Savory and Aromatic Meats
In a restaurant kitchen in Sultanahmet, as at home, cooks begin by chopping onions.
In ten-thousand year-old Hasankeyf, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited villages, we sit cross-legged beneath a reed roof on a platform suspended over the Tigris River, watching a group of boys swim and splash in the slow-moving current. Across the river, near the remnants of a twelfth-century bridge, a woman in shalwar pants and a red headscarf leads a single line of fat, woolly sheep down a rock-strewn slope toward the silt-green water.
So mesmerized are we that we startle when a young man sets before us plastic plates piled with fragrant pilaf and chunks of succulent slow-roasted lamb shoulder seasoned with rosemary and black pepper (shown here).
The image of sheep grazing in dun-colored fields beneath a burnt-white sky is one we will carry with us when we return home. In the neighboring villages, with Eid al-Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice, a week away, we’ve seen the lone sheep or goat tied to a post being cared for and petted before meeting its fate.
Lamb and mutton are the most popular sources of meat in Turkey and have been grilled, stewed and braised for thousands of years. Our recipes for lamb chops marinated in pomegranate molasses (shown here) and pekmez, grape molasses (shown here) honor an Anatolian-Ottoman dish, lamb braised with tart plums. And while beef is still rare and expensive, it has become more available, especially in cities like Istanbul and Ankara. In recipes such as Minted Lamb Burgers, ground beef makes a fine substitute. Since Islam forbids eating pork, it’s seldom eaten or sold in Turkey outside the remaining Christian neighborhoods and family-run businesses.
Chicken, another staple, is often tenderized with spiced yogurt marinades and paired with cumin, a versatile spice. One of the main ingredients of curry powder, in southeast Turkey cumin is found on the table as a condiment in small serving containers along with mint and Aleppo pepper. Native to Iran, cumin was once used as currency and certainly traveled along ancient trading routes.
Traditional Circassian Chicken, paired with walnuts and walnut oil, has become of our favorites and is always a treat for guests.
Mediterranean Lamb Chops with Pekmez
SERVES 6
Pekmez, or grape molasses, is a staple food in Turkish and Middle Eastern kitchens, where it is considered as much a nourishing tonic as a fruit preserve that finds its way into many different recipes. Pekmez is traditionally cooked in large kettles over an outdoor fire in autumn following the grape harvest. For breakfast, it is commonly swirled into tahini and eaten with bread. These chops may be grilled instead of pan-seared; in that case, make the sauce in a small saucepan. Serve with String Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts.
12 (1-inch / 25-mm) thick lamb chops (about 3 pounds / 1,400 g)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup (70 g) finely chopped shallots
1/2 cup (120 ml) pekmez (grape molasses)
1/2 cup (120 ml) water
1/2 cup (120 ml) red wine
1/2 cup (75 g) seedless red grapes, halved
Put the lamb chops in a shallow dish in a single layer, drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and turn to coat with the seasonings.
Heat a large heavy skillet over moderately high heat. Add the lamb chops, in batches if necessary, and cook on one side for 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn and cook for about 6 minutes more, or until the internal temperature reaches 140°F (60°C) to 145°F (63°C) for medium; the chops will continue to cook after being removed from the heat. Transfer to a serving platter and keep warm.
Return the skillet to moderate heat and add the butter. When the butter foams and bubbles, add the shallots and sauté for 5 minutes until they turn a light golden color. Stir in the pekmez and water and bring to a boil. Add the red wine. Bring the mixture back to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer; let cook until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. The sauce should be the consistency of a light syrup. If it becomes too thick, add more water, 1 teaspoon at a time.
Remove from the heat and stir in the grape halves. Spoon the sauce over the lamb chops and serve.
Lamb Chops with Pomegranate Sauce
SERVES 6
Nar ekşisi, or pomegranate molasses, is made from sweetened, reduced pomegranate juice. Although we keep store-bought bottles of this Turkish condiment in our pantries, it can be made at home. In a pinch, syrupy reduced balsamic vinegar may be used as a substitute. Here we’ve offset the pomegranate’s tartness with Aleppo pepper and thyme for a flavorful finishing sauce. When sprinkled with juicy pomegranate seeds, this dish will brighten the dinner table. Serve with Arugula and Fennel Tulip Salad with Orange and Radish.
