Map: Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood
NORTH ROME: NEAR THE SPANISH STEPS AND ARA PACIS
Via della Croce Stand-Up Food Crawl
ANCIENT ROME: NEAR THE COLOSSEUM AND FORUM
Between the Colosseum and St. Peter-in-Chains Church
Map: Restaurants near Termini Station
Around Recommended Via Firenze Area Hotels
Handy Lunch Places near Piazza Risorgimento
Other Options in the Vatican Area
Romans take great pleasure in dining well. Embrace this passion over a multicourse meal at an outdoor table, watching a parade of passersby while you sip wine with loved ones.
In ancient times, the dinner party was the center of Roman social life. It was a luxurious affair, set in the triclinium (formal dining room). Guest lists were small (3-9 people), and the select few reclined on couches during the exotic multicourse meal. Today the couches are gone, and the fare may not include jellyfish, boiled tree fungi, or flamingo, but the cucina Romana influence remains. It’s fair to say that while French cuisine makes an art of the preparation, Italian (and Roman) cuisine is simpler and all about the ingredients.
Roman meals are still lengthy social occasions. Simple, fresh, seasonal ingredients dominate the dishes. The cucina is robust, strongly flavored, and unpretentious—much like the people who’ve created it over the centuries. It is said that Roman cooking didn’t come out of emperors’ or popes’ kitchens, but from the cucina povera—the home cooking of the common people. This may explain the Romans’ fondness for meats known as the quinto quarto (“fifth quarter”), such as tripe, tail, brain, and pigs’ feet, as well as their interest in natural preservatives like chili peppers and garlic.
Rome belongs to the warm, southern region of Lazio, which produces a rich variety of flavorful vegetables and fruit that are the envy of American supermarkets. Rome’s proximity to the Mediterranean also allows for a great variety of seafood.
I rank restaurants from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For general advice on eating in Italy, including details on pricing, ordering, dining, and tipping in restaurants, where to find budget meals, picnicking help, and Italian cuisine and beverages—including wine, see here.
Kitchens close at most restaurants between lunch and dinner; if it’s a quality restaurant, it won’t reopen before 19:00. If a smaller restaurant is booked up later in the evening (from 20:30 or so), they may accommodate walk-ins if you’re willing to eat quickly.
Choosing Restaurants: I’ve listed restaurants that I enjoy. Many are in characteristic and touristy (and therefore pricey) areas such as Trastevere, Piazza Navona, and Campo de’ Fiori. Others are tucked away from the tourist crush.
I’m impressed by how small the price difference can be between a mediocre Roman restaurant and a fine one. You can pay about 20 percent more for double the quality. If I had $100 for three meals in Rome, I’d spend $50 for one and $25 each for the other two, rather than $33 on all three. For splurge meals, I’d consider Gabriello, Fortunato, and Taverna Trilussa (in that order; all described later).
Rome’s fabled squares (most notably Piazza Navona, near the Pantheon, and Campo de’ Fiori) are lined with the outdoor tables of touristy restaurants with enticing menus and formal-vested waiters. The atmosphere is super romantic. I, too, like the idea of dining under floodlit monuments, amid a constantly flowing parade of people. But you’ll likely be surrounded by tourists and hawkers, and awkward interactions can kill the ambience...leaving you with just a forgettable and overpriced meal. Restaurants in these areas are notorious for surprise charges, forgettable food, microwaved ravioli, and bad service.
I enjoy the view by savoring just a drink or dessert on a famous square, but I dine with locals on nearby low-rent streets, where the proprietor needs to serve a good-value meal and nurture a local following to stay in business. If you’re set on eating—or just drinking and snacking—on a famous piazza, you don’t need a guidebook listing to choose a spot; enjoy the ritual of slowly circling the square, observing both the food and the people eating it, and sit where the view and menu appeal to you. (And pizza is probably your best value and least risky bet.)
The Aperitivo Tradition: For a budget, light meal, consider partaking in an aperitivo buffet. Bars all over town—especially in Monti—serve up an enticing buffet of small dishes, from about 18:00 to 21:00, and anyone buying a drink (generally €8-12) gets to eat “for free.” Some places limit you to one plate; others allow refills. Either way, if you want a quick, light dinner with a drink, it’s a great deal.
Picnicking: Another cheap way to eat is to assemble a picnic and dine with Rome as your backdrop. Buy ingredients for your picnic at one of Rome’s open-air produce markets (mornings only; see here), an alimentari (corner grocery store), a rosticcerie (cheap food to go), or a supermercato, such as Conad or Co-op. You’ll find handy late-night supermarkets near the Pantheon (Via Giustiniani), Spanish Steps (Via Vittoria), Trevi Fountain (Via del Bufalo), and Campo de’ Fiori (Via di Monte della Farina). Note that Rome discourages people from picnicking or drinking at historic monuments (such as on the Spanish Steps) in the old center. Technically violators can be fined, although it rarely happens. You’ll be OK if you eat with a view rather than on the view.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Trastevere” map, here.)
Restaurants line the streets of colorful Trastevere. It’s a favorite dining neighborhood for both Romans and tourists—more rustic than the downtown zone, but just a short walk across the river. Go beyond the central square, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, into the back streets and you’ll find places that serve with the most sincerity and charm. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$$ Taverna Trilussa is your best bet for dining well in Trastevere. Brothers Massimo and Maurizio offer quality without pretense. With a proud 100-year-old tradition, this place has the right mix of style and informality. The service is fun-loving (they’re happy to let you split plates into smaller portions to enjoy a family-style meal), yet professional. The menu celebrates local classics and seasonal specials—as well as their award-winning pasta amatriciana—and comes with a big wine selection. The spacious dining hall is strewn with eclectic Roman souvenirs. Outdoors, Trilussa has an actual hedged-in terrace rather than just tables jumbled together on the sidewalk (dinner only, Mon-Sat from 19:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, Via del Politeama 23, tel. 06-581-8918, www.tavernatrilussa.it).
$$$ Osteria La Gensola, a seafood restaurant, is a good place to indulge (they also have Roman classics on the menu). The interior (no outside seating), which feels like a rustic yet sophisticated living room, is pleasantly homey (daily 13:00-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, Piazza della Gensola 15, tel. 06-581-6312, www.osterialagensola.it).
$$ Trattoria da Lucia is your basic old-school Trastevere dining experience, and has been family-run since before World War II. The specialty is spaghetti alla Gricia, with pancetta (Tue-Sun 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Mon and much of Aug, cash only, evocative outdoor or comfy indoor seating—but avoid back room, just off Via del Mattonato at Vicolo del Mattonato 2, tel. 06-580-3601).
