The Drama of the Dough
Shaping gözleme in a café on the Divan Yolu, Istanbul.
Of the many reasons we keep returning to Turkey, the abundant and delectable varieties of freshly baked bread are a pleasure that keeps drawing us back. Hot, crusty loaves pulled from a wood-fired oven are a welcome companion to every meal.
We’ve savored Turkish breads in southeastern cities from Urfa to Dyarbakir to Mardin, in homes with four concrete walls, a dirt floor and an outdoor oven, as well as in modern apartments with the latest stoves. We’ve enjoyed yufka, made with wheat flour, water and table salt, baked on a flat griddle and folded around lamb kebabs or cheese, herbs and vegetables from the backyard garden. Yufka’s versatility is nearly endless. When the sheets are stretched paper-thin, layered with butter or oil and savory or sweet fillings, yufka becomes börek and baklava: two crisp, layered, irresistible pastries.
Oversized loaves of sourdough bread, appear throughout Turkey, sliced and served at breakfast with cheese, olives and honey, and at lunch beside a filling soup bowl of çorba. Bread appears as a meze in the form of gözleme, which is yufka stuffed with cheese and herbs and grilled to toasty perfection.
But the bread that won our hearts after that first visit to Istanbul and remains our favorite is the honey-gold, sesame-studded, crisp and chewy ring called simit, Turkey’s quintessential street food. Comparable to a bagel or the German soft pretzel, it’s an inexpensive and delicious snack. The sesame seed crust has a slight sweetness, and the chewy interior is fragrant and moreish. Anyone who has visited Istanbul in the last five hundred years will be familiar with the simit seller balancing a tray of bread rings on his head, or with the modern glass-enclosed carts where, when a fresh batch arrives, the seller calls, “Taze, yeni geldi, Çıtır!” (Fresh, newly arrived, crispy!)
Stuffed Flatbread (Gözleme)
SERVES 4 TO 6
We first tasted gözleme, our favorite Turkish fast food, at an outdoor kiosk on a bus route near the ancient city of Ephesus. On that sunlit afternoon, the friendly cook, wearing pink-and-yellow-flowered shalwar trousers and a pink headscarf, rolled dough over a wooden board with a thin dowel, then placed it on a hot stone, sprinkling it with feta and parsley. When the edges began to crisp and the underside was dotted with bubbles, she folded the dough, flipped it and grilled it until the cheese softened. Reminiscent of both a Mexican quesadilla and a French handheld crepe, gözleme is served everywhere. Tender, fragrant and piquant with feta, it’s easy to make at home in a frying pan or on the grill.
1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil
1 recipe Flatbread Dough (recipe follows)
8 ounces (153 g) crumbled feta cheese
1 cup (50 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley
Heat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high heat until it is very hot. Lightly brush the cooking surface with olive oil.
Place one flatbread in the skillet (or as many as will fit on the griddle) and sprinkle one half of the dough round with feta and parsley. Fold to enclose the filling. Cook, flipping once, until both sides are lightly browned, about 2 minutes on each side. Remove to a platter and keep warm until all of the gözleme have been made. Slice each flatbread into 6 pieces and serve immediately.
Flatbread Dough
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 6 PIECES OF FLATBREAD
These flatbreads are cooked in a frying pan, more like a tortilla than a pita bread with a pocket. Yogurt adds pleasant flavor and helps create a tender, pliable dough that is easy to roll out and shape.
21/2 cups (315 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (240 ml) plain yogurt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Sift the flour and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the yogurt and mix for 7 to 10 minutes to form a smooth, pliable dough. If the dough is too sticky, dust with a little more flour; if it’s too dry, add up to 3 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Coat the inside of a large bowl with the vegetable oil. Form the dough into a ball and place it in the bowl. Cover with a clean, damp kitchen towel and let it rest in a warm place for about 30 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 6 equal pieces. Form each piece into a ball then roll each ball into a thin, almost translucent 6-inch (15-cm) round. Keep the remaining dough covered while rolling out each piece. Stack the rounds of dough between waxed paper or parchment so they don’t stick together. At this point, you can wrap the stacked rounds in plastic and refrigerate for up to 24 hours, or freeze for up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature before using. Otherwise, proceed to either Grilled Flatbread or Stuffed Flatbread.