1/4 cup (60 ml) pomegranate molasses, divided
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon sugar
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons olive oil
12 (1-inch / 25-mm) thick lamb chops (about 3 pounds/1,400 g)
Flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 cup (75 g) pomegranate seeds, for garnish
In a bowl, combine 3 tablespoons of the pomegranate molasses, the lemon juice, tomato paste, sugar, garlic, Aleppo pepper and dried thyme, and mix well. Whisk in the olive oil.
In a shallow dish, lay the lamb chops in a single layer and rub the marinade on both sides of the chops. Leave the lamb to marinate, covered, at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
Heat the oven to 300°F (149°C). Remove the lamb chops from the marinade, reserving it to make the sauce.
In a heavy skillet over medium-high heat, sear the chops for 1 minute on each side and 30 seconds on the edges.
Set the skillet aside and transfer the lamb chops to an ovenproof roasting pan large enough to hold them in a single layer, or use two pans. Roast the chops in the oven, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 140°F (60°C) to 145°F (63°C). Take care not to overcook. Remove the chops from the oven and let them rest uncovered for 5 minutes.
Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium heat. Add the reserved marinade and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the browned bits. Add 1/2 cup (120 ml) of water and the remaining 1 tablespoon of pomegranate molasses. Stir to combine and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Season to taste with sea salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest.
Place the lamb chops on a large serving platter and spoon on the sauce. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds.
◁ Minted Lamb Burgers
SERVES 6
Juicy grilled patties of seasoned ground meat are an integral part of the Turkish menu, and the super-deluxe gourmet burger shows no sign of losing its wild popularity in American bars and restaurants: two good reasons to try these savory herbed burgers of ground lamb topped with sautéed onions. While ground beef may be substituted, our friends and family love the flavor of lamb paired with mint in these burgers.
Toast the buns and top each burger with a thick slice of tomato, sautéed onions and a drizzle of Yogurt Dressing or Kalkan Ketchup. Round out the barbecue with Russian Potato Salad.
4 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
11/2 pounds (781 g) ground lamb
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
11/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup (17 g) finely chopped mint, or 2 tablespoons dried mint
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brushing buns and burgers
1 large onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
6 sourdough rolls or hamburger buns
6 thick tomato slices
Fresh dill or mint sprigs, for garnish
Put the garlic on a cutting board and sprinkle with 11/2 teaspoons salt. Mash the garlic into a paste and scrape into a mixing bowl. Add the ground lamb, eggs, black pepper and mint to the bowl and mix lightly to combine. With clean hands, form the meat into 6 patties, each about 3/4-inch (19-mm) thick, and set them on a plate. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. The patties can be made up to 24 hours ahead and taken out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.
Prepare the Yogurt Dressing and refrigerate until ready to serve. The sauce may be prepared up to 1 day in advance.
In a skillet over medium-low heat, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the sliced onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly caramelized.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium-high. Slice the rolls and brush the cut sides with olive oil. Place on the grill, cut side down, and toast them for 1 to 2 minutes.
Brush the burgers with olive oil. Set them on the grill for 3 minutes. Turn and grill for about 7 minutes more until their centers are cooked through to 140°F (60°C) (for rare) to 145°F (63°C), depending on personal preference.
Place each burger on a roll and top with sautéed onions, sliced tomato and yogurt sauce. Garnish with dill.
◁ Lamb Kleftico (Cypriot-Style Lamb Shanks)
SERVES 6
In Bellapais, in the mountains of Kyrenia in northern Cyprus, we met Deirdre Guthrie, proprietor of the guesthouse where we stayed. Deirdre, whose father was a composer and her mother an artist, grew up with the author Lawrence Durrell as a next-door neighbor. On Sundays, he would join Deirdre’s family for slow-simmered, succulent Lamb Kleftico, arguably the national dish of Cyprus.
In Greek, kleftico means thieves, and the dish is named after the bandits and freedom fighters who lived in the Cypriot hills and forests. They would steal a lamb, bury it with smoldering coals from the previous evening’s fire and let the meat cook slowly, undetected by passersby when they were away from camp.
This is Deirdre’s recipe. She simmers the shanks in Maratheftiko, a dry wine from Cyprus, but a good California zinfandel, or a hearty cabemet or burgundy, works well too. The coastal hillsides of Cyprus and Turkey are lush with wild thyme and oregano, which give the dish robust flavor. It’s not traditional, but we like to add a few mildly hot Anaheim or banana peppers for a spicy kick. This is a meal in a bowl. Serve with String Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts and Grilled Flatbread.
