A Skewer in Time
Ground lamb köfte, fragrant with spices, are grilled on skewers.
On their adventures along the Aegean shores of Turkey in Homer’s epic poem Odyssey, Odysseus and his crew partake of tenderized morsels of meat grilled on sticks—in other words, shish kebab (or şiş kebap). In Turkish, the word şiş means skewer and kebap means meat, although here in the States, kebab is used to refer to any type of food that’s skewered and grilled.
You’ll find kebab stands everywhere in Turkey, selling fragrant meat, usually lamb or chicken, wrapped in fresh, soft pide bread and dripping with garlicky yogurt çaçik sauce. This was the aroma that first struck us when we got off a bus in the seaside town of Göcek and walked along the narrow promenade. This region east of the Aegean toward the ruins of Aphrodisias is known for its roadside stands selling grilled kebabs. No matter that we had just eaten lunch—it was essential that we stop for a taste.
It would be unfair to call the equally popular köfte simply meatballs. Each Turkish home cook has a treasured family recipe in which minced lamb, beef or chicken is seasoned with a closely guarded mixture of cumin, pepper, allspice, even cinnamon, and shaped onto skewers for the grill. Many locantas (small restaurants) in Turkey serve köfte with mildly spicy grilled peppers and a refreshing glass of the yogurt drink Ayran, which not only adds a creamy-tart balance to the meat, but also is believed to aid in digestion.
Should you find yourself in a Turkish market, it’s worth seeking out flat metal skewers capped with brass tips, often with pretty Ottoman designs such as the lale, or tulip, or the tuğrâ, the elegant calligraphic symbol of the sultans.
Classic Lamb Köfte
MAKES ABOUT 24 SMALL KÖFTE
Perhaps the most popular dish in every Turkish locanta, the oval meatballs known as köfte are flavored with cumin, shallot and mint. They are an easy crowd pleaser that only taste better when the meat is mixed with seasonings at least 30 minutes before grilling. Here we use lamb, but beef is an option.
Serve the köfte on their own with Bulgur Pilaf with Fresh Herbs or stuffed into Classic Puffed Pide Bread pockets and always with plenty of Yogurt Dip with Cucumber and Mint. Grilled lamb köfte also pair well with Marinated Eggplant and Red Pepper Kebabs; you can alternate the köfte on the skewers with the eggplant cubes and onions and red bell peppers cut into 11/2-inch (38-mm) pieces.
11/2 pounds (781 g) ground lamb or beef
1 large egg, beaten
1/4 cup (35 g) finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (9 g) finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup (13 g) finely chopped mint
4 to 6 metal or bamboo skewers (If using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes before using.)
Vegetable oil, for brushing the grill
Line a baking sheet with foil. In a large bowl, combine the lamb, egg, shallots, salt, Aleppo pepper, cumin, paprika, black pepper, parsley and mint. Mix with your hands until well blended.
Shape 2 teaspoons of the meat mixture into an oval and flatten it slightly. Continue with the rest of the meat mixture, placing the köfte on the baking sheet in a single layer. Cover and refrigerate the tray of köfte for at least 30 minutes.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to high. Thread the köfte onto the skewers. Most skewers will fit 4 to 5 köfte. We like to flatten them out slightly while molding the meat mixture around the skewer. Brush the grill with oil and place the köfte over direct heat for about 7 minutes, then turn and grill for 5 minutes more or until the centers reach 145°F (63°C). Serve hot.
VARIATION
To bake the köfte, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Prepare the meat mixture and chill for 30 minutes as directed above, but instead of threading onto the skewers, place on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the centers reach 145°F (63°C).
Nourishing and familiar, beans are part of the meal eaten to break the Ramadan fast.
Turkey Sage Köfte
SERVES 4 TO 6
After returning to the United States from one of our Turkish journeys and longing for a good köfte, we created a turkey (as in the bird) version for family members and friends who no longer eat red meat. Because ground turkey is soft, we bake rather than grill these so they keep their shape. We first made them just before the Thanksgiving holiday, so we added sage, as is traditional, to the spice mix and served them with Sweet Potato Yufka. A bowl of Yogurt Dressing on the side is essential.
1 pound (454 g) ground turkey
1 large egg, beaten
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried mint, or 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon dried sumac
1 teaspoon finely chopped sage
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (25 g) breadcrumbs
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment.
In a large bowl, combine the turkey, egg, salt, pepper, mint, sumac, sage, garlic and breadcrumbs. Mix with your hands until well blended.
Shape 2 teaspoons of the meat mixture into an oval and flatten it slightly. Continue with the rest of the meat mixture, placing the köfte on the baking sheet in a single layer.
