Map: Hotels near Termini Station
Sleeping Cheaply, Northeast of the Station
Map: Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome
Map: Hotels in the Pantheon Neighborhood
Near Largo Argentina and Campo de’ Fiori
Map: Hotels & Restaurants in Trastevere
Map: Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City
Choosing the right neighborhood in Rome is as important as choosing the right hotel. All of my recommended accommodations are in safe areas convenient to sightseeing. The Termini train station neighborhood is handy for public transit and services, although not particularly charming. Hotels near ancient Rome are close to the Colosseum and Roman Forum. The most romantic ambience is in neighborhoods near the Pantheon, which encompass the Campo de’ Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto. Equally pleasant, if a bit rougher, is Trastevere. Finally, hotels near Vatican City put St. Peter’s and the Vatican Museums at your doorstep.
My recommendations include everything from €25 bunks to deluxe €350 doubles, although most of the hotels listed here cluster around €150. Cheaper doubles (around €100) are available, but I’ve favored these pricier options because intense Rome is easier to enjoy with a welcoming oasis to call home. It’s common for hotels in Rome to lower their prices 10-50 percent in the off-season, although prices at hostels and cheaper hotels won’t fluctuate much. Room rates are lowest in sweltering August. For some travelers, short-term, Airbnb-type rentals can be a good alternative; search for places in my recommended hotel neighborhoods.
Book any accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during peak season (April-June and Sept-early Nov) or if your trip coincides with a major holiday or festival (see here).
I rank accommodations from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. To get the best deal, contact my family-run hotels directly by phone or email. By going direct, the owner avoids a roughly 20 percent commission and may be able to offer you a discount. For information and tips on hotel rates and deals, making reservations, and finding a short-term rental, see here.
Sleeping at Convents: Rome has many convents that rent out rooms. At convents, the beds are twins and English is often in short supply, but the price is right. I’ve listed four nun-run places in this chapter: the expensive but divine Casa di Santa Brigida (near Campo de’ Fiori), Suore di Santa Elisabetta (near Termini Station), Casa Il Rosario (near Piazza Venezia), and Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci (near the Vatican). For a longer list of convents, see the Church of Santa Susanna’s website (www.santasusanna.org—select “Resources” and then “Convent Accommodations”).
While this neighborhood is not as atmospheric as other areas of Rome, the hotels near Termini train station are less expensive, and the Metro and buses link you easily to the rest of the city. All the listings below are within a 10-minute walk of the station (some are actually closer to the Repubblica Metro stop).
Most of these hotels are on or near Via Firenze, a safe, handy, central, and relatively quiet street that’s a 10-minute walk from Termini and the airport train, and two blocks beyond Piazza della Repubblica. The Defense Ministry is nearby, so you’ve got heavily armed guards watching over you all night.
The neighborhood is served by two Metro stops: Repubblica (line A), and Termini (intersection of lines A and B). Virtually all the city buses that rumble down Via Nazionale (#60, #64, #70, and the #40 express) take you to Piazza Venezia (near the Forum). From Piazza Venezia, bus #64 (jammed with people and thieves) and the #40 express bus continue to Largo Argentina (for the Pantheon and Campo de’ Fiori) and the Vatican area. Or, at Piazza Venezia, you can transfer to tram #8 to Trastevere (get off at first stop after crossing the river). Bus #H also runs direct to Trastevere, leaving from Piazza della Repubblica (on the northeast side of the square, near the entrance to Baths of Diocletian; none on Sun). If you’re staying near the Santa Susanna and Santa Maria della Vittoria churches, buses from nearby Largo Santa Susanna (#62, #85, and #492) wind through the city center (leaving from the Bissolati stop; returning, the stop name is Largo S. Susanna). It’s actually a pleasant downhill walk from these hotels to the Pantheon (about 25 minutes along Via Rasella and past the Trevi Fountain); you can save the bus for the uphill return journey.
