INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Z

A

Aachen: 561

Abbeys and monasteries: Andechs Monastery, 31, 123; Erfurt Augustinian Monastery, 614–616; Ettal Monastery, 171–173; Füssen Franciscan Monastery, 135; St. Peter’s Abbey (Salzburg), 223–224

Academy of Arts (Berlin): 755–756

Academy of Fine Arts (Dresden): 695

Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Ägyptisches Museum (Berlin): See Egyptian Collection

Airlines (airfares): 4, 976–977

Airports: Baden-Baden, 280; Berlin, 847–848; Dresden, 684; Frankfurt, 371, 439–441; Hamburg, 873; Munich, 115–116; Salzburg, 199, 243; VAT refunds, 928

Air tours, of Bavaria: 187

Albertinum (Dresden): 695, 705–707

Albrecht Dürer House (Nürnberg): 578–579

Alexanderplatz (Berlin): 747, 768

Almanac: xiv–xv

Almbach Gorge: 273–274

Alm River Canal Exhibit (Salzburg): 234

Alois Dallmayr Delicatessen (Munich): 48, 114

Alpentherme Ehrenberg (Reutte): 186–187

Alps: See Bavaria

Altdorfer, Albrecht: 69

Alte Börse (Leipzig): 656

Alte Mainbrücke (Würzburg): 394, 398–399, 405

Alte Nationalgalerie (Berlin): 743, 778–780

Alte Oper (Frankfurt): 419

Alte Pinakothek (Munich): 30, 68–72

Alter Friedhof (Füssen): 134–135

Alter Markt (Cologne), 546; (Salzburg), 222

Altes Haus (Bacharach): 465, 466–467

Altes Museum (Berlin): 780

Alt-Rothenburger Handwerkerhaus (Rothenburg): 357

Amalienburg (Munich): 89–90

Amphitheater (Trier): 533–534

Ancient Spa Museum (Baden-Baden): 285

Andechs Monastery: 31, 123

Andreasstrasse (Erfurt): 614

Anger Museum (Erfurt): 607, 618

Anger Square (Erfurt): 607, 610

Anne Frank Center (Berlin): 797

Apartment rentals: 939

Apple wine, in Frankfurt: 433–435

Aquarium, Berlin: 747, 819–820

Archaeological Museum (Trier): 531–532

Architecture: castles, 913; churches, 912

Arch of Peace (Berlin): See Brandenburg Gate

Art Nouveau (Jugendstil): 79, 796, 815–816, 821–822, 885

Arts and Crafts Museum (Hamburg): 879, 881, 882

Asam Church (Munich): 30, 43–44

Asamkirche (Munich): 30, 43–44

ATMs: 923–925

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 13, 978

Augsburg: 379

Augustiner Beer Garden (Munich): 110

Augustiner Bräustübl (Salzburg): 261–262

Augustiner Museum (Freiburg): 306, 309

Augustinian Monastery and Church (Erfurt): 614–616

Augustus Bridge (Dresden): 695–696

Augustus II (the Strong): 679, 692, 693, 696, 698, 700, 701, 702, 704, 709, 710

Augustusplatz (Leipzig): 659–661, 675

Aussenalster (Hamburg): 879, 881

Austria: driving in, 199, 202, 976; telephones, 179, 199; Zugspitze, 173–176. See also Reutte; Salzburg

Autobahn: about, 973

B

Babelsberg: 860

Bach, Johann Sebastian: 607, 650, 655, 658, 666–669; biographical sketch, 668–669; Museum (Leipzig), 668–669

Bacharach: 454, 461–475; activities, 468–469; eating, 472–473; helpful hints, 461–462; map, 464–465; nightlife, 473; self-guided walk, 462–468; shopping, 461; sleeping, 469–472; tourist information, 461; transportation, 474–475

Bacharach City Towers: 467–468

Bacharach Old Town Walls: 468–469

Bacharach Protestant Church: 466

Bächle (Freiburg): 302, 305, 317

Bachstrasse (Beilstein): 515

Back Door travel philosophy: 15

Baden-Baden: 277–297; baths, 283, 285, 286–289; eating, 295–297; helpful hints, 280–281; maps, 279, 284; self-guided walk, 282–286; sights/activities, 282–292; sleeping, 292–295; tourist information, 278–279; transportation, 279–280, 281, 297

