SEAFOOD
With over seven thousand islands in its chain, the Philippines is the second largest archipelago in the world, which naturally explains why the surrounding seas are hardly an idle landscape but a vital resource teeming with life. When it comes to edible delights, the waters are abundant with fish, shellfish, and seaweed, providing the majority of Filipinos with their primary source of protein. The only problem that this poses, for those of us living thousands of miles away in landlocked areas, is matching the freshness and variety of sea life so easily attainable to those on the islands. This chapter’s anthology covers the gamut of seafood available, regardless of your proximity to a coastline.
One of the challenges of a Filipino-American kitchen far from the homeland is balancing authenticity with availability. In reconciling this dilemma, I’ve always preferred freshness over tradition, especially where seafood is concerned. Milkfish bangus, with its forked tail, distinctive flavor, and abundance of bones, is widely consumed on the islands and considered the national fish of the Philippines. However, even in a large metropolitan city like Chicago, I’ve had a hard time finding fresh bangus outside of the Filipino market, and more often it has been previously frozen then thawed. If you do happen to luck out with an Asian market of substance, you may find fresh milkfish, but more often you will find it frozen, smoked tinapa, butterflied, or already cut into steaks. Bangus is featured in this collection, stuffed with a deliciously simple filling of candied pili nuts, shallots, and ginger.
The stuffed rainbow trout was my sous chef’s invention, a blockbuster hit of rainbow trout fillets filled with kabocha squash calabasa and adobo water spinach kangkong, elegantly rolled for stunning presentation. Escabeche, although Spanish in name, borrows the classic sweet-and-sour combination made famous by the Chinese, but with its own Filipino identity. I’ve made escabeche with countless varieties of fish and I always come back to skate wing; this sweet fish has an outstanding delicacy that beautifully complements the pineapple and fermented black beans flavoring the sauce.
I certainly know how squeamish some people can be over the idea of preparing whole fish. But if you let your fishmonger do the dirty work of cleaning and scaling your fish for the Whole Roasted Red Snapper, this dish is quite literally a snap. I can’t tell you how quickly people get over seeing the head and tail when diving in for a second helping. The Inasal Nga Lapu Lapu (grilled grouper) and Pesa nga may Misu both feature a fermented soy bean paste called misu (you may know it as miso) to flavor the fish for a unique richness that goes far beyond salty.
Alimasag, or blue crab, is abundant in Philippine waters, which is why Alimasag nga may Gata is featured using soft-shelled crab cooked in coconut milk—a must-try dish during the summer molting season. Shrimp is another seafood staple. Buying your shrimp with the shell on will allow you to make Shrimp Stock (page 14), a quick and handy flavor booster to keep in your refrigerator or freezer. The peeled shrimp can then be used for Hipon Rebosado, fried shrimp covered in a light batter, or as a substitute for crab in the Gata recipe. Both are quick dishes that are easy to put together during the week. The Guisadong Tahong nga may Misu is a typical preparation for mussels. I love using plump and meaty green lip mussels from New Zealand, which are usually frozen on the half-shell. Fresh black mussels are equally delicious and add extra flavor when they release their liquor into the sauce, making an almost drinkable adobo. So have plenty of sticky white rice or bread to sop up every last drop.
SOFT-SHELL CRAB IN SPICY COCONUT SAUCE ALIMASAG NGA MAY GATA
The Philippines is one Southeast Asian country that has kept its culinary distance from the exuberant use of chiles. Playing more of a regional role on the southern islands of Palawan and Mindanao and the northern Bicol peninsula are siling habas or siling labuyo, the local green and red hot chile peppers used to add fire to everyday specialties. Here we have soft-shell crab and sweet corn flavored with a paste of fiery, red siling labuyo (also called bird peppers or Thai chiles), garlic, and vinegar. If fresh chiles aren’t available, sambal ulek chili paste is a terrific and convenient understudy. As with every gata, there’s an ample supply of coconut milk in this dish to tame the wild heat of the chiles. Pair this with the Coconut-Garlic Mashed Potatoes (page 142) for a brilliant match.
