THE REAL TURKISH SHISH KEBAB | PAGE 214
Lamb is the preferred meat for grilling on a huge stretch of the world’s barbecue trail. You could start enjoying it in Morocco and eat your way east through North Africa, the Middle East, Turkey, and Central Asia, continuing on to the Indian subcontinent to Indonesia, Australia, and New Zealand.
Throughout the Arab world, birthdays, weddings, and other happy occasions are celebrated with a pit-roasted lamb called mechoui, and no Greek holiday feast would be complete without a whole spit-roasted lamb. As for Australians, you’d expect great grilled lamb in a country where sheep are said to outnumber humans by twenty to one.
In this chapter you’ll find familiar favorites, such as shish kebab and lamb Provençal, as well as many exotic ways to grill lamb, including Afghan lamb chops marinated in onion water and Mexican barbacoa (chile-slathered leg of lamb wrapped in avocado leaves). Did I mention Senegalese lamb with mustard sauce, Indian tandoori lamb with chickpea flour, and Cape Town leg of lamb with a brown-sugar mustard crust?
When you travel the world’s barbecue trail, a little lamb quickly becomes a lot of lamb. And that’s good news for so many of us who love this flavorful meat.
Mexico’s answer to barbecue, barbacoa is intriguingly delicious and easy to adapt for the backyard barbecue grill. I’ve chosen a recipe for Oaxacan-style barbacoa, featuring a guajillo chile marinade and a wrapping of avocado leaves. The avocado leaves can be found dried at Mexican markets and specialty food shops and impart a pleasant aniselike flavor. But don’t worry if you can’t find avocado leaves because the lamb will still be quite delectable barbecued without a wrapping.
Barbacoa is traditionally served in two courses: first a soup (flavored with lamb drippings), then the lamb, which is eaten with tortillas. You can read more about barbacoa on page 200.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
4 to 8 hours for marinating the lamb, plus about 4 hours cooking time
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
8 to 10 fresh or dried avocado leaves (optional; soak dried leaves for 20 minutes in cold water to cover)
FOR THE CHILE PASTE AND LAMB
6 guajillo chiles (see Chile Notes, page 201)
5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
¼ medium-size onion, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon dried oregano
2 whole cloves
2 whole allspice berries
1 small piece (½ inch) cinnamon stick, or ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup distilled white vinegar
½ leg of lamb bone-in (about 4 pounds), trimmed of any papery skin
FOR THE CONSOMME
1 medium-size onion, cut into ½-inch dice
2 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
1 zucchini, scrubbed and cut into ½-inch dice
1 piece (12 ounces) calabaza (West Indian pumpkin) or butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
½ small green cabbage, cored and cut into ½-inch dice
1 large ripe tomato, cut into ½-inch dice
1 medium-size potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
1 ear corn (optional), shucked and cut into ½-inch rounds
2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs cilantro, and 2 sprigs epazote (optional), tied in a piece of cheesecloth
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 chipotle pepper, minced (see Chile Notes, page 201)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR SERVING
Warm tortillas
Salsa Mexicana (page 192)
1. Prepare the chile paste and lamb: Stem the guajillo chiles, tear them open, and remove the veins and seeds. Soak the chiles in water to cover until they are soft and pliable, about 20 minutes. Drain the chiles and place them in a blender with the garlic, coarsely chopped onion, oregano, cloves, allspice berries, cinnamon, salt, vinegar, and ¼ cup of water. Process to a smooth paste.
2. Using the tip of a paring knife, make a series of slits in the lamb, ¼ inch deep and 1 inch apart. Smear the chile paste all over the lamb, working it into the slits. Cover the lamb loosely with plastic wrap and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 4 to 8 hours (the longer the better).
3. Prepare the consommé: Combine the diced onion, carrots, zucchini, calabaza, cabbage, tomato, potato, corn (if using), herb bundle, and 10 to 12 cups of water in a large fire-proof pot.
4. Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium-low.
5. You’re now ready to assemble the barbacoa. Place the consommé pot in the center of the grate that holds the charcoal, or if using gas, in the center of the grill grate (away from the heat). Place a metal rack, like a sturdy cake rack, on top and layer half of the avocado leaves (if using) on top; if not using avocado leaves, oil the rack. Place the lamb, fat side up, on top of the rack and avocado leaves and carpet it with the remaining leaves (if using). Cover the grill tightly.
6. Cook the barbacoa until the lamb is fall-off-the-bone tender, 3 to 4 hours. When the lamb is done, an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the leg (but not touching the bone) will register between 180° and 190°F. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals to each side every hour.
7. To serve the barbacoa, discard the top layer of avocado leaves and transfer the lamb and bottom layer of leaves to a platter. Let rest for 5 minutes, then thinly slice the meat or cut it into chunks. Remove and discard the herb bundle from the consommé. Using a ladle, skim off any fat floating on the surface of the soup. Stir in the chopped cilantro and chipotle and season the consommé with salt and pepper to taste; the soup should be highly seasoned. Serve the consommé first, then the meat, accompanying both with tortillas and salsa.