Baden-Baden Casino: 282, 289–290

Baden-Baden Catholic Church: 283

Bad Frankenhausen: 622–623

Bad Mergentheim: 374

Bad Windsheim: 360–361

Bahnhofsvorplatz (Cologne): 543–544

BallinStadt Emigration Museum (Hamburg): 881, 898–899

Banking District (Frankfurt): 408, 417–418

Banks (banking): 923–925. See also specific destinations

Bardentreffen Nürnberg: 565–565, 983

Barfussgässchen (Leipzig): 675, 676

Bastei Bridge: 716

Baths: Baden-Baden, 283, 285, 286–289; near Füssen, 139–140; Reutte, 186–187; Trier, 533

Baths of Caracalla (Baden-Baden): 288–289

Battle of the Nations, Monument of the (Leipzig): 670–672

Baumeister Haus (Rothenburg): 343, 352

Bavaria: 125–195; Berchtesgaden, 243–244, 265–274; helpful hints, 131; map, 128–129; planning tips, 126; transportation, 126–127, 130–131. See also Nürnberg

Bavarian Kings, Museum of the (near Hohenschwangau): 155–156

Bavarian National Museum (Munich): 79

Bavarian Terrace (Zugspitze): 176

Bayerischer Bahnhof (Leipzig): 676–677

Bayerisch Staatsoper (Munich): 94

Beatles, the: 889, 890

Beautiful Fountain (Nürnberg): 575

Bebelplatz (Berlin): 762–763

Beck (Munich): 94

Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 936–937. See also specific destinations

Beer: 947–949; Berlin, 744, 835; Cologne, 557; Munich, 95, 108–109; guided tours, 28–29; Oktoberfest, 21, 50–51, 983. See also Beer gardens/halls

Beer and Oktoberfest Museum (Munich): 51

Beer gardens/halls: Baden-Baden, 295, 296; Berlin, 837, 840, 842, 845; Cologne, 558, 559; Dresden, 714, 723–724, 725; Erfurt, 625; Frankfurt, 434; Freiburg, 313, 314–315; Hamburg, 905; Leipzig, 676–677; Munich, 39–40, 49–50, 104–105, 108–111; Nürnberg, 595–596, 597; Rothenburg, 368–369; Salzburg, 256, 261–262; Wittenberg, 648; Würzburg, 403

Beer Hall Putsch of 1923: 43, 53, 66, 380

Beethoven, Ludwig: 584, 658; Birthplace (Bonn), 560

Beilstein: 512–518; eating, 518; sights/activities, 513–517; sleeping, 517–518

Beilstein’s Castle: 515–516

Beilstein Synagogue: 514–515

Bell tower: See Glockenspiel

Benedictine Monastery (Füssen): 138

Benedict XVI, Pope: 47, 175, 615

Benediktplatz (Erfurt): 611–612

Berchtesgaden: 243–244, 265–274; map, 268

Berchtesgaden Salt Mines: 272

Berggruen Museum (Berlin): 820–821

Berlin: 727–848, 766; at a glance, 742–743; arrival in, 733–736; day trips, 849–869; eating, 834–845; helpful hints, 736–737; history of, 730–731; nightlife, 823–826; orientation, 730–732; planning tips, 729–730; self-guided bus tour, 747; self-guided walk, 748–768; shopping, 734, 822–823; sights, 768–822; sleeping, 826–834; tourist information, 732–733; tours, 741, 744–748; transportation, 733–736, 737–741, 846–848. See also Eastern Berlin; and specific neighborhoods

Berlinale: 736

Berlin Cathedral: 764–765

Berlin City Hall: 767

Berlin Hauptbahnhof: 733–736, 773, 846–847

Berlin Natural History Museum: 816–817

Berlin Open Air Festival: 736, 983

Berlin Philharmonic: 816

Berlin Story Bookstore: 760, 822

Berlin Underground Association: 745

Berlin Wall: 727, 731, 792–793, 809, 917–918; Checkpoint Charlie, 742–743, 789–791; Documentation Center, 803; fragments, 785–786, 803–804, 806; guided tours, 746; Memorial, 742, 793, 800, 801–804; Victims Memorial, 752–753