$$ Osteria Ponte Sisto, by the river, has a more touristy, old-school feel with nice place settings, white tablecloths, and traditional Roman and Neapolitan cuisine (Thu-Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:30, closed Wed, reservations smart, 100 yards in front of the bridge at Via di Ponte Sisto 80, tel. 06-588-3411, www.osteriapontesisto.com, Oliviero).
$$ Pizzeria “Ai Marmi” is a noisy festival of pizza. Tight marble-slab tables (hence the nickname “the Morgue”) fill the seating area in front of the oven and pizza-assembly line. It’s a classic Roman scene whether you enjoy the chaos inside, sit at a sidewalk table, or take the famously good, thin, and crispy €8-9 pizza home. They also serve fried cod, rice balls with mozzarella (supplì), and bean dishes. Expect brusque service and a long line between 20:00 and 22:00 (Thu-Tue 18:30 until very late, closed Wed, cash only, tram #8 from Piazza Venezia to first stop over bridge, just beyond Piazza Sonnino at Viale di Trastevere 53, tel. 06-580-0919).
$$ Pizzeria Dar Poeta, tucked in a back alley and a hit with local students, cranks out €9 wood-fired pizzas and €8 calzones. These pizzas are easily splittable and, if you’re extra hungry, pay an extra euro for pizza alta (thicker crust). Choose between their sloppy, cramped interior or the lively tables outside on the cobblestones (daily 12:00-24:00, call to reserve or expect a wait, 50 yards directly in front of Santa Maria della Scala Church at Vicolo del Bologna 45, tel. 06-588-0516).
(See “Jewish Ghetto Walk” map, here.)
The Jewish Ghetto sits just across the river from Trastevere (see map on here). The main drag, Via del Portico d’Ottavia, is lined with busy, traditional, touristic kosher restaurants with fine outdoor tables. It’s tempting to grab a table (or picnic on a bench) here to watch the action. Pizzeria Franco e Cristina, which sells slices and simple pasta dishes by weight, has casual outdoor tables right in the thick of the main street action. Eating in the Ghetto goes well with my self-guided tour of the neighborhood (see here).
Here are some of the specialties you may find on the menu. For more on Italian food, including salumi, cheeses, pizza, and pasta, see here.
Antipasto misto: A plate of marinated or grilled vegetables (eggplant, artichokes, peppers, mushrooms), cured meats, cheeses, or seafood (anchovies, octopus).
Bruschetta: Toasted bread brushed with olive oil and garlic, topped with chopped tomatoes, mushrooms, or other tidbits.
Fritti: Fried snacks that have been either battered or breaded—often olives stuffed with meat, potato croquettes, and mozzarella cheese. Other classic fritti are supplí (rice balls with tomato sauce and mozzarella) and fiori di zucca (squash blossoms filled with mozzarella and anchovies).
Prosciutto e melone: Cantaloupe wrapped in thin-sliced ham.
Bucatini all’amatriciana: Thin pasta tubes with a sauce of tomatoes, onion, pancetta, and pecorino cheese.
Gnocchi alla romana: Small, flattened dumplings made from semolina (not potatoes) and baked with butter and cheese.
Penne all’arrabbiata: Spicy tomato sauce with chili peppers (pepperoncini) and garlic over penne.
Rigatoni con la pajata: Pasta topped with a stew of calf intestines.
Spaghetti alla carbonara: Eggs, pancetta or guaniciale (cured pork cheek), cheese (pecorino romano or parmigiano reggiano), and black pepper over pasta.
Spaghetti alle vongole veraci: Pasta served with small clams in the shell sautéed with white wine and herbs.
Stracciatella alla romana: Meat broth with whipped eggs, topped with parmesan.
Abbacchio alla scottadito: Baby lamb chops grilled and eaten as finger food.
Anguillette in umido: Stewed baby eels from Lake Bracciano.
Coda alla vaccinara: Oxtail braised with garlic, wine, tomato, and celery.
Filetti di baccalà: Fried salt cod (like fish-and-chips minus the chips).
Involtini di vitello al sugo: Veal cutlets rolled with prosciutto, celery, and cheese in a tomato sauce.
Saltimbocca alla romana: “Jump-in-the-mouth”—thinly sliced veal layered with prosciutto and sage, then lightly fried.
Trippa alla romana: Tripe braised with onions, carrots, and mint.
You may want to order a side dish if your second course is not served with a vegetable. Note that if you order a salad, olive oil and wine vinegar are the only dressings.
Carciofi: Artichokes served either alla romana (simmered with garlic and mint) or alla giudia (flattened and fried).
Fave al guanciale: Fava beans simmered with cured pork cheek and onion.
Misticanza: Mixed green salad of arugula (rucola) and curly endive (puntarelle) with anchovies.
Dessert can be a seasonal fruit, such as fragole (strawberries) or pesche (peaches), or even cheese, such as pecorino romano (made from ewe’s milk) or caciotta romana (combination of ewe’s and cow’s milk).
Bignè: Cream puff-like pastries filled with zabaione (egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine).
Crostata di ricotta: A cheesecake-like dessert with ricotta, sweet Marsala wine, cinnamon, and bits of chocolate.
Grattachecca: Sweetened shaved ice. Vendors at little booths scrape shavings off ice blocks, then flavor them with syrups, such as limoncocco (lemon and coconut with fresh chunks of coconut).
Tartufo: Rich dark-chocolate gelato ball with a cherry inside, sometimes served con panna (with whipped cream).
Roman-style pizza is made with a very thin and crispy dough called scrocchiarella (thinner and less chewy than Neapolitan-style pizza). In Rome, pizza bianca (white pizza) can mean a pizza made without tomato sauce, but can also simply mean a chunk of flat, crispy bread, or a sandwich made with that bread (similar to what’s called a panino in other parts of Italy).