Serves 4
Garlic Chili Paste: makes about 1 heaping tablespoon
1 Thai chile, stem removed
1 small clove garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon coconut vinegar or palm vinegar
Pinch of sugar
Crab
1 cup (125 g) frozen corn
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
4 soft-shell crabs, already cleaned
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small tomato, diced
½ cup (125 ml) coconut milk
½ cup (125 ml) Fish or Shrimp Stock (see page 14)
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 green onion (scallion), thinly sliced
½ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Make the chili paste: Place the chile, garlic, ginger, oil, vinegar, and sugar in a mortar and mash into a smooth paste with the pestle. Set aside.
Cook the crab: Place the flour on a plate and dredge the soft-shell crabs on both sides; shake off the excess flour. Heat the remaining olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, gently place the crabs in the pan. Panfry the crab for 3 to 4 minutes per side until golden brown. Remove the crabs from the pan and place on a serving dish.
Add the tomato and corn kernels to the pan and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, fish or shrimp stock, garlic chili paste, and fish sauce. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes until the coconut milk begins to reduce to a thick sauce. Pour the coconut sauce over the crabs and sprinkle with the sliced green onion (scallion) and toasted sesame seeds.
How to Clean Soft-Shell Crab
One of summer’s culinary highlights is soft-shell crab season. Blue crabs molt from May to September and in shedding their hard shells become tender and almost entirely edible, shell and all. The ingredients list calls for pre-cleaned soft-shell crabs since you’ll more often find soft-shell crabs in many of the large grocery stores conveniently prepared for cooking. But to ensure freshness, live crabs are best to use, although they are sometimes difficult to find.
If you are comfortable cooking live lobster or blue crab, cleaning and cooking soft-shell crab shouldn’t be too far from your comfort zone. Only minimal preparation is required. First, take a pair of sharp kitchen shears and cut off the head of the crab, right behind the eyes and mouth. Then gently lift one point of the crab’s top shell. Underneath you’ll find spongy, grayish-white gills; pull these off and discard. Lift the other point of the crab’s shell and repeat the process. Finally, turn the crab over and pull or cut off the belly flap, called the apron. In a female crab, the apron will be heart-shaped; in a male crab it is thin and pointed. Now the crab is ready to cook.
MILKFISH WITH PILI NUT STUFFING INASAL NGA BANGUS
Bangus, or milkfish, is a popular commercially farmed fish in the Philippines that is usually found in ample supply at the Asian market. Although it involves more work, I love stuffing whole bangus; it requires the fish to be “dressed,” that is, completely cleaned (scaled, gutted, and gilled) with the head and tail left intact. There’s also the exercise of butterflying the fish and removing the spine and pinbones before stuffing, which makes eating the unencumbered fish all the more enjoyable. If the head and tail are too much for you, fillets are the convenient way to go. With a buttery nut mixture of pili nuts and shallots sandwiched in between the fillets, this is a dish that will not disappoint. Plain pili nuts are hard to find, even in a major city like Chicago that has a substantial Asian population. More often, I find pili nuts in a candied brittle with a crunchy caramel coating that gives this dish just the right amount of sweetness. Don’t fret over pili nuts if you can’t find them; macadamia nuts are comparable in terms of taste and texture. Substitute Adobo-Flavored Pecans (page 33) for a sensational taste.
Serves 4
2 lbs (900 g) whole milkfish, dressed, deboned, and butterflied
Pili Nut Stuffing
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, chopped
¼ cup (25 g) candied pili nuts
1 teaspoon fish sauce
Dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 calamansi, halved
½ cup (15 g) fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Make the stuffing: Combine the shallots, ginger, garlic, pili nuts, and fish sauce in a bowl and toss together.
Stuff the fish: Lay the butterflied milkfish open on your work surface. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and squeeze the calamansi juice on the fillets. Lay the fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) leaves along the back. Spoon the shallot-nut mixture generously onto the bottom fillet. Fold the top fillet over the filling and secure it closed with toothpicks or by tying the fish closed with kitchen twine.
Cook the fish: When hot, lightly oil the grates to prevent sticking. Gently place the fish on the grill and cook for 8 to 10 minutes per side over a medium flame until the fish is completely cooked and the filling is heated through. Place the fish on a platter; remove and discard the toothpicks or twine. Serve immediately.
