Most overseas visitors to Cape Town travel there by air, either on a direct flight or via Johannesburg, which is connected to Cape Town by frequent domestic flights. The few direct services from North America stop to refuel in West Africa, but there are nonstop flights from the UK, which allow you to travel from London in twelve hours. It can be cheaper, however, to fly via mainland Europe or the Middle East.
Airfares always depend on the season, with the highest prices and greatest demand in July, August, September, December and early January. Prices drop during April (except for around Easter), May and November, while the rest of the year is “shoulder season”.
At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. All Rough Guides’ flights are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of environmental charities.
From London there are nonstop flights to Cape Town with British Airways (ba.com), and more flights via Johannesburg (often a cheaper option). Flying time from the UK to Cape Town is around twelve hours and average high-season scheduled direct fares from London start around £1000. You can make major savings by flying via mainland Europe, the Middle East or Asia, and enduring at least one change of plane, often in Johannesburg.
There are no direct flights from Ireland, but a number of European and Middle Eastern carriers fly to Cape Town via their hub airports.
There are no nonstop flights from the US, but there are direct flights from New York (JFK) and Washington (IAD) to Johannesburg stopping in West Africa to refuel, operated by South African Airways (SAA). These take between fifteen and seventeen hours. Most other flights stop off in Europe, the Middle East or Asia and involve a change of plane. For flights from New York to Cape Town via Johannesburg, expect high-season return fares to start around $1200; you will save a lot if you fly via Europe, the Middle East or Asia.
From Canada, you’ll have to change planes in the US, Europe or Asia on hauls that can last over thirty hours. High-season return fares from Toronto to Cape Town are similarly priced to those from the US east coast.
There are nonstop flights from Sydney (which take 14hr) and Perth (11hr) to Johannesburg, with onward connections to Cape Town; New Zealanders also tend to fly via Sydney. South African Airways (SAA) and Qantas (qantas.com) are two of the airlines serving South Africa from Australia. Several Asian, Middle Eastern and European airlines fly to Cape Town via their hub cities, and tend to be less expensive, but their routings can often entail long stopovers.
Cape Town is not a cheap destination for travellers from Australia and New Zealand; high-season fares start around Aus$2000, low-season fares at Aus$1600, for an indirect return flight from Sydney to Cape Town with one change. A flight to Europe with a stopover in South Africa, or even a round-the-world ticket, may represent better value than a straightforward return. The most affordable return flights tend to travel via Dubai, Doha, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, with the likes of Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) and Emirates (emirates.com).
Abercrombie & Kent Australia 1300 851 800, abercrombiekent.com.au; UK 01242 547 760, abercrombiekent.co.uk; US 1800 554 7016, abercrombiekent.com. Classy operator whose packages feature Cape Town and luxury rail travel with Rovos Rail.
Africa Travel UK 020 7843 3500, africatravel.com. Experienced Africa specialists, offering flights and packages including a thirteen-day Cape Town, Garden Route and Victoria Falls itinerary.
Cox & Kings UK 020 7873 5000, coxandkings.co.uk; US 323 271 4317, coxandkingsusa.com. Stylish operator with classic luxury journeys, including an eleven-day itinerary geared towards families. Also deluxe safaris.
Exodus Travels UK 0203 553 0654, exodus.co.uk; US 1 844 227 9087, exodustravels.com. Small-group adventure tour operator with itineraries in and around Cape Town, overland trips taking in Kruger National Park and themed packages including activities such as cycling. Offices worldwide.
Expert Africa New Zealand 04 976 7585, UK 020 3405 6666, US 1 800 242 2434; expertafrica.com. Mostly self-drive safari packages, including Addo and with the option of incorporating flights from the UK.
Explore Worldwide UK 01252 883 503, explore.co.uk; US 1 800 715 1746, exploreworldwide.com. Good range of small-group tours, expeditions and safaris, staying mostly in small hotels and taking in Cape Town and beyond.
Goway Travel US 1 888 414 0246, goway.com. Wide range of packages from two days on the Blue Train to six weeks overland, including eleven days in Cape Town, the Winelands, the Garden Route and a private game reserve.
Joe Walsh Tours Ireland 01 241 0800, joewalshtours.ie. Budget fares as well as hotels, golf packages and holidays from the Western Cape to Kruger. Also has offices in the UK.
Kuoni Travel UK 0800 422 0799, kuoni.co.uk. Flexible package itineraries, including tailor-made tours, self-drive holidays and escorted small-group excursions, with a nine-night trip covering the classic sights around Cape Town. Good ideas for families too.
North South Travel UK 01245 608 291, northsouthtravel.co.uk. Discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.
Okavango Tours and Safaris UK 07721 387 738, okavango.com. Top-notch outfit with on-the-ground knowledge of sub-Saharan Africa, offering fully flexible and individual tours across the country, including the Western Cape and family-focused packages.
On the Go Tours UK 020 7371 1113, US 1866 377 6147; onthegotours.com. Group and tailor-made tours to South Africa including a two-week overland safari from Cape Town to Namibia. Offices worldwide.
Rainbow Tours UK 020 3131 2831, rainbowtours.co.uk. Knowledgeable Africa specialists whose trips include a sixteen-day Cape Town, Garden Route and Kruger holiday.
STA Travel UK 0333 321 0099, US 1800 781 4040, Australia 134 782, New Zealand 0800 474 400, South Africa 0861 781 781; statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental and more. Discounts for students and youth travellers.
Trailfinders UK 020 736 81200, Ireland 01 677 7888; trailfinders.com. A well informed and efficient agent for independent travellers, with numerous holiday packages on offer.
Tribes UK 01473 890 499, www.tribes.co.uk; US 1800 608 4651. Unusual and off-the-beaten-track sustainable safaris and cultural tours, including Cape Town itineraries.
USIT Ireland 01 602 1906, usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists offer Cape Town packages.
Wildlife Worldwide UK 01962 302 086, wildlifeworldwide.com; US 1800 972 3982. Tailor-made trips for wildlife and wilderness enthusiasts, covering the Cape and the great reserves.
Nationals of the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Argentina and Brazil don’t require a visa to enter South Africa. Most EU nationals don’t need a visa, with the exception of passport holders from countries including the following, who will need to obtain one at a South Africa diplomatic mission in their home country: Bulgaria, Croatia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Romania, Slovak Republic and Slovenia.
As long as you carry a passport that is valid for at least thirty days from the date of exit from South Africa, and has at least two empty pages, you will be granted a temporary visitor’s permit, which allows you to stay in South Africa for up to ninety days for most nationals, and thirty days for EU passport holders from Cyprus, Hungary and Poland. All visitors should have proof of a valid return ticket or another form of onward travel; immigration officers rarely ask to see it, but airlines will often check. Likewise, visitors should have a bank statement showing that they have sufficient funds to cover their stay, but officials seldom ask to see it.
Cross-border “visa runs” are not possible, but you can extend your visitor’s visa for up to ninety days, or apply to stay for longer periods for purposes such as study. Applications should be made through VFS Global (012 425 3000, vfsglobal.com/southafrica), which will ask to see paperwork including proof of sufficient funds to cover your stay.
The easiest option is to use a consultant such as the immigration division of the International English School (021 852 8859, english.za.net/immigration-services) in Somerset West, just outside Cape Town. Their services are recommended, and paying such a consultant’s fees is far preferable to bureaucratic headaches.
It is important to be aware of paperwork requirements pertaining to kids aged under 18 years, which have caused families to miss flights since they were introduced in 2015.
Children travelling into or out of South Africa will be asked to show an unabridged (full) birth certificate in addition to their passport. Unlike abridged certificates, the unabridged version shows both parents’ details.
Where only one parent is accompanying, parental or legal consent for the child to travel (eg an affidavit from the other parent or a court order) is required. There are other requirements for children travelling unaccompanied or with adults who are not their parents. The Department of Home Affairs has more details at www.dha.gov.za, while the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/south-africa/entry-requirements) is a good starting point for clear guidance and helpful links.
See the box below for information on immigration requirements for children travelling to South Africa.
Australia Corner State Circle and Rhodes Place, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600 02 6272 7300, sahc.org.au.
Canada 15 Sussex Drive, Ottawa, ON K1M 1M8 613 744 0330, southafrica-canada.ca. Consulate 110 Sheppard Ave East, Suite 600, Toronto, ON M2N 6Y8 416 944 8825.
Netherlands 40 Wassenaarseweg 2596 CJ, The Hague 070 392 4501, zuidafrika.nl.
New Zealand Level 7, State Insurance Tower, 1 Willis St, Wellington 04 815 8484, sahc.org.au/consular_new-zealand.htm.
UK South Africa House, Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 5DP 020 7451 7299, southafricahouseuk.com.
US 3051 Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20008 202 232 4400, southafrica-newyork.net/homeaffairs/index.htm. Consulates 333 E 38th St, 9th floor, New York, NY 10016 212 213 4880; 6300 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 600, Los Angeles, CA 90048 323 651 0902; 200 South Michigan Ave, 6th floor, Chicago, IL 60604 312 939 7929.
Most embassies are in Pretoria, but countries including the following also have a consulate in Cape Town.
Canada 19th Floor, South African Reserve Bank building, 60 St George’s Mall. The consulate was temporarily closed at the time of writing; check the website for updates southafrica.gc.ca.
