Chapter 20
Future Issues and Trends: Food Events, Festivals and Farmers’ Markets
Previous chapters and cases have illustrated the wide range of themes and agendas surrounding the area of farmers’ markets and food and wine festivals. This is a topic of research which cuts across many disciplines and fields and, as such, is of interest to academics and practitioners researching or working in food/wine production and distribution, food policy, gastronomy, destination marketing, regional development and urban/rural regeneration. This discussion is also relevant to individuals involved in events and festival management. The successful execution of food and wine events is dependent on an understanding, or at least an appreciation of, key skills and competencies associated with event planning such as logistics and programming. This is particularly relevant in the organization of major or hallmark food and wine festivals, where a ‘common sense’ or community volunteer approach may not be sufficient.
Due to this multi-disciplinary nature and the number of complex factors which impact on the management of these food events on an almost daily basis, it is difficult to accurately forecast trends regarding the size and nature of the farmers’ markets/food events market in the future. For example, the incidence of a number food scares in the UK between 2000 and the current day (BSE, foot and mouth, avian flu) have had a major impact on the public’s interest and commitment to local food with a clear provenance which, in turn, has helped generate interest not only in farmers’ markets, but also in more general food and wine events (Sassatelli and Scott, 2001; FARMA, 2006). This trend would have been hard to predict 5 or 10 years earlier. Indeed, as noted in several chapters in this volume, it is increasingly difficult to disaggregate the development of food events from broader concerns with sustainable food and agriculture and alternative food systems. For example, the Slow Food Movement is instrumental not only in supporting large-scale international events, but members are often strongly involved in community food festivals and farmers’ markets (see Exhibit 20.1).
Exhibit 20.1 Slow Food, Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre
The Slow Food Movement originated in Italy in 1986 under the inspirational leadership of Carlo Petrini and now has over 80,000 members involved with over 850 ‘Convivia’ (local chapters) worldwide. The philosophy of the movement is founded on the concept of ‘eco-gastronomy’, in other words, a recognition of the strong relationships that exists between ‘plate and planet’ (Slow Food, 2007). The Slow Food Movement believes in ‘good, clean and fair’ food, i.e. that ‘food should taste good; that it should be produced in a clean way that does not harm the environment, animal welfare or our health; and food producers should receive fair compensation for their work’ (Slow Food, 2007).
The international movement stages a considerable number of food events throughout the year, at convivium, national and international level with an aim to link small/local food producers with other food producers and to showcase their products to consumers. The most impressive of these events is the Salone del Gusto, which was launched in 1996 and is now held bi-annually at the end of October in Turin. In 2006 this event was organized by the Slow Food movement, the Piedmont Regional Authority and, for the first time, the Turin City Council.
The event has some commercial aims of encouraging producers to network, but also has an educational objective in allowing the public to see, taste and learn about artisan products which are little known. The concept of preserving the heritage and culture associated with these food stuffs is gaining in popularity and in 2006 over 150,000 visitors were attracted to the event (Salone del Gusto, 2007).
The 5-day event is staged in 50,000 square metres of exhibition space at the Lingotto Fiere Exhibition centre and includes 125 institutional stands, 600 exhibitors from 80 countries, 270 stands of Italian and foreign ‘presidia’ (endangered food products that are being promoted and safeguarded by the Slow Food movement). The hall also houses tasting areas and restaurants, and there are a comprehensive number of cookery demonstrations, taste workshops and educational events on offer for children and adults. Many well-known chefs from around the world are involved with the event. The event is sponsored by a number of companies and organizations including Lurisia, De Cecco, Lavazza, Consorzio Parmigiano-Reggiano, Consorzio Prosciutto di San Daniele and Sanpaolo Imi (Salone del Gusto, 2007).
In 2004 the movement staged for the first time the ‘Terra Madre’, an international food communities meeting, which was repeated in 2006 to run alongside the Salone. This event is not open to the public, but brings together producers and other members of the food and agriculture sector to debate about key issues which are pertinent to the theme of sustainability within the global food chain. This world meeting brought together 9,000 people in Turin; 4,803 farmers, breeders, fishermen and artisan food producers from 1,583 food communities and 150 nations; 953 cooks, 411 professors and representatives from 225 universities, 2,320 observers and guides and 776 volunteers (Terra Madre, 2007).
