The glory of leaves lies in their fresh green simplicity. Tossed in nothing but a dollop of dressing, their bright grassy notes enliven any meal. But just because they demand so little from a cook—a rinse, a tear, maybe a splash of vinaigrette—does not mean they give little in return. Whether mild or bitter, crisp or tender, spiky or round as thumbprints, leafy vegetables are essential to any culinary repertoire. Learning to prepare them is one of the easiest ways to grow as a cook.
Leafy vegetables make your own vitality grow as well. After all, in nature it is a plant’s leaves that perform the prodigious task of harnessing sunlight and converting it into the fuel that powers almost every living creature on the planet. It’s a punishing job, and in order to fulfill it, leaves are loaded with phytochemicals that prevent and repair the damage caused by basic cellular processes. Our own bodies benefit enormously from the hard work that leaves do—utilizing those protective phytochemicals to mend, cleanse, and restore our own cells.
As nature’s ubiquitous and most abundant source of nourishment, it’s no wonder, then, that leaves—in the form of lettuce and cabbage—are also one of humankind’s earliest foods, cultivated as early as some 5,000 years ago. Maybe a tossed salad, far from being a sidekick to lunch or dinner, is actually our first and most fundamental meal. It’s sunlight transformed into wild, green deliciousness.
SEASONALITY
Leafy greens prefer cool, mild weather; intense sunlight and heat trigger the plants’ impulse to “bolt,” sending up a seed-bearing stalk that turns the leaves tough and bitter. So look for local lettuces and other leafy greens in spring, early summer, and fall. Some hardier leaves, like spinach, chicories, and cabbages, turn sweet late in fall after a cold snap, and can form the basis for salads throughout the winter. Imported and greenhouse-grown leaves are available year-round.
BUYING
Tender, delicate leaves don’t travel well, so shop farmers’ markets for the freshest choices and to find unusual foraged or heirloom specialties. However, leaves can flourish in greenhouses, so many are available year-round in grocery stores, including hardy romaine, iceberg, endives, and cabbages. When selecting lettuces and spinach, look for dark, firm leaves, which generally contain more nutrients, and avoid any that are limp or wilted, or streaked with brown along the ribs. When buying leaves by the head—including romaine, butterhead, and iceberg lettuces, plus chicories, endives, and cabbages—inspect the base; it should appear freshly cut, pale and dry rather than dark or slimy. If you buy prepackaged greens (such as spinach or mesclun), gently shake the container to check that there are no dead leaves clinging to the others or the container itself—they’re almost impossible to clean off at home. Hardier leaves, such as endive, radicchio, and cabbage, should be vividly colored or brightly hued and the heads should feel firm rather than squishy or spongy. Avoid endive and radicchio whose outer leaves are brown at the edges.
NOTABLE VARIETIES
Lettuces: Green Salad Bowl is an all-purpose buttery lettuce; others include Oakleaf (red or green varieties) and Tango. Lollo Biondo is a peppery green loose-leaf lettuce. Mâche, also known as corn salad or lamb’s lettuce, is also tender and mild. Colorful lettuces include Marvel (or Red Besson), Rossa di Trento, Red Grenoble, Red Riding Hood, Red Salad Bowl, Loose-Leaf Garnet, Lollo Rossa, Rubens Romaine, and Amaranth (botanically a grain but the leaves can be used like lettuces). You can also find red romaine, which tends to be more tender than green, as well as baby romaine and other lettuces, which are all harvested young.
Spring and wild greens: The hearty leaves of stinging nettle turn almost nutty when cooked; chickweed has a mild, earthy flavor; lamb’s quarters are slightly more delicate in taste and texture than spinach; purslane tastes of citrus; dandelions are mildly bitter; both types of sorrel (wood and sheep’s) are refreshingly sour. Watercress is the most popular type of cress sold in the United States; others include pepper cress, curly cress, land cress, and upland cress. All have a similar peppery taste, though it varies in intensity.