Grilled Flatbread (Yufka)
SERVES 6
Making flatbread to eat with meze or dinner is about as easy at it gets. Here we put the rounds of dough on the grill, flipping once or twice until the edges crisp. Serve stacked on a plate to wrap around fillings or torn into pieces to dip into hummus. The flatbread will keep well for a day or two wrapped in plastic. The traditional way to revive flatbread that’s becomes brittle is to brush each side with water and let it rest under a tea towel for a minute or two, then briefly reheat it in a skillet or on the grill, flipping once, to soften.
1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil
1 recipe Flatbread Dough, formed into rounds
Flaky sea salt (optional)
Heat a large cast-iron skillet until it is very hot, or heat a griddle or grill to high. Lightly brush the cooking surface with olive oil.
Place 1 round of rolled-out dough in the skillet (or as many as will fit on the griddle or grill) and cook until the bottom is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Keep the remaining rounds of dough covered with a clean, damp kitchen towel until ready to use.
Flip the dough to brown the other side, 11/2 to 2 minutes. The bread may puff up while cooking, but it will deflate when cooled. When both sides are brown, slide the flatbread onto a platter and, while still warm, sprinkle with flaky sea salt if desired. Serve the flatbread warm or at room temperature.
Dervishes practicing moving meditation in the garden of the Mevlana Museum in Konya
Turkish Pizza (Lahmacun)
SERVES 4 TO 6
At lunchtime in Istanbul, merchants will send out for lahmacun and cups of ayran, the refreshing yogurt drink (shown here). This savory meat-topped flatbread has been a staple in Turkey, Armenia and Syria since at least the second century BCE; to this day it remains a popular fast food throughout Turkey, and there are lahmacun ovens to be found in almost every neighborhood.
This is a fun recipe to make with friends. Along with classic lamb topping, we set out chopped tomatoes, olives, chopped onions, chopped preserved lemon, finely shredded string cheese and a handful of herbs from the garden, then let guests roll out the dough and experiment. Feel free to substitute ground beef or turkey for the lamb. The key to perfect lahmucun is to make sure the ingredients are all finely chopped or shredded, and to use a light touch when layering them over the crust.
FOR THE DOUGH
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 cup (236 ml) lukewarm water, divided
3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
FOR THE TOPPING
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1/2 pound (227 g) ground lamb
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
11/2 teaspoons dried oregano
11/2 teaspoons dried mint
11/2 teaspoons ground sumac
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR SERVING
1 to 2 lemons, cut into wedges
1/2 cup (18 g) coarsely chopped parsley
1 large tomato, sliced
Make the dough: In a small bowl, mix the yeast, sugar and 1/3 cup (79 ml) lukewarm water. Set aside until it starts to foam, about 15 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, sift together the flour and salt. (If making the dough by hand, mix in a medium bowl and make a well in the center.)
Pour the yeast mixture into the flour and add the remaining 2/3 cup (158 ml) warm water. Set mixer to medium speed and incorporate the liquid into the flour until most of the liquid is absorbed and a somewhat shaggy dough is formed. Add a bit of extra water if the dough seems too dry, or a small amount of extra flour if it is too sticky.
Continue to knead the dough for 7 to 10 minutes until it becomes elastic and smooth. If kneading by hand, turn the dough onto a floured board and make one-quarter turns at regular intervals.
Coat a large bowl with vegetable oil and place the dough in the bowl. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and leave in a warm place for 1 hour or until the dough doubles in size.
Heat the oven to 425°F (218°C). If using a pizza stone, heat the stone starting in a cold oven, or line a baking sheet with parchment and set aside.
Make the topping: Melt the butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over moderate heat. Add the onions, garlic and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent but not brown, about 6 to 8 minutes.
In a medium bowl, combine the lamb, tomato paste, Aleppo pepper, oregano, mint, sumac, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper. Add the sautéed onions and garlic.
When the dough has doubled in size, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Cut the dough into quarters. With floured fingers, shape the dough into four 1/4-inch (6-mm) thick round or oblong pizzas. If necessary, use a rolling pin to flatten each piece.