Sources: Derived from Salone del Gusto (2007): http://www.salonedelgusto.com Slow Food (2007): http://www.slowfood.com and Terra Madre (2007): http://www.terramadre2006.org
Of course this is not to suggest that the Slow Food or organic movements are the only reason why growth in food events has occurred. But the growth of these movements parallel to that of the growth of food events is no accident and reflects broader societal concern in many developed countries not only about the qualities of the food we are consuming, but also how about rural regions and communities, agricultural practices and lifestyles and certain forms of small-scale retailing can continue to survive if not prosper.
In many developed countries such as the UK and the USA, some agricultural regions have attempted at least a partial shift from wholesale production to service-oriented agritourism to mitigate the impacts of economic globalization, urbanization and corporate agribusiness on small farms, and to develop a stable niche for local food products within their communities (Food System Economic Partnership, 2006). For example, owners of small farms in western and northern Michigan have worked to develop a regional identity to attract new customers to their farms through tourism-related direct retail and entertainment ventures (Che et al., 2005). However, it is also apparent that access plays a major role in the relative success of food events, and that the most successful agricultural and food tourism ventures benefit from being located within regions with strong place-based identities located near large, urban, visitor-generating areas (Che et al., 2005). Events are therefore extremely important because at a variety of scales they help to reinforce the ‘sense of place’ with respect to food and community pride, while they also serve to help promote place and help brand foods and their qualities (Hjalager and Corigliano, 2000; Hall et al., 2003). Such promotion is significant at local and regional level and, for the larger events, at a national and international level. For example, wine festivals and events typically go hand-in-hand with awards and promotions that are integral to the marketing strategies of many wineries and their regions (Hall and Mitchell, 2008).
The substantial growth in the number and variety of food events and festivals (Emmons, 2001; Hall et al., 2003; Çela et al., 2007) is matched by the growth of farmers’ markets (Brown, 2002; Payne, 2002; FARMA, 2006; see Chapter 13, this volume). In a number of locations, many small-scale agricultural producers have transitioned from selling at farmers’ markets for supplemental income to establishing these direct sales opportunities as their primary retail operations. In addition, the entrepreneurial skills and networks established at farmers’ markets can provide an opportunity for some producers to develop new distribution and sales channels, even including export (Guthrie et al., 2006).
‘When vendors work cooperatively instead of competitively, these retail outlets help to foster informal networks and provide social benefits such as the sharing of information and education through personal interactions between consumers and producers’ (Food System Economic Partnership, 2006, p. 2).
Networking has been recognized as integral to the success of many food tourism ventures. Although it should be stressed that the networks within which food events are embedded usually consists of a number of other agritourism and/or wine and food tourism ventures and products in addition to agricultural production (Telfer 2001; Hall et al., 2000, 2003). Lynch and Morrison (2007) highlight the fact that businesses in the wine and food tourism network identified by Telfer (2001) in the Niagara region of Canada work together to improve the quality and diversity of the regional wine tourism product, as well as undertaking joint marketing of the region. Hall (2004) also notes that as food and wine networks develop over time they can further reinforce notions of place, thereby creating further positive feedback in relation to the hosting of food events and farmers’ markets (see Chapter 2).
Connection between accommodation providers and events is also an important part of network development. The concept of offering a short break package where a farmers’ market experience is combined with overnight hotel accommodation is gaining in popularity. Sometimes this is a simple deal where guests are just provided with return transport to the market from the hotel, but other packages have added value. For example, the Bonham Hotel promotes a ‘farmers’ market cooking experience’, which includes two nights at one of Edinburgh’s top boutique hotels, escorted trips to the market with Bonham’s executive chef, and several opportunities to watch one of the hotel chefs cook for the group using the local ingredients (Bonham’s, 2007).
As with food events in general farmers’ markets can also provide substantial regional economic and environmental benefits, and are increasingly being turned to as a means of local economic development in agricultural regions. In economic terms farmers’ markets, as well as many community-based food events, help retain monies in the local economy for a longer period thereby assisting in the maintenance of local employment. In environmental terms, they can also assist in the maintenance of traditional farming practices and product varieties that also help maintain rural landscapes and biodiversity. Both economic and environmental localism as embodied in farmers’ markets help combine with other local marketing practices to promote local branding and reinforce local i dentity.