This is one of the most remarkable tandoori dishes I had anywhere in India. “Mutton” is what Indians call baby goat. Here its haunting flavor comes from a marinade perfumed with rose water, mace, and saffron, seasonings that suggest the Persian roots of this dish. (Don’t forget, the Mogul rulers of northern India were descended from Persians.) Muhammad Farooq, master chef of the Mughal Sheraton in Agra, uses goat so young that a whole leg is about the size of a turkey leg! Baby goat tastes like a cross between lamb and veal. You may be able to order it from a specialty butcher, but leg of lamb makes a perfectly delicious substitute.
This recipe may sound a little involved, but actually it’s a series of simple steps. The only challenging part is remembering to drain the yogurt ahead of time. By the way, the liquid you drain from the yogurt can be made into the refreshing Afghan Yogurt Drink (page 65). Chickpea flour, or besan—which imparts a nutty taste—is available at Indian markets and natural foods stores. Indian-style basmati rice and Pineapple Chutney (page 454) would make good accompaniments.
4 hours for draining the yogurt, plus 6 hours for marinating the meat
INGREDIENTS
1½ cups plain whole-milk yogurt
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
1 teaspoon rose water
½ cup chickpea flour (besan; optional)
1 green cardamom pod
1 black cardamom pod (optional)
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 blades mace, or ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
½ leg of lamb bone-in (about 4 pounds; see Note), preferably shank end, trimmed of any papery skin
1. Set a yogurt strainer, or a regular strainer lined with a double layer of dampened cheesecloth, over a small bowl. Add the yogurt to the strainer and let drain, in the refrigerator, until a firm “cheese” forms, about 4 hours; you should have about 1 cup.
2. When ready to marinate the lamb, place the saffron in a small bowl and grind it to a fine powder with a pestle or the end of a wooden spoon. Add the rose water, stir, and let stand for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cook the chickpea flour (if using) in a dry skillet over medium heat until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally (don’t use a nonstick skillet for this). Remove the toasted flour from the heat and transfer it to a medium-size bowl. Add the green and black cardamom pods, peppercorns, and mace (if using) to the skillet and toast over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice. Remove the spices from the heat and let cool, then grind them in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder. Add the ground spices to the chickpea flour (if using).
4. Using a wooden spoon, mash the yogurt cheese into the spice mixture to blend thoroughly, then add the saffron rose water mixture and the grated nutmeg (if using), and the salt, cayenne, ginger, garlic, and butter. Stir the yogurt mixture with the spoon or knead it with your fingers until blended and smooth; it will be a thick paste.
5. Using a sharp paring knife, make slits about ¾ inch deep all over the lamb and rub in the yogurt paste. Place the meat in a deep bowl, cover, and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 6 hours.
6. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, place a large drip pan in the center, and preheat the grill to medium.
7. When ready to cook, place the lamb on the hot grate over the drip pan and cover the grill. Cook the lamb until done to taste, 1¼ to 1¾ hours for fall off-the-bone tender (Indians like their lamb—and kid—well-done); when the lamb is very well-done an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the leg (but not touching the bone) will register between 180° and 190°F. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals to each side after 1 hour.
8. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving.
NOTE: If you can get kid, use two 1½-pound legs, trimmed of fat and sinews, instead of the lamb. Cook it as described but reduce the time to about 1 hour.
This recipe is simplicity itself, and it makes a pleasant switch from the usual lamb with mint sauce. The preparation reflects the ecumenism of the South African kitchen. Asia is represented by the use of ginger, soy sauce, and Chinese mustard. A British influence can be seen in the Worcestershire sauce and brown sugar. Put them together and you get an energizing jolt of flavor—sweet, sour, and spicy—that will give you a whole new perspective on lamb. I like to serve this lamb with equally ecumenical accompaniments: naan (Tandoori-Baked Flat Breads, page 131), Persian-Style Steamed Rice (page 425), and Pineapple Achar (page 449).
CAPE TOWN LAMB
ADVANCE PREPARATION
3 to 8 hours for marinating the meat
FOR THE LAMB
1 bone-in leg of lamb (6 to 8 pounds), trimmed of any papery skin
6 cloves garlic, cut into thin slivers
6 thin slices peeled fresh ginger, cut into thin slivers
FOR THE GLAZE
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons hot Chinese-style mustard, or 1 tablespoon dry mustard
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the lamb: Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make slits about an inch deep all over the surface of the lamb. Insert a sliver each of garlic and ginger into each slit. Place the lamb in a nonreactive roasting pan and set aside while you prepare the glaze.
2. Make the glaze: Combine the Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, Dijon and Chinese-style mustards, lemon juice, oil, and minced garlic and ginger in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook the glaze until thick and syrupy, about 3 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Remove the glaze from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as necessary. Let cool to room temperature.
3. Pour half of the cooled glaze over the lamb in the roasting pan, brushing to coat it on all sides. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 3 to 8 hours (the longer the better). Refrigerate the remaining glaze, covered.
4. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, place a large drip pan in the center, and preheat the grill to medium.