6 lamb shanks (about 3 pounds / 1,400 g)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
2 tablespoons fresh oregano
6 medium russet potatoes
6 medium carrots
6 cipollini onions, or 3 medium yellow onions
6 long, sweet-spicy peppers such as Anaheim or banana (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons tomato paste
3/4 cup (177 ml) beef or chicken stock, or water
6 bay leaves
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 cups (473 ml) dry red wine
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1/4 cup (9 g) roughly chopped parsley Lemon wedges,
for serving
Heat the oven to 325°F (163°C).
Put the lamb shanks in a bowl large enough to hold them (the shanks do not need to be in a single layer). If the lamb shanks have been in the refrigerator, let them come to room temperature. Add the thyme and oregano and toss to combine. Cover the bowl and set aside.
Peel the potatoes and cut in half, or in quarters if large. Peel and trim the carrots and cut in half lengthwise, then into quarters. Peel the cipollini onions and leave them whole (if using yellow onions, cut into halves, or quarters if large). If using peppers, leave them whole.
Put the olive oil in a medium pan over moderate heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds, just long enough for the garlic to sizzle slightly and exude its aroma. Add the tomato paste and stir to blend well. Add the stock and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat.
Put the lamb shanks in a roasting pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Tuck the potatoes, onions, carrots and bay leaves between the shanks. Pour the tomato sauce over the meat and vegetables. Top with the peppers, if using. Season with salt and pour the red wine over all.
Cover the roasting pan with foil and place in the oven. Roast the shanks for 2 to 21/2 hours, checking once or twice and basting with the sauce. Remove from the oven when the meat is tender and falling off the bone.
To serve, arrange on a large platter and top with some of the sauce. Season with flaky sea salt and pepper and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve with lemon wedges.
Roast Leg of Lamb with Rosemary, Garlic and Lemon
SERVES 6 TO 8
This lamb takes us back to the fragrant hillsides above the Aegean. Roast lamb is a celebratory dish both here in the States, where it is often prepared for holidays, and in Turkey during the Feast of the Sacrifice, Eid al-Adha, which takes place seventy days after Ramadan to commemorate the prophet Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son Isaac. Live lambs may be festooned with ribbons and henna, prayers are offered at the mosque and following the sacrifice, the meat is shared among the poor.
As our lamb roasts, lemon, white wine and two heads of roasted garlic meld with the pan juices to create a simple sauce. To set the mood, serve Bosporus Fizzes for predinner cocktails, along with Anatolian Nut Mix. The lamb goes well with Arugula and Fennel Tulip Salad with Orange and Radish and crusty bread on which to spread the roasted garlic.
1 (6-pound / 2,800-g) rolled boneless leg of lamb
1/4 cup (20 g) fresh rosemary leaves, plus whole sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 heads garlic, one separated into cloves and peeled (about 12 cloves)
3 lemons, cut into quarters, plus lemon wedges, for serving
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2 cups (473 ml) white wine
Heat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Place the leg of lamb in a roasting pan. Finely chop the rosemary leaves with the kosher salt. Rub the rosemary salt over the leg of lamb and season with pepper.
Make deep slits, 1-inch (25-mm) wide and 1-inch (25-mm) long, evenly over the lamb equal to the number of garlic cloves, and insert a peeled clove into each slit.
Slice 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the tops of the 2 whole garlic bulbs and remove some of the papery outer skin, leaving the bulbs intact. Set the bulbs in the pan, one on each side of the roast.
Add the quartered lemons to the roasting pan. Pour the olive oil and wine evenly over the lemons and the garlic, but not over the lamb.
Roast for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C) and roast for 45 to 60 minutes more, about 15 to 20 minutes per pound or until the internal temperature of the lamb reaches 135°F (57°C) to 140°F (60°C).
Remove the roast from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes. The roast will continue to cook.
Meanwhile, remove the whole garlic bulbs from the pan, separate the cloves (leaving them in their skin) and set them aside. Pour the pan juices through a sieve into a small saucepan. Press on the lemons to release their juice. Keep the pan juices warm.
To serve, cut the roast into 1/2-inch (13-mm) thick slices and arrange on a platter. Spoon the pan juices over the lamb and garnish with rosemary sprigs. Pass the roasted garlic cloves to spread on rustic bread. Serve with lemon wedges.
Whole lamb cooked for hours in a traditional pit oven anchors a celebratory meal.