Spinach: There are three types of spinach: Savoy spinach, such as Regiment and Bloomsdale, has thick, deeply crinkled, dark green leaves; Flat-Leaf (or Smooth-Leaf) spinach has more tender, smooth leaves and includes such varieties as Red Cardinal and Red Kitten, usually harvested for baby greens; Semi-Savoy spinach is a hybrid of Savoy and Flat-Leaf and has a texture that’s between the two—varieties include Indian Summer Hybrid, Teton, and Catalina. Orach, also known as mountain spinach, has a mild flavor; it is botanically unrelated to spinach but can be used in the same way.
Chicories and endives: You can find Belgian endive in creamy white or red; full-heart endive has a mild, slightly bitter flavor. Of all the varieties of radicchio, Radicchio Rosso and Chioggia are the most common; Radicchio Caesar is one of many Italian varieties, with vibrant red leaves and a bitter, almost tart flavor. Others include Treviso, which looks and tastes similar to endive; Treviso Tardivo, a more intensely flavored, firmer version of Treviso; Castelfranco, with speckled white leaves; and Puntarelle, the edible part of another type of Italian chicory (sometimes referred to as “chicory hearts”) that has long pale-green stalks with spiky dark green leaves. Blanched frisée is spikier than other frisées.
Cabbages: Savoys have a more delicate flavor than basic green cabbages. Their broad leaves work well as wrappers for ground meat and other stuffings. Napa cabbages include several varieties—some pale and compact, others green and leafy; they may be labeled Chinese cabbage, celery cabbage, wong bok, or Peking cabbage. Red (purple, really) cabbages are crunchy and mildly peppery; look for miniature varieties at farmers’ markets.
STORING
Remove any twist ties or rubber bands—they’ll bruise the leaves and speed deterioration—then handle gently. Leaves should be stored loosely in a plastic bag left open at the top or poked with holes to allow for some air circulation. Adding a barely damp paper towel to the bag increases humidity and can prolong freshness. Tender lettuces should be eaten within two days of being washed, so refrain from pre-washing if you’re not sure when you’ll get around to consuming them. Hardier leaves (frisée, escarole) can be washed and dried in a spinner before being refrigerated for up to five days. Kept whole, iceberg lettuce can last a week, and cabbages can remain a month or more, loosely wrapped in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
PREPPING
The best way to wash leaves is to fill a sink with very cold water. Add the leaves, swish gently, then allow to sit a few minutes so dirt sinks to the bottom. Gently lift out the leaves, and repeat the process—once if they’re fairly clean to start with and up to four times if they’re quite sandy or dirty. (Even leaves labeled “triple-washed” should be washed before eating.) Spin lettuce dry, filling the spinner no more than halfway at a time; check to ensure that no moisture remains, since dressings won’t cling to wet lettuce. Don’t cut or tear until just before serving. Which technique is better? Large, delicate leaves, such as butterhead and Batavian, should be torn rather than cut to preserve cell structure and limit wilting. Firm leaves can be sliced or chopped. And small, tender leaves are best left whole, as are especially shapely ones, such as endive.
All leaves, even the mildest lettuces, may be braised or sautéed or added to soups. Some, including spinach, dandelion, and romaine, can be juiced or whirred into smoothies. And large, pliable leaves make excellent wraps for a variety of fillings, as well as pretty beds for composed salads. But surely the simplicity of these leaves is their greatest gift to the cook—a green salad can be quickly tossed together. Take the time to master a few versatile dressings at home. Start by rubbing a pinch of salt into the leaves to infuse them with flavor. Then use a light vinaigrette for mild lettuces, a thicker dressing for sturdier leaves—and always add it just before serving. Pour the dressing around the sides of the bowl rather than right on top of the leaves, and toss from the bottom up. Or whisk together the dressing in the bottom of your salad bowl, then add the leaves and toss to combine (but here you want to make sure you don’t make too much dressing).
HOW TO BRAISE
(For all leaves)
Cut heads (such as romaine, cabbage, radicchio, and endive) into quarters, leaving wedges intact. Cut or tear other types of leaves (dandelion, watercress, spinach, and arugula) into 2-inch pieces. Heat olive oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium low. Add wedges, cut sides down; add leaves in batches, tossing and adding more as they wilt. Cook until wedges are golden underneath or leaves are just wilted, 5 to 10 minutes (5 minutes for spinach). Add enough liquid (broth or water) to cover, and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until very tender, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on vegetable (10 minutes for spinach). Season with salt and pepper.