5. When ready to cook, place the lamb on the hot grate over the drip pan and cover the grill. Cook the lamb until done to taste, 2 to 2½ hours; when done to medium, an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the leg (but not touching the bone) will register 160°F. Start brushing the lamb with the remaining glaze during the last 45 minutes of grilling; brushing it two or three times. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals to each side every hour.
6. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and brush it one last time with glaze, then let rest for 10 minutes before carving. While the lamb rests, heat any remaining glaze to serve as a sauce with the lamb.
Mechoui is North African barbecued lamb. Traditionally, a whole lamb is gutted, spitted, rubbed with butter and spices, and cooked over an open pit fire. The quality of the local lamb, the intensity of Moroccan spices, and the heady scent of wood smoke make this one of the most memorable dishes you’ll find on the planet. Here’s an easy, satisfying version made with a more manageable leg of lamb; it captures the open-air drama of the original. Serve the mechoui with A Simple Harissa, Moroccan Shallot Relish, Moroccan Eggplant Salad (pages 481, 445, and 97), and pita.
There are three options for how you grill the lamb. The closest to the original would be on a rotisserie over the fire. Alternatively, you could use the indirect grilling method in a covered grill. In the third method (the least traditional, but the most unabashedly delicious, which is why I have chosen it here), you grill a butterflied leg of lamb directly over the fire. Your butcher can bone and butterfly the lamb for you.
FOR THE LAMB AND SPICED BUTTER
1 leg of lamb, boned and butterflied (3½ to 4 pounds after boning), trimmed of any papery skin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, at room temperature
4 cloves garlic, minced
16 fresh mint leaves, minced, or 1 tablespoon dried mint
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon ground cumin, plus more for serving
FOR THE SAUCE
3 tablespoons salted butter
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar or fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
16 fresh mint leaves, thinly slivered, or 3 tablespoons mint jelly
2 cups homemade chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water
Salt
1. Prepare the lamb and spiced butter: Open out the butterflied leg of lamb on a work surface so the inside is up and season it with salt and pepper. Set the lamb aside while you make the spiced butter.
2. Combine the 8 tablespoons of butter, 4 cloves of garlic, minced mint, and the coriander, paprika, and cumin in a food processor and process to a smooth paste.
3. Set up the grill for two-zone grilling (see page 18) and preheat one zone to medium-high and one zone to medium.
4. When ready to cook, spread about one third of the spiced butter over the inside of the lamb. Spread about 1 tablespoon more over the outside of the lamb. Arrange the lamb, outer side down, over the hotter section of the grill and cook, turning with tongs, until done to taste, 15 to 20 minutes per side. If the lamb starts to burn, move it to the cooler section of the grill. Every 5 minutes, spread the top of the lamb with some of the remaining spiced butter.
5. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Melt the 3 tablespoons of butter in a small, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and the 2 cloves of garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and the slivered mint and bring to a boil, then stir in the chicken stock. Let come to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and let the sauce simmer until it is richly flavored and slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt and/or more vinegar as necessary.
6. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let it rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve the lamb with the sauce and tiny bowls of salt and cumin on the side for seasoning.
Lamb is the preferred meat of the Greeks—especially at Easter. It’s hard to imagine an Easter celebration in Athens (not to mention in Chicago, Boston, or Astoria, New York), without a fire pit where whole lambs are spit roasted to the color of mahogany and the crispness of cellophane. This recipe calls for a butterflied leg of lamb, which can easily be cooked on a backyard barbecue grill. The turning motion of a rotisserie will give you the best results, but you can also cook the lamb over medium heat using the indirect grilling method; this will take an hour and a half to two hours. Have your butcher bone and butterfly the lamb for you.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
4 to 6 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Butcher’s string; rotisserie
FOR THE LAMB AND MARINADE
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano, preferably Greek
1 leg of lamb, boned and butterflied (3½ to 4 pounds after boning), trimmed of any papery skin
1 lemon, cut in half and seeded
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
FOR THE BASTING MIXTURE
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup dry white wine
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Greek
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the lamb and marinade: Combine the salt, white pepper, and 1 tablespoon of oregano in a small bowl.
2. Open out the butterflied leg of lamb on a work surface so the inside is up and sprinkle one third of the spice mixture over it. Squeeze the juice from one lemon half over the meat, then cut the used lemon half into quarters. Set the remaining lemon half aside. Rub the inside of the lamb with 3 tablespoons of the butter, then scatter the lemon quarters on top. Fold the lamb back into its original cylindrical shape and tie it at 1-inch intervals with butcher’s string. Place the lamb on a baking sheet, cover it loosely with plastic wrap, and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 4 to 6 hours.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the basting mixture: Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, wine, garlic, 2 teaspoons of oregano, and black pepper in a medium-size nonreactive bowl and whisk to mix.
4. Set up the grill for spit roasting following the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat it to high.
5. When ready to cook, skewer the lamb roast lengthwise on the spit and rub it all over with the cut side of the second lemon half and the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Add another generous sprinkling of the spice mixture. Attach the spit to the rotisserie mechanism, cover the grill, and turn on the motor.
