17.  BIRYANIS

BIRYANI is to India what risotto is to Italy and the paella is to Spain, only more so. Among Indians there is an intense patriotism about this sumptuous dish; a sense of pride and splendor. In many parts of India, no lavish feast could lay claim to that status without the presence of biryani.

The true biryani is indeed a magnificent dish; the best basmati rice layered with succulent meats in delicious sauces, flavored with exquisite “sweet” spices such as saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, gently baked in sealed pots until the aromas and flavors permeate the layers and, finally, adorned with expensive ingredients like almonds, pistachios, cashews and dried fruits braised in pure ghee (clarified butter).

Its attraction is legendary. One tale has it that biryani was created by the beautiful Mumtaz Mahal, the queen of King Shah Jehan (the famous Taj Mahal was built by the king as her tomb after she died during childbirth), as a means of providing a complete meal to feed their army.

With such a lavish concoction, the princely Mughals inevitably played a significant part in the creation of the biryani. Food historians believe that the dish originated in Persia and was introduced to India by the extravagant, food-loving Mughals during the early part of the 16th century. Indeed, the word biryani is derived from the Persian word birian, which means “fried or roasted before cooking.”

The popularity and importance of biryani quickly spread throughout the Middle East, South Asia and Southeast Asia, and an enormous variety of biryanis have been developed, many taking on the name of the region or the ruler of the time. So high was the status granted to this dish, there are claims that the earlier Punjabi nawabs (provincial governors or viceroys of regions during the Mughal era) wore a particular turban for each variety of biryani popular in the region.

Traditionally, goat meat was used to make biryani, but nowadays it is common to use lamb, chicken, fish and vegetables of all types. The common threads are the layers of cooked rice between the meat and vegetables, the sealed-pot (dum) style of cooking, and the unfading importance still attached to this fabulous dish.

PREPARATION FOR BIRYANIS

A good biryani should be spicy with lots of sweet and savory aromas, but never hot. Traditional biryanis, like many other traditional Indian dishes, incorporate a dozen or more spices and take hours of preparation and cooking, with each variety of biryani differing in the combination of spices used according to the style of cooking of the region.

Restaurant methods simplify the process by the prior preparation of meat, sauces and basic spice blends, adding specific ingredients as required for a particular recipe. You can use chicken as prepared for chicken curries (page 59) or lamb as prepared for lamb curries (page 71).

You will also need to prepare a small quantity of the following Biryani Spice Blend.

ACCOMPANIMENTS TO BIRYANI

A good biryani is full of flavor and aroma, but it is quite a dry dish. Traditionally it is served with yogurt, pickles, spicy salads and chutneys, and does not require a sauce or gravy. However, restaurant biryanis generally come with a curry sauce on the side to satisfy the Western penchant for sauce. I have included recipes for traditional and modern accompaniments to the biryani.

 

BIRYANI SPICE BLEND

1 tsp green cardamom pods

1 tsp cloves

1 tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp mace

2 tsp cumin seeds

two 1-inch (2.5 cm) sticks of cinnamon

1 nutmeg, crushed

Grind all the ingredients to a fine powder in an electric grinder or pestle and mortar. Place in a small jar, label and store in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 weeks for best results.

 

ULLI SURKA (ONION AND CHILI SALAD)

1 red onion, sliced

2 green chilies, deseeded and sliced

3 tbsp water

½ tsp salt flakes

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, crushing the chilies with the back of a spoon to release the flavors. Allow to stand for about 30 minutes before serving.

 

BIRYANI CHAMMANTHI

6 tbsp grated fresh coconut

2 green chilies, coarsely chopped

2 tsp grated ginger

handful of mint leaves

handful of cilantro

4 fl oz (120 mL) yogurt

½ tsp salt

Grind the coconut, chilies, ginger, mint and cilantro to a coarse paste. Combine with the yogurt and salt.

