Cyclades

Why Go?

On a quest to find the Greek islands of your dreams? Start, here, in the Cyclades (Κυκλάδες). Rugged, sun-drenched outcrops of rock, anchored in azure seas and liberally peppered with snow-white villages and blue-domed churches, this is Greece straight from central casting, with stellar archaeological sites and dozens of postcard-worthy beaches. Throw in a blossoming food scene, some renowned party destinations and a good dose of sophistication, and you really do have the best of Greece’s ample charms.

The biggest surprise may be the variety found within this island group. Chase hedonism on Mykonos or Ios, history on Delos, hiking trails on Andros or Amorgos. Want a romantic break? Try Santorini. To escape reality? Pick Donousa or Anafi. You can ferry-hop to your heart’s content, enjoy long, lazy lunches at waterside tavernas, or simply lay claim to a sunbed by a spectacular beach. You’re living the dream.

When to Go

AApr–Jun Catch the early-season sun without overheating, and boats without overcrowding.

AJul & Aug Pros: sun, sea and sand, plus balmy nights and lively company. Cons: peak crowds and prices.

ASep & Oct Quieter beaches, open spaces, the sweet scent of herbs and great walks on island hills.

Best Places to Eat

A Doukato

A M-Eating

A Captain Dimos

A Cayenne

A Theoni's Kitchen

A O Ntinos

Best Places to Stay

A Red Tractor Farm

A Pension Sofi

A Windmill of Karamitsos

A Stelios Place

A Francesco's

Cyclades Highlights

1 Santorini (Thira) Being mesmerised by the dramatic volcanic cliffs and coastline.

2 Ancient Delos Immersing yourself in this spellbinding archaeological site.

3 Folegandros Wandering the leafy streets of atmospheric Hora.

4 Mykonos Partying until dawn on this glamorous, fun-filled island.

5 Naxos Exploring quaint villages then reclining on the fine white sand.

6 Milos Sunning yourself on stone cliffs or lazing in sandy coves.

7 Amorgos Marvelling at the dazzling monastery that clings to a cliffside.

8 Tinos Exploring marble villages and gorgeous dovecote valleys.

9 Small Cyclades Slipping away to serenity on these remote-feeling islands.

a Anafi Enjoying a slow-paced traditional lifestyle on this far-flung isle.

History

The Cyclades are said to have been inhabited since at least 7000 BC. Around 3000 BC there emerged a cohesive Cycladic civilisation that was bound together by seagoing commerce and exchange. During the Early Cycladic period (3000–2000 BC), the tiny but distinctive Cycladic marble figurines, mainly stylised representations of the naked female form, were sculpted. Recent discoveries on Keros, an uninhabited island near Koufonisia in the Small Cyclades, indicate that the island was a possible pilgrimage site where figurines that had been broken up as part of rituals were deposited.

In the Middle Cycladic period (2000–1500 BC), many of the islands were occupied by the Minoans, who probably colonised from Crete. At Akrotiri, on Santorini, a Minoan town has been excavated, and artefacts from the site have all the distinctive beauty of those from Crete’s Minoan palaces. At the beginning of the Late Cycladic period (1500–1100 BC), the archipelago came under the influence of the Mycenaeans of the Peloponnese, who were supplanted by northern Dorians in the 8th century BC.

By the mid-5th century BC the Cyclades were part of a fully fledged Athenian empire. In the Hellenistic era (323–146 BC), they were governed by Egypt’s Ptolemaic dynasties, and later by the Macedonians. In 146 BC the islands became a Roman province, and lucrative trade links were established with many parts of the Mediterranean.

The division of the Roman Empire in AD 395 resulted in the Cyclades being ruled from Byzantium (Constantinople), but after the fall of Byzantium in 1204, they came under a Venetian authority that doled out the islands to opportunistic aristocrats. The most powerful of these was Marco Sanudo (the self-styled Venetian Duke of Naxos), who acquired a dozen of the larger islands – including Naxos, Paros, Ios, Sifnos, Milos, Amorgos and Folegandros – introducing a Venetian gloss that survives to this day in island architecture.

The Cyclades came under Turkish rule in 1537, although the empire had difficulty in managing, let alone protecting, such scattered dependencies. Cycladic coastal settlements suffered frequent pirate raids, a scourge that led to many villages being relocated to hidden inland sites. They survive as the ‘Horas’ (capitals, also often written as 'Chora') that are such an attractive feature of the islands today. Ottoman neglect, piracy and shortages of food and water often led to wholesale depopulation of more remote islands, and in 1563 only five islands were still inhabited.

The Cyclades played a minimal part in the Greek War of Independence, but became havens for people fleeing from other islands where insurrections against the Turks had led to massacres and persecution. Italian forces occupied the Cyclades during WWII. After the war, the islands emerged more economically deprived than ever. Many islanders lived in deep poverty, while many more gave up the struggle and headed to the mainland, or to America and Australia, in search of work.

The tourism boom that began in the 1970s revived the fortunes of the Cyclades. The challenge remains, however, of finding alternative and sustainable economies that will not mar the beauty and appeal of these remarkable islands.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Of the 24 Cyclades islands, six have airports – Mykonos, Syros, Paros, Naxos, Santorini and Milos – all with daily links to Athens. Some have direct links with European cities in summer (charter flights, plus scheduled services to Mykonos and Santorini). There are rarely direct links between islands, so to fly from Mykonos to Santorini, you'll almost certainly need to go via Athens.

Boat

The key to sculpting an itinerary through the islands is knowing which ferries go where – and when they're going. The peak ferry services run in July and August, but in winter services are reduced or nonexistent on some routes.

A host of companies offer connections throughout the Cyclades. They depart from the main ports of Attica: Piraeus (the largest port, with services to most islands), Rafina (particularly good for Mykonos, Andros and Tinos) and Lavrio (for Kythnos and Kea).

Three extremely useful websites are:

http://ferries.gr For checking dates and times, and buying tickets online.

www.ferriesingreece.com/live-boat-traffic.htm See ferry locations in real time and check if they are likely to turn up on time.

www.vesselfinder.com If you know your ferry's name, check here to see where it is.

Andros ΑΝΔΡΟΣ

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Andros, the second-largest island of the Cyclades, has a long and proud seafaring tradition and, conversely, is a walker’s paradise. Its wild mountains are cleaved by fecund valleys with bubbling streams and ancient stone mills. A lush island, springs tend to be a feature of each village, and waterfalls cascade down hillsides most of the year. It’s worth renting a car to get out to the footpaths, many of them stepped and cobbled, which will lead you through majestic landscapes and among wildflowers and archaeological remnants. The handsome main town of Hora, also known as Andros, is a shipowners’ enclave packed with neoclassical mansions.

