As much as I love cooking fish, after having a seafood restaurant for twelve years, I was ready for a change. When I opened MICHAEL MINA, I was determined to explore new dimensions in the preparation of meats.
Juiciness and flavor are two important components when it comes to meat quality. Both factors are influenced by the cut of meat you choose and how it’s cooked. I first experimented with slow-poaching lamb in warm olive oil and beef in clarified butter. The outcomes were amazing and opened an entirely new avenue of cooking. The meat gave up none of its mass and retained all its inherent flavor and moisture while cooking evenly throughout. Cooking meat slowly in this fashion also kept it from shrinking and toughening. By then searing the meat after it is poached, you achieve maximum tenderness while still producing a caramelization on the outside of the meat. It is now my favorite method to prepare different types of meat.
In this chapter, I examine both the more traditional methods of cooking meat—searing and roasting—as well as the poaching approach. The two meats that are seared and roasted are protected by a nice layer of fat, which not only adds succulence but also helps retain juiciness. The rich skin on the squab provides some armor for the breast meat, and the pancetta wrapping on the pork loin ensures that the lean meat will stay moist and tender. Although some of the recipes may seem complex, I think that you will find that once you have gathered your mise en place (the French term for the organization of all the ingredients necessary to complete a dish), the actual preparation time will be relatively short.
HORSERADISH MASHED POTATOES, ROASTED CIPOLLINI ONIONS, HORSERADISH CREAM, BUTTERMILK ONION RINGS
SALT-BAKED YUKON POTATOES, GRILLED ASPARAGUS, CLASSIC BÉARNAISE
POTATO CAKES, SAUTÉED GARLIC SPINACH, FOIE GRAS EMULSION
THERE ARE PLENTY OF GREAT OLD STEAKHOUSES ACROSS THE COUNTRY—IZZY’S IN SAN FRANCISCO AND PETER LUGER’S IN NEW YORK COME TO MIND. LARGE PLATTERS OF THICK, JUICY STEAK SURROUNDED BY AN ABUNDANCE OF SIDE PLATES STIRS UP CONVERSATION AROUND THE LIVELY TABLES. THIS STEAKHOUSE-STYLE TRIO ECHOES THE GREAT AMERICAN SPIRIT WITH A MODERN ADAPTATION OF PROVEN FLAVORS AND TECHNIQUES. MY AIM IS TO OFFER FAMILIAR YET UNINTIMIDATING INGREDIENTS AND PRESENT THEM IN A REALLY DRAMATIC FASHION TO INSTIGATE THE “WOW” FACTOR. I AM NOT REINVENTING THE FLAVOR WHEEL HERE—IF YOU ARE IN THE MOOD FOR STEAK. IT IS SIMPLE TO GRASP THAT PINOT NOIR, HORSERADISH, BÉARNAISE, AND ASPARAGUS ARE PRETTY SAFE BETS. BUT BETWEEN THE WORLD-CLASS BEEF, THE METHOD OF COOKING, AND THE PRESENTATION, THIS MEAT-AND-POTATOES DISH IS ANYTHING BUT MUNDANE. POACHING THE KOBE BEEF NICE AND SLOW IN CLARIFIED BUTTER IS A NONAGGRESSIVE WAY TO GET THE MOST OUT OF IT. THE THEORY BEHIND THIS PREPARATION IS THAT BY FIRST COOKING THE BEEF IN THE BUTTER, THEN SEARING IT, THE MEAT WILL NOT TIGHTEN UP AND SHRINK FROM THE HIGH HEAT. BRIEFLY SEARING THE BEEF LEAVES THE INTERIOR MEDIUM-RARE AND THE OUTSIDE CARAMELIZED JUST ENOUGH FOR A LITTLE CHARRED FLAVOR. THE MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH TEXTURE IS MEANT TO BE CLOSER TO A FINE HUNK OF TUNA THAN BEEF.
TO ME, RIB EYE IS ONE OF THE MOST FLAVORFUL CUTS OF MEAT. I PREFER IT TO FILET BECAUSE THE MEATY FLAVOR IS MORE INTENSE AND IT HAS A FIRM CUT. THE COMBINED CHARACTERISTICS OF UNMATCHED FLAVOR, TENDERNESS, AND CONSISTENCY MAKE KOBE RIB EYE MY CUT OF CHOICE.
LEWIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE, NAPA VALLEY 2002
This ripe and powerful Cabernet Sauvignon is a perfect match for beef and especially for the rich preparations of the rib eye in this all-American dish, with three classic preparations. A big Syrah could very well be used as a substitute.
SERVES 4
Tales of the Kobe beef cattle being massaged with sake and fed a special diet enriched with beer are culinary legend. It is reputed that all the love and care the cows receive help produce meat that’s extraordinarily tender, finely marbled, and full flavored. If you have never tasted this buttery, nearly sweet beef before, you are in for a culinary revelation. However, Kobe beef that you see on menus in the States most likely isn’t genuine Kobe. Just as the only true champagne is bottled in France’s Champagne, the only beef that merits the official Kobe name is actually from that region of Japan. Thankfully, Kobe-style beef is now raised domestically. Here, as in Japan, the livestock come from the heirloom breed “Wagyu, ” which translates to “Japanese cattle.” In the U.S., Kobe beef is a crossbreed of American cattle (usually Black Angus) and Wagyu, which are raised in accordance with exacting Kobe standards. I stand by the Idaho ranch Snake River Farms for their methodical, specialized regimen and hormone-free ethics (see Sources, page 242). They sell a full range of cuts and grades of high-quality beef that is properly aged and handled with care.
| 6 | CUPS (1 1/2 QUARTS) CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
| 3 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 6 | FRESH THYME SPRIGS |
| FOUR | 6-OUNCE BONELESS RIB EYE STEAKS, PREFERABLY KOBE-STYLE |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| MALDON SEA SALT, FOR SERVING | |
| 1 | CUP PINOT NOIR REDUCTION (PAGE 221) |
BRING A LARGE saucepan of water to a simmer over medium-low heat. Combine the Clarified Butter, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme in a metal bowl or pan just large enough to sit over the simmering water without letting the bottom touch. Gently heat the butter to 135°F on a frying thermometer. Make sure the butter hovers somewhere between 135 and 140°F, as this will ensure that the meat is cooked to a perfect medium-rare.
SEASON THE BEEF heavily with salt and pepper, and completely submerge the steaks in the warm butter. The temperature of the fat will drop slightly. Using tongs to rotate the meat occasionally, poach for a minimum of 25 to 30 minutes or up to an hour or more. As long as the temperature of the butter stays below 140°F the meat won’t overcook. Check the temperature often with the thermometer so that it remains a constant temperature.
WHEN READY TO serve, using tongs, remove the beef from the pan, allowing the excess butter to drip off. Season it well with salt and pepper. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, and when hot, coat with 2 tablespoons of the Clarified Butter. Add the steaks and sear all sides until well browned. (At this point, the meat is already cooked through from the poaching; you just want a slight crust on the outside for texture.) Transfer the beef to a cutting board and let rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute. Slice each steak against the grain into about 5 slices. Season lightly with Maldon sea salt.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
HORSERADISH MASHED POTATOES
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
| 4 | RUSSET POTATOES, PEELED AND QUARTERED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT, PLUS MORE FOR SEASONING |
| 1 | CUP HEAVY CREAM |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS GRATED FRESH OR PREPARED HORSERADISH |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PLACE THE POTATOES in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Add about 1 tablespoon of salt to the water. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook at a gentle simmer until there is no resistance when a fork is inserted into the potatoes, 20 to 25 minutes.
DRAIN THE POTATOES and immediately pass them through a food mill or potato ricer into a large mixing bowl. (If you do not have a ricer or food mill you can use a fork for chunky potatoes or a hand mixer or immersion blender for a smoother consistency.)