These neighborhood supermarkets are all open daily until late: Co-op (Via Nazionale 213, at the corner of Via Venezia), Simply (behind Santa Maria Maggiore Church at Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore 5B, in the basement), and Sapori & Dintori (downstairs from the inner atrium at Termini Station). There are many smaller grocery stores as well.
$$$$ Residenza Cellini feels like the guest wing of a gorgeous Neoclassical palace. It offers 11 rooms, “ortho/anti-allergy beds,” four-star comforts and service, and a small, breezy terrace (RS%, air-con, elevator, Via Modena 5, third floor, tel. 06-4782-5204, www.residenzacellini.it, info@residenzacellini.it; Barbara, Gaetano, and Donato).
$$$$ Hotel Modigliani, a delightful 23-room place, is energetically run in a clean, bright, minimalist yet in-love-with-life style that its artist namesake would appreciate. It has a vast and plush lounge, a garden, and a newsletter introducing you to each of the staff (RS%, air-con, elevator; northwest of Via Firenze—from Tritone Fountain on Piazza Barberini, go 2 blocks up Via della Purificazione to #42; tel. 06-4281-5226, www.hotelmodigliani.com, info@hotelmodigliani.com, Giulia and Marco).
$$$$ IQ Hotel, in a modern blue building facing the Opera House, feels almost Scandinavian in its efficiency, without a hint of the Old World. It lacks charm, but more than compensates with modern amenities. Its 88 rooms are fresh and spacious, the roof garden comes with a play area and foosball, and vending machines dispense bottles of wine (RS%, family rooms, breakfast extra, air-con, elevator, cheap self-service laundry, gym, Via Firenze 8, tel. 06-488-0465, www.iqhotelroma.it, info@iqhotelroma.it, Diego).
$$$ Hotel Aberdeen, which combines quality and friendliness, is warmly run by Annamaria, with support from sister Laura and cousin Cinzia, and staff members Mariano, Costel, and Matteo. The 36 comfy rooms, on the ground floor and one floor up, are a fine value (RS%—use “Rick Steves reader reservations” link, family rooms, air-con, Via Firenze 48, tel. 06-482-3920, www.hotelaberdeen.it, info@hotelaberdeen.it).
$$$ Hotel Opera Roma, with contemporary furnishings and marble accents, boasts 15 spacious, modern, and thoughtfully appointed rooms. It’s quiet and just a stone’s throw from the Opera House (air-con, elevator, Via Firenze 11, tel. 06-487-1787, www.hoteloperaroma.com, info@hoteloperaroma.com; Reza, Litu, and Federica).
$$$ Hotel Sonya offers 40 well-equipped if small rooms, a hearty breakfast, and decent prices (family rooms, air-con, elevator, faces the Opera House at Via Viminale 58, tel. 06-481-9911, www.hotelsonya.it, info@hotelsonya.it, Francesca and Ivan).
$$$ Target Inn is a sleek, practical six-room place next to Residenza Cellini (listed earlier). It’s owned by the same people who run the recommended Target Restaurant nearby (RS%, air-con, elevator, Via Modena 5, third floor, tel. 06-474-5399, www.targetinn.com, info@targetinn.com).
$$ Hotel Oceania is a peaceful slice of air-conditioned heaven. The 24 rooms are spacious, quiet, and tastefully decorated, and the elegant sitting room has a manor-house feel. Stefano runs a fine staff, serves wonderful coffee, provides lots of thoughtful extra touches, and works hard to maintain a caring family atmosphere (RS%—use code “RICKSTEVES,” family rooms, elevator, TV lounge, Via Firenze 38, third floor, tel. 06-482-4696, www.hoteloceania.it, info@hoteloceania.it; Anna, Kira, and Roberto round out the staff).
$$ Hotel Selene Roma spreads its 40 stylish rooms out on a few floors of a big palazzo. With elegant furnishings and room to breathe, it’s a good value (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via del Viminale 8, reception at #10, tel. 06-474-4781, www.hotelseleneroma.it, reception@hotelseleneroma.it).
$$ Bellesuite Rome offers six small but nice rooms that are worth considering for the location—in the same fine building as Residenza Cellini and Target Inn (family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via Modena 5, third floor, tel. 06-9521-3049, www.bellesuiterome.com, mail@bellesuiterome.com, Martina).
$$ Hotel Nardizzi Americana, with a small rooftop terrace, 40 standard rooms, and a laid-back atmosphere, is another decent value (RS%—email reservation for discount, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via Firenze 38, fourth floor, tel. 06-488-0035, www.hotelnardizzi.it, info@hotelnardizzi.it; friendly Stefano, Fabrizio, Mario, and Giancarlo).