Berlin Zoo and Aquarium: 747, 819–820

“Bermuda Triangle” (Freiburg): 303, 314

Besucherzentrum Loreley: 459–460

Bettwar: 360

Beverages: 947–949. See also Beer; Wine and vineyards

Biberwier Luge Course: 188

Biergartens: See Beer gardens/halls

Biking (bike rentals): bikes on trains, 967; Bacharach, 462; Baden-Baden, 280–281; Bavaria, 131, 133, 140, 147, 152, 171, 179; Beilstein, 516–517; Berlin, 740–741, 746; Cochem, 498–499; Cologne, 543; Dresden, 685, 714–715; Elbe River Valley, 647; Forggensee, 140; Freiburg, 300–301; Füssen, 131, 133, 140; Hamburg, 873; Mosel Valley, 495, 498–499, 516–517; Munich, 22, 27, 29, 32, 92; Potsdam, 852–853; Reutte, 131, 179; Rhine Valley, 446; Rothenburg, 339, 360; Salzburg, 242; Trier, 521; Würzburg, 385–386

Binnenalster (Hamburg): 878–879, 881

Bishop’s Museum (Trier): 529–530

Black Forest: 275–332; hiking, 292, 311, 323–325, 329; map, 276; scenic drive, 325–332. See also Baden-Baden; Freiburg; Staufen

Black Forest clocks: 323, 328, 329, 330–332

Black Forest Museum (Triberg): 329

Black Forest Open-Air Museum (Vogtsbauernhof): 327–328

Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider): 74–75

Blue Wonder Bridge: 714–715

BMW-Welt and Museum (Munich): 31, 90–91

Boating: 140, 715

Boat travel and cruises: 766; Berlin, 746, 748; Cologne, 541; Dresden, 715; Elbe River, 647, 715; Frankfurt, 413; Hamburg, 877, 879, 891–892; Königssee, 273; Mosel River, 494–495, 502, 516–517; Rhine River, 444–445, 449, 455–456; Salzburg, 205; Warnemünde, 848. See also Ferries

Bode Museum (Berlin): 780

Bonn: 539, 560

Books, recommended: 984–986

Boppard: 449–450

Bornstedt Royal Estate (Potsdam): 859

Brahms (Johannes) Museum (Hamburg): 886

Brandenburg Gate (Berlin): 742, 747, 753–754

Braubach: 455–456

Bread Market Square (Füssen): 138

Breitenwang: 178, 184; sleeping, 190–191

Brienner Strasse (Munich): 54

Bröhan Museum (Berlin): 821–822

Brühlsche Terrasse (Dresden): 695

Budgeting: 4–8

Burg Eltz: 506–512; map, 507

Bürgerspital (Würzburg): 403

Burggarten: See Castle Garden

Burggasse (Rothenburg): 352–353

Burgtor Gate (Rothenburg): 350–351

Business hours: 922–923

Bus travel (buses): 967–968; map, 958–959; Romantic Road, 115, 146, 380–382, 438–439. See also specific destinations

C

Cable cars: See Funiculars

Cabs: tipping, 927. See also specific destinations

Cafés: See specific destinations

Campgrounds: 463, 469, 513

Caracalla Baths (Baden-Baden): 288–289

Car insurance: 971

Car leasing: 5, 971–972

Car navigation options: 970–971

Carnival (Cologne): 541

Carnival of Cultures (Berlin): 736, 982

Car rentals: 5, 12, 968–970. See also specific destinations

Car travel: 972; Austria, 199, 202

Car travel (driving): 972–976; best three-week trip, 10–11; distance and time, 974–975; road signs, 972. See also specific destinations

Casino, in Baden-Baden: 282, 289–290

Castle Garden (Nürnberg), 577; (Rothenburg), 350–351, 359; (St. Goar), 486

Castles: architecture, 913; Bad Mergentheim, 374; Beilstein’s Castle, 515–516; Cochem Castle, 499, 501; Ehrenberg Castle Ensemble, 178, 180–181, 184–186; Ehrenfels Castle, 455; Eltz Castle, 506–512; Füssen High Castle, 139; Gutenfels Castle, 452–454; Hohenschwangau Castle, 152–153; Katz Castle, 450–451; Lahneck Castle, 447–448; Liebenstein Castle, 450; Linderhof Castle, 168–171; Marksburg Castle, 448–449, 455–459; Maus Castle, 450; Neuschwanstein Castle, 147, 153–154; Nürnberg Imperial Castle, 576–577; Pfalz Castle, 452–454; Reichenstein Castle, 454–455; Rheinfels Castle, 450, 459, 482–489; Rheinstein Castle, 454–455, 460; Sooneck Castle, 454; Stahleck Castle, 454; Staufen Castle, 320; Sterrenberg Castle, 450; Toppler Castle, 359; Wartburg Castle, 602–603, 627–630; Weikersheim, 375. See also Ludwig II castles