PLACE THE CREAM in a small saucepan over low heat to warm through. Add the cream to the potatoes along with the butter and horseradish. Stir with a wooden spoon to blend. Season with salt and pepper. You can add more or less cream to achieve the consistency that you like. Cover and keep warm over low heat.
ROASTED CIPOLLINI ONIONS
| 1/2 | POUND CIPOLLINI ONIONS, PEELED (ABOUT 2 CUPS) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 2 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F.
PLACE THE ONIONS on a large piece of aluminum foil and drizzle with the oil. Toss the thyme and bay leaf on top and season generously with salt and pepper. Fold up the edges and pinch the foil tightly to seal. Place the package on a sheet pan and roast until the onions are very tender, about 30 minutes.
HORSERADISH CREAM
MAKES 2/3 CUP
| 2 | SHALLOTS, SLICED |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1 | CUP HEAVY CREAM |
| 1 | TABLESPOON GRATED FRESH OR PREPARED HORSERADISH |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE SHALLOTS and wine in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until almost dry, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and horseradish. Continue to simmer and stir until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not allow the cream to boil. Pass the horseradish cream through a fine-mesh strainer to smooth out the sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.
BUTTERMILK ONION RINGS
| 1 | MEDIUM RED ONION, CUT CROSSWISE INTO 1/8-INCH-THICK SLICES |
| 1 | CUP BUTTERMILK |
| CANOLA OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING | |
| 1 | CUP WONDRA FLOUR |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
SEPARATE THE ONION slices into rings, discarding the centers. Place in a shallow baking dish and pour the buttermilk on top, tossing to coat. Set aside to marinate for at least 20 minutes.
LINE A LARGE plate with paper towels and set aside.
FILL A LARGE heavy saucepan or deep fryer three-quarters full with oil, about 2 quarts. Heat to 360°F on a frying thermometer attached to the side of the pan.
SPREAD THE FLOUR out on a platter and generously season with salt and pepper. Dredge the onion rings in the seasoned flour, coating evenly. Shake off the excess. Carefully submerge the rings in the hot oil, stirring gently to ensure they don’t stick together and will cook evenly. Fry until light golden, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onion rings to the prepared plate. Lightly season with salt. Serve hot.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Evenly divide the Horseradish Mashed Potatoes among 4 plates, mounding just off center. Fan the Rib Eye slices over the potatoes and nestle the Roasted Onions next to them. Pour 1/4 cup of the Pinot Noir Reduction around the meat and drizzle some of the Horseradish Cream on top. Garnish with the hot Onion Rings.
SALT-BAKED YUKON POTATOES
At the restaurant, we serve this dish with small marble potatoes so guests enjoy a one-bite personal baked potato. For a more substantial serving, you can use creamer-sized potatoes. Baking the potatoes in salt not only adds flavor, but also aids in even cooking, as the salt helps to conduct the heat to the interior.
SERVES 4
| 2 | CUPS ROCK SALT |
| 4 | YUKON GOLD POTATOES, CREAMER SIZE |
| 1/4 | POUND BACON STRIPS |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED FRESH TARRAGON |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/2 | CUP CRÈME FRAÎCHE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 450°F.
SPRINKLE A THIN layer of rock salt on the bottom of a small baking dish. Nestle the potatoes into the salt, making sure that they are spaced evenly. Completely cover the potatoes with the remaining rock salt. Transfer to the oven and bake until a knife can slide into the potatoes without resistance, about 1 hour.
WHILE THE POTATOES are baking, place a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until crisp. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. When cool, crumble the bacon and set aside.
IN A SMALL bowl, combine the butter and tarragon. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Set aside.
WHEN COOKED, REMOVE the potatoes from the salt crust, being sure to brush off all the excess. Cut the potatoes lengthwise and scoop out some of the insides with a spoon, leaving a thick shell; push the ends together to crown the top. Spoon about 1/2 tablespoon of the tarragon butter in each hollowed-out potato, top with crème fraîche, crumbled bacon, and chives.
GRILLED ASPARAGUS
| 1 | BUNCH ASPARAGUS, BOTTOMS TRIMMED ZEST OF 1 LEMON, FINELY GRATED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREHEAT AND OIL a grill or preheat a broiler.
IF THE ASPARAGUS is woody you may need to peel the tough outer stalk. Toss the asparagus with the lemon zest, oil, and salt and pepper. Place the asparagus on the grill or under the broiler, turning as needed until evenly browned. Take care that the tips do not burn. When the asparagus is tender, transfer to a plate and cover to keep warm.
CLASSIC BÉARNAISE
MAKES 1 1/4 CUPS
| 2 | SHALLOTS, CHOPPED |
| 2 | STEMS FRESH TARRAGON |
| 1/4 | CUP CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR |
| 1/4 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 3 | LARGE EGG YOLKS |
| 1 | CUP WARM CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH TARRAGON LEAVES |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE SHALLOTS, tarragon stems, vinegar, and wine in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until all but about 2 tablespoons of the liquid has evaporated. Strain, discarding the solids. Set aside to cool slightly.
COMBINE THE SHALLOT reduction and egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Whisk together until foamy. Place the bowl over a saucepan containing barely simmering water (or use a double boiler). The water should not touch the bottom of the bowl, as this will cook the eggs too quickly. Cook, whisking constantly, until yellow ribbons start to form. Slowly drizzle in the Clarified Butter and continue to whisk until thick and creamy. Remove from the heat, stir in the minced tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. It is important that the sauce not cool down or it will break.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Puddle 2 tablespoons of the Béarnaise on each of 4 plates, just off center. Arrange an equal portion of the Grilled Asparagus on top. Fan the Rib Eye slices over the asparagus and nestle the Salt-Baked Potatoes next to them. Pour 1/4 cup of the Pinot Noir Reduction around the meat.
| 4 | POTATO CAKES (SEE PAGE 176) 3-INCH SIZE |
| FOIE GRAS EMULSION (SEE PAGE 197) | |
| SEARED FOIE GRAS (SEE PAGE 29) |
PREPARE THE POTATO Cakes according to the directions in the recipe.
PREPARE THE FOIE Gras Emulsion according to the directions in the recipe.
PREPARE THE SEARED Foie Gras according to the directions in the recipe.
SAUTÉED GARLIC SPINACH
SERVES 4
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1 | POUND SPINACH, WELL-WASHED, STEMMED, AND DRIED (PREFERABLY SAVOY) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
MELT THE BUTTER in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and sauté until tender and fragrant. Using a wooden spoon, fold in the spinach to coat it in the garlic butter. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté just until wilted. Transfer the spinach to a clean kitchen towel to drain off the excess liquid. Cover and keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Set a Potato Cake in the center of each of 4 plates. Place a small pile of Sautéed Spinach on top. Fan the Rib Eye slices over the spinach and set a Seared Foie Gras medallion on top. Pour 1/4 cup of the Pinot Noir Reduction around the meat and drizzle the Foie Gras Emulsion on top.
CUCUMBER RAITA, MINT GREMOLATA, HEIRLOOM TABBOULEH
HARISSA RATATOUILLE, ROSEMARY GREMOLATA, ROSEMARY-SCENTED BABY POTATOES
MATSUTAKE GARAM MASALA, CILANTRO GREMOLATA, DATE BASMATI
MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, RACK OF LAMB IS ROASTED ON THE BONE, AS THIS METHOD RESULTS IN MOISTER MEAT, WITH THE BONE PROVIDING PROTECTION AND FLAVOR. HOWEVER, THE EXTERIOR AT THE BASE OF THE BONE IS THE TOUGHEST SPOT TO ROAST EVENLY WITHOUT THE EXTERIOR GETTING OVERDONE AND THE TIPS BURNED. I FIND THAT POACHING THE LAMB YIELDS CONSISTENT RESULTS; IT IS PERFECTLY COOKED WITH THE ENTIRE EYE EVENLY RED. FROM A RESTAURANT STANDPOINT, THIS COOKING METHOD IS ALSO A BONUS BECAUSE THE LAMB CAN HOLD IN THE OIL AND THEN BE QUICKLY SEARED AT THE LAST MINUTE. ASK THE BUTCHER TO REMOVE THE CHINE BONE (BACKBONE) FROM EACH RACK OF LAMB, TO CLEAN AND FRENCH THE RIBS, AND TRIM THE FAT CAP ON THE MEAT.