Netherlands 100 Strand St 021 421 5660, netherlandsworldwide.nl/countries/south-africa.
UK 15th floor, Norton Rose House, 8 Riebeek St 021 405 240, www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-consulate-general-cape-town.
US 2 Reddam Ave, Westlake 021 702 7300, za.usembassy.gov.
Cape Town International Airport, the city’s international and domestic airport (CPT; www.airports.co.za), lies 22km east of the city centre. A bureau de change is open to coincide with international arrivals; there are also ATMs here and a tourist information desk. The major car rental firms also have offices here. Pre-booking a vehicle is recommended, especially during the week when there is a big demand from domestic business travellers, and over the mid-December to mid-January and Easter peak seasons.
Metered 24-hour taxis operated by Touch Down Taxis (082 569 7555), the airport’s officially authorised taxi service, rank in reasonable numbers outside both terminals and charge around R250 for the trip into the city.
The cheapest transport from the airport is the MyCiTi bus (every 30min; 5am–9.30pm; R88; 0800 65 64 63, myciti.org.za), a safe, clean and reliable option operated by the city. It goes to the Civic Centre on Hertzog Boulevard, near the central train and bus stations, and has connections further afield. More expensive but considerably more convenient are the door-to-door shuttle services which offer transport around Cape Town, including airport transfers.
Cape Town’s public transport system consists of a bus network that serves the city centre, the Northern Suburbs and the Atlantic seaboard, as well as a train line that runs through the Southern Suburbs and down the False Bay seaboard as far as Simon’s Town.
For some attractions, you’ll still need a car or else you’ll have to rely on tours, minibuses and metered taxis. For getting further afield, there are several decent intercity bus lines as well as the Baz Bus backpacker service that serves some places the intercity buses don’t reach.
The open-top, hop-on, hop-off red City Sightseeing Bus (086 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za; one-day ticket R170, children R90) is an extremely convenient, informative and, on a fine day, fun way of getting to the major sights, especially with kids. Covering everywhere from downtown to the Constantia wineries, their routes and tours include the following (for which buses leave from their office by the Two Oceans Aquarium at the Waterfront):
Blue Mini Peninsula Tour (daily May to late Sept every 35min, late Sept to early May every 25min; 9am–3.25pm) stops on Long Street, Mount Nelson Hotel, Kirstenbosch, World of Birds, Imizamo Yethu township, Mariner’s Wharf in Hout Bay, Camps Bay and Sea Point.
Red City Tour (daily May to late Sept every 20min, late Sept to early May every 15min; 8.40am–4.45pm) stops on Long Street before ascending Kloof Nek Road to the Table Mountain cable car station and crossing Kloof Nek to Camps Bay, Sea Point and Green Point.
Although Cape Town’s city centre (aka the City Bowl or CBD) is compact enough to walk around, many of the major attractions are spread along the considerable length of the peninsula and require transport to reach. Between them, the MyCiTi bus network, introduced in 2011, and Metrorail’s Southern Line down the peninsula cover Cape Town fairly comprehensively, as far south as Hout Bay on the Atlantic seaboard and Simon’s Town on False Bay.
The Golden Acre shopping complex, at the junction of Strand and Adderley streets in the heart of Cape Town, can be a confusing muddle, but this, along with the central train station opposite and the nearby Civic Centre, is where all rail and most bus transport (both intercity and from elsewhere in the city) converges, along with most minibus taxis. Everything you need for your next move is within two or three blocks of here, including the main tourist office.
The MyCiTi bus (0800 065 64 63, myciti.org.za) is a safe and comprehensive commuter system that operates daily from roughly 5am to 10pm. With stations along dedicated trunk roads, MyCiTi is part of the municipality’s initiative to improve public transport in the traffic-plagued city. Frequent buses service the city centre, City Bowl suburbs, Atlantic seaboard and northern suburbs, providing a reliable transport alternative to cars, although most middle-class Capetonians still rely on the latter. Frequencies vary between routes, but buses operate roughly every ten to twenty minutes during peak periods (6.45–8am & 4.15–5.30pm) and every twenty to thirty minutes during the off-peak period that falls between these times and over weekends. Importantly, MyCiTi is the safest public transport option in the evening and more routes are being added as the system evolves.
Cash is not accepted on buses and you’ll need a myconnect card, which you load with credit to cover fares based on distance travelled. Fares include around R10 for routes within the city centre (with a variation of a few rand between peak and off-peak periods), around R20 from the centre to Hout Bay or Table View and R88 to the airport. Cards can be bought for R30 from MyCiTi stations and various retailers, or you can buy a single-trip card at some stations (R90 at the airport).
To use the card you tap your card against validators marked “in” when you board, and again on one marked “out” when you get off.
The MyCiTi website has user-friendly and up-to-date information on fares, routes and timetables.
The term “taxi” refers, somewhat confusingly, to conventional metered cars, jam-packed minibuses and Rikkis.
You will find regulated company-owned and independent metered taxis at the taxi ranks around town, including the Waterfront, the train station and Long Street. You can also hail one off the street, but to ensure you are using a regulated taxi, you’ll need to phone to be picked up. Taxis must have the driver’s name and identification clearly on display and the meter clearly visible. Fares work out around R10 per kilometre, with minimum charges from R20, and rates go up after dark. Services are available around the clock.
Uber (uber.com/en-ZA/cities/cape-town) has become a popular and convenient option, although not without the controversy seen in other countries. Rates start around R7 per kilometre. Download the app to your smartphone.
For more taxi listings see the information in the Drinking chapter.
Minibus taxis are cheap, frequent and race up and down the main routes at tearaway speeds. They can be hailed from the street – you’ll recognize them from the whistling, hooting and booming music – or boarded at the central taxi rank, above the Cape Town train station. Once you’ve boarded, pay the assistant who sits near the driver and say where you want to get off. Fares are around R10 for trips around the centre. As well as dangerous driving, be prepared for pickpockets working the taxi ranks. Don’t take minibus taxis after dark.
The Rikkis Taxis fleet includes London-style black cabs, operating all hours and aimed principally at tourists; book through 086 174 5547 or rikkis.co.za. They offer airport shuttles, ride shares and a private door-to-door service.
In the same vein but a little cheaper, the Backpacker Bus (booking two days ahead recommended; 082 809 9185, backpackerbus.co.za) offers good-value transport between Cape Town, Stellenbosch and the airport. From Cape Town accommodation to Stellenbosch costs R300 (R550 return); R450 (R650 return) for two people, R550 (R750 return) for three and R650 (R850 return) for four. Their well-priced airport shuttle runs 24 hours a day as required to accommodate flight arrivals and departures (R220 one-way for the first person, two people R350, three people R400, four people R450).
Cape Town’s suburban train service is run by Metrorail (021 449 6478, metrorail.co.za, cttrains.co.za). The only route likely to be useful to visitors is the relatively safe and reliable if slightly run-down Southern Line, which travels from Cape Town station through the Southern Suburbs and all the way down the False Bay seaboard to Simon’s Town. Four other routes serve the Northern Suburbs, the Winelands and the Cape Flats; however, these journeys aren’t recommended, as they run through less safe areas. Even on the Southern Line, never board an empty carriage, and only travel during daylight.
The Southern Line to the False Bay seaboard must be one of the world’s greatest urban train journeys. It reaches the coast at Muizenberg and continues south to Simon’s Town, sometimes so spectacularly close to the ocean that you can feel the spray and peer into rock pools. The stretch of the line to Fish Hoek is well served, with several trains an hour. Services to Simon’s Town run roughly every twenty to sixty minutes.
There are often no signposts to the stations on the streets, so if you’re staying in the Southern Suburbs, ask for directions at your accommodation. Tickets must be bought at the station before boarding – you’ll be safer and more comfortable in the first-class MetroPlus carriages, which are reasonably priced (for example, Cape Town–Muizenberg is R13.50 one way). Week and month passes are available.
For more info on the Southern Line see details in Chapter 6.
Baz Bus (086 122 9287, www.bazbus.com) operates an extremely useful hop-on, hop-off service five days a week between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, via Mossel Bay, George, Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, Storms River and Jeffrey’s Bay, with other stops possible along the N2. The service is aimed squarely at backpackers, with buses stopping off at hostels en route. The Cape Town–Port Elizabeth fare is R2300 one way, though there are also better-value seven-, fourteen- and 21-day passes costing R2600, R4100 and R5100. Bookings can be made through the website, by email, telephone or SMS (076 427 3003).
South Africa’s three established intercity bus companies are Greyhound (083 915 9000, greyhound.co.za), Intercape (021 380 4400, intercape.co.za) and Translux (086 158 9282, translux.co.za); between them, they reach most towns in the country. Travel on these buses is generally safe, good value and comfortable; the vehicles are invariably equipped with air conditioning and toilets. Keep your valuables close on overnight journeys, when lone women should find a seat at the front near the driver.
Fares vary according to distances covered and the time of year, with peak fares corresponding approximately to school holidays. As a rough indication you can expect to pay the following Greyhound fares for single journeys from Cape Town: Paarl (1hr) from R320; Mossel Bay (7hrs) from R430; and Port Elizabeth (12hr 30min) from R595.