Place one flatbread on the parchment-lined baking sheet or on a pizza peel, lightly coated with flour. Brush the edges of the dough with some of the remaining olive oil to create a crisp crust. Spread a thin layer of the topping mixture evenly over the dough. Place the baking sheet into the oven or slide the flatbread from the peel onto the pizza. Bake for about 15 minutes until the edges begin to turn golden and the lamb topping is browned.
Remove the lahmacun from the oven and slide it onto a cutting board. Cut into 4 to 6 wedges. Repeat with the remaining dough and toppings to make three more pizzas. Serve immediately with lemon wedges, parsley and fresh tomato slices.
Classic Puffed Pide Bread
MAKES 4 LOAVES
What’s in a name? The ancient Greeks of Anatolia brought the word pita or pide into the Turkish lexicon. It means bread in Aramaic, a language related to Hebrew that is still spoken in Christian neighborhoods in southeastern Turkey and in Syrian Orthodox churches throughout the world. But do not confuse Turkish pide with the familiar Middle Eastern pocket bread. It’s confusing enough, because in Turkey pide is actually used to describe three different types of bread: a flatbread similar to pita, a boat-shaped dough that is filled before baking (shown here) and this pide, a puffed bread topped with sesame and nigella seeds.
This flatbread pide relies on yeast to give it lift and a soft bread-like interior. Slice and fill it with kebabs or leftover roast chicken, lettuce and tomato. We tear pide into bite-sized pieces to scoop into Baked Hummus with Pine Nuts, Carrot Hummus with Toasted Fennel Seeds, Kalkan Ketchup and Yogurt Dip with Cucumber and Mint.
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 large egg, beaten
Flaky sea salt
Sesame seeds (optional)
Nigella seeds (optional)
In a small bowl combine the yeast, sugar and water. Let the mixture sit until it foams, about 15 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour and salt. (Or mix by hand in a medium bowl and make a well in the center.)
Add the yeast mixture, olive oil and yogurt to the flour. Slowly incorporate the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients on low speed, adding a tablespoon of water at a time, if needed, until a sticky dough is formed. Knead the dough on low speed in the mixer for 5 to 7 minutes, until it becomes pliable and silky and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, or knead it by hand on a lightly floured surface.
Coat a large bowl with vegetable oil, turn the dough into the bowl and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place until it doubles in size, about 1 hour. (Or leave to rise in the refrigerator overnight.)
Heat the oven to 425°F (218°C). If using a pizza stone, heat the stone starting in a cold oven, or lightly oil a baking sheet and set aside.
To form the pide, sprinkle flour on a clean work surface. Turn the dough out and fold it onto itself 3 or 4 times to deflate. Cut into 4 equal pieces.
Shape each pide into a 6- to 7-inch (150- to 175-mm) round. Brush the tops with the beaten egg. Leave the tops plain or sprinkle them with salt, sesame or nigella seeds, or a combination of all three.
Place the pide directly on the heated pizza stone or oiled baking sheet and bake until puffy and golden brown on top, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, slide onto a tray or plate and serve.
Kneading pide bread in the traditional manner, in an outdoor kitchen
◁ Cheese-Filled Bread Boat (Peinirli)
MAKES 1 BREAD BOAT, SERVING 4
Our travels in the Turkish countryside always remind us of the generosity of the people. While driving through the southwestern Aegean region one spring morning, we spotted a group of women baking bread in an outdoor communal oven. We pulled over and got out of the car to take a few photographs. Minutes later, after much laughter and warm hugs, we left with a loaf of fragrant hot flatbread in the shape of a boat, stuffed with creamy feta and fresh chopped parsley. This bread, also called pide (shown here), is commonly stuffed with a ground meat mixture as well. Serve with Dill-Stuffed Whole Fish Baked in Salt and Shepherd’s Salad.
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 to 2/3 cup (120 to 158 ml)lukewarm water
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
4 ounces (110 g) crumbled feta cheese (see here)
1/3 cup (12 g) roughly chopped parsley
1 large egg, beaten
In a small bowl combine the yeast, sugar and 1/2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water. Let the mixture sit until it foams, about 15 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix the flour and salt. (Or mix by hand in a medium bowl and make a well in the center.)