IN THIS RECIPE, GENTLY POACHING THE LAMB IN FRUITY OLIVE OIL ENHANCES THE MEDITERRANEAN THEME OF THE ENTIRE DISH. THE PROGRESSION OF TASTES BUILDS ONE UPON ANOTHER. CUCUMBER AND TABBOULEH IS A FRESH OPENER, FOLLOWED BY THE POWERFUL TEAM OF HARISSA AND ROSEMARY, ENDING WITH A STRONG FINISH OF CURRY AND DATES. THE PALETTE OF TRIOS WORKS SEPARATELY AS WELL.
QUPÉ SYRAH HILLSIDE, SANTA MARIA VALLEY 2001
Qupé is one of the greatest California syrah producers. The smoky and gamy flavors of Syrah and lamb are a pairing made in heaven. Other wines such as Chateauneuf du Pape and domestic Grenache also pair nicely.
SERVES 4
| 6 | CUPS OLIVE OIL |
| 4 | SPRIGS FRESH ROSEMARY |
| 2 | SHALLOTS, HALVED |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | HEAD OF GARLIC, HALVED |
| 2 | RACKS OF LAMB (1 1/2 POUNDS EACH), TRIMMED AND FRENCHED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| MALDON SEA SALT |
BRING A LARGE saucepan of water to a simmer over medium-low heat. Combine the oil, rosemary, shallots, bay leaves, and garlic in a metal bowl or pan just large enough to sit over the simmering water without letting the bottom touch. Gently heat the oil to 135°F on a frying thermometer. Make sure the oil hovers somewhere between 135 and 140°F, as this will ensure that the meat is cooked to a perfect medium-rare.
SEASON THE LAMB heavily with salt and pepper, and completely submerge the meat in the warm oil. The temperature of the fat will drop slightly. Using tongs to rotate the meat occasionally, poach for a minimum of 25 to 30 minutes or up to an hour or more. As long as the temperature of the oil stays below 140°F the meat won’t overcook. Check the temperature often with the thermometer so that it remains a constant temperature.
WHEN READY TO serve, using tongs, remove the lamb from the pan, allowing the excess oil to drip off. Season it well with salt and pepper. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and, when hot, coat with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the lamb and sear both sides until well browned. (At this point, the meat is already cooked through from the poaching; you just want a slight crust on the outside for texture.) Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let rest for at least 10 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute. Carve the lamb into chops. Season lightly with Maldon sea salt.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
CUCUMBER RAITA
Raita, a fresh yogurt sauce that typically accompanies curries and other Indian dishes, is designed to be a cooling counterbalance to spiciness. Draining the yogurt and patting the cucumber dry removes excess liquid that would otherwise make the raita runny.
| 2 | CUPS PLAIN WHOLE-MILK YOGURT |
| 6 | FRESH DILL SPRIGS, CHOPPED |
| 1 | ENGLISH CUCUMBER, PEELED, SEEDED, HALVED, THINLY SLICED IN HALF MOONS, AND PATTED DRY |
| JUICE OF 1/2 LEMON | |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON PAPRIKA |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
LINE A STRAINER with cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Place the yogurt in the strainer and cover with plastic wrap. Transfer the bowl and strainer to the refrigerator to drain overnight.
THE NEXT DAY, combine the drained yogurt, dill, cucumber, lemon, and paprika in a small bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Stir well to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to let the flavors marry. Stir again before serving.
MINT GREMOLATA
| 1 | LEMON |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| 1/4 | CUP CHOPPED FRESH MINT |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
USING A VEGETABLE peeler or sharp paring knife, carefully remove wide strips of lemon zest. Do not include the bitter white pith. Finely chop the zest into small pieces. (Although it may seem faster to simply use a zester or microplane, too much oil comes out of the peel, making the gremolata clumpy.) Cut the peeled lemon in half and squeeze out the juice.
PLACE THE GARLIC clove on a cutting board and sprinkle with the salt. With the side of a chef’s knife, mash and smear the garlic into a coarse paste.
IN A SMALL bowl, mix the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic paste, mint, and oil. Season with a pinch of pepper. Cover and set aside.
HEIRLOOM TABBOULEH
| 1 | CUP BULGUR WHEAT (FINE-MEDIUM GRIND) |
| 1 | CUP HOT WATER |
| 3 | ASSORTED RIPE HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, SUCH AS BRANDYWINE, GREEN ZEBRA, AND SUNGOLD, PEELED, CORED, SEEDED, AND CHOPPED |
| 2 | SCALLIONS, WHITE AND GREEN PARTS, FINELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | CUP CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1/2 | CUP CHOPPED FRESH MINT |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON ALLSPICE |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| JUICE OF 1 LEMON | |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
PLACE THE BULGUR in a large heatproof bowl and pour in the hot water. Cover and let stand for about 20 minutes to rehydrate until all of the water is absorbed.
IN A MIXING bowl, combine the tomatoes, scallions, parsley, and mint. Toss the salad well to incorporate the ingredients. Add the cumin, allspice, salt and pepper. Add the bulgur, lemon juice, and olive oil. Fold together to incorporate. You can serve immediately, but the flavor will improve if the tabbouleh sits for a couple of hours at room temperature.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Mound equal portions of the Heirloom Tabbouleh in the center of each of 4 plates. Stand 2 Rack of Lamb chops around it and drizzle with the Mint Gremolata. Serve the Cucumber Raita in small bowls on the side.
HARISSA SAUCE
MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
| 2 | ROASTED RED PEPPERS, PEELED, SEEDED, AND COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1 | SMALL RED CHILE, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| 1 | TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES |
| 1 | TEASPOON GROUND CORIANDER |
| 1 | TEASPOON GROUND CARAWAY |
| 1 | TEASPOON GROUND CUMIN |
| 1 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
COMBINE THE PEPPERS, garlic, chile, parsley, oil, pepper flakes, coriander, caraway, cumin, and salt in a food processor. Pulse until the sauce is well blended and smooth, adding a little more oil or water to thin it out if necessary.
HARISSA WILL KEEP covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
RATATOUILLE
| 1/4 | CUP PLUS 1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL |
| 1 | YELLOW BELL PEPPER, PEELED, SEEDED, AND DICED |
| 1 | RED BELL PEPPER, PEELED, SEEDED, AND DICED |
| 1 | SMALL GREEN ZUCCHINI, DICED |
| 1 | SMALL YELLOW ZUCCHINI, DICED |
| 1 | JAPANESE EGGPLANT, DICED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/2 | RED ONION, DICED |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1/4 | CUP TOMATO PASTE |
| PINCH OF GROUND CORIANDER | |
| PINCH OF GROUND FENNEL SEED |
PLACE A LARGE sauté pan over medium-high heat and coat with 1/4 cup of the oil. Once the oil is hazy, add the peppers and cook for 1 minute. Add the zucchini and eggplant and sauté until the vegetables soften slightly but retain their crunch and vibrant color, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a large bowl.
RETURN THE PAN to medium-high heat and coat with the remaining tablespoon of oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the tomato paste, along with 1/4 cup of water, and continue to cook until thick and deep red. Remove from heat and add to the bowl of sautéed vegetables. Season with coriander, fennel, salt, and pepper, folding to incorporate. Cover to keep warm. Just before serving, fold 1/2 cup of the Harissa Sauce into the ratatouille.
