Bounty of the Seas
Setting out from Cunda Island in the Aegean, renowned for its seafood
With nearly 4,500 miles of coastline and Istanbul’s famous Bosporus Strait connecting the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, and ultimately the Aegean, Turkey is a country that values its seafood. There we’ve enjoyed the most flavorful baked, grilled, steamed, fried and simmered fish we’ve had anywhere in the world.
Fishing is big business in Turkey. And still from humble wooden docks and fancy piers fishermen, and sometimes women, set out for the daily catch, often returning with enough glistening barbunya (red mullet), squid, octopus and shellfish to sell, but just as often for their own suppers.
Sea bass, levrek, mild and flaky, is one of the most popular Turkish fish. In fact, it has been in danger due to overfishing, prompting the growth of hatcheries along the Aegean coastline. Bluefish, lüfer, is also common, and the best are said to come from the Bosporus Strait. Year-round on the Black Sea, hamsi, sardines, are the catch of the day. Simply fried or grilled, they make the best finger food.
In fall, when bluefish begin their annual migration from the cool waters of the Black Sea toward the warm Aegean, we cross the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn and watch fishermen in caps and women in headscarves leaning against the railing angling with rods, their buckets of minnows or containers of worms beside them. Vendors weave among us selling corn on the cob, simits and hot tea.
On the other side, at stands along the waterfront beneath the bridge, vendors call “Balık ekmek!” (“Fish sandwiches!”) and “Kalamar kızartma!” (“Fried calamari!”). Just off İstiklal Boulevard in the covered Balık Pazarı (fish bazaar), we join local workers for lunch at one of our favorite meyhanes (pubs), where we share crisp, lightly battered, Mediterranean-caught calamari brightened with a squeeze of lemon and served, as delicious snacks so often are in Turkey, with a cool glass of rakı.
Aegean Tuna Steak with Thyme and Oregano
SERVES 6
Wild-caught tuna fills an occasional yearning for the meaty texture of a thick beef steak. Here, sustainable albacore tuna is infused with the flavors of thyme and oregano, two heady, astringent herbs that grow wild along the rocky hillsides of Turkey’s Aegean and Mediterranean coasts. In their dried forms, thyme and oregano (sometimes called wild marjoram)—both members of the mint family—add a particularly earthy savor. The flavor of both herbs is more intense at certain times of year, when many Turkish cooks harvest and dry them, hanging bunches from the kitchen ceiling to use in dishes like this.
Serve with Carrots with Whipped Feta and Preserved Lemon, and Roasted Potatoes with Bay Leaves.
3 tablespoons dried thyme, divided
3 tablespoons dried oregano, divided
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
2 pounds (910 g) tuna steak, cut into 6 (1-inch / 25-mm) thick portions
1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil, plus more for brushing the skillet
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Flaky sea salt
Lemon wedges, for serving
In a shallow bowl large enough to hold the tuna steaks, combine 21/2 tablespoons of the thyme, 21/2 tablespoons of the oregano and the lemon zest. Add the tuna and turn to coat on all sides. Let the steaks marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice. Whisk in the remaining thyme, oregano and the salt.
Brush a large heavy skillet with olive oil and heat over high heat until a drop of water sizzles in the pan. Lay the tuna steaks in the pan in a single layer and cook for 4 minutes. Flip and cook for 4 minutes more, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 115°F (46°C) for medium rare. Transfer the steaks to a serving platter.
Pour the lemon juice mixture into the skillet and whisk over high heat until bubbling. Spoon the warm sauce over the tuna, season with flaky sea salt and serve with lemon wedges.
Grilled Trout, Mountain Style
SERVES 4 TO 6
Friends brought us to their favorite restaurant tucked away in the Taurus Mountains above the rugged Lycian coast in southern Turkey. In the second millenium BCE, the Lycians established a tradition of independent city-states and a federal style of government that became the envy of the ancient world. They would have been familiar with the fish we ate that day, farmed and plucked from pristine ponds fed by mountain streams and grilled over open charcoal fires. We spent the afternoon drinking Efes beer, nibbling excellent fried potatoes and eating grilled trout with lemon, leaving only echoes of laughter in the air and a pile of bones on our empty plates. Serve the trout with a Cheese-Filled Bread Boat and cold beer.
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
2 (1-pound / 454-g) whole trout, cleaned and gutted
4 sprigs fresh parsley
4 sprigs fresh oregano
4 sprigs fresh thyme (optional)
Lemon wedges, for serving
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high. Using a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil make a pan that is large enough to hold the 2 fish and brush it with olive oil.