Such measures may then be utilized by producers in their own marketing. In addition, markets and festivals can provide an outlet for farmers to experiment with new products, gain customer feedback and also help educate interested consumers or, as noted above, to transition to larger ventures or new markets at minimal risk.
Yet, arguably, farmers’ markets in many situations have evolved in to something far more than a community-based food event as they have become focal points for the encouragement of sustainable consumption and the development of alternative economic systems and distribution channels. Research access to healthy foods, also suggests farmers’ markets as institutions and many of their vendors place emphasis on the values and norms that reflect their ethics, honesty, and co-operativeness in their selling environment and willingness to serve their customers (Baber and Frongillo, 2003; Food System Economic Partnership, 2006). While this is the case, there also appears to be opportunities to grow the contribution of farmers’ markets to local food systems development via attracting larger volumes of customers where practical and increasing the proportion purchased at markets through improved marketing practices such as:
However, a key issue that becomes apparent in examining food festivals and farmers’ markets as expressions of local food systems means that because of their community foundations and relatively decentralized nature they are often ‘reinventing the wheel’ when it comes to marketing and planning practices. This is particularly with respect to the small businesses that participate in such events, and their understanding regulatory requirements, customer needs and how the event and/or market fit within their wider business strategy – assuming that they have developed one. Such concerns are important for small businesses so that they can best use their scarce financial and human resources in the most effective manner to achieve business and personal goals. Moreover, at a regional level such concerns are also important because of the relative balance that regions need to address with emphasis on events, festivals and farmers’ markets, as part of their overall product mix for tourism and distribution and retailing of produce, including adding value through the restaurant and foodservice sector or other means.
Despite a lack of clear direction for many events and regions, there is a wealth of discussion and literature emerging from a number of interested parties: academics, government departments, campaigning organizations, university extension services and interested individuals which should be useful in supporting the development of the sector in the short/medium term (e.g. Payne, 2002; Oberholtzer and Grow, 2003; Thilmany, 2005; Stephenson et al., 2006). Despite some of the stakeholders having different aims and objectives with respect to the hosting of food events and their utilization for tourism purposes, there is a positive commitment to the farmers’ markets/food event concept. For example, in the UK, several government departments have the topic of farmers’ markets and food festivals firmly on their agenda. The Department of Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) has published a number of reports since 2000 (DEFRA, 2001a, 2002, 2003), which have commented on the value of farmers’ markets/food festivals as tools of reconnection within the food supply chain. Other reports produced by the same department support the importance of events as a mechanism for regeneration in rural areas (e.g. DEFRA, 2001b), and there is a keen governmental interest in the maintenance and support of market towns as strong and vibrant c ommunities in which to live (DEFRA, 2000, 2004).
DEFRA also has a strong commitment to education, and an initiative ‘The Year of Farming and Food in Education’ was launched in September 2007 (DEFRA, 2007). This project aims to give young people in England direct experience of the countryside and the food chain. One of its aspirations for the year is to encourage every school to participate in local food procurement activities. Farmers’ market and local/regional food events are ideal locations for this learning to take place.
The Department of Health also has an interest in the production and distribution of good quality food as a key driver in the health of the nation. In their latest action plan on ‘Delivering Sustainable Development’ (Department of Health, 2007), which builds on an earlier report from 2005, there is an identification of the need to encourage consumption of good food in the context of sustainable farming, a commitment which sits well with the farmers’ market ethos. The UK initiatives with respect to access to healthy foods, particularly for lower income groups, are also replicated in the US context although, as in the UK, there is significant variation between regions with respect to the effectiveness of such a strategy (e.g. Conrey et al., 2003; United States Department of Agriculture, 2002).