$$ Hotel Italia Roma, in a busy and handy locale, is located safely on a quiet street next to the Ministry of the Interior. It has 35 modest but comfortable rooms plus four newer, more expensive “residenza” rooms on the third floor (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via Venezia 18, just off Via Nazionale, tel. 06-482-8355, www.hotelitaliaroma.it, info@hotelitaliaroma.it; Andrea, Sabrina, Abdul, and Eleonora). They offer eight similar annex rooms across the street for the same price as the main hotel.
$$ Hotel Margaret offers few frills and 12 simple rooms at a fair price (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, north of Piazza Repubblica at Via Antonio Salandra 6, fourth floor, tel. 06-482-4285, www.hotelmargaret.net, info@hotelmargaret.net).
These good-value places cluster around the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Most are a five-minute walk from the Cavour Metro stop.
$$$$ Hotel Raffaello, with its courteous and professional staff, offers 41 rooms in a grand 19th-century building on the edge of the Monti district. This formal hotel comes with generous public spaces and a breakfast room fit for aristocrats (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via Urbana 3, tel. 06-488-4342, www.hotelraffaello.it, info@hotelraffaello.it).
$$ Domus Nova Bethlem, run by the Oblate Sisters of Baby Jesus, is a spacious, pristine, and institutional-feeling hotel. The 38 high-ceilinged rooms are modest yet classy, and guests have access to a peaceful and leafy courtyard garden (air-con, elevator, expensive pay parking, Via Cavour 85A, tel. 06-4782-4414, www.domusnovabethlem.it, info@domusnovabethlem.it).
$$ Gulliver’s Lodge has four colorful rooms on the ground floor of a large, secure building. Although it’s on a busy street, the rooms are quiet. The public spaces are few, but in-room extras like DVD players (and DVDs, including my Italy shows) make it a fine home base (RS%, price includes small breakfast at nearby bar, cash only, air-con, Via Cavour 101, tel. 06-9727-3787, www.gulliverslodge.com, info@gulliverslodge.com, Maria Ines and Monica).
$$ Hotel Montreal is a basic, three-star place with 22 small rooms on a big, noisy street a block southeast of Santa Maria Maggiore (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, small garden terrace; Via Carlo Alberto 4, 1 block from Metro: Vittorio Emanuele, 3 blocks from Termini train station, tel. 06-445-7797, www.hotelmontrealroma.it, info@hotelmontrealroma.it, Fabrizio).
$ Suore di Santa Elisabetta is a heavenly Polish-run convent with a serene garden, roof terrace with grand views, and 37 rooms. All doubles have twin beds. Often booked long in advance, with such tranquility it’s a super value (family rooms, cheaper rooms with shared bath, fans but no air-con, elevator for top floors, guest kitchen, Wi-Fi in lounge only, 23:00 curfew; a block southwest of Santa Maria Maggiore at Via dell’Olmata 9, Metro: Termini or Vittorio Emanuele; tel. 06-488-8271, www.csse-roma.com, select “Casa per ferie” for English, ist.it.s.elisabetta@libero.it).
The cheapest beds in town are beyond Termini train station, to the northeast: Standing so that the tracks dead-end into your back, this neighborhood is to your right (Metro: Termini). The streets quiet down a block or so away from the station, and these hotels feel plenty safe. The Splashnet launderette/Internet café is handy (offers full-service laundry, daily 8:30-23:00, just off Via Milazzo at Via Varese 33, tel. 06-4470-3523).
$$ Hotel Select Garden, a modern and comfortable 21-room hotel run by the cheery Picca family, boasts lively modern art adorning the walls and a beautiful lemon-tree garden. It’s a safe, tranquil, and welcoming refuge just a couple of blocks from the train station (RS%, air-con, Via V. Bachelet 6, tel. 06-445-6383, www.hotelselectgarden.com, info@hotelselectgarden.com, Cristina and Maurizia).
$ The Beehive gives vagabonds—old and young—a cheap, clean, and comfy home in Rome. Thoughtfully and creatively run by friendly Americans Steve and Linda and their hardworking staff, the place offers six great-value artsy-mod double rooms with shared baths, and an eight-bed dorm in the main building (no air-con, only fans). Their nearby annexes have similar style and several rooms with private baths (breakfast extra, air-con extra, private garden terrace, dinner sometimes available, 2 blocks from Termini train station at Via Marghera 8, tel. 06-4470-4553, www.the-beehive.com, info@the-beehive.com). They’re also a good resource for apartments across the city (www.cross-pollinate.com).