Greyhound, Intercape and Translux intercity buses leave from around the interlinked complex in Cape Town’s centre that includes the train station and Golden Acre shopping mall, mostly from Old Marine Drive off Adderley Street on the northeast side of the station.
Translux and Greyhound also operate the no-frills budget bus lines City to City (www.citytocity.co.za) and Citiliner (citiliner.co.za) respectively, whose schedules and prices are listed on their websites. There is also a host of less reputable small private companies with ad hoc timetables; your best bet is to enquire at the long-distance bus terminus, on the corner of Adderley Street and Old Marine Drive, the day before you travel.
Many towns along the Garden Route have bilingual street names with English and Afrikaans alternatives sometimes appearing along the same road. The Afrikaans name may bear little resemblance to the English one, although there is often some similarity, for instance if you spot a “Kerk” sign when looking for Church Street. In Cape Town you’ll also find Afrikaans direction signs; for example signs for the airport may occasionally use the Afrikaans word “Lughawe”.
We have included a list of Afrikaans terms you may encounter on signage in the “Language” section of the Guide.
Driving the Garden Route in one direction – say out from Cape Town – and flying back (or on to Johannesburg) from George or Port Elizabeth is a popular option. Expect to pay around R1000 for a budget flight from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth (1hr 15mins).
By far the biggest domestic airline is national carrier South African Airways (SAA; 086 160 6606, flysaa.com), with its associates SA Airlink and SA Express (reservations for the three are through SAA) offering flights to George and Port Elizabeth among further-flung destinations. There are a number of smaller airlines that fly between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, of which the most significant are British Airways Comair (086 043 5922, ba.com) and budget carrier FlySafair (087 135 1351, flysafair.co.za). Comair’s budget subsidiary kulula.com (086 158 5852, kulula.com) links Johannesburg with Cape Town and George; budget carrier Mango (086 100 1234, flymango.com) connects Johannesburg with Cape Town, George and Port Elizabeth; and Cemair (011 395 4473, flycemair.co.za) flies from Cape Town and Johannesburg to Plettenberg Bay in the heart of the Garden Route.
Computicket Travel (0861 915 4000, computickettravel.com) is a useful booking engine for flights, buses and car rental.
Cape Town has good roads and several fast freeways that, outside peak hours (7–9am & 4–6pm), can whisk you across town in next to no time. The obvious landmarks of Table Mountain and its neighbouring peaks make orientation straightforward in the centre, while the two seaboards help in the south, and some wonderful journeys are possible. Notable drives include along the Atlantic seaboard to Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak Drive, a narrow, winding, cliff-edge road with the Atlantic breaking hundreds of metres below; and around the Cape Point section of the Table Mountain National Park, via the False Bay seaboard.
National roads (with an “N” prefix) and provincial roads (with an “R” prefix) in the rest of the Western Cape are of a generally high standard. The only time you’re likely to encounter adverse conditions is during school holidays, particularly the Easter and December breaks, when the N1 and N2 become fairly congested, nerves fray, alcohol is copiously consumed and drivers’ behaviour deteriorates accordingly.
Petrol stations are frequent on the major routes of the country, and usually open 24 hours a day. Off the major routes, though, stations are less frequent, so fill up whenever you get the chance. Stations are rarely self-service; instead, attendants fill up your car, check oil, water and tyre pressure if you ask them to, and often clean your windscreen even if you don’t. A tip of R5–10 is normal.
You drive on the left-hand side, with speed limits ranging from 40kph in wildlife parks and reserves and 60kph in built-up areas to 100kph on open roads and 120kph on highways and major arteries. In addition to roundabouts, which follow the British rule of giving way to the right, there are four-way stops, where the rule is that the person who got there first leaves first, and you are not expected to give way to the right. Note that traffic lights are often called robots in South Africa.
Foreign driving licences are valid in South Africa, provided they are printed in English. If you don’t have such a licence, you’ll need to get an International Driving Permit before arriving (available from national motoring organizations). When driving, make sure you have your driving licence and passport on you at all times.
The main challenge you’ll face on the roads is other drivers. South Africa has the world’s seventh deadliest roads, placing it between Nigeria and Iraq on the list. Its abysmal accident statistics – resulting in 31.9 fatalities per 100,000 inhabitants, compared with 3.5 in the UK – are the result of reckless driving, drunken drivers and defective, overloaded vehicles. Keep your distance from cars in front, as domino-style pile-ups are common. Watch out also for overtaking traffic coming towards you. Overtakers often assume that you will head for the hard shoulder to avoid an accident (motorists commonly drive on the hard shoulder, but be careful as people frequently walk on it). If you do pull into the hard shoulder to let a car behind overtake, the other driver will usually thank you by flashing their hazard lights. It’s wise to do so when it’s safe, as aggressive and impatient South African drivers will soon start driving dangerously close to your back bumper to encourage you to give way. If oncoming cars flash their headlights at you, it probably means that there is a speed trap up ahead, or a hazard such as baboons in the road.
Driving in and around Cape Town presents a few peculiarities all of its own. Hurried minibus taxis, fiercely competing with rival cooperatives, will push in front of you without compunction and will routinely run through amber lights as they change to red – as will many Capetonians. Locals are often pushy behind the wheel, so drive defensively but stand your ground and remain calm in the face of uncourteous behaviour.
Take care approaching a freeway in Cape Town: the slip roads sometimes feed directly into the fast lane, and Capetonians routinely exceed the 100kph freeway and 120kph highway speed limits. Furthermore, there’s often little warning of branches off to the suburbs, only the final destination of the freeway being signed. Your best bet is to plan your journey, and make sure you know exactly where you’re going.
Given Cape Town’s scant public transport and car-centric culture, renting a vehicle is the most convenient way of exploring the Cape Peninsula, and needn’t break the bank. There are dozens of competing car rental companies to choose from (see below). To get the best deal, either pick up a brochure at the Cape Town Tourism office or, a cheaper option, book beforehand with an international company, which might offer deals tied in with your airline or credit card, or a local player. Many backpacker hostels have cheaper deals with agencies too.
For motorbike rental, Cape Town Scooter Hire (9am–4pm; R250/day; 021 418 6885, capetownscooter.co.za), opposite the aquarium at the Waterfront, offers 125cc and 150cc scooters. For something more powerful, Cape Bike Travel, 125 Buitengracht (084 606 4449, capebiketravel.com), rents out BMWs and Harley-Davidsons along with protective gear (from R1300 for one day for a Harley, BMWs from R1600 for one day; BMW 1200GS R1800/day for seven days with unlimited mileage). Prices include comprehensive insurance and roadside assistance.
For cyclists, one of the most popular – and hair-raising – road routes is the serpentine Chapman’s Peak Drive, which offers stupendous views of Hout Bay and the Atlantic. There are also dedicated mountain-biking routes in the peninsula’s nature reserves; visit mtbroutes.co.za for details. Mountain bikes are available from Downhill Adventures, Shop 1, Overbeek Building, corner of Kloof and Orange streets (021 422 0388, downhilladventures.co.za), from R400 a day. They also offer organized cycle outings that include trips to Cape Point, the Winelands and a Table Mountain descent.
The big international names cover South Africa and local agencies such as Around About Cars offer good deals. They have offices at the airport and in the city.
Alamo alamo.com
Argus Car Hire arguscarhire.com
Around About Cars aroundaboutcars.com
Auto Europe autoeurope.com
Avis avis.co.za
Budget budget.co.za
Dollar dollar.com
Drive Africa driveafrica.co.za
Europcar europcar.co.za
First firstcarrental.co.za
Hertz hertz.co.za
Holiday Autos holidayautos.co.uk
SIXT sixt.global
Tempest tempestcarhire.co.za
Thrifty thrifty.co.za
Vineyard Car Hire vineyardcarhire.co.za
Britz 4x4 Rentals britz.co.za
Cheap Motorhome Rental cheapmotorhomes.co.za
Drive South Africa drivesouthafrica.co.za
Kea Travel kea.co.za
Maui maui.co.za
Cape Town is awash with tour packages, from standard, through-the-window outings that take you from one sight to the other, to really excellent specialist packages. For some depth, opt for one of the cultural tours, which cover all aspects of Cape Town life, or feel the exhilaration of the peninsula’s environment on foot or from a bike saddle. Operators generally pick you up from your accommodation and drop you back at the end of the day.
A few excellent companies offer niche cultural tours; the most popular of these are township tours, the safest way to see the African and coloured areas that were created under apartheid.
Andulela 021 790 2592, andulela.com. Small selection of interactive adventures including a walking township tour, cookery- and gospel music-themed township tours and a Cape Malay cooking “safari” in the Bo-Kaap.
Bonani Our Pride 021 531 4291, bonanitours.co.za. Township tours to meet local people and understand the areas’ tumultuous past and future aspirations. Also township evening tours, gospel tours to Xhosa churches on a Sunday morning, and Xhosa folklore tours.
Coffeebeans Routes 021 813 9829, coffeebeansroutes.com. Under the creative direction of Iain Harris, they are pioneers in cultural tourism in the townships, and the people to go to for hands-on, eye-opening experiences including the Jazz Safari, Township Futures tour and journeys themed around beer, fashion, art and more.
If you want a trip that covers more distance – the major peninsula sights and beyond – there are myriad operators. The most popular day-trips take in the Winelands or Cape Point. Knowledgeable independent guides often work with guesthouses and boutique hotels so ask your receptionist for suggestions.