ROSEMARY GREMOLATA
| 1 | LEMON |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHOPPED FRESH ROSEMARY |
| 1/4 | CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
USING A VEGETABLE peeler or sharp paring knife, carefully remove wide strips of lemon zest. Do not include the bitter white pith. Finely chop the zest into small pieces. (Although it may seem faster to simply use a zester or microplane, too much oil comes out of the peel, making the gremolata clumpy.) Cut the peeled lemon in half and squeeze out the juice.
PLACE THE GARLIC clove on a cutting board and sprinkle with the salt. With the side of a chef’s knife, mash and smear the garlic into a coarse paste.
IN A SMALL bowl, mix the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic paste, rosemary, and oil. Season with a pinch of pepper. Cover and set aside.
ROSEMARY-SCENTED BABY POTATOES
| 1 | POUND NEW POTATOES, SCRUBBED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| 4 | SHALLOTS, THICKLY SLICED |
| 2 | SPRIGS FRESH ROSEMARY |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH ROSEMARY NEEDLES, FOR GARNISH |
PLACE THE POTATOES in a small saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Pour in enough oil to cover the potatoes completely. Add the shallots and rosemary sprigs. Place over medium heat and simmer until the potatoes are fork tender, about 20 minutes.
REMOVE FROM THE heat and strain. Remove and discard the rosemary. Transfer the potatoes and shallots to a serving bowl and season with salt and pepper, tossing to combine. Garnish with chopped rosemary.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Mound equal portions of the Ratatouille onto each of 4 plates. Stand 2 Rack of Lamb chops around it and drizzle with the Rosemary Gremolata. Serve the Rosemary Potatoes in small bowls on the side.
MATSUTAKE GARAM MASALA
A special autumn delicacy, the Japanese mushroom matsutake (“pine mushroom”) is prized for its magnificently spicy scent, similar to cinnamon. The strong, foresty-clean fragrance is a result of where it grows—under the base of old pine trees (and curiously never in the same place twice). This mushroom imitates the truffle, which lends its earthy perfume to any preparation it encounters. The matsutake’s steaklike texture resembles the meaty oyster or porcini mushroom, which may be used as a substitute. Fresh matsutakes are not easily cultivated and are available only in limited amounts in the fall, so they tend to be pricey. Dried matsutakes can be purchased year-round.
| 2 | CUPS DRIED MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS (MAY SUBSTITUTE OYSTER OR PORCINI), WIPED OF GRIT AND SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 4 | CLOVES GARLIC, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 3-INCH | PIECE FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND CHOPPED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TO 3 TABLESPOONS GARAM MASALA OR CURRY POWDER |
| 4 | ROMA TOMATOES, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | TEASPOON SUGAR |
| 1 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 2 | CUPS CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
PLACE THE MUSHROOMS in a small heatproof bowl with 2 cups boiling water. Set aside to steep until they are very soft, about 20 minutes. Pass the mushrooms and liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or coffee filter, discarding the liquid. Rinse the mushrooms under running water to remove any residual sand. Set aside.
PLACE A SAUCEPAN over medium heat and coat with the oil. When the oil is hot, add the garlic, onion, and ginger and sauté until moisture has cooked off and the vegetables are caramelized, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the garam masala and cook until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook and stir until they soften and the vegetable mixture has thickened, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the sugar.
ADD THE WINE and stir to deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid is almost totally evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Using a standard or immersion blender, blend the vegetable mixture until it is a fairly smooth and slightly thick sauce.
PLACE A CLEAN medium sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter. When melted, add the mushrooms. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until their moisture evaporates and the mushrooms begin to brown, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. When the mushrooms are caramelized, add 2 cups of the garam masala sauce, stirring to combine. Cover to keep warm.
CILANTRO GREMOLATA
| 1 | LEMON |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| 1/4 | CUP CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO |
| 1 | TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL |
| FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
USING A VEGETABLE PEELER OR SHARP PARING KNIFE, CAREFULLY REMOVE WIDE STRIPS OF LEMON ZEST. DO NOT INCLUDE THE BITTER WHITE PITH. FINELY CHOP THE ZEST INTO SMALL PIECES. (ALTHOUGH IT MAY SEEM FASTER TO SIMPLY USE A ZESTER OR MICROPLANE, TOO MUCH OIL COMES OUT OF THE PEEL, MAKING THE GREMOLATA CLUMPY.) CUT THE PEELED LEMON IN HALF AND squeeze out the juice.
PLACE THE GARLIC clove on a cutting board and sprinkle with the salt. With the side of a chef’s knife, mash and smear the garlic into a coarse paste.
IN A SMALL bowl, mix the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic paste, cilantro, and oil. Season with a pinch of pepper. Cover and set aside.
DATE BASMATI
| 1 1/2 | CUPS BASMATI RICE |
| 2 | CUPS WATER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| PINCH OF SAFFRON THREADS | |
| 8 | DATES, PITTED AND CHOPPED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO |
IN A SMALL saucepan, combine 3/4 cup of the rice, 1 cup water, 1/2 tablespoon butter, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. In another small saucepan, combine the remaining rice, water, butter, and salt, along with the saffron. Place both saucepans over medium-high heat and bring to a boil.
WHEN BOILING, GIVE a stir, cover, and reduce the heat to very low. Simmer until the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork.
JUST BEFORE SERVING, combine the white and saffron rices, taking care to distribute the colors evenly. Fold in the dates and cilantro.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Mound an equal portion of the Date Basmati onto each of 4 plates. Stand the 2 Rack of Lamb chops around it, and drizzle with the Cilantro Gremolata. Serve the Matsutake Garam Masala in small bowls on the side.
STAR ANISE AND FENNEL FARRO, NAVEL ORANGE MARMALADE, SAFFRON FOAM
CUMIN AND BEET BARLEY, GREEN APPLE MARMALADE, RED PEPPER FOAM
CINNAMON AND MOREL COUSCOUS, BING CHERRY MARMALADE, ARUGULA FOAM
I GET PARTICULARLY CREATIVE WHEN FEATURING GAME BIRDS ON THE MENU BECAUSE THEIR ASSERTIVE FLAVORS ARE ALWAYS ATTENTION GETTERS. SQUAB (ALSO CALLED PIGEON) IS A BIRD ABOUT 1 MONTH OLD WITH TENDER RED MEAT AND A LIGHT GAMY FLAVOR. ALTHOUGH TECHNICALLY POULTRY, SQUAB DEFINITELY DOES NOT TASTE JUST LIKE CHICKEN—IT IS ACTUALLY MUCH MORE LIKE BEEF OR LAMB. ITS PRONOUNCED FLAVOR IS BEST APPRECIATED WHEN COOKED ON THE RARE SIDE. SQUAB TASTES ALMOST LIKE A REALLY INTENSE DUCK, ENLIVENED BY FRUITY AND ACIDIC FLAVORS. SQUAB ACCENTED WITH MEDALLIONS OF FOIE GRAS IS A PRETTY LUSH PAIRING (IT IS ALSO PRETTY PHENOMENAL). THE TROIKA OF GRAINS IN THE VARIATIONS IS A WONDERFUL VEHICLE TO SUSTAIN THESE TRANSCENDENT FLAVORS, PROVIDING A NUTTY TEXTURE AND AN EARTHY BACKDROP TO ANCHOR THE DISH. LECITHIN, OFTEN THE NATURAL EMULSIFIER THAT KEEPS CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER FROM SEPARATING IN A CANDY BAR, IS THE MAGIC POWDER THAT STABILIZES THE FOAMS ON THE SQUAB, KEEPING THEM AERATED WITH TINY BUBBLES FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. IT IS POSSIBLE TO STILL FROTH THE LIQUID WITHOUT THE LECITHIN, BUT THE FOAM WILL NOT HOLD AS LONG. LECITHIN IS AVAILABLE IN POWDER, LIQUID, OR PELLETLIKE GRANULES, AND ALL ARE SUITABLE IN THIS APPLICATION.
