Eggplant and So Much More
A market mosaic of the freshest herbs and vegetables in Kalkan
Turkey is paradise for vegetarians. At every meal, from northern Cyprus in the Mediterranean Sea to the Kaçkar Mountains on the Black Sea and Bodrum on the Aegean, home cooks offer an array of vegetable dishes, usually prepared with olive or sunflower oil, as well as salads and pickles. Harvested from a nearby garden or purchased at the market from local farmers, vegetables have been baked in clay pots in communal ovens for thousands of years or layered into dishes such as moussaka (shown here) and (shown here).
The vegetable perhaps most synonymous with Turkey is patli, eggplant. Botanically classified as a fruit (actually, a berry), eggplant originated in southeastern Asia, and was first cultivated in Persia. It was unknown to the Greeks and Romans, but Arab traders, the Moors, brought it to Spain. Eggplant reached great popularity in Turkey in the Middle Ages, with many of the dishes originating in the royal Ottoman kitchens. In the late eighteenth century, Thomas Jefferson introduced the eggplant, a gift of the French king Louis XIV, into his garden at Monticello, Virginia.
It was a revelation to find leeks in a variety of preparations—stuffed, broiled and stewed—on menus, particularly in Istanbul and south along the eastern Aegean and Mediterranean coasts. Braised in tomato sauce, they are common fare in neighborhood locantas across the country. While no one has been able to definitively trace the origin of the leek, records show that it has been cultivated since at least 2100 BCE in the Mediterranean region, where it was thought to have restorative powers. The Assyrians of Mesopotamia believed eating leeks would keep their hair from turning gray.
Melted Leeks in Creamy Tomato Sauce
SERVES 4 TO 6
One of our favorite ways to cook leeks is in the Turkish manner, simmered in a simple tomato sauce bright with sumac. The leeks become silky and tender while their flesh absorbs the acid-sweet flavor of the sauce, enriched with yogurt just before serving. With some warm bread, this is an elegantly simple meze that it partners well with Classic fish, chicken or lamb too.
4 to 5 medium leeks, about 6 inches (15 cm) long
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup (65 g) finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons tomato paste
11/2 cups (354 ml) water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground sumac
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped dill, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for serving
To prepare the leeks, cut off the toughest green portion of the stem, leaving 1 to 2 inches (25 to 50 mm) of tender green leaves. Slice off the base including any attached roots, leaving the bulb intact. Slice the leeks lengthwise from base to stem. Rinse thoroughly under running water to remove any grit or sand.
Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté for about 5 minutes, until soft but not brown. Stir in the tomato paste and water and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes until the sauce thickens to the consistency of light cream. If the mixture becomes too thick, thin with additional water 1 tablespoon at a time. Stir in the salt, pepper and sumac.
Put the leek halves into the tomato mixture, spooning the sauce evenly over them. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes until the leeks are tender and easily pierced with a fork.
Remove the leeks from the pan and place on a warm serving plate. Cover and set aside while finishing the sauce.
Combine the yogurt and lemon juice in a bowl, then stir 1 tablespoon of the hot tomato sauce into the mixture to temper the yogurt. Stir the yogurt mixture back into the sauce in the pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pour the sauce over the leeks and sprinkle with the dill. Serve warm with the lemon wedges.
◁ Eggs Cooked in Sweet Peppers, Onions and Tomatoes (Menemen)
SERVES 4
“My friends are eager to meet you,” says Faruk. On the streets of Trabzon, we pass fast food joints called Kebab Island and Chickenland and dart down an alley, stopping in front of a metal door next to a shoe shop. Faruk swings open the door and hurries us upstairs where we meet half-Canadian, half-Turkish Miriam, head teacher at the Grand Basic School of English, who insists that we join her and her students for lunch.
In a small galley kitchen, Miriam sautés tomatoes and peppers, their scent wafting into a nearby classroom where her students spread sheets of newspaper over a long table. Moments later, she emerges holding an oversized cast-iron skillet steaming with one of our favorite dishes: menemen, a Turkish comfort food made with tomatoes, peppers and onions with eggs nestled in the sauce. One of the students, whose father is a baker, sets a three-foot-long loaf of bread on the table. “Please sit,” says Miriam, tearing off pieces of bread and passing them around the table. The students dig in and we follow their lead, using the bread to break into the custardy yolks.
