MORTON BAY “BUGS” WITH GINGER-MINT BUTTER | FOLLOWING
I’ve often pondered how early man figured out how to eat oysters. Certainly not with an oyster knife! I like to think he placed them on the coals of a campfire and let the smoky heat open the shells. And while you may not think of the grill when it comes to cooking shellfish, grilling remains one of the best methods I know for cooking clams, mussels, shrimp, and even lobster.
This chapter will introduce you to the world of grilled shellfish, from Greek grilled octopus to Caribbean shrimp grilled on skewers made of sugar cane. You’ll find out how Australians cook their famous shrimp “on the barbie,” not to mention their beloved Morton Bay “bugs” (rock lobsters).
Grilling is a great way to cook lobster. It keeps shrimp moist and soft-shell crabs crackling crisp. Broaden your repertoire with the likes of Flaming Prawns, Penganese Grilled Shrimp with Painfully Hot Salsa, and Bahamian Grilled Conch.
Shellfish never tasted so good!
I love the affectionate disrespect that fishermen everywhere seem to have for Neptune’s noblest creature. That is, whether you buy lobsters from a fisherman on the coast of Maine or in Morton Bay, Australia, you’re likely to hear them called “bugs.” The Morton Bay “bug” is one of Australia’s most prized shellfish, a clawless crustacean similar to a Florida (or rock or spiny) lobster. I call for lobster tails in the recipe here, but you could also use Maine lobster or spot prawns—even jumbo shrimp would take to this preparation, as well. Ginger, lime, and mint create an explosively flavorful butter that is brushed on the lobster as it grills. The preparation is simple, but powerfully good.
4 lobster tails (8 to 9 ounces each), thawed if frozen, or 4 live Maine lobsters (1¼ to 1½ pounds each)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, or 2 teaspoons dried mint
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce or soy sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. If using lobster tails, cut them in half lengthwise with kitchen shears or a sharp, heavy knife; use a fork to remove the intestinal vein that runs the length of the tail.
If using live lobsters, kill each by inserting a sharp knife in the back of the head between the eyes; this will dispatch them instantly (or see the box below). Cut the lobsters in half lengthwise and remove the vein and the papery gray sac from the head. Break off the claws and crack them with a chef’s knife.
2. Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the mint, ginger, garlic, and lime zest and increase the heat to medium. Cook the butter mixture until it is fragrant but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce and lime juice and bring to a boil, then remove the ginger-mint butter from the heat.
3. Brush the cut sides of the lobster tails or lobsters with some of the ginger-mint butter and season them with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lobster tails or lobster halves and claws, cut side down, on the hot grate and grill for 4 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, turn the lobster and grill on the shell side until the flesh is firm and white, 4 to 8 minutes longer, brushing it generously several times with the ginger-mint butter.
6. Transfer the lobster to serving plates or a platter and pour any remaining ginger-mint butter over them. Serve at once with lemon wedges.
This imposing dish is the speciality of a New Age inn called Hostellerie des Trois Forces in St. Barthélemy. Astrologer-chef Hubert Delamotte makes it with spiny lobster, which has a broad tail and fiercely barbed carapace, but no claws. If you live in Florida or Texas, the equivalent would be a “Florida” lobster. Maine lobster can be prepared the same way. Whichever lobster you use, you’ll surely enjoy the way the fragrance of the basil brings out the sweetness of the lobster meat. Serve the lobster with Grilled Polenta (page 433).
4 lobster tails (8 to 9 ounces each), thawed if frozen, or 4 live Maine lobsters (1¼ to 1½ pounds each)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, melted
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
1 to 2 limes, cut in half
1. If using lobster tails, cut them in half lengthwise with kitchen shears or a sharp, heavy knife; use a fork to remove the intestinal vein that runs the length of the tail.
If using live lobsters, kill each by inserting a sharp knife in the back of the head between the eyes; this will dispatch them instantly (or see the previous box). Cut the lobsters in half lengthwise and remove the vein and the papery gray sac from the head. Break off the claws and crack with a chef’s knife.
2. Brush the cut sides of the lobster tails or lobsters with some of the melted butter and season them with salt and pepper to taste. Place the remaining melted butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, add the chopped basil, and let simmer for 2 minutes.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lobster tails or lobster halves and claws, cut side down, on the hot grate and grill for 4 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, turn the lobster and grill on the shell side until the flesh is firm and white, 4 to 8 minutes longer, squeezing lime juice over the lobster as it cooks and brushing generously several times with the basil butter.
5. Transfer the lobster to serving plates or a platter and serve at once, accompanied by the remaining basil butter in ramekins on the side.
My wife and I first tasted this dish on our honeymoon in Saint Barthélemy in 1990. The place was a tiny beach restaurant called the Marigot Bay Club, run by a fisherman friend named Michel Ledée. The lobster had emerged from the water about an hour before we ate it. To enjoy it any fresher, we’d have had to have dined in bathing suits!
Michel’s Creole sauce has complex layers of flavor: the bass tones of garlic and scallions, the brassy notes of thyme and lime juice, and the shrill accent of Scotch bonnet–based hot sauce. I note with sadness that Michel died tragically while rescuing his daughter from a swimming accident. This recipe is dedicated to his memory.
4 lobster tails (8 to 9 ounces each), thawed if frozen, or 4 live Maine lobsters (1¼ to 1½ pounds each)
4 tablespoons lard (see Note)
½ cup finely chopped shallots
4 scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup ketchup
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, preferably a Scotch bonnet–based sauce such as Matouk’s, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. If using lobster tails, cut them in half lengthwise with kitchen shears or a sharp, heavy knife; use a fork to remove the intestinal vein that runs the length of the tail.
If using live lobsters, kill each by inserting a sharp knife in the back of the head between the eyes; this will dispatch them instantly (or see the previous box). Cut the lobsters in half lengthwise and remove the vein and the papery gray sac from the head. Break off the claws and crack them with a chef’s knife. Refrigerate the lobster, covered, while you prepare the Creole sauce.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the lard in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots, scallions, garlic, parsley, and thyme and cook until the shallots and scallions are lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the ketchup, lime juice, hot pepper sauce, and ⅔ cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer gently, uncovered, until the sauce is thickened and nicely flavored, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste and more lime juice and/or hot pepper sauce as necessary; the Creole sauce should be highly seasoned.
3. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of lard in a small saucepan over low heat, then brush it over the cut side of the lobster tails or lobsters. Season the lobster with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the lobster tails or lobster halves and claws, cut side down, on the hot grill grate and grill for 4 to 8 minutes. Turn the lobster, using tongs, and spoon the Creole sauce over it, dividing the sauce evenly. Grill the lobster on the shell side until the flesh is firm and white, 4 to 8 minutes longer.
6. Transfer the lobster to serving plates or a platter and serve at once.
NOTE: Lard may seem like a strange, even off-putting ingredient, but it’s often used for basting at French barbecues. Here it is used as a base for the Caribbean lobster seasoning. You can certainly substitute melted butter or oil.