COPAIN PINOT NOIR ‘HEIN,’ ANDERSON VALLEY 2003
A ripe and voluptuous Pinot Noir marries very well with this squab preparation. Because the dish is somewhat sweet, the wine needs to be soft and have loads of fruit. A red Burgundy might work, but it may be too austere (unless we use a modern producer). Copain is one of the new stars producing excellent wines from California’s Anderson Valley.
SERVES 4
| FOUR | 1-POUND WHOLE SQUABS, INNARDS AND EXCESS FAT REMOVED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 3 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 4 | SEARED FOIE GRAS MEDALLIONS (PAGE 29) |
USING A SHARP boning knife, remove the wings, legs, and breasts from the squab. Reserve the carcasses and wings for the Squab Stock and the legs for the Squab Leg Confit.
SEASON THE SQUAB breasts generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, lay the squab, skin side down, in the hot pan and sear until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the thyme, shallot, and butter. Using tongs, turn the squab and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, basting with the butter. Transfer the squab to a platter and set aside to rest 5 minutes.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
Although the confit is delicious the day it is made, it gets even better after a day or two in the refrigerator. Don’t throw away the leftover duck fat; it adds that extra something to fried potatoes and eggs.
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | CARDAMOM POD |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CORIANDER SEEDS |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | TEASPOON FRESH THYME LEAVES |
| 1 | CUP KOSHER SALT |
| 1/3 | CUP SUGAR |
| 8 | SQUAB LEGS, RESERVED FROM THE 4 WHOLE SQUAB |
| ABOUT 2 CUPS WARM RENDERED DUCK FAT, TO COVER (SEE SOURCES) |
COMBINE THE BAY leaves, cardamom, coriander seeds, peppercorns, and thyme in a dry skillet over low heat. Toast for just a minute to release the fragrant oils, shaking the pan so they do not scorch. Remove from the heat and place in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder. Grind to a coarse powder. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the salt and sugar to evenly combine.
SPREAD A QUARTER of the salt cure on the bottom of a small baking dish. Rub some of the remaining salt cure over the squab legs to completely cover. Arrange the legs in a single layer in the baking dish. Sprinkle the remaining salt cure on top to bury the legs. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 275°F.
REMOVE THE SQUAB legs from the cure, rinse well under cold water, and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the legs in a single layer in a small baking pan. Pour the warm duck fat over them to cover. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Transfer to the oven and roast until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone, about 2 1/2 hours. Remove from the oven and let the squab cool completely in the fat.
ONCE COOL, REMOVE the legs from the pan. Pull the meat off the bones, discarding the skin and bones. You should have about 1 cup of shredded meat. Cover and refrigerate. Reserve the fat for another use, if desired (see headnote).
USE AS DIRECTED in the recipe you are making.
MAKES 2 QUARTS
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 4 | SQUAB CARCASSES, RESERVED FROM 4 WHOLE SQUAB |
| 8 | SQUAB WINGS, RESERVED FROM 4 WHOLE SQUAB |
| 4 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, CHOPPED |
| 1 | STALK CELERY, CHOPPED |
| 1 | CARROT, CHOPPED |
| 4 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 4 | SPRIGS FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 3 | QUARTS CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
HEAT THE OIL in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Lay the squab carcasses and wings in the pot and sear, turning frequently, for 8 to 10 minutes, until well browned on all sides. Carefully pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat. Add the garlic, onion, celery, carrot, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables have sweated their liquid and caramelized, about 15 minutes.
ADD THE WINE and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Simmer until the wine has reduced, about 3 minutes. Add the Stock and simmer until all the flavors have come together and the stock has reduced and thickened, 30 to 40 minutes.
USING TONGS, REMOVE and discard the squab pieces. Pass the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container. You should have 2 quarts of fairly viscous squab stock.
USE AS DIRECTED in the recipe you are making.
SQUAB DEMI-GLACE
| 1 | QUART SQUAB STOCK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS COLD UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CHUNKS |
PLACE THE SQUAB Stock in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to a little more than 1 cup, 20 to 30 minutes. The Demi-Glace should have deep color and be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Just before serving, whisk in the cold butter to finish the sauce. Keep warm.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
STAR ANISE AND FENNEL FARRO
| 3 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 1/2 | YELLOW ONION, MINCED |
| 1/2 | FENNEL BULB, TRIMMED, CORED, AND MINCED, FRONDS RESERVED |
| 4 | WHOLE STAR ANISE |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 2 | TEASPOONS GROUND FENNEL |
| 1 | CUP WHOLE-GRAIN FARO |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS SQUAB STOCK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1/2 | CUP SQUAB CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHOPPED |
HEAT A SAUCEPAN over medium-low heat and coat with the oil. When hot, add the onion and fennel. Sauté until the vegetables have sweated their liquid and are translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the star anise, bay leaf, and fennel, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the farro and toss to toast lightly. Season with salt and pepper.
WHEN THE FARRO smells nutty, after 3 to 5 minutes, pour in the stock, and give it a stir. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the farro has popped open and is tender and fluffy, 25 to 30 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.
REMOVE AND DISCARD the star anise and bay leaf. Fold in the Squab Confit to evenly distribute and heat through. Cover to keep warm.
JUST BEFORE SERVING, blanch the reserved fennel fronds and purée in a blender with 2 tablespoons of cold water until smooth and bright green. Mix the fennel liquid into the farro to evenly distribute.
Note: Farro. This nutritious ancient Italian grain has fed the Mediterranean and Near Eastern populations for thousands of years. A hulled grain, farro cooks up beautifully, retaining the firm chewy texture of wheat berries because it is low in gluten and thus is not overly starchy. The nutty flavor and sturdy texture can hold up to robust flavors such as meat, red wine, and onion. Farro is processed in a whole or cracked form, but I prefer whole because it holds up better; either can be found in specialty food stores or mail-order suppliers. Grains like millet, spelt, bulgur, and barley also make good candidates.
NAVEL ORANGE MARMALADE
| JUICE OF 6 NAVEL ORANGES (ABOUT 2 CUPS) | |
| ZEST OF 1 NAVEL ORANGE | |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 | WHOLE STAR ANISE |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1/2 | CUP SUGAR |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON POWDERED FRUIT PECTIN |
| 1 | NAVEL ORANGE, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (PAGE 225) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHOPPED FENNEL FRONDS |
COMBINE THE ORANGE juice, zest, shallot, star anise, and peppercorns in a small saucepan over low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 10 minutes to infuse the aromatics. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan, discarding the solids.
PLACE OVER HIGH heat and add the sugar, stirring to dissolve. Mix in the pectin and, stirring constantly, boil hard until the mixture thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and fold in the orange segments and fennel fronds.
SAFFRON FOAM
| PINCH OF SAFFRON THREADS | |
| 1 | TABLESPOON LECITHIN |
COMBINE THE SAFFRON and 1/2 cup hot water in a small bowl. Steep for 1 minute to bleed out the color. Stir in the lecithin.
JUST BEFORE YOU are ready to plate the dish, buzz the saffron water with an immersion blender, placing the blades just below the surface and moving them up and down to foam the top (it should resemble steamed milk for cappuccino). Blend until thick and frothy. Rake off the foamy surface with a tablespoon.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Preheat the broiler. Using a sharp knife, cut each Squab Breast into 3 slices. Cut the Seared Foie Gras medallions into 4 slices. Starting with a piece of squab, alternate the foie gras and squab pieces on a lined sheet pan. Spoon a few tablespoons of the Orange Marmalade over the pieces to lightly glaze. Place under the broiler and broil just until the sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute.
