INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
R S T U
V W Y Z

A

Accommodations: See Sleeping

Airport, in Madrid: 8, 103–104

Air travel: 185, 187

Alcázar: Segovia, 126–127; Toledo, 159–160

Almonacid: 180

Almudena Cathedral (Madrid): 27

Ambulance: 185

American Embassy (Madrid): 72, 185

American Express: 186

Americas, Museum of the (Madrid): 17, 69–70

Archaeological museum, in Madrid: 16, 69

Armory: Madrid, 45; Segovia, 127

Army Museum (Toledo): 151, 159–160

Arrival: in Madrid, 6, 8; in Segovia, 120; in Toledo, 144–145, 148

Art museums: CaixaForum (Madrid), 68; Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid), 16, 61–67; El Greco Museum (Toledo), 151, 163–164; Espacio Fundación Telefónica (Madrid), 33–34; Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia), 128; Museo Sorolla (Madrid), 16, 71; Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo), 151, 165–166; Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid), 68–69; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 151, 157–159; Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid), 16, 60–61. See also Prado Museum

Assassination Attempt Memorial (Madrid): 27

Astrolabe Tapestry: 157

ATMs: 181–182

Atocha Station (Madrid): 3, 6, 100–102

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 187

AVE trains: 100, 101, 120, 132, 179, 185

Ávila: 134–140; eating, 139–140; map, 136–137; sights, 135–139; sleeping, 139; tourist information, 134; transportation, 134, 140

Ávila Cathedral: 135, 138

Ávila Wall: 135

B

Baggage storage: See Luggage storage

Barajas Airport (Madrid): 103–104

Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid): 32, 73, 75–76

Bisagra Gate (Toledo): 168; sleeping near, 170–171

Bocadillos de calamares: 24, 95–96

Bookstores, in Madrid: 9

Bosch, Hieronymus: 52–53

Bourbon Palace (El Escorial): 116

Bravo, Juan, statue of: 124

Breakfast: Madrid, 85; Segovia, 131–132

Bullfighting bar, in Madrid: 23–24

Bullfighting Museum (Madrid): 75

Bullfights: Madrid, 16, 74–75; Segovia, 124

Buñuel, Luis: 63

Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Greco): 151, 162

Buses: 184–185; Ávila, 134, 140; El Escorial, 108; Madrid, 6, 8, 12, 14, 102, 103–104; tours, 15–18, 72–73; Segovia, 120, 132–133; Toledo, 144–145, 148, 179; tours, 148–149, 168–169; Valley of the Fallen, 116

C

Cabs: See Taxis

CaixaForum (Madrid): 68

Calle Cava Baja (Madrid), tapas: 93–94

Calle Comercio (Toledo): 142

Calle de Jesús (Madrid), tapas: 92

Calle de la Montera (Madrid): 19, 33, 86

Calle del Arenal (Madrid): 29–32

Calle de las Huertas (Madrid): 73, 78, 92

Calle del Conde de Miranda (Madrid): 25

Calle de Postas (Madrid): 21–22

Calle Juan Bravo (Segovia): 120, 121

Calle Mayor (Madrid): 21, 26–27

Camper (Madrid): 77

Capilla La Concepción (Segovia): 126

Car rentals: 185; Madrid, 104–105

Car travel (driving): 185; Ávila, 134; El Escorial, 109; Madrid, 104–105; Segovia, 133; Toledo, 144, 148, 179

Casa de Diego (Madrid): 77

Casa de los Picos (Segovia): 121

Casa Rúa (Madrid): 24, 95–96

Casita Museo de Ratón Pérez (Madrid): 32

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (Madrid): 27

CentroCentro Cibeles for Culture and Citizenship (Madrid): 68–69, 88

Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid): 16, 61–67

Centro de Interpretación del Misticismo (Ávila): 138

Centro Dramático Nacional (Madrid): 74

Ceramics, shopping for, in Madrid: 77

Cervantes, Miguel de: 180

Chamartín Station (Madrid): 3, 6, 99

Chapel of St.Anthony of La Florida (Madrid): 17, 70

Chapel of the New Kings (Toledo): 155

Chapter House (Toledo): 154

Charles III: 18–19, 31, 36, 39–44, 68

Charles III Salon (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 41

Chocolatería San Ginés (Madrid): 80, 98

Chueca (Madrid): 97–98; eating, 97–98; sleeping, 86

Churches and cathedrals: Almudena Cathedral (Madrid), 27; Ávila Cathedral, 135, 138; Corpus Christi Church (Madrid), 25; St. Ginès Church (Madrid), 29; San Román Church (Toledo), 151, 161; Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia), 128; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 151, 162–163; Segovia Cathedral, 125–126; Toledo Cathedral, 150, 151, 152–156; Valley of the Fallen Basilica, 117, 119; Vera Cruz Church, 128