Rome is located in the region of Lazio, which produces several pleasant white wines and a few reds. Frascati, probably the best-known wine of the region, is an inexpensive dry white made from trebbiano (from the hills just south of Rome) and malvasia grapes. Castelli Romani, light and fairly dry, is made from trebbiano grapes and is similar to Marino, Colli Albani, and Velletri wines. Torre Ercolana is a dense, balanced, medium-bodied red made from the regional cesanese grape, as well as cabernet and merlot (known as Lazio’s best-quality red, aged at least five years).
$$ Sora Margherita, hiding on a cluttered square, has been a rustic neighborhood favorite since 1927. Amid picturesque commotion, guests chow down on basic old-time Roman and Jewish dishes. Eat here for the experience rather than fine food. Reservations are strongly advised. While lunch (12:30-15:00) is open, for dinner there are two seatings: 20:00 and 21:30 (closed Sun and second half of Aug; just south of Via del Portico d’Ottavia at Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30—look for the red curtain, tel. 06-687-4216, www.soramargherita.com).
$$$ Beppe e i Suoi Formaggi is entirely dedicated to the fine wines, cold cuts, pastas—and above all the cheeses—of the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Its sleek, woody, wine-crate ambience is designed for foodies with money who are interested in the best of that region’s organic cuisine (€28 cheese plate for two, €20 daily specials, wine by the glass, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, closed Sun, Santa Maria del Pianto 11, tel. 06-6819-2210, www.beppeeisuoiformaggi.it).
$ A Fast Lunch on Via di Santa Maria del Pianto: The small street leading to the main drag is lined with fast, casual eateries. Kosher Bistrot Caffè is delightfully situated with outdoor tables overlooking the action (outside dining only; salads, sandwiches, falafel dishes; lunch and dinner, closed Sat). Just beyond that (with less of a view) is a kosher burger joint (Fonzie) and a “fast kosher kebab” shop (Yesh). The Ghetto bakery is just across the way.
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
I’ve listed the restaurants in this central area based on which landmark they’re closest to: Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain, or the Pantheon itself.
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
By day, Campo de’ Fiori hosts a colorful fruit-and-veggies market (with an increasing number of tourist knickknacks; Mon-Sat until around 13:30, closed Sun). Combined with a sandwich and a sweet from Forno, the bakery in the west corner of the square (behind the fountain), you can assemble a nice picnic.
In the evening, Campo de’ Fiori offers a characteristic setting—once romantic, but now overrun with students and tourists out drinking. The square is lined with popular and interesting bars, pizzerias, and small restaurants—all great for people-watching over a glass of wine. Later at night, any charm is smothered by a younger clubbing crowd, but romance lives on the nearby quieter streets.
$$ Enoteca L’Angolo Divino is an inviting little wine bar run by Massimo Crippa, a sommelier who beautifully describes a fine array of wines along with the best accompanying meats, cheeses, and pastas. With tiny tables, a tiny menu, great wines by the glass, intriguing walls of wine bottles, smart advice, and more locals than tourists, this place can leave you with a lifelong memory (daily 17:00-24:00, also Tue-Sat 11:00-14:00, a block off Campo de’ Fiori at Via dei Balestrari 12, tel. 06-686-4413).
$ Forno Roscioli is an attractive upscale bakery with a few stools, selling a tempting array of breads, pizzas, and pastries (Mon-Sat 7:00-19:30, Sun 8:00-18:00, Via dei Chiavari 34).
$$ Trattoria der Pallaro, an eccentric and well-worn eatery that has no menu, has a slogan: “Here, you’ll eat what we want to feed you.” Paola Fazi—with a towel wrapped around her head turban-style—and her gang dish up a five-course meal of homey Roman food. You have three menu choices: €25 for the works; €20 for appetizers, secondi, and dessert; or €16 for appetizers and pasta. Any option is filling and includes wine. While the service can be odd and the food is, let’s say...rustic, the experience is fun (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, reserve if dining after 20:00, cash only, indoor/outdoor seating on quiet square, a block south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, down Largo del Chiavari to Largo del Pallaro 15, tel. 06-6880-1488).
$ Filetti di Baccalà is a cheap and basic Roman classic, where nostalgic regulars cram in at wooden tables and savor €5 fried cod finger-food fillets and raw, slightly bitter puntarelle greens (slathered with anchovy sauce, available in spring and winter). Study what others are eating, and order from your grease-stained server by pointing at what you want. Sit in the fluorescently lit interior or try to grab a seat out on the little square, a quiet haven a block east of Campo de’ Fiori (Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00, closed Sun, Largo dei Librari 88, tel. 06-686-4018). If you’re not into greasy spoons, avoid this place.
$$ Open Baladin is a busy, modern brewpub featuring a few dozen Italian craft beers on tap and a menu of burgers, salads, and freshly cooked potato chips. As burger bars are trendy in Italy, prices are somewhat high. It’s a nice break if you’re parched and ready for pub grub (daily 12:00-24:00, Via degli Specchi 5, tel. 06-683-8989).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
Piazza Navona and the streets just to the west are jammed with an amazing array of restaurants. The places lining the piazza itself are traditional and touristy. Instead, survey the scene on the two streets heading west from the square. Here are my favorites in that zone:
$$ Vivi Bistrot is in the Museum of Rome building at the south end of Piazza Navona, with two delightful window tables overlooking the square. This cheery and modern little restaurant serves salads, pastas, and burger plates with a focus on organic ingredients (Tue-Sun 10:00-24:00, closed Mon, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 06-683-3779).
$$ Cul de Sac, a corridor-wide trattoria lined with wine bottles, is packed with an enthusiastic crowd enjoying a wide-ranging menu, from pasta to homemade pâté. They have fun sampler plates of salumi and cheese, good wines by the glass, and fine outdoor seating. It’s jammed with regulars, and they don’t take reservations—come early to avoid a wait (daily 12:00-24:00, a block off Piazza Navona on Piazza Pasquino 73, tel. 06-6880-1094).
$$ L’Insalata Ricca, a popular local chain, specializes in filling salads and also serves pasta and €12 meal deals. A small branch is at Piazza Pasquino 72 (tel. 06-6830-7881), and a more spacious and enjoyable location is a couple of blocks toward Largo Argentina, just across busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele (Largo dei Chiavari 85, tel. 06-6880-3656). Both are open daily 12:00-24:00.
$$ Ristorante and Bar del Fico is a sprawling, rustic-chic place with a split personality: The restaurant is a spacious, family-friendly, pizza-and-pasta type restaurant with an open kitchen and a fun energy (nightly from 19:00). The bar feels like a huge Italian saloon filled with young, in-the-know locals. It has a cool, outdoor scene and thumping music. Each evening (from 19:00 to 21:00), the bar puts out an appetizing buffet free for anyone buying a drink, and trendy young locals gather (3 blocks west of Piazza Navona at Via della Pace 34, tel. 06-6889-1373).
$$ Ristorante Pizzeria “da Francesco,” bustling and authentic, has a 50-year-old tradition, a hardworking young waitstaff, great indoor seating, and a few tables stretching along the quiet street. Their blackboard explains the daily specials (daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, Piazza del Fico 29, tel. 06-686-4009, www.dafrancesco.it). Reservations are required for evening seatings at 19:00, 20:30, or 22:00.
