MARCO POLO Paris

The terrace at Les Deux Magots is rather like a box at the theatre: guests can observe passers-by while relaxing comfortably. Opposite the café is the church, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of the oldest in Paris. Down Rue Bonaparte, but also on other streets in this district you’ll find a variety of galleries, antique dealers, up-market fabric shops, cafés and restaurants. Follow the Rue de l’Abbaye down to the church and the romantic, tree-lined Place de Furstemberg, where the artists Eugène Delacroix had his studio. Turn right at Rue Jacob, which leads to the animated Rue de Seine. Once there, you can take a break on the much-frequented terrace at La Palette. Proceed further to Rue Jacques Callot, then to the right at Rue Mazarine (later Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie), over the Boulevard Saint-Germain at the Rue de l’Odéon. Past the neo-Classical Théatre de l’Odéon you’ll reach the Jardin du Luxembourg, one of the most popular parks in Paris. The Palais du Luxembourg, modeled after the Florentine Palazzo Pitti, is an ideal place for a rest by the water or the shaded Fontaine de Médicis .

Opposite the main entrance, on busy Boulevard Saint-Michel with its many street cafés, the Rue Soufflot leads to the domed Panthéon, a mausoleum honouring many French luminaries. The narrow lanes winding up the Montagne Saint-Geneviève are part of the oldest area that was settled in Paris. The Rue Malebranche, following the course of an entrenchment along a city wall dating from the Middle Ages, the Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques and the Place de l’Estrapade with trees, benches and a fountain exude the tranquility of a provincial town. Nearby Sorbonne University , the Collège de France as well as some of the most elite schools in the country, including the Lycée Henri IV, the École Polytechnique and the École Normale Supérieure, constitute a significant centre of intellectual life in the city. Walk down the Rue Laromiguière, the Rue Amyot and Rue Tournefort into the Rue Lohmond and then left into the narrow Passage des Postes, where it is noticeably livelier. A flamboyant market with a selection of good grocery stores is in the lower section of the vibrant and very old Rue Mouffetard. Further up, you will notice that the ‘Mouff’ gets more touristy. At the very end of the street is the Place de la Contrescarpe, a popular meeting place with a variety of cafés. Ernest Hemingway lived on the attractive Rue du Cardinal Lemoine (no. 74) in the beginning of the 1920s.

From the Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, the Rue Rollin branches off with its crooked old houses. Down the steps and across the Rue Mongefolgen to the left you’ll see the Arènes de Lutèce, a Roman amphitheatre that was only excavated in19th century and is now a children’s playground. Now turn right onto the Rue Linné (which turns into Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire further down), and you have several options for completing the tour: the spectacular gallery at the lovely Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle, a visit to the gardens and greenhouses in the Jardin des Plantes or total relaxation at the Mosquée de Paris, with its hamam and tea salon, Café Maure.

Montmartre, crowned by the dazzling Sacré-Cœur, can be seen from many vantage points in the city. At one time, many artists lived and worked here. Today, most artists can no longer afford the steep rents asked in this district. However, Montmartre has retained is village-like character which you’ll experience first-hand during the two to three-hour round trip.

The sex trade flourishes around the Blanche Métro station and, in its midst, is the Moulin Rouge, whose dance performances have made it one of the most popular tourist attractions. By contrast, the Rue Lépic, with its winding contours and traditional grocery shops has retained its folksy character. It was on this street that the film ‘Amélie’ was filmed. The Rue des Abbesses is abuzz with activity day and night with its stores and cafés. At the trendy bar Sancerre (No. 35), younger tourists mingle with the locals. The smaller Rue Burq is a quieter option if you prefer to avoid the crowds.

Now turn left onto the Rue Durantinab and take in the village atmosphere of the winding Rue Tholozé. Two old mills stand at the upper end. In one of them, which was converted into a dance hall in the 19th century, Auguste Renoir, among other artists, used to paint. His famous painting of from the area, ‘Moulin de la Galette’, is one of the most expensive works of art in the world. Now you have arrived at the restaurant Moulin de la Galette, one of the favourite places of the celebrated singer Dalida who, for a long time, lived only a few yards from the Rue d’Orchampt (no. 11). To the left around the corner, on the shaded Rue Junot, you’ll notice many small, pretty houses. The writer Tristan Tzara lived in number 15. This architecturally stunning house was built by none other than the famous architect Adolf Loos, a pioneer of the Bauhaus movement. Don’t miss the verdant rooftop garden which has a terrific view over Paris. It’s no wonder this street is one of the most expensive in the city.

Through the Rue Dereure and via a small flight of stairs on the Place Casadesus, you’ll pass the gardens and the Château des Brouillards and reach the Place Dalida with a statue of the Egyptian-Italian singer. The Rue de l’Abreuvoir spirals up an incline lined with small, crooked houses – and a small vineyard. The grape harvest which takes place every year in October is an occasion to celebrate (see p. 111). The painter Maurice Utrillo lived in the Maison Rose on the corner (no. 2). A few feet further down is the famous cabaret Au Lapin Agile, which belonged to the singer Aristide Bruant, and whose landlord supported many still unknown and poor artists at the time. A bit further up the street, in a house dating back to the 17th century, you’ll find the

Musée du Montmartre (12, rue Cortot) which recounts the story of the artists of Montmartre.