Bake the turkey köfte for 25 minutes, until juices begin to run clear and the meat is cooked through but not dry.
Marinated Eggplant and Red Pepper Kebabs
SERVES 4 TO 6
Pomegranate molasses mixed with olive oil, lemon and allspice makes a great marinade for meaty eggplant, which contrasts deliciously with bright squares of red bell pepper. These versatile kebabs go well with chicken or lamb chops or, when served atop a bed of pilaf, are a fine vegetarian main course. If grilling is not convenient, they can be cooked in a stovetop grill pan or in the oven.
1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
4 Japanese or 2 Italian eggplants (about 11/2 pounds / 781 g), unpeeled
2 red bell peppers, cored and seeded
1 large sweet onion, peeled
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 to 6 metal or bamboo skewers (If using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes before using.)
Vegetable oil, for brushing the grill
In a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, salt, allspice, smoked paprika and garlic.
Cut each eggplant into pieces about 11/2 inches (38 mm) square. Put in a bowl or shallow pan and add the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. If using the bell peppers and onions, do not add them to the marinade with the eggplant.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium. Brush the skewers lightly with vegetable oil. Thread the eggplant sections on the skewers, alternating with bell peppers and onions and leaving a small space between the pieces so they cook evenly. Brush any remaining marinade over the vegetables.
Brush the grill lightly with vegetable oil and place the kebabs directly on the grate. Grill for 7 minutes, then turn and grill for 7 minutes more. The kebabs are ready when the eggplant is tender. They may also be cooked on the stovetop in a heavy grill pan, or baked in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
Arrange the vegetable skewers on a platter. Season with a grind of black pepper before serving.
◁ Chickpea Patties
MAKES ABOUT 30 PATTIES, SERVING 6
Akin to falafel, these golden vegetarian cakes, with their crisp coating and complex blend of spices, are deeply satisfying. We add a teaspoon of baking powder to keep the texture light, and serve them with the smooth beet condiment we call Kalkan Ketchup for a sophisticated meatless take on that guilty pleasure, chicken nuggets. Sometimes we change it up with Yogurt Dressing and Grilled Flatbread.
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup (65 g) finely chopped onions or 1/2 cup (70 g) finely chopped shallots
4 cups minus 2 tablespoons (850 g) cooked chickpeas, or 2 (15-ounce / 425-g) cans chickpeas, drained
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup (30 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup (120 ml) to 1 cup (236 ml) vegetable oil
Kalkan Ketchup, for serving)
Lemon wedges, for serving
In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onions and cook until soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
Put the chickpeas, Aleppo pepper, salt, allspice, cumin and oregano in a food processor and pulse to just blend or mash by hand with a fork.
Add the onions, butter and vegetable stock to the processor and pulse again until just combined. The mixture should remain coarse; do not pulse to a completely smooth puree.
In a bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder and add to the chickpeas. Pulse until thoroughly incorporated. Transfer the mixture to the bowl, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.
Shape 1 heaping tablespoon of the chickpea mixture into a round, evenly flattened, 2-inch (5-cm) patty. Place on a lightly oiled baking sheet or dish large enough to hold them in a single layer. Continue with the rest of the chickpea mixture.
Pour 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the vegetable oil into a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Heat the oil until it sizzles when a drop of water hits it.
Carefully add the patties to the oil in batches (do not crowd the pan) and fry 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel–lined tray and keep warm in a low oven until all have been fried. Serve with Kalkan Ketchup on the side and lemon wedges.
Kalkan Ketchup
MAKES 3 CUPS (709 ml)
With a nod to the Mediterranean resort town where we enjoyed many dishes made with beets, this versatile condiment makes a splendid accompaniment to Chickpea Patties and many other vegetarian köfte. It also goes well with burgers, meat köfte and Aegean Oven-Fried Potatoes, and serves as a savory spread with goat cheese and crackers on the meze table. The beets may be roasted one day in advance.
1 pound (454 grams) red beets, or a mix of red and golden beets
1 cup (236 ml) distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup packed (110 g) light brown sugar
1/3 cup (45 g) chopped shallots
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Line a baking sheet with enough overhanging foil to cover the beets.
Halve the beets and lay them cut side down on the baking sheet. Cover with the overhanging foil and bake for 45 minutes, or until tender.
When cool enough to handle, peel and dice the beets and put in a medium saucepan. Add the vinegar, light brown sugar, shallots, salt, cumin, coriander and pepper. Over high heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes.