HOW TO SAUTÉ
(For all leaves)
Cut heads (such as romaine, cabbage, radicchio, and endive) into quarters, leaving wedges intact. Cut or tear other types of leaves (dandelion, watercress, spinach, and arugula) into 2-inch pieces. Heat butter or olive oil in a large skillet over medium; butter should start to brown. Add wedges, cut sides down; add leaves in batches, tossing and adding more as they wilt. Cook, stirring occasionally, just until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
(For all leaves)
Cut heads (such as romaine, cabbage, radicchio, and endive) into quarters, leaving wedges intact. Cut or tear other types of leaves (dandelion, watercress, spinach, and arugula) into 2-inch pieces. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Place wedges, cut sides down, on a rimmed baking sheet; scatter leaves in a single layer. Roast at 400°F, turning once, until leaves are wilted and slightly charred, about 15 minutes for wedges, 2 to 5 minutes for more tender pieces. For Italian flavors, drizzle with balsamic vinegar and top with finely grated Parmesan.
HOW TO GRILL
(For sturdy lettuces: romaine and iceberg)
Cut heads into halves or quarters, leaving wedges intact, and brush cut sides with olive oil. Grill on medium high, cut sides down, until charred in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve warm, drizzled with olive oil and a flavorful vinegar, or top with crumbled croutons and grated Parmesan.
FLAVOR PAIRINGS
The words salad and salt have the same Latin root—no accident, as it happens. A judicious amount of salt has long been the key to a successful dressing. That’s because salt interferes with our ability to taste bitterness, and all leaves are slightly bitter. (Even the most abrasive of today’s cultivated leaves are mild compared with their wild forebears, however.) Acidity in the form of vinegar or citrus heightens the taste of freshness in all plant foods, and fat—whether olive oil or bacon renderings—is the best harmonizer and conveyer of subtle flavors to the tongue. In addition to oil, acidity, salt and pepper, try these pairings in your salads:
ARUGULA: almonds, goat cheese, grapes, pears, fennel, lemon, Parmesan
CABBAGE: bacon, apples, caraway, juniper, red onions, ginger, garlic, soy, cashews, chiles, lime, radishes, carrots
CHICORIES AND ENDIVES: bacon, asiago, blue cheese, walnuts, garlic
MESCLUN LEAVES: goat cheese, nuts, mushrooms, dried fruits
MILD/SWEET LETTUCE (BIBB, BOSTON): shallots, citrus, chervil, tarragon, avocado, sour cream/yogurt (in dressing)
ROMAINE: anchovies, Parmesan, garlic, eggs, Dijon mustard, tomatoes, capers
SPINACH: bacon, egg, Dijon mustard, shallots, lemon, dill, mushrooms, pine nuts
WATERCRESS: buttermilk, blue cheese, beets, bell peppers, ginger, lemon, shrimp
Watercress and Asparagus Pizza
Pork Scaloppine with Radicchio
Garden Greens with Chopped Eggs
Baby Greens with Pine Nuts and Pancetta
Arugula and Stone Fruit Salad with Balsamic Lamb Chops
Free-Form Lasagna with Edible Weeds
Fried Chicken with Puntarelle Salad
Mini Asian Meatballs in Lettuce Cups
Watercress and Asparagus Pizza
It’s common practice by now to top pizza with a heap of arugula when it comes out of the oven, as a sort of pizza-and-salad-in-one. With a similar spicy, peppery taste, watercress works well on pizza, too. Here, we’ve combined upland cress with asparagus and red onion to create a springy, savory pie for dinner.
SERVES 4
1 bunch asparagus, tough ends trimmed and spears thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pizza dough; use 1 ball; reserve other for another use)
8 ounces ricotta cheese
4 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded
2 cups upland cress or watercress, tough stems removed
Red-pepper flakes
1. Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in lower third. Toss together asparagus, onion, and 1 tablespoon oil in a medium bowl. Season with salt and black pepper.
