how much wider the world of homemade pasta really is. This recipe includes a bit of olive oil to give the pasta a firm bite on its own and an excellent texture when making Baked Spinach, Goat Cheese and Walnut Manti.
22/3 cups (330 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil
To make the dough in a stand mixer, fit it with a dough hook and add the flour, eggs and olive oil to the work bowl. On low speed, mix until the dough forms a pale yellow ball. If using a food processor, pulse until the dough gathers into a ball. For both the mixer and processor, make sure all ingredients are incorporated and continue mixing for about 8 minutes until the dough becomes elastic.
To make the dough by hand, put the flour in a bowl or on a work surface and make a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well and add the olive oil. With a fork or by hand, incorporate the flour into the egg mixture until the dough gathers together. Lightly flour a work surface. Gather the dough and knead it on the work surface for 8 minutes until the dough becomes elastic.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest for 1 hour at room temperature. Once rested, the dough is ready for use in a pasta machine, or to be rolled by hand for making manti.
◁ Weeknight Lamb Manti
MAKES 36 MANTI
Several years ago, while researching our memoir, Anatolian Days & Nights, we stopped to have lunch with our friends Humyera and Rasim. Highly regarded writers and artists, both are excellent, generous Turkish cooks, but given their hectic schedules they have become adept at simplifying the traditional dishes they love to eat.
On that warm afternoon, Humyera made her delicious lamb manti, replacing labor-intensive fresh pasta with readily available wonton wrappers, which made an excellent substitute. The resilient dough makes these manti easy to cook in simmering water on the stovetop. While nothing compares to manti made with fresh pasta, when we’re pressed for time, we no longer have to go without one of our favorite treats. Feel free to substitute ground beef or ground turkey for the lamb.
FOR THE FILLING
1 medium onion
1 pound (454 g) ground lamb
1 teaspoon minced parsley
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE YOGURT SAUCE
1 cup (240 ml) plain yogurt
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
FOR THE BUTTER SAUCE
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika plus 1/4 teaspoon hot paprika
FOR THE MANTI
1/2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water
1 (12-ounce / 340-g) package square wonton wrappers
1 teaspoon dried mint, for garnish (optional)
Line a baking sheet with parchment or brush it lightly with oil.
Make the meat filling: Grate the onion into a medium bowl using a box grater, making sure to capture all the juices. Add the lamb, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly to combine.
Make the yogurt sauce: In a small saucepan, mix the yogurt and garlic. Gently heat to just below a simmer. Keep warm.
Make the butter sauce: In another small saucepan, melt the butter and swirl in the Aleppo pepper until the butter takes on a brick-red hue. Keep warm.
Set the water in a shallow bowl near the baking sheet. Unwrap the wonton wrappers and cover them with a clean kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out while you work. On a clean surface, lay out a few of the wonton sheets.
Spoon 1 teaspoon of filling into the center of each wonton square and moisten the edges with the water. Pull the 4 corners of the wrapper up and over the filling. Press the edges together by pinching them closed along the seams up toward the center. Each manti will look like a pyramid.
Repeat with all the wonton wrappers, setting the finished packets on the baking sheet to dry slightly. Manti can be frozen for up to 1 month at this point.
To cook the manti, bring a large pot of water to boil. Slip the dumplings into the water in batches of 8 to 12. Bring the water back to a boil and lower to a vigorous simmer; cook for 9 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl or platter and cover the manti loosely to keep them warm. Repeat with remaining dumplings.
To serve, pour the warm yogurt sauce over the manti. Drizzle the warm butter sauce over the yogurt. Sprinkle with the dried mint if desired and serve.
Mesopotamian Mac and Cheese
SERVES 6 TO 8
Mardin’s limestone houses wind up and around a steep hillside like pearls threaded along a strand. On this particular late morning, after climbing nearly to the top, we caught our breath, entered a courtyard where a goat was munching on weeds while tethered to an iron bed frame and knocked on an ancient wooden door with a well-worn brass handle. An old woman welcomed us into her studio, her eyes appearing to be twice their actual size thanks to bottle-thick glasses.
