In Search of Something Delicious
Produce vendor at rest in Balat, Istanbul’s Jewish quarter since the Byzantine era
Turkey’s first eating establishments were in caravansaries built a day’s journey apart along the Silk Road, providing traders, pilgrims and travelers a place to rest, mingle and eat a restorative meal.
While there’s been a long tradition of eateries catering to a noonday workforce, until recently most evening meals were eaten at home where everyone knew that mothers and grandmothers made the best food. We’ve gathered several recipes from them, including Mrs. Karaaslan’s Beets, a simple, pleasing side dish or meze.
We love returning to Turkey for the food scene. While the categories of eating establishments can be confusing, once you know what each restaurant serves, your biggest challenge will be trying them all. In Turkey, locantas, or locandas (inns) are small restaurants with curated menus that serve a variety of dishes including fish, meat, vegetables and soups, especially at lunch. Hazır yemek (ready food) restaurants offer an array of prepared dishes such as Traditional Turkish Green Beans slow-cooked in olive oil.
Balıkçısı (fish restaurants), their glass cases displaying fresh-caught barbunya, bluefish and shellfish, also have delicious sides to accompany the fish, including the inevitable but irresistible crisp potatoes (shown here) fried in sunflower or olive oil and seasoned with herbs. Meyhanes (from the Persian for wine house) are traditional tavern-like restaurants, serving wine, rakı and beer with meze and other dishes.
Kebapcesi (kebab restaurants) don’t serve alcohol, so along with chicken or lamb kebabs (shown here and here), we order a glass of cold yogurt-based ayran (shown here), a tangy, cool counterpoint to the often-spicy meat.
At times we splurge on lunch or dinner at restaurants like Matbah in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul. It features authentic Ottoman dishes, some complex and others simple and elegant, like Sautéed Spinach with Yogurt and Paprika Oil.
And when in doubt, we eat from the food carts selling everything from pilafs to freshly dipped colorful candy on a stick that hardens before our eyes and gives a jolt of sugary pleasure as we contemplate our next meal.
◁ Traditional Turkish Green Beans
SERVES 6
Throughout Turkey, you will find green beans slow-cooked in olive oil and lemon juice in cafés, bus station restaurants and on home dinner tables. We’ve spent summer afternoons in a small village, gathered around a wooden table with the local women, stringing mounds of beans to go into a large communal pot for evening meals.
Unlike recipes that call for sautéing or steaming vegetables, these beans are cooked until they are very soft but not mushy. The key is to cook them in olive oil and add plenty of water. The beans can be served warm, at room temperature or even cold, and are traditionally offered as a separate course after the main dish and before dessert. They may be prepared up to a day ahead and brought to room temperature before serving.
3/4 cup (85 g) coarsely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped, or 1 (15-ounce / 425-g) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 pound (454 g) green beans, trimmed and sliced in half lengthwise
1 cup (236 ml) olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
In a medium pot, layer one-third of the onions, garlic, tomatoes and green beans, beginning with the onions and ending with the green beans. Repeat for 3 layers, ending with green beans on top.
Pour the olive oil over the vegetables. Add 1 cup (236 ml) water, the lemon juice, sugar and salt. Do not stir.
Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 to 45 minutes, until the beans are tender but not mushy. Remove from the heat.
When the beans have cooled, drain off the liquid to prevent them from becoming mushy and transfer to a serving dish. Serve at room temperature.
Carrots with Whipped Feta and Preserved Lemon
SERVES 6
Most food historians agree that the wild carrot was first cultivated in the Himalaya-Hindu Kush region of Kashmir, Afghanistan and Turkestan in the second millennium BCE. Unlike the bright, sweet orange vegetable common today, these early carrots were a white or blackish purple and slightly bitter. It’s commonly held that the enterprising, plant-breeding Dutch cultivated the orange carrot resembling the sweeter varieties familiar to us today.
There are many Turkish dishes that feature carrots, such as a traditional meze of shredded raw carrots with yogurt. Our recipe is a little different, but no less delectable. Serve with Aegean Tuna Steak with Thyme and Oregano and Aegean Oven-Fried Potatoes, as a side dish for lamb chops or on a meze table.