2. Brush a rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil. Using your hands, gently stretch dough from all sides to approximate size of baking sheet. Place dough on baking sheet, stretching and fitting it to edges.
3. Brush dough with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then spread with ricotta, leaving a ½-inch border. Top with asparagus mixture; sprinkle with mozzarella.
4. Bake until crust is golden brown and asparagus is tender, about 20 minutes. Top with cress, season with salt, and sprinkle with red-pepper flakes. Cut into pieces and serve.
TIP
We especially like the sharp flavor and heat of upland cress; look for it at farmers’ markets and specialty grocers.
Belgian endive leaves are crisp and sharp—just right for perking up salads during the winter months. The taste is often described as bittersweet, and the same could be said for fennel and walnuts, both used here. Pomegranate seeds add vibrant color.
SERVES 8
2 fennel bulbs, halved, cored, and thinly sliced, plus ¼ cup lightly packed fennel fronds
1 pound Belgian endive (preferably red), trimmed and leaves separated
½ cup pomegranate seeds
½ cup chopped walnuts, toasted
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Scatter fennel and endive on a large platter, and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, walnuts, and fennel fronds.
2. Whisk together oil and lemon juice in a small bowl, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle over salad and serve.
With its long, slender, open head, napa cabbage—or Chinese cabbage (napa is loosely translated from Chinese as “leaf”)—definitely stands out from more familiar cabbages. It’s a milder-tasting, less-crunchy option for making slaws like this one.
SERVES 6
¼ cup white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, preferably whole grain
2 tablespoons sugar
½ small head napa cabbage, cored and shredded
4 or 5 radishes, thinly sliced and cut into matchsticks
½ cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Whisk together vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a small bowl. Toss together cabbage, radishes, golden raisins, and chives in a large bowl. Drizzle dressing over salad, and season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine and serve.
Pork Scaloppine with Radicchio
Here, breaded cutlets are served with a sauce made by deglazing the pan with a splash of Marsala, one of the simplest and most beloved Italian preparations. The dish usually features sautéed mushrooms; we substitute roasted portobellos and add roasted radicchio, which tastes less bitter than the raw vegetable.
SERVES 4
1 pound boneless pork tenderloin, cut on the bias into ⅓-inch-thick slices
1 head radicchio, halved, cored, and cut into ¾-inch-thick slices
1 pound fresh portobello mushrooms, stemmed and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Wondra (instant) flour or all-purpose flour, for dredging
⅓ cup fresh sage leaves
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
⅔ cup Marsala wine
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Place pork between layers of waxed paper and pound to an even thickness (about ⅛ inch).
2. Spread radicchio on half of a rimmed baking sheet and mushrooms on other half. Drizzle with oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast until just starting to turn tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
3. Lightly dredge pork in flour. Heat a large straight-sided skillet over medium high. Add oil, swirl to coat, and cook sage until just crisp, about 1 minute. Remove from skillet.
4. Swirl butter into skillet and cook pork in two batches until lightly browned around edges, 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Return all pork to skillet. Pour in wine and simmer until reduced to a glaze, stirring up browned bits from bottom of pan, about 1 minute. Add radicchio and mushrooms, coat with sauce, and serve.
TIP
You could substitute veal, chicken, or turkey cutlets for the pork.
When brunch is in the forecast, make strata—this one is built around the long-running combination of spinach and eggs (think soufflés, omelets, and quiches). The spinach is seasoned with nutmeg, another classic flavor partner, and is paired with two terrific cheeses: young fontina, a superb melting variety, and Parmesan.
SERVES 8
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 pounds spinach, stems trimmed and leaves coarsely chopped
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Unsalted butter, room temperature, for baking dish
1 pound challah loaf, sliced ½ inch thick
8 ounces young Italian fontina cheese, grated
⅓ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
8 large eggs
2⅔ cups whole milk
1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium until shimmering. Add onion and season with salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Fill pan with as much spinach as will fit; cook, stirring, and adding remainder a handful at a time as space allows. When all the spinach is wilted, season with pepper and stir in nutmeg. Drain spinach in a sieve. When cool enough to handle, squeeze excess moisture from spinach by hand.