An expert at painting religious folk-art designs on cloth, she showed us a series of images; the one that caught our fancy was a mermaid saint with tapered brown eyes, yellow flowing hair and a vermillion scaled tail: Atargatis, the great river goddess of Mesopotamia. But what also caught our attention were the hundreds of noodles, each the width of a pencil, drying on a wooden table and four chairs in the center of her studio.
Later, she invited us for lunch in the studio kitchen, dominated by a black cast-iron stove, and served us eriste, a Turkish dish with central Asian and Persian roots. She had baked the noodles in a creamy sauce, pungent with milk and cheese from the goat in the courtyard, and served it with glasses of mint tea.
We’ve created a milder version, giving an Anatolian twist to a childhood favorite. Elbow macaroni are enriched with feta and fontina in a rich béchamel, with crunch from an herbed breadcrumb and hazelnut topping. We like to serve this with Shepherd’s Salad.
6 tablespoons (85 g) butter, divided, plus more for buttering the baking dish
3/4 pound (240 g) elbow noodles
1/2 cup (50 g) breadcrumbs, or 2 slices of slightly stale bread processed into crumbs
1/4 cup (20 g) ground hazelnuts or walnuts
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
11/2 teaspoons white pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups (473 ml) milk
8 ounces (220 g) shredded fontina cheese
8 ounces (220 g) crumbled feta cheese
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9 by 9-inch (23 by 23-cm) baking dish.
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Add the elbow noodles and cook according to package directions, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and return to the cooking pot.
Put the breadcrumbs in a food processor. Add the nuts, parsley, chives and 2 tablespoons of the butter. Pulse 2 or 3 times to combine. Set the mixture aside.
Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat in a heavy saucepan. Gradually add the flour, stirring to form a roux. Do not let the butter brown. Add the pepper and salt and slowly whisk in the milk until heated but not boiling. With a spoon, stir in the fontina cheese until melted, then stir in the feta until it melts.
Remove from the heat and slowly pour the cheese sauce over the noodles, mixing to combine.
Pour the macaroni into the prepared baking dish and cover evenly with the breadcrumb topping. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the cheese mixture is bubbling and the topping is browned. Let the dish rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Armenian Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf
SERVES 4
At the beginning of the twentieth century, in the twilight of the Ottoman Empire, Turkey’s Armenian population was forced to flee. A community of refugees, including Pailadzo Captanian, relocated to America and settled in San Francisco. In their adopted country, they continued to cook traditional Armenian dishes. When Captanian shared her recipe for a simple but pleasing pilaf of rice and thin pasta with her neighbors Tom and Lois DeDomenico (who happened to own a pasta company), the legendary “San Francisco treat” was born. The original inspiration for what was packaged as Rice-a-Roni is an elegant, comforting dish with roots in eastern Anatolia.
Serve this pilaf as a side dish with lamb chops, grilled chicken or any meat or vegetable kebab.
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup (50 g) angel hair (vermicelli) or thin spaghetti broken into 1/4-inch (6-mm) pieces
1 cup (180 g) basmati rice
21/2 cups (591 ml) chicken stock or water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. When the butter begins to foam, add the vermicelli and stir until the noodles turn golden brown, releasing a nutty aroma. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute or until the rice becomes translucent.
Add the stock and salt to the rice and pasta, stir to combine and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the pot. Cook for 20 minutes without opening the lid.
After 20 minutes, check to see that the rice and pasta have absorbed all the liquid. If not, cook 1 or 2 minutes more, making sure that the pilaf doesn’t burn. Remove from the heat and drain any excess water. Let it rest for a few minutes before serving.
Saffron Rice Pilaf with Chickpeas and Mint
SERVES 4
Inexpensive and easy to prepare, pilafs with chickpeas provide complete vegetarian protein. We’ve elevated this pilaf with saffron for golden color and subtle flavor. For a colorful, delicious meal, serve with Cumin-Scented Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Thyme and Mrs. Karaaslan’s Beets.
1/8 teaspoon saffron
1/2 cup (120 ml) boiling water
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 cup (180 g) basmati rice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 cups (354 ml) water
3/4 cup (165 g) cooked or canned chickpeas, drained
1 tablespoon fresh mint, or 1 teaspoon dried mint
Place the saffron in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Set aside to steep for 10 minutes then strain, reserving the steeping liquid and discarding the saffron.