Churros con chocolate: 80, 85, 98–99

Circulo de Bellas Artes (Madrid): 32–33

Classical guitars, shopping for, in Madrid: 77–78

Clothing Museum (Madrid): 70

Coin market, in Madrid: 22–23, 76

Colegio de Infantes (Toledo): 157

Consuegra: 180

Convent of St. Teresa (Ávila): 138

Corpus Christi Church and Convent (Madrid): 25

Corpus Christi Convent (Segovia): 124

Credit cards: 181–182

Crown Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 43–44

Cuatro Postes (Ávila): 135

Currency and exchange: 181–182

D

Dalí, Salvador: 63

Damascene: 169

Dear Hotel (Madrid): 34–35

Debit cards: 181–182

Descalzas Royal Monastery (Madrid): 46

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Don Quixote (Cervantes): 180

Driving: See Car travel

Dürer, Albrecht: 51

E

Eating: 184; Ávila, 139–140; El Escorial, 110; Madrid, 87–99; Segovia, 130–132; Spanish restaurant phrases, 190; Toledo, 174–178. See also Tapas

El Corte Inglés (Madrid): 9, 76; cafeteria, 96; picnics, 98; travel agency, 9, 12, 99

El Escorial: 108–116; eating, 110; maps, 109, 111; planning tips, 106–107; sights, 110–116; transportation, 108–109

El Escorial Monastery: 108, 110–116; history of, 113; map, 111

El Greco: 138; biographical sketch, 163; El Escorial, 113; Museum (Toledo), 151, 163–164; Parador de Toledo, 174; Prado Museum (Madrid), 56; Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo), 151, 158; Santo Tomé (Toledo), 151, 162–163; Toledo Cathedral, 150, 155–156

El Martes (Toledo): 169

El Rastro (Madrid): 17, 76–77

E-mail, in Madrid: 9, 103

Emergencies: 185–186; Madrid, 8

Entertainment: Madrid, 78–80; current schedule, 6; Segovia, 132

Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 17, 70

Espacio Fundación Telefónica (Madrid): 33–34

Euro currency: 181–182

F

Ferpal (Madrid): 30–31

Festivals: 186

Flamenco, in Madrid: 17, 79

Flea market, in Madrid: 17, 76–77

Food: tours, in Madrid, 14–15. See also Churros con chocolate; Eating; Markets; Mazapán; Roast suckling pig; Tapas

“Football,” in Madrid: 32, 73, 75–76

Fra Angelico: 50–51

G

Garden of Earthly Delights, The (Bosch): 52

Gasparini Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 40–41

Giordano, Lucca: 112, 155

Goya, Francisco de: 19–20, 39–40, 62–63, 71, 155–156; Prado Museum (Madrid), 57–60; Tomb (Madrid), 17, 70