6. After the meat has been rotating for 30 minutes, whisk the basting mixture again and, using a long-handled basting brush, brush some of it all over the lamb. Cook the lamb until crusty and brown on the outside and done to taste, 1 to 1½ hours; when done to medium-well, an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the roast will register 170°F. Uncover the grill to brush the lamb every 15 minutes with the basting mixture and season it with more spice mixture from time to time. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals to each side after 1 hour.
7. Transfer the lamb roast, on the spit, to a cutting board. Remove the spit and let the roast rest for 5 minutes. Remove the strings before slicing.
For centuries, lamb was Australia’s preferred meat—in many places its only meat—a legacy of the vast sheep farms that represented the continent’s first industry. Even today, no Down Under cookout would be complete without lamb. My choice for this dish would be steaks cut from the leg of lamb. If you have a butcher who will do this, you will be richly rewarded with an uncommonly flavorful piece of meat. Otherwise, use chops from the shoulder, loin, or rib.
Coriander and Szechuan peppercorns may not seem like traditional seasonings, but the proximity of this former British colony to Southeast Asia has made Australia one of the epicenters of Pacific Rim cuisine. The Szechuan peppercorns lend the lamb a clean, woodsy flavor that is unexpected but right on the money.
1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
4 lamb steaks, cut from the leg or shoulder (each about 8 ounces and ¾ inch thick; see Note)
1. Combine the Szechuan and black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and salt in a dry skillet (don’t use a nonstick skillet for this). Toast the spices over medium heat until the peppercorns are very fragrant, about 3 minutes, stirring or shaking the pan occasionally. Transfer the spice mixture to a spice mill and grind to a powder (you can also grind the spices in a mortar with a pestle).
2. Rub as much of the spice mixture as you wish over both sides of the lamb steaks. Place the steaks on a platter and let sit while you preheat the grill.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lamb steaks on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until cooked to taste, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Use the poke test (page 31) to check for doneness. When medium-rare the meat will be gently yielding and an instant-read meat thermometer inserted through the side of the steak will register about 145°F.
5. Transfer the steaks to serving plates or a platter. Season them with a little more of the spice mixture, if any remains, and serve at once.
NOTE: If desired, you can substitute 8 loin or 12 rib lamb chops for the steaks. Each loin chop should weigh 4 to 5 ounces and be 1½ inches thick (grill loin chops about 6 minutes per side for medium-rare); each rib chop should be about 3 ounces and 1 inch thick (grill rib chops about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare).
The Çirağan Palace (pronounced Chee-raan) is one of the world’s most celebrated hotels, an eleven-acre pleasure palace (former summer home of Sultan Abdül Aziz) located on the banks of the Bosporus on the outskirts of Istanbul. There you can get an exquisite Ottoman meal at the hotel’s Turkish restaurant, Tugğa.
I’d spent the week sampling grilled lamb at kebab parlors and street stalls. What a refreshing change of pace to enjoy it in a formal dining room surrounded by chandeliers and sweeping views of the Bosporus. The chef starts with the most expensive of all cuts of lamb—tenderloin—which he marinates overnight in a mixture of olive oil, milk, and onion juice. A sauce made of charred eggplant and yogurt reinforces the smoky flavor of the lamb. Since lamb tenderloin costs a sultan’s fortune, I’ve retooled the recipe for the more affordable and readily available rack of lamb.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
24 hours for marinating the meat
FOR THE LAMB AND MARINADE
2 racks of lamb (3 to 4 pounds in all)
1 large white onion, finely chopped (enough to make ½ cup juice)
1 cup whole milk or half-and-half
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE EGGPLANT SAUCE
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2 long, slender eggplants (about 1 pound in all)
1 small green bell pepper
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the lamb and marinade: Trim most of the fat off the lamb, then scrape the rib bones clean with a sharp paring knife (or have your butcher do this). Place each rack in a large, heavy-duty resealable plastic bag and set them aside while you prepare the marinade.
2. Process the onion in a blender or food processor to a smooth puree, then strain the puree through a strainer lined with a double layer of dampened cheesecloth into a medium-size bowl; you should have about ½ cup juice. Whisk in the milk, olive oil, and black pepper. Pour half of the onion mixture over each rack of lamb in its plastic bag, then seal the bags and turn them over several times so the racks are coated with the marinade. Let the racks of lamb marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours, turning the bags several times.
3. Make the eggplant sauce: About 4 hours before you plan to grill, set a yogurt strainer, or a regular strainer lined with a double layer of dampened cheesecloth, over a small bowl. Add the yogurt to the strainer and let drain, in the refrigerator, until a firm “cheese” forms.
4. When you are ready to continue with the sauce, set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. Arrange the eggplants on the hot rack and grill, turning with tongs, until charred all over and the flesh is very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. About 10 minutes before the eggplant is done, add the bell pepper to the grate and grill, turning with tongs as necessary, until charred all over and soft. Transfer the charred vegetables to a plate and let cool. Leave the fire burning.
6. Using a paring knife, scrape the skin off the cooled eggplant and bell pepper and core and seed the pepper. Combine the vegetables in a food processor with the garlic, drained yogurt, butter, and lemon juice and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Process to a smooth puree, then transfer the sauce to a small, heavy saucepan and let come to a simmer over low heat. Cook the sauce until thick and creamy, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the sauce from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding more lemon juice and/or salt as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned. If you are planning on grilling the lamb right away, cover the sauce and keep it warm (see Note).