Catholic and Protestant differences: 602

Catholic Church of the Royal Court (Dresden): 709–710

Cecilienhof (Potsdam): 859–860

Cell (mobile) phones: 13, 949–954

Chain Bridge (Nürnberg): 579

Chancellery (Berlin): 747, 749, 773

Chapel of Reconciliation (Berlin): 804

Chapel of the Three Magi (Cologne): 551

Chapel of the Virgin (Cologne): 551–552

Charlottenburg Palace (Berlin): 820–822

Checkpoint Charlie (Berlin): 742–743, 789–791

Children’s Museum (Dresden): 712

Chile-Haus (Hamburg): 884

Chinese Tower Beer Garden (Munich): 77, 111

Chocolate: 48, 319, 322, 554–555, 611, 784, 884

Chocoversum Chocolate Museum (Hamburg): 884

Christmas markets: 8; Aachen, 561; Dresden, 685; Freiburg, 300; Munich, 21; Nürnberg, 566, 575; Rothenburg, 335, 339, 345, 361; Salzburg, 202; Würzburg, 397

Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 357, 361

Christmas Village (Rothenburg): 357, 361

Churches: architecture, 912. See also specific churches

Church of All Saints (Wittenberg): 636

Church of Our Lady: See Frauenkirche

Clara Church (Nürnberg): 569

Climate: 8, 989

Clock Museum (Furtwangen): 330–332

Clocks: See Cuckoo clocks

Clothing sizes: 989

Cochem: 497–506; eating, 505–506; map, 500; sights/activities, 499–502; sleeping, 503–504; tourist information, 498; transportation, 498, 506

Cochem Castle: 499, 501

Coin Cabinet (Dresden): 704

Cold War: 917; Berlin, 737, 760–761, 784–791, 804–806; Dresden, 680; Leipzig, 650, 661–665; terminology, 737

Cologne: 539–559; eating, 557–559; helpful hints, 541, 543; map, 542; planning tips, 540; self-guided walk, 543–547; shopping, 546–547; sights/activities, 543–555; sleeping, 555–557; tourist information, 540; tours, 543; transportation, 540–541, 559

Cologne Cathedral: 547–552; map, 548

Cologne City Hall: 546

Cologne Opera House: 547

Commerzbank (Frankfurt): 418

Concentration camps: 116–123, 860–869

Congress Hall (Nürnberg): 585

Contemporary History Forum (Leipzig): 661–662

Convent Garden (Rothenburg): 349

Costs of trip: 4–8

Craftsmen’s Courtyard (Nürnberg): 568

Cranach, Lucas: 580, 602, 604, 631, 634, 637–644, 698, 812–813

Cranach Courtyard (Wittenberg): 637–638

Credit cards: 12, 923–927

Creglingen: 375–376

Cross of Nails: 708

Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises

Cuckoo clocks: 323, 328, 329, 330–331, 482

Cuisine: 942–947; Berlin, 835, 836; Cologne, 557; Dresden, 721; Erfurt, 625; Frankfurt, 433–434; Hamburg, 903; Leipzig, 676–677; Munich, 103–104; Nürnberg, 596

Currency and exchange: 923–925

Customs regulations: 929

Cuvilliés Theater (Munich): 56, 64–65

Cycling: See Biking

D

Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial: 31, 90, 116–123; map, 119; tours, 28, 32, 117–118