Granada: 179

Gran Vía (Madrid): 3, 32–35; map, 34–35; nightlife, 78; sleeping, 81, 84

Guernica (Picasso): 64–66

Guía del Ocio: 6, 80

Guidebooks: Rick Steves, 187; Toledo, 148

Guided tours: See Tours

Guitars, shopping for, in Madrid: 77–78

H

Ham, Museum of (Madrid): 94

H&M (Madrid): 34, 76

Helpful hints: 185–187; Madrid, 8–9, 12; Segovia, 120–121; Toledo, 148

Hemingway, Ernest: 15, 88, 118

Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida (Madrid): 17, 70

History Museum (Madrid): 17, 71

Holidays: 186

Hostels: Madrid, 87; Toledo, 171, 174

Hotels: See Sleeping

House of Siglo XV (Segovia): 124

I

Ice cream, in Madrid: 24

Information: See Tourist information

Internet access, in Madrid: 9, 103

Itineraries: Madrid, 2; Toledo, 142

J

Jazz bars, in Madrid: 80

Jewish museum, in Toledo: 151, 164–165

José María (Segovia): 130

Joy Eslava (Madrid): 29–30

K

“Kilometer zero” (Madrid): 19

Knives, shopping for, in Toledo: 169

L

La Granja de San Ildefonso Palace: 128–129

La Mallorquina (Madrid): 20

La Mancha: 180

Las Meninas (Velázquez): 53–54

La Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 23–24

Laundry, in Madrid: 9

Lavapiés (Madrid): 73–74

Leather goods, shopping for, in Madrid: 77

Luggage storage: Madrid, 103; Segovia, 120; Toledo, 144–145

M

Macho (Victorio) Museum (Toledo): 151, 165–166

Madrid: 1–105; at a glance, 16–17; arrival in, 6, 8; eating, 87–99; experiences, 72–76; helpful hints, 8–9, 12; maps, 4–5, 7, 20–21, 34–35, 48, 90–91; sleeping, 82–83; nightlife, 78–80; orientation, 3; planning tips, 2; shopping, 9, 76–78; sights, 35–71; sleeping, 80–87; tourist information, 3, 6; tours, 14–18; transportation, 6, 8, 12–14, 99–105; walking tour, 18–35

Madrid History Museum: 17, 71

Madrid Royal Palace: See Royal Palace

Madrid Tower: 28

Madrid Town Hall: 26

Maids of Honor (Velázquez): 53–54

Mantegna, Andrea: 51

Maps: Ávila, 136–137; El Escorial, 109, 111; Madrid, 4–5, 20–21; eating, 90–91; Gran Vía, 34–35; greater Madrid, 7; Metro, 7; museum neighborhood, 48; sleeping, 82–83; northwest of Madrid, 107; Segovia, 122–123; Toledo, 143, 146–147; eating, 176–177; sleeping, 172–173

Markets: Ávila, 139–140; El Escorial, 110; Madrid, 17, 22–23, 24–25, 76–77, 96, 97; Segovia, 121, 132; Toledo, 169, 178

Mazapán: 178

Medical help: 185–186

Mercado de San Miguel (Madrid): 24–25, 96

Mercado San Agustín (Toledo): 178

Mesón de Cándido (Segovia): 131

Mesones: 24–25, 80

Metric system: 186–187

Metro (Madrid): 12, 104; map, 13

Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo): 161

Modern District (Madrid): 72

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales (Madrid): 46

Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo): 151, 166–168

Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial: 108, 110–116; history of, 113; map, 111

Moncloa Station (Madrid): 102

Money: 181–182

Money belts: 8, 181, 186

Money-saving tips: Ávila, 134; Madrid, 46; Segovia, 120–121; Toledo, 144

Movie theaters, in Madrid: 80

Mozarabic Chapel (Toledo): 156

Murillo, Bartolomé: 54–55

Museo Arqueológico Nacional (Madrid): 16, 69

Museo de América (Madrid): 17, 69–70

Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente (Segovia): 128

Museo de Historia de Madrid: 17, 71

Museo del Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza (Madrid): 16, 60–61