$$ Pizzeria da Baffetto is famous among visiting Italians and therefore generally comes with a ridiculous line. The pizzas are great, the service is surly, and the tables are tightly arranged amid the mishmash of sketches littering the walls. The pizza-assembly kitchen keeps things energetic, and the pizza oven keeps the main room warm. Streetside tables are less congested and sweaty, but also less memorable (daily 12:00-15:30 & 18:30-late, cash only, order “M” or “D”—medium or large, Via del Governo Vecchio 114, tel. 06-686-1617).
$$ Chiostro del Bramante (“Bramante’s Cloister”) is a museum café serving light lunches in a unique setting—overlooking the tranquil open-air chiostro. Gaze out as the Renaissance master Bramante brings symmetry to your meal. With not a hint of tourism, it’s a refined and elegant place, and fine for a predinner drink too. Enter just to the left of the church entrance and tell the ticket-window staff that you’re just going to the café (daily 10:00-20:00, meals served 12:00-15:00, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06-6880-9035).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
The streets surrounding the Trevi Fountain are littered with mediocre restaurants catering exclusively to tourists. Skip them and walk a few blocks away to one of these.
$$$ Hostaria Romana is a busy bistro with a hustling and fun-loving gang of waiters. The upstairs is a tight, tidy, glassed-in terrace, while the cellar has noisy walls graffitied by happy eaters. As its menu specializes in traditional Roman dishes, it’s a good place to try saltimbocca alla romana or bucatini all’amatriciana. Their €12 antipasti della casa plate, with a variety of vegetables and cheeses, makes a hearty start to your meal (Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:15-23:00, closed Sun and Aug, reservations smart, Via del Boccaccio 1—see map on here, walk along Via Rasella to reach the restaurant, tel. 06-474-5284, www.hostariaromana.it).
$$$ Assaggi d’Autore is an elegant, modern bistro (and bookshop), located two blocks away from the Trevi Fountain. Bookshelves decorate the homey interior, and plates are beautifully presented. Their weekday €10 lunch buffet is a good value in a fine setting (costs more on weekends). Their tiramisù is a hit (daily 8:00-23:00, Via dei Lucchesi 28, tel. 06-699-0949, Signor Paolo).
$$ L’Antica Birreria Peroni is Rome’s answer to a German beer hall. Serving hearty mugs of the local Peroni beer and lots of just plain fun beer-hall food and Italian classics, the place is a hit with Romans for a cheap night out (Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, closed Sun, midway between Trevi Fountain and Capitoline Hill, a block off Via del Corso at Via di San Marcello 19, tel. 06-679-5310).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
Eating on the square facing the Pantheon is a temptation, and I’d consider it just to relax and enjoy the Roman scene. But if you walk a block or two away, you’ll get less view and better value. Here are some suggestions:
$$$$ Ristorante da Fortunato is an Italian classic, with fresh flowers on the tables and white-coated, black-tie career waiters politely serving good meat and fish to politicians, foreign dignitaries, and well-heeled tourists with good taste. Peruse the photos of their famous visitors—everyone from Muammar Gaddafi and Prince Charles to Bill Clinton are pictured with the late Signore Fortunato, who started this restaurant in 1975 and was a master of simple edible elegance. (His son Jason now runs the show.) The outdoor seating is fine for people-watching, but the elegance is inside. For a dressy night out, this is a worthwhile splurge—reserve ahead (figure €50/person, daily 12:30-23:30, a block in front of the Pantheon at Via del Pantheon 55, tel. 06-679-2788, www.ristorantefortunato.it). The Fortunato Wine Bar next door is a classy place for a glass of fine wine with a plate of properly paired cold meats and cheeses.
$$ Enoteca Corsi, a wine shop that grew into a thriving restaurant, is a charming local scene with the family table in back, where the kids do their homework. The Paiella family serves straightforward, traditional cuisine to an appreciative crowd of office workers. The board lists daily specials (gnocchi on Thursday, fish on Friday, and so on). Friendly Manuela and her staff welcome eaters with €9 pastas, €13 main dishes, and fine wine at a third of the price you’d pay in normal restaurants—buy from their shop and pay a corking fee; this can be a good value. Show this book for a free glass of homemade limoncello for dessert (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30, Thu-Fri also 19:00-22:30, closed Sun, no reservations, a block toward the Pantheon from the Gesù Church at Via del Gesù 87, tel. 06-679-0821).
$$ Trattoria dal Cavalier Gino, tucked away on a tiny street behind the Parliament, has been a favorite since 1963. Photos on the wall recall the days when it was the haunt of big-time politicians. English-speaking siblings Carla and Fabrizio serve up traditional Roman favorites. Reserve ahead, even for lunch, as you’ll be packed in with savvy locals (Mon-Sat 13:00-14:45 & 20:00-22:30, closed Sun, cash only, behind Piazza del Parlamento and just off Via di Campo Marzio at Vicolo Rosini 4, tel. 06-687-3434).
$$$ Ristorante la Campana is a classic—an authentic slice of old Rome appreciated by well-dressed locals. Claiming a history dating to 1518, this place feels unchanged over the years. It serves typical Roman dishes and daily specials, plus it has a self-service antipasti buffet (Tue-Sun 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Mon, inside seating only, reserve for dinner, just off Via della Scrofa and Piazza Nicosia at Vicolo della Campana 18, tel. 06-687-5273, www.ristorantelacampana.com).
$$ Osteria delle Coppelle, a slapdash, trendy place, serves traditional dishes to a local crowd. It has a rustic interior and jumbled exterior seating, and a fun selection of €3 cicchetti (small plates) that lets you enjoy a variety of Roman dishes as tapas. They also have a much classier dining section in the back (daily 12:30-16:00 & 19:00-late, Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 06-4550-2826). On the same charming square, the more old-school Osteria da Mario, with classic tables inside or out, is also worth considering.
$$ Miscellanea is run by much-loved Miki, who’s on a mission to keep foreign students well-fed. He offers €4 sandwiches, pizza-like bruschetta, and a long list of hearty salads, along with pasta and other staples—it’s a good value for a cheap and filling dinner in a convenient location. Miki (and his son Romeo) often tosses in a fun little extra (like their “sexy wine”) if you have this book on the table (daily 10:00-24:00, just behind the Pantheon at Via della Palombella 37, tel. 06-6813-5318).
$$ Ginger is a crisp, modern restaurant one block from the Pantheon, with a spacious and bright interior and seating on a delightful square. The menu selection is healthy, organic, and a bit pricey. You’ll enjoy generous €15 plates of pasta, gourmet panini, and a huge selection of fruit and vegetable smoothies (daily 8:00-24:00, Piazza di S. Eustachio 54, tel. 06-6830-8559). A second location is four blocks in front of the Spanish Steps at Via Borgognona 43 (see map on here).