Put the coriander and fennel seeds in a small dry skillet and roast them until the seeds begin to pop and release their aromas, about 3 minutes. Cool and crush the seeds, then mix them with 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small bowl.
Rub the fish, inside and out, with the spice mixture. Divide the sprigs of parsley, oregano and thyme, if using, between the cavities of each trout. Slash the fish diagonally through the skin at 2-inch (5-cm) intervals on each side and place in the foil pan.
Place the pan on the grill, close the lid and cook over direct heat for 7 minutes. Gently turn the fish and grill for 7 minutes more, until it reaches an internal temperature of 120°F (49°C) to 125°F (52°C). Transfer the trout to a large serving platter. Fillet the trout and remove the spine before serving with the lemon wedges.
◁ Swordfish with Lemon, Fennel and Rakı
SERVES 6
This recipe is inspired by evenings on the Mediterranean under starlit skies. The swordfish rests on a bed of fresh fennel. Thin disks of lemon are layered on top like golden scales, and a bit of rakı is poured in before the fish goes into the oven. Firm, flavorful halibut, native to the northern Atlantic and Pacific, is our go-to substitute for Aegean swordfish.
This makes a pleasing entrée accompanied by Sweet Potato Yukfa, Bulgur Pilaf with Fresh Herbs and String Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts. When served at room temperature with small plates, it’s an appetizer that pairs well with wine or cocktails.
3 medium lemons
1 medium bulb fennel
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
2 pounds (910 g) swordfish or halibut steak, divided into 2 portions
1/4 cup (60 ml) Turkish rakı, Greek ouzo or white wine
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper, if desired
Lemon wedges, for serving
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Scrub the lemons and cut them into very thin slices, removing any seeds.
Trim the fennel of its green stalks and fronds (save for making vegetable stock). Cut the fennel bulb in half lengthwise. With a small knife, remove the solid core at the base. Put the fennel cut side down on a cutting board and slice thinly lengthwise.
Spread the fennel evenly across the bottom of a medium baking dish and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Put the swordfish or halibut steaks on top of the fennel, then layer the lemon slices over the fish, overlapping the slices to look like scales.
Pour the rakı over the fish and sprinkle the remaining salt over the lemon slices. Cover the dish loosely with foil and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the flesh is just cooked through and the fennel is tender. Sprinkle with the parsley and sea salt, as well as black pepper if desired, and serve hot or at room temperature with lemon wedges.
◁ Sea Bass Baked in Parchment
SERVES 6
This fish-for-company dish is a happy marriage of Anatolian flavors, including lemon, pistachio, dill and cinnamon. Cinnamon may seem an unusual spice to pair with fish, but it has been part of the Mediterranean pantry since at least the second century BCE. Here it contributes an exotic note reminiscent of a North African tagine. Lemony herbed butter adds festive richness to the austere fish, and a dusting of ground pistachios contributes crunch.
Baking in parchment or foil packets, as is done in many Turkish seafood restaurants, not only keeps fish moist and flavorful, it’s also a dramatic way to serve any firm white fish on a bed of vegetables. As a bonus, clean-up is a snap.
6 tablespoons (85 g) butter, softened
11/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dill, or 1 teaspoon dried dill
11/2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red onion, peeled and sliced into half-moons
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced (1 cup / 90 g)
2 bay leaves
2 cups (230 g) peeled and diced plum tomatoes, or 1 (15-ounce / 425-g) can diced tomatoes, drained
2 cinnamon sticks, broken into 6 pieces
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds (910 g) meaty white fish such as swordfish, sea bass or halibut, about 1-inch (25-mm)thick, cut into 6 pieces
1/4 cup (30 g) ground pistachios
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Have ready a large baking sheet and 6 sheets of parchment or foil large enough to wrap each piece of fish.
In a small bowl, mash the butter with the dill, parsley and lemon zest to incorporate.
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over moderate heat. Add the onions, garlic, peppers and bay leaves and cook for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables have softened. Add the tomatoes, cinnamon, sugar, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until warmed through, then remove from the heat and discard the bay leaves.
Divide the vegetable mixture among the pieces of parchment, and add a piece of cinnamon stick to each. Pat the fish dry with paper towels and set 1 piece on top of the vegetables. Spread 1 tablespoon of the herb butter over the fish and sprinkle a little of the ground pistachios on top. Repeat with remaining fish to make 6 packets. Seal the packets by bringing both sides up and folding them over once or twice at the top. Tuck the ends underneath. Make a 1-inch (25-mm) slit in each packet at the top near the fold so steam can escape, and transfer packets to the baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 25 minutes depending upon the thickness of the fish, being careful not to overcook. The fish will continue to cook out of the oven.