How to Butterfly a Fish
A butterflied fish is one that is completely cleaned and deboned and has the fillets attached along the back, keeping the whole fish in one neat piece. Rinse the milkfish well under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut off the side, belly, and dorsal fins with scissors. Remove the backbone by inserting your knife up from the belly at the base of the head, keeping your knife pressed along the spine and cutting down the fillet until you reach the tail. Make sure that you do not cut through the back (along the dorsal fin) of the fish. Repeat this procedure to separate the other fillet from the backbone. Use scissors to snip off the backbone at the base of the head and at the tail. Discard the spine and remove the pin bones from the fillets using a pair of fish tweezers. The fish should open like a book.
Rare is the Filipino who shies away from the opaque gaze of a whole fish, simply cooked and elegantly served in its natural form. As with meats and poultry, fish cooked on the bone is more flavorful and juicy than a lone fillet. Preparing a whole fish may seem like a challenge when in fact it can be quite simple. Let your fishmonger do the dirty work for you by scaling and dressing the fish (removing the scales, innards, and gills) so that all it needs when you get it home is a quick rinse under cold water. This recipe highlights fresh fish with just a tickle of citrus marinade to flavor the skin and flesh. Herbal aromatics stuffed into the belly impart an additional layer of subtle perfume. Red snapper is always a showstopper, although any firm-flesh fish (such as bass, grouper, mackerel, or whitefish) will wow your guests. I usually cook this dish under the broiler but feel free to take it out to the grill during the summer.
Serves 4
4 to 5 lbs (2 to 2½ kg) whole red snapper, scaled, dressed, and fins removed
Aromatic Stuffing
3 thin slices fresh ginger, peeled
One 3-in (10-cm) piece lemongrass
3 to 4 sprigs fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
5 toothpicks
Marinade
1 green onion (scallion), chopped
3 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons sambal ulek or chopped Thai chiles
Stuff the fish: Rinse the cleaned, dressed fish under cold water to remove the excess blood and pat dry with paper towels. Using a sharp knife, cut three parallel slashes across each side of the fish to expose the flesh. Lay slices of ginger, lemongrass, and fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) sprigs in the belly cavity and head of the fish. Skewer the belly shut with toothpicks to seal in the aromatics. Place the stuffed fish in a large baking dish so that it fits comfortably.
Marinate the fish: Whisk together the green onion (scallion), lime juice, soy sauce, fish sauce, olive oil, sugar, and sambal ulek in a small bowl. Pour over the fish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 10 minutes. Turn the fish over and marinate the other side for 10 minutes. Discard the marinade and transfer the fish to a flat roasting rack fitted into a foil-lined roasting pan.
Broil the fish: Set the top oven rack within 6 inches of the broiler and preheat to its highest setting. Place the fish directly underneath broiler for 7 to 9 minutes per side until the fish is cooked through at the thickest part of the fillet. Lay the fish on a serving platter and remove the toothpicks. Serve the fish immediately with a dipping sauce of soy, minced garlic, and vinegar.
MAHI MAHI IN GINGER-MISO BROTH PESA NGA MAY MISU
The short title doesn’t do justice to this marvelous dish layered with the bold flavors of miso and ginger. Although there are quite a few ingredients in this soup, it truly is a brilliant, one-pot meal. Instead of adding plain miso to the broth I prefer making a concentrated miso sofrito paste (page 21) with garlic, tomato, and caramelized onion to slather on the mahi mahi, which then flavors the soup. The addition of lycium is a deviation from any traditional recipe for pesa but the juicy berries add both vibrant color and sweetness to every bite without altering the integrity of the dish. Try making this soup in a pot that you can bring directly to the table, such as a cast-iron or glazed clay pot, which will keep your soup piping hot as it is served.
Serves 4
¾ lb (350 g) mahi mahi fillets (substitute any thick meaty fish such as kingfish, whitefish, cod, grouper, catfish, turbot, skate, halibut, or snapper)
¼ cup (50 g) miso sofrito (see page 21)
Broth
One 4-in (10-cm) piece lemongrass
2 teaspoons peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 cup (225 g) sliced button mushrooms
4 to 5 (approximately ½ oz/15 g) dried shiitake mushrooms
2 tablespoons lycium, dried berries
6 cups (1½ liters) Fish or Shrimp Stock (see page 14)
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 leaves Napa cabbage, chopped
1 green onion (scallion), finely chopped
Prepare the fillets: Smear the miso sofrito on one side of the mahi mahi fillets. Set the fish aside.