8Getting There & Away

Reach Andros from the mainland port of Rafina via regular ferries that continue south to Tinos and Mykonos. Direct services run to/from Syros a few times a week, from where easy onward links can be made (or you can reach Syros daily, by changing ferry in Tinos).

Buy tickets at Ploes Travel in Hora or Batsi Travel in Gavrio.

Boat Services from Andros

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Kea	6hr	13	Thu
Kythnos	4¾hr	18	Thu
Mykonos	2½hr	18-19	2-4 daily
Naxos	3¾-4hr	26-28	daily
Rafina	2hr	22-23	2-4 daily
Syros	2hr	12	Thu
Tinos	1½-2hr	12-17	2-4 daily

8Getting Around

KTEL Andros ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22316) has up to nine buses daily (fewer on weekends) linking Gavrio and Hora (€4, 55 minutes) via Batsi (€2, 15 minutes), and Gavrio and Korthi (€5, 1¼ hours, two to three daily). Schedules are posted at the bus stops in Gavrio and Hora. Low-season buses are usually timed to meet Rafina ferries.

Taxis (%Batsi 22820 41081, Gavrio 22820 71561, Hora 22820 22171) from Gavrio to Batsi cost about €12, and to Hora €40.

Roads can be rough and narrow, but many walking paths and sights are only accessible by car. Escape in Andros ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 29120; www.escapeinandros.gr) can arrange to meet you at the port with a rental car (from about €40 per day in August, €25 in low season). There are a couple of scooter and ATV rental agencies on the waterfront in Gavrio.

Gavrio Γαύριο

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Sleepy Gavrio on the west coast is the main port of Andros. The waterfront is lined with services (ATMs, ticket agencies, car and scooter hire), but the town isn’t the most interesting part of the island to base yourself – there are some stretches of beach to the south (en route to Batsi) that are considerably more appealing.

4Sleeping & Eating

Standard tavernas line Gavrio’s waterfront. Gavrio is used as the jumping-off point to visit Andros' most celebrated restaurant in the north part of the island.

Andros CampingCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 71444; www.campingandros.gr; campsite per adult/tent/car €7/4/4; hMay-Sep; s)

A rustic site set among olive trees about 400m behind the harbour. Follow the signs from the road to Batsi, turning at the Escape in Andros travel agency.

Allegria Family HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 72110; www.allegria-andros.com; Agios Petros Beach; d/f €75/85; hApr-Sep; aW)

Nicely geared to families and close to the beach at Agios Petros, a few kilometres south of Gavrio. Studios have kitchenettes, and some have bunks added for kids, all set in a pretty garden.

8Information

There's a full range of services along the waterfront, including three ATMs and two banks.

Kyklades Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 72363; h9am-9pm) and Batsi Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 71489; h9am-9pm) sell ferry tickets and can arrange accommodation.

Batsi Μπατσί

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Batsi lies 7km southeast of Gavrio on the overbuilt shores of a handsome bay with a long beige-sand beach. The island’s main resort, it revs up through July and August. A couple of good, short hiking trails start from town.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cavo D’OroGUESTHOUSE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 41776; www.andros-cavodoro.gr; d €50; aW)

The handful of simple, pleasant rooms here are excellent value. It’s located above a restaurant across the road from the beach.

Krinos Suites HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 42038; www.krinoshotel.com; ste incl breakfast from €180; hlate May–Sep; aW)

One of Andros’ high-end entries, housing nine well-kitted-out suites and a smart ‘art cafe’. Some rooms have sea-view balconies.

oThemelosCYCLADIC€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 29426; www.facebook.com/themelosandros; Dionisiou; dishes €5-8; h10am-3pm & 7pm-1am; W)

Head up the stairs from the waterfront to find this delightful little cafe tucked away on a tiny pedestrian street. Works by local artists liven up the interior, and the menu is full of local mezedhes – smoked baby mackerel, slightly fermented local kopanisti cheese, locally made sausage, wild artichokes. Wash it down with a sour cherry juice.

Stamatis TavernaGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 41283; mains €7-17; hnoon-11pm; W)

Next to the harbour, this restaurant’s interior is a charming time warp, and the food is renowned for its authenticity: Andros lamb and stuffed chicken are specialities, as is the fresh fish. Reserve ahead for the Wednesday night slow-cooked lamb.

8Information

Greek Sun Holidays ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 41198; www.andros-greece.com) Arranges accommodation, car hire, ferry tickets and island walks and excursions.

Hora (Andros) Χώρα (Ανδρος)

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Hora perches dramatically on a rocky promontory and has surprising views through the neoclassical mansions to two vibrant bays on either side: Niborio and Paraporti. The peninsula is tipped by the remains of a Venetian fortress, and the town itself owes its grand mansions and squares to both the Venetian settlement and the shipowners who came to inhabit it. Hora’s cultural pedigree is burnished by its Museum of Contemporary Art, an impressive archaeological museum and several important churches.

1Sights

oMuseum of Contemporary ArtMUSEUM

(MOCA; GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22444; www.moca-andros.gr; summer/rest of year €5/3; h11am-3pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sun, 11am-3pm Mon Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm Wed-Mon Apr-Jun & Oct, 10am-2pm Sat-Mon Nov-Mar)

MOCA has earned a reputation in the international art world for its outstanding summer exhibitions of world-famous artists. Split across two buildings, exhibits have included the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec and Miró. The sculpture gallery features prominent Greek artists, and a summertime sea-view cafe offers homemade sweets. Find it down the steps (signposted) from Plateia Kaïri.

Andros Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 23664; Plateia Kaïri; adult/child €3/free; h9am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Here you can peruse the exquisite 2nd-century BC marble copy of the bronze Hermes of Andros by Praxiteles, and impressive finds from the 9th- to 5th-century BC settlements of Zagora and Paleopoli on Andros’ west coast.

Afanis NaftisMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Riva)

The huge bronze sailor, donated by the Soviet Union, stands in the square at the tip of the promontory and celebrates Hora’s seagoing traditions.

Venetian FortressRUINS

( GOOGLE MAP )

The picturesque ruins of a Venetian fortress stand on an island linked to the tip of the headland by the worn remnants of an arched stone bridge. Don't attempt to scramble over in the manner of locals.

4Sleeping

oAnemomiloi StudiosAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 24084; www.anemomiloi.gr; d/q from €95/105; aWs)

This popular complex of bright, spic-and-span studios, split between two buildings, sits at the southern end of town enjoying views over green fields from all its balconies. There’s friendly, helpful service from the owners, and a quiet poolside patio. Off-peak rates drop considerably.

