Even if you’re setting up your first kitchen, it’s unlikely that your cupboards are entirely bare. You’ve probably got a few pots, pans, and gadgets, food in your fridge and pantry, an appliance or two; in any case, you have the most important devices: stove, fridge, and sink. Or maybe you cook regularly and are fully stocked. Whatever your situation, I’ll help you take inventory and evaluate what you need to make everyday meal preparation hassle free and enjoyable. After that comes a guide to basic food prep and cooking techniques, from knife skills to sautéing and braising. This will become your go-to reference section whenever you have questions about a particular recipe or technique.
Setting Up Your Pantry
Cooking is more convenient if you always have certain ingredients on hand. Stocking a few key foods in the cupboard and fridge will make it far easier for you to cook when you want to.
With these essentials, you’ll be in good shape to cook most everything in this book. You can fill your pantry all at once or gradually, buying a few staples every time you hit the supermarket.
For the Cupboard
Every time I refer to olive oil in this book, I mean extra virgin. It doesn’t have to be expensive — though the really good stuff is — but it should be full- and clean-flavored. It helps if you can taste before you buy it; that’s easiest in a store that sells it in bulk. Once opened, it keeps for a month or two at room temperature, kept out of direct sunlight, and longer in the fridge (be aware that olive oil will get more viscous when it’s chilled; it doesn’t affect the flavor but it’ll take longer to pour it out of the bottle).
You need a good-quality, neutral-tasting oil for frying and for those times you don’t want the flavor of olive oil to dominate. For more on the options, see pages 626 to 627.
I keep several kinds on hand: white and rice vinegars for neutral acidity; sherry vinegar for the best flavor, generally; balsamic vinegar for something on the sweeter side. White wine and red wine vinegars are useful also. For more on vinegars, see pages 632 to 633.
When I call for salt, I mean kosher salt. Pepper refers to black pepper. Freshly ground is best at the table, but high-quality preground pepper can save time and is indistinguishable in most cooking applications.
The best Italian-style pasta is made in Italy, and the best rice and other Asian-style noodles are usually also imported. Keep a couple of packages of your favorites on hand.
I almost always cook beans from dried but I understand the need and preference for the convenience of canned. Either way, keep a couple of packages of dried or cans of your favorite beans on hand.
Essential for tomato sauce as well as a base for soups, stews, and other dishes. I always have a couple of cans of peeled whole and diced tomatoes on hand.
Start with those you like best and use most often. A generic starter kit might include dried thyme and tarragon, paprika (smoked and regular), a variety of ground chiles (cayenne, red chile flakes, mild ground chiles), ground cinnamon, cumin and fennel seeds . . . it’s hard to know when to stop, but this is your call. I like to grind and mix my own spice blends (see pages 648 to 652) and keep whole spices for those on hand, as do most experienced cooks. Ground spices and dried herbs lose their potency eventually; it’s best to replace them annually. Whole spices keep better, but it’s still best to buy only what you’re going to use within a few months to a year. Keep them a dark, cool place in airtight containers. For more on herbs and spices, see the lexicons on pages 635 to 637 and 642 to 647.
Essential to so many dishes; store away from sunlight to prevent sprouting.
A must. Make sure it contains soy and wheat (unless you’re gluten-free, then seek out a quality wheat-free brand) as primary ingredients and doesn’t include caramel color or artificial flavorings. Keeps indefinitely.
I always have several varieties of rice on hand, as well as other grains (for more on rice and other grains, see the lexicon on pages 400 to 403). Store away from sunlight at room temperature or in the fridge or freezer, in airtight containers (to keep bugs out).
Especially if you like to bake. Store flour and cornmeal away from sunlight at room temperature in airtight containers (to keep bugs out). For more on the different types of flours, see pages 572 to 577.
Sugar (both white and brown), maple syrup (though it will impart its flavor if added in large enough quantity), and honey (if you’re not a vegan) are all options; see pages 682 to 685 for other alternatives. Keep sugar in an airtight container or bag to avoid ants and to keep brown sugar from drying out. Once opened, maple syrup should be refrigerated. Honey can be stored at room temperature; if it crystallizes, that’s fine — gently warm it and the crystals will melt.
Indispensable for Indian and Southeast Asian cooking and as an alternative to dairy. You can make your own (see page 304), but canned is fine. When selecting a can, shake it; if you don’t hear sloshing, put it back. This means the milk has separated and the coconut cream has hardened; once that happens, it’s impossible to get the cream to re-emulsify. Always shake a can of coconut milk before opening it unless the recipe instructs you to just use the coconut cream on top. Transfer any leftover to a jar and refrigerate after opening; it will keep for a week or a little longer. You can also freeze it for several months.
For the Fridge or Freezer
Obviously optional if you are a vegan or prefer to use oil. If using, buy unsalted. Keeps forever frozen, for weeks refrigerated.
My recipes assume large eggs. Store them in their container; otherwise their shells with absorb odors from other items in the fridge. If you can buy local, do so; the freshest eggs have the best flavor and color.
For dairy, use whatever level of fat you prefer, except for the baking recipes, some of which were tested with, and call for, whole milk. For nondairy options to use for cooking, buy whichever type you prefer and buy it plain, with no added flavorings.
Different types of tofu keep for different lengths of time. You can always freeze it; this changes the texture, but in some ways for the better. See pages 482 to 483 for more on the different kinds and their uses.
Great to have on hand to add to most any kind of dish; it keeps for weeks in the fridge and months in the freezer. For more on tempeh, plus recipes, see pages 512 to 518.
An easy way to add protein and deep umami flavor to most any cooked dish; just stir in a tablespoon of it, or to taste. Keeps almost indefinitely in an airtight container. For more on the different types, see page 652.
Homemade is best (see recipes on pages 97 to 100); canned and packaged are not much better than water. Refrigerate stock for up to 5 days or freeze up to 3 months.
Add crunch and flavor to salads, noodle dishes, and baked goods. Because their oils can go rancid, they’re best stored in the refrigerator, where they’ll keep for several months, or the freezer, where they’ll keep indefinitely. See pages 297 to 305 for information and recipes.
You can grind your own; see page 299. If the oil separates, stir it back in before using. Nut butters and tahini will keep for months in the fridge.
Invaluable for adding intense toasty sesame flavor. Fabulous in stir-fries and other dishes. Will keep indefinitely in the fridge. It sometimes gets sludgy from the cold; just take it out about 15 minutes before you need it.
An easy way to add flavor and heat. Keep your favorite(s) on hand. In addition to Louisiana-style hot sauce, consider sriracha, Korean gochujang, Vietnamese garlic-chili sauce, and Indonesian sambal oelek.
Ketchup, Dijon and other mustards, mayonnaise, capers, cornichons, and olives are all good to have on hand.
Their zests and juices really lift the flavor of a sauce or dish; keep a couple of each on hand at all times. Don’t bother with bottled juice.
Not quite essential, but its distinctive flavor and heat are a wonderful addition to all sorts of dishes, savory and sweet.