MOUND EQUAL PORTIONS of the Fennel Farro among each of 4 serving plates. Shingle an equal portion of the glazed meats on top of the grain, and garnish with the remaining marmalade. Drizzle the Squab Demi-Glace around the plates and place a couple of spoonfuls of the Saffron Foam on top.
CUMIN AND BEET BARLEY
| 4 | RED BABY BEETS, SCRUBBED |
| 4 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 3 | CUPS SQUAB STOCK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1/2 | YELLOW ONION, MINCED |
| GRATED ZEST OF 1 LEMON | |
| 1 | TABLESPOON GROUND CUMIN |
| 1 | CUP BARLEY |
| 1/2 | CUP SQUAB CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHOPPED |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 375°F.
RUB THE BEETS with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap each beet individually in aluminum foil and place on a baking pan. Transfer to the oven and roast until a knife meets no resistance when a beet is pierced, 30 to 40 minutes. Carefully unwrap the beets, and when cool enough to handle, rub off the skins with paper towels. Coarsely chop the beets and put them in a blender or food processor with 1 cup of the Squab Stock. Process to a smooth purée. Set aside.
HEAT THE REMAINING 2 tablespoons oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil becomes hazy, add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon zest and cumin, stirring until fragrant. Season with salt and pepper.
ADD THE BARLEY and toss to toast lightly. Stir in the beet purée and remaining 2 cups of Squab Stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the barley is tender and looks crimson red, 25 to 30 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.
REMOVE FROM THE heat and fold in the Squab Confit to distribute and heat through. Cover to keep warm.
GREEN APPLE MARMALADE
| 1 | GRANNY SMITH APPLE, PEELED, CORED, AND CHOPPED |
| JUICE AND ZEST OF 1 LEMON | |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 | CINNAMON STICK |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 2 | CUPS APPLE JUICE, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 3/4 | CUP SUGAR |
| 1 | TEASPOON POWDERED FRUIT PECTIN 1/2 RED APPLE |
| 1/2 | GREEN APPLE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHOPPED FRESH CHERVIL |
COMBINE THE APPLE, lemon juice and zest, shallot, cinnamon, peppercorns, and apple juice in a saucepan over low heat. Simmer gently for 10 minutes to infuse the aromatics. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan, discarding the solids.
PLACE OVER HIGH heat and add the sugar, stirring to dissolve. Mix in the pectin and, stirring constantly, boil hard until the mixture thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Using a small melon baller, scoop out balls from the red and green apples, including the skin (typically called a parisienne ball). If you prefer, cut the apples into small dice. Fold in the apple balls and chervil.
RED PEPPER FOAM
| 1 | ROASTED RED PEPPER, PEELED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON LECITHIN |
PASS THE PEPPER through a juicer. Place the juice in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and stir in the lecithin.
JUST BEFORE YOU are ready to plate the dish, buzz the pepper juice with an immersion blender, placing the blades just below the surface and moving them up and down to foam the top (it should resemble steamed milk for cappuccino). Blend until thick and frothy. Rake off the foamy surface with a tablespoon.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Preheat the broiler. Using a sharp knife, cut each Squab Breast into 3 slices. Cut the Seared Foie Gras medallions into 4 slices. Starting with a piece of squab, alternate the foie gras and squab pieces on a foil-lined sheet pan. Spoon a few tablespoons of the Green Apple Marmalade over the pieces to lightly glaze. Place under the broiler and broil just until the sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute.
MOUND EQUAL PORTIONS of the Beet Barley among each of 4 serving plates. Shingle an equal portion of the glazed meats on top of the grain, and garnish with the remaining marmalade. Drizzle the Squab Demi-Glace around the plates and place a couple of spoonfuls of the Red Pepper Foam on top.
CINNAMON AND MOREL COUSCOUS
| 2 | TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL |
| 1/2 | YELLOW ONION, MINCED |
| 6 | MOREL MUSHROOMS, CHOPPED |
| 1/4 | TEASPOON GROUND CINNAMON |
| 1 | CUP COUSCOUS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | CUP SQUAB STOCK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1/2 | CUP SQUAB CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHOPPED |
PLACE A SAUCEPAN over medium-low heat and coat with the oil. When hot, add the onion and mushrooms. Sauté until the vegetables have sweated their liquid and the moisture has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle in the cinnamon and sauté until fragrant, 1 minute. Add the couscous and toss to toast lightly. Season with salt and pepper.
ADD THE SQUAB Stock, give it a stir, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the couscous is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.
FLUFF THE COUSCOUS with a fork and fold in the Squab Confit to distribute and heat through. Cover to keep warm.
BING CHERRY MARMALADE
| 1 | CUP PITTED BING CHERRIES, FRESH (OR FROZEN AND THAWED), CHOPPED |
| 1 | CUP CHERRY JUICE |
| JUICE AND ZEST OF 1 LIME | |
| 1 | SHALLOT, SLICED |
| 1 | CINNAMON STICK |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 3/4 | CUP SUGAR |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON POWDERED FRUIT PECTIN |
| 4 | FRESH BASIL LEAVES, CUT INTO SLIVERS |
| 1/4 | CUP SLICED BING CHERRIES |
COMBINE THE CHOPPED cherries and cherry juice, lime juice and zest, shallot, cinnamon, and peppercorns in a medium saucepan over low heat. Simmer gently for 10 minutes to infuse the aromatics. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan, discarding the solids.
PLACE OVER HIGH heat and add the sugar, stirring to dissolve. Mix in the pectin and, stirring constantly, boil hard until the marmalade thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and fold in the basil and sliced cherries.
ARUGULA FOAM
| 2 | TABLESPOONS KOSHER SALT |
| 1 | CUP ARUGULA LEAVES |
| 1 | TABLESPOON LECITHIN |
PREPARE AN ICE bath. Bring a large saucepan of water to a rolling boil over high heat and add the salt. Add the arugula, stirring the leaves into the water to immerse. Blanch for 30 seconds. Pour into a strainer and immediately plunge into the ice bath to stop the cooking process and lock in the vibrant green color. Remove the strainer from the ice water. Squeeze the arugula dry with a paper towel, and coarsely chop.
PLACE THE ARUGULA in a blender or food processor and add 1/2 cup ice water. Process to a smooth purée, about 1 minute. Pour the arugula purée into a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and stir in the lecithin.
JUST BEFORE YOU are ready to plate the dish, buzz the arugula water with an immersion blender, placing the blades just below the surface and moving them up and down to foam the top (it should resemble steamed milk for cappuccino). Blend until thick and frothy. Rake off the foamy surface with a tablespoon.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Preheat the broiler. Using a sharp knife, cut each Squab Breast into 3 slices. Cut the Seared Foie Gras medallions into 4 slices. Starting with a piece of squab, alternate the foie gras and squab pieces on a foil-lined sheet pan. Spoon a few tablespoons of the Cherry Marmalade over the pieces to lightly glaze. Place under the broiler and broil just until the sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute.
MOUND EQUAL PORTIONS of the Morel Couscous among each of 4 serving plates. Shingle an equal portion of the glazed meats on top of the grain, and garnish with the remaining marmalade. Drizzle the Squab Demi-Glace around the plates and place a couple of spoonfuls of the Arugula Foam on top.