Camara HomesAPARTMENT€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6972028853; Empeirikou; apt from €60; aW)

Towards the Venetian fortress along the main drag, this is an attractive handful of apartments, with sea views and spyglasses for peering at the horizon. The split-level ones with tiny roof terraces are the most appealing.

Micra AngliaBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22207; www.micra-anglia.gr; Goulandri 13; d/tr/ste incl breakfast from €117/198/270; hMay-Oct; aW)

Hora’s five-star offering has a raft of chic amenities and stylish decor in neutral shades, as well as Hora's most imaginative restaurant. Discounts available online.

Archontiko EleniBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22270; www.archontikoeleni.gr; Empirikou 9; s/d incl breakfast €85/100; aW)

Snuggle into comfy beds in this eight-room neoclassical mansion, which boasts high ceilings and classy decor, including original timber floors from the 1890s.

5Eating

Hora’s main street is lined with a dazzling array of zaharoplasteia (patisseries) and traditional tavernas, with a couple more by the sea. The town's high-end fusion restaurant is inside the Micra Anglia hotel.

Ta SkalakiaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22822; mains €8-12; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; W)

Tables spill down the eponymous stairs from this buttercup-yellow restaurant. Inside feels more like a bistro, with quaint bric-a-brac. There’s a short, tasty menu offering the likes of oregano-flavoured pork, meatballs and roasted feta.

I PareaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 23721; Plateia Kaïri; mains €7-13; hnoon-10pm; W)

Long-established and popular with locals, central Parea boasts a super terrace overlooking Paraporti Beach. Head inside to see what’s been freshly cooked.

oDolly's Bar RestaurantFUSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 22207; Goulandri 13; mains €16-25; h7.30pm-late; aW)

In the basement of the Micra Anglia hotel, this is the most stylish and imaginative restaurant in town. Go for tabbouleh topped with grilled giant prawns or the impeccably grilled steak.

EndochoraCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 23207; www.endochora.com; Empirikou; mains €9-17; hnoon-10pm May–mid-Sep, weekends only rest of year; W)

Endochora is a stylish hotspot on the main drag, offering a fresh twist on Greek classics and a great vantage point for people-watching. Salads showcase prime local produce like capers, tomatoes, figs and cheeses. It was under refurbishment on our last visit.

8Information

The pedestrianised marble main street, leading downhill to the Venetian kastro (fortress), is lined with numerous banks.

See http://andros.gr/en for more info.

Ploes Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 29220; Empirikou; h9am-1pm & 3-9pm) Can arrange guided hikes and scooter and car rental. Also sells ferry tickets.

Around Andros

It’s well worth renting a car or scooter to explore Andros’ vast mountains and sprinkling of picturesque villages. Its mountain drives are panorama-filled.

The north of the island, with the lush watershed around Arni, gives way to raw, windswept hills as the road zigzags to Vourkoti and Agios Nikolaou with its sweeping views.

Paleopoli, 7km south of Batsi on the coast road, is the site of Ancient Andros and its sunken harbour. Only rubble remains but the small roadside Archaeological Museum of Paleopoli ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22829 41985; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun) displays finds.

The island is cleaved by a sweeping agricultural valley, and loads of small villages with springs, often marked by marble lions’ heads and the like, surround Hora. The road winds through Sariza, Stenies, Mesathouri, Strapouries and Menites – all fun to explore.

In the south, visit quaint agricultural villages like Livadia, Kochilou, Piskopio, and Aidonia, which has ruined tower houses. The area’s charming landscape of fields and cypresses encircle Ormos Korthiou, an uninspiring bayside village.

1Sights & Activities

Walking

There are 18 wonderful waymarked trails criss-crossing Andros, which range in duration from 30 minutes to six hours, and are labelled in difficulty level from easy to average. Wear hiking boots and trekking pants, as there are some (shy) snakes.

The best investment you can make is the Andros Hiking Map (€6) published by the marvellous Andros Routes (www.androsroutes.gr) project, in conjunction with Anavasi mapping company. It’s available at bookshops and gift shops on the island. The Andros Routes website outlines the paths they maintain and has good advice for hiking on the island.

Locals recommend the areas north of Hora for great walks, including the villages of Stenies and Apikia. For a lovely short walk, Pithara is a shady glade of streams accessed from Apikia. For a longer ramble, hike up the dramatic Dipotamata Gorge, signposted as you drive inland, after Sineti (southeast of Hora). The trail is cobbled part of the way and leads past ancient bridges and water mills and through vivid foliage, water burbling below.

Better yet, book a guided walk with Trekking Andros (%22820 61368; www.trekkingandros.gr; guided walk per person from €20), a company that arranges and guides a menu of activities on the island, including hiking, mountain biking, boat trips, yoga, cooking or painting classes.

rBeaches

Between Gavrio and Paleopoli Bay excellent beaches include Golden Beach (Hrisi Ammos), Delavoia (one half of which is naturist), Anerousa, and Green Beach. Near Hora, check out lovely Gialia Beach.

Spectacular Halkolimionas – with tawny sand and a tiny church – sits 2km down a stone-terraced valley near the junction for Hora. A small beach bar sets up here in summer.

Many of the best beaches, such as Ahla, Vori and Vitali (all in the northeast), are only reached by 4WD, ATV or boat. Boat trips can usually be arranged (or boats hired) in Batsi and Nimborio.

4Sleeping

PerrakisHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 71456; www.hotelperrakis.com; Chrissi Ammos; s/d incl breakfast from €75/100; aWs)

Across the road from the sweep of Golden Beach, about 3km south of Gavrio, are super views and swell rooms – the superior rooms are lovely and have big balconies. A dive centre is based here, and there’s a restaurant. Off-peak rates can drop by 50%.

oOnar ResidenceCOTTAGE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %210 625 1052, 6932563707; www.onar-andros.gr; Ahla Beach; 3-/5-/7-person cottage €220/370/680; hMay-Oct; aW)S

Ecofriendly, unique and luxurious secluded cottages in wetlands behind the stunning remote beach at Ahla. The resort has an organic restaurant for guests. Details on how to reach the resort are on the website (access road is 4WD only; transfers can be arranged).

5Eating

GialiaGREEK€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 24452; mains €8-12; hnoon-10pm Apr-Oct; W)

A few kilometres from Hora is the delightful crystal-clear blue of Gialia Beach, where this excellent restaurant serves snacks and Greek classics to hungry beachgoers or island explorers. There's no English menu, but the waiter can give you the rundown. Try the delicious (and ample) Andros salad topped with local kopanisti cheese.