Place each packet on a dinner plate and carefully cut open with a knife, taking care to avert your face from the hot steam. Garnish the fish with parsley.
Note: Both the herb butter and the vegetables in tomato sauce can be made 1 day ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Shrimp in Tomato and Feta Sauce (Garides me Feta)
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH OR 6 TO 8 AS AN APPETIZER
The Greeks from Anatolia and along the Aegean coast know this classic dish as garides me feta. Make it in summer with ripe local tomatoes or with good-quality canned tomatoes out of season. For a casual supper with friends, we like to set the pan in the center of the table, Turkish style, and serve with plenty of fresh bread for dunking.
For a proper meal, serve with Bulgur Pilaf with Fresh Herbs or basmati rice.
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups (230 g) roughly chopped plum tomatoes, or 1 (15-ounce / 425-g) can plum tomatoes with their juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Turkish rakı, Greek ouzo or white wine
1 pound (454 g) medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
8 ounces (150 g) feta cheese, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
1 tablespoon roughly chopped basil
1 tablespoon roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
Lemon wedges, for serving
In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and thyme to the pan and cook for 1 minute, stirring until the garlic is fragrant but not brown.
Stir in the tomatoes and any juices, salt and pepper. Break apart the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook the tomatoes until the sauce begins to thicken, about 8 minutes.
Stir the rakı into the tomato sauce and bring the heat back to medium-high until the sauce bubbles.
Arrange the shrimp in an even layer over the tomato sauce and cook for 3 minutes. Turn the shrimp and cook for 3 minutes more, until opaque and just firm to the touch. Add the crumbled feta. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let sit for about 5 minutes to soften the cheese. Uncover and season with Aleppo pepper and flaky sea salt. Top with the chives, basil and parsley. To serve, divide the shrimp and sauce among 4 plates and garnish with lemon wedges.
◁ Marinated Shrimp with Orange Zest and Nigella Seeds
SERVES 6
Nigella, sometimes called black cumin, is grown in Turkey and is a prominent spice in the kitchens of its eastern regions. The seeds come from Nigella sativa, a plant native to Southwest Asia. Nigella damascena, the plant’s domestic cousin, is a garden flower commonly known as love-in-a-mist, named for its lacy brackets surrounding a pale blue star-shaped flower. The seeds carry a faint hint of cooked onion and have a pleasantly peppery bite; while forthright, the taste is beguiling and easy to love. You may be familiar with them from Armenian string cheese or authentic New York City bialys.
Alternately, you may grill the shrimp over a hot flame or sauté them in the marinade in a pan. Serve with Grilled Flatbread and Tomato and Walnut Salad with Pomegranate Molasses.
3/4 cup (177 ml) olive oil
1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh oregano, or 1 scant teaspoon dried oregano
11/2 teaspoons nigella seeds
11/2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 pounds (781 g) medium shrimp, deveined with shells and tails on
1/4 cup (60 ml) orange juice
1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Orange wedges, for serving
Pour the olive oil into a shallow nonreactive dish large enough to hold the shrimp in a single layer. Add the garlic, orange zest, oregano, nigella seeds, Aleppo pepper, and salt, and whisk to blend.
Add the shrimp to the marinade, turning to coat each piece. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes or in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours. Bring the shrimp to room temperature before cooking.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a plate. Pour the marinade into a large skillet. Heat over medium heat until the marinade starts to bubble.
To cook the shrimp on the stovetop, add the shrimp to the hot marinade and sauté 3 minutes on each side until the shrimp are pink and their flesh becomes opaque.
To cook the shrimp on the grill, prepare the marinade in the skillet and set aside. Place the shrimp in a grill basket. Cook over a medium-hot grill until the shrimp turn opaque, about 3 minutes per side. Add them to the hot marinade in the skillet.
Pour the orange juice over the shrimp. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and garnish with the chopped parsley and orange wedges. Serve straight from the pan.
Rasim’s Crispy Kalamar with Tarator Sauce
SERVES 6
Rasim, who has a home near the Black Sea, showed us his way of frying kalamar, or squid. Popular in Turkish seafood restaurants, crisp kalamar is often served with a tarator sauce—a delicious mayonnaise made with breadcrumbs and walnuts. Present the kalamar to your guests as Rasim does, piled high on a platter hand painted in shades of blue. It’s wise to make extra, because the crisp fried rings and tentacles disappear fast. The sauce can be made a day or two ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.
FOR THE SAUCE
1 cup (95 g) walnuts
1/2 cup (100 g) breadcrumbs soaked in water and drained
1/2 cup (118 ml) olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
FOR THE KALAMAR
1 cup (160 g) rice flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
2 tablespoons dried thyme
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 large egg white
1 pound (454 g) squid, cut into 1/2-inch (13-mm) rings, tentacles left whole
2 cups (473 ml) vegetable oil
Lemons wedges, for serving
To make the sauce, put the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium-high heat and stir for about 5 minutes until toasted. Remove from the heat and, when cool enough to handle, transfer to a blender or food processor. Add the breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice and salt. Blend on a low speed until smooth and creamy. Add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the sauce is too thick.
Heat the oven to warm and line a baking sheet with parchment.
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper, dried thyme and paprika.
Put the egg white into a bowl large enough to hold the calamari. Whisk until opaque and frothy. Add the squid to the bowl and toss to thoroughly coat.
Drain the squid in a colander and immediately add to the flour mixture, tossing to combine well. Set aside for 10 minutes. (The resting time is essential for crispy rings.)
Put the parchment-lined baking sheet in the warm oven. In a wok or a large heavy-bottomed pan with sides at least 3-inches (75-mm) high, heat the vegetable oil on high heat until it registers 360°F (182°C) on a deep-fry thermometer (see Note).
Lift the squid, 4 or 5 pieces at a time, from the flour, shaking off any excess, and carefully place them into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan.
Be careful not to let the temperature of the oil drop below 350°F (175°C). Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, turning with tongs, until crisp and lightly browned.
Transfer the squid to the parchment-lined tray in the oven to keep warm. Continue to fry the squid in batches, keeping each batch warm in the oven, until all have been fried. Serve warm, with lemon wedges.
Note: If you don’t have a thermometer, drop a grain of rice into the oil. When the rice pops back up and starts to fry, the oil is hot enough. Or dip the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil. If bubbles rise around it, the oil is ready.
This evening’s dinner, displayed for sale on the dock in Foça, north of Izmir
Dill-Stuffed Whole Fish Baked in Salt
SERVES 4 TO 6
In Turkey, the whole fish preferred for baking in salt is red mullet, also known as barbunya, but many other varieties can be cooked this way with equally delicious results. Joy’s local fishmonger sometimes sells red mullet imported from Europe, but any smaller whole fish such as sea bass, red snapper and salmon work well. Serve with Shepherd’s Salad and rakı to drink.
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
2 (1-pound / 454-gram) whole trout, cleaned and gutted
1/2 bunch dill
3 large egg whites
5 cups (1,240 g) coarse kosher salt
5 tablespoons (74 ml) water
Lemon wedges, for serving
Heat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Line a baking sheet with foil.
In a small skillet, toast the coriander and fennel seeds until they begin to pop and release their aromas, about 3 minutes. Cool slightly and crush.
Rub the fish, inside and out, with the coriander and fennel seed mixture. Stuff half the dill inside each fish.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy. Pour in the salt and water and stir until the mixture becomes a thick paste with the texture of wet sand.
Make a salt bed for the fish by placing a little less than half of the salt mixture on the prepared baking sheet. Spread the salt in a layer about 3/4-inch (19-mm) thick, 1 inch (25 mm) beyond wider than both fish, and 1 inch (25 mm) beyond their length.
Set the fish side by side on the salt bed. Mold the remaining salt mixture over the fish in a 3/4-inch (19-mm) thick layer to cover and seal completely.
Bake for 20 minutes. To test for doneness, insert a sharp knife through the salt crust into the thickest section of fish. If the tip of the knife is warm, the fish is done. Or use an instant-read thermometer: the fish is done when the internal temperature reaches 120°F (49°C) to 125°F (52°C). The salt crust will be slightly browned.
Remove the fish from the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Firmly tap the crust over the fish with the back of a serving spoon to break the crust and peel it away. Remove the skin from the fish and place the top filet on a serving platter. Remove the spine and carefully transfer the bottom filet to the platter, leaving the skin and salt crust behind. Repeat with the second fish. Serve warm with plenty of lemon wedges.
An expressive sunburst of fresh sardines at a village market in Alaçatı, Izmir province