Menemen has become a regular weekend breakfast in our homes. We like to kick up the heat by adding finely chopped jalapeño pepper, but Aleppo or cayenne pepper work well, too. Serve this with Classic Puffed Pide Bread for sopping up the juices.
2 red bell peppers
1 yellow or green bell pepper
1 medium onion
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
11/2 cups (250 g) chopped tomatoes with their juice, or 1 (14.5-ounce / 411-g) can diced tomatoes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1/2 cup (120 ml) water, divided
8 large eggs
Core and seed the peppers and thinly slice them lengthwise. Slice the onion in half and then into thin half moons.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the peppers, onions and garlic, if using. Stir to coat the vegetables with oil and sauté about 5 minutes, until wilted and beginning to brown.
Stir in the tomatoes, salt, black pepper and Aleppo pepper. Add 1/4 cup (60 ml) water and continue to cook for about 5 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and juices begin to simmer.
Reduce the heat to medium low. Use a spoon to create pockets in the vegetable mixture. Break an egg into a small bowl and then slide it into a pocket; repeat until all the eggs are in the skillet. Add up to 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water if needed to steam the eggs. Cover the pan and cook until the egg whites are opaque but the yolks are still soft, 3 to 4 minutes depending upon preference.
Remove the skillet from the stove and set it on a trivet in the center of the table. Serve immediately with chunks of Classic Puffed Pide Bread.
Note: Two smaller skillets may be used. Divide the vegetables in half and cook 4 eggs in each skillet.
◁ Black Sea Fondue (Kuymak) with Roasted Winter Vegetables
SERVES 4 TO 6
Aspecialty of Turkey’s Black Sea region, the sensuous fondue called kuymak is a dish best shared with friends. In fact, our friend Necat first served this to us on a cold evening in Trabzon while a north wind howled outside his high-rise apartment and the lights of ships and tankers blinked like stars on a nearly invisible sea.
At the stove, Necat stirred a mixture of butter and cornmeal. When a glistening layer of butter rose to the surface, he thinned the mixture with white wine and water, and added a shredded local cow’s milk cheese similar to Armenian string cheese. The three of us sat at a card table in the living room, the pot of kuymak between us, with a bottle of Georgian wine and one of the Black Sea area’s famous oversized loaves of airy bread for dipping.
Here at home, we relish kuymak as a comfort food, a polenta-esque fondue made with finely ground cornmeal. Encourage guests to spear the vegetables on forks and dip directly into the pot. As a side dish, divide the fondue among serving plates and arrange some of the vegetables on top.
1 cup (135 g) cauliflower florets
1 cup (90 g) brussels sprouts, trimmed, large sprouts cut in half
2 large carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into 11/2-inch (38-mm) pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 cup (110 g) fontina or mozzarella cheese, or 1/2 cup (55 g) fontina plus 1/2 cup (56 g) Armenian string cheese
1/2 cup (115 g / 1 stick) butter
1/2 cup (90 g) finely ground cornmeal
11/2 cups (354 ml) water, or 1/2 cup (120 ml) white wine plus 1 cup (236 ml) water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Heat the oven to 450°F (232°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment or a Silpat.
Put the cauliflower, brussels sprouts and carrots in a medium bowl. Toss the vegetables with the olive oil, salt and paprika to coat and spread them on the baking sheet in a single layer. Roast for 20 minutes, turning once for even browning.
While the vegetables are roasting, prepare the fondue. Cut the fontina into 2-inch (5-cm) cubes. If using string cheese, use your fingers to pull it apart into strips.
Over moderately high heat, melt the butter in a medium heavy saucepan. When the butter begins to foam, reduce the heat to low and whisk in the cornmeal. Stir while cooking for 3 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to brown.
Gradually whisk in the water, 1/2 cup (120 ml) at a time, and add the salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 5 minutes. The mixture will release a layer of butter on top. Keep stirring the butter in and throughout the cornmeal.
Stir in the cheese, allowing it to melt into the buttery cornmeal. The mixture should lift from the spoon in creamy ribbons. When the cheese has melted, remove from the heat. Grate the nutmeg on top. Serve the fondue immediately from the pan with the roasted vegetables and crusty bread.