Museo del Ejército (Toledo): 151, 159–160

Museo del Greco (Toledo): 151, 163–164

Museo del Jamón (Madrid): 94

Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda (Toledo): 151, 161

Museo del Traje (Madrid): 70

Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo): 151, 157–159

Museo Nacional del Prado (Madrid): See Prado Museum

Museo Naval (Madrid): 17, 68

Museo Sefardí (Toledo): 151, 164–165

Museo Sorolla (Madrid): 16, 71

Museo Taurino (Madrid): 75

Museo Victorio Macho (Toledo): 151, 165–166

Museum of the Americas (Madrid): 17, 69–70

Music, in Madrid: 78–80

Mysticism Interpretation Center (Ávila): 138

N

National Archaeological Museum (Madrid): 16, 69

Naval Museum (Madrid): 17, 68

Nightlife: Madrid, 78–80; Segovia, 132

O

Organized tours: See Tours

P

Packing list: 187

Palacio de Cibeles (Madrid): 68–69, 88

Palacio de Congresos Miradero (Toledo): 169

Palacio Real (Madrid): See Royal Palace

Pantheon of the Princes (El Escorial): 113

Parador de Toledo: 148, 174

Parque del Buen Retiro (Madrid): 17, 67

Paseo de la Castellana (Madrid): 72–73

Paseo del Arte (Madrid): 3, 46

Passports: 185

Philip II Palace (El Escorial): 114–115

Phones: 182–183

Picasso, Pablo: 63–66

Picasso Tower (Madrid): 72–73

Planning tips: Madrid, 2; Toledo, 142

Plaza de Castilla (Madrid): 73

Plaza de Colón (Madrid): 3, 72

Plaza de España (Madrid): 35

Plaza de Isabel II (Madrid): 28–29

Plaza de la Villa (Madrid): 26

Plaza del Carmen (Madrid), sleeping near: 85–86

Plaza del Mercado Chico (Ávila): 139

Plaza de Oriente (Madrid): 28

Plaza de San Martín (Segovia): 124

Plaza de Toros (Madrid): 74–75

Plaza de Zocodover (Toledo): 142, 156–157, 169; eating, 175, 178; map, 172–173; sleeping near, 170

Plaza Mayor (Madrid): 17, 22–23; eating, 95–96; information, 3; maps, 20–21, 90–91; market, 22–23, 76; sleeping near, 84–85; tapas, 93–94; Wi-Fi, 9

Plaza Mayor (Segovia): 124; eating, 130–132; market, 121, 132; sleeping, 129

Plaza Santa Ana (Madrid): 74, 94, 95

Police: 185

Porcelain Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 41

Prado Museum (Madrid): 16, 46–60; eating, 49; guided tours, 15, 47, 49; information, 47; self-guided tour, 49–60; sleeping near, 85, 87

Primark (Madrid): 34

Príncipe Pío Station (Madrid): 102

Pronovias (Madrid): 32

Prostitution: 8–9

Puerta de Europa (Madrid): 33, 72; theft alert, 8

Puerta del Sol (Madrid): 3, 16, 18–21; eating near, 96–97; map, 20–21; sleeping near, 81, 84, 86

R

Raphael: 49–50

Reader feedback: 187

Real Fábrica de Tapices (Madrid): 69

Real Jardín Botánico (Madrid): 17, 68

Real Madrid: 32, 73, 75–76

Reina Sofía (Madrid): 16, 61–67

Resources from Rick Steves: 187

Restaurants: See Eating

Retiro Park (Madrid): 17, 67

Roast suckling pig: 88, 130–131

Roman Aqueduct (Segovia): 125

Royal Botanical Garden (Madrid): 17, 68

Royal Chapel (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 43

Royal Chapel of St.Anthony of La Florida (Madrid): 17, 70

Royal families of Spain: 30–31

Royal Palace (Madrid): 16, 28, 35–46; eating near, 37–38; maps, 20–21, 37; self-guided tour, 38–46; tours, 36–37

Royal Palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso: 128–129

Royal Pantheon (El Escorial): 114

Royal Tapestry Factory (Madrid): 69

Royal Theater (Madrid): 28

Rubens, Peter Paul: 46, 55

S

Sacristy (Toledo): 155–156

St. Ginès Church (Madrid): 29

St. Teresa Convent (Ávila): 138

Salamanca: 133

San Agustín Market (Toledo): 178

San Antonio de la Florida Hermitage (Madrid): 17, 70

San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (Toledo): 151, 166–168

San Lorenzo de El Escorial Monastery: 108, 110–116; history of, 113; map, 111

San Miguel market (Madrid): 24–25, 96

San Román Church (Toledo): 151, 161

Santa Cruz Museum (Toledo): 151, 157–159

Santa María la Blanca Synagogue (Toledo): 151, 166

Santos Justo y Pastor Church (Segovia): 128

Santo Tomé (Toledo): 151, 162–163, 178

SATE: 8

Segovia: 119–133; arrival in, 120; eating, 130–132; helpful hints, 120–121; map, 122–123; orientation, 120; planning tips, 106–107; shopping, 121; sights, 125–129; sleeping, 129–130; tourist information, 120; transportation, 120, 132–133; walking tour, 121–124