7. If using a gas grill, reduce the heat to medium-high; if using charcoal, the grill should now be at medium-high. If not, bump up the heat with 20 to 24 fresh coals.
8. When ready to cook, drain the lamb, setting aside the marinade. Season the racks generously with salt, then brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lamb on the hot grate, bone side up, and grill until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes per side, turning with tongs. When done, an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the rack (but not touching a bone) will register 145°F for medium-rare, 160°F for medium. Baste the racks with the reserved marinade during the first 15 minutes of cooking only. At the end, stand each rack upright to grill the ends.
9. Transfer the lamb racks to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes before carving. Spread the warm eggplant sauce over serving plates or a platter. Carve each rack into chops and arrange them on top of the sauce. Serve at once.
NOTE: The sauce may be made up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated, covered. Reheat it over low heat.
As a rule, West Africans favor stews and boiled dishes over grilled fare. But dibi (grilled lamb) is so popular in Senegal, it could qualify as an official state dish. You’ll find it being served at sidewalk stalls and roadside eateries throughout Dakar almost any time of day or night. All manner of cuts of lamb hang in sanguine glory from the walls of the stalls—chops, shoulders, legs, and organ meats. Customers simply point to the cut they want and the vendor cooks it on a simple grill, then slathers it with an oniony mustard sauce. This princely repast is served up in foil or newspaper, and it’s so good, you want to lick your fingers when you’re finished. The popularity of grilled lamb here can be explained by religion: Senegal is 95 percent Muslim. Arab traders brought the art of grilling, not to mention the love of lamb, to this West African nation.
8 loin lamb chops (each 4 to 5 ounces and 1½ inches thick), or 12 rib lamb chops (each about 3 ounces and 1 inch thick)
1 tablespoon plus ¼ cup vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
¼ cup grainy French mustard
½ teaspoon sugar (optional)
1. Brush the lamb chops lightly on both sides with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season them with salt and pepper. Place the chops on a platter and let marinate while you prepare the onion mustard sauce.
2. Combine the onion, the remaining ¼ cup of oil, and the mustard in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer gently until the onion is soft and lightly browned, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Use 3 tablespoons of water to thin the mixture to the consistency of a sauce, adding up to 1 tablespoon more, if needed. Remove the sauce from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt and/or pepper to taste, or the sugar if the sauce tastes too tart. Cover the sauce to keep warm.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the chops on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until cooked to taste, about 6 minutes per side for medium.
5. Transfer the chops to serving plates or a platter and spoon the onion mustard sauce on top. Serve at once.
The Afghan name of this dish—o be peyaz—means, literally, onion water. The lamb chops are marinated in an intensely flavored mixture of saffron, onion juice, chiles, and turmeric. Most Afghan meats are marinated for several days prior to cooking, but these chops can be grilled after a couple of hours. The recipe was inspired by the Khyber Pass restaurant in New York City. The onion juice has a tenderizing and aromatizing effect on the lamb, and it’s used throughout the Islamic world. Serve the chops with pita bread, Quick-Cook Basmati Rice (page 424), and Persian Yogurt Drink (page 63).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
2 hours for marinating the meat
INGREDIENTS
8 loin lamb chops (each 4 to 5 ounces and 1½ inches thick)
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
1½ pounds onions, peeled and quartered
1 to 3 serrano peppers or other hot chiles, minced
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Trim most of the excess fat off of the lamb chops.
2. Place the saffron in a small bowl and grind it to a fine powder with a pestle or the end of a wooden spoon. Add 1 tablespoon of warm water, stir, and let stand for 5 minutes.
3. Place the onions in a food processor and process, in batches if necessary, until they are pureed and quite watery. Transfer the pureed onions to a fine-meshed strainer and set it over a large, deep nonreactive bowl. Let the onions drain, pressing the solids with the back of a rubber spatula or wooden spoon to extract the juice; you should have about 2 cups. Discard the contents of the strainer.
4. Add the serranos, salt, turmeric, black pepper, and the soaked saffron to the onion juice. Whisk until the salt dissolves. Add the lamb chops and turn to coat thoroughly. Let the chops marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 hours, turning several times.
5. Preheat the grill to high.
6. When ready to cook, remove the chops from the marinade, drain them well, and discard the marinade. Brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the chops on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until cooked to taste, about 6 minutes per side for medium.
7. Transfer the chops to serving plates or a platter and serve at once.
One of the most sumptuous dishes in the Iranian repertoire, shishlik consists of double-thick lamb chops cut from the rack, marinated in a saffron-scented mixture of yogurt, lemon juice, and garlic. Don’t trim away too much fat—you need it to melt and baste the lamb as the chops cook. This recipe comes from Iranian cooking authority Najmieh Batmanglij, who adds homemade candied orange peel for a touch of sweetness. I’ve had good results with both commercial candied peel and strips of orange zest.