Make the soup: Place the lemongrass, ginger, fresh and dried mushrooms, lycium, fish or shrimp stock, fish sauce, soy sauce, and pepper in a medium soup pot (3 to 4 quarts/liters). Cover the pot and simmer the broth for 15 minutes. Remove and discard the lemongrass. Add the cabbage and the mahi mahi fillets to the pot. Cover and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the mahi mahi is cooked. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with the chopped green onion (scallion).
Variation: For a vegetarian version, substitute firm tofu for the mahi mahi and vegetable stock (page 15) for the fish stock.
SWEET-AND-SOUR SKATE WING ESCABECHE NGA ISDA
Forget about any notions of sweet and sour that include thick, sticky, neon orange sauce because Filipino escabeche steps out of the mold. Escabeche takes its name from the Spanish verb escabechar, meaning “to pickle,” which reflects the vibrant native vinegar used to sour the light sauce. However, vinegar is only one of several bold flavors that transform this dish into a special indulgence. The “sweet” comes naturally packaged in the form of fresh ripe pineapple and pineapple juice. Plenty of ginger and fermented black beans are the secret ingredients that help complete the alchemy. A good-quality fish or seafood stock is essential, not only for its flavor backbone but for the gelatin that will allow the sauce to reduce into shiny satin without a starch thickener. I’ve used many different types of fish for this escabeche and found that the delicate meat of skate pairs beautifully with the sunny flavors in this dish. Skate might require a special order from your fishmonger, but it is worth the effort.
Serves 4
1½ lbs (675 g) skate wing, skinned (substitute bass, whitefish, grouper, snapper, or tilapia)
Dash of salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup (125 ml) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons minced ginger
1 tablespoon fermented black beans
¼ cup (50 ml) rice wine
½ cup (125 ml) Fish Stock (see page 14)
1 cup (75 g) diced pineapple
¼ cup (50 ml) pineapple juice
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 small red bell pepper, deseeded and sliced
8 oz (225 g) Napa cabbage, finely shredded
1 green onion (scallion), sliced
Place the skate on a plate and season both sides with salt and pepper (see skate in “Buying Filipino Ingredients,” page 173). Dredge the fish in the flour, shaking off any excess. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. When the oil is hot and smoking, carefully add the fish without overcrowding the pan. Sear the fish for 3 to 4 minutes per side until well browned and half cooked. Remove to a plate and set aside. Remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool slightly for 1 minute.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the garlic, ginger, and black beans to the pan. Cook and stir for 30 seconds. Deglaze the pan with the rice wine, scraping any caramelized bits into the liquid. Add the fish stock, pineapple and juice, vinegar, fish sauce, and pepper. Increase the heat to high and cook for 7 to 8 minutes to reduce the sauce and marry the flavors.
Return the fish to the pan. Top the fish with the bell pepper. Cover and simmer for 2 to 4 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
To serve, arrange the shredded cabbage on a serving platter. Lay the skate on top of the cabbage. Pour the sauce and the red bell peppers over the fish and sprinkle with the sliced green onion (scallion). Serve hot.
CABBAGE-WRAPPED TILAPIA IN COCONUT MILK SINANGLAY
There’s something nostalgic about wrapped dishes that take me back to those early Saturday mornings in the kitchen with my mom, sister, and grandmother, our culinary kurom (quorum), where we’d wrap enough lumpia egg rolls or suman rice cakes to feed the neighborhood. You won’t need a posse or a dedicated weekend to prepare this simple wrapped fish that, with just a few ingredients, returns big flavors with interest. Tilapia is a booming business in Filipino aquaculture and my fillet of choice, but any thick, firm-fleshed whitefish will do the trick. The thin, pliable leaves of Napa cabbage perfectly cloak the tilapia without the preliminary step of blanching. I cut off the heavy white rib and use the tender leaves. For added panache, long chives tied around the wrapped fish will secure the cabbage and give this weekday dish a fancy feel.