Tou JosefTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 51050; Pitrofos; mains €7-12; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

Gregarious Katerina Remoundou welcomes you to her sitting room or her tree-lined courtyard like she’s your long-lost auntie. She chats with guests as they dine on seasonal Andriot fare like cheese and onion pie or stewed kid. Meals are rustic and delicious, and ingredients all sourced locally. The restaurant is in Pitrofos village, about 7km southwest of Hora; call ahead.

oO KossisCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6972002975; Gavrion; mains €9-17; hnoon-11pm; W)

Renowned throughout Andros as the island's best 'meatery', O Kossis is located in the middle of nowhere, in the hills above Gavrio, signposted beyond Epano Fellos. Attached to stables and festooned with vines, this family-run taverna's speciality is melt-in-your-mouth lamb chops, though diners swear by their other meaty delights as well. Complimentary ouzo shot. Call ahead.

Sea Satin NinoCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22820 61196; www.facebook.com/Sea.Satin.Nino.Andros; Ormos Korthiou; mains €8-17; h7am-2am; W)

Shaded by overhanging vines on a tiny square, this place uses local ingredients to great effect. Homemade pasta, fish dishes and a smattering of beautifully done Greek standards grace the short but sweet menu.

A BENT FOR CYCLADIC TRAVEL

Long before the hip lotus-eaters of the 1960s discovered their dream world in the Greek islands, a redoubtable pair of travellers had been thoroughly ‘doing’ the Cyclades during the late 19th century. James Theodore Bent and his wife, Mabel, travelled extensively throughout the Aegean, ‘researching’ the cultural life of the islands as much as their archaeology. J Theodore’s 1885 island-by-island book, The Cyclades, Or Life Among the Insular Greeks, is a quirky masterpiece that describes the sights and cultural realities of the islands in the late 19th century – along with Bent’s often eccentric reflections. Look for it online, and in bookshops on bigger islands such as Santorini.

Tinos ΤΗΝΟΣ

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Tinos is one of those sleeper hit islands. It’s known widely for its sacred Greek Orthodox pilgrimage site: the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, in the port and main town, Hora.

But as soon as you leave the throngs in town, Tinos is a wonderland of natural beauty, dotted with more than 40 marble-ornamented villages found in hidden bays, on terraced hillsides and atop misty mountains. Also scattered across the brindled countryside are countless ornate dovecotes, a legacy of the Venetians.

There’s a strong artistic tradition on Tinos, especially for marble sculpting, as in the sculptors’ village of Pyrgos in the north, near the marble quarries. The food, made from local produce (cheeses, sausage, tomatoes and wild artichokes), is some of the best you’ll find in Greece.

8Getting There & Away

Year-round ferries serve the mainland ports of Rafina and Piraeus and the islands Syros, Andros and Mykonos. Summer high-speed services include Tinos on their passage south from Rafina to major islands such as Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Ios and Santorini. Get tickets at Malliaris Travel, on the waterfront in Hora.

Hora has two ferry departure quays. The New (or Outer) Port is located 300m to the north of the main harbour and serves conventional and larger fast ferries. The Old (or Inner) Port, at the northern end of the town’s main harbour, serves smaller fast ferries. Check which quay your ferry is leaving from.

Boat Services from Tinos

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Andros	1½-2hr	12-17	up to 3 daily
Ios	3½hr	54	1-2 daily
Kea	8hr	16	Thu
Mykonos	20-40min	11-25	2-6 daily
Naxos	2hr-2hr 20min	24-52	1-2 daily
Paros	1hr-1hr 20min	12-53	1-3 daily
Piraeus	1¾-4¾hr	31-39	daily
Rafina	1¾-4¾hr	31-39	2-4 daily
Santorini	4½hr	52	1-2 daily
Syros	30min	12	4 weekly

8Getting Around

Between May and September, KTEL Tinos buses (%22830 22440; www.kteltinou.gr) run from Hora to nearby Kionia (€1.80, 10 minutes, frequent), and northwest to Panormos (€4.50, one hour, several daily) via Kambos (€1.80, 15 minutes) and Pyrgos (€3.60, 50 minutes). The Hora bus station is on the harbour near the port. Buy tickets on board.

Hire motorcycles (€15 to €20 per day) and cars (€40 per weekday, €60 on weekends in high season) along the Hora waterfront. Vidalis Rent a Car & Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 23400; www.vidalis-rentacar.gr) has four outlets in Hora.

Phone for a taxi (%22830 22470).

Hora (Tinos) Χώρα (Τήνος)

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Hora, also known as Tinos, is the island’s welcoming capital and port. Though the harbourfront is lined with cafes and hotels, and the narrow backstreets are packed with restaurants, Hora’s crowning glory is its Church of Panagia Evangelistria, perhaps the most important pilgrimage site for the Greek Orthodox religion.

Two main streets lead up to the church. Evangelistria is lined with shops and stalls crammed with souvenirs and religious wares, while Leoforos Megalocharis has a carpeted strip down the side, used by pilgrims crawling towards the church and pushing long candles before them. Religion certainly takes centre stage in Hora (woe betide the tourist looking for a room on one of the high holy days), but the town still hums with the vibrancy of a low-key island port.

1Sights

oChurch of Panagia EvangelistriaCHURCH

(Church of the Annunciation; GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 22256; www.panagiatinou.gr; h8am-8pm)F

Tinos’ religious focus is this neoclassical church and its icon of the Virgin Mary. The hallowed icon was found in 1822 on land where the church now stands, after a nun in Tinos, now St Pelagia, was visited by visions from the Virgin instructing her where to find it. From the start, the icon was said to have healing powers, thus encouraging mass pilgrimage. Our Lady of Tinos became the patron saint of the Greek nation.

As you enter the church, the icon is on the left of the aisle, and is totally draped in jewels. Hundreds of silver lamps hang from the ceiling, each dangling a votive offering: a ship, a cradle, a heart, a pair of lungs, a chainsaw.

The church, built of marble from the island’s Panormos quarries, lies within a pleasant courtyard flanked by cool arcades. The complex has sweeping views all around and museums (with variable hours) that house collections of religious artefacts, icons and secular art.

Respectful attire must be worn.

Cultural Foundation of TinosGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 29070; www.itip.gr; adult/child €3/free; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

This excellent cultural centre in a handsome neoclassical building on the southern waterfront houses a superb permanent collection of the work of famous Tinian sculptor Yannoulis Chalepas. A second gallery has rotating exhibitions. Musical events are staged in summer, and there’s a gift shop and harbourfront cafe.

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 29063; Leoforos Megalocharis; adult/child €2/free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Just downhill from the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, this museum has a collection that includes impressive clay pithoi (large Minoan storage jars).