 

YOGURT CHUTNEY

9 fl oz (250 mL) plain yogurt

6 tbsp shredded cilantro

3 tbsp shredded mint leaves

2 green chilies, finely sliced

1 clove of garlic, finely sliced

½ tsp green mango powder

½ tsp salt

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Allow to stand for 30 minutes before serving.

 

CURRY SAUCE

18 fl oz/1 US pint (500 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp chili powder

½ tsp paprika

½ tsp salt

½ tsp garam masala

In a clean pan, bring the curry sauce to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes until slightly thickened. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Simmer for a minute and serve.

BIRYANI DISHES

MALABAR SHRIMP BIRYANI

Gentle spice aromas with succulent shrimp.

KOZHIKODE CHICKEN BIRYANI

Chicken pieces with fresh herbs and aromatic spices.

SHAHI BIRYANI

A sumptuous lamb dish cooked in the lavish style of the grand Mughal emperors.

HYDERABADI VEGETABLE BIRYANI

A vegetarian dish that combines the rich, creamy style of north Indian cuisine and the pungent, sharp flavors of the south.

MALABAR SHRIMP BIRYANI

Malabar is a region of southern India nestling along the southwest coast of the Indian peninsula. Its cuisine is generally milder and gentler than that of its immediate neighbors. The Malabar region is synonymous with biryani, and seafood, such as the shrimp in this recipe, is a common ingredient in many of its dishes.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 35 minutes

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, sliced

4 bay leaves, fresh or dried

1 tsp biryani spice blend (page 144)

1 green chili, finely sliced

1 lb (450 g) raw shrimp

1 1 fl oz (300 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

3 fl oz (100 mL) coconut milk

2 tsp lemon juice

1 tsp salt

1 lb 12 oz (800 g) saffron pilau rice (page 166)

1 tbsp grated coconut

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the onion. Fry on medium heat for about 3 minutes until translucent.

   Add the bay leaves, spice blend and chili, and fry for another minute. Stir in the shrimp and stir-fry for 2 minutes.

   Add the curry sauce, coconut milk, lemon juice and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

   Meanwhile, microwave the rice on high for 2 minutes. Fluff up the rice gently with a fork and place half in a deep ovenproof dish with a tight-fitting lid.

   Spoon the shrimp mixture over the rice layer and cover with the remaining rice. Put the lid firmly on the dish and place in the oven for 20 minutes.

   Serve sprinkled with the grated coconut and cilantro, and with accompaniments of choice.

KOZHIKODE CHICKEN BIRYANI

Kozhikode is a city in the southern Indian coastal state of Kerala. Its cuisine has been described as one of the world’s earliest fusion cuisines with influences from the Tamils, Arabs, East Asians, Sinhalese and even the Mughals.

Kozhikode is famous for its biryanis, typically served with vinegary pickles and popadoms.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 35 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

6 curry leaves, fresh or frozen

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, finely chopped (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

½ tsp turmeric

1 tsp biryani spice blend (page 144)

1 tsp poppy seeds, ground to a paste

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

½ tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken (page 59)

7 fl oz (200 mL) plain yogurt

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

2 tbsp chopped mint leaves

1 tbsp lime juice

1 lb 12 oz (800 g) pilau rice (page 163)

2 tbsp melted ghee (clarified butter, page 24)

1 tbsp raw cashew nuts

1 tbsp sultana raisins

1 hard-boiled egg, sliced

   Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the curry leaves, garlic, ginger and chilies. Fry for a minute or two on medium heat and add the turmeric, spice blend and poppy-seed paste. Cook for another minute.

   Stir in the curry sauce and salt and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then add the chicken and yogurt.

   Bring back to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the cilantro, mint and lime juice.

   Meanwhile, microwave the rice on high for 2 minutes. Fluff up the rice gently with a fork and place half in a deep ovenproof dish with a tight-fitting lid.

   Spoon the chicken mixture over the rice layer and cover with the remaining rice. Put the lid firmly on the dish and place in the oven for 20 minutes.