Cape Convoy 076 146 8577, capeconvoy.com. Tours with popular, passionate and fun Brit Rob Salmon to Cape Point (R999 including entrance fees), the Winelands, Cape Point and shark-cage diving.
Day Trippers 021 511 4766, daytrippers.co.za. An excellent company if you want an active peninsula and Cape Point day tour that includes cycling and hiking (R850 including entrance fees and picnic lunch). They also go further afield to hike and cycle in the Winelands, Cederberg and Eastern Cape.
Discovery Tours 078 161 7818, discoverytours.co.za. Specializing in private tours to the peninsula, the Winelands (two people R1400) and the West Coast.
One of the best ways to orient yourself at the start of a visit is on a walking tour through central Cape Town. Tours with Cape Town on Foot and Footsteps to Freedom depart mid-morning at least three days a week, and last roughly three hours.
Cape Town Free Walking Tours 076 636 9007, nielsentours.co.za/capetown; free. Daily 90min tours, covering apartheid and liberation, more general history, the Bo-Kaap or the Waterfront. All four itineraries cost absolutely nada, though you might like to tip the guide; private tours can be arranged.
Cape Town on Foot 086 547 6833, wanderlust.co.za; R250. Run by writer Ursula Stevens, these historical tours explore the city centre as well as the Bo-Kaap, and can be taken in English or German.
City Sightseeing 086 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za; free. The bus-tour operator offers daily 90min historical, Bo-Kaap, District Six and Waterfront walks. Tours are free but tips are appreciated.
Footsteps to Freedom 083 452 1112, footstepstofreedom.co.za; one–four guests R1760. Historical and Mandela-themed tours taking in sights, buildings and local stories in the Company’s Garden area. Book ahead.
You can put aside most of the health fears that may be justified in some parts of Africa; run-down hospitals and bizarre tropical diseases aren’t typical of Cape Town and the Garden Route, and malaria isn’t an issue here at all. All tourist areas enjoy generally high standards of hygiene and safe drinking water. The only hazard you’re likely to encounter, and the one the majority of visitors are most blasé about, is the sun.
Public hospitals are often well equipped and staffed, but are under huge pressure, undermining their attempts to maintain standards. Expect long waits and frequently indifferent treatment. Private hospitals or clinics are a much better option for travellers and are well up to British and North American standards. You’ll get to see a doctor quickly and costs are not excessive, unless you require an operation, in which case health insurance is a must.
Dental care in South Africa is also well up to British and North American standards, and is generally less expensive. You’ll find dentists in Cape Town and most smaller towns.
No specific inoculations are compulsory if you arrive in South Africa from the West, although the CDC suggests several immunisations as routine for adults and children. In addition, it recommends inoculations against typhoid and hepatitis A, both of which can be caught from contaminated food or water – though this is extremely unlikely in the region covered by this guide. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is necessary if you’ve come from a country or region where the disease is endemic, such as Kenya, Tanzania or tropical South America.
If you need an armful of jabs, start organizing them six weeks before departure; some clinics will not administer inoculations less than a fortnight before departure. If you’re going to another African country first and need the yellow fever jab, note that a yellow fever certificate only becomes valid ten days after you’ve had the shot.
Canadian Society for International Health 613 241 5785, csih.org. Extensive list of travel health centres.
CDC 800 232 4636, cdc.gov/travel. Official US government travel health site.
Hospital for Tropical Diseases Travel Clinic www.thehtd.org. Health advice for travellers, with a link to the British government’s online travel health advice, and a shop selling goods such as first-aid kits, mosquito nets and suncream.
International Society for Travel Medicine US 1 404 373 8282, istm.org. Has a global directory of travel health clinics.
MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad) masta-travel-health.com. The UK’s largest network of private travel clinics.
The Travel Doctor traveldoctor.co.nz. Travel clinics in New Zealand and an online shop.
Travel Doctor 0861 300 911, traveldoctor.co.za. Travel clinics in Cape Town, Stellenbosch, George and beyond.
Travel Doctor traveldoctor.com.au. Travel clinics in Australia.
Tropical Medical Bureau 086 0728 999, tmb.ie. Offers extensive advice for travellers, with a number of clinics in Ireland.
Groote Schuur Hospital Main Rd, Observatory 021 404 9111. This large state hospital is just off the N2 and M3.
New Somerset Hospital Cnr Beach Road and Lower Portwood Road, Green Point 021 402 6911. A state hospital with emergency and outpatient departments, although it’s generally overcrowded, understaffed and under-equipped.
The two largest private hospital groups are Netcare (emergency response 082 911, www.netcare.co.za) and Medi-Clinic (emergency response operated by ER24 084 124, mediclinic.co.za) chains, with hospitals all over the Cape Peninsula; in addition to the hospitals listed here, which are open 24 hours for emergencies, Netcare runs over two dozen Medicross Medical Centres (medicross.co.za) across the Western Cape, which are not open 24 hours, but do operate extended hours.
Cape Town Medi-Clinic 21 Hof St, Oranjezicht 021 464 5500; emergency 021 464 5555. Close to the city centre in the City Bowl.
Constantiaberg Medi-Clinic Burnham Road, Plumstead 021 799 2911; emergency 021 799 2196. In the southern suburbs, this is the closest private hospital to the False Bay seaboard.
Netcare Christiaan Barnard Memorial Hospital Cnr D.F. Malan and Rua Bartholomeu Dias Plain 021 441 0000. The most central of the Netcare private hospitals is convenient for the city centre, the V&A Waterfront, De Waterkant and the Atlantic seaboard.
UCT Private Academic Hospital Anzio Road, Observatory 021 442 1800. Netcare hospital adjacent to Groote Schuur Hospital in the Southern Suburbs.
Stomach upsets from food are rare. Salad and ice – the danger items in many other developing countries – are both perfectly safe. As with anywhere, though, don’t keep food for too long, and be sure to wash fruit and vegetables as thoroughly as possible. Tap water is generally fine to drink, but bacteria levels rise as dam levels drop during the increasingly common droughts, when you may prefer to stick to bottled water.
If you do get a stomach bug, the best cure is lots of water and rest. Most pharmacies should have non-prescription anti-diarrhoea remedies and rehydration salts.
Avoid jumping for antibiotics at the first sign of illness. Instead keep them as a last resort – they don’t work on viruses and they annihilate your gut flora (most of which you want to keep), making you more susceptible next time round. Taking probiotics helps to alleviate the latter side effect. Most tummy upsets will resolve themselves if you adopt a sensible fat-free diet for a couple of days, but if they do persist without improvement (or are accompanied by other unusual symptoms), see a doctor as soon as possible.
The sun is likely to be the worst hazard you’ll encounter in South Africa, particularly, but not exclusively, if you’re fair-skinned.
Short-term effects of overexposure to the sun include burning, nausea and headaches. This usually comes from overeager tanning, which can leave you looking like a lobster. The fairer your skin, the slower you should take tanning. Start with short periods of exposure and high-protection sunscreen (ideally SPF 30), gradually increasing your time in the sun and decreasing the factor of the sunscreen, if suitable. Many people with fair skin, especially those who freckle easily, should take extra care, starting with a very high factor screen (SPF 25–30) and continue using at least SPF 15 for the rest of their stay.
Extreme cases of overexposure to the sun, accompanied by dehydration, overexertion and intoxication, can lead to heat exhaustion or heatstroke.
Overexposure can also cause sunburn to the surface of the eye, inflammation of the cornea and can result in serious short- and long-term damage. Good sunglasses can reduce ultraviolet (UV) light exposure to the eye by fifty percent. A broad-brimmed hat is also recommended.
Protective measures are especially necessary for children, who should be kept well covered at the seaside. Don’t be lulled into complacency on cloudy days, when UV levels can still be high. UV-protective clothing is available locally; if you don’t have this gear, make sure children wear T-shirts at the beach, and use sunscreen of at least SPF 30 liberally and often.
Bites and stings in South Africa are comparatively rare. Snakes are present, but hardly ever seen as they move out of the way quickly. The aggressive puff and berg adders are the most dangerous, because they often lie in paths and don’t move when humans approach. The best advice if you get bitten is to note what the snake looked like and get yourself to a clinic or hospital. Most bites are not fatal and the worst thing you can do is to panic: desperate measures with razor blades and tourniquets risk doing more harm than good. It’s more helpful to immobilise the bitten limb with a splint and apply a bandage over the bite.
Tick-bite fever (rickettsia) is occasionally contracted from walking in the bush, where the greatest prevalence of ticks is found in long wet grass, especially during summer. The offending ticks can be minute and you may not spot them. Symptoms appear a week later – swollen glands and severe aching of the joints, backache and fever. The disease will run its course in three or four days, but it is worth visiting the doctor for antibiotics. Ticks you may find on yourself are not dangerous, just repulsive at first. It’s extremely important to pull out the head as well as the body (it’s not painful). A good way of removing small ones is to press down with tweezers, grab the head and gently pull upwards.
Scorpion stings and spider bites are painful but rarely fatal, contrary to popular belief. Scorpions and spiders abound, but they’re hardly ever seen unless you turn over logs and stones. If you’re collecting wood for a campfire, knock or shake it before picking it up. Another simple precaution when camping is to shake out your shoes and clothes in the morning before you get dressed. Seek medical attention for scorpion stings if your condition deteriorates.