2. Butter a 3-quart baking dish. Place a third of the bread slices in a single layer in dish. Top with half the spinach mixture and a third of the cheeses. Repeat layering with a third of the bread, remaining spinach mixture, and a third of the cheeses, then top with remaining bread (reserve remaining third of the cheeses).
3. Whisk together 6 eggs and 2 cups milk, season with salt, and carefully pour over bread. Cover with parchment, and gently press down with hands until egg mixture soaks through top of bread. Cover parchment with foil, and refrigerate at least 8 hours (and up to 2 days).
4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, remove strata from refrigerator, uncover, and let stand 30 minutes. Whisk together remaining 2 eggs and ⅔ cup milk, and pour over strata, gently pressing between layers of bread with a spoon or spatula to ensure that egg mixture seeps to bottom. Sprinkle with remaining cheeses.
5. Bake until puffed and golden brown in spots, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before serving.
TIP
Young fontina has a softer texture than aged varieties and is often labeled as “semi-firm” or “table cheese”; you can find it at cheese shops and specialty grocers. Regular fontina will also work here.
Garden Greens with Chopped Eggs
Baby spinach is much more tender and mild tasting than mature varieties, and needs only a quick rinse (and no stemming) before serving. While you can find it in clamshell packages, seek out baby spinach in bunches for superior flavor and freshness.
SERVES 4
8 ounces haricots verts, trimmed
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces snap peas, trimmed
4 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons sour cream
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups baby spinach
4 large eggs, hard-cooked
¼ cup fresh tarragon leaves
1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1. Prepare an ice-water bath. Working in batches, blanch haricots verts in a pot of generously salted boiling water until bright green and crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to ice bath and let cool; remove. Return water in pot to a boil, and blanch snap peas, in batches, about 1 minute. Transfer to ice bath until cool; remove snap peas, and cut in half.
2. Whisk together anchovies, lemon juice, and sour cream in a bowl. Slowly add oil in a steady stream, whisking until combined. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Divide spinach, haricots verts, and snap peas among four plates, and top each with chopped eggs and herbs. Drizzle with dressing, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Spinach and Garlic Soup
In this chilled spring soup, spinach is paired with two forms of garlic: fresh garlic is roasted to bring out the natural sugars; and green garlic, which has no bulb, is briefly sautéed, to preserve its delicate flavor.
SERVES 6
2 cups plain yogurt
4 heads roasted garlic (see How to Roast)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
6 to 10 green garlic stems, sliced ¼ inch thick
1½ cups chicken broth
½ pound baby spinach
¼ cup fresh basil leaves, plus small leaves for garnish
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Coarse salt
1. Stir together ¼ cup yogurt and 2 teaspoons roasted garlic in a bowl; cover and refrigerate up to 1 day.
2. Heat ¼ cup oil in a saucepan over medium high. Cook green garlic until translucent, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Add broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes; let cool.
3. Transfer broth mixture to a blender. Add remaining 1¾ cups yogurt and half the spinach, and purée until smooth. Add remaining spinach, the basil, and 2 tablespoons roasted garlic (reserve remainder for another use), and purée. Add lemon juice, and season with salt. Refrigerate, covered, at least 2 hours (and up to 1 day). To serve, top with roasted-garlic yogurt and more basil.
When you have a head of escarole (and a half hour to spare), make a quick beans-and-greens soup. This member of the chicory family has a pleasant bitterness and sturdy leaves that become tender after only a brief simmer. We include two types of legumes—chickpeas and kidney beans—for contrasting tastes and textures in this hearty one-pot meal.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, smashed
Pinch of red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
1 small head escarole, leaves torn into 2-inch pieces (about 12 cups)
Coarse salt
1 can (15.5 ounces) red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 can (15.5 ounces) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water
Toasted bread and lemon wedges, for serving
1. Heat a large saucepan over medium; add oil and swirl to coat. Add garlic and red-pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add escarole, toss to coat, and season with salt. Cook until escarole is just wilted, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes.