For equally delicious results, try the marinade with chicken and use the basting sauce while grilling chicken, veal, and other cuts of lamb. Serve the lamb with Persian-Style Steamed Rice (page 425).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
24 to 48 hours for marinating the meat
½ teaspoon saffron threads
2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt
½ cup fresh lemon juice
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns
2 tablespoons chopped candied orange peel, or 4 strips orange zest (each 2 by ½ inches), removed with a vegetable peeler
8 double rib lamb chops (each 5 to 6 ounces and 2 inches thick)
FOR THE SAFFRON BASTING SAUCE
¼ teaspoon saffron threads
3 tablespoons salted butter
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the marinade: Place the ½ teaspoon of saffron in a large, deep nonreactive bowl and grind to a fine powder with a pestle or the end of a wooden spoon. Add 1 tablespoon of warm water to the saffron, stir, and let stand for 10 minutes.
2. Add the yogurt, ½ cup of lemon juice, and the onion, garlic, peppercorns, and orange peel to the soaked saffron and stir to mix. Add the lamb chops, making sure they are completely submerged in the marinade. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the chops marinate, in the refrigerator, for 24 to 48 hours (the longer the better).
3. Meanwhile, prepare the saffron basting sauce: Place the ¼ teaspoon of saffron in a small, heavy nonreactive saucepan and grind it to a fine powder with a pestle or the end of a wooden spoon. Add 1 tablespoon of warm water, stir, and let stand for 10 minutes.
4. Add the butter and 3 tablespoons of lemon juice to the soaked saffron and stir over low heat until the butter melts and the basting sauce is blended and heated through. Remove the sauce from the heat and set aside.
5. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
6. When ready to cook, remove the chops from the marinade, and discard the marinade. Season the chops with salt and pepper. Brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the chops on the hot grate. Grill the chops, turning with tongs, until cooked to taste, 6 to 8 minutes per side for medium-well, which is how Iranians like their lamb (“It’s more tender that way,” explains Najmieh). After they have cooked for several minutes brush the chops several times with the saffron basting sauce.
7. Transfer the chops to serving plates or a platter and serve at once.
The lamb chops served at the stall of Muhammad Moutawakel in the Jema al-Fna probably aren’t any better than those served at a hundred other eateries in Marrakech. They just taste that way, served as they are under the open sky, amid the carnivalesque surroundings of the liveliest public square in North Africa. This recipe is extremely simple to prepare, but to get the full effect you need all three simple components: the grilled lamb, the tomato sauce, and the shallot relish.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
12 rib lamb chops (each 3 to 4 ounces and 1 inch thick)
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 pita breads
Moroccan Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
Moroccan Shallot Relish (page 445)
GRILLED LAMB WITH HERBES DE PROVENCE | FOLLOWING
1. Arrange three lamb chops flat in a row on a cutting board, ribs on the diagonal all pointing in the same direction. Run a metal skewer through the meat of all three chops at a 60 degree angle to the bones. Skewer the remaining chops the same way.
2. Combine the salt, cumin, garlic powder, and pepper in a small bowl. Using some of the spice mixture, season the lamb chops on both sides. Place the remaining spice mixture in tiny bowls for serving and set aside.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the skewered lamb chops on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the lamb is cooked to taste, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium.
5. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the chops onto serving plates. Serve the chops and pitas with a hefty dollop of tomato sauce, a spoonful of shallot relish, and a generous pinch of spice mixture.
There are probably as many versions of this tomato sauce as there are individual grill jockeys in Morocco. This one offers the refreshing taste of fresh mint.
2 large ripe tomatoes (about 1 pound)
1 large shallot, or ½ small onion, peeled
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise. Grate the tomatoes through the large holes of a four-sided grater into a shallow bowl. Grate in the shallot the same way. Stir in the mint and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.
This is about the easiest and best way I know to cook lamb chops. You find them everywhere in Provence, from backyard cookouts to country inns and roadside restaurants. The basic seasoning is Herbes de Provence, a fragrant mixture of rosemary, thyme, marjoram, savory, basil, bay leaf, and—for a touch of sweetness—fennel and lavender. Herbes de Provence is sold in most gourmet shops, often in decorative jars at inflated prices. But it’s easy to make your own for a lot less money so I’ve provided a recipe.
12 rib lamb chops (each 3 to 4 ounces and 1 inch thick)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 lemons
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons Herbes de Provence (page 491)
1. Arrange the chops in a nonreactive baking dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Place the olive oil in a small bowl, then cut one lemon in half and squeeze the juice from both halves into the oil and whisk to blend. Set half aside for basting.
2. Brush the lamb chops on both sides with the remaining olive oil mixture and season the chops with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the chops with 2 tablespoons of the Herbes de Provence and let them marinate, at room temperature, for 10 minutes.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lamb chops on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until cooked to taste, about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. As the lamb chops cook, baste them from time to time with the remaining olive oil mixture.
5. Transfer the grilled chops to a platter and season them with the remaining Herbes de Provence. Serve at once, accompanied by the remaining lemon, cut into wedges.
Arresting in their simple beauty, these kebabs caught my eye in a shop window on the rue de la Huchette in Paris. This area, a warren of medieval lanes on the Left Bank has become the Plaka of Paris, lined with dozens of Greek restaurants and grill joints. I love the idea of putting whole lamb chops on kebabs—you get to gnaw on the bones after you eat the meat. Serve the chops with Grilled Polenta (page 433).