6 medium carrots (about 1 pound / 454 g), cut into 3 by 1/2-inch (75 by 13-mm) sticks
1/4 cup (60 ml) water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup (75 g) feta cheese, crumbled
1 cup (245 g) ricotta cheese
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped preserved lemon
Put the carrots in a large sauté pan with 1/4 cup (59 ml) of water and the salt. Bring to a boil. Cover the pan, reduce the heat and cook the carrots over medium-low heat until tender but not mushy, about 7 minutes. Uncover and add the butter. Increase the heat to medium and sauté the carrots until all the water is evaporated.
In a mixing bowl, combine the feta and ricotta. Mash the cheeses together with a fork and add the lemon juice. Switch to a whisk to fully incorporate the cheeses and juice until light and airy. Fold in the preserved lemons.
Divide the whipped cheese mixture among 6 serving plates and top with the buttery carrots.
Sautéed Spinach with Yogurt and Paprika Oil
SERVES 4 TO 6
This classic dish uses the Ottoman culinary technique of topping vegetables with cool yogurt sauce. Another common Turkish way to finish a vegetable or soup is to warm butter or oil in a small skillet with spices to release the flavors; in this recipe we use sweet paprika. The contrast between the warm sautéed spinach and cool spiced yogurt makes every bite a treat.
Delicious and beautiful, this recipe may be served as a meze or side dish with Sophisticated Lady’s Thighs and Sweet Potato Yufka.
3/4 cup (180 ml) plain yogurt
1 medium clove garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 pounds (910 g) fresh spinach, well washed and coarsely chopped, or 2 pounds (910 g) fresh baby spinach
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
Spoon the yogurt into a small bowl. Finely chop the garlic with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and add it to the yogurt. This may be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated until ready to use.
Warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the spinach and toss to coat with the oil. Add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, the pepper and nutmeg. Cover the skillet and cook about 2 minutes if using baby spinach, and up to 4 minutes if using larger leaves, until the spinach has wilted. Add 2 tablespoons of water if the pan is too dry. When the spinach has cooked through, remove it from the heat. Drain any excess liquid.
Warm the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small pan over medium heat. When the oil is warm, but not hot, add the paprika. Turn off heat and stir until blended.
To serve, put the spinach on a platter or in a shallow bowl, making a slight depression in the center. Spoon the yogurt sauce into the depression and drizzle the paprika oil over the yogurt.
◁ Roasted Potatoes with Bay Leaves
SERVES 6
Greek athletes were crowned with wreaths of laurels, and the Romans believed that the laurel tree could not be struck by lightning. Outside the city of Antioch are the ancient groves of Daphne, the mythological nymph whose father turned her into a laurel tree rather than allow her to be caught by Apollo. Walking through the grove one afternoon where we purchased bags of the dried leaves to bring home as souvenirs, we almost expected to see Daphne running among the three-foot-wide, smooth-barked trees.
The astringent flavor of bay leaves adds complexity to meats and stews and marries well with potatoes. Turkish bay leaves are often preferred among cooks, as they have a milder flavor than the more mentholated California variety. Sumac, a spice that grows wild in Turkey and all through the Middle East, adds a lemony, slightly sour taste.
7 fresh bay leaves, or 5 dried bay leaves
6 tablespoons (85 g) butter
6 tablespoons (90 ml) olive oil
2 pounds (910 g) Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) chunks
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
Flaky sea salt
1 teaspoon ground sumac
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Tear or break each bay leaf into 3 pieces.
Melt the butter and olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the potatoes and mix to thoroughly coat. Toss with the salt and pepper and add the bay leaves, tucking them in among the potatoes so they don’t burn. Cover and bake for 20 minutes.
Uncover and bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender and lightly browned. Serve in the skillet or transfer to a serving platter. Season with the lemon juice and flaky sea salt, and dust with ground sumac.
Aegean Oven-Fried Potatoes
SERVES 4 TO 6
The summer we managed a guesthouse in Kalkan, after morning chores we would take a small ferry across the harbor and up a flight of stone steps to a café built into the cliffs that offered a sweeping view of the bay. There, over platters of crisp, hot French fries sprinkled with oregano salt, accompanied by glasses of cold beer, we would while away the afternoons.
As soon as the last fry had been eaten, another plate would appear. Though we knew the fries came from a huge bag of frozen potatoes in the café’s walk-in freezer, we didn’t really care, so happy were we with the company we kept, the sunshine and the cool blue waters where we swam. Back home in the States, we created our own version from fresh potatoes. These fries are fun as a snack with Kalkan Ketchup and a frosty glass of beer. They also pair well with Dill-Stuffed Whole Fish Baked in Salt, Minted Lamb Burgers or Chickpea Patties.