It’s fun to picnic with a view of the Pantheon. (Remember to be discreet.) Here are some options:
$ Frullati Pascucci, a hole-in-the-wall convenient for takeaway, has been making refreshing €4-5 fruit frullati and frappés (like smoothies and shakes), plus fruit salads, for more than 75 years. Add a €4 sandwich to make a healthy light meal (Mon-Sat 6:00-23:00, closed Sun, north of Largo Argentina at Via di Torre Argentina 20, tel. 06-686-4816).
For picnic goodies, try the Co-op supermarket. There’s one a half block from the Pantheon (daily 8:30-22:00, Via Giustiniani 18b) and another one three blocks away (daily until 21:00, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 42).
Several fine gelaterie are within three or four blocks of the Pantheon.
Crèmeria Monteforte is known for its traditional gelato and super-creamy sorbets (cremolati). The fruit flavors are especially refreshing—think gourmet slushies (closed Mon, faces the west side of the Pantheon at Via della Rotonda 22).
San Crispino serves small portions of tasty gourmet gelato. Because of their commitment to natural ingredients, the colors are muted; ice cream purists know that bright colors are artificial and used to attract children (a block in front of the Pantheon at Piazza della Maddalena 3).
Giolitti is Rome’s most famous and venerable ice-cream joint (although few would say it has the best gelato). Takeaway prices are reasonable, and it has elegant Old World seating (just off Piazza Colonna and Piazza Montecitorio at Via Uffici del Vicario 40).
Gelateria Vice might be the best of all. They use top-quality ingredients in innovative ways, and the flavors change with the seasons (around the northwest corner of Largo Argentina at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 96).
Gelateria Artigianale Corona feels like a time warp and is nothing fancy, but it’s got some of the finest homemade gelato in town, with an array of creative flavors (just south of Largo Argentina at Largo Arenula 27).
To locate these restaurants, see the “Dolce Vita Stroll” map on here. Another option in this area is Ginger, which has a second location here (see listing above, under “Close to the Pantheon”).
$$$ Ristorante il Gabriello is inviting and small—modern under medieval arches—and provides a peaceful and local-feeling respite from all the top-end fashion shops in the area. Claudio serves with charisma, while his brother Gabriello cooks creative Roman cuisine using fresh, organic products from his wife’s farm. Italians normally just trust their waiter and say, “Bring it on.” Tourists are understandably more cautious, but you can be trusting here. Invest €55—not including wine—in “Claudio’s Extravaganza,” created especially for my readers (not on the menu). Specify whether you’d prefer fish, meat, or both. (Be warned: Romans think raw shellfish is the ultimate in fine dining. If you don’t, make that clear.) While you’re likely to dine surrounded by my readers here (especially if eating before 21:00), the atmosphere is fun and convivial (dinner only, Mon-Sat 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reservations smart, air-con, dress respectfully—no shorts, 3 blocks from Spanish Steps at Via Vittoria 51, tel. 06-6994-0810, www.ilgabriello.com).
$$ Antica Enoteca, an upbeat, atmospheric 200-plus-year-old enoteca, has around 60 Italian-only wines by the glass. For a light and memorable lunch, enjoy a glass of their best wine at the bar (listed on a big blackboard) and split their €22 antipasti plate of veggies, salumi, and cheese. There’s a full menu of eating options, and the food comes with wonderful ambience both inside and out (daily 12:00-24:00, best to reserve for outdoor seating, Via della Croce 76B, tel. 06-679-0896).
$$$ Caffè Ciampini is delightfully set on a fine traffic-free square. The food is quite pricey and won’t win any awards—and you pay for the location—so I’d only stop here for a drink or dessert. Sit outside and people-watch amidst a professional Roman crowd. The cocktails come with a little tray of finger sandwiches and nuts; for some it’s a light and inexpensive meal (daily 8:30-20:30, later in summer, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, tel. 06-687-6606).
(See “Dolce Vita Stroll” map, here.)
Two blocks north of the Spanish Steps, Via della Croce is a fun street to graze for a light meal or snack. As you peruse this street from Via del Corso, you’ll pass many tempting $ places—both elegant and simple. Consider these enticing stops for a bite:
Grano Frutta e Farina (#49) sells hard-to-resist pizza by the weight. Consider a tasting plate with a tiny bit of each pizza.
Focacci Deli (#43) makes sandwiches on request. Choose from their long, enticing counter of meats and cheeses.
Antica Enoteca (#76, described above) is an inviting bar for a glass of wine in wonderful surroundings.
Salsamenteria F.lli Fabbi (#28) is a classic alimentari (corner grocery/deli). They’ll make a sandwich to your specs and price it by weight.
Venchi (#25) can make your gelato and chocolate dreams come true.
Pompi (#82), the self-proclaimed “kingdom of tiramisù,” features several flavors (classic, strawberry, pistachio, chocolate-banana, and more) in €4 portions.
Pastificio (#8) serves up two fresh €4 pasta dishes each day; a cup of water or wine is included if you eat at the stools along the wall.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
Within a block of the Colosseum and Forum, you’ll find convenient eateries catering to weary sightseers, most offering neither memorable food nor good value. To get your money’s worth, stick with one of my recommendations, even if it means a 10-minute walk from the ruins. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
Behind the Imperial Forums, nestled in the tight and cobbled lanes between Via Nazionale and Via Cavour, is the characteristic (and recently trendy) Monti neighborhood. It’s just a few steps farther from the ancient sites than the battery of forgettable touristy restaurants, but that extra effort opens up a world of characteristic dining experiences. From the Forum, head up Via Cavour and then left on Via dei Serpenti; the action centers on Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and nearby lanes. For more on this area, see here.
$$$ L’Asino d’Oro (“The Golden Donkey”) is a top choice for foodies in this neighborhood. Chef Lucio Sforza serves Umbrian cuisine with a creative twist—and mingles savory and sweet flavors to create a memorable meal. The service is crisp, the pasta is homemade, and the simple, modern space is filled with savvy diners (€16 fixed lunch menu, Tue-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-23:00, closed Sun-Mon, reserve for dinner, Via del Boschetto 73, tel. 06-4891-3832).