2. Add kidney beans, chickpeas, broth, and the water. Bring to a simmer. Cook until heated through, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Season with salt; remove garlic. Top with red-pepper flakes. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges and toasted bread.
Frisée and Roasted Pear Salad
SERVES 8
2 tablespoons honey
5 tablespoons sherry vinegar
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
3 Bosc pears, cored, each cut into eighths (unpeeled)
8 shallots, halved lengthwise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
⅓ cup water
1 large head frisée, trimmed (about 8 ounces)
2 heads endive, trimmed
¾ cup walnut halves, toasted
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Whisk together honey, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange pears and shallots in a single layer in a roasting pan; toss with honey mixture to coat. Roast 20 minutes, turning pears and shallots halfway through. Continue roasting until shallots are easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife, about 10 minutes more.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar and 3 tablespoons oil with the mustard in a heatproof bowl; season with salt and pepper.
3. Remove roasted pears and shallots from roasting pan and place pan over high heat; add the water, and scrape up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Let liquid reduce by half, then whisk mixture into vinaigrette.
4. Toss frisée and endive with vinaigrette. Transfer to a platter, top with pears, shallots, and walnuts, and serve.
Baby Greens with Pine Nuts and Pancetta
You can often find a mix of so-called Asian greens sold at supermarkets, but it’s fun to assemble your own; baby mizuna, baby tatsoi, and chrysanthemum greens are among the most widely available varieties.
SERVES 4
4 ounces assorted delicate salad greens, such as baby tatsoi, baby mizuna, and chrysanthemum greens (about 8 cups)
8 very thin slices pancetta
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced crosswise
3 tablespoons pine nuts
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Combine greens in a serving bowl. Heat a skillet over medium; cook pancetta, turning once, until crisp, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer with tongs to paper towels; drain.
2. Pour off half of the fat from skillet. Add oil to skillet; place over medium-low heat. When fat is hot but not smoking, add shallots and pine nuts. Cook, stirring, until pine nuts are golden brown, about 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer pine nuts and shallots to serving bowl.
3. Remove skillet from heat. Immediately add vinegar; scrape up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Drizzle warm dressing over salad. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Top with pancetta and serve.
Arugula and Stone Fruit Salad with Balsamic Lamb Chops
The peppery, mustardy taste of arugula complements so many other flavors, including the earthy lamb and sweet fruits in this summer main course (inspired by Moroccan tagines). And arugula has a particular affinity for mint (and other fresh herbs, like basil or cilantro). A mix of aged balsamic vinegar and olive oil does double duty as a marinade for the chops and a dressing for the salad.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)
¼ cup balsamic vinegar, preferably aged
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of sugar
8 bone-in rib lamb chops, frenched (each about 4 ounces and 1 inch thick)
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch arugula (about 8 ounces), trimmed
2 plums or nectarines, or a combination, pitted and sliced into wedges
¼ cup packed fresh mint leaves
1. Heat a medium skillet over medium high. Toast pepitas, shaking pan frequently, until darkened and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Whisk together vinegar, oil, and sugar in a bowl. Reserve ¼ cup of the mixture; transfer remaining marinade to a sealable plastic bag. Season lamb with salt and pepper and add to the bag, turning to coat. Let marinate in refrigerator, turning occasionally, at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.
3. Let chops stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Heat a large skillet over medium. Working in batches, remove lamb from marinade, letting excess drip off, and add to pan. Cook, flipping once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part (avoiding bone) registers 125°F, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let stand 10 minutes.
4. Whisk reserved vinegar mixture to combine. Divide arugula, fruit, pepitas, and mint among four plates. Season with salt and pepper; drizzle with reserved vinegar mixture. Top with lamb, dividing evenly; serve immediately.
These appetizers show how even a little bitter arugula can go a long way in balancing the sweetness of other ingredients (in this case, caramelized onions and fresh figs). Sharp Parmigiano-Reggiano, arugula’s frequent partner, is shaved over the top.