Segovia Cathedral: 125–126

Segovia City Hall: 124

Shoes, shopping for, in Madrid: 77

Shopping: Madrid, 9, 76–78; Segovia, 121; Toledo, 169. See also Markets

Siesta: 186

Sights: general tips, 186; Ávila, 135–139; El Escorial, 110–116; Madrid, 35–71; at a glance, 16–17; Segovia, 125–129; Toledo, 150–169. See also specific sights

Sightseeing passes: Ávila, 134; Toledo, 144

Silla de Felipe: 109

Sinagoga del Tránsito (Toledo): 151, 164–165

Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (Toledo): 151, 166

Sleeping: 183; Ávila, 139; Madrid, 80–87; reservations, 183; Segovia, 129–130; Toledo, 170–174

Smartphones: 182–183

Sobrino del Botín (Madrid): 88

Soccer, in Madrid: 32, 73, 75–76

Sorolla (Joaquín) Museum (Madrid): 16, 71

Spanish Civil War: about, 118

Spanish restaurant phrases: 190

Spanish survival phrases: 189

Stamp market, in Madrid: 22–23, 76

Stradivarius Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 43

Subway: See Metro

T

Tapas: 184; Ávila, 139; Madrid, 89–95; Segovia, 130–132; Toledo, 174–175

Taxis: Madrid, 14, 104; Toledo, 144, 148, 179; Valley of the Fallen, 116

Teatro Real (Madrid): 28

Telefónica (Madrid): 33–34

Telephones: 182–183

Temple of Debod (Madrid): 70–71

Teresa, Saint: 134, 138

Terrorism Memorial (Madrid): 100–101

Theft alerts: 186; Madrid, 8

Third of May, 1808 (Goya): 20, 58

Throne Room (Madrid’s Royal Palace): 44

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Madrid): 16, 60–61

Tiepolo, Giambattista: 39, 42, 44

Time zone: 186

Titian: 56–57, 112, 113, 155

Toledo: 141–179; at a glance, 151; arrival in, 144–145, 148; eating, 174–178; helpful hints, 148; history of, 145; layout of, 142–143; maps, 143, 146–147, 172–173, 176–177; orientation, 142–143; planning tips, 142; shopping, 169; sights, 150–169; sleeping, 170–174; tourist information, 143–144; tours, 148–149; transportation, 144–145, 148, 179

Toledo: Its Art and Its History: 148

Toledo Card: 144

Toledo Cathedral: 150, 151, 152–156; map, 152; self-guided tour, 150, 152–156

Torre del Oro Bar Andalú (Madrid): 23–24

Tour guides: Madrid, 15; Segovia, 121; Toledo, 149

Tourist information: 187; Ávila, 134; El Escorial, 110; Madrid, 3, 6; Segovia, 120; Toledo, 143–144

Tourist train, in Toledo: 149

Tours: El Escorial, 110; Madrid, 14–18; Prado Museum, 47, 49; Royal Palace, 36–37; Segovia, 121; Toledo, 148–149

Train stations, in Madrid: 6, 99–101

Train travel: 184–185; Ávila, 134; El Escorial, 108; Madrid, 6, 99–102; Segovia, 120, 132; Toledo, 144, 149, 179

Transparente (Toledo): 154–155

Transportation: 184–185; Ávila, 134, 140; El Escorial, 108–109; Madrid, 6, 8, 12–14, 99–105; Segovia, 120, 132–133; Toledo, 144–145, 148, 179; Valley of the Fallen, 116. See also Buses; Car travel; Metro; Taxis; Train travel

Travel agencies, in Madrid: 9, 12

Travel insurance: 187

Treasury (Toledo): 156

U

Uber, in Madrid: 14

V

Valley of the Fallen: 116–119

Valley of the Fallen Basilica: 117, 119

Van der Weyden, Roger: 51–52

Velázquez, Diego: 53–54, 155

Vera Cruz Church: 128

Vicente (Esteban) Museum (Segovia): 128

Visigothic Museum (Toledo): 151, 161

Visitor information: See Tourist information

W

Walking tours, guided, in Madrid: 14–15

Walking tours, self-guided: Madrid, 18–35; Segovia, 121–124

Wi-Fi: 182; Madrid, 9

Y

Yemas, in Ávila: 138–139

Youth hostels: Madrid, 87; Toledo, 171, 174

Z

Zarzuela, in Madrid: 17, 78–79