   Heat the ghee in a small pan and gently braise the cashew nuts and raisins until the nuts turn a pale golden brown and the raisins plump up.

   Serve the biryani garnished with the egg slices and sprinkled with the nuts and raisins.

SHAHI BIRYANI

Mughlai cuisine, so named because it originates from the era of the grand Mughals, is renowned for being rich and lavish. Among the many and varied cuisines that were to become native to India, this one has been at the forefront of shaping the way Indians cook and eat today. This delicious dish is testament to that magnificent era.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 45 minutes

4 tbsp melted ghee (clarified butter, page 24)

2 tbsp almonds, blanched

2 tbsp golden raisins

1 tsp saffron

4 tbsp milk, warmed

3 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, sliced

2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced

1½ tsp biryani spice blend (page 144)

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

½ tsp chili powder ½ tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

3 fl oz (100 mL) plain yogurt

3 fl oz (100 mL) light cream

½ tsp garam masala

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

1 lb 12 oz (800 g) saffron pilau rice (page 166)

   Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

   Heat the ghee in a small pan and gently braise the almonds and raisins until the nuts have turned a pale golden brown, and the raisins have plumped up. Set aside.

   Add the saffron to the warmed milk, stir and set aside.

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the onion. Stir-fry on medium heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

   Add the garlic to the oil remaining in the pan and stir-fry for a few seconds. Stir in the spice blend and cook for another few seconds until aromatic.

   Add the curry sauce, chili powder and salt, and bring to a boil. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes until the sauce is thick.

   Stir in the lamb and yogurt, and bring back to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then stir in the cream. Bring back to a gentle simmer and simmer for another 5 minutes before stirring in the garam masala and cilantro.

   Meanwhile, microwave the rice on high for 2 minutes. Fluff up the rice gently with a fork and place half in a deep ovenproof dish with a tight-fitting lid. Sprinkle half the onion, almonds, raisins, melted ghee and saffron milk over the rice.

   Spoon the lamb mixture over the rice layer and cover with the remaining rice. Sprinkle the remaining onion, almonds, raisins, melted ghee and saffron milk over the rice.

   Put the lid firmly on the dish and place in the oven for 20 minutes. Serve with accompaniments of choice.

HYDERABADI VEGETABLE BIRYANI

Another famous biryani created from a melding of the rich, creamy aromatic dishes of northern India and the sharp, piquant and pungent flavors of the south.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 45 minutes

6 tbsp light cream, warmed

1 tsp saffron

4 tbsp ghee (clarified butter, page 24) or olive oil

3 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

½ tsp turmeric

1 tsp biryani spice blend (page 144)

1 large potato, peeled and diced

3 carrots, peeled and diced

1 tbsp cashew nuts

1 tbsp sultana raisins

14 fl oz (400 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp salt

½ tsp chili powder

3 fl oz (100 mL) plain yogurt

2 tbsp chopped mint

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

1 tbsp almonds, blanched

1 lime, juiced

1 lb 12 oz (800 g) pilau rice (page 163)

   Combine the warm cream and saffron, and set aside.

   Heat the ghee or oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the chilies, turmeric and spice blend. Stir for a few seconds and add the vegetables.

   Stir-fry on gentle heat for 3 minutes and add the nuts, raisins, curry sauce, salt and chili powder. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 10–15 minutes until the vegetables are just tender.

   Stir in the yogurt and half the saffron cream, and simmer for another 5 minutes before stirring in the mint and cilantro.

   Meanwhile, microwave the rice on high for 2 minutes. Fluff up the rice gently with a fork and place half in a deep ovenproof dish with a tight-fitting lid. Sprinkle half the lime juice over the mixture.

   Spoon the vegetable mixture over the rice layer and cover with the remaining rice. Sprinkle the remaining lime juice and saffron cream over the dish.

   Put the lid firmly on the dish and place in the oven for 20 minutes. Serve hot with accompaniments of choice.