$ Hotel Sileo, with shiny chandeliers in dim rooms, is a homey little place renting 10 basic rooms. It’s worn, but run with warmth by friendly Alessandro and Maria Savioli (who don’t speak English) and their daughter Anna (who does); their other daughter, Stefania, painted the wall murals (RS%, air-con, elevator, Via Magenta 39, fourth floor, tel. 06-445-0246, www.hotelsileo.com, info@hotelsileo.com).
$ Hotel Robinson is just a few steps from the station, but tucked away from the commotion. Set on an interior courtyard, it has 20 small and simple rooms—handsomely decorated with dark-wood accents—that are a good value (RS%, breakfast extra, air-con extra, Via Milazzo 3, tel. 06-491-423, www.hotelrobinsonrome.com, info@hotelrobinsonrome.com).
¢ Yellow Hostel rents 220 beds to 18- through 45-year-olds only (I’d skip their 16 private rooms, which are basic and overpriced). Hip yet sane, it’s well-run with fine facilities, including a café/late-night bar (reserve online—no telephone reservations accepted, breakfast extra, elevator, no curfew, 6 blocks from station, just past Via Vicenza at Via Palestro 44, tel. 06-446-3554, www.yellowhostel.com, questions@the-yellow.com).
¢ Funny Palace Hostel—adjacent to Splashnet and run by the same entrepreneurial owner, Mabri—rents dorm beds in quiet four-person rooms and 18 stark-but-clean private rooms. It’s far less convivial than Yellow Hostel, but suitable for introverts (cash only, includes breakfast in café, elevator, guest kitchen, reception in the launderette—described earlier, Via Varese 33, tel. 06-4470-3523, www.hostelfunny.com, info@funnyhostel.com).
This area is central, so you’ll find these hotels are a short walk from the Colosseum and Roman Forum, as well as restaurants and shopping in the Monti district (see here and here). All except Hotel Lancelot are within a 10-minute walk of the Cavour Metro stop.
$$$$ Hotel Lancelot is a comfortable refuge—a 60-room hotel with an elegant feel at a fair price. Located in a pleasant, low-key residential neighborhood a 10-minute stroll from the Colosseum, it’s quiet and safe, with a shady courtyard, restaurant, bar, and tiny communal sixth-floor terrace. It’s well-run by the Khan family, who serve a good €25 dinner—a tasty way to connect with your hotel neighbors and the friendly staff (in high season only). No wonder it’s popular with returning guests (family rooms, some view rooms, air-con, elevator, wheelchair-accessible, cheap parking, 10-minute walk behind Colosseum near San Clemente Church at Via Capo d’Africa 47, tel. 06-7045-0615, www.lancelothotel.com, info@lancelothotel.com). Faris and Lubna speak the Queen’s English.
$$$$ Nerva Boutique Hotel is a snazzy slice of tranquility with 20 small, overpriced (but often discounted) rooms. It sits on a quiet, ideally located side street that faces the Roman Forum and backs onto the enjoyable Monti neighborhood (RS%—use code “RICKSTEVES,” air-con, elevator, Via Tor de’ Conti 3, tel. 06-678-1835, www.hotelnerva.com, info@hotelnerva.com, Antonio and Paolo).
$$$ Nicolas Inn Bed & Breakfast, a delightful little four-room place with thoughtful touches, is spacious and bright, and right on busy Via Cavour. It’s run by François and American expat Melissa, who make you feel like you have caring friends in Rome (RS%, cash only, air-con, Via Cavour 295, mobile 328-555-3004, www.nicolasinn.com, info@nicolasinn.com).
$$ Hotel Paba is cozy, chocolate-box-tidy, and lovingly cared for by Alberta Castelli. It’s just two blocks from the Forum. You’ll take a vintage elevator to reach the seven rooms. Although some overlook busy Via Cavour, it’s quiet enough (RS%, email reservations preferred, big beds, breakfast served in room, air-con, elevator, Via Cavour 266, second floor, tel. 06-4782-4902, www.hotelpaba.com, info@hotelpaba.com).