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
1 large onion, peeled
1 large green bell pepper
12 rib lamb chops (each 3 to 4 ounces and 1 inch thick)
8 ripe plum tomatoes
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried mint
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed, for brushing
4 pita breads
1. Cut the onion into eight wedges and break each wedge into segments. Core and seed the bell pepper, then cut it into strips 1½ inches long and ½ inch wide.
2. Thread the ingredients for the kebabs onto the skewers in the following sequence: first a lamb chop, then a piece of onion, a piece of bell pepper, a tomato (skewered crosswise), another piece of onion, piece of bell pepper, and lamb chop, more onion and bell pepper, a tomato, more onion and bell pepper, and another lamb chop. Run the metal skewer through the meat of each chop at a 60 degree angle to the bone. Arrange the kebabs on a platter or baking sheet, cover them loosely with plastic wrap, and set aside, in the refrigerator, until ready to grill.
3. Combine the salt, black pepper, mint, oregano, and rosemary in a small bowl, crumbling the rosemary between your fingers. Brush the skewered chops and vegetables all over with some olive oil and season them generously with some of the spice mixture.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the lamb is cooked to taste, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium. As the kebabs cook, brush them with more olive oil and season them with more of the spice mix.
6. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the chops onto serving plates. Serve the chops at once with the pitas.
Shish kebab is Turkey’s most celebrated kebab (although the average Turk eats it far less often than ground lamb kebabs). There are probably as many versions in Turkey as there are individual cooks. This one—from the restaurant Develi in Istanbul—owes its tangy flavor to a twenty-four-hour soak in olive oil and yogurt. Contrary to American versions of the dish, Turkish shish kebab rarely comes with vegetables on the same skewer as the meat. Rather, the vegetables are grilled on separate skewers, so each can be cooked the proper length of time.
For the tenderest possible kebabs, use lamb tenderloin or loin. You can also use leg or shoulder meat, but the kebabs will be a little tougher. It doesn’t hurt to intersperse lean pieces of lamb with a few fatty pieces; the fat will tenderize the lean meat as it melts.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
24 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
6 long metal skewers, including 2 flat ones for the vegetables
INGREDIENTS
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper flakes, or 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds boneless loin or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
8 ripe plum tomatoes or small round tomatoes
12 bull’s horn peppers (see page 502), stemmed
4 pita breads
2 tablespoons ground sumac (optional), for serving
1. Combine the yogurt, olive oil, garlic, pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper in a nonreactive bowl. Add the lamb cubes and toss to coat thoroughly. Let the lamb marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 24 hours, stirring once or twice.
2. Remove the lamb from the marinade and discard the marinade. Thread the cubes of meat onto the thin skewers, alternating lean and fatty pieces. Thread the tomatoes onto a separate, flat skewer; thread the bull’s horn peppers onto another flat skewer.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange all of the kebabs on the hot grate, and grill, turning with tongs, until the skins on the vegetables are blistered and browned and the lamb is browned and done to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all for well-done.
5. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the lamb and vegetables onto serving plates, dividing the vegetables evenly. Serve at once, accompanied by the pitas and sumac (if using) for sprinkling on top.
HOW TO UNSKEWER SHISH KEBABS
Shish kebab is one of the most world’s most beloved methods for cooking meats, especially lamb. But unskewering the meat can be challenging—as anyone knows who’s tried to unskewer a kebab too vigorously and then sent cubes of meat sailing across the dining room.
Cooks in the Near East and Central Asia have developed an ingenious method for unskewering kebabs. They hold the end of the skewer in one hand and grab the meat with the other, using a piece of pita bread or a sheet of lavash as a pot holder. They pull the meat toward them a tiny bit to loosen it from the skewer, then slide it off the skewer onto the plate.
There is nothing exotic about the flavorings here; they just happen to produce exceptionally tasty lamb. Kebabs are a culinary common denominator in Morocco, found at palatial restaurants, open-air cook shops, and just about everywhere in between. The secret to good kebabs is to intersperse the lean meat with cubes of fatty meat or lamb fat—preferably from the tail. I’ve given a range of marinating times: Thirty minutes of marinating will give you tasty lamb for a week-night supper; eight hours will give you incredibly rich flavored lamb for a special occasion. Serve the kebabs with Grilled Zucchini Salad (page 98).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes to 8 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 to 6 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
1 medium-size onion, grated
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1½ to 2 pounds boneless leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
4 pita breads
1. Combine the onion, parsley, cilantro, cumin, paprika, pepper, salt, and olive oil in a large bowl and stir to mix. Add the lamb cubes and toss to coat thoroughly. Let the lamb marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 30 minutes, or up to 8 hours (the longer the better).
2. Remove the lamb from the marinade and discard the marinade. Thread the cubes of meat onto the skewers, dividing them evenly and alternating lean and fatty pieces.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well-done (as the Moroccans tend to like their lamb).
5. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the lamb onto serving plates. Serve at once.