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
12 ounces fresh figs, halved lengthwise
12 slices baguette, toasted
3 cups baby arugula
1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, shaved
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat oil in a large skillet over low. Add onions, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, 45 minutes. Raise heat to medium low and cook until lightly browned and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool slightly.
2. Combine sugar, cayenne, and a generous pinch of salt in a bowl. Place figs, cut side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar mixture. Roast until tender and caramelized, about 10 minutes.
3. Dividing evenly, top each slice of bread with some caramelized onions (reserve extra for another use), figs, arugula, and cheese. Serve immediately.
Sturdy romaine leaves stand up beautifully to the heat of the grill. The salad is best when the romaine is hot off the grill, topped with radishes, shallot, and buttermilk dressing.
SERVES 4
1 bunch radishes, quartered
1 shallot, thinly sliced
⅔ cup water
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
½ cup buttermilk
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sour cream
1 large head romaine lettuce, halved lengthwise
Safflower oil, for brushing
1. Place radishes and shallot in a bowl. Bring the water, ½ cup vinegar, the sugar, and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Pour over radishes and shallot; refrigerate.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together buttermilk, sour cream, and remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Heat grill (or grill pan) to medium high. Brush romaine halves with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill until charred but still crisp, about 4 minutes per side. Drizzle dressing over romaine. Drain radish-shallot mixture, scatter over romaine, and serve.
Free-Form Lasagna with Edible Weeds
Once thought of as pesky intruders, edible weeds—sorrel, dandelion, lamb’s quarters, chickweed, purslane, and stinging nettle, among others—boast a diversity of flavors, from sweet to savory, tart to nutty, and spicy to bitter. Use just one or any combination in this lasagna. The weeds are sautéed with garlic and combined with golden raisins and lemon juice, then layered with zesty ricotta and pasta sheets.
SERVES 4
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 cup fresh ricotta cheese
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
8 square fresh lasagna noodles (each about 5 inches)
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
12 ounces edible weeds, such as sorrel and lamb’s quarters, thick stems removed, large leaves coarsely chopped
¼ cup golden raisins
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil; add a generous amount of salt and 1 tablespoon oil. In a bowl, stir together ricotta and lemon zest; season with salt and pepper. Working with a few at a time, cook lasagna noodles until al dente, according to package instructions. Using tongs, transfer to a baking sheet, laying each square flat. Cover with plastic wrap.
2. In empty pot, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium high. Add garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Add weeds; season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing, until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in raisins and lemon juice; season with salt and pepper.
3. On each of four serving plates, top one lasagna noodle with about ¼ cup weed mixture and 2 tablespoons ricotta mixture. Top with another noodle, ¼ cup weeds, and 2 tablespoons ricotta. Drizzle with oil and serve immediately.
TIP
Fresh lasagna noodles can be found at specialty shops and Italian markets; you can also boil dried sheets as directed on the package, then drain and cut into squares.
Braised Red Cabbage
The compound that gives red (and purple) cabbage its beautiful color will also turn it blue when it’s cooked with an alkaline substance, such as chicken broth, so don’t omit the vinegar or another acid (like lemon juice); the acid counterbalances the alkaline.
SERVES 8
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons brown sugar
½ cup apple cider vinegar
2 cups pure apple cider
1 cup chicken broth
1 cinnamon stick
1 dried bay leaf
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small head red cabbage, cut into 8 wedges, core intact
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a large, wide, heavy ovenproof pot over medium. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges start to caramelize, 10 to 12 minutes. Add sugar and cook, stirring, 1 minute more. Add vinegar and bring to a boil, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in cider, broth, cinnamon, and bay leaf; season with salt and pepper. Add cabbage, arranging in a single layer. Bring to a boil. Cover; transfer to oven and braise until cabbage is tender, 40 to 45 minutes.
2. Transfer cabbage to a serving platter using a slotted spoon; discard cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Bring remaining liquid in saucepan to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. (You will have about 1 cup sauce.) Spoon sauce over cabbage, and serve.