Add the yeast mixture, olive oil and yogurt to the flour. Slowly incorporate the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients on low speed, adding more water, a tablespoonful at a time, if needed, until a sticky dough is formed. Knead the dough on low speed in the mixer for 5 to 7 minutes, until it becomes pliable and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, or knead it by hand on a floured surface.
Coat the inside of a large bowl with vegetable oil, turn the dough into the bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place until the dough doubles in size, about 1 hour. (It also may be left to rise overnight in the refrigerator.)
Heat the oven to 425°F (218°C). If using a pizza stone, heat the stone starting in a cold oven, or line a baking sheet with parchment and set aside.
To form the bread boat, dust a clean work surface with flour. Turn the dough out on the board and fold it onto itself 3 or 4 times to deflate. Roll out into a rectangle about 6 inches (15 cm) wide, 12 to 14 inches (30 to 36 cm) long and 3/4 inch (19 mm) thick.
Sprinkle the dough with the feta cheese and parsley, leaving 11/2 inches (38 mm) on each edge. Roll the long sides of the dough over the filling, leaving about 3 inches (75 mm) of the cheese and parsley mixture exposed. Pinch the top and bottom of the dough to form the bow and stern of the boat. Brush the edges with the beaten egg and carefully transfer to the pizza stone or baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust is puffy and browned, and the cheese has melted on top.
Note: The feta and parsley filling can be replaced with 1 medium tomato, thinly sliced and layered evenly over the dough, topped with 4 ounces (110 g) crumbled goat cheese and 1 to 2 tablespoons crumbled Crisp Roasted Olives.
Sweet Potato Yufka
MAKES 6 FLATBREADS
We met Sakir outside his antique shop in Kalkan, a town nestled into the foothills of the Taurus Mountains overlooking the turquoise Mediterranean. His shop may have been filled with Ottoman treasures, but we bonded over a shared passion for food. Sakir taught us to cook many Turkish dishes, including a simple, perfect shish kebab and his mother’s beet salad (shown here), in the process becoming a dear friend who has since cooked in our own kitchens. His brilliantly simple sweet potato flatbread cooks up as fast as pancakes and disappears quickly. Serve with Turkey Sage Köfte and Chicken Shish Kebabs.
2 medium sweet potatoes, baked, peeled and mashed, or 1 (15-ounce / 425-g) can sweet potato puree
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the mashed sweet potatoes, flour, salt and olive oil. Pulse to combine. Once the mixture holds together, process the dough on low for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the dough becomes pliable. If the dough is too sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it for about 1 minute. Shape the dough into a ball and let it rest for 30 minutes.
Heat a griddle or large skillet over high heat. Divide the dough into 6 balls. Roll each ball into a round about 1/4-inch (6-mm) thick. Place 1 or 2 flatbreads on the griddle and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottom begins to brown and the kitchen fills with the aroma of sweet potatoes.
Flip the flatbread and cook it another 2 to 3 minutes until the underside is brown and the flatbread is crisp. Repeat with the remaining dough. Serve warm.
Crispy Börek with Feta, Parsley and Preserved Lemon
MAKES 24 (2-INCH / 5-CM) SQUARES
In Greece, Turkey and the Middle East, böreks—flaky pastries filled with cheese or meat—appear in nearly every bus station food stand and restaurant, and on most home tables as well. Cheese börek is easy to make and wonderful to eat as a light main course with a green salad. Cut into smaller pieces, börek becomes a perfect starter or meze.
Börek also freezes well. To reheat, place the frozen pastries in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
2 cups (300 g) crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
1/2 cup (40 g) finely chopped preserved lemons, rinsed, or 2 tablespoons finely chopped lemon zest
1/2 cup (115 g / 1 stick) butter
1/2 pound (227 g) filo dough, thawed at room temperature
1 cup (35 g) roughly chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Put the crumbled feta in a bowl and add the yogurt and lemon. Mash to create a creamy but still coarse mixture.
In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Unroll the filo dough and place it on a clean work surface. Cover the filo with a damp kitchen towel to prevent it from drying out.