$$ Hotel Antica Locanda is a gem on a small street in the heart of the Monti neighborhood. While there are four floors and no elevator, the 10 rooms—each named for a composer or an artist—come with romantically rustic, stylish furnishings. The rooftop terrace is great for sunbathing or relaxing with a sunset drink (air-con, no elevator, Via del Boschetto 84, tel. 06-484-894, http://anticalocandaroma.it, anticalocandaroma@gmail.com).
$$ Casa Il Rosario is a peaceful, well-run Dominican convent renting 40 rooms with monastic simplicity to both pilgrims and tourists in a steep but pleasant corner of the Monti neighborhood. Doubles have two single beds which can be pushed together (cheaper single rooms with shared bath, reserve several months in advance, some rooms with air-con and others with fans, elevator, small garden and rooftop terrace, 23:00 curfew, near bottom of Via Nazionale at Via Sant’Agata dei Goti 10, bus #40 or #170 from Termini, tel. 06-679-2346, www.casailrosarioroma.it, irodopre@tin.it).
$ Hotel Rosetta, a homey and family-run pensione in the same building as Nicolas Inn, rents 15 simple rooms. It’s pretty minimal, with no lounge and no breakfast, but its great location makes it a fine budget option (air-con, up one flight of stairs, Via Cavour 295, tel. 06-4782-3069, www.rosettahotel.com, info@rosettahotel.com, Antonietta and Francesca).
Winding, narrow lanes filled with foot traffic and lined with small shops and tiny trattorias...this part of Rome still feels like a village. As in a real village, buses and taxis are the only practical way to connect with other destinations. The atmosphere doesn’t come cheap, but this is a great place to be—especially at night, when Romans and tourists gather in the floodlit piazzas.
This neighborhood has two main transportation hubs: Piazza delle Cinque Lune (just north of Piazza Navona) has a TI, a taxi stand, and (just around the corner) handy buses #81 and #87. Largo Argentina has buses to almost everywhere, a taxi stand, and the tram to Trastevere (#8). Peruse my recommended buses on here, and you’ll likely find a few (#81, #87, #492, and others) that stop near your hotel.
There are two Co-op supermarkets in the neighborhood. One is a half-block from the Pantheon toward Piazza Navona (daily until 22:00, Via Giustiniani 18b). A larger Co-op, with a good bakery and sandwich section, is three blocks away (daily until 21:00, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 42).
Each of these places is romantically set deep in the tangled back streets near the idyllic Campo de’ Fiori and, for many, worth the extra money. This area is connected to Termini Station by bus along Via Nazionale (#40 or #64). From the airport, consider taking the regional train to Trastevere Station and then the #8 tram to Largo Argentina.
$$$$ Relais Teatro Argentina, a six-room gem, is steeped in tasteful old-Rome elegance, but has all the modern comforts. It’s cozy and quiet like a B&B and couldn’t be more centrally located (air-con, 3 flights of stairs, breakfast in room or on balcony, Via del Sudario 35, tel. 06-9893-1617, www.relaisteatroargentina.com, info@relaisteatroargentina.com, kind Paolo).
$$$$ Casa di Santa Brigida overlooks the elegant Piazza Farnese. With soft-spoken sisters gliding down polished hallways and pearly gates instead of doors, this lavish 20-room convent makes exhaust-stained Roman tourists feel like they’ve died and gone to heaven. If you don’t need a double bed or a TV in your room, it’s worth the splurge—especially if you luxuriate in its ample public spaces or on its lovely roof terrace (book well in advance, air-con, elevator, tasty €25 dinners, roof garden, plush library, Via di Monserrato 54, tel. 06-6889-2596, www.brigidine.org, piazzafarnese@brigidine.org, many of the sisters are from India and speak English—pray you get to work with wonderful sister Gertrude).
$$$ Hotel Smeraldo, with 66 rooms, is clean and a reasonable deal in a good location. Sixteen of the rooms are in an annex across the street, but everyone has breakfast in the main building (air-con, elevator, roof terrace, midway between Campo de’ Fiori and Largo Argentina at Via dei Chiavari 20, tel. 06-687-5929, www.smeraldoroma.com, info@smeraldoroma.com, Massimo and Walter).
$$ Hotel Arenula, with 50 tired rooms, is in Rome’s old Jewish ghetto. Although it has the ambience of a gym and attracts lots of students, it’s in the thick of old Rome (family rooms, air-con, no elevator, down side street from the fountain in the park on Via Arenula, Via Santa Maria de’ Calderari 47, tel. 06-687-9454, www.hotelarenula.com, info@hotelarenula.com).