Rabies is present throughout southern Africa with dogs posing the greatest risk, although the disease can be carried by other animals. If you are bitten, you should go immediately to a clinic or hospital. Rabies can be treated effectively with a course of injections (as long as these are administered within the time limits). If you’ll be spending time in remote areas without medical facilities close at hand, you can get pre-trip jabs, which will buy you more time to reach the clinic or hospital if you are bitten.
HIV/AIDS and venereal diseases are widespread in southern Africa among both men and women, and the danger of catching the virus through sexual contact is very real. Avoid one-night stands with locals and follow the usual precautions regarding safe sex; international brand condoms are widely available from pharmacies and supermarkets. There’s little risk from treatment in private medical facilities, but if you’re travelling overland and you want to play it safe, take your own needle and transfusion kit.
With two daily English-language newspapers, plus a few magazines devoted mainly to entertainment and tourism, Cape Town’s media are unlikely to blow anyone away. Radio and TV are dominated by South Africa’s national broadcasters, with a few local radio offerings that include a talk station, a pioneering black community station and several others that play sounds from classical to pop.
Cape Town has two fairly uninspiring English newspapers, owned by the same company: the Cape Times (iol.co.za/capetimes) broadsheet comes out on weekday mornings, while the tabloid-style Cape Argus (iol.co.za/capeargus) has daily editions. Both are dominated by local news, with a smattering of national and international coverage. In addition there’s the national Business Day (businesslive.co.za), which is the best daily source of hard countrywide and international news.
Unquestionably the country’s intellectual heavyweight (“heavy” being the operative word) is the Mail & Guardian (mg.co.za), which comes out on Friday; it benefits from its association with the London Guardian (from which it draws much of its international coverage). South Africa’s Sunday Times (timeslive.co.za) can claim the biggest circulation in the country – over three hundred thousand copies – thanks to its well-calculated mix of solid investigative reporting, gossip and material from the British press and foreign tabloids. The Sowetan (sowetanlive.co.za), targeted at a mainly black Johannesburg audience, is widely available across the country.
However, the liveliest of all South African news publications is the boundary-breaking, free online Daily Maverick (dailymaverick.co.za), which is brimfull of news and analysis with a stable of some of South Africa’s most challenging and provocative columnists.
For events listings in Cape Town, check out newspaper supplements as well as websites including Cape Town Magazine (capetownmagazine.com) or What’s On in Cape Town (whatsonincapetown.com).
Both local papers and international publications such as Time, Newsweek, The Economist and the weekly overseas editions of the British Daily Mail, the Telegraph and the Express are available from corner stores, newsagents and book chains.
The South Africa Broadcasting Corporation’s three main TV channels churn out a mixed bag of domestic dramas, game shows, sport, soaps and documentaries, filled out with lashings of familiar imports. SABC 1, 2 and 3 (sabc.co.za) share the unenviable task of trying to deliver an integrated service, while having to split their time between the eleven official languages. English is the best represented, with SABC 3 broadcasting almost exclusively in English, while SABC 2 and SABC 1 cover the remaining languages, with a fair amount of English creeping in even here. In the Afrikaans-dominated Western Cape, you will also come across much programming in that language.
A selection of movies, news, American programming and specialist channels are available to subscribers to the M-Net (m-net.dstv.com) satellite service, which is piped into many hotels. South Africa’s first free-to-air independent commercial channel e.tv launched in 1998 with the promise of providing a showcase for local productions, although its output has consisted equally of imports.
There is no cable TV in South Africa, but DSTV (dstv.co.za) offers a satellite television subscription service with a selection of sports, movies, news (including BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera) and specialist channels, some of which are available in hotels. Sports fans should surf to SuperSport (supersport.com) and everyone should catch an episode of KykNet’s “Boer Soek ‘n Vrou” (Farmer Seeks a Wife), an Afrikaans dating reality show for Boers from remote farms.
Given South Africa’s low literacy rate and widespread poverty, it’s no surprise that radio is a highly popular medium. The SABC operates a national radio station for each of the eleven official language groups, including the interesting English-language national service, SAfm (104–107FM, safm.co.za). Heavily laden with phone-in shows interlaced with news bulletins, SAfm broadcasts current affairs programmes on weekdays from 6am to 9am (“AM Live”), midday to 1pm (“Midday Live”) and 4pm to 6pm (“PM Live”).
Cape Town stations include Cape Talk (567AM, capetalk.co.za), which puts out wall-to-wall chatter consisting of news, reviews, discussions and phone-ins of varying interest, as well as wall-to-wall musical golden oldies during the daytime at weekends; and Bush Radio (89.5FM, bushradio.co.za), one of South Africa’s first community stations, which actively involves members of Cape Town’s black community, who were denied a voice under apartheid. Apart from hosting debates about significant issues and broadcasting informative social documentaries, Bush Radio also pumps out great local music. A number of other local stations are devoted to 24-hour music, the most successful being the entertaining Heart Radio (104.9FM, 1049.fm), which targets high-income black and coloured listeners in the Mother City with its mix of jazz fusion, funk, soul, r’n’b and often-engaging chat. Somewhat staid by comparison is Fine Music Radio (101.3FM, fmr.co.za), which politely delivers classical music and a smattering of respectable jazz.
Many of the Western Cape’s events take place outdoors in summer, and make full use of the city’s wonderful setting. They include the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival, a unique event rooted in the city’s coloured community, while the Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts, on Sunday evenings from November to April, are a must. Winter tends to be quiet, but it does herald the arrival of calving whales, and in their wake the Hermanus Whale Festival, which packs out this Southern Cape town at the end of September. Winter is also trail-running season – for more information check trailrunning.co.za.
Tickets for many of the events listed below are available from Computicket (0861 915 8000, computicket.co.za).
Cape Town Minstrel Carnival Jan 2. The city’s longest-running and most raucous annual party, the carnival brings thousands of spectators to watch the parade through the city centre. It culminates on January 2 for the Tweede Nuwe Jaar or “Second New Year” celebrations – an extension of New Year’s Day unique to the Western Cape. Central to the festivities are the brightly decked-out coloured minstrel troupes that vie in singing and dancing contests. Arrive early to get a spot with a good view.
Shakespeare in the Park Late Jan to late Feb; maynardville.co.za. A usually imaginative production of one of the Bard’s plays is staged each year in the beautiful setting of the Maynardville Open-Air Theatre in Maynardville Park, Wynberg.
Cape Town Pride Pageant capetownpride.org. Series of gay-themed events over a week, kicking off with a pageant at which Mr and Miss Cape Town are crowned, and taking in a bunch of parties and a street parade.
Cape Town Cycle Tour First half of the month; capetowncycletour.org.za. The world’s largest, and arguably most spectacular, individually timed bike race: some 40,000 participants on the 109km course – much of it along the ocean’s edge – draw many thousands of spectators along the route. You can enter the Cape Argus (most locals still use its old name) online, and booking early is recommended, although sadly the event is often cancelled due to strong winds.
Cape Town Carnival Middle of the month; capetowncarnival.com. A Rio-style street extravaganza that kicked off in 2010, the carnival is centred on Green Point’s Fan Walk with floats, parades and general euphoria intended to celebrate Cape Town’s cultural diversity and richness. Festivities start at 3pm, and the parade takes place at 7pm.
Cape Town International Jazz Festival Last weekend of the month; capetownjazzfest.com. Initiated in 2000 as the Cape Town counterpart of the world-famous North Sea Jazz Festival (Rotterdam), Africa’s largest jazz festival has come of age and acquired a local identity. Notable past performers have included Courtney Pine, Herbie Hancock, and African greats such as Jimmy Dludlu, Moses Molelekwa, Youssou N’Dour, Miriam Makeba and Hugh Masekela.
Klein Karoo Nasionale Kunstefees First week of the month; kknk.co.za. South Africa’s largest Afrikaans arts and culture festival packs out the Karoo dorp of Oudtshoorn with festival goers, turning the otherwise dozy town into one big jumping, jiving party. If you don’t understand Afrikaans, you’ll find enough dance, music and other performance to keep you busy.
Fashion Week Cape Town First half of the month; africanfashioninternational.com. Multiple catwalk shows over two days are aimed at showcasing new collections from leading South African designers, including the likes of Craig Port and Stefania Morland.
Two Oceans Marathon Easter Saturday; twooceansmarathon.org.za. Another of the Cape’s big sports events, this is in fact an ultra-marathon (56km), with huge crowds lining the route to cheer on the participants. A less scenic half-marathon is held at the same time.
Pink Loerie Mardi Gras & Arts Festival End of the month; pinkloerie.co.za. Gay pride celebration of parties, contests, cabaret, drag shows and performance over a long weekend in Knysna, South Africa’s oyster capital.
Franschhoek Literary Festival Middle of the month; flf.co.za. Three-day celebration of books, writers and wine in the Winelands food capital, Franschhoek, featuring leading local and international writers, editors and cartoonists.
Good Food & Wine Show Start of the month; goodfoodandwineshow.co.za. Celebrity chefs from around the world are just one of the compelling attractions that make this Cape Town’s foodie event of the year. There are also hands-on workshops, kids’ events, delicious nibbles and wine as well as kitchen implements and books for sale.