By way of the Rue Saint-Vincent you approach the Sacré-Cœur. from behind, which resembles a dazzling white pastry confection. a Enjoy the view of Paris from the steps at the front. The narrow lanes around the church are always jam-packed with tourists, above all at the souvenir shops and the Place du Tertre. Beware of persistent artists who want to paint your portrait.

From Rue Norvin proceed down to the Rue Gabrielle (no. 49 is where Pablo Picasso had his first studio). By means of the Rue Ravignan you reach the tree-lined Place Emile Goudeau. In a studio in a building called the Bateau-Lavoir, Picasso painted his famous Cubist painting, ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’. Below it there are numerous attractive restaurants enticing you to a meal. The narrow Passage des Abbesses branches off from the Rue des Trois Frères, where you’ll arrive at the Place des Abbesses with its beautiful Art Nouveau Métro entrance and pleasant cafés.

France’s metropolis is not a sterile museum city, as becomes evident during the three- to four-hour walk through the lively streets and lanes of the Quartier Latin and the Marais district. You will not find as many bars, cafés and restaurants anywhere other than in Marais, a district that had fallen into disrepair until the 1960s but whose imposing aristocratic residences are now home to several museums.

The small park in the shadows of the Roman spas around the Musée de Cluny is an ideal place for relaxing on a sunny day. The other side of the very busy Boulevard Saint-Germain marks the beginning of a labyrinth of medieval streets around the flamboyant Gothic church Saint-Séverin. One of its most distinguishing features is its five-aisled nave and its double row of pillars around the apse. Between the plant-like ribbed network of the vaulted ceiling, the brilliant colours of the modern stained glass windows can be admired. These inspired no less than Robert Delaunay to his Cubist compositions. The district’s small, attractive cafés entice you to tarry awhile, but there are also many restaurants vying for tourists. The Rue Saint-Séverins leads to the nearby Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre dating back to the mid-12th century, the oldest church in Paris. The adjacent park, the Square Viviani, is a perfect spot to sit and take in the fantastic view of Notre-Dame.

The tourist commotion starts around Notre-Dame cathedral. But despite this, the sight of passing boats on the Seine, sun-worshippers lolling around on the banks and the second-hand books at the Bouquinistes are a pleasure to behold. Take a pretty walk past Notre-Dame through a park. On the other side of the cathedral a small vestige of the maze of winding alleys remains, most of which were removed by the city planner Baron Haussmann in the 19th century. The Île de la Cité is the oldest section of the city. You can watch musicians giving jam sessions across the bridge to the Île Saint-Louis, especially at weekends, as well as acrobats displaying their tricks. This smaller island was long uninhabited and since it was largely populated by cows it was named ‘Île aux vaches’. The island was only built on in the 17th century and is now one of the city’s most prestigious addresses. The Rue Saint-Louis-en-Île and its attractive shops invite you to go on a spree. Amorino boasts the best ice cream in Paris.

The Pont Marie leads directly to the Marais district. Directly to the right, at the beginning of the Rue des Nonnains d’Hyères, you’ll notice the fortified, Late Gothic Hôtel de Sens. Some of the small streets have retained their character from that era, for instance the Rue François Miron with its two half-timbered houses and the Hôtel du

Beauvais (no. 68), where Mozart once resided. Now take the Rue Charlemagne, past the remains of a tower and parts of the city wall from the 13th century. In the courtyard labyrinth of Village Saint-Paul and its 60 antique dealers, you can stop to rummage through old furniture, paintings, crockery and lamps.

Further left is the Rue Saint-Paul which leads to the Passage Saint-Paul where you’ll come across the side entrance to the three-storey, large-domed Baroque church Saint-Paul. Traffic flows past the main entrance along the Rue Saint-Antoine. Turn left a bit further ahead onto the Rue Caron in the direction of the Bastille, where you arrive at the romantic Place du Marché Sainte-Cathérine with sycamore trees and cafés. From the Rue Turenne and to the right you’ll reach the busy Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, characterised by the beautiful residences of the nobility as well as boutiques, before ultimately arriving at the regal Place des Vosges, one of the most scenic squares in the city.

This area has a large Jewish population. On Friday evenings, Orthodox Jews go to the synagogue in traditional costume. The park Square Léopold Achille is located at the end of the of the attractive Rue Payenne and, to the left on the Rue Thorigny, is the Musée Picasso (closed until Spring 2013). Relax next door in the invitingly comfortable leather armchairs at the café L’Apparemment on the Rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais.

Photo: Café de Flore

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THE INTELLECTUAL CENTRE OF PARIS

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE MONTMARTRE ARTISTS

Sacré-Cœur Basilica on Montmartre with Paris at its feet

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THE ISLANDS ON THE SEINE AND MARAIS

Les Bouquinistes: the book stalls on the banks of the Seine are a famous component of the cityscape