Sanctuary of Poseidon & AmphitriteARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Kionia, 3km northwest of Hora, has the remains of the 4th-century BC Sanctuary of Poseidon and his wife Amphitrite, a once-enormous complex that drew pilgrims with the deities' healing powers.

2Activities

KTEL ToursBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 22440; www.poseidontravel-tinos.com; full-day tour €12)

In summer, ask at the bus station about the daily tour that takes in a number of the island’s villages, including Volax, Loutra, Pyrgos, Panormos and Tarambados. It’s a great way to see the sights in a day. Tours departs the bus station at 11am, returning around 5pm.

zFestivals & Events

Assumption of the Virgin MaryRELIGIOUS

(Feast of the Assumption)

On 15 August the town is beyond full for the Virgin’s feast day.

4Sleeping

Hora is overcrowded on 25 March (Annunciation), Greek Easter, 15 August (Feast of the Assumption) and 15 November (Advent). Book months ahead or join devotees sleeping in the street.

NikoletaPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 25863; www.nikoletarooms.gr; Kapodistriou 11; s/d from €35/45; aW)

Little Nikoleta is a short walk inland from the southern end of town, but it’s one of the best-value options. There’s a lovely garden, and some rooms have kitchens.

oStudios Eleni IIGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 24352; www.studio-eleni.gr; Ioannou Plati 7; d/tr €90/120; aW)

A stone’s throw from the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, pocket-rocket Eleni runs this beautiful guesthouse, all whitewashed walls, pale linen and a supremely photogenic Cycladic courtyard. Rooms each have a fridge, and share a small kitchenette.

Eleni also runs Studios Eleni I, which is of an equally high standard at the southern end of town, close to Agios Fokas Beach. Port transfer is offered by both properties.

Hotel TinionHISTORIC HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 22261; www.tinionhotel.gr; Eleftherias Sq; s/d/tr incl breakfast €60/75/90; aW)

This old-school central hotel dates from the 1920s, and has a broad verandah and sweeping stairs leading to comfortable, high-ceilinged rooms. They are a little dated in decor but not without charm, especially for the price; try to score a balcony with sea views. Breakfast is bumper.

Altana HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 25102; www.altanahotel.gr; s/d/ste incl breakfast from €80/90/120; hMay-Oct; aWs)

Located about a 10-minute walk north of the town centre en route to Kionia Beach, this agreeable hotel has a modernist Cycladic style, with snow-white walls and cool interiors incorporating distinctive Tinian motifs.

5Eating

Tinian food tends to be fresh and creative, using local products. Beer lovers should look for Tinos’ own artisanal Nissos beer. Hora may have the widest range of restaurants, but some of most celebrated tavernas are found in remoter parts of the island.

MeskliesCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 22151; www.mesklies.gr; snacks €3.50-7; h9am-late)

This harbourfront cafe does a fine line in breakfasts, but it’s the patisserie's delectable sweets that catch most people’s eyes. From the homemade ice cream (try the bitter chocolate) to traditional sweets like liknaraki (sweet cheese cupcakes) and almond cookies, you’ll find something to like.

oMarathiaCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 23249; www.marathiatinos.gr; Ir Politechniou; mains €10-25; hnoon-midnight; W)

Grilled red mullet with capers and lemon. Wild artichokes, baked on coals. A glass of crisp white. Waves lapping at the beach. Pretty flawless, as far as combinations go. Super-fresh ingredients, family recipes and a deep appreciation for Tinian cuisine make this seafront restaurant a special place.

San To AlatiCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 29266; www.facebook.com/santoalati; Ir Politechniou; mains €10-17; hnoon-midnight; W)

Meaning 'like salt', this cute seaside taverna takes its name from a royal-themed fairy tale (hence the crowns and salt shakers). The place lives up to its Aegean cuisine label, with extensive use of local produce, from local cheeses to just-out-of-the-sea kalamari, octopus and catch of the day.

TarsanasSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 24667; Kazanova 5; mains €9-20, fish by kg; hnoon-11pm; W)

The owner grills out front of this friendly, rustic spot, tucked away at the southern end of the harbour. It specialises in seafood: try smoked fish dip and anchovies wrapped in vine leaves, or splurge on lobster spaghetti.

Itan Ena Mikro KaraviMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 22818; Trion Ierarchon; mains €13-27; hlunch & dinner; W)

Named for the opening line of a well-known children's tale ('There was a little boat...'), this elegant indoor-outdoor eatery serves Greek fare with creative Mediterranean flair. Dishes like slow-cooked pork and rabbit ravioli are made with impeccably sourced local ingredients, and the setting and service are first-class.

To Koutouki Tis ElenisTAVERNA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 24857; G Gagou 5; mains €9-22; hnoon-11pm; W)

This colourful, rustic little place is on the narrow taverna-packed lane veering off the bottom of Evangelistria. The menu bursts with local flavours. Try fresh cheeses, fish soup, artichoke pie or the delicious fritters made from fennel leaf.

8Information

Malliaris Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 24242; www.malliaristravel.gr; h9am-9pm) Sells ferry tickets.

Around Tinos

The countryside of Tinos is a glorious mix of broad terraced hillsides, mountaintops crowned with crags, unspoiled villages, fine beaches and fascinating architecture that includes picturesque dovecotes. Rent wheels to see it all.

Kionia, 3km northwest of Hora, has several small beaches and the scant remains of the 4th-century BC Sanctuary of Poseidon & Amphitrite, a once-enormous complex that drew pilgrims.

First along the way north of town, beautiful Ktikados perches in a hanging valley and has a matched set of blue-topped church and campanile. Drosia is tops for local lunches and magnificent views.

Kambos sits on the top of a scenic hill surrounded by fields and is home to the Costas Tsoclis Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 51009; Kambos; h10am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon Jun-Sep), home to works by the renowned contemporary artist.

Don’t miss Tarabados, a fun maze of small streets decorated with marble sculptures and leading to a breezy valley lined with dovecotes (look for the sign ‘Pigeon Houses’ Area’). Explore!

About 17km northwest of Hora, lovely Kardiani perches on a steep cliff slope enclosed by greenery. Narrow lanes wind through the village, and the views towards Syros are exhilarating.

Pyrgos is a stunning, church-dotted hamlet where even the cemetery is a feast of carved marble, and the perfect village square looks like a film set. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Pyrgos was the centre of a remarkable sculpture enclave sustained by the supply of excellent local marble.

At the main entrance to Pyrgos, the fascinating Museum House of Yannoulis Chalepas ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child €3/free; h11am-3pm & 5.30-7.30pm Apr–mid-Oct) preserves the sculptor’s humble rooms and workshop.