4 large russet potatoes (about 3 pounds / 1,400 g)
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Heat the oven to 450°F (232°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment or a Silpat.
Peel, trim and halve the potatoes lengthwise. Lay the cut sides down and cut lengthwise again into slabs about 1/4-inch (6-mm) thick. Cut each of those slabs lengthwise again into generous 1/4-inch (6-mm) sticks. Lengths can vary.
Place a colander in the sink or over a bowl. Put the potatoes in the colander and toss them with the sugar. Allow them to drain for 20 minutes. The sugar will draw out some of the moisture and help develop a crisp crust. Pat the potatoes dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towel.
In a clean bowl, toss the potatoes with the olive oil. Combine the salt and oregano and add to the potatoes. Toss well to coat.
Put the potatoes on the baking sheet in a single layer and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, turning once midway through, until they are crisp and golden brown. Eat them while they’re hot.
Asparagus with Walnuts and Orange Butter
SERVES 6
As Turkish cooks know well, tender kuşkonmaz, or asparagus, are delicious when tossed with butter-toasted walnuts and slightly acidic orange juice. This makes an elegant side dish with Cumin-Scented Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Thyme.
1 large orange
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup (60 g) coarsely chopped walnuts
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 pounds (781 g) thin asparagus, trimmed
Flaky sea salt
1/4 cup (9 g) coarsely chopped parsley
Cut the orange in half and then into quarters. Cut 1 of the quarters into slices and reserve the slices to garnish the finished dish.
In a large heavy pan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the walnuts and salt. Sauté for 5 to 7 minutes, until the walnuts are golden brown.
Increase the heat to medium and squeeze the juice from 2 of the orange sections over the walnuts, stirring to combine.
Turn the heat to medium-high and add the asparagus, turning to coat with the orange butter. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Steam the asparagus for 5 minutes, until tender but still firm.
Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze the juice from the remaining orange quarter over the asparagus and walnuts. Toss 1 more time and turn onto a serving platter.
Season with flaky sea salt and garnish with the chopped parsley and reserved orange slices.
String Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts
SERVES 4
Whenever green beans arrive in our local markets, we are reminded of the artfully displayed vegetables for sale in every neighborhood and village market throughout Turkey, including long, thin green beans piled high on wooden tables. Serve with baked or grilled fish, or slow-cooked lamb.
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup (30 g) hazelnuts, roughly chopped
1 pound (454 g) string beans, trimmed
1 tablespoon water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the hazelnuts and stir until they turn golden brown, about 5 minutes.
With a slotted spoon, transfer the toasted hazelnuts to a small bowl, leaving the butter in the skillet.
Add the string beans, 1 tablespoon of water and the salt to the skillet. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until the water evaporates and the beans are tender but still crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Add the hazelnuts and toss to combine. Transfer the beans to a serving bowl and season with a few grinds of black pepper.
Mrs. Karaaslan’s Beets
SERVES 4 TO 6
As did we, our friend Sakir learned how to cook at his mother’s knee. In his native Gaziantep in southeastern Turkey, it was common for children to spend time in the kitchen helping mothers and aunts prepare marinated beets, pilafs, Circassian chicken and melon salad. The women would pack their dishes into hampers and bring them to the hamam, the weekly communal bath, where they discussed the news of the day or the best matches between their marriageable children. This ancient ritual, which has largely fallen out of practice, was enjoyed among women for centuries.
At her home in Gazientep, we learned many of Sakir’s mother’s recipes. Her simple beet pickle, which we serve often at our meze and dinner tables, is the one that most reminds us of our friendship.
4 to 5 medium beets, cleaned and trimmed
1/2 cup (120 ml) canola or sunflower oil
1/4 cup (60 ml) distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste if needed
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (9 g) finely chopped parsley
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment, leaving enough overlap to cover the beets while roasting.
Cut each beet in half. Lay them cut side down on the baking sheet, cover with the parchment and seal and bake for 45 minutes or until tender. Set aside to cool slightly, about 10 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, shallots, salt, sugar and black pepper. Whisk to combine.
When beets are cool enough to the handle, peel and cut them into bite-sized pieces and put into a serving bowl. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Garnish with the chopped parsley.
The beets may be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated overnight in a covered bowl.