These places are buried in the pedestrian-friendly heart of ancient Rome, each within about a five-minute walk of the Pantheon. They’re an easy walk from many sights, but are a bit distant from the major public transportation arteries (though buses do run nearby). To get close, arrive and depart by taxi.
$$$$ Hotel Nazionale, a four-star landmark, is a 16th-century palace that shares a well-policed square with the Italian Parliament building. Its 104 rooms are accentuated by lush public spaces, fancy bars, a uniformed staff, and a marble-floored breakfast room. It’s a big, stuffy hotel, but it’s a worthy splurge if you want security, comfort, and the heart of Rome at your doorstep (RS%—use code “RICK,” family rooms, air-con, elevator, Piazza Montecitorio 131, tel. 06-695-001, www.hotelnazionale.it, info@hotelnazionale.it).
$$$$ Albergo Santa Chiara, in the old center, is big, solid, and hotelesque. Flavia, Silvio, and their fine staff offer marbled elegance (but basic furniture) and all the hotel services. Its ample public lounges are dressy and professional, and its 96 rooms are quiet and spacious (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, behind the Pantheon at Via di Santa Chiara 21, tel. 06-687-2979, www.albergosantachiara.com, info@albergosantachiara.com).
$$$$ Hotel Portoghesi is a classic hotel with 27 colorful rooms in the medieval heart of Rome. It’s peaceful, quiet, and comes with a delightful roof terrace—though you pay for the location (family rooms, breakfast on roof, air-con, elevator, Via dei Portoghesi 1, tel. 06-686-4231, www.hotelportoghesiroma.it, info@hotelportoghesiroma.it).
$$$$ Hotel Due Torri, hiding out on a tiny quiet street, is beautifully located. It feels professional yet homey, with an accommodating staff, generous public spaces, and 26 rooms (the ones on upper floors are smaller but have views). While the location and lounge are great, the rooms are overpriced unless you score a discount (family rooms, air-con, elevator, a block off Via della Scrofa at Vicolo del Leonetto 23, tel. 06-6880-6956, www.hotelduetorriroma.com, info@hotelduetorriroma.com, Cinzia).
$$$$ Hotel San Carlo is buried in the thick of Rome’s bustling pedestrian-friendly “shopping triangle” and conveniently close to the Spagna Metro stop. Thoughtfully run by Alberto and his staff, its 47 rooms—connected by a treehouse floor plan—provide a tranquil haven (RS%—use code “ricksteves,” air-con, elevator, Via delle Carrozze 92—see map on here, tel. 06-678-4548, www.hotelsancarloroma.com, info@hotelsancarloroma.com).
Colorful and genuine, with uneven cobbles and remnants of its tumbledown past, Trastevere is a treat for travelers looking for a more residential, bohemian atmosphere. The heart of Rome and its ancient ruins are just across the river, and tram #8 makes getting there and back a snap. Convenient bus #23 runs to the Vatican area, bus #H runs direct to Termini (none on Sun), and tram #3 goes to the Colosseum. From the airport, you can reach these listings by taking the regional train to Trastevere train station, and the #8 tram downhill from there.
$$$$ Residenza Arco dei Tolomei is your most poetic Trastevere experience imaginable, with six small, unique, antique-filled rooms, some boasting fragrant balconies. In this quiet and elegant setting, you can pretend you’re visiting aristocratic relatives (reserve well in advance, from Piazza Piscinula a block up Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei at #27, tel. 06-5832-0819, www.bbarcodeitolomei.com, info@bbarcodeitolomei.com, Marco and Gianna Paola).
$$$$ Hotel Santa Maria sits like a lazy hacienda in the midst of Trastevere. Surrounded by a medieval skyline, you’ll feel as if you’re on some romantic stage set. Its 20 small but well-equipped, air-conditioned rooms—former cells in a cloister—are mostly on the ground floor, as are a few suites for up to six people. The rooms circle a gravelly courtyard of orange trees and stay-awhile patio furniture (RS%, family rooms, email reservations preferred, free loaner bikes, face church on Piazza Maria Trastevere and go right down Via della Fonte d’Olio 50 yards to Vicolo del Piede 2, tel. 06-589-4626, www.hotelsantamariatrastevere.it, info@hotelsantamaria.info).