Kuymak on the meze table in Artvin, near the Georgian border
Simmered Eggplant with Mushrooms and Walnuts, Ottoman Style
SERVES 6
On a crisp fall day, we visited the Karyie Museum with its treasure trove of late Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul’s Chora neighborhood. Afterward, we moved through history, so to speak, and sat down in a nearby Asitane restaurant to try a classic Ottoman dish, eggplants roasted with mushrooms. Inspired by the book Bir Ziyafet Rehberi’ (Guide to a Feast) published in 1539, Asitane is one of the first restaurants to search for and recreate long-forgotten Ottoman recipes. Back in our own kitchens, we recreated the dish, adding cinnamon to the spice blend in a nod to Persian influences in the Ottoman kitchen. Walnuts add a textural counterpoint to the soft vegetables. Note that the eggplant is not peeled.
Serve warm with basmati rice or Rice Pilaf with Fresh Herbs and Classic Puffed Pide Bread.
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
11/2 pounds (682 g) globe eggplant, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch (25-mm) cubes (about 5 cups / 400 g)
1 cup (236 ml) vegetable stock or water
1/2 pound (58 g) cremini or baby portobello mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup (60 g) coarsely chopped walnuts
1/4 cup (9 g) chopped parsley
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped basil
Freshly ground black pepper
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the cumin, paprika, cinnamon and salt. Stir and cook until the spices release a sweet and nutty aroma, about 1 minute.
Add the eggplants, stir to coat with the spices and cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the vegetable stock and bring to a boil.
Stir in the mushrooms and return the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to simmer, cover the pot and cook until the eggplants and mushrooms are tender and the sauce is silky, about 30 minutes. Check and stir the mixture occasionally, adding broth or water as necessary to maintain a saucelike coating.
Heat the remaining tablespoon of butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the walnuts to the pan. Reduce the heat to low and toast, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, taking care not to let them burn. Add the walnuts to the vegetables along with the parsley and basil. Finish with a grind of black pepper.
Spice-Route Moussaka
SERVES 6 TO 8
This vegetarian recipe is based on the classic Anatolian dish. Slices of roasted eggplant and cumin-spiced carrots are layered with a zesty tomato sauce and topped with creamy Béchamel Sauce with Parmesan Cheese. The vegetables and sauce can be made a day ahead then the dish can be assembled and baked to bubbling perfection.
Serve with a simple salad on the side, like Grilled Romaine with Anchovy Vinaigrette and String Cheese.
FOR THE VEGETABLES
2 to 3 Italian eggplants (about 3 pounds / 1,400 g), unpeeled
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1/4 cup (60 ml) plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds (910 g) large carrots
1 tablespoon ground cumin
FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup (44 g) finely chopped poblano pepper
1 (28-ounce / 794-g) can diced tomatoes with their juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine or water
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup (13 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 recipe Béchamel Sauce with Parmesan Cheese
Heat the oven to 400°F (204°C) and line 2 large baking sheets with parchment. Cut the unpeeled eggplants crosswise into 1/2-inch (13-mm) thick slices. Place in layers in a large colander, sprinkling each layer with the salt. Let the eggplants sit for 30 to 60 minutes to release their liquid and prevent excess water in the finished casserole.
Rinse the eggplant slices with cold water and pat dry. Brush each side of the slices with 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil and place on the prepared baking sheets in a single layer. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, flip, and then roast for another 10 to 15 minutes until the eggplant is tender but not too soft. Remove the eggplants from baking sheets and set aside.
Line the baking sheets with fresh parchment. Peel and thinly slice the carrots on the diagonal to create large slices. Put on the baking sheets and add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the cumin. Toss to coat well and spread the carrots in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets. Roast the carrots for 30 minutes or until soft but not browned.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C).
To make the sauce: Put a heavy pot over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Add the onions and sauté until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and poblano peppers and sauté for 5 minutes more. Add the diced tomatoes and their juice, tomato paste and wine, then stir in the cinnamon, Aleppo pepper, salt and black pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Add the sugar and parsley; season to taste and simmer for another 15 minutes. The sauce should be somewhat thick and chunky; if you prefer a smoother sauce, process with an immersion blender.
Make the Béchamel Sauce with Parmesan Cheese (recipe follows) and keep warm.