Brush a thin layer of melted butter in the bottom of a 13 by 8-inch (33 by 20-cm) baking pan. Carefully place 2 sheets of filo dough in the bottom of the pan. Lightly brush the butter over the surface of the dough. Coat the edges with butter to seal the layers. Continue layering the filo dough, coating each layer with the butter until you have used half of the sheets and half of the butter.
Spread the cheese mixture evenly over the dough and sprinkle the parsley over the cheese. Cover with a sheet of filo and continue layering the remaining dough over the filling, brushing each sheet with butter. When all the filo sheets are used, brush the entire surface of the börek with the remaining butter.
Use a sharp knife to cut the börek into 2-inch (5-cm) squares. Dust the top lightly with paprika.
Bake until golden brown and puffed, 30 to 35 minutes. If the börek begins to brown too quickly, cover with a sheet of parchment. Remove the parchment 1 minute before removing the börek from the oven.
Cut the squares apart and serve warm or at room temperature as part of a meze table.
Börek may be made one day ahead and reheated in a 400°F (204°C) oven for 5 to 10 minutes.
Yufka, the versatile flatbread dough, finds its way into many meals.
◁ Sunday Simits
MAKES 8 (4-INCH / 10-CM) SIMITS
Simits are Istanbul’s iconic street food, piled on dowels and eaten out of hand like a soft pretzel. With a hint of sweetness from grape molasses, the doughnut-shaped bread’s crisp exterior yields to a flavorful, slightly chewy center. Intriguingly crusted in sesame seeds, simits are often served at breakfast with butter and honey or soft cheese and local fruit preserves. At home, we invite friends for Simits Sundays, when we treat the simits like bagels in a cultural brunch mash-up, with smoked salmon, sliced feta, thin red onion rings, capers and lemon. Simits are also irresistible when eaten with just a little too much butter.
The dough should be prepared the night before you plan to bake it, as simits require a slow rise in the refrigerator. To achieve the proper texture, they are baked above a pan of boiling water placed in the bottom of the oven to create a steamy environment. Trust us—they are well worth these small bits of extra effort.
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
11/4 cups (295 ml) warm water
3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour, divided
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 cup (150 g) hulled, raw sesame seeds
1/4 cup (60 ml) grape molasses or honey
1/2 cup (120 ml) lukewarm water, divided
Flaky sea salt (optional)
1 cup (236 ml) boiling water
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, dissolve the dry yeast in the warm water. Let the yeast sit until it foams, about 15 minutes.
Add 1 cup (125 g) of the flour and the salt to the yeast mixture. With the mixer on low, gradually add enough of the remaining flour until a stiff dough forms. Knead for 10 to 12 minutes. You can also mix the initial cup of flour with the yeast mixture in a bowl by hand, dump the remaining flour onto a clean work surface, then incorporate the dough into the flour and knead it by hand.
Use the vegetable oil to coat a bowl large enough to allow the dough to double in size. Shape the dough into a ball, place it into the bowl and cover with plastic. Set in the refrigerator to rise for 8 to 10 hours. The dough may be left in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
When ready to bake, heat the oven to 450°F (232°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment.
Put the sesame seeds into a medium heavy skillet over moderate heat. Toss and stir until the seeds turn light golden, about 7 minutes. Don’t walk away! If the seeds get dark, they will turn bitter. Transfer to a wide, shallow bowl and let cool.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator; it should now be doubled in size. Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour and turn the dough onto it. Punch down the dough until it deflates.
Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces, forming each into a ball. Keep the dough balls covered with a damp kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out.
Dust your hands with flour. Take a ball of dough and, working from the center out, begin rolling it between your palms to create a rope. Roll and stretch the dough until it is approximately 16 to 18 inches (10 to 46 cm) long.
With one hand holding the dough-rope in the center, lift it from the work surface. With the other hand, pinch the 2 ends together at the bottom. Twist the rope 4 or 5 times to create an interlocking spiral. Lay the dough on the work surface, and shape it into a ring about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Squeeze the ends together.
Continue with the other balls of dough, keeping the rings covered until you have 8 rings, about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Keep the dough rings covered with a damp towel. Let the rings rest for 30 minutes.