$$ Barzilai Bistrot, a wine bar with a kitchen under stout timbers, feels like the neighborhood hangout. The bar is inviting if you just want a nice glass of wine with a plate of meat and cheese. It’s family-run, with a fun menu ranging from pastas to burgers. Granny’s meatloaf is a hit (no reservations, Via Panisperna 44, tel. 06-487-4979).
$$ Taverna Romana is small, simple, and a bit chaotic—with an open kitchen and hams and garlic hanging from the ceiling. This family-run eatery’s cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper pasta) is a favorite. Arrive early, as they take no reservations (Mon-Sat 12:30-14:45 & 19:00-22:45, closed Sun, Via della Madonna dei Monti 79, tel. 06-474-5325).
$$ La Cicala e La Formica (“The Cicada and the Ant”) has its own little nook on Via Leonina. While a bit tired, with a forgettable menu, it has an old-school coziness, and the terrace is good for people-watching (daily 12:00-16:00 & 18:30-22:30, Via Leonina 17, tel. 06-481-7490).
$$ Taverna dei Fori Imperiali serves typical, slightly higher-priced Roman cuisine in a snug interior that bustles with energy (Wed-Mon 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-22:30, closed Tue, reserve for dinner, Via della Madonna dei Monti 9, tel. 06-679-8643, www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com).
$$ Alle Carrette Pizzeria—simple, rustic, and family-friendly—serves great wood-fired pizza just 200 yards from the Forum (daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, Vicolo delle Carrette 14, tel. 06-679-2770).
$ Trattoria da Valentino is a classic time warp hiding under its historic (and therefore protected) Birra Peroni sign. They specialize in scamorza (grilled cheese with various toppings; about €10), list the day’s pastas on a chalkboard, and serve a variety of meat dishes (Mon-Sat 13:00-14:45 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, Via del Boschetto 37, tel. 06-488-0643).
$ Antico Forno ai Serpenti, a hip bakery with a few simple tables, puts out a small selection of panini, baked potatoes, and lasagna. They also bake good bread and pastries and do breakfasts (order at the counter, daily 8:00-23:00, Via dei Serpenti 122, tel. 06-4542-7920).
$$ Enoteca Cavour 313 is a quality wine bar with a slightly unconventional menu, ranging from couscous and salads to high-quality affettati (cold cuts) and cheese. You’ll be served with a mellow ambience under lofts of wine bottles, enjoying spacious-for-Rome seating (daily 12:30-14:45 & 18:30-23:30, 100 yards off Via dei Fori Imperiali at Via Cavour 313, tel. 06-678-5496).
Monti Aperitivo: Look for bars hosting the aperitivo—happy hours where, for the cost of a drink (€8-12), you get access to a buffet of simple dishes. It’s a basic dinner (the Italian equivalent of macaroni and cheese, Spam, and Jello) in a fun scene with a great drink. A good example, just a block off Monti’s main square, is Analemma, which has a casual, youthful scene and a nightly buffet with a drink for €10 (18:30-22:00, Via Leonina 77, tel. 06-481-8479).
The streets of Monti are crowded with fun and creative places offering inexpensive quality snacks and light meals to eat on tiny informal tables or to take away. For a fun movable feast, drop in for a bite to whatever casual places you see that appeal. Here are some ideas:
Wine with Aperitivo (dinner only): $$ Fafiuché is an intimate yet vibrant family-run wine bar with a fun-loving vibe and no pretense. They serve a broad selection of wines and beers inside or at tables on the cobblestones outside. Andrea, Maria, and their son Gianmarco offer serious dishes from Apulia and Piedmont. And, if you’re assembling a mobile dinner, they put out an inviting buffet for your choice of €3 tapas plates (Mon-Sat 18:30-21:00, closed Sun, Via della Madonna dei Monti 28).
Pizza by the Slice on the Square: The hole-in-the-wall $ Pizzeria la Boccaccia is good for a takeaway slice. Point at what you like and mime how big of a rectangle you want (pricing by the etto, or 100 grams, daily 9:00-22:30, Via Leonina 73). Take it a block away to the main square (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti), buy a beer at the convenience store (top of the square), and make the piazza scene.
Gourmet Sandwich and Veggie Juice (open late weekends only): $ Zia Rosetta specializes in gourmet rosette, sandwiches on rose-shaped buns. At €3-4 for the tiny ones or €6-7 for the standard size, they’re perfect for a light bite—either to take away or eat in. Their fun, healthy, and creative menu includes salads and €4 centrifughe—fresh-squeezed, vitamin-bomb fruit and veggie juices (Mon-Thu 11:00-16:00, Fri-Sun until 22:00, Via Urbana 54).
Gelato: Fatamorgana, hiding on the welcoming little square just above Zia Rosetta, features the most creative gelato combinations I’ve seen in Italy—along with more conventional flavors. Portions are small but good quality—everything is organic and gluten-free (long hours daily, Piazza degli Zingari 5).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
$$ Terre e Domus is one of the few options around the otherwise unwelcoming Piazza Venezia. Immediately below Trajan’s Column, it’s a modern little place with a cool, peaceful, and well-lit dining room (daily 9:00-23:00, Foro Traiano 82, tel. 06-6994-0273).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
A pleasant little residential zone just up the street from the back of the Colosseum (the opposite direction from the Forum) features a real neighborhood feel and a variety of restaurants that capably serve tired and hungry sightseers.
$ Trattoria Luzzi is a well-worn, no-frills eatery serving simple food in a high-energy—sometimes chaotic—environment (as they’ve done since 1945). With good prices, big portions, and proximity to the Colosseum, it draws a crowd—reserve or expect a short wait at lunch and after 19:30 (Thu-Tue 12:00-24:00, closed Wed, Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 88, tel. 06-709-6332).
$$ Ristorante Pizzeria Naumachia is a good second bet if Trattoria Luzzi next door is jammed up. It’s a bit more upscale and serves good-quality pizza and pastas at decent prices (Via Celimontana 7, tel. 06-700-2764).
$$ Li Rioni, a pizzeria, is open only for dinner, when its over-the-rooftops interior and terrace out front are jammed with Romans watching the busy chef plunge dough into its wood-fired oven, then pull out crispy-crust Roman-style pizzas (Wed-Mon 19:30-24:00, closed Tue, Via dei S.S. Quattro 24, tel. 06-7045-0605).
$$ Il Pentagrappolo is an intimate enoteca, serving light meals (proudly, no pasta) to go with their selection of quality wines, many organic. Their €10 lunches include water, and on some nights there’s live music (see here of the Nightlife in Rome chapter). The location is convenient to the Forum and Colosseum (food served Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, also Tue-Sun 18:00-24:00, best to reserve on weekends, three blocks east of the Colosseum at Via Celimontana 21, www.ilpentagrappolo.com, tel. 06-709-6301).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
You’ll find these places across the street and up the hill from the Colosseum. They’re more convenient than high cuisine, though they work fine in a pinch.
$$ Hostaria da Nerone is a traditional place serving hearty classics, including tasty homemade pasta dishes. Their antipasti plate—with a variety of veggies, fish, and meat—is a good value for a quick lunch. While the antipasti menu indicates specifics, you can have a plate of whatever’s out—just direct the waiter to assemble the €10 antipasti plate of your lunchtime dreams (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, indoor/outdoor seating, Via delle Terme di Tito 96, tel. 06-481-7952).