ORANGE-GLAZED CARROTS, KUMQUAT RELISH, CARROT RISOTTO
RED WINE–GLAZED CABBAGE, APPLE RELISH, APPLE AND PORK RAVIOLI WITH HAZELNUT BROWN BUTTER
CREAMED CORN, BARBECUED PORK, TOMATO RELISH, CORN FRITTERS
THIS RUSTIC PROCESSION OF PORK WAS FIRST INTRODUCED AT THE LAUNCHING OF MICHAEL MINA IN SAN FRANCISCO, AND FOLKS STILL ASK ME ABOUT IT. IT IS MY VERSION OF HOME-STYLE PORK, BUT THE LEVEL OF FLAVOR GOES WELL BEYOND WHAT DINERS EXPECT FROM THESE SEEMINGLY ORDINARYINGREDIENTS. THE APPROACH IS BOTH CASUAL AND REFINED AS THE PRIMARY PROTEIN GETS ACCESSORIZED IN PARALLEL WAYS. PORK LOIN IS A FAIRLY LEAN AND MELLOW CUT, SO WRAPPING IT WITH FATTIER ITALIAN BACON (PANCETTA) NOT ONLY IMPARTS FLAVOR BUT HELPS TENDERIZE THE MEAT. MY PULLED PORK SHOULDER HAS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT TAKE THAN THE LOIN, WITH ITS DELICIOUSLY FATTY MEAT THAT LITERALLY FALLS APART, AND IT CAN BE MADE A DAY OR TWO IN ADVANCE.
CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, RHÔNE, FRANCE 2001
Château de Beaucastel is a blend of 13 grape varieties (mostly Grenache). This is a big wine with exotic flavors of blackberry, tea, and white pepper. The spiciness of the wine matches well with the spice elements in the dish (especially the barbecued pork). Other alternatives could be a soft Syrah, rich Pinot Noir, or even a Zinfandel.
SERVES 4
Often called the Kobe of pork, Kurobuta pork is a mighty fine piece of meat. The Berkshire breed, known industry-wide by its Japanese name, Kurobuta, is prized for its high fat content and unparalleled juiciness. Unlike traditional white pork that tends to be bland and dry, Kurobuta is visibly different. The meat is deep pink in color and well marbled, a unique characteristic for pork. Its superior flavor and meaty texture makes it taste almost like steak.
| ONE | 3-POUND BONELESS PORK LOIN, PREFERABLY KUROBUTA, EXCESS FAT TRIMMED |
| 1/4 | POUND PANCETTA, THINLY SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
CUT THE LOIN in half lengthwise and then again crosswise, so you wind up with 4 pieces of equal size. Unravel the spiraled slices of pancetta into long, thin strips. Coil the pancetta around the pork loin to cover completely. Season all sides generously with salt and pepper.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 375°F.
PLACE A LARGE ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat and coat with the oil. When the oil gets hazy, lay the pork in the pan, and sear, turning with tongs, until the pancetta is crispy on all sides, about 8 minutes.
CAREFULLY POUR OFF the fat and transfer the pan to the oven. Roast the pork for about 10 minutes, turning halfway through cooking to ensure even browning, until a meat thermometer inserted into the center registers 140°F.
REMOVE FROM THE oven and transfer the pork to a cutting board. Let rest for 10 minutes to allow the juices to settle. The internal temperature will also continue to rise from the carry-over heat. Cut the pork loin into 1/4-inch-thick slices. It should be rosy pink in the center.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
| 1/4 | CUP DARK BROWN SUGAR, LIGHTLY PACKED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS KOSHER SALT |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS PAPRIKA |
| 1 | TABLESPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON GROUND CORIANDER |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON DRY MUSTARD |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON ONION POWDER |
| ONE 3-POUND BONELESS PORK BUTT | |
| 1 1/2 | CUPS APPLE JUICE |
| 1/2 | CUP WATER |
COMBINE THE BROWN sugar, salt, paprika, pepper, coriander, mustard, and onion powder together in a small bowl. Rub the spice blend all over the pork and marinate, covered and refrigerated, for as long as you can, as little as 1 hour or up to overnight.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 300°F.
LAY THE PORK on a rack in a roasting pan. Add the apple juice and water. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and transfer to the oven. Roast for 5 hours. Remove the foil and continue to cook the pork until the outside is brown and the meat is very tender and falling apart, about 30 minutes.
REMOVE THE PORK from the oven and transfer to a large platter. Let the meat rest for about 10 minutes. While still warm, shred the pork into small pieces using 2 forks or your hands; you should have about 4 cups of shredded meat. Put the pulled pork in a bowl and set aside. This may be done a day or two in advance and stored, covered and refrigerated.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
ORANGE-GLAZED CARROTS
| 1/2 | CUP CARROT JUICE, STRAINED |
| 1/2 | CUP ORANGE JUICE, STRAINED |
| 1/2 | POUND BABY CARROTS, TOPS TRIMMED, QUARTERED LENGTHWISE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE CARROT and orange juices in a small saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Lay the carrots in the juice, tossing to coat. Continue to simmer until the carrots are just tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in the butter and lightly season with salt and pepper. The sauce should be thick enough to glaze the carrots. Cover to keep warm.
KUMQUAT RELISH
MAKES 1 CUP
| 16 | KUMQUATS, THINLY SLICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| JUICE OF 1 ORANGE (ABOUT 1/2 CUP) | |
| 1 | JALAPEÑO, STEMMED AND THINLY SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP SUGAR |
PLACE THE KUMQUATS in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Drain the water and then repeat this process two more times using fresh water. This will soften the kumquats and remove their bitterness.
ADD THE ORANGE juice, jalapeño, and sugar to the blanched kumquats and place the saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until they are coated in a golden syrup, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to come to room temperature.
CARROT RISOTTO
| 3 | CUPS CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1/2 | YELLOW ONION, CUT INTO SMALL DICE |
| 1 | CUP CARNAROLI OR ARBORIO RICE |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1 | CUP PULLED PORK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1 | CUP CARROT JUICE |
| 1/2 | CUP FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO |
PLACE THE CHICKEN Stock in a small saucepan over medium-low heat; keep warm at a low simmer. Do not let it boil.
PLACE A LARGE sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, and stir until the grains are opaque and slightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
ADD THE WINE and stir to deglaze the pan. Cook until the liquid has almost totally evaporated, about 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup of the warm stock, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Add another cup and keep stirring while adding the stock 1 cup at a time, allowing the rice to drink it in before adding more. Taste the risotto; it should be al dente—definitely not mushy but not raw either.
AFTER 15 MINUTES, fold in the Pulled Pork. Add the carrot juice as your last dose of liquid. Cook, stirring, for an additional 3 to 5 minutes to incorporate the pork and heat through. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Orange-Glazed Carrots among each of 4 plates. Distribute the Pork Loin slices equally on top of the carrots, and garnish with the Kumquat Relish. Serve the Carrot Risotto on the side.
RED WINE–GLAZED CABBAGE
| 1 | CUP DRY RED WINE, SUCH AS CABERNET SAUVIGNON |
| 1/4 | CUP RED WINE VINEGAR |
| 1/2 | CUP APPLE JUICE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SUGAR |
| 1 | SMALL HEAD RED CABBAGE, CORED AND SHREDDED (ABOUT 2 QUARTS) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 3 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
COMBINE THE WINE, vinegar, apple juice, and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat. When the liquid is hot and the sugar dissolved, add the cabbage. Season generously with salt and pepper. Simmer, stirring occasionally until the cabbage is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Just before serving, stir in the butter and let it melt into the cabbage.
APPLE RELISH
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | GALA APPLE |
| 1 | GRANNY SMITH APPLE |
| 1/2 | CUP APPLE JUICE |
| 3 | TABLESPOONS HONEY |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CIDER VINEGAR |
| 2 | FRESH SAGE LEAVES, CUT INTO SLIVERS |
| PINCH OF FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG | |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
USING A SMALL melon baller, scoop out balls from each apple, including the skin (typically called a parisienne ball). If you prefer, you can cut the apples into a small dice.
COMBINE THE APPLE juice, honey, and vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the apple balls and sage. Season with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid gets syrupy and the apples soften slightly but still hold their shape, 1 to 2 minutes. Cover to keep warm.