Serves 4
1 large head Napa cabbage, approximately 1½ lbs (675 g)
3 green onions (scallions), finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
1 teaspoon sambal ulek or chopped Thai chile
½ teaspoon olive oil
4 tilapia fillets, approximately 1½ lbs (675 g)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 to 10 chives, 5 to 7 in (15 to 17 cm) long
1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk
1 cup (250 ml) Fish Stock (see page 14)
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 small bay leaf
Prepare the cabbage: Tear off 2 large cabbage leaves per fillet. Cut off the stiff white rib that runs through the center of each leaf so that you have the tender green leaves to wrap the fish. Reserve the ribs for your next soup, sauté, or stir-fry. Set the leaves aside.
Prepare the topping and wrap the fish: Combine the spring onions (scallions), garlic, ginger, lime zest, sambal ulek, and olive oil in a small bowl. Stir to mix. Lay a cabbage leaf on your work surface. Place a piece of tilapia in the center of the leaf and season with salt and pepper. Spread a teaspoon of the green onion (scallion) mixture on top of the tilapia. Wrap the cabbage around the fish so that it is completely covered. Use a second cabbage leaf if necessary. Secure the cabbage around the fish by tying a long chive around the wrapped fish like a ribbon. Continue wrapping the remaining fillets.
Cook the fish: Place the wrapped fish in a single layer in a 12-inch (30-cm) skillet. Pour in the coconut milk, fish broth, fish sauce, and bay leaf. Cover and simmer for 7 to 9 minutes until the fish is cooked through and is flaky. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Adjust the seasonings with the fish sauce and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer wrapped fish onto a serving platter and pour the sauce over the fish. Serve with Steamed Rice (page 21).
GRILLED GROUPER WITH EGGPLANT-PRUNE COMPOTE INASAL NGA LAPU LAPU
Lapu Lapu holds an illustrious role in Filipino history as the heroic tribal chieftain who led his men into battle defending Mactan Island from the claim and colonization of Spain’s hired explorer, Ferdinand Magellan. Forty-four years would pass before Spain eventually gained sovereignty over the Philippines but Lapu Lapu’s undeniable heroism was never forgotten. It earned him two significant namesakes in the Philippines: Lapu Lapu City located on the island of Cebu and the prized lapu lapu fish that we know as grouper. The firm, sweet flesh of grouper lends itself to this flavorful miso-tomato marinade. The simplicity of the fish and the natural sweetness of the eggplant-prune compote is perfectly balanced with a side of tangy achara, or pickled vegetables.
Serves 4
2 lbs (900 g) grouper fillets
½ cup (125 g) miso
1½ cups (350 ml) tomato juice
1 teaspoon peeled and chopped fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 green onion (scallion), coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon finely minced lemongrass
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
Approximately 4 cups (600 g) Eggplant-Prune Compote (see page 20)
Marinate the fillets: Place the grouper fillets in a shallow baking dish. Combine the miso, tomato juice, ginger, garlic, green onion (scallion), lemongrass, fish sauce, and olive oil in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour over the grouper fillets and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Grill the fillets: Remove the fillets from the marinade, discarding any excess liquid. Preheat a stovetop grill or outdoor grill to a high flame. Lightly oil the grill and cook the fillets 4 to 6 minutes per side until just cooked.
Place on a platter and serve with hot eggplant-prune compote (page 20) and chilled achara (page 62).
RAINBOW TROUT STUFFED WITH KABOCHA SQUASH AND WATER SPINACH
I have my former sous chef, Joaquin Soler, to thank for this treasure—healthy and delicious with the whopping flavors of roasted squash and adobo-seasoned water spinach. Use a rich, flavorful fish broth to make your simple sauce really shine. Admittedly, there are a few steps to preparing these fish rolls—from roasting the squash to sautéing the kangkong, to rolling the trout and tying them with chives for compact elegance—so be ready to invest an hour or so in the kitchen. The final cooking time, however, is short and takes place in one pan for easy cleanup. I love serving this for formal gatherings because much of it can be prepared in advance and simply reheated before serving so that your time is better spent with your guests instead of in the kitchen.