Further north of Pyrgos the main road ends at Panormos, a popular excursion destination for its photogenic fishing harbour lined with fish tavernas.

About 12km north of Hora on the north coast is emerald Kolymvythra Bay, where Tinos Surf Lessons ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tinossurflessons.com; surfing lesson from €20 per person; h10am-9pm) takes advantage of the breaks at two excellent sandy beaches. It offers surf tuition, plus rentals of surfboards, bodyboards, kayaks and canoes.

A worthwhile detour inland takes you to Agapi, in a lush valley of dovecotes. Ethereal and romantic, it lives up to its name (meaning 'love' in Greek).

Pass eye-catching Krokos with its Evangelismou tis Panagias, an enormous Catholic church, to reach Volax, about 6km directly north of Hora. This hamlet sits at the heart of an amphitheatre of low hills festooned with hundreds of enormous, multicoloured boulders.

The ruins of the Venetian fortress of Exobourgo lie 2km south of Volax, on top of a mighty 640m rock outcropping.

The northeast coast beach at Livada is spectacular, but the ones east of Hora, like Porto and Pahia Ammos, can seem comparatively built-up.

DON'T MISS

MARVELLOUS MARBLE

oMuseum of Marble CraftsMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 31290; www.piop.gr; adult/child €3/free; h10am-6pm Mar–mid-Oct, to 5pm mid-Oct–Mar, closed Tue year-round)

On the slopes above Pyrgos is the outstanding Museum of Marble Crafts, a modern, well-curated complex that creatively explains quarrying and sculpting techniques. It includes films and beautifully illustrated displays with English translations, along with top examples of artefacts and architectural features shaped from Tinian marble. The films of some of the last living quarrymen plying their trade are fascinating.

4Sleeping & Eating

oTinos HabitartCOTTAGE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 41907; www.tinos-habitart.gr; Triantoros; 4-person house from €200; Ws)

The cleverly designed complex lies in a village 6km northeast of Hora, and gives you a taste of traditional island life. Five houses incorporate local stone and marble and are fully equipped with kitchen, living spaces and outdoor areas (most with private pool). Our favourite is the dovecote irresistibly transformed into a three-bedroom villa.

VolaxTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 41021; mains €7-12; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

Volax is a scenic hamlet about 6km directly north of Hora, surrounded by low hills festooned with hundreds of enormous, multicoloured boulders. The taverna Volax serves reliable Tinian favourites like wild artichokes with lemon.

DrosiaTAVERNA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 21807; Ktikados; mains €9-13; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Easter-Oct; W)

At Drosia, in the pretty village of Ktikados, you can dine on fish or lamb and take in the magnificent views.

oThalassakiGREEK€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 31366; Ormos Isternia; mains €9-18, fish by kg; hnoon-10pm Easter-Oct; W)

Come to Ormos Isternia, a stony beach set among plunging hills south of Pyrgos, on a foodie pilgrimage. The seafront taverna crafts local cheese, tomatoes, wild artichokes and the like into veritable works of art and has outstanding seafood prepared in deliciously creative fashion (eg octopus baked in grape molasses, mussels with wine and fennel). Book ahead in high season.

oO NtinosCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 31673; mains €8-16; W)

Superlative home-cooked island specialties, served on a sunny terrace overlooking Giannaki Bay.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Nissos Cyclades Microbrewery at Tinos IslandMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22830 26333; http://nissos.beer; htours mid-Jun–mid-Sep on Mon, Thu & Sat)

It's well worth visiting this microbrewery to familiarise yourself with the mysteries of brewing and to sample Nissos' beer collection.

Syros ΣΥΡΟΣ

Pop 21,507

Endearing little Syros merges traditional and modern Greece. One of the smallest islands of the Cyclades and relatively rural outside the capital, it nevertheless has the highest population since it’s the legal and administrative centre of the entire archipelago. It’s also the ferry hub of the northern islands and home to Ermoupoli, the grandest of all Cycladic towns, with an unusual history. As the Cyclades’ capital, it pays less heed to tourism, and its beaches never get as crowded as those of the neighbouring islands. It buzzes with life year-round, boasts great eateries and showcases the best of everyday Greek life.

History

Excavations of an Early Cycladic fortified settlement and burial ground at Kastri in the island’s northeast date from the Neolithic era (2800–2300 BC).

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Capuchin monks and Jesuits settled on the island. Becoming overwhelmingly Catholic, Syros even called upon France for help during Turkish rule.

During the War of Independence, thousands of Orthodox refugees from islands ravaged by the Turks fled to Syros. They brought an infusion of Greek Orthodoxy and a fresh entrepreneurial drive that made Syros the commercial, naval and cultural centre of Greece during the 19th century. Syros’ position declined in the 20th century, but you still see shipyards, textile manufacturing, thriving horticulture, a sizeable administrative sector, a university campus and a continuing Catholic population.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) flies daily from Athens (€90, 35 minutes) to Syros airport (JSY; GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 81900), 5km south of Ermoupoli.

Boat

Year-round ferries serve the mainland port of Piraeus. As the island group’s capital, Syros theoretically has fair to good year-round ferry links with all the Cyclades islands. Check www.openseas.gr due to ever-changing schedules.

Most boats leave from the main ferry quay ( GOOGLE MAP ). There’s a weekly Blue Star (www.bluestarferries.com) ferry linking Syros with each of the Small Cyclades islands and then Amorgos (Aegiali port). A few times a week, Blue Star links Syros with Dodecanese islands, including Patmos, Leros, Kos and Rhodes. There are weekly Hellenic Seaways (www.hellenicseaways.gr) links with the northeastern Aegean islands, including Patmos, Ikaria, Samos, Lesvos and Limnos. Sea Jets (www.seajets.gr) serve Kea, Kythnos and Lavrio.

Buy tickets at Teamwork Holidays or Vassilikos in Ermoupoli. Ask where your ferry will depart from, as it may dock anywhere on the western part of the port. Both agencies have the week’s ferry schedule on their websites.

Boat Services From Syros

Destination	Duration	Fare (€)	Frequency
Chios	8½hr	55	Tue
Ios	6½hr	21	Fri
Kos	6hr	47	Mon, Wed & Fri
Leros	5½hr	42	Mon & Wed
Mykonos	45-75min	11-17	1-3 daily
Naxos	4½hr	13	1-4 weekly
Paros	1hr-10½ hr	11-17	5-6 weekly
Patmos	4hr	39	Mon & Wed
Piraeus	3¼-5hr	24-37	1-3 daily
Rhodes	9-11hr	52	Mon, Wed & Fri
Santorini	9½hr	24	Tue & Sat
Tinos	30min	8-12	4 weekly

8Getting Around

Regular buses (%22810 82575; www.ktel-syrou.gr) loop from Ermoupoli bus station beside the ferry quay, taking in Galissas, Finikas, Posidonia, Megas Gialos and Vari. The full loop takes about an hour, and buses run hourly in both directions, with a maximum fare of €1.70. About five buses go to Kini (€1.60, 35 minutes) or to Ano Syros (€1.60, 15 minutes) every day except Sunday. Schedules are posted at the waterfront bus station.