$$$$ Hotel San Francesco, big and blocky yet welcoming, stands practically and efficiently at the far end of all the Trastevere action. It rents 24 trim rooms and comes with an inviting roof terrace. It’s fine, but a bit more distant than the others listed here (email reservations preferred, air-con, elevator, Via Jacopa de’ Settesoli 7, tel. 06-5830-0051, www.hotelsanfrancesco.net, hotelsanfrancesco@gmail.com).
$$$ Arco del Lauro B&B rents six tight, whitewashed, straightforward rooms around a dim, quiet back courtyard. Consider it the less expensive version of the Residenza Arco dei Tolomei, which is upstairs. The lower prices make up for the lack of public spaces and mostly offsite management (one family room, cash only, includes small breakfast at nearby café, air-con, from Piazza Piscinula a block up Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei at #29, tel. 06-9784-0350, www.arcodellauro.it, info@arcodellauro.it, Lorenza and Daniela).
Sleeping near the Vatican costs a little more, but some enjoy calling this relaxed, residential neighborhood home. The tree-lined streets are wider than in the historical center, so it feels less claustrophobic. Although it’s handy to the Vatican, everything else is a long way away. Fortunately, it’s well-served by public transit, especially the Metro (line A). Most are within a 10-minute walk of either the Cipro or Ottaviano Metro stops.
$$$$ Hotel Alimandi Vaticano, facing the Vatican Museums, is beautifully designed. Run by the Alimandi family (Enrico, Irene, and Germano), it features four stars, 24 spacious rooms, and all the modern comforts you can imagine (air-con, elevator, Viale Vaticano 99, tel. 06-3974-5562, www.alimandi.com, alimandivaticano@alimandi.com).
$$$$ Family-run Hotel dei Consoli, with 28 rooms, is a lesser value pleasantly located on a side street. In warm months, breakfast is served on its leafy rooftop terrace, with a view to St. Peter’s—a nice way to start the day (air-con, elevator, Via Varrone 2D, tel. 06-6889-2972, www.hoteldeiconsoli.com, info@hoteldeiconsoli.com, friendly Laura and mom Amalia).
$$$ Hotel Gerber, set in a quiet residential area, is family-run with 27 thoughtfully decorated rooms—some chic and modern, others polished and businesslike (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, small leafy terrace; from Lepanto Metro station, go one block down Via M. Colonna and turn right to Via degli Scipioni 241; tel. 06-321-6485, www.hotelgerber.it, info@hotelgerber.it, Piero and Simonetta).
$$$ Hotel Museum is located steps from the Vatican Museums and run by another branch of the entrepreneurial Alimandi family—Paolo, Luigi, Marta, and Barbara. It has 27 modest but comfortable rooms and large public spaces, including a piano lounge, pool table, and rooftop terrace where the grand buffet breakfast is served (air-con, elevator, down the stairs directly in front of Vatican Museums, Via Tunisi 8, tel. 06-3972-3941, www.hotelmuseum.it, info@hotelmuseum.it).
$$$ Hearth Hotel, a block from the Vatican wall, has 22 small, modern, efficient, and characterless rooms (RS%—use code “rick steves,” air-con, elevator, Via Santamaura 2, tel. 06-3903-8383, www.hearthhotel.com, info@hearthhotel.com).
$$ Casa Valdese is a well-managed, Protestant church-run hotel that’s a good value and feels a bit institutional. Its 33 recently renovated—but basic—rooms come with the bonus of two breezy, communal roof terraces with incredible views (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, Via Alessandro Farnese 18, Metro: Lepanto, tel. 06-321-5362, www.casavaldeseroma.it, reception@casavaldeseroma.it, Matteo).
$$ Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci is simple and efficient, housing pilgrims and secular tourists just a five-minute walk south of the Vatican in a dull, high-rise residential zone. Its 54 utilitarian rooms are mostly twin-bedded. Reserve at least three months in advance (air-con, elevator; take bus #64 from Termini train station to San Pietro train station, then walk 100 yards north along Via della Stazione di San Pietro to Piazza Santa Maria alle Fornaci 27; or from the airport, take the train to Trastevere Station, then transfer to San Pietro Station; tel. 06-3936-7632, www.santamariafornaci.com, Carmine).