Souvlaki is the Greek version of shish kebab, a popular street food consisting of lamb bathed in a tangy marinade of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and bay leaves and grilled over blazing coals. The retsina (a Greek wine flavored with resin) in this recipe isn’t strictly traditional, nor is flambéing the souvlakis with Metaxa (Greek brandy). But both beverages would be served at a Greek barbecue, and both add flavor and drama to the meat, and so I decided to add them. The purist could omit them. Serve the souvlaki with pita bread, Yogurt-Cucumber Salad with Mint (page 85), and A Different Greek Salad (page 110).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
6 to 24 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Greek
¼ cup retsina wine or dry red wine
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
4 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Greek
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds boneless leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
1 medium-size onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
⅓ cup Metaxa (Greek brandy) or other brandy
Lemon wedges, for serving
4 pita breads, for serving
1. Combine the olive oil, wine, and lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl and whisk to blend. Stir in the bay leaves, garlic, oregano, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Add the cubes of lamb and toss to coat thoroughly, then let marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 6 hours, or up to 24 hours.
2. Remove the lamb from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and thread the cubes of meat onto the skewers, alternating them with pieces of onion.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well-done (as Greeks tend to like their lamb). Brush the kebabs as they cook with the reserved marinade (but not during the last 3 minutes) and season them with salt and pepper.
5. Transfer the souvlakis to a heatproof platter. Warm the Metaxa in a small saucepan over very low heat; do not allow it to boil or even become hot. Remove the pan from the heat and then, making sure your sleeves are rolled up, light a long match and use it to ignite the brandy, averting your face as you do so. Very carefully pour the flaming brandy over the souvlakis and serve at once, accompanied by lemon wedges and pitas.
Shish kebab is common currency in the cuisines of the Middle and Near East and Central Asia. The Armenian version owes its richness to the addition of tomato paste to the marinade—a tangy mixture of red wine, olive oil, and wine vinegar. This recipe is equally delicious prepared with beef. Either way the shish kebabs go well with lavash and bulgur, and with Grilled Eggplant, Tomato, and Pepper Salad (page 96), and Onion Relish with Pomegranate Molasses (page 446).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
8 to 24 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
½ cup dry red wine
¼ cup tomato paste
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon dried marjoram or summer savory
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
1½ pounds boneless leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
24 pearl onions, peeled and cut in half, or 2 medium-size onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
Lavash (flat bread), for serving
1. Combine the red wine, tomato paste, olive oil, and wine vinegar in a large nonreactive bowl and whisk to blend. Stir in the chopped onion, garlic, marjoram, salt, black pepper, hot pepper flakes, and allspice. Add the cubes of lamb and toss to coat thoroughly, then cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for at least 8 hours, or up to 24 hours.
2. Remove the lamb from the marinade and discard the marinade. Thread the cubes of meat onto the skewers, alternating them with pearl onion halves and bell pepper pieces.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well-done.
5. Using a piece of lavash to protect your hand, unskewer the lamb and vegetables onto serving plates and serve at once.
Alexandre Dumas was one of the most prolific and beloved novelists of the nineteenth century, writing such classics as The Count of Monte Cristo and The Man in the Iron Mask. What you may or may not know is that he was also a passionate trencherman, and in addition to penning a volume entitled Le grand dictionnaire de cuisine, he wrote extensively about the food he encountered during his travels.
The following recipe was inspired by Dumas’ travels through the Caucasus Mountains in 1859. Concerning the cooking equipment, he imparts some curious advice, quoted in Darra Goldstein’s fine book The Georgian Feast: “Even if you don’t have a skewer or happen to be traveling in a place where skewers are unknown, you can always substitute something else. Throughout my travels the cleaning-rod of my rifle served as a skewer, and I didn’t notice any harm to the worthiness of my weapon from using it in this humble role.”
Amen!
I’ve embellished Dumas’ original recipe, adding a distinctive traditional Georgian mixture of spices called khmeli-suneli. I think you’ll find the results incredibly aromatic. You probably haven’t tasted ground marigold before; it’s available at markets specializing in Russian products. On page 248 you’ll find a description of sumac. Serve these kebabs with grilled tomatoes, Georgian Pickled Plum Sauce (page 467), and Georgian Pickles (page 442).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 to 8 hours for marinating the meat
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon dried dill
½ teaspoon dried basil
½ teaspoon dried mint
½ teaspoon ground marigold (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (Dumas calls them “walnut size”)
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
1 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil, for basting
2 tablespoons ground sumac (optional), for serving
1. Combine the coriander, dill, basil, mint, ground marigold (if using), and 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of pepper in a large bowl. Add the lamb and toss to coat thoroughly. Let marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 30 minutes.
2. Add the onion and wine vinegar to the lamb, tossing again to mix well. Re-cover the lamb and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for at least another 30 minutes, up to 8 hours total (the longer it marinates, the tangier the lamb).
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, thread the lamb onto the skewers. Brush and oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well-done. Brush the kebabs several times as they cook with olive oil and season them with salt and pepper.
5. Unskewer the lamb onto serving plates and serve at once, accompanied by ground sumac (if using) for sprinkling.