APPLE AND PORK RAVIOLI WITH HAZELNUT BROWN BUTTER
MAKES 2 DOZEN RAVIOLI
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1/4 | YELLOW ONION, PEELED AND DICED |
| 3 | FRESH SAGE LEAVES, CHOPPED |
| 1 | LARGE GRANNY SMITH APPLE, PEELED, CORED, AND DICED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP APPLE BRANDY, SUCH AS CALVADOS |
| 2 | CUPS PULLED PORK (FROM MASTER RECIPE), CHOPPED 1/4 CUP APPLESAUCE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS MASCARPONE, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE |
| 4 | STORE-BOUGHT SHEETS FRESH PASTA DOUGH, OR 1 RECIPE PASTA DOUGH (SEE PAGE 71), 12 TO 14 INCHES LONG BY 4 INCHES WIDE |
| 1 | LARGE EGG |
| ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR, FOR DUSTING |
HAZELNUT BROWN BUTTER
| 1 | RECIPE WARM BROWN BUTTER (SEE PAGE 70) |
| 4 | FRESH SAGE LEAVES, CHOPPED |
| 1/4 | CUP HAZELNUTS, TOASTED AND CHOPPED |
TO MAKE THE ravioli: Melt the butter in a small sauté pan over medium-low heat. When it gets foamy, add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 1 minute. Add the sage and apple and cook until the apple is softened but not mushy, 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the brandy and stir to deglaze the pan. Continue to cook until the liquid has evaporated, about 1 minute. Transfer the apple mixture to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.
FOLD THE PULLED Pork, applesauce, and mascarpone into the apple mixture to combine. Season generously with salt and pepper.
WHISK TOGETHER THE egg and 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl. Set aside.
DUST THE COUNTER and a sheet of pasta dough with flour. Using a 3-inch ring mold, cut out 12 circles. Working with 1 piece at a time, place a generous spoonful of the filling in the center of a pasta circle. Using a pastry brush, lightly coat the edge of the pasta around the filling. Top with another pasta circle to cover the filling. Using your fingertips, gently press out any air pockets around each mound of filling and seal the edges well. Dust the ravioli and a baking sheet with flour to prevent the pasta from sticking and lay out to dry slightly while assembling the remaining ravioli. You should get 6 filled ravioli per sheet of pasta.
WHEN READY TO serve, place the ravioli in plenty of boiling salted water and cook for 3 to 5 minutes (the ravioli will float to the surface when done). Using a strainer or slotted spoon, transfer the ravioli to a dry towel and dab dry.
TO MAKE THE Hazelnut Brown Butter: Place the Brown Butter in a small saucepan. Stir in the sage and hazelnuts, add the ravioli, and toss to coat. Serve immediately.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Wine-Glazed Cabbage among each of 4 plates. Distribute the Pork Loin slices equally on top and garnish with a spoonful of the Apple Relish. Serve the Apple and Pork Ravioli with Hazelnut Brown Butter on the side.
CREAMED CORN
| 1 | TEASPOON CANOLA OIL |
| 3 | SLICES OF BACON, CHOPPED |
| 1 | SHALLOT, MINCED |
| 1/4 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 2 | EARS SWEET YELLOW CORN, KERNELS CUT FROM THE COB (ABOUT 2 CUPS) |
| 3/4 | CUP HEAVY CREAM |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PLACE A LARGE sauté pan over medium-low heat and add the oil. When hot, add the bacon and fry until the fat is rendered but the bacon is not yet crisp, about 1 minute. Stir in the shallot and cook for a minute to coat in the fat. Add the wine and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add the corn and the cream and season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook until the corn loses its starchiness and the sauce is thick, about 5 minutes. Cover and keep warm over low heat.
BARBECUE SAUCE
| 2 | CUPS HICKORY OR APPLE-WOOD CHIPS, SOAKED FOR 10 MINUTES IN WATER AND DRAINED |
| 5 | ROMA TOMATOES, HALVED |
| 3 | RED BELL PEPPERS, HALVED, CORED, AND COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | JALAPEÑO, HALVED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 1/4 | POUND APPLE-WOOD SMOKED SLAB BACON, CHOPPED |
| 1/4 | CUP DARK BROWN SUGAR, LIGHTLY PACKED |
| 1 | CUP KETCHUP |
| 2 | TEASPOONS DRY MUSTARD |
| 1 | TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
| 1/2 | CUP APPLE CIDER VINEGAR |
| 1 | QUART VEAL STOCK (SEE PAGE 222) |
| 1 | CUP ORANGE JUICE, STRAINED |
| 4 | CUPS PULLED PORK (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
TO MAKE THE barbecue sauce: First, smoke the vegetables.
TO SMOKE THE vegetables outdoors: Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to low heat. If using a gas grill, place all the wood chips in the smoker box; if using a charcoal grill, toss the wood chips on the coals. Place the tomatoes, peppers, onions, and jalapeño in a disposable pie pan on the grill and cover with the lid. Smoke until the vegetables have softened and smell smoky, 10 to 15 minutes.
TO SMOKE THE vegetables indoors: Open the windows. Place the wood chips in a disposable pie pan or roasting pan. Place the tomatoes, peppers, onions, and jalapeño in a steamer basket or perforated pan and set over the chips. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and place over low heat. Smoke until the vegetables have softened and smell smoky, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the smoker.
HEAT THE OIL in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the bacon and fry for 2 minutes to render the fat. Add the smoked vegetables and sauté until they begin to soften and caramelize, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle in the brown sugar, stirring to dissolve. Stir in the ketchup, mustard, and pepper. Add the vinegar, stirring for a minute to evaporate. Pour in the Veal Stock and orange juice. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce is reduced by half and has thickened, 30 to 40 minutes.
POUR THE BARBECUE sauce into a food mill attached to a large saucepan. Run the sauce through the mill. Discard the solids. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning. Place the barbecue sauce over medium heat and fold in the pulled pork. Cook, stirring, to heat through, 3 to 5 minutes.
TOMATO RELISH
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | TEASPOON CANOLA OIL |
| 3 | SLICES BACON, CHOPPED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON DARK BROWN SUGAR |
| 1 | TABLESPOON APPLE CIDER VINEGAR |
| 1/2 | JALAPEÑO, MINCED |
| 1/2 | CUP DICED TOMATOES, PEELED AND SEEDED |
| 1/2 | CUP DICED RED BELL PEPPER |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED RED ONION |
| 1 | TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PLACE THE OIL in a small saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the bacon and fry until crisp, about 5 minutes. Stir in the brown sugar and vinegar to blend well.
ADD THE JALAPEÑO, tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, and chives. Season with salt and pepper and sauté for 1 minute to warm through and soften slightly. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
CORN FRITTERS
MAKES 2 DOZEN FRIT TERS
| 1 1/2 | CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR |
| 1 | TABLESPOON PLUS 1 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON SUGAR |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT, PLUS ADDITIONAL FOR SEASONING |
| 1 | TEASPOON CAYENNE |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
| 2 | EARS SWEET YELLOW CORN, KERNELS CUT FROM THE COB (ABOUT 2 CUPS) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS MINCED FRESH CHIVES |
| APPROXIMATELY 1 CUP ICE WATER | |
| CANOLA OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING |
COMBINE THE FLOUR, baking powder, sugar, salt, cayenne, black pepper, corn, and chives in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk in ice water until the mixture has the consistency of cake batter. Cover and refrigerate while heating the oil.
HEAT 3 INCHES of canola oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or deep fryer to 360°F on a frying thermometer attached to the side of the pan. Line a plate with a double thickness of paper towels and set aside.
REMOVE THE BATTER from the refrigerator and carefully spoon heaping tablespoonfuls into the hot oil, adding no more than 6 at a time. Fry until the fritters are golden brown on all sides, turning often, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to the prepared plate. While still hot, season with salt. Continue frying in batches of 6 until all of the batter is used.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Creamed Corn among each of 4 plates. Distribute the Pork Loin slices equally on top and garnish with the Tomato Relish. Serve the Barbecued Pork on the side topped by a few Corn Fritters.