South Africans have an ingenious way of preparing rock lobster for grilling. They snip open the thin shell covering the bottom of the tail. Then they cook the lobster in the shell, belly side up, using the indirect method. This keeps the lobster moist and tender—ideal for rock or spiny lobsters. There is nothing flashy about the basting sauce used with the lobsters, but the butter, wine, and Worcestershire add a world of flavor without masking the pristine taste of the lobster.
4 live spiny or rock lobsters (1¼ to 1½ pounds each), or 4 lobster tails (8 to 9 ounces each), thawed if frozen
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. If using live lobsters, kill each by inserting a sharp knife in the back of the head between the eyes; this will dispatch them instantly (or see the box on page 354). Then, using kitchen shears, make 4 cuts, 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise, in the “belly” side of the tail; remove the thin shell.
If using lobster tails, using kitchen shears or a sharp, heavy knife, cut them in half lengthwise through the top shell but not all the way through the underside. Open out the tails like a butterfly. Using a fork, remove the intestinal vein that runs the length of the tail.
Set the lobsters or lobster tails aside while you prepare the basting and serving sauce.
2. Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, white wine, garlic, parsley, and cayenne and let simmer gently until the garlic is fragrant and has lost its raw edge, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat, taste for seasoning, and add salt and black pepper to taste and more cayenne as necessary. Set half of the sauce aside for serving.
3. Set up the grill for indirect grilling. No drip pan is necessary for this recipe. Preheat the grill to medium (see Note).
4. When ready to cook, place the lobsters or lobster tails in the center of the grate, belly side up, and brush them generously with the basting sauce. Cover the grill and cook the lobster until the flesh is firm and white, 30 to 40 minutes for lobsters and 20 to 30 minutes for tails. Brush the exposed lobster meat once or twice with the basting sauce as it grills.
5. Transfer the lobsters to serving plates or a platter and serve at once, accompanied by the reserved sauce in ramekins for dipping.
NOTE: The lobster tails may also be grilled over direct heat: Preheat the grill to high and cook the tails cut side down for 4 to 8 minutes to sear the meat. Using tongs, turn the tails over and cook, cut side up, until the flesh is firm and white, 4 to 8 minutes longer. Brush the lobsters with the basting sauce as they cook and again just before serving.
Like all crustaceans, crabs periodically shed their shells to make room for future growth. Soft-shell crabs are freshly molted blue crabs. You eat the molted crab carapace and all; the crabs are in season from May through August. Most recipes call for soft-shells to be panfried or deep-fried. Grilling produces great-tasting crabs with a fraction of the fat. You still get the wonderful soft-shell crab flavor and texture: briny as the ocean and potato-chip crisp.
The crabs should be live when you buy them. Ask the fishmonger to clean them, and always cook them the same day you buy them. Serve the crabs with Grilled Garlic Bread Fingers (page 126) and Your Basic Slaw (page 460).
FOR THE TARTAR SAUCE
1 cup good-quality mayonnaise
1 to 2 fresh or pickled jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or more to taste
1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or trimmed scallion greens
1 tablespoon chopped sour pickles, preferably cornichons
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or basil
Salt (optional)
FOR THE CRABS
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, or ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
12 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Make the tartar sauce: Combine the mayonnaise, jalapeños, mustard, lime juice, capers, chives, pickles, and tarragon in a small bowl and whisk thoroughly to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and/or more lime juice as necessary; the tartar sauce should be highly seasoned. Set the tartar sauce aside until serving time (see Note).
2. Prepare the crabs: Combine the melted butter and lemon juice in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Brush the crabs on both sides with some of the lemon butter and season them generously with salt and pepper.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the crabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the shells are bright red, 3 to 6 minutes per side. Brush the crabs with the remaining lemon butter once or twice as they cook.
5. Transfer the crabs to serving plates or a platter and serve at once, accompanied by the tartar sauce.
NOTE: The tartar sauce can be made up to 2 days ahead of time. Refrigerate it, covered.
Prawns the size of lobsters, grilled crackling crisp in the shells, basted with a succulent, sweet-salty mixture of butter and sweet soy sauce—this is one of the specialties of Jakarta’s famous fish house, Sunda Kelapa, and those prawns are delicious enough to eat with your hands, which is what most of the customers do. We can’t get those huge prawns here, but if you live in the Pacific Northwest or Hawaii, try making this recipe with spot prawns; otherwise, use jumbo shrimp in the shells. Serve this with the Javanese Long Bean Salad Plate with Cabbage Wedges (page 114), Penang Shallot Relish (page 444), and steamed rice.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis), or 1½ tablespoons each regular soy sauce and molasses
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1½ pounds spot prawns or jumbo shrimp, deveined and butterflied (see box, page 361), shells left on
1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then remove it from the heat and stir in the sweet soy sauce and lime juice. Rinse the prawns under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. Brush the cut sides of the prawns with some of the butter mixture.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
3. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the prawns, cut side down, on the hot grate and grill until lightly browned on that side, about 2 minutes. Brush the shell sides with the butter mixture and, using tongs, turn the prawns over. Grill the prawns until lightly browned on the second side and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes longer, brushing them once or twice more with the butter mixture.
4. Transfer the prawns to serving plates or a platter, pour any remaining butter mixture over them, and serve at once.
Guadeloupe is famous throughout the Caribbean for a large, sweet-fleshed shellfish known as oassou (pronounced wa-sou). Although commonly translated as crayfish, the oassou is actually a type of prawn. The preferred cooking method is grilling: The shellfish are skewered, heads and all, and roasted over glowing coals. Oassous are not available in the U.S. (at least not yet), but the spot prawns found in Hawaii and the Pacific Northwest have a similar flavor. Jumbo shrimp can be prepared the same way.
In Guadeloupe (this is part of France, after all), the oassou would be accompanied by a beurre blanc (butter sauce) flavored with a French West Indian curry powder called colombo, available in West Indian markets. My version of the sauce offers you the option of using colombo or a standard (though good-quality) curry powder.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes to 1 hour for marinating the shellfish
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
FOR THE PRAWN BROCHETTES AND MARINADE
20 spot prawns or jumbo shrimp in the shell
1 onion, halved crosswise, each half cut into 6 to 8 wedges
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch squares
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE BEURRE BLANC
1 cup dry white wine
¼ cup white wine vinegar
⅓ cup minced shallots
1½ teaspoons colombo powder, homemade (page 497) or store-bought, or good-quality regular curry powder, or more to taste
¼ cup heavy (whipping) cream
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the prawn brochettes and marinade: Rinse the prawns under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. Thread the prawns lengthwise onto the skewers, dividing them evenly and threading a chunk of onion and a piece of bell pepper between each. Place the prawn brochettes on a platter and set aside while you prepare the marinade.