Sophisticated Lady’s Thighs (Sofistike Kadınbudu)
SERVES 6 TO 8
It is said that Kadınbudu, spiced köfte, was created in the sixteenth-century Ottoman kitchens of the Topkapı Palace. They were shaped into oblong ovals, an homage to the assets of the women who lived in the sultan’s harem. In tribute to these women, about whom we know so little, we created a modern version of the traditional recipe. Ask your butcher to bone the skin-on chicken thighs, or learn to do it yourself—it’s easy. If you can find the Middle Eastern dried lemon peel, it adds extra complexity to the dish. Serve these with Mrs. Karaaslan’s Beets and Saffron Rice Pilaf with Chickpeas and Mint.
12 ounces (225 g) crumbled feta cheese
11/2 teaspoons dried ground lemon, or 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (35 g) chopped parsley
12 boneless chicken thighs, skin on (about 3 pounds / 1,400 g)
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a medium bowl, combine the feta with the lemon, black pepper and chopped parsley. Mix well.
Lay the chicken thighs, skin side down, on a work surface. Open and flatten slightly by hand.
To stuff the thighs, scoop 1 generous tablespoon of cheese filling into your hand and press it into an oval. Place the filling into the center of each chicken thigh. Fold the meat over the filling, right side then left, to create small packets.
Place the packets, seam side down, in a baking pan large enough to hold the thighs tightly together. It’s okay if a bit of filling falls into the pan. If additional filling is left after stuffing the thighs, scatter it over the chicken.
Cover the pan with foil and bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 minutes more, until the internal temperature of the thighs reaches 165°F (74°C) and the skin has turned golden brown.
Circassian Chicken (Poached Chicken with Walnut Sauce)
SERVES 6 TO 8
This celebratory dish of shredded poached chicken in walnut sauce, a particular favorite of ours, tastes rich and exotic. Following the classic Ottoman recipe, we tried making walnut oil by grinding the nuts with a mortar and pestle. The flavor was incomparable but it was very labor intensive and a messy process to obtain even a scant teaspoon of oil. We have settled on opening a fresh bottle of good-quality walnut oil from the supermarket, which works almost as well. Along with the oil, always use the freshest walnuts possible.
Circassian chicken makes wonderful use of a whole bird to feed a crowd, and the flavorful stock in which it’s poached is used in the sauce made from fresh bread, walnuts and garlic. This dish owes its popularity in Turkey to the displaced people of Circassia, a mountainous region of Eurasia. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Russia invaded the Caucasus region between the Caspian and Black seas, forcing its inhabitants to flee into the Ottoman Empire. Turkey still has the largest Circassian population in the world, many of whom live along the Black Sea coast between Istanbul and Samsun. The physical beauty of the Circassian people has been noted throughout history.
FOR THE CHICKEN
11/2 medium onions, quartered
1 medium leek, white and green parts, coarsely chopped
1 large carrot, coarsely chopped
1 chicken (about 6 pounds / 2,800 g)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 cloves garlic, peeled
Small handful of cilantro or parsley
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup (65 g) finely chopped onion
FOR THE WALNUT SAUCE
3 slices bread, crusts removed
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
1 cup (95 g) shelled walnuts
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup (60 ml) walnut oil
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped cilantro, for garnish
MAKE THE CHICKEN: Put the quartered onions, leeks and carrots in a large stockpot. Remove and discard the neck and gizzards from chicken’s cavity and set the chicken on top of the vegetables. Sprinkle the salt evenly over the chicken. Add the garlic, cilantro, peppercorns and bay leaves.
Add enough water to completely cover the chicken by 1 inch (25 mm). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. When the chicken has finished cooking, remove it from the broth and transfer it to a large bowl to cool.
Strain the chicken stock into a clean pot, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve 13/4 cups (413 ml) of stock for this recipe and refrigerate or freeze the remaining stock for another use.
When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and separate the meat from the bones. Shred the meat as finely as possible and set the shredded chicken aside. Discard the skin and carcass.
In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the chopped onions and sauté about 5 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the shredded chicken and 3/4 cup (177 ml) of the reserved chicken stock. Gently heat the mixture for about 10 minutes until the stock has evaporated. Spoon into a large bowl.
MAKE THE WALNUT SAUCE: Put the bread in a shallow dish. Cover with the milk and allow the slices to absorb it. In a food processor or blender, finely grind the walnuts with the garlic. Add the milk-soaked bread and pulse into a thick paste. Add 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the reserved chicken stock, the coriander, allspice, pepper and salt. Pulse to blend. Add more stock as necessary to create a smooth sauce the consistency of heavy cream.