A free bus traverses the harbour between the car parks at the northern and southern ends of Ermoupoli (half-hourly 7am to 10pm Monday to Friday, to 4pm Saturday and Sunday).

You can hire cars (from €40 per day) and scooters (from €15) at waterfront agencies. Avoid driving in central Ermoupoli, as it’s mostly stairs or pedestrianised ways.

From the port, taxis (%22810 86222) charge around €4 to Ano Syros, €12 to Galissas and €12 to Vari.

Several rental agencies along the waterfront rent scooters (€18) and cars (€35).

Ermoupoli Ερμούπολη

Pop 11,407

As you sail into striking Ermoupoli, named after Hermes and formerly Greece's main port, its peaked hilltops emerge, each topped by a dazzling church. The Catholic settlers built on high ground, and the 19th-century Orthodox newcomers built from below. Now buildings spread in a pink and white cascade over it all, and the centre is a fun maze of stairways, pedestrianised shopping streets and neoclassical mansions all radiating out from the grand Plateia Miaouli, with its impressive town hall.

Catholic Ano Syros and Greek Orthodox Vrodado spill down from high hilltops to the northwest and northeast of town, with even taller hills rising behind.

Ermoupoli

1Sights

1Agios NikolaosD1

2Apollo TheatreC1

3Archaeological MuseumB2

4Plateia MiaouliB2

5Town HallB2

6VaporiaC2

4Sleeping

71901 Hermoupolis MaisonA1

8EthrionA3

9Hermoupolis RoomsB4

10Lila GuesthouseA3

11Ploes HotelD2

5Eating

12KouzinaC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

13KouchicoC2

14Sta VaporiaD1

1Sights

oIndustrial Museum of ErmoupoliMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 84762; www.ketepo.gr; George Papandreou 11; €3; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar, 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.30pm & 6-8pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Apr-Sep)

This excellent chronicle of Syros’ industrial and shipbuilding traditions occupies a restored factory packed with more than 300 well-labelled items relating to sewing, printing, spinning, engines, ships and more. Ask if the Aneroussis lead shot factory is open – it’s fascinating. Find the museum about 1km south of the centre, opposite the hospital on the road to Kini. At research time, there was talk about moving to a new location.

Apollo TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 85192; www.facebook.com/apollontheater; Plateia Vardaka; €2; h10am-4pm & 6-10pm Mon, 10am-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm & 6-10pm Sun)

Built in the 1860s, this venerable theatre was partly modelled on La Scala in Milan. Keep an eye out for regular theatre performances (in Greek), or pop in to take a look around.

VaporiaAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Stroll the Vaporia district, east and northeast of Plateia Miaouli, for palm-lined squares and elegant shipowners’ mansions (some now home to boutique hotels). The shipowners’ wealth is evident in the grand Orthodox Agios Nikolaos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Vaporia District) loaded with fine murals, icons, gilt and chandeliers.

Plateia MiaouliSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This great square is perhaps the finest urban space in the Cyclades. Once situated immediately upon the seashore, today it sits well inland and is dominated by the dignified neoclassical town hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Miaouli), designed by Ernst Ziller. Flanked by palm trees and lined along all sides with cafes and bars, the square and accompanying statue are named for Hydriot naval hero Andreas Miaoulis.

The town’s small, unremarkable archaeological museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 88487; Benaki; adult/child €2/free; h8.30am-8pm) is housed in the rear of the town hall. A couple of elegant old-world cafes are found in the hall’s wings, with al fresco seating for great people-watching.

DON'T MISS

ANO SYROS

The narrow lanes and whitewashed houses of Ano Syros, originally a medieval Catholic settlement, tower above Ermoupoli. From the bus terminus, head into the delightful maze and search out the finest of the Catholic churches, the 13th-century Agios Georgios Cathedral ( GOOGLE MAP ), with its star-fretted barrel roof and baroque capitals (still under renovation at the time of research). Continue past stunning viewpoints to reach the main street; the sweet Our Lady of Mt Carmel; the Vamvakaris Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h12.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun), celebrating locally born patriarch of rembetika (blues) Markos Vamvakaris; and the monasteries of the Jesuits and the Capuchins. Prepare to get lost, but try to find your way back to the view-enriched terraces of the handful of cafes and taverna along the main laneway.

4Sleeping

Most budget options cluster above the ferry quay, while boutique hotels in renovated mansions dot the Vaporia district. Much accommodation is open year-round, with discounts in low season.

Hermoupolis RoomsPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 87475; www.hermoupolis-rooms.gr; Naxou; s/d/tr from €35/40/50; aW)

There’s a cheerful welcome at these well-kept self-catering rooms, a short climb from the waterfront. Front rooms open onto tiny, bougainvillea-cloaked balconies.

o1901 Hermoupolis MaisonBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 84680; www.1901.gr; Palaion Patron Germanou 37-39; r from €75; aW)

Housed in a 19th-century stone mansion, this delightful boutique hotel comprises just five rooms, presided over by the ever-helpful Konstantinos and his wife. Rooms come with super-comfortable beds and free-standing tubs with Molton Brown toiletries, with quirky objects scattered throughout – antique telephones, an olive press, a Singer sewing machine. Terrific breakfast too.

Lila GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 82738; www.guesthouse.gr; Kosma; s/d/tr incl breakfast €80/100/120, ste from €160; aW)

In the former French consulate, these elegantly renovated rooms and suites are kitted out with impeccable modern decor and top-notch bathrooms. Suites are spacious, with dining tables and antiques. A bumper breakfast is served by the genial proprietors in the airy common area. Port pick-ups available.

EthrionHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 89066; www.ethrion.gr; Kosma 24; r €90-135; aW)

The eight rooms and studios at family-run Ethrion are comfortable and well equipped. Opt for the ones with sea view if you can, and bear in mind that the ground-floor studio is on the dark side.

oWind TalesBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6946771400; www.windtales.gr; Agiou Aloisiou; r from €150; aW)

If you wish to linger after the madding crowd has gone and wander Ano Syros' labyrinthine lanes at your leisure, then try the Wind Tales' three gorgeous, individually designed rooms, one of them carved into natural rock. The service is wonderfully personalised, breakfast makes extensive use of local produce, and sipping cocktails on the terrace overlooking Ermoupoli is pure magic.

oPloes HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 79360; www.hotelploes.com; Apollonos 2; d from €200, ste €600; hApr-Oct; aW)

Unremitting elegance and attention to detail are hallmarks of this boutique beauty, inside a restored banker’s mansion. Soaring ceilings, original artworks and designer furniture make the seven rooms here shine, and there’s a private pavilion giving direct sea access to swimmers.