Makes 6 rolled trout
6 rainbow trout fillets (approximately 4 oz/125 g each)
1 lb (450 g) kabocha squash (substitute butternut squash)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lb (450 g) kangkong water spinach, washed
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon vinegar
6 long chives (at least 6 in/15 cm long)
½ cup (125 ml) rice wine
2 cups (500 ml) Fish Stock (see page 14)
2 teaspoons fish sauce
½ lb (225 g) medium-thick asparagus, ends trimmed and peeled
Prepare the trout: Preparing your trout means making sure the fillets are free from fins and bones. Use sharp kitchen shears to cut off the fins and needlenose pliers to pull out fine pin-bones from the fillets. Do not remove the skin from the fillets since it helps hold the delicate flesh together. Set the cleaned fillets aside in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Roast the squash: Preheat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Cut the squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard the seeds. Lay the squash cut side down on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour until a knife easily pierces the tender flesh. Once cool, scrape the flesh into a bowl and mash with a fork. Season with salt and pepper.
Prepare the water spinach: Rinse the kangkong well and shake off the excess water. Separate the leaves from the stems. Cut the stems into ½-inch (1⅓-cm) pieces. Heat the olive oil in a large 3 to 4 quarts/liters sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds being careful not to burn it. Add the kangkong stems and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes until softened. Add the kangkong leaves, soy sauce, vinegar, and pepper and cook for another 5 minutes until wilted. Remove the sautéed kangkong to a bowl and cool. Wash your sauté pan and return it to the stove for later use.
Stuff the trout: Lay a trout fillet on your work surface, skin side down. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons mashed squash on the trout, leaving a ¼-inch (6⅓-mm) border of fillet uncovered by the squash. Lay 1 to 2 tablespoons sautéed kangkong on top of the squash. Starting at the tail, roll up the trout and secure it closed by tying a chive around the roll. In a pinch, you can seal the trout fillet closed using toothpicks or skewers, which will make searing the fish more cumbersome. Continue rolling and tying the remaining fillets.
Braise the trout: Heat the sauté pan with olive oil over high heat. When the oil is smoking, add the trout rolls to the pan, skin side down. Sear each side of the rolls for 1 to 2 minutes until well browned. Once seared, lay the rolls upright and add the rice wine, fish broth, and fish sauce to the pan. Cover and cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the fish is completely cooked through. Remove the fish rolls to a serving platter and keep warm. Add the asparagus to the pan and cover. Cook the asparagus for 4 to 5 minutes until crisp-tender. Place on the platter with the trout rolls. Continue cooking sauce for another 2 to 3 minutes until the broth is reduced. Adjust the seasonings and pour over the fish rolls. Serve immediately.
BATTERED FRIED SHRIMP HIPON REBOSADO
Every family has its own food traditions, special dishes that punctuate festive gatherings and celebrations. In my family, a heaping platter of shrimp rebosado on the table is love incarnate and a sure sign of the cook’s affection. Rebosado isn’t the typical fiesta dish, long and involved with a ticker-tape list of ingredients. It’s a flash to prepare with ingredients that you most likely already have in your cupboard. What makes it special is the shrimp: the largest, meatiest shrimp you can find. This recipe calls for jumbo (11–15) black tiger shrimp, meaning there are 11 to 15 shrimp per pound. Have plenty of Sweet Chili Sauce for dunking.
Makes 11–15 shrimp
1 lb (450 g) jumbo black tiger shrimp, peeled with tails left on and deveined
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
Batter
½ cup (75 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (70 g) cornstarch 1 large egg
¾ cup (175 ml) milk
2 to 3 cups (500 to 750 ml) oil, for frying
In a bowl, combine the shrimp with the oyster sauce, soy sauce, and pepper. Mix thoroughly and set aside. In another bowl, whisk together the batter ingredients until smooth.
Heat the oil in a medium pot to 350°F (175°C). Take a shrimp by the tail and dip it into the batter coating it evenly. Gently place the shrimp into the oil and fry for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown. Dry the shrimp on paper towels. Serve immediately with sweet chili sauce (page 18).