Over low heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a medium heavy pan. Add the rice and stir to coat with the butter. Add the saffron water, salt and 11/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, stir and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for 20 minutes or until all the liquid has been absorbed and tiny holes form on the surface of the rice.
Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter over low heat in a small saucepan. Add the chickpeas and heat just until they are warm and evenly coated with the butter. Stir the chickpeas and butter into the rice. Add the mint and serve.
◁ Bulgur Pilaf with Fresh Herbs
SERVES 4 TO 6
With the first bite of this verdant pilaf we knew it would become a staple in our kitchens at home. In a class at the Culinary Institute in Istanbul, our teacher had artfully arranged a bouquet of mint, parsley, basil and dill in a tall glass and placed it in the middle of her demonstration table. She handed out knives and showed us how to stack the leaves into neat bundles, roll them lengthwise then chop them into a fine chiffonade. Then she showered them over a pot of steaming bulgur and their alluring aroma filled the room. No wonder we were smitten with this elemental dish.
Whole-grain bulgur, parboiled and dried, has been a staple in the Middle and Near East for six thousand years. It travels and stores well, and we can imagine camel caravans transporting sacks of it along trade routes. Bulgur also cooks quickly. We often serve this pilaf topped with Yogurt Dip with Cucumber and Mint and Tomato and Walnut Salad with Pomegranate Molasses, for a light vegetarian supper. It is also compatible with Cumin-Scented Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Thyme and Mrs. Karaaslan’s Beets. For the gluten intolerant, the recipe works perfectly with rice in place of bulgur (see Variation).
5 tablespoons (75 g) butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (140 g) medium coarse bulgur
2 cups (473 ml) boiling water
1 tablespoon chopped mint
1 tablespoon chopped dill
1 tablespoon chopped basil
VARIATION
Rice Pilaf with Fresh Herbs
Following the instructions at right, sauté the onion in 3 tablespoons butter, then add 1 cup (180 g) basmati rice and 2 cups (473 ml) boiling water. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes before adding the herbs. Set aside, covered, to rest for 15 minutes before serving.
In a medium pot over moderate heat, melt the butter. Add the onions and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the salt.
Add the bulgur and stir to coat the grains completely with the butter. Remove the pan from the heat. Pour in the boiling water, cover with a lid and set aside for 15 minutes. When tiny holes form at the top of the bulgur, it’s ready for the herbs.
Gently fold the mint, dill and basil into the bulgur. Place a clean tea towel or paper towel over the pot and replace the lid; the towel will absorb any excess moisture. Set the pilaf aside, covered, to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
◁ Tender Green Lentils with Orzo and Caramelized Onions
SERVES 6
Sweet, mellow onions slow-cooked to caramelization with cumin and cinnamon are the basis of this immensely satisfying dish. Lentils were one of the world’s first domesticated crops and, according to archeological evidence, humans have been eating them for more than ten thousand years. In Turkey we would make this with the common large green lentil, but here at but here in the States we go for the small French variety, which hold their shape nicely. Serve with your favorite köfte or chicken dish, or on its own as a vegetarian main course.
1 cup (200 g) French green lentils, rinsed and checked for stones
4 cups (946 ml) water, divided
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 medium sweet onions, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (210 g) orzo
1/4 cup (35 g) toasted pine nuts, for garnish
1 teaspoon chopped rind from a preserved lemon, or 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh lemon zest
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Put the lentils in a medium saucepan with 2 cups (473 ml) water and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, stir once and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, until the lentils are tender but not mushy. Drain any excess water.
While the lentils cook, combine the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the cumin and cinnamon and cook, stirring, for 1 minute until the spices release their fragrance. Add the onions and stir to coat with the spice mixture. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions caramelize to dark brown.
Put 2 cups (473 ml) water and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring the water to a boil and add the orzo. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer, uncovered, for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain.
Put the pine nuts in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes or just until they begin to toast. Transfer the nuts to a small bowl and add the preserved lemons and parsley.
To finish the dish, stir the lentils and orzo into the pan with the caramelized onions and set over low heat until the mixture is warm but not hot. Taste to adjust seasonings. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the pine nut mixture.