There are several well-established campaigning groups who also have an interest in the future of farmers’ markets and local food initiatives. For example, in the UK The Soil Association (2003), an organization committed to the promotion of organic food, and Friends of the Earth (2000a, b, 2001, 2002), an environmental charity which calls for a ‘greener’ planet, have produced several reports which support farmers’ markets as good practice within sustainable communities. Sustain, an organization which advocates ‘food and agricultural policies and practices that enhance the health and welfare of people and animals, improve the working and living environment, promote equity and enrich society and culture’ (Sustain, 2007) have also been champions of local food initiatives for the last decade (Sustain, 2003, 2004), and it is likely that they will continue to have an interest in their future. The National Trust who clearly establish their position through their food and farming policies (National Trust, 2007a) also have a keen interest in farmers’ markets and food festivals (National Trust, 2007b). Events held at their properties enable their tenant farmers and local food producers to bring produce to market, but in the longer term the Trust has a firm belief that food events have an important educational role to play about sustainable food production. In the USA, University Extension Services are arguably one of the most important forces in supporting grower direct marketing initiatives along with farmers’ market associations themselves.
It is also important to acknowledge the role of food events in more urban settings and several organizations including the Association of Town Centre Managers (ATCM) in the UK have identified the importance of events in supporting the life, health and vibrancy of town and city centres. They advocate the development of ‘event space’ in town planning and have clearly articulated the benefits that farmers’ markets and food events can bring to an urban environment (ATCM, 2007).
Finally, farmers’ market associations, such as FARMA, the official body which represents farmers’ markets across the UK, are key contributors to discussions about the future. A conference held in November 2007 (FARMA, 2007) brought together experts from the world of food and farming to discuss the development of farmers’ markets. Key themes that were debated included quality, funding, marketing, certification and education. An examination of information that has emerged from these organizations alongside findings that have been articulated in academic papers suggests a number of key areas of long-term importance to food events and farmers’ markets.
Product Life Cycle
There appears to be a marked difference between the maturity of the market with regards to farmers’ markets and other types of food events. This is not necessarily concerned with the length of time that individual events have been inexistence, or for how long the sector can continue to develop, but more to do with our understanding of the sector. With regards to farmer’s markets, there is a reasonably well-accepted concept in many countries of what constitutes a farmers’ market and through organizations such as FARMA (2007), it is possible to reach a reasonably good comprehension about the size and nature of the market.
Through this information it is evident that, in some countries where the farmers’ market renaissance first occurred as in the USA and the UK, the food event market is reaching quite a mature stage. For example, in the UK, the number of new farmers’ market sites that are now being opened up has softened over the last 2 years following the rapid growth in 2001 to 2003. It is predicted by FARMA (2007) that markets will continue to be opened at a steady rate, but the overall market is likely to become saturated by the time there are a total of 800 sites in operation.
Stephenson et al.’s (2006) research on farmers’ markets in Oregon also highlights the need to understand the complexities of a more mature market for food events such as farmers’ markets. In the period 1998 to 2005 of the 62 markets that opened, only 30 continued to be open at the end of the 2005 season, therefore the total number of markets grew from 38 to 68. Of the 32 markets that closed, 15 markets (nearly 47 per cent) did so following their first season. Thirty of the 32 markets (94 per cent) closed after operating 4 or fewer years. As Stephenson et al. (2006, p. 4) noted, ‘the high failure rate for markets, especially younger ones, is startling. The two older markets that closed after 11 and 22 years respectively demonstrate that this is not just an issue with new markets’.
The markets that are already in existence, and especially those who have been in operation for some time, are now looking at ways of extending/developing their product in order to provide variety and interest for their customer base. They appear to be doing this in two ways. Firstly some market organizers have chosen to offer the market more frequently, such as once a week rather than once a month, as in the case of Edinburgh, Scotland (Edinburgh Farmers’ Market, 2007), whilst others have decided to offer an augmented product by providing additional benefits to their customers. This may be in the form of entertainment at the market, children’s activities, cookery demonstrations or competitions. Another common trend is to offer ‘one-off’specialized markets at several points throughout the year. These take a range of formats, for example, a seasonal celebration, such as Easter or Christmas markets, or themed markets such as Medieval markets and Continental markets. Another strategy may be to link farmers’ markets to the food events. For example, when the Savour New Zealand food event was held in Christchurch in 2007, a special farmers’ market day was held in the city’s Cathedral Square by vendors from the city’s various farmers’ markets.