CRAB AND EGGPLANT TORTE TORTANG ALAMANG
One of the classic recipes in my mother’s large repertoire of amazing dishes is this crab and eggplant torta, heavily seasoned with garlic and oyster sauce and slowly cooked with egg. It’s not much to look at, but the flavor is break-your-heart good. Use good-quality lump crabmeat with large chunks of crab instead of cheaper crab flakes that will ruin the smooth texture of this dish. For years I had always roasted my eggplant in the oven, when my mom let me in on her quick-cooking secret: using the microwave! It works beautifully, cooking the eggplant in a fraction of the time while keeping it moist and tender. This has always been a stovetop dish for my mom, using her trusty nonstick pan and lots of oil to keep the eggs from sticking. To eliminate much of the oil, I’ve switched to baking this torta in the oven with stellar results—even by Mom’s standards.
Serves 4
1 eggplant, approximately 1 lb (450 g)
¼ cup (50 ml) oyster sauce
2 teaspoons soy sauce
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
7 large eggs, beaten
2 green onions (scallions), chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 lb (450 g) lump crabmeat
Cook the eggplant: To cook the eggplant in a microwave, follow Step 1; to cook it in a conventional oven, follow Step 2. Step 1. Pierce the eggplant in several places with a knife and place on a microwavable dish. Cook on high for 9 to 15 minutes until completely cooked and very tender. Step 2. To cook the eggplant in a conventional oven, first pierce the eggplant skin with a knife in several places. Place the whole eggplant on a baking sheet. Cook in a 375° F (190° C) preheated oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour until very tender and ready to collapse.
Prepare and cook the torte: Cool the eggplant and remove the stem and skin. Finely chop the eggplant and place in a large bowl. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, pepper, eggs, spring onions (scallions), garlic, and ginger. Mix well to combine. Fold the crabmeat into the egg mixture, being careful not to break apart the large chunks of crab.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Pour the crab mixture into a lightly oiled 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-m) baking dish and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour until the mixture is firmly set. Serve hot with rice.
GREEN LIP MUSSELS WITH MISO GUISADONG TAHONG NGA MAY MISU
Whenever I’m pressed for time, mussels often come to mind as the solution to my dinner dilemma. Healthy and delicious, mussels need little preparation and almost no cooking time so that dinner can be on the table from start to finish in less than 30 minutes. Paired with a comfortable, almost drinkable sauce transformed by the warmth of miso and richness of coconut milk, this dish will surely become a weekday staple. For this recipe I prefer using large, succulent green lip mussels that are abundantly fresh in the Philippines, although rarely available fresh in the States for home consumption. Excellent quality New Zealand green lip mussels are available on the half-shell in the grocer’s frozen seafood section. Fresh black mussels, which most large grocery stores stock fresh, are equally delicious.
Serves 4
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 tomato, diced
2 tablespoons miso
1 cup (250 ml) Fish Stock (see page 14)
¼ cup (50 ml) coconut milk
½ teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon shrimp paste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 lbs (900 g) frozen green lip mussels on the half-shell, thawed
¼ cup (10 g) chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan (4 to 5 quarts/liters) over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger. Cook and stir for 2 minutes, until onion is translucent. Add the tomato and miso. Cook and stir for 5 to 6 minutes; the tomato will collapse and blend easily into the miso paste.
Add the fish stock, coconut milk, fish sauce, shrimp paste, pepper, and mussels. Cover and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the mussels are heated through. Stir in the fresh coriander leaves (cilantro). Ladle the mussels and sauce into a serving dish. Serve with rice or bread.
WATER SPINACH ADOBO ADOBONG KANGKONG
SWEET POTATOES, PLANTAINS, AND JACKFRUIT IN
COCONUT SAUCE GUINATAAN
COCONUT CORN PUDDING MAJA BLANCA MAIS
STEWED SQUASH, EGGPLANT, AND LONG BEANS PINAKBET
COCONUT-GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
CHAYOTE WITH MUSHROOMS AND WATERCRESS
STUFFED EGGPLANT WITH CURRY-TOMATO SOFRITO RELLENONG TALONG
HOISIN-TAMARIND GLAZED LONG BEANS GUISADONG SITAO