$ Caffè dello Studente, a normal neighborhood bar popular with tourists and students attending the nearby University, is run by Pina, her perky daughter Simona, and son-in-law Emiliano. I’d skip the microwaved pasta and stick to toasted sandwiches and salad. If it’s not busy, show this book when you order at the bar and sit at a table without paying extra (daily 7:30-20:00, closed Sun Nov-March, Via delle Terme di Tito 95, mobile 320-854-0333).
(See “Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
With a constant swarm of hungry, well-worn travelers, Rome’s train station and the streets on either side of it are a nightmare of low-end eateries. It’s hard to find anything really appetizing, but you won’t go hungry either. Here are some options to consider:
(See “Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
From near track 15, ride the escalator up to a food court called $ Terrazza Termini. It’s bright, spacious, and safe-feeling, with several decent mall-type eateries, free Wi-Fi, free charging stations, and plenty of places to sit. You’ll notice competing aperitivo deals (17:00-20:00, €7 for a drink and access to buffet, Eccellenze della Costiera is best). There are also large self-service cafeterias on the ground floor.
The upscale Mercato Centrale by track 24 is an oasis inside the station. This recently opened food market hall has a great vibe and offers plenty of $$ foodie options (daily 8:00-24:00, street access at Via Giovanni Giolitti 36, tel. 06-4620-2989).
(See “Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
$$$ Target Restaurant seems to be the favorite recommendation of every hotel receptionist on Via Firenze. It has a sleek and dressy ambience, capable service, and food that’s reliably good, but pricey (free aperitivo with this book, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, closed Sun at lunch, reserve to specify seating outside or inside—avoid getting seated in basement, Via Torino 33, tel. 06-474-0066, www.targetrestaurant.it).
$ Caffè Torino is a workers’ favorite for a quick, cheap lunch. They have good, fresh, hot dishes ready to go for a fine price. Head back past the bar to peruse their enticing display, point at what you want, then grab a seat and the young waitstaff will serve you (Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Torino 40A, tel. 06-487-0000).
$ Via Firenze Snack Bars: Within a few steps of each other and several of my recommended hotels are three places (each open long hours daily) that may come in handy: Bar Firenze, with a lunchtime display of inexpensive pastas and colorful sandwiches that you can get to take out or eat at casual tables (Via Firenze 33, tel. 06-488-3862); Bufala e Pachino Pizza for pizza by the slice (Via Firenze 54); and Rosemary’s Kitchen for super cheap and healthy bites and drinks (Via Modena 14).
$$ Eataly is the popular chain for people looking for gifty Italian edibles. It’s bright and appealing, with several places to eat, including tables on the big square (daily 8:00-24:00, Piazza della Repubblica 41, tel. 06-4550-9130). While this one is handy, it’s smaller than the flagship, located near Testaccio (behind Ostiense train station at Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, a short walk from Piramide Metro station—see map on here).
(See “Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
If wanting a serious meal near the station, it’s worth walking 5-10 minutes to the quiet and residential-feeling Via Flavia, where you’ll find almost no tourism and a cluster of fine dining options. As these places are each distinct and within 100 yards of each other (and there are several other fine options not listed here), I’d show up, survey the scene, and eat at the spot that makes your stomach leap.
$$$ Taverna Flavia is an old school, gracious place with romantic seating, formal waiters, and signed photos of local celebs who’ve dined here over the decades. They are a proudly no-pizza establishment (good sidewalk tables too, open daily, Via Flavia 9, tel. 06-474-5214).
$$$ Ristorante la Pentolaccia, upscale and romantic, is a dressy but still tourist-friendly place with tight seating and traditional Roman cooking—consider their daily specials. This is a local hangout, and reservations are smart (daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, a block off Via XX Settembre at Via Flavia 38, tel. 06-483-477, www.lapentolaccia-restaurant.it). To start things off with a free bruschetta, leave this book on the table.
$$ La Bottega Ristorante, in the Punturi family since 1919, is a bright, mod, and easygoing place serving Roman and Mediterranean cuisine, and good wine by the glass (nightly from 17:00, Via Flavia 46, tel. 06-487-0391). They run the adjacent pizzeria and the tavola calda next door.
$ Pietro Punturi Tavola Calda is a rosticceria cooking up super casual dishes sold by the weight and eaten on plastic at its fast-food-type seating (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:30, closed Sun, Via Flavia 46).
$$ Pizzeria Annicinquanta, big and modern, is a neighborhood fixture, serving Neapolitan-style pizzas in a calm ambience with outdoor seating (daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:30-24:00, Via Flavia 3, tel. 06-4201-0460).
$$$ I Colori del Vino Enoteca is a classy wine bar that feels like a laboratory of wine appreciation. It has woody walls of bottles, vinyl records playing, a creative menu of affettati (cold cuts) and cheeses with different regional themes, and a great list of fine wines by the glass. Helpful, English-speaking Marco carries on a long family tradition of celebrating the fundamentals of good nutrition: fine wine, cheese, meat, and bread (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Sun, Via Aureliana 15 at corner of Via Flavia, tel. 06-474-1745).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City” map, here.)
As in the Colosseum area, some eateries near the Vatican prey on exhausted tourists. Avoid the restaurant pushers handing out fliers: They’re usually hawking places with bad food and expensive menu tricks. Instead, tide yourself over with a slice of pizza or at any of these eateries (see map on here), and save your euros for a better meal elsewhere.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City” map, here.)
These listings are a stone’s throw from the Vatican wall. They’re mostly fast and cheap, with a good gelateria nearby.
$$ Hostaria dei Bastioni, run by Antonio while Emilio cooks, has noisy streetside seating and a quiet interior (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Sun, at corner of Vatican wall at Via Leone IV 29, tel. 06-3972-3034).