2. Combine the lime juice, olive oil, and garlic in a small bowl and whisk to mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Brush some of the marinade over the brochettes and set aside the rest for brushing on the brochettes later. Cover the brochettes loosely with plastic wrap and let them marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Make the beurre blanc: Place the white wine, wine vinegar, shallots, and colombo powder in a small, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and stir to mix. Let the wine mixture boil, uncovered, until reduced to about ¼ cup, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the cream and let boil, uncovered, until the mixture is reduced to about ¼ cup, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the butter, one piece at a time, whisking continuously to obtain an emulsified sauce. Wait until each piece of butter is thoroughly incorporated before adding the next. Once all the butter has been added remove the pan from the heat; do not allow the beurre blanc to boil or it may curdle. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste and more colombo powder as necessary; the beurre blanc should be highly seasoned. Set the beurre blanc aside until serving time, keeping it warm on a shelf over the stove or in a pan of hot (not boiling) water. Do not place it over direct heat or it may curdle.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the brochettes on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the prawn shells turn bright red and the flesh is opaque, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Brush the brochettes with the reserved marinade once or twice as they grill.
6. Using a fork, slide the prawns and vegetables off the skewers onto serving plates and serve at once, accompanied by the beurre blanc.
The prettiest kebabs I’ve ever seen were prepared on the rue de la Huchette in the Latin Quarter of Paris. This warren of narrow streets—one of the oldest neighborhoods in Paris—is home to dozens of Greek restaurants, each one vying to outdo the next with the drama of its shish kebabs. Everything is fair game for a skewer—lamb, beef, tightly coiled merguez (Moroccan sausage), seafoods ranging from oval, bright orange salmon steaks to jumbo prawns with their heads still attached. The kebabs are composed with the precision of a Swiss watchmaker and a painterly eye to form and color. Subtle variations distinguish the kebabs of one establishment from another. The kebabs here feature an aromatic rub of oregano, thyme, and rosemary. You’re not actually meant to eat the grilled lemon but it sure imparts a great flavor.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
FOR THE HERB RUB
1 tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
FOR THE KEBABS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp or spot prawns (2 pounds if using ones with the heads on, which is preferable), deveined, shells left on (see box, page 361)
2 medium-size onions, peeled
1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges
12 large cherry tomatoes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed for brushing
Pita bread, for serving
1. Make the herb rub: Combine the salt, white pepper, oregano, rosemary, and thyme in a bowl, crumbling the rosemary between your fingers. Set aside.
2. Prepare the kebabs: Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. Cut each onion lengthwise into 4 wedges and cut each wedge crosswise in half. Cut each bell pepper quarter crosswise into 4 equal pieces.
3. Arrange the ingredients for the kebabs on a cutting board, then assemble the kebabs. Here’s a sequence I like (but feel free to follow any you desire): a lemon wedge (cut edge toward you), a piece of bell pepper, a wedge of onion, a shrimp (underside facing you) with a cherry tomato placed in the hollow space formed by the curve in the shrimp, another piece of bell pepper and onion, another shrimp with a tomato, and more bell pepper and onion. Follow these with another shrimp with a tomato, more bell pepper and onion, and, finally, another lemon wedge (cut edge away from you). Run a skewer through these ingredients to make an attractive kebab, then thread the remaining kebabs the same way (see Note).
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush the kebabs on both sides with olive oil and sprinkle some of the herb rub over them. Brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill until the shrimp flesh is firm and pink and the tomatoes and onions are lightly charred, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the kebabs once or twice with additional olive oil and season them liberally with the herb rub as they grill.
6. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the kebabs onto plates and serve with pitas.
NOTE: The kebabs may be prepared up to 6 hours ahead of time. Refrigerate them, loosely covered with plastic wrap.
Like much grilled fare, this recipe is simplicity itself, but the addition of three commonplace seasonings to shrimp grilled in the shells makes an irresistible combination. I first heard about the preparation from my friend, travel correspondent Jane Wooldridge. Sure enough, when I tasted it in Saigon, I understood Jane’s enthusiasm. In Vietnam the shrimp would be grilled with the heads and shells intact and this, indeed, enhances the flavor. If you live in a coastal region, you may be lucky enough to find shrimp with heads on. At the very least, try to use shrimp in the shells.
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp (2 pounds if using shrimp with the heads on), deveined, shells left on (see box, following)
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus 1 large, juicy lime
3 teaspoons coarse salt, preferably sea salt
3 teaspoons freshly ground white pepper
1. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. Place the shrimp in a large nonreactive baking dish, sprinkle the lime juice and 1 teaspoon each salt and white pepper over them, and toss to coat. Let the shrimp marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cut the lime lengthwise into 4 wedges. Put a lime wedge in each of 4 tiny shallow bowls or dishes. Place a small mound of salt (½ teaspoon) on one side of the lime wedge and a mound of white pepper (½ teaspoon) on the other. Set aside.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp, in their shells, on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the meat is firm and pink, about 2 minutes per side.
5. Transfer the shrimp to serving plates. To eat, squeeze the lime wedge over the salt and pepper and stir two or three times with chopsticks; peel the shrimp and dip it in the lime mixture.
Shrimp “on the barbie,” aka grill, is Australia’s most famous culinary export. Even if you know nothing else about Down Under cooking, you’re surely aware of how much Australians love grilling—especially seafood. If the truth be told, shrimp is something of a misnomer, as most Australians would say “prawns.” The Chinese roots of this dish are obvious—a legacy of the huge influx of Asian immigrants to Australia in the 1970s and 80s. I love the way the sweetness of the honey and five-spice powder play off the nuttiness of the sesame seeds and sesame oil and the brininess of the shrimp and soy sauce.
HOW TO PEEL AND DEVEIN SHRIMP
Shrimp is delectable grilled both in and out of the shell—leaving the shell on keeps the shrimp moist and flavorful—but sooner or later that shell has got to come off.
TO PEEL A RAW SHRIMP BY HAND: Pull off the legs; this will open up the shell on the underside. Loosen the shrimp from the shell with your fingers, then pull it free. Make sure you get all of the shell; the only part you might want to leave on, for aesthetic reasons, is the feathery tail.
TO DEVEIN A PEELED SHRIMP: The classic way is to cut a V-shaped groove down the back of the shrimp; the groove should be just deep enough to include the vein. Remove the wedge of flesh and the vein will come with it.
There’s a lightning-quick method for deveining a peeled shrimp, one taught to me by a Louisianan. Insert the tine of a fork in the back of the shrimp, midway between the head and tail. Pull the fork gently away from the shrimp and the vein will come with it.
HONEY SESAME SHRIMP “ON THE BARBIE” | PAGE 361
30 minutes to 1 hour for marinating the shrimp
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined (see box, page 361)
5 tablespoons Asian (dark) sesame oil
3 tablespoons rice wine, sake, or dry sherry
3 tablespoons soy sauce
4½ teaspoons honey
4½ teaspoons sesame seeds
1 tablespoon Thai sweet chile sauce (optional; see Note)
½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with the side of a cleaver
2 slices (¼ inch thick) peeled fresh ginger
2 scallions, trimmed, white part flattened with the side of a cleaver, green part finely chopped and set aside for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
1. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine 3 tablespoons of the sesame oil, the rice wine, soy sauce, honey, sesame seeds, chile sauce (if using), and five-spice powder in a large bowl and whisk to blend. Stir in the garlic, ginger, scallion whites, and shrimp and toss to coat, then cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp from the marinade to a bowl and toss it with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sesame oil. Pour the marinade into a saucepan. Using the slotted spoon, remove and discard the garlic, ginger, and scallion whites. Bring the marinade to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, uncovered, until it is a thick, syrupy glaze, about 3 minutes. Remove the glaze from the heat and set aside.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with the glaze as they cook.