Encounters South African International Documentary Festival Middle of the month; encounters.co.za. Fortnight-long showcase of documentary film-making from South Africa and the world.
Franschhoek Bastille Festival Middle of the month; franschhoekbastille.co.za. Celebrating centuries-old French Huguenot heritage in a splash of red, white and blue, this festival is centred around a marquee where you can sample wine and food from Franschhoek’s acclaimed chefs and wine estates, while listening to live music and watching the barrel-rolling competition.
Knysna Oyster Festival First half of the month; oysterfestival.co.za. Ten days of carousing and oyster eating on the Garden Route, kicked off with the Knysna Cycle Tour and closed with the Knysna Forest Marathon.
Jive Cape Town Funny Festival Beginning of the month; baxter.co.za. Month-long comedy festival at the Baxter Theatre, beginning in mid-July and attracting both local and international names.
Hermanus Whale Festival End of the month; whalefestival.co.za. To coincide with peak whale-watching season, the Southern Cape town of Hermanus stages a weekend festival of arts and the environment. Attractions include marine displays, children’s areas, a treasure hunt and live music.
Rocking the Daisies Beginning of the month; rockingthedaisies.com. South Africa’s premier rock and pop festival, featuring local and international acts as well as much theatricality and debauchery. The festival is held on Cloof Wine Estate near Darling. Most people make a long weekend of it, camping for a few nights.
Cape Town International Kite Festival End of the month; capementalhealth.co.za/kite. This high-flying extravaganza attracts over 15,000 visitors each year. Bring your own kite, watch flying displays, join a kite-making workshop or buy one. All proceeds go towards Cape Mental Health, providing services in resource-poor communities.
Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts Every Sun evening from end of the month to early April; 021 799 8783, sanbi.org. Among the musical highlights of the Cape Town calendar are the popular concerts held on the magnificent lawns of the botanical gardens at the foot of Table Mountain. Performances begin at 5.30pm and cover a range of genres, from local jazz to classical music. American rockers the Pixies played their first African gig here in 2017. Come early to find a parking place and picnic spot with a good view of the stage – and bring some Cape fizz. Tickets available online or at the gate.
Franschhoek Cap Classique and Champagne Festival Beginning of the month; www.franschhoekmcc.co.za. Popular two-day bacchanalia of bubbly sampling – a vast selection of local and French sparkling wine is on hand – and gourmandizing in the Cape Winelands.
Mother City Queer Project Party Mid-month; mcqp.co.za. A hugely popular party attracting thousands of revellers, gay and otherwise, to a vast venue. Outlandish get-ups, multiple dancefloors and a mood of sustained delirium make this event a real draw.
Christmas Carols at Kirstenbosch Thurs–Sun before Christmas; 021 799 8783, sanbi.org. The botanical gardens’ annual carol singing and nativity tableau is a Cape Town institution, drawing crowds of families with their picnic baskets. The gates open at 6pm and the singing kicks off at 7.45pm.
Spier Summer Festival Dec–March; spier.co.za. A summer of cultural happenings at Spier wine estate, near Stellenbosch, which are increasingly taking on an African flavour. Featuring art installations, dance and the lantern-lit performance of the Festival of White Lights.
The region covered by this guide is bookended by two major national parks: at the western extreme is the Table Mountain National Park, a patchwork of wilderness that covers the full extent of the Cape Peninsula; and at the eastern end is Addo Elephant National Park, which, apart from hundreds of pachyderms, is home to lions, buffalos, leopards and rhinos – the only such major game reserve in the southern half of the country.
Between the two lie a series of provincial reserves, national parks and private operations, many of which are worth adding to a journey across the Southern Cape. In addition to the aforementioned, among the top wilderness areas in the country are De Hoop Nature Reserve, with its massive dunes and its claim to be one of the world’s best places for land-based whale-watching; and the Garden Route National Park, especially the Tsitsikamma section, which draws many visitors to its ancient forests, rugged sea cliffs and dramatic Storms River Mouth.
All the national parks covered in this guide fall under the aegis of South African National Parks (SANParks, 012 428 9111, sanparks.org). A few reserves mentioned, including De Hoop and Goukamma, are run by CapeNature (021 483 0190, capenature.co.za).
PARK |
PRINCIPAL FOCUS |
DESCRIPTION & HIGHLIGHTS |
Endangered species |
The only Big Five national park in the southern half of the country, known for its six-hundred-strong elephant herd. |
|
Marine and coastal ecology |
Rugged southernmost tip of Africa with rich plant biodiversity and significant archeological sites. |
|
Marine mammals and coastal fynbos |
A combination of whales, massive dunes, fynbos and spectacular coastline. |
|
Marine, coastal, forestry and endangered species |
Focused on three sections: • Wilderness and its lakes, rivers, lagoons, forest, fynbos, beaches and sea. • Knysna, a marine area that covers the lagoon and its dramatic headlands. The lagoon area protects the endangered Knysna sea horse. • Tsitsikamma, featuring cliffs, tidal pools, deep gorges and evergreen forests; offers snorkelling, scuba diving and forest trails. |
|
Marine and coastal ecology |
Comprises a river and estuary with some of the highest vegetated dunes in South Africa. |
|
Rocky headland ecology |
The promontory is a fine example of the interaction of plant and animal life on southern coastal headlands and a good place to spot seals. Good hiking trails, too. |
|
The natural areas of the Cape Peninsula |
Famed for the extraordinary diversity of flora and fauna living in the wild areas within and around Cape Town. The area spans Table Mountain, the Boulders Beach penguin colony and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. |
National parks charge a daily conservation fee, which is usually paid upfront when you enter. At most of the national parks covered by this guide, this entry fee comes to between R100 and R250 per day for foreign visitors (half-price for children), though citizens of the Southern African Development Community (SADC includes Angola, Botswana, DRC, Lesotho, Malawi, Mauritius, Mozambique, Namibia, Swaziland, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe) pay half the foreigner’s rate. South African residents pay a quarter of the foreigner’s rate.
In the case of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, part of the Table Mountain National Park, there is a daily conservation fee of R135 (children R70), which applies to all visitors. For Addo Elephant National Park it’s R248 (children R124). Entry into CapeNature reserves generally costs around R40 (children R20) a day per person, irrespective of nationality.
Most national parks and some CapeNature reserves have accommodation, which generally has a pleasantly rustic atmosphere in keeping with the wilderness surrounds. Options include De Hoop Nature Reserve’s luxurious De Hoop Collection cottages (dehoopcollection.com) and comfortable, fully equipped en-suite cottages and chalets in the Garden Route and Addo Elephant national parks (respectively starting at R725 for a night in the Garden Route for a couple and R870 a night for a couple in Addo). Some parks and reserves have family units sleeping several people, and most offer excellent camping facilities.
You can book accommodation in advance (to stay in high season, do so several months beforehand) through the SANParks or CapeNature website. Note that if you try booking for South African National Parks over the phone you could be in for a long wait; contacting them online is recommended.
Despite horror stories of sky-high crime rates, most people visit South Africa without incident; be careful, but don’t be paranoid. This is not to underestimate the issue – overcoming the ongoing crime epidemic is one of the country’s most serious challenges. But some perspective is in order: crime is disproportionately concentrated in the townships rather than areas frequented by most visitors. Indeed, the greatest danger facing most visitors is navigating South Africa’s roads, which claim well over ten thousand lives a year.
Protecting property and “security” are major national obsessions, and often a topic of conversation at dinner parties. A substantial percentage of middle-class homes subscribe to the services of armed private security firms. The other obvious manifestation of this obsession is the huge number of alarms, high walls and electronically controlled gates you’ll see, not just in the suburbs, but even in less deprived areas of some townships. Fortunately, security at respectable tourist accommodation in the Western Cape is well managed and guests rarely feel unsafe or overwhelmed by burglar bars and trellis doors.
Guns are openly carried by police and women’s handbags often sport a can of pepper spray past its expiry date. In some malls you’ll spot firearms shops rubbing shoulders with places selling clothes or books, and you may see the odd notice asking you to deposit your weapon before entering the premises.
If you fall victim to a mugging, you should take very seriously the usual advice not to resist, and do as you’re told. The chances of being mugged can be greatly minimized by using common sense and following a few simple rules.
Alcohol is unquestionably the most widely used and abused drug in South Africa, followed by dagga (pronounced like “dugger” with the “gg” guttural, as in the Scottish pronunciation of “loch”) or cannabis in dried leaf form. Locally grown and produced, marijuana is fairly easily available and the quality is generally good – but this doesn’t alter the fact that it is illegal.
Strangely, for a country that sometimes seems to be on one massive binge, South Africa has laws that prohibit drinking in public – not that anyone pays much attention to them. The drink-drive laws are routinely and brazenly flouted, making the country’s roads a real danger that you should be concerned about. People routinely stock up their cars with booze for long journeys and levels of alcohol consumption go some way to explaining why, during the Christmas holidays, over a thousand people die in an annual period of road carnage. Attempts are being made to deal with the problem, including the widely publicized Arrive Alive campaign (arrivealive.co.za), the confiscation of drunk drivers’ vehicles and fining motorists travelling well over the speed limit. Don’t risk drinking and driving, as nocturnal roadblocks are common in and around Cape Town.