$ L’Insalata Ricca is another branch of the popular chain that serves hearty salads and pastas (daily 12:00-23:30, across from Vatican walls at Piazza Risorgimento 5, tel. 06-3973-0387, www.insalataricca.it).
$ Duecento Gradi is a good bet for fresh and creative sandwiches—though at €5-8 they’re expensive by Roman standards. Munch your lunch sitting down (€1 extra) or take it away (daily 10:30-24:00, Piazza Risorgimento 3, tel. 06-3975-4239).
Gelateria Old Bridge scoops up hearty portions of fresh gelato for tourists and nuns alike—join the line (just off Piazza Risorgimento across from Vatican walls at Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 3).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City” map, here.)
Most of these listings are near the Vatican Museums and Cipro Metro stop. The Borgo Pio eateries are near St. Peter’s Basilica.
Viale Giulio Cesare and Via Candia: These streets are lined with cheap pizza rustica shops and self-serve places. $ Forno Feliziani (closed Sun, Via Candia 61) is a fancy version with nicely presented pizza by the slice and simple cafeteria-style dishes that you can eat in or take out.
Covered Market: Turn your nose loose in the wonderful Mercato Trionfale, one of the city’s best market halls. It’s more of a sight than a place to eat. Almost completely untouristy (with lots of vendors, but no real prepared-food stands aside from a bakery and a sandwich counter), it’s located just three blocks north of the Vatican Museums (Mon-Sat roughly 7:00-14:00, Tue and Fri some stalls stay open until 19:00, closed Sun, corner of Via Tunisi and Via Andrea Doria). If the market is closed, try one of these grocery stores (both open daily until 20:30): Co-op, with a big bakery section and tables where you can eat pizza by the slice (to the northwest at Via Andrea Doria 46), or the smaller Carrefour Express (closer to the Vatican at Via Sebastiano Veniero 16).
Eating Close to St. Peter’s: The pedestrian-only Borgo Pio—a block from Piazza San Pietro—has restaurants worth a look, such as the traditional $$ Tre Pupazzi (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, at corner of Via Tre Pupazzi and Borgo Pio, tel. 06-6880-3220). At $ Vecchio Borgo, across the street, you can get pasta, pizza by weight, and veggies to go or to eat at simple tables (daily 9:30-22:30, Borgo Pio 27a).
(See “Testaccio” map, here.)
To eat far from the crowds in a typical Roman neighborhood, take the Metro (to Piramide), tram (#3), or bus (#83 from Piazza Venezia) to Testaccio. Once a working-class slaughterhouse district, Testaccio has gentrified, but isn’t touristy. Its bustling market hall has been renovated, and Testaccio has become a favorite spot for local chefs and international foodies. Combine a meal here with a stroll through the neighborhood (see here); for restaurant locations, see here. To learn even more about the neighborhood, consider the Eating Italy Food Tour (described on here). Note that the flagship location of the Eataly food hall chain is in this neighborhood (see listing on here).
(See “Testaccio” map, here.)
This is a fun place for foodies (Mon-Sat until 14:00, closed Sun). After you buy your goods (it’s all “to go”), head to the center under the open skylight, where you’ll find inviting tables open to all. On the side of the market closest to Via Beniamino Franklin, search out a few favorites for a light lunch:
At Mordi & Vai (#15), Sergio makes tasty €3-4 sandwiches; locals love the trippa (tripe), but I prefer the panino con allesso (boiled beef with the bread dipped in broth) and picchiapò (stewed beef in a mildly spicy tomato sauce). Survey his dozen or so sandwich fillings and choose. As this is a popular place, you’ll need to take a number.
Within steps of Mordi & Vai, near #45, are several other tempting stalls: Along with two places dishing up pizza by the slice, there’s Zoe, serving up a little bit of California with fruit, smoothies, and salads made to order.
Nearby, several bakery stalls will satisfy your sweet tooth with their creative pastries. For olives, cheese, and cold cuts, try Ferraro’s (#2, around the corner from Mordi & Vai). They’re also a good bet for edible souvenirs—dried porcini mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes, as well as other specialties, many from Calabria (think spicy).
(See “Testaccio” map, here.)
$$ Agustarello has been serving Roman cuisine since 1957, but their restaurant feels up-to-date and without pretense—the emphasis is on the food. As this family-run place is quite small and very lively, reservations are smart (Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-24:00, closed Sun, Via Giovanni Branca 98, tel. 06-574-6585).
$$ Flavio al Velavevodetto, partially set inside Monte Testaccio (windows reveal the ancient stacked pottery shards), is a good place to try nose-to-tail classics like coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) as well as less adventurous options (daily 12:30-15:00 & 19:45-23:00, reservations smart for dinner, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 06-574-4194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it).
$$ Pizzeria Remo—the humble pizza joint with the huge mob of locals out front late into the evening—is a favorite for Roman-style (thin, crispy-crust) pizza and deep-fried appetizers. It’s inexpensive, busy, and crowded. If people are jamming the entrance, muscle your way inside and put your name on the list; there’s ample seating, and table turnover is brisk (Mon-Sat 19:00-24:00, closed Sun, Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, tel. 06-574-6270).
$$$ Volpetti Taverna features reinvented classic dishes with seasonal ingredients and a serious wine list. Popular with local office workers for a quick lunch—there’s a fun check-the-box menu—it turns pricey for dinner (open daily for lunch, also Tue-Sat for dinner, Via V. Volta 8, tel. 06-574-4306, Matteo).
$ Volpetti Salumeria is a venerable deli—a cheese-and-meat sensory extravaganza—and sells pizza, calzones, and bakery items to go (closed Sun, Via Marmorata 47, tel. 06-574-2352).
$$ Perilli is the neighborhood’s classic, old-school eating house—rollicking with tight tables of local families since 1911 (indoor seating only, Thu-Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:15, closed Wed, Via Marmorata 39, tel. 06-575-5100).
$$ L’Oasi della Birra (“Beer Oasis”) is well-known among Roman beer lovers, as it stocks more than 500 Italian and international brews. The main floor is a bottle shop and classy grocery, while the nondescript cellar and the terrace out front serve as a popular bar for locals to hang out and dine on pub grub. This is not a place for a fine meal or special ambience, but rather, to enjoy a beer and the lively local scene (daily specials; during happy hour from 17:30 to 20:30—except on Sun—€10 buys you a beer and access to their light dinner spread; daily 8:00-13:30 & 16:00-24:00, Piazza Testaccio 38, tel. 06-574-6122).