6. Transfer the shrimp to serving plates or a platter, sprinkle the scallion greens on top, and serve with lime wedges.
NOTE: Thais use sweet chile sauce like Americans use ketchup. Many supermarkets carry it (one good brand is A Taste of Thai), but if it’s not available, simply omit it.
This recipe takes its inspiration from Bahia in northern Brazil. Bahia has been called the New Orleans of Brazil. Nowhere are African influences on Brazilian cooking more evident or more delicious. Coconut milk, cilantro, fiery chiles, and peanuts are the cornerstones of Bahian cooking. They come together here to provide a rich, hauntingly flavorful sauce for grilled shrimp.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes for marinating the shrimp
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
8 long bamboo skewers and an aluminum foil shield (see box, page 23)
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined (see box, page 361)
¾ cup coconut milk, canned or homemade (page 114)
¼ cup fresh lime juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
½ medium-size green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
½ medium-size red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (see box, page 454), then finely chopped
1¼ cups coconut milk, canned or homemade (page 114)
½ cup creamy peanut butter
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped peanuts, toasted (see box, page 113), for garnish
1. Prepare the shrimp and marinade: Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the ¾ cup of coconut milk, ¼ cup of lime juice, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of pepper in a large nonreactive bowl and stir to blend. Add the shrimp and toss to coat. Let the shrimp marinate at room temperature, covered, for 30 minutes.
3. Make the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the 4 cloves of garlic, scallions, ginger, and green and red bell peppers and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, increase the heat to high, and cook until some of the tomato liquid evaporates, about 1 minute.
4. Stir in the 1¼ cups of coconut milk, peanut butter, 3 tablespoons of lime juice, and half of the cilantro. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer gently, uncovered, until the sauce is well flavored and slightly thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cayenne, then taste for seasoning, adding salt and black pepper to taste and more cayenne as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned. Keep the peanut sauce warm, covered.
5. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and discard the marinade. Thread the shrimp onto the skewers.
6. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
7. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp kebabs on the hot grate with the aluminum foil shield under the ends of the skewers. Grill the shrimp, turning with tongs, until they are nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with some of the peanut sauce after turning.
8. Spoon the peanut sauce onto serving plates, dividing it evenly. Using a fork, slide the shrimp off the skewers onto the peanut sauce. Sprinkle chopped peanuts and the remaining cilantro over the shrimp and serve at once.
Ilanded in New Delhi after an eighteen-hour flight from New York. My reason for coming was simple: I wanted to sample tandoori (Indian barbecue) in its land of birth. Fortunately, I didn’t have to travel much farther: India’s most famous barbecue restaurant, Bukhara, was located in my hotel. One look at the exhibition kitchen, with its blazing tandoors and hammered copper walls hung with barbecue skewers, and I knew that I’d struck pay dirt.
A tandoor is a cross between a barbecue pit and an oven. The waist-high, urn-shaped clay vessel holds a charcoal fire in the bottom. Seafood, meats, even vegetables are roasted on vertical spits over the coals, while breads are baked directly on the tandoor’s walls.
At Bukhara, this dish would be made with huge, juicy prawns from the Bay of Bengal. In this country I’ve used both shrimp and lobster tails. Whichever shellfish you use, the exotic ginger, cream, and spice marinade makes this some of the most succulent and explosively flavorful fare you’ll taste on the world’s barbecue trail. You’ll need to know about two special ingredients: Chickpea flour (besan) is available at Indian and some Italian markets and natural foods stores; in a pinch you could substitute whole-wheat flour in place of the besan or simply omit it. Garam masala is an Indian spice mix. I have included a recipe for it in this book, but you can also use a commercial blend. And, to simulate the type of grilling done in an Indian tandoor, use the grateless grilling method outlined on page 21 to cook these shrimp.
2 hours for marinating the shrimp
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
4 long metal skewers
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined (see box, page 361)
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped peeled fresh ginger
6 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
⅔ cup heavy (whipping) cream or plain whole-milk yogurt
1 large egg
3 tablespoons chickpea flour (optional)
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon Quick Garam Masala (page 496) or a commercial blend
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons melted salted butter, for brushing
Lemon wedges, for serving
1. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the ginger, garlic, and salt in a mortar and pound to a paste with a pestle, then work in the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of the cream. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, combine all of these ingredients in a food processor or blender and process to a smooth paste.
3. Transfer the ginger-garlic paste to a large nonreactive bowl and whisk in the remaining cream, egg, chickpea flour (if using), cayenne, turmeric, cumin, garam masala, and white pepper. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and/or lemon juice as necessary; the ginger-garlic paste should be highly seasoned. Add the shrimp and toss to coat. Let the shrimp marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 hours.
4. Remove the shrimp from the bowl and discard the marinade. Thread the shrimp onto the skewers.
5. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
6. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the shrimp are nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with the melted butter once or twice as they cook.
7. Using a fork, slide the shrimp off the skewers onto serving plates or a platter and serve at once with lemon wedges.
Muhammed Ishtiyaque Qureshi comes from a long line of Indian master chefs. To look at him, you’d think he was straight out of California. A ponytail peeps out from under his toque. A gold earring gleams in one ear. Ishtiyaque is the chef of the Indian Harvest restaurant at the Leela hotel in Bombay, and his penchant for theatrics certainly extends to his cooking. Every few minutes, the dining room erupts with a volcanic roar and tower of flames from a sizzling platter of dahakte jhinga, “flaming prawns.” The show is designed to delight Japanese and Western businessmen (and their Indian hosts), but according to Ishtiyaque, there is a tradition of serving flambéed food in India. After all, Indian barbecue originated with the Mogul rulers from Persia, and Ishtiyaque claims that they seasoned their grilled fare with flaming wine.
Ishtiyaque’s prawns come from the Bay of Bengal and are the size of small lobsters. Their flavor is reinforced by a two-stage marinating process: first in vinegar, then in yogurt. In North America, either jumbo shrimp or lobster tails work well. To be strictly authentic, you’d marinate the prawns in a fruity black vinegar made from an Indian berry called jamun. I approximate its flavor by combining cider vinegar with apricot nectar. Ishtiyaque uses yogurt cheese for his marinade, but plain yogurt will produce tasty results, too.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 hour for marinating the shrimp
FOR THE SHRIMP AND VINEGAR MARINADE
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, in their shells (see Note)
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons apricot nectar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
FOR THE YOGURT MARINADE
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger
1 to 3 teaspoons cayenne pepper or hot paprika
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter, for brushing
¼ cup rum, preferably 151 proof, for flambéing
1. Prepare the shrimp and vinegar marinade: Cut each shrimp lengthwise through the belly almost all the way through to the back shell and devein them. Spread the shrimp halves open but leave them attached and in their shells. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the vinegar, apricot nectar, and lemon juice in a nonreactive baking dish large enough to hold the shrimp in a single layer. Add the shrimp, cut side down, and let marinate, at room temperature, for 15 minutes.
3. Make the yogurt marinade: Combine the yogurt, garlic, ginger, cayenne, cloves, and salt in a large nonreactive bowl and whisk to blend. Add the shrimp, turning to coat, then cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 45 minutes.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and discard the marinade. Arrange the shrimp, cut side down, on the hot grate. Grill the shrimp for 2 minutes, then turn them, using tongs, and grill until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes longer. Brush the shrimp once or twice with the melted butter as they cook.
6. Transfer the grilled shrimp to a platter. Make sure the area is clear of flammable material and that no one is standing too close. Gently warm the rum, over very low heat, in a small saucepan; do not let it boil or even get hot. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a long match, carefully ignite the rum. Very carefully pour it over the shrimp and serve at once.
NOTE: Lobster tails are also good fixed this way. You can prepare 4 lobster tails following the directions for the shrimp in Step 1 and marinating them as directed, first in the vinegar mixture and then in the yogurt. Grill as directed in Step 5, for 4 to 8 minutes per side.
Balinese shrimp satés owe their extraordinary fragrance to the skewers on which they’re cooked: fresh lemon-grass stalks. When buying lemongrass, try to choose slender stalks. But don’t worry too much if you can’t find lemongrass—satés cooked on bamboo skewers will still have plenty of flavor.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 hour for marinating the shrimp
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
12 thin stalks fresh lemongrass, trimmed of roots, tips, and outer leaves, or 12 long bamboo skewers, and an aluminum foil shield (see box, page 23)
1½ pounds extra large shrimp (about 24), peeled and deveined (see box, page 361)
¼ cup sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis), or 2 tablespoons each regular soy sauce and molasses
3 cloves garlic, minced
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons palm sugar or light brown sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the sweet soy sauce, garlic, coriander, lime juice, palm sugar, and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large bowl and whisk until blended and the sugar dissolves. Add the shrimp and toss to coat. Let the shrimp marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 1 hour.
3. Drain the shrimp. If using the lemongrass stalks as skewers, using a metal skewer, make a “starter” hole in each shrimp. Thread the shrimp on the lemongrass stalks, or on the bamboo skewers, 2 shrimp to each.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the satés on the hot grate with the aluminum foil shield under the ends of the skewers. Grill the shrimp, turning with tongs, until they are nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp once or twice with the remaining oil as they cook.
6. Transfer the satés to serving plates or a platter and serve.
This is another favorite grilled shrimp dish around my house. It’s quick, easy, and wonderfully exotic. What sets the recipe apart is the dipping sauce that accompanies the lightly marinated shrimp. Taratoor is a creamy, nutty, lemony white sauce made from sesame paste and lemon. Tahini (sesame paste) is widely available at Middle Eastern markets, natural food stores, and in many supermarkets. For a cool presentation, arrange the shrimp on a platter, cut side up, and spoon the sauce on top. In this case, I’d sprinkle the shrimp with a little chopped parsley.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes for marinating the shrimp
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
About 40 short bamboo skewers and an aluminum foil shield (see box, page 23)
FOR THE SHRIMP
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, in their shells
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR SERVING
½ cup tahini
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
3 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Pita bread, for serving
1. Cut each shrimp in half lengthwise, starting at the underside and cutting to but not through the top shell. Fold the shrimp open and devein them, then rinse them under cold running water. Drain and blot dry with paper towels. Place the shrimp in a nonreactive baking dish and sprinkle the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and 1 clove of garlic over them. Season the shrimp with salt and black pepper to taste. Let the shrimp marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 30 minutes, turning occasionally.
2. Make the taratoor: Combine the tahini, 2 cloves of garlic, ½ cup of lemon juice, and the parsley in a small bowl and whisk to mix. Whisk in enough warm water to obtain a pourable sauce (start with 3 tablespoons). Taste the taratoor for seasoning, adding salt and white pepper to taste and more lemon juice as necessary; the taratoor should be highly seasoned. Transfer the taratoor to 4 ramekins or small bowls, dividing it evenly, and set aside until serving time.
3. Remove the shrimp from the baking dish, setting aside any marinade. Arrange the shrimp flat on a work surface and pin them open crosswise with 2 skewers, one at each end.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp, cut side down, on the hot grate with the aluminum foil shield under the ends of the skewers. Grill the shrimp, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp once or twice with any reserved marinade while cooking.
6. Using a pita bread to protect your hand, unskewer the shrimp onto serving plates or a platter and serve accompanied by pitas and the taratoor for dipping.
You won’t actually find this dish in the Caribbean, although it’s made with some of the most typical ingredients of the West Indies: sugarcane (hence the plantation in the name), rum, allspice, and nutmeg. I created the recipe for a Caribbean restaurant in Hong Kong that bore the name of my book Miami Spice.
You’re not really meant to eat the sugarcane. The idea is to chew on the cane skewers as you eat the shrimp to release the sweet juices. If you’re in a hurry, simply marinate the shrimp in the honey-soy mixture and grill them. They’ll be amazing—even without the sugarcane and glaze. Serve the shrimp with Bahamian Peas and Rice (page 431).
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 hour for marinating the shrimp
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
1 package fresh sugarcane swizzle sticks (see Note)
FOR THE SHRIMP AND MARINADE
1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (about 24), peeled and deveined (see box, page 361)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
½ Scotch bonnet chile, or 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons peanut oil
FOR THE RUM GLAZE
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon dark rum
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1½ teaspoons Tabasco or other hot sauce
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare the shrimp and marinade: Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the garlic, scallions, ginger, Scotch bonnet, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons of honey, and the peanut oil in a large bowl and whisk to mix. Add the shrimp, tossing to coat. Let the shrimp marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 1 hour.
3. While the shrimp marinates, prepare the sugarcane skewers: Using a sharp knife, cut the sugarcane swizzle sticks into 3-inch lengths, slicing them sharply on the diagonal to make a sharp point. You will need one sugarcane skewer for each shrimp.
4. Make the rum glaze: Combine the ⅓ cup rum, the tomato paste, brown sugar, 1 tablespoon of honey, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, allspice, and cloves in a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until blended and the sugar melts. Reduce the heat to medium and let simmer until a syrupy glaze forms, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the rum glaze from the heat, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of rum, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and discard the marinade. Using a metal skewer, make a “starter” hole in each shrimp. Thread one shrimp on each sugarcane skewer, starting with the pointed end.
6. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
7. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with the rum glaze as they cook.
8. Transfer the shrimp to serving plates or a platter. Spoon any remaining rum glaze over the shrimp and serve at once.
NOTE: Sugarcane swizzle sticks are available at specialty food stores and many supermarkets. One good, widely distributed brand is Frieda’s.
You may be surprised to find a New Orleans–style recipe in this book: After all, grilling isn’t traditionally associated with Louisianan cooking. Indeed, the first time I tasted this dish, the shrimp were sautéed, not grilled. But grilling works great here—I love the way the smoky, charcoaled flavor of the shrimp counterpoints the lemony richness of the cream-based barbecue sauce.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 hour for marinating the shrimp
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons Cajun Rub, (page 490) or a commercial brand of Cajun seasoning
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
3 bay leaves
2 lemons, peeled, cut into thin crosswise slices, and seeded
2 cups bottled clam broth or water
½ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup dry white wine
2 cups heavy (whipping) cream
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Peel and devein the shrimp (see box, page 361), leaving the feathery tail shells intact and setting aside the shells. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Place the shrimp in a large bowl and sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 4½ teaspoons of the Creole seasoning over them. Rub the oil and seasonings into the shrimp with your hands to coat well, then cover them and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 1 hour.
3. While the shrimp marinates, make the barbecue sauce. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until just beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the reserved shrimp shells, the remaining 4½ teaspoons of Creole seasoning, and the bay leaves, lemon slices, clam broth, Worcestershire sauce, and white wine. Bring to a boil, stirring, then reduce the heat to medium and let simmer, uncovered, until only about 1½ cups of liquid remain, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Strain the barbecue sauce mixture into a second saucepan and place it over high heat. Let the sauce boil, uncovered, until thick, syrupy, and dark brown, about 15 minutes, stirring it often to prevent scorching; you should have about ½ cup. Whisk in the cream and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and cook the barbecue sauce mixture until only about 2 cups of liquid remain, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and whisk in the butter until melted. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste; the sauce should be highly seasoned. Set ½ cup of the sauce aside for basting. Keep the remaining sauce warm, covered, for serving.
5. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
6. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp on the hot grate and brush some of the ½ cup barbecue sauce on it. Grill the shrimp until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp liberally with the barbecue sauce once or twice as they cook.
7. Transfer the shrimp to a serving platter and serve at once, topped with the remaining barbecue sauce.
The mere mention of Penang is enough to make most Malaysians’ mouths water. This tropical island off the northeastern coast is reputed to have some of the best food in Asia—a reputation easily verified by visiting the food stalls on Gurney Drive. You’d expect the fiendishly hot nam choh (shallot “salsa”) in this recipe to overpower the delicate butter and coconut milk–basted shrimp, but in fact it does just the opposite: The heat seems to sensitize your taste buds to the mild, sweet flavor of the shrimp.
You’ll need to know about one special ingredient to prepare this recipe: shrimp paste (called belacan in Malaysian and trassi in Indonesian), a pungent paste made from fermented shrimp and salt. Despite its off-putting aroma, shrimp paste adds a complex and pleasing flavor that has endeared it to chefs from one end of Southeast Asia to the other. Toasting helps mellow the nose-jarring smell of the paste. It can be found at Asian markets and in some specialty food shops. In a pinch you can use a dab of anchovy paste or a teaspoon or two of fish sauce (omitting the toasting, of course). Malaysians use shrimp with the heads still on, which are not that easy to find in this country. If you can get them, by all means use them.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
8 long bamboo skewers and an aluminum foil shield (see box, page 23)
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp (2 pounds if using shrimp with the heads on), shells left on
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) salted butter, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon shrimp paste
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste
1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
¾ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
¾ cup thinly sliced shallots
6 to 8 Thai chiles or serrano peppers, seeded and thinly sliced (for a hotter salsa, leave the seeds in)
1 cup coconut milk, canned or homemade (page 114), for brushing
1. Devein the shrimp (see box, page 361), then run a knife along the top of each to make the slit deeper, because you will be stuffing the shrimp with butter. Rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels. Spread the butter inside the slits in the shrimp, then thread the shrimp lengthwise on the skewers so both ends are secured. Place the shrimp on a platter and set aside.
2. Place the shrimp paste on the end of one tine of a grill fork. Hold it over the grill until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp paste to a small bowl and add the lime juice, sugar, and salt. Stir until blended and the sugar and salt dissolve, then stir in the shallots and Thai chiles. Taste for seasoning, adding more lime juice, sugar, and/or salt as necessary; the nam choh should be highly seasoned. Set aside until serving time.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Brush the shrimp with some of the coconut milk and arrange the skewers on the hot grate with the aluminum foil shield under the ends of the skewers. Grill the shrimp, turning with tongs, until they are nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with the coconut milk once or twice as they grill.
5. Transfer the skewered shrimp to serving plates or a platter and serve at once with tiny bowls of the nam choh.
These Gulf Coast Shrimp have jumped from the proverbial frying pan to the fire, since traditionally the shrimp would be sautéed, not grilled. Hot, sweet, and smoky, the shrimp are definitely worth putting tradition aside for.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
2 to 4 hours for marinating the shrimp
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined (see box, page 361), shells reserved
1 cup bottled clam broth, chicken broth, or water
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 scallions, both white and green parts, trimmed and finely chopped
1 to 2 tablespoons Tabasco or other Louisiana-style hot sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons dried oregano 1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup dark cane syrup (see Note)
1. Combine the shrimp shells and the clam broth in a medium-size saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let simmer, uncovered, until slightly reduced and well flavored (the shrimp shells will turn orange), 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the broth into another medium-size saucepan; you should have about ¾ cup.
2. Add the butter, garlic, scallions, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves, cayenne, paprika, thyme, oregano, salt, black pepper, and cane syrup to the shrimp broth. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook, uncovered, whisking often until thick, syrupy, and richly flavored, about 10 minutes. Remove the marinade from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
3. Meanwhile, rinse the shrimp under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
4. Add the shrimp to the cooled marinade in the saucepan and toss to coat. Let the shrimp marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 to 4 hours.
5. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
6. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Remove the shrimp from the marinade, setting aside the marinade. Arrange the shrimp on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on the outside and firm and pink inside, about 2 minutes per side. Brush the shrimp with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the reserved marinade while they grill.
7. Transfer the shrimp to a serving platter. Bring the remaining marinade to a boil over medium heat whisking it well. Remove and discard the bay leaves, then pour the marinade over the shrimp and serve at once.
NOTE: Cane syrup can be found in stores specializing in Southern products or can be bought by mail order; one popular brand is Steen’s. If you can’t find cane syrup, you can always substitute a dark corn syrup, such as Karo.
These kebabs are as easy to make as they are full of flavor. The salty pancetta (Italian bacon) and the piquant lemon combine to deliver a tangy two punch. If you live on the East Coast, in the winter you may be able to find true bay scallops—small, meaty nuggets of incredible sweetness. But larger sea scallops will work, too, provided you cut them down to size. Most scallops come with a crescent-shaped muscle on one side, which should be removed before cooking. (It is noticeably tougher than the rest of the shellfish.)
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes for marinating the scallops
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
8 long bamboo skewers and an aluminum foil shield (see box, page 23)
INGREDIENTS
1½ pounds bay or sea scallops
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 strips lemon zest (each 2 by ½ inches), removed with a vegetable peeler
Plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh basil, stemmed
8 thin slices (6 to 8 ounces) pancetta (Italian bacon) or regular bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1. Using your fingers, pull off and discard the small, half moon–shaped muscle from the side of any scallop that has one. If using sea scallops, cut any large ones in quarters and cut medium-size ones in half, so that all of the pieces are the same size. Rinse the scallops under cold running water, then drain them and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, and pepper in a medium-size bowl and whisk to mix. Add the scallops and toss to coat. Let the scallops marinate at room temperature, covered, for 30 minutes.
3. Remove the scallops from the marinade, setting aside the marinade. Thread the scallops onto the skewers, inserting a basil leaf and a piece of pancetta between each.
4. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
5. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the kebabs on the hot grate with the aluminum foil shield under the ends of the skewers. Grill the scallops until they are just firm and white, 1 to 2 minutes per side (2 to 4 minutes in all). Brush the scallops once or twice with the reserved marinade as they cook.
6. Using a fork, slide the scallops off the skewers onto serving plates or a platter and serve at once.
Clams are probably the last thing to come to mind when most of us think of grilled seafood. But grilling over or in the coals of a fire was most likely the first way man cooked bivalves, and the tradition survives in many regions, including the French West Indies, one of the birthplaces of barbecue. Colombo is a French West Indian curry powder made with rice as well as spices. Its nutty, spicy, aromatic flavor has an uncanny way of bringing out the sweetness of the clams. I’ve included a recipe, but commercially made colombo can be found in West Indian markets or you can substitute a good curry powder.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Shellfish grate (optional)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons colombo powder, homemade (see page 497) or store-bought, or good-quality regular curry powder, or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
2 dozen littleneck or cherrystone clams (see Note), scrubbed
1. Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and colombo powder and cook until very fragrant and the garlic is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Remove the colombo butter from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding pepper to taste and more colombo powder as necessary; the mixture should be highly seasoned.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
3. When ready to cook, preheat a shellfish grate (if using) for 5 minutes, then arrange the clams on it. Otherwise, arrange the clams directly on the grill grate. Grill the clams until the shells open, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Transfer the clams to serving plates or a platter, discarding any clams that did not open. Spoon a little of the colombo butter into each clam shell and serve at once.
NOTE: Clams are graded by size, littlenecks being the smallest. For best results, do not use clams that are any wider than 2 inches across for this recipe, or they will be too tough.
One of the world’s most distinctive styles of barbecuing, éclade consists of cooking mussels using a blazing pile of dry pine needles. (The name may come from the French verb éclore, to open.) This not only sounds like the way our prehistoric ancestors cooked shellfish, it probably is the way. To this day, éclade remains popular picnic fare in the Cognac region of France.
Unless you live in the country, your access to dry pine needles may be limited. Fortunately, mussels grilled over charcoal have very nearly as fine a flavor—with a lot less fuss. The mussels taste best eaten hot off the grill, which means the shells may burn your fingers a little. That’s why another name for this dish is moules brûles-doigts (finger burners).
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Shellfish grate (optional)
INGREDIENTS
4 pounds mussels
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, minced
⅓ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Scrub the mussels under cold running water, discarding any with cracked shells or shells that fail to close when tapped. Using a needle-nose pliers, pull out and discard any clumps of threads gathered at the hinges of the mussels.
2. Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook the garlic until it is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Remove the garlic-parsley butter from the heat and transfer it to 4 small bowls, one for each person for dipping, covering the bowls to keep warm.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, preheat a shellfish grate (if using) for 5 minutes, then arrange the mussels on it, rounded side down (see Note). Otherwise, arrange the mussels directly on the grill grate. Grill the mussels until the shells open, 2 to 6 minutes if you cover the grill, somewhat longer if you don’t.
5. Transfer the mussels to serving bowls, discarding any that didn’t open. To eat, remove the mussels from the shells with your fingers or a small seafood fork and dip them in the garlic-parsley butter. Provide a platter or plates for the discarded shells.
NOTE: If you look at a mussel closely, you will see it has a rounded and a flat side.
Oysters possess a natural affinity for horseradish—a fact appreciated by anyone who has passed an hour or two at a raw bar. In this recipe the horseradish is folded into unsweetened whipped cream, which melts as it hits the hot oysters. Nothing can beat the pungency of freshly grated horseradish, but the bottled product will produce highly delicious results, too.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Shellfish grate (optional)
INGREDIENTS
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 tablespoon grated plain horseradish, drained if bottled, or more to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or scallion greens
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 dozen oysters in the shell, scrubbed
1. Beat the cream in a chilled medium-size bowl until soft peaks form, then fold in the horseradish, chives, lemon zest, and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Taste for seasoning, adding more horseradish and/or lemon juice as necessary.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
3. When ready to cook, preheat a shellfish grate (if using) for 5 minutes, then arrange the oysters on it, rounded side down (see Note). Otherwise, arrange the oysters directly on the grill grate. Grill the oysters until the shells open, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Transfer the oysters to serving plates or a platter, discarding any top shells or oysters that did not open. Place a spoonful of horseradish cream on each oyster and serve at once.
NOTE: If you look at an oyster closely, you will see that one side is more rounded than the other.
Conch (pronounced konk) is the whitest, sweetest, most delicately flavored of all shellfish. Although it’s not well known in North America, it’s virtually the national dish of the Bahamas. Stroll along the Potter’s Cay market beneath the bridge to Paradise Island or along the Arawak Cay recreation area (a popular local hangout) and you’ll find dozens of stalls specializing in the preparation of this giant sea snail. After you’ve had fiery conch salad (the most popular way to eat conch) and “cracked” (fried) conch, you’ll be ready for the most delicious preparation of all: grilled conch.
The basic procedure is to grill the conch wrapped in aluminum foil with onions, garlic, chiles, and butter. To enhance the smoke flavor, Nassau chef Basil Dean chars the conch directly over the coals before wrapping it. Any white fish fillets can be prepared in this fashion (omitting the tenderizing), with delectable results.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Heavy-duty aluminum foil
1½ pounds trimmed, cleaned conch (4 large or 8 small steaks; see Conch, page 375)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅔ cup very finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ to 1 bird pepper, or other hot chile, seeded and minced (for a hotter dish, leave the seeds in)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter
4 lime wedges, for serving
1. Tenderize the conch steaks by pounding them to a ¼-inch thickness using a meat mallet or a rolling pin. Season the conch steaks on both sides with salt and pepper.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
3. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the conch steaks on the hot grate and grill them quickly, turning with tongs, about 1 minute per side. (The idea is to leave grill marks on the conch and impart a charcoaled flavor.) Transfer the steaks to a platter to cool. Leave the fire burning.
4. Cut four 12 by 8–inch pieces of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place 1 large or 2 small conch steaks in the center of each piece of foil.
5. Place the onion, garlic, and bird pepper in a bowl, stir to mix, and spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of the onion mixture on top of each conch steak. Drizzle 1½ teaspoons of lime juice over each conch steak and top with 1 tablespoon of butter. Pull the sides of the aluminum foil up over the top of a conch steak and pleat them together to make an airtight package. Wrap the remaining conch steaks the same way.
6. When ready to cook, arrange the foil packages on the hot grate and grill until the conch is cooked through and tender, about 5 minutes (when done, a metal skewer inserted into the conch through the foil will be very hot when withdrawn).
7. Open the foil packages and slide the conch steaks, with their toppings, onto plates. (Or let each person unwrap his or her own bundle. But warn everyone to avoid the escaping steam.) Serve the conch steaks with wedges of lime for squeezing.
If I were to pick the quintessential taste of the Greek islands, it would be this popular meze (appetizer). Octopus is one of those foods that seems to have been put on earth expressly for grilling: The fire brings out the sweetness of the delicate white meat, which in turn absorbs the flavors of olive oil, oregano, and charcoal without surrendering its own. Cleaning and tenderizing an octopus can be an intimidating process: Fortunately, virtually all the octopus sold in North America is cleaned and tenderized already. This leaves you the easy task of grilling the octopus (preferably over charcoal) until it’s nicely charred on all sides, without quite being burnt. Octopus is available frozen at Greek markets, Japanese markets, and specialty seafood shops. Squid or shrimp can be prepared in a similar fashion. This recipe is unusual in that the octopus is grilled dry, then marinated. Serve it with A Different Greek Salad (page 110).
2 pounds cleaned, trimmed octopus
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Greek
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea), or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Lemon wedges, for serving
GRILLED OCTOPUS | PREVIOUS
1. Using a paring knife, peel or scrape any reddish skin off the octopus (you probably won’t need to do this, as most octopus comes already cleaned). Leave the legs whole, but cut the body in quarters. Rinse the octopus under cold running water, then drain it and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
3. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the octopus pieces on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely charred (but not quite burnt) on all sides, 3 to 6 minutes per side (6 to 12 minutes in all).
4. Transfer the octopus to a cutting board and cut it into bite-size pieces. Place the pieces in a serving bowl.
5. Combine the wine vinegar, lemon juice, oregano, salt, pepper, olive oil, and parsley in a small bowl and whisk to mix, then pour the marinade over the octopus and toss to coat. Let the octopus marinate for at least 5 minutes, or up to 30 (the octopus can be served warm or at room temperature). Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or wine vinegar as necessary; the octopus should be highly seasoned. Serve the octopus accompanied by lemon wedges.
You probably know that South Africa’s culinary roots go back to England, Holland, and, of course, Africa. What you may not realize is that many cities, like the east coast port of Durban, boast large Indian and Malaysian communities—a throwback to the days when Asian laborers were brought there to work in the gold and diamond mines. These grilled squid have the gustatory fireworks you’d associate with India or Southeast Asia. The scoring of the surface of the squid prior to marinating is optional, but it will give you a dramatic presentation.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
1 to 2 hours for marinating the squid
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Fish grate (optional)
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds cleaned squid, including tentacles
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 cloves garlic, peeled
½ small onion, peeled
1 piece (1 inch) peeled fresh ginger
3 stalks fresh lemongrass, trimmed and thinly sliced, or 3 strips lemon zest (each 2 by ½ inches), removed with a vegetable peeler
1 to 3 serrano or jalapeño peppers, seeded (for hotter squid, leave the seeds in)
¾ cup coconut milk, canned or homemade (page 114)
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
Lime wedges, for serving
1. Rinse the squid under cold running water, then drain it and blot dry with paper towels. Make a lengthwise cut in one side of the bodies to open them up into broad, thin sheets. If desired, lightly score the outside of each piece of squid in a crosshatch pattern, using a sharp knife and cutting about halfway through the squid. Leave the tentacle sections whole. Place the squid in a large bowl and set it aside in the refrigerator, covered, while you prepare the marinade.
2. Heat a dry, small skillet over medium heat (do not use a nonstick skillet for this). Add the coriander and cumin seeds and cook until toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Remove the spices from the heat and let cool, then place them in a food processor or blender and grind them to a coarse powder (see Note). Add the garlic, onion, ginger, lemongrass, serrano peppers, coconut milk, salt, and black pepper and process to a smooth paste. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and/or pepper as necessary; the marinade should be highly seasoned. Stir in ¼ cup of the cilantro, then pour the marinade over the squid and toss to coat. Let the squid marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 1 to 2 hours, turning the pieces occasionally.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, preheat a fish grate (if using) for 5 minutes, then brush and oil it or the grill grate. Arrange the squid pieces on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until just firm and white, 1 to 2 minutes per side.
5. Transfer the squid to serving plates or a platter and sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup of cilantro on top. Serve the squid at once, accompanied by lime wedges.
NOTE: If you’re in a hurry, you can omit the whole seeds and toasting procedure and use ground spices instead.
Fernando Gomes knows a good thing when he sees it. When the Azores Islander landed in the early 1980s, in what was the Portuguese colony of Macao (soon to be part of China), it was love at first sight—and bite. So he did what many Portuguese do in Macao: He opened a restaurant. Behind a funky brick storefront is a spacious courtyard where guests dine under whirling paddle fans in an open-air pavilion. Fernando’s is located on the quietest of Macao’s islands, Coloane, and it backs up to Hac Sa Beach. The grilled cuttlefish alone is worth the trip.
Cuttlefish is a larger, wider, fleshier, somewhat sweeter cousin of squid. If you live in an area with a large Asian, Iberian, or Italian community, you may be able to find cuttlefish at an ethnic fish market. Squid also works well for this recipe and is much more widely available. If possible, use charcoal for grilling here.
ADVANCE PREPARATION
30 minutes for marinating the cuttlefish
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Fish grate (optional)
INGREDIENTS
1½ to 2 pounds cleaned cuttlefish or squid, with tentacles
⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste
1 small onion, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 ripe medium-size tomato, seeded (see box, page 454) and diced
1. Rinse the cuttlefish under cold running water, then drain it and blot dry with paper towels. Place the cuttlefish in a nonreactive baking dish.
2. Combine the olive oil, wine vinegar, onion, parsley, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive bowl and whisk to mix. Taste for seasoning, adding more vinegar and/or salt as necessary; the olive oil mixture should be highly seasoned. Pour half of the olive oil mixture over the cuttlefish. Let the cuttlefish marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 30 minutes. Transfer the remaining olive oil mixture to an attractive bowl and stir in the tomato. Set the tomato mixture aside.
3. Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.
4. When ready to cook, preheat a fish grate (if using) for 5 minutes, then brush and oil it or the grill grate. Remove the cuttlefish from the marinade, setting aside the marinade. Arrange the cuttlefish on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely charred and just firm, 2 to 3 minutes per side (4 to 6 minutes in all). Brush the cuttlefish once or twice with the remaining marinade as it cooks.
5. Transfer the cuttlefish to serving plates or a platter. Serve at once, accompanied by the tomato mixture.