Definitions of what is meant by a ‘food event’ are less well established and as such there are no national organizations, such as FARMA, which can easily collate information and set standards. At the present time, it is a complex task to gather meaningful statistics to illustrate the size, nature and scope of this sector. What is known is that there appears to be rapid growth in this area with many new food festivals and events, under a range of formats being established and actively promoted in many countries around the world. Host organizations include governmental bodies, charities and interested groups/individuals. However, the relative survival rate of such food event initiatives is unknown. Nevertheless, the interest that currently exists in food events and farmers’ markets has also created a renewed awareness of some of the longer established food festivals. For example, in the UK, ancient food festivals such as The Whitstable Oyster Festival in Kent have had something of a renaissance. It is difficult to predict growth patterns or when the market will become saturated, but at the present time there are no indications that the market is slowing down.
Certification and Licensing
In many countries, the whole subject of policy, regulation and market certification is a key debate in the future development of farmers’ markets and food events (Payne, 2002). For example, in the USA, it is widely recognized that farmers’ markets began to re-emerge (after years of decline) only after the passage of the Farmer-to-Consumer Direct Marketing Act of 1976 (Thilmany, 2005), and revisions in 2002 and 2006. Nevertheless, regulatory issues differ from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. As Chapter 12 noted in California farmers’ markets are defined under state law, although in most other jurisdictions such markets are self-defined with regulation and quality assurance usually being maintained by farmers’ markets associations themselves.
With reference to the UK farmers’ markets, for example, FARMA are keen to ensure that, as many markets as possible are certified and listed with their organization with an aim to protect the quality of delivery and maintain the concept of local sourcing. Unfortunately there are always operators who are ready to seek financial gains from a good idea, and there have been repeated reports of markets being run that do not comply with the farmers’ market ethos, often selling cheaper, poor quality or non-local food (e.g. Kelleher, 2007). This trend is hard to regulate and control against, but if the true farmers’ market concept is to survive, it may be up to consumers to boycott these markets and to continue to push for high standards or for government to take a stronger regulatory interest in markets.
Licensing legislation, with regards to the sale of liquor and the inclusion of entertainment at an event, also throws up a challenge for the food event organizer. Licensing legislation is constantly being updated and organizers have to be vigilant if they are to avoid prosecution. This is a challenge for farmers’ markets organizers who may wish to extend their product by offering a more sophisticated model. For example, if a market is set up in a church hall selling fruit, vegetables, cheeses, jams, chutneys and cakes, and then decides to expand and involve a wine producer and cider producer, who will offer sampling, the licensing arrangements will have to be carefully reviewed. Similarly, licensing law is also a major issue for any food event that focuses on alcohol, whether it be beer, cider, wine or spirits, even if such events do have a strong regional beverage focus.
Ancient market charters, held by some towns and cities in the UK, and elsewhere in Europe, are another limiting factor on the future expansion of farmers’ markets. These charters, often held by the local council, prevent markets from being established in a certain geographical area without permission from the charter holder. This is a good way of monitoring and maintaining the standards of markets that are being set up, but it does mean that the charter holder in a way has a monopoly situation. This situation could stifle creativity from the lack of new players being involved in the region.
Development of Permanent Sites
If individual farmers’ markets become successful, then one direction that some choose to adopt is to trade more frequently. Several markets have taken this a stage further, through the establishment of a permanent site, which houses a farmers’ market each day. The question that then arises is, ‘Is this still a farmers’ market’ ? One example of this is the Goods Shed in Kent (The Goods Shed, 2007), which complies with farmers’ market guidelines and has a good following. Likewise, if we look at other types of food events and festivals, as they develop in scale, it is likely that some of these may need to use more permanent locations. Two of the largest agricultural shows in the UK, The Great Yorkshire Show (2007) and The Royal Show (2007) have become so big that they now take place on purpose-built showgrounds, which is a model that has long been used in Australia and New Zealand.