South Africa’s extremely high incidence of rape doesn’t as a rule affect tourists. However, sexism is more common and attitudes are not as progressive as in Western countries, especially in black communities. Sometimes your eagerness to be friendly may be taken as a sexual overture – be sensitive to potential crossed wires and unintended signals.
Women should take care while travelling on their own, and should avoid hitchhiking or walking alone in deserted areas. This applies equally to Cape Town, the countryside or anywhere after dark. Minibus taxis should also be ruled out as a means of transport after dark; a taxi is the safest option, more so if you’re travelling with others.
• Don’t openly display expensive watches, jewellery, phones or cameras in cities.
• Use hotel safes.
• If you are accosted, remain calm and cooperative.
• Grasp bags firmly under your arm.
• Don’t carry excessive sums of money on you.
• Always know where your valuables are.
• Don’t leave valuables exposed (on a seat or the ground) while having a meal or drink.
• Don’t let strangers get too close to you – especially people in groups.
• Don’t walk alone at night and always avoid isolated areas.
• Lock all your car doors, especially in cities.
• Keep rear windows sufficiently rolled up to keep out opportunistic hands.
• Never leave anything worth stealing in view when your car is unattended.
• If you’ve concealed valuables in the boot, don’t open it after parking.
• Take only the bare essentials.
• Don’t leave valuables, especially phones and cameras, unattended.
• Safeguard car keys by pinning them to your swimming gear, or putting them in a waterproof wallet or splash box and taking them into the water with you.
Cash machines are favourite hunting grounds for sophisticated con men, who use cunning rather than force to steal money. Never underestimate their ability and don’t get drawn into any interaction at an ATM, no matter how well spoken, friendly or distressed the other person appears. If they claim to have a problem with the machine, tell them to contact the bank. Don’t let people crowd you or see your personal identification number (PIN) when you withdraw money; if in doubt, go to another machine. Finally, if your card gets swallowed, report it without delay.
• Never let your card out of your sight.
• At a restaurant, ask for a portable card reader to be brought to your table.
• At the till, keep an eye on your card.
• If the transaction fails, don’t try a second time; pay with cash or another card.
• It’s common for the amount being debited to not appear on the card-reader screen.
Dismally paid, poorly trained, shot at (and frequently hit), underfunded, badly equipped, barely respected and demoralized, the South African Police Service (SAPS) keeps a low profile. If you ever get stopped, at a roadblock for example (one of the likeliest encounters), always be courteous. And if you’re driving, note that under South African law you are required to carry your driving licence at all times. If you can’t show your licence, a photocopy or another form of ID, you may be fined, although traffic police are often more lenient towards tourists. If you are fined and you suspect corruption, asking to be issued with a receipt will discourage foul play or at least give you a record of the incident.
If you are robbed, you will need to report the crime to the police, who should give you a case reference; keep all paperwork for insurance purposes. Don’t expect too much crime-cracking enthusiasm, or to get your property back.
As a winter rainfall area, Cape Town typically is at its coldest, wettest and stormiest from May to August. Having said that, it’s not uncommon to have days or weeks of glorious sunshine at this time of year.
During the peak of the summer (November to February) you can expect long sunny days (and the blast of the seasonal southeasterly wind) with average temperatures peaking at 27ºC in February. Droughts and bush fires are increasingly common during the summer.
In autumn and spring you can expect milder temperatures with occasional warm days without the summer wind and high UV index.
For budget and midrange travellers, the most expensive thing about visiting South Africa is getting there. Once you’ve arrived, you’re likely to find it a relatively inexpensive and good-value destination. How affordable you find South Africa will depend partly on exchange rates at the time of your visit – since becoming fully convertible (after the advent of democracy in South Africa) the rand has seen some massive fluctuations against sterling, the dollar and the euro.
When it comes to daily budgets, your biggest expense is likely to be accommodation. If you’re willing to stay in backpacker dorms and self-cater, you should be able to sleep and eat for under R500 (£31/US$39/€35) per person per day. Dorm beds cost around R140 to R390 in Cape Town, while backpacker doubles go for R350 to R1200. If you stay in B&Bs and guesthouses, eat out once a day, and have a snack or two you should expect to spend at least double that budget. Cape Town’s luxury hotels mostly charge between R5000 (£310/US$390/€350) and R10000 for a standard double; high-end guesthouses and boutique hotels are often a better deal, offering a special experience for under R3000. Luxury safari lodges around Addo and in the private game reserves are in roughly the same bracket as the top-end hotels, with packages available including extras such as safaris, car rental, horseriding and other outdoor activities. While most museums and art galleries impose an entry fee, it’s usually quite low: only the most sophisticated attractions charge more than R50 (£3.10/US$3.90/€3.50).
South Africa’s electricity supply runs at 220/230V, 50Hz AC. Most sockets take unique plugs with three fat, round pins, although sockets taking European-style two-pin plugs are common. Most hotel rooms have sockets that will take 110V electric shavers, but for other appliances US visitors will need an adaptor to make their appliances compatible with South Africa’s 220V system.
Police 10111; state ambulance 10177; cellphone emergency operator 112; ER24 private ambulance and paramedic assistance 084 124; Netcare 911 082 911.
It’s wise to take out an insurance policy to cover against theft, loss and illness or injury. A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, valuables and – up to a certain limit – cash and bank cards, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most of them exclude so-called dangerous sports unless an extra premium is paid: in South Africa this can mean scuba diving, white-water rafting, windsurfing, horseriding, bungee jumping and paragliding. In addition to these it’s well worth checking whether you are covered by your policy if you’re hiking, kayaking, pony trekking or game viewing on safari, all activities people commonly take part in when visiting South Africa.
Rough Guides has teamed up with WorldNomads.com to offer great travel insurance deals. Policies are available to residents of over 150 countries, with cover for a wide range of adventure sports, 24hr emergency assistance, high levels of medical and evacuation cover and a stream of travel safety information. Roughguides.com users can take advantage of their policies online 24/7, from anywhere in the world – even if you’re already travelling. And since plans often change when you’re on the road, you can extend your policy and even claim online. Roughguides.com users who buy travel insurance with WorldNomads.com can also leave a positive footprint and donate to a community development project. For more information, go to roughguides.com/travel-insurance.
Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don’t need – for example, sickness and accident benefits can often be excluded or included at will. Do take medical coverage, as it will enable you to use South Africa’s excellent-quality private healthcare with the prospect of a refund by your insurer, rather than relying on the less impressive state facilities. Ascertain whether benefits will be paid as treatment proceeds or only after you return home, if there is a 24-hour medical emergency number and if medical evacuation will be covered.
If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an official statement from the police.
When buying baggage cover, make sure that the per-article limit will cover your most valuable possession.
Accessing the internet is easy in and around Cape Town and the Garden Route: internet cafés are found even in small towns, and most backpacker hostels and hotels have internet facilities, albeit sometimes too slow for Skype calls. It’s easiest to bring your own device, enabling you to use the paid or free wireless hotspots at airports, cafés, malls and accommodation. Bring your smartphone too, as South Africa is increasing its reliance on apps for ordering everything from taxis to takeaway food.
The deceptively familiar feel of South African post offices can lull you into expecting an efficient service. In fact, post within the country can be slow and unreliable, and certainly not safe for sending money or valuables. Expect domestic delivery times from one city to another of about a week – longer if a rural town is involved at either end.
International airmail deliveries are often quicker, thanks to the city’s direct flights to London. A letter or package sent by surface mail can take up to six weeks to get from South Africa to London. Post is less reliable and trustworthy coming into the country, when items frequently disappear or take weeks to arrive.
Most towns of any size have a post office, generally open Monday to Friday 8.30am to 4.30pm and Saturday till noon (closing earlier in some places). A much better option, the ubiquitous private PostNet outlets (postnet.co.za) offer many of the same postal services as the post office and more, including courier services. Courier companies like FedEx (0800 033 339, fedex.com/za) and DHL (086 034 5000, dhl.co.za), available only in the larger towns, are far more reliable than the mail.
Stamps are available at post offices and from newsagents such as the CNA chain. Postage is relatively inexpensive – it costs about R8 to send a postcard by airmail to anywhere in the world, while a small letter costs just over R9. You can open a post box at most post offices and PostNet branches.
You’ll find up-to-date maps of Cape Town, its suburbs, the Winelands and the Garden Route in this guide, but if you’re looking for more substantial maps, make sure they’re up to date as many place and street names have been changed since the 1994 elections. Bartholomew produces an excellent map of South Africa, including Lesotho and Swaziland, as part of its World Travel Map series. The best hiking and touring maps of the Western Cape are published by Cape Town’s Slingsby Maps (slingsbymaps.com) and available through Map Studio (mapstudio.co.za) and bookshops. Maps cover the Cape Peninsula, Winelands, Garden Route and beyond.
South Africa’s motoring organization, the Automobile Association (aa.co.za), has free maps available to download from its website.
South Africa’s currency is the rand (R), often called the “buck”, divided into 100 cents. Notes come in R10, R20, R50, R100 and R200 denominations and there are coins of 50 cents, and R1, 2, 5. The exchange rate often fluctuates wildly, generally in favour of visitors; in mid-2017, it averaged around R17 to the pound sterling (down from a pre-Brexit high of R24), R13 to the US dollar, R14 to the euro and R10 to the Australian dollar.