In a shallow bowl wide enough to hold a simit, combine the grape molasses with 1/4 cup (60 ml) lukewarm water and stir to dissolve. Place the bowl with the molasses mixture on the counter. Next to it, place a cake rack over paper towels or newspaper to catch any drippings. Place the sesame seeds next to the cake rack and place the prepared baking sheet next to the bowl of seeds.
Gently lift each simit ring so that it holds its shape and dip the dough into the molasses mixture to coat the entire ring. Set the simit on the cake rack to drain and repeat the process with the 7 remaining simits.
To finish, dip each ring into the sesame seeds and coat the entire simit. Place the simits on the baking sheet and carefully reshape as needed. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if desired.
Place an empty baking dish on the lowest rack in the oven and carefully pour 1 cup (236 ml) of boiling water into the dish. Place the baking sheet with the simits on the rack above the water. Carefully sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) of lukewarm water onto the floor of the oven and quickly close the oven door. The steam will create a crisp and chewy simit.
After 10 minutes, carefully remove the dish of hot water and continue baking simits for an additional 10 minutes or until they are a rich golden brown.
Simits can be frozen for up to 3 months and regain their crispness when heated in a 350°F (175°C) oven.
Note: Instead of sesame seeds, you can coat the simits with 1 cup (125 g) nigella or poppy seeds, or a mixture of all three. It is not necessary to toast the nigella or poppy seeds.
◁ Gougères a La Turka
MAKES 32 GOUGÈRES
In the lakeshore suburb of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where Joy grew up, women like her mother became newly sophisticated cooks under the influence of Julia Child. Timeworn cocktail party recipes were abandoned and suddenly these ethereal puffs called gougères were being served with gimlets and Manhattans. Airy yet rich, gougères seemed a miracle—and they still do. Given our interest in Anatolian culture, it was perhaps inevitable that we would end up making them with feta and Aleppo pepper. We tell ourselves they would have been praised by French-trained chefs in the sultan’s court. They just beg to be served with champagne, and are also a sophisticated surprise on a meze platter.
FOR BASIC DOUGH
1/2 cup (115 g / 1 stick) butter
1 cup (236 ml) water
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
4 large eggs at room temperature
FOR FETA GOUGÈRES
1/2 cup (75 g) finely crumbled feta cheese
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
FOR NIGELLA GOUGÈRES
1 tablespoon nigella seeds
1 tablespoon flaky sea salt
FOR ALEPPO PEPPER GOUGÈRES
1 tablespoon Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon flaky sea salt
Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment or a Silpat.
Make the basic gougères dough: Melt the butter in a medium heavy saucepan over low heat. Turn heat to medium-high and add water. Stir until the butter melts and the mixture comes to a boil. Remove from the heat.
Quickly add the flour to the butter mixture all at once and stir vigorously until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. Allow the pan to cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
When the mixture is warm to the touch, but no longer hot, add the first egg, stirring in a figure-8 motion until the egg is completely incorporated. Add the remaining eggs one at a time, fully incorporating each before adding the next. The mixture will transform into a golden, glossy unctuous paste. (To make the dough in a food processor, see here.)
To make the feta gougères, add the cheese and stir gently to incorporate it into the paste.
Using a teaspoon, scoop a dollop of the paste about 11/2 (38 mm) inches in diameter and drop it onto the prepared baking sheet, using a second spoon to help release it. Repeat with the remaining dough, placing the gougères about 1 inch (25 mm) apart.
Dust the gougères with paprika and a sprinkling of flaky sea salt and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until puffed and pale golden brown.
To make the nigella seed gougères, prepare the basic dough as described above, but do not add the feta cheese. Before baking, sprinkle with the nigella seeds and flaky sea salt.
To make the Aleppo pepper gougères, prepare the basic dough as described above, but do not add the feta cheese. Before baking, sprinkle with Aleppo pepper and flaky sea salt.
Baked gougères may be frozen for up to 2 months and reheated in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 10 to 15 minutes.
Note: To make the basic gougère dough in a food processor, melt the butter and combine it with the water and flour on the stovetop, then transfer the mixture to the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Allow mixture to cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs 1 at a time, pulsing to thoroughly incorporate each egg into the dough before adding the next, then proceed with the rest of the recipe.