Add the walnut sauce to the chicken mixture and toss gently to combine. Mound the chicken on a serving platter.
Just before serving, place a small pan over medium heat and warm the walnut oil until the surface ripples, about 1 minute. Add the Aleppo pepper and stir just until the pepper begins to darken, about 30 seconds more. Pour the pepper oil over the chicken and garnish with the chopped cilantro.
◁ Cumin-Scented Roast Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Thyme
SERVES 6
It is no wonder that references to cumin are found in the Bible; it may well be one of the world’s oldest spices. The name is thought to have derived from the Sumerian name, gamun.
When the aroma of preserved lemons, thyme and cumin perfumes your kitchen, it becomes, for a little while, a place of poetry. The bird emerges from the oven golden and crisp-skinned, and its flesh becomes fragrant, flavorful and tender to the bone. We will roast a chicken just to have just the leftover carcass from which to make soup the following day.
Serve with Armenian Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf and String Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts.
FOR THE CHICKEN
1/2 cup (115 g / 1 stick) butter, softened
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 (5- to 6-pound / 2,300- to 2,700-g) whole chicken
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 small bunch thyme
2 sprigs mint
2 sprigs parsley
2 large preserved, or 3 small lemons, quartered
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons pan drippings
1 tablespoon olive oil (optional)
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine, or chicken or vegetable stock
3/4 cup (177 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat the oven to 450°F (232°C).
Mix the softened butter with the ground cumin.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and set it in a large roasting pan, breast side up. Remove and discard the neck, liver and gizzards from the cavity. Sprinkle inside the chicken with salt and stuff it with the thyme, mint, parsley, preserved lemons and zest.
Carefully loosen skin all over the chicken, making sure to get under the drumsticks and into the cavities by the wings. Massage the cumin butter beneath the skin. It’s okay to leave little lumps of butter. Tuck the wings beneath the breasts. With kitchen twine, tie the drumsticks together.
Roast the chicken in the oven, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F (204°C) and continue roasting for 25 to 30 minutes more. When the chicken has been in the oven for a total of 45 to 50 minutes, insert an instant-read thermometer into the center of the breast. When the temperature reaches 165°F (74°C) and the juices run clear, the chicken is done. Remove it from the pan and set on a cutting board to rest for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Scrape any bits from the roasting pan and pour them with the drippings through a sieve into a small pan or bowl, pressing to capture all the flavor. Discard the solids.
Place 2 tablespoons of the drippings into a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. If necessary, add the olive oil to make a total of 2 tablespoons. Add the shallots and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the white wine and chicken stock and bring to a rapid simmer for 3 to 5 minutes until the mixture is reduced by half. Reduce the heat to low and whisk in the butter until incorporated. Whisk in the lemon juice. Stir in the parsley and thyme. Taste and add salt and pepper accordingly.
Cut the chicken into serving pieces. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and top with the sauce.
Yogurt-Marinated Grilled Chicken
SERVES 4 TO 6
Using yogurt marinades to tenderize meat is a wise and ancient technique popular in India and the Middle East. The flavors of garlic, parsley and spices are absorbed by the chicken to create an exotic, succulent dish. Chicken can rest in the marinade refrigerated for at least one hour and up to twenty-four, so that the flavors penetrate but the meat doesn’t get too soft. Serve with Classic Puffed Pide Bread or Grilled Flatbread, and Shepherd’s Salad.
1 tablespoon ground sumac
1 tablespoon dried mint
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped basil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (110 g) chopped onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups (480 ml) plain yogurt
1 chicken (about 5 pounds / 2.300 g), cut into 8 pieces
In a bowl large enough to hold the chicken pieces, combine the sumac, mint, smoked and sweet paprika, salt, black pepper, lemon juice and basil. Add the garlic, onions and olive oil. Add the yogurt and stir to incorporate the spices.
Add the chicken pieces to the yogurt mixture and coat, pressing on the chicken to submerge the pieces in the marinade. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 24.
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium. Place the chicken pieces on the grill, skin side down, and discard the marinade. Grill the chicken for 20 minutes with the lid closed. Turn and cook another 10 minutes until the skin is golden. The chicken is fully cooked when the breasts reach 160°F (71°C) at their thickest part, and the legs and thighs reach 165°F (74°C), or when the juices run clear. Transfer to a platter and serve.