Dallmayr Delicatessen (Munich): 48, 114

Davidstrasse (Hamburg): 886, 888–889

DB Museum (Nürnberg): 581

DDR Museum (Berlin): 743, 782–783

DDR Watchtower (Berlin): 785

Debit cards: 12, 923–927

Detwang: 360, 376

Deutsche Kinemathek Film and TV Museum (Berlin): 743, 809–810

Deutscher Dom (Berlin): 783

Deutsches Eck (Koblenz): 492

Deutsches Historisches Museum (Berlin): 742, 780–782

Deutsches Hygiene-Museum (Dresden): 711–712

Deutsches Museum (Munich): 31, 79–83

Deutsches Theatre (Munich): 94

Deutsches Uhrenmuseum (Furtwangen): 330–332

Dietrich, Marlene: 282, 810, 860

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Dinkelsbühl: 376–377

Dinkelsbühl City History Museum: 377

Dinosaurs: 816–817

Dirndls, shopping for: 93, 214

Discounts: 923

Domforum (Cologne): 553

Domplatz (Erfurt): 614, 618–619, 619

DomQuartier Museums (Salzburg): 208–209, 223–224

Dreikönigenhaus (Trier): 525

Dresden: 679–726; eating, 721–725; helpful hints, 684–685; maps, 682–683, 689, 722; nightlife, 716–717; planning tips, 680; self-guided walk, 687–697; sights, 687–716; sleeping, 717–721; tourist information, 681; tours, 686–687; transportation, 681, 684, 685–686, 726

Dresden City Festival: 685, 983

Dresden Glockenspiel: 691

Dresden Military History Museum: 713

Dresden Opera House: 687, 710–711

Drinks: 947–949. See also Beer; Wine and vineyards

Driving: See Car travel

Dürer, Albrecht: 69–70, 345, 353, 483, 554, 568, 572, 580, 698, 812; House (Nürnberg), 578–579

Dwarf Park (Salzburg): 236

DZ Bank Building (Berlin): 755, 773

E

Eagle’s Nest: 268–269, 271–272

Eastern Berlin: 730–732, 768–806; eating, 836–844; maps, 770–771, 828–829, 838–839; self-guided walk, 759–768; sights, 768–806; sleeping, 826–832

East Side Gallery (Berlin): 806

Eating: 939–949; budgeting, 5; budget tips, 941–942; restaurant phrases, 994; tipping, 927, 941. See also Cuisine; and specific destinations

Eau de Cologne: 546–547

Echelsbacher Bridge: 160–161

Economy: xiv–xv, xxi, 919–920

Egapark (Erfurt): 622

Egyptian Collection (Berlin): 776–778

Egyptian Museum (Munich): 30, 73–74

Ehenbichl: 178; sleeping, 191–192

Ehrenberg Castle Ensemble: 178, 180–181, 184–186

Ehrenberg Ruins: 181, 184–185

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress (Koblenz): 493

Ehrenfels Castle: 455

Ehrwald: 174–175

Eibsee: 174, 176

Eisenach: 627–631

Eiserner Steg Bridge (Frankfurt): 424

Eisleben: 600, 622

Elbe River: 681, 687, 695, 714–715, 871; cruises, 647, 715, 877

Elbe River Valley: 647

Elbestrasse (Frankfurt): 415–416

Elbhangfest (Dresden): 685, 983

Elbphilharmonie Concert Hall (Hamburg): 880, 895–896

Electricity: 923

Eltz Castle: 506–512; map, 507

Email: 956. See also specific destinations

Embassy, US (Berlin): 755, 981

Emergencies: 922

Emigration Museum (Hamburg): 881, 898–899

English Conversation Club (Rothenburg): 370

English Garden (Munich): 31, 77–78; eating, 111

English Theatre Frankfurt: 412

Epiphany: 173, 982

Erfurt: 604–627; eating, 625–626; helpful hints, 606–607; map, 608–609; planning tips, 605; self-guided walk, 607–614; sights, 607–623; sleeping, 623–625; tourist information, 606; transportation, 606, 626–627

Erfurt Augustinian Monastery: 614–616

Erfurt Cathedral: 614, 619–620

Erfurt City Museum: 621–622

Erfurt Old Synagogue: 612, 616–618

Erfurt Town Hall: 613

Ettal Monastery: 171–173

EurAide: 20, 734, 846

Euro currency: 923–925

Europa Center (Berlin): 818

European Central Bank (Frankfurt): 419

F

Falcon Show (Cochem): 499

Fallerschein: 188–190

Fassbender & Rausch (Berlin): 784

Felsenburg Neurathen: 716

Fernsehturm (Berlin): 767–768, 773, 837

Ferries: Hamburg, 871, 877, 880, 892–893; Mosel River, 497, 513; Rhine River, 446, 480

Festival of Lights (Berlin): 736–737, 983

Festivals: 982–984. See also specific destinations