All but the tiniest settlement will have a bank, where you can withdraw and change money, or an ATM. Banking hours vary, but are at least from Monday to Friday 9am to 3.30pm, and Saturday 8.30am to 11am; banks in smaller towns usually close for lunch. In major cities, large hotels and banks operate bureaux de change. Outside banking hours, some hotel receptions will change money, although this entails a fairly hefty commission.
You can also change money at branches of American Express (americanexpressforex.co.za). In all cases, keep exchange receipts, which you’ll need to show to convert your leftover rand at the end of your trip.
Credit and debit cards are the most convenient way to access your funds in South Africa. Most international cards can be used to withdraw money at ATMs, open 24 hours a day in the cities and elsewhere. South African banks usually charge a fee of around R30–45 for withdrawal. Plastic comes in very handy for paying for more mainstream and upmarket tourist facilities, including hotels, restaurants and tour operators, and a credit card with funds available to block as a security deposit is essential for renting a car. Visa and MasterCard are the cards most widely accepted.
American Express, Visa and Thomas Cook travellers’ cheques are widely accepted. US dollar and sterling cheques are accepted, and better to carry than cheques in the weaker rand.
If you’re heading into remote areas, you’ll need to carry cash to tide you between ATMs, which are unreliable in rural regions. Stash it in a safe place, or even better in a few places on your person and baggage.
The working day starts and finishes early in South Africa: shops and businesses generally open on weekdays around 8.30am and close at 4.30pm. In small towns, many places close for an hour over lunch. Many shops and businesses close around noon on Saturdays, and most are closed on Sundays. However, in urban neighbourhoods, you’ll find small shops and supermarkets where you can buy groceries and essentials after hours.
Many tourist-related businesses and some shops remain open over public holidays, although often with shorter opening hours. Most of the country shuts down on Christmas Day and Good Friday. The main holidays are:
New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Human Rights Day (March 21)
Good Friday, Easter Monday (variable)
Freedom Day (April 27)
Workers’ Day (May 1)
Youth Day (June 16)
National Women’s Day (Aug 9)
Heritage Day (Sept 24)
Day of Reconciliation (Dec 16)
Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Day of Goodwill (Dec 26)
Some establishments have summer and winter opening times. In such situations, you can take winter to mean roughly April to September, while summer constitutes the rest of the year.
School holidays can disrupt your plans, especially if you want to camp, or stay in the national parks and the budget end of accommodation (self-catering, cheaper B&Bs, etc). All are likely to be booked solid during holiday periods, especially along the coast. If you travel to South Africa over a school holiday, book accommodation well in advance, particularly for the national parks.
The longest and busiest holiday period is Christmas (summer), which for schools stretches from early December to mid-January. Flights and train berths can be hard to get from mid-December to early January, when many businesses and offices close for their annual break. You should book your flights – long-haul and domestic – six months in advance for the Christmas period. The remaining school holidays roughly cover the following periods: Easter, late March to mid-April; winter, late June to mid-July; and spring, late September to early October. Exact dates for each year are listed at gov.za/about-sa/school-calendar.
South Africa’s telephone system, dominated by Telkom (telkom.co.za), generally works well. Public phone booths are found in every city and town, and are either coin- or card-operated. While international calls can be made from virtually any phone, it helps to have a phonecard such as Telkom WorldCall. Prepaid WorldCall vouchers and recharge cards are available at Telkom offices, supermarkets, banks and more in denominations of R10 upwards.
Mobile phones (referred to locally as cell phones) are extremely widely used in South Africa, with more mobile than landline handsets in use. The competing networks – Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Virgin Mobile – cover all the main areas and the national roads connecting them.
You can use 2G, 3G and 4G phones from outside South Africa, but you will need to arrange a roaming agreement with your provider at home. A far cheaper alternative is to buy a very inexpensive prepaid local SIM card. These can be bought for about R20 from the ubiquitous mobile phone shops and various other outlets, including supermarkets. You will need your ID and a proof of address, which can be a hotel receipt or a signed letter from your accommodation or host. You can subsequently purchase data bundles as well as call credit.
It’s also possible to rent a South African mobile phone through your car-rental provider.
To make an international call, dial the international access code (in South Africa it’s +00), then the destination’s country code, before the rest of the number. In both cases, remember to omit the initial zero in the number of the place you’re phoning.
Australia international access code + 61
New Zealand international access code + 64
UK international access code + 44
US and Canada international access code + 1
Ireland international access code + 353
South Africa international access code + 27
B4i.travel b4i.travel. Offers the same services, with collection points at Cape Town International Airport and the Waterfront.
Vodacom Rentals vodacomrentals.co.za. SIM and phone rentals.
Value-added tax (VAT) of fourteen percent is levied on most goods and services, though it’s usually already included in the quoted price. Foreign visitors can claim back VAT on goods worth over R250 total. To do this, present an official tax receipt, which should carry your name and address in the case of purchases over R5000, along with a proof of payment for purchases over R10000, a non-South African passport and the purchased goods themselves, at the airport just before you fly out. You will also need to fill in a form, which can be obtained at international airports. At Cape Town International Airport, goods are inspected by customs officers in the arrivals terminal. For more information, visit taxrefunds.co.za or call 011 979 0055.
There is only one time zone throughout South Africa, two hours ahead of GMT year-round. If you’re flying from anywhere in Europe, you shouldn’t experience any jet lag.
Ten to fifteen percent of the tab is the usual tip in restaurants, while taxi fares are generally rounded up. Don’t feel obliged to tip if service has been shoddy, but keep in mind that many of the people who’ll be serving you rely on tips to supplement a meagre wage on which they support huge extended families. Porters at hotels normally get about R10 per bag. At South African garages and petrol stations, someone will always be on hand to fill your vehicle, clean your windscreen and check your oil, water and tyre pressure, for which you should tip R5–10. Car guards meanwhile expect around R2–5. Many establishments, especially private game lodges, take (voluntary) communal tips when you check out – by far the fairest system, which ensures that all the low-profile staff behind the scenes get their share.
There are official tourist information bureaus in Cape Town and most towns have some sort of information office, but in smaller spots your accommodation will likely be a better source of local knowledge. If you’re seeing South Africa on a budget, the useful notice boards, constant traveller traffic and largely helpful and friendly staff you’ll encounter in backpacker hostels will greatly smooth your travels.
There are countless guidebooks on walks around Cape Town, hikes up Table Mountain, dive sites, fishing locations, surfing breaks, windsurfing spots and so on. This guide includes bookshop recommendations.
To find out what’s on, check out websites such as Cape Town Magazine (capetownmagazine.com) and What’s On in Cape Town (whatsonincapetown.com); the entertainment pages of the daily newspapers; and the Mail & Guardian (mg.co.za), which comes out every Friday and lists the coming week’s offerings in a comprehensive pull-out supplement.
Cape Town Tourism capetown.travel 086 132 2223. Main office in the city centre at the Pinnacle, Burg & Castle streets, open Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–1pm. Has a South African National Parks desk. Also at Cape Town International Airport and the Waterfront, while there is a non-accredited information desk at the lower Table Mountain Aerial Cableway station.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs dfat.gov.au.
British Foreign & Commonwealth Office fco.gov.uk.
Canadian Global Affairs international.gc.ca.
Irish Department of Foreign Affairs foreignaffairs.gov.ie.
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs mfat.govt.nz.
US State Department state.gov.
Facilities for disabled travellers are not as sophisticated as those you might find in Europe and the US, but they’re sufficient to ensure you have a satisfactory visit. By accident, often, rather than design, you’ll find pretty good accessibility to many buildings, as South Africans tend to build low (single-storey bungalows are the norm). As the car is king, you’ll frequently find that you can drive to, and park right outside, your destination. Many attractions also offer boardwalks and Braille trails, including Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden.
There are organized tours and holidays for people with disabilities, and activity-based packages are available. These offer the possibility for wheelchair-bound visitors to take part in safaris, sport and a range of adventure activities. Tours can either be taken as self-drive trips or as packages for groups.
If you want to be more independent on your travels, it’s important to know where you can expect help and where you must be self-reliant, especially regarding transport and accommodation. Cape Town is a Westernised and relatively accessible destination, but other areas will offer fewer helpful facilities. If you do not use a wheelchair all the time but your walking capabilities are limited, remember that you are likely to need to cover greater distances while travelling (often over rough terrain and in hot temperatures) than you are used to. If you use a wheelchair, have it serviced before you go and take a repair kit with you.
brandsouthafrica.com/tourism-south-africa/travel/advice/disabled Useful overview and links.
capetown.travel Cape Town Tourism has a page on wheelchair-friendly activities.
www.disabledtravel.co.za Website of occupational therapist Karin Coetzee aimed at disabled travellers, with listings of accommodation, restaurants and attractions personally evaluated for accessibility as well as links to car rental, tours and orthopaedic equipment.
epic-enabled.com Accommodation, tours and safaris.
flamingotours.co.za Flamingo tours and Disabled Ventures specialize in tours for visitors with special needs.
rollingsa.co.za Accommodation, tours and safaris.
sanparks.org/groups/disabilities/general.php Lists what wheelchair- and mobility-impaired access and facilities are available at South African National Parks.