5Eating & Drinking

Restaurants and cafe-bars throng the waterfront, especially along Akti Petrou Ralli – these fire up late, full of party people. Another great area for dining is the bougainvillea-bedecked laneways of Emmanouil Roidi and Kyparissou.

oKouzinaMEDITERRANEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 89150; Androu 5; mains €12-26; h7pm-12.30am Wed & Thu, 1pm-12.30am Fri & Sat, 1-6pm Sun; W)

In this colourfully lit, intimate dining room, fresh local ingredients are the building blocks of creative Mediterranean cuisine, from slow-cooked baby goat and smoked mousakas to kalamari with Cretan smoked pork. Decent wine list and craft beer to boot.

Sta VaporiaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 76486; h10am-3am)

Down a signposted set of stairs behind Agios Nikolaos is this perfectly positioned all-day cafe. It’s a cruisy terrace with postcard panoramas and a menu of coffee, cocktails, homemade lemonade and sangria, and snacks, large and small. Down below are popular seaside swimming platforms (so bring your swimsuit).

KouchicoCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22813 00880; www.facebook.com/kouchico; Ioannou Lavrentiou Ralli 15; h7.30am-3am; W)

A hip spot to sip a coffee by day, Kouchico turns into a buzzy cocktail bar at night, with a trendy young crowd spilling out of its doors. The signature cocktails are not all to our taste, but involve quality ingredients.

8Information

Alpha Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; El Venizelou)

Eurobank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Ethnikis Antistasis)

Piraeus Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Petrou Ralli)

Information Booth ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 80485; Akti Ethnikis Antistasis; hhr vary)

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Protopapadaki; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Teamwork Holidays ( GOOGLE MAP ; %28810 83400; www.teamwork.gr; Akti Papagou 18; h9am-9pm) Arranges accommodation and excursions and sells ferry tickets.

Vassilikos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 84444; www.vassilikos.gr; Akti Papagou 10; h9am-9pm) Ferry tickets.

Around Syros

Outside Ermoupoli, Syros comprises a series of hills and valleys folding down to small bays and beaches, most well served by buses.

The old resort town Galissas has seen better days, but it has an appealing beach and is still popular with French travellers, and has a couple of excellent tavernas. Behind the Dolphin Bay Hotel is Armeos, the nudist beach.

South of Galissas, reachable via a short bus ride or a 40-minute walk, Finikas has a long and narrow strip of sand against a backdrop of tamarisk trees. South of the headland is Posidonia, another narrow, sandy beach, beyond which lies the delightful and popular Agathopes beach, with golden sand, calm waters and a smattering of tavernas. Another ten-minute walk south brings you to Komito, a sheltered bay backed by olive groves.

The beaches south of Galissas all have domatia, and some have hotels. It takes only about an hour to do a loop drive from Galissas around the south coast, so go exploring with your own wheels.

The south-coast town of Megas Gialos has a couple of roadside beaches with pedal boats for hire, but they are rather exposed when the meltemi (dry northerly wind) sweeps in in the summer. Gorgeous (and sheltered) Vari Bay, further east, is the better bet with its light grey sandy beach, though the waterfront and tavernas get packed with families in high season.

Kini Beach, on the west coast, has a long, thin stretch of beach popular with families due to its shallow waters.

2Activities & Courses

OmiloLANGUAGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %Athens 210 612 2896; www.omilo.com/syros)

Offers summertime Greek language and culture courses on Syros and Andros. Courses take place in Azolimnos, 4km south of Ermoupoli.

Syros Windsurfing SchoolWINDSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6936713547; www.facebook.com/SyrosWindsurfingSchool; stand-up paddleboarding per hr €25)

Organises windsurfing and stand-up paddleboarding for all ages and levels. Based at Finikas.

Cyclades SailingBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 82501; www.cyclades-sailing.gr)

Large yacht-charter company, based at Finikas marina. See the website for the huge range of vessels and potential sailing areas. A week-long four-berth yacht in peak season costs from €1420.

4Sleeping & Eating

Krinakia AgathopesAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 42375; apt from €50; hMay-Sep; aW)

Quiet, spacious, well equipped apartments overlooking Agkathopes Beach. Popular with families.

Hotel AlkyonHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 61761; www.alkyonsyros.gr; r from €60; hApr-Oct; aWs)

Inland and about 1.5km from Megas Gialos is peaceful Hotel Alkyon, run by a charming French-Greek couple, with a large pool and spotless rooms. Hosts arrange seminars and activities that include painting and Greek gastronomy.

Blue Harmony HotelHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 71570; www.blueharmony.gr; r/tr from €126/135; aW)

This waterfront hotel at Kini Beach makes a fine choice, with bright, well equipped rooms and a funky slate facade.

Hotel BenoisHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 42833; www.benois.gr; s/d/tr/f incl breakfast €70/77/90/121; hEaster-Oct; aWs)

A well-run hotel at the northern entrance to the village, the Benois has spick-and-span rooms that are all minimalist charm and neutral shades. It has relaxing and spacious public areas and an inviting swimming pool.

Allou YialouSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 71196; Kini Beach; mains €8-22; hnoon-10pm May-Sep; W)

Tops for eats on Kini Beach is Allou Yialou, absolutely waterfront and with excellent fish stew and other seafood. It's a prime sunset spot.

IliovasilemaCYCLADIC€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22810 43325; mains €8-16; hnoon-10pm Apr-Oct; W)

The name means sunset, and this west-coast fish-heavy restaurant is a fine choice for watching it. The menu is an ode to local produce. Try the kakavia (traditional fish soup) or the fennel pie.

WORTH A TRIP

SAN MICHALIS

If you have your own wheels, don’t miss the drive to the northern village of San Michalis, along the spine of Syros, with spectacular views of unspoilt valleys and neighbouring islands on either side. Famous for its cheese, San Michalis is now a small hamlet of stone houses and vineyards.

Walk the winding rock path to the hilltop church and get Syran food at its best at Plakostroto ( GOOGLE MAP ; %6973980248; www.plakostroto.gr; mains €9-16; hlunch & dinner May-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Apr; W). It serves local cheese plus rooster, lamb or rabbit grilled on the open wood fire. Views sweep down the hillside to Kea, Kythnos and beyond.