Creamed Green Cabbage
Cabbage is delicious when drenched in a creamy béchamel sauce, blanketed with grated cheese, and baked. Serve it with roast pork or sausages, like kielbasa or bratwurst.
SERVES 6
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small head green cabbage (about 2½ pounds), cored and shredded (10 cups)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk, warmed
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring 1 inch of water to a boil in a pot; add salt. Add cabbage and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly. Squeeze out excess water using a clean kitchen towel.
2. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour, and cook until bubbling but not browning, 1 to 2 minutes. Slowly whisk in milk. Cook, stirring, until sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; add ¼ cup cheese and the lemon zest. Immediately fold cabbage into sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Spoon mixture into a shallow casserole dish. Sprinkle with remaining tablespoon cheese. Bake until bubbling, 30 to 35 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.
Fried Chicken with Puntarelle Salad
Here’s Southern fried chicken and greens, Italian style: Buttermilk-battered strips of meat are topped with a salad (à la Milanese) of bitter leaves and basil. If you can find a head of puntarelle, a chicory that’s a specialty of Rome, by all means use it here. First, peel back and trim the leaves, and reserve the celery-like heart for another use. Otherwise, use any bitter leaves you like.
SERVES 6
FOR THE SALAD
10 cups bitter leaves, such as puntarelle, dandelion greens, arugula, escarole, or chicory, torn or sliced if large
¾ cup torn fresh basil leaves
5 scallions (white and pale-green parts only), thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves
Coarse salt
3 oil-packed anchovy fillets
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
FOR THE CHICKEN
2 cups buttermilk
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
Safflower oil, for frying (about 8 cups)
3 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves (1½ pounds), cut into 1-by-3-inch strips
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. Make the salad: Toss together greens, basil, and scallions in a large bowl. Mash garlic and a pinch of coarse salt into a paste using a mortar and pestle or using the flat side of a chef’s knife. Add anchovies and mash. Transfer mixture to a small bowl, and stir in lemon juice. Gradually add oil, whisking constantly, until emulsified.
2. Make the chicken: Combine buttermilk, eggs, baking powder, and baking soda in a bowl. Whisk flour with coarse salt and pepper in another bowl.
3. In a medium pot, heat a few inches of oil over medium until oil reaches 380°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Dip each piece of chicken into buttermilk mixture to coat, shaking off excess, then dredge in flour mixture, patting it onto chicken as you work to coat completely.
4. Working in batches, carefully fry chicken until deep golden brown, about 3 minutes. Use tongs to transfer to paper-towel-lined plates to drain. Sprinkle with sea salt.
5. Toss salad with half the dressing in a large bowl. Season with coarse salt and pepper. Divide chicken strips among six plates, and top each with salad. Serve with lemon wedges and remaining dressing on the side.
Mini Asian Meatballs in Lettuce Cups
Lettuce is an entirely authentic wrapper for Asian meatballs, and it doesn’t detract from the flavorings the way that bread can. Soft, tender lettuces like Bibb and Boston work best, but green and red leaf lettuces are fine here, too. Don’t skip the accompanying lime mayonnaise; it’s so easy to mix, and really completes the dish, as do the other garnishes.
SERVES 4
½ cup chopped garlic (from 10 to 12 cloves)
3 tablespoons chopped peeled fresh ginger (from a 3-inch piece)
¼cup chopped scallions (from 2 to 3 scallions)
1 pound ground beef, turkey, or pork, or a combination
1 teaspoon fish sauce, such as nam pla or nuoc mam
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges, for serving
Bibb lettuce leaves, for serving
Assorted garnishes, such as cilantro, sliced Thai chiles, chopped roasted peanuts, and hot sauce such as Sriracha
1. Finely chop together garlic, ginger, and scallions. In a bowl, gently combine garlic mixture with ground beef, fish sauce, and salt. Form mixture into 1-inch meatballs.
2. Heat sesame oil in a large skillet over high. Working in batches, fry meatballs until browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes per batch.
3. In a small bowl, mix mayonnaise and lime juice. Serve meatballs in lettuce cups, with lime mayonnaise, assorted garnishes, and lime wedges.