More Formalized Management Styles
As markets mature and food events become more established, it is also likely that there will be an adoption of more formalized management structures. For example, at Ludlow Marches Food Festival, there has been a gradual move from a very informal casual committee arrangement which was set up 13 years ago by a group of individuals. Due to the size and complexity of the festival, there is now a board of directors who are responsible for the strategic development of the event (Ludlow Marches Food Festival, 2007). The 12 London farmers’ markets are also run by a company arrangement which was established to ensure a consistent approach across the city (London Farmers Markets, 2007). Other models also exist such as at the Whitstable Oyster Fair where a paid event organizer was recently employed to manage their event (Whitstable Oyster Fair, 2007). This more formalized approach is necessary when events reach a certain size to achieve organizational and financial control. Although as Stephenson et al. (2006) have reported with respect to their research, it is also a way of ensuring the survivability of events and markets.
Branding of Events
The increased popularity of food events in recent years has encouraged a number of individuals and companies to launch a series of events under a brand name. One of the first people in the UK to do this was the food writer, broadcaster and consultant Henrietta Green (Celebrity Chef UK, 2007). Her ‘Food Lovers fairs’ have been very popular and have been influential in raising awareness of British food. It was one of her fairs that helped to launch the refurbished Borough Market to the public. One of the most recent ‘brands’ to be promoted is the ‘Taste’ brand of events which are sponsored by Channel 4 television. Taste of London was a 4 day gourmet festival that took place in Regents Park during the summer of 2007. Other Taste events were held at Bath, Birmingham, Dublin and Edinburgh (Taste Festivals UK, 2007). Such events are also significant as they demonstrate the increasing strong relationship between food media, such as television (especially food channels and shows) and specialist magazines. However, the longer-term implications of such relationships for events and markets may affect the relationship of events to the locations in which they originated. For example, Savour New Zealand was held in Christchurch every 2 year years from 2001 to 2007 with Cuisine magazine as a sponsor as well as support from the Christchurch City Council. From 2008 the privately owned event moved to Auckland, where it was planned to be held annually and featured a new official media partner in the form of Dish magazine. Such shifts in place as events seek greater returns also highlight some of the difficulties for local governments in providing financial support for events, as they may be concerned that money invested in developing an event will be wasted if it then moves to another location.
Conclusions
This book has highlighted some of the major issues that face food events in developed countries and the way that they have become part of broader strategies of regional and product promotion and development. As noted in Chapters 1 and 2, food events are different from other events in that although they share some of the same management, marketing and planning concerns, they are inseparably bound to issues of food localization and globalization, alternative regional food systems, sense of place and terroir and the communities in which food is produced and consumed. Food events and farmers’ markets therefore have sets of issues that need to be addressed differently from some of the standard event management strategies, although the wider field can still be useful for informing food event decision-making and management.
Arguably, food events therefore have specific sets of expectations on them with respect to their role in promoting more specific forms of economic development, lifestyles and local products which may at times be difficult to achieve. Increasing concern over the quality of food we eat also means that food events, and farmers’ markets in particular, are also seen as important avenues of food and health education and quality assurance with respect to what we eat, as well as a means of sustaining communities and heirloom food products and varieties.
Food events are therefore not just there for tourism and external promotion of regional produce, as important as these concerns may be, but are often part of contemporary local responses to modern food system impacts of environmental degradation, food security and economic instability and decline. As Chapter 2 noted, food events and farmers’ markets have become integral part of local ‘foodsheds’ and alternative agricultural networks. However, the extent to which such developments have become part of broader consumer understanding or has influenced the larger food and economic system is not as well understood as it could be.
One recurring problem that has been identified in various alternative regional food system models is the challenge of marketing the system and its components, including food events and farmers’ markets. Objectives such as business survival while maintaining ethical food production may be confounded by changing consumer trends as well as competition with large food retailers, especially supermarkets, which may co-opt some elements of local food production as well as utilize their market and media power to retain their existing customer base and influence on consumer purchase. Moreover, it can be argued that there is a need for a broader understanding of event and market visitors anyway, particularly as each event is likely to have its own particular profile.
Even given the relatively limited understanding of the area, it is hoped that this book and the range of cases and profiles it provides of food events is at least a part of beginning to understand their place within contemporary consumption and lifestyle, and the potential contribution that they may have with maintaining rural landscapes and production. Given contemporary concerns over global environmental change, food security and the increasing costs of energy, it is increasingly the case that food events and farmers’ markets are not just regarded as worthwhile business developments, but are also becoming integral to the development of more sustainable forms of production and consumption.
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Whitstable Oyster Fair (2007) at http://www.whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk