THE WESTFJORDS
There is immense grandeur in the high, flat-topped mountains, brilliant blue seas and rugged coastline of the Westfjords, located in the extreme northwest of Iceland. For the region’s scattered communities, life has been tough given the minimal infrastructure outside Ísafjörður, the only sizable town. The attractions of the area are mostly strung along the west coast between the Látrabjarg bird cliffs and Ísafjörður. Though the eastern Strandir coast offers a low-key beauty, inland views are filled by snow-streaked plateaus. Visit in summer when the buses run from Reykjavík and the roads are open: you can fly into Ísafjörður but from there you will need to drive onward.
1. Patreksfjörður
Named after St Patrick, this sizable fishing village on Route 62 is where Iceland’s trawling industry started in the early 20th century. It is famous for attacks by Basque whalers during the early 17th century. It is also the last place to stock up with provisions and fuel if you are heading to the Látrabjarg bird cliffs or the beach at Breiðavík, which is southwest at the end of Route 62.
2. Flókalundur
Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve: www.ust.is
Flókalundur (“Flóki’s Wood”) is a tiny south-coast area on Route 62, named after the Viking Flóki Vilgerðarson. He endured a harsh winter here around AD 860 and, on climbing nearby Lómfell, he saw the fjord below choked with ice and gave “Ice Land” its name. The surrounding wetlands, dwarf forest and barren basalt highlands are now protected as the Vatnsfjörður Nature Reserve. You can explore it using Hótel Flókalundur as a summertime base.
Thermal pool, Flókalundur
3. Rauðasandur
Seals are frequently seen at this cinnamon-coloured beach on the southwesternmost peninsula of the Westfjords, along the unsealed Route 614. Arctic skuas nest on the grasslands behind the spit. As well as offering wildlife, the ruins of Sjöundá farm lie 5 km (3 miles) east of the beach. Gunnar Gunnarsson’s novel Svartfugl (Blackbird) is based on a double murder there in 1802.
4. Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs
This is among the most stirring sights in Iceland. Millions of seabirds cram into the cliffs in summer – the noise and stench are remarkable (see Látrabjarg Bird Cliffs). The dramatic landscape, empty beaches and isolated buildings evoke the hardships of rural life. Local buses travel here in summer.
5. Hólmavík Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft
Höfðagata 8, 510 Hólmavík • 897 6525, 451 3525 • Open 9am–6pm daily • Adm • www.galdrasyning.is
Situated on the southeast coast, Hólmavík has a Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft that draws on the district’s reputation for the dark arts – during the 17th century 20 people (only one was female) were burned at the stake. The museum has models, trinkets, an audio tour and a demonstration of spell-casting. It runs a “Sorcerer’s Cottage” 28 km (17 miles) up the coast, which shows how people lived in the 17th century.
6. Hrafnseyri
456 8260 • Open Jun–Sep: 11am–6pm daily • Adm • www.hrafnseyri.is
Hrafnseyri – a church and turf farmhouse overlooking the sea at Arnarfjörður – is of great importance as it is the birthplace of Jón Sigurðsson (1811–79), whose campaign for Iceland’s independence from Denmark saw the parliament restored and a self-governing constitution enacted. His birthday, 17 June, is celebrated as National Day. The farmhouse is now a museum dedicated to Sigurðsson’s life. Don’t miss the Dynjandi waterfall, 15 km (9 miles) to the south.
7. Súðavík Arctic Fox Centre
Eyrardal, Súðavík • 456 4922 • Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–2pm Mon–Fri • Adm • www.arcticfoxcenter.com
Originally the only mammal to inhabit Iceland was the Arctic fox, which probably drifted here from Greenland on ice floes. Smaller than the European red fox, the Arctic fox can either have a brown coat all year, or one that is grey in the summer and white in the winter. The Arctic Fox Centre, which is located 20 km (12 miles) around the coast from Ísafjörður, at Eyrardalur farm, explores the Arctic fox’s biology and relationship with man. Rescued foxes can be found in the centre’s garden.
8. Ísafjörður
Tourist office: 450 8060; www.isafjordur.is
The region’s main town, Ísafjörður is a mass of narrow streets and old buildings. Chief among these is the Turnhús, which houses the Westfjords Maritime Museum, overlooked by the mountain of Eyrarfjall. Across the Ísafjarðardjúp straits, the uninhabited Hornstrandir peninsula offers the ultimate hiking challenge. Boats run out here and to little Vigur island (see Vigur) through the summer.
Traditional buildings,Íafjörður
9. Norðurfjörður
At the end of Route 643 up the east Strandir coast, Norðurfjörður is small, even for the Westfjords, but the scenery is stunning and makes the drive along gravel roads worthwhile. The town is backed by the 646-m- (2,125-ft-) high Krossnesfjall hill and looks out to sea across Norðurfjörður bay. It is lonely but romantic. About 4 km (2 miles) away lies Krossneslaug, a beachside swimming pool fed by a hot spring.
10. Drangajökull
The area’s sole permanent icecap, Drangajökull makes a splendid sight on the top of a high plateau. During the 18th century it covered local farms but has now shrunk. The best view is along the dead-end Route 635 to Kaldalónsjökull, a glacier descending off larger Drangajökull. It is an hour’s walk from Kaldalón.
TIMBER FROM THE SEA
Iceland has always been short of home-grown timber for building boats and houses, which from Viking times has placed great demand on driftwood. Fortunately, plenty washes up around the country, particularly along the Westfjords’ pebbly Strandir coast, whose beaches are often strewn with tree trunks that have floated all the way from Siberia.
A DAY IN THE WESTFJORDS
Morning
Arriving at Brjánslækur by ferry from Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes peninsula (see Borgarnes Settlement Center), drive north up Route 62 to Flókalundur. Fuel up and buy something for a picnic lunch here before turning onto Route 60. This good gravel road climbs up to the Dynjandisheiði plateau and then drops abruptly to the coast at the stunning and noisy Dynjandi waterfall, a great place to stretch your legs and spend an hour exploring the multilevel cascades (the lighting is best here in the evening). A grassy area at the foot of the falls makes a perfect spot for a picnic.
Afternoon
Leaving Dynjandi waterfall, carry on around the bay to Hrafnseyri, birthplace of Jón Sigurðsson, and drop in at the museum celebrating the life of this great Icelandic patriot. From here it is a further 65 km (40 miles) to Ísafjörður via Þingeyri (the Westfjords’ oldest trading town), two mountain passes and a lengthy single-lane tunnel – there are passing bays inside, but traffic is never heavy. Once at Ísafjörður, track down your accommodation and then visit the Westfjords Maritime Museum inside the old Turnhús or simply stroll down to the harbour, where you can usually spot marine ducks. The nearby Hotel Ísafjör ð ur is an ideal place for a hearty evening meal.