Evenly distribute a thin layer of the tomato sauce in the bottom of a 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-cm) casserole dish. Place a third of the eggplant slices in a single layer over the sauce, and a third of the carrot slices on top of the eggplant. Spoon a third of the tomato sauce over the carrots. Repeat the layering process twice more with the remaining ingredients, ending with the tomato sauce.
Evenly spoon the béchamel sauce over the dish to cover and spread evenly across the top. Bake the moussaka for 1 hour, until the tomato sauce bubbles and top is slightly browned.
Let the moussaka sit for about 15 minutes before cutting.
Note: To make this dish vegan, omit the Béchamel Sauce with Parmesan Cheese and add 2 tomatoes, sliced. Layer on the top and sprinkle with 1/4 cup (13 g) chopped parsley, then proceed with the recipe. For a meat version, sauté 3/4 pound (340 g) ground lamb, beef or turkey in a medium saucepan to 10 to 15 minutes, until just cooked and nicely browned. Drain off any fat and stir the meat into the tomato sauce just before assembling the moussaka.
Béchamel Sauce with Parmesan Cheese
MAKES 21/2 CUPS (591 ml)
Béchamel sauce first appeared in chef François Pierre La Varenne’s eponymous cookbook in 1651. At the Topkapı Palace in Istanbul, a guide told us that béchamel was perfected during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, who ruled the Ottoman Empire during its Golden Age from 1494 to 1566, and was admired for his refined palate.
3 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons (31 g) all-purpose flour
2 cups (473 ml) milk, warmed
1/4 cup (25 g) plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 large egg
Over medium heat, melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour and stir vigorously until smooth. Cook 2 to 3 more minutes, stirring continuously so the roux does not begin to brown.
Slowly add half the milk, stirring to avoid lumps. Add the remaining milk and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the cheese, nutmeg and pepper.
In a small mixing bowl, lightly beat the egg. Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the sauce into the beaten egg, stirring all the while to warm up the egg. Add the egg mixture to the saucepan and whisk until fully incorporated.
The Imam Fainted (İmam Bayıldı)
SERVES 6
First-time visitors to Istanbul walking past cafeteria-style restaurants on the touristic Divanyolu, or Divine Road, in the Sultanhamet district, or across the Golden Horn along ıstiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu, always comment on the trays of glistening eggplants stuffed with tomatoes and sliced onions in the windows. They’re a Turkish comfort-food classic for good reason, and yield one of the very best leftovers we know. Serve alongside Bulgur Pilaf with Fresh Herbs.
3 medium or 6 small Italian eggplants (about 41/2 pounds / 2 kg)
1/4 teaspoon sunflower or grapeseed oil
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups (230 g) peeled and diced fresh tomatoes, or 1 (15-ounce / 425-g) can diced tomatoes, drained
1/2 cup (25 g) roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided
1/4 cup (13 g) chopped dill
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup (158 ml) olive oil, divided
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Flaky sea salt, for serving (optional)
Lemon wedges, for serving
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Peel the eggplants in stripes, leaving on about half the skin. Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise, keeping the stems and base intact. If the eggplants have a lot of seeds, scoop some of them out.
Heat 1/3 cup (79 ml) olive oil in a large sauté pan over moderately high heat. Add the eggplants in 2 batches if necessary, turning to soften and brown on all sides. Add 1 tablespoon more oil if the pan becomes dry. Transfer to drain on a paper towel–lined platter.
Add more oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the onions and garlic and cook until soft, but not brown. Add the tomatoes, all but 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the dill, salt and pepper. Cook just until heated through, about 2 to 3 minutes.
Place the eggplant halves, cut side up, in a baking dish large enough to hold them all, squeezing them together if necessary. Spoon the onion-tomato mixture on top of each half. Pour the remaining 1/3 cup (79 ml) olive oil evenly over the eggplants and follow with the lemon juice. Sprinkle the sugar on top.
Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for about 1 hour. Check to see that the eggplants are soft. If not, continuing baking, checking at 5-minute intervals. If the eggplants have released too much liquid, remove the foil and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes. The eggplants should be soft enough to cut with a fork.
Transfer the eggplants to a serving platter or individual plates and sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if desired, and the reserved tablespoon of parsley. Arrange the lemon wedges around the edges of the platter.
A time-honored method for preserving eggplants is to hang them in the sun.