Spoon the mixture into a food processor or blender and pulse until it becomes a smooth puree. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Kalkan Ketchup will keep for 3 weeks in a sealed jar in the refrigerator.
Chicken Shish Kebabs
SERVES 4 TO 6
The marinade for these kebabs was inspired by a Persian friend who now lives in the fashionable Cihangir District on Istanbul’s European side. She adapted her mother’s recipe for grilled chicken by incorporating Turkish spices into the yogurt marinade, with lemony sumac and sweet paprika for brightness and color, and smoked paprika for depth.
These kebabs are great fun to serve at a backyard party. They may be cooked on the grill or baked in the oven. We always make extra because kebabs taste even better the next day as a savory addition to a main dish salad. In addition to making the chicken meltingly tender, the yogurt marinade ensures that the meat remains moist. Set out on platters accompanied by Classic Puffed Pide Bread or Sweet Potato Yufka, with serving bowls of Yogurt Dressing and tart, juicy Shepherd’s Salad.
11/2 teaspoons ground sumac
11/2 tablespoons dried mint
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
11/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 cups (480 ml) plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (55 g) chopped onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium sweet onion
11/2 pounds (781 g) boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs, or a combination, cut into 11/2-inch (38 mm) pieces
6 to 8 metal or bamboo skewers (If using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes before using.)
Vegetable oil, for brushing the grill
In a bowl large enough to accommodate all the chicken pieces, combine the sumac, mint, smoked paprika, sweet paprika, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Add the yogurt, garlic, chopped onions and olive oil and mix well.
Add the chicken pieces to the yogurt-spice mixture and stir to completely cover the meat with the marinade. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or foil and marinate the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high. Peel the sweet onion and cut it into 11/2- (38- to 50-mm) pieces. Separate the onion layers.
Alternate threading 4 to 6 chicken pieces with larger onion pieces on each skewer. Leave space between the pieces of chicken so that they cook evenly.
Lightly brush the grill with vegetable oil and place the skewers on the hot grill. Close the lid and cook for 6 minutes, then turn the skewers over and cook for 5 to 6 minutes on the second side until the juices begin to run clear and the internal temperature reaches 165°F (74°C) to 170°F (77°C). Arrange the skewers on a platter.
Cooks prepare for a busy night on Istiklal Avenue in Beyoglu, Istanbul.
◁ Lamb Shish Kebab with Pomegranate and Soy Sauce
SERVES 6
Although lamb is most authentically Turkish, we find this marinade also works well with beef sirloin tips. In Turkey, only onions are skewered with the meat; other vegetables are always grilled separately. The tangy pomegranate-soy sauce marinade ensures a delectable crust on the grilled meat. Stuff the delicious kebab into Classic Puffed Pide Bread and drizzle with Yogurt Dressing.
1/2 cup (120 ml) sunflower or grapeseed oil
3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
11/2 pounds (781 g) leg of lamb or beef sirloin, cut into 11/2-inch (38-mm) pieces
1 bell pepper, any color
12 to 18 cherry tomatoes
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil for brushing the vegetables
Kosher salt
1 medium sweet onion
12 metal or bamboo skewers
(If using bamboo skewers, soak in water for 30 minutes before using.)
Vegetable oil, for brushing the grill
In a bowl large enough to hold the meat, whisk together the sunflower oil, pomegranate molasses, soy sauce, salt, cumin, paprika and garlic.
Add the meat to the marinade and ensure it is completely submerged. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.
Core and seed the pepper and cut it into 11/2-inch (38-mm) pieces. Prick the cherry tomatoes with a toothpick to prevent them from bursting on the grill.
Brush 6 of the skewers with vegetable oil. Alternate threading the tomatoes and pepper pieces onto the skewers, dividing evenly among the skewers. Brush the vegetables with vegetable oil and season with salt.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high. Place the vegetable skewers directly on the grate and grill the vegetables for 10 to 15 minutes, turning to brown all sides and brushing occasionally with more vegetable oil.
When the vegetables are tender, arrange the skewers on a serving platter. Keep warm while grilling the meat.
Brush the remaining skewers with vegetable oil. Peel the onion and cut it into 11/2-inch to 2-inch (38-mm to 51-mm) pieces. Alternately thread pieces of lamb with onion segments on each skewer. Leave a bit of space between the meat so that it cooks evenly.
Place the skewers on the hot grill and close the lid. Cook for 6 minutes. Turn the skewers over and cook for an additional 6 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 140°F (60°C).
You can remove the meat and vegetables from the skewers and serve them separately on platters if you wish, or simply leave them on their skewers.
Grilling kebabs at an outdoor festival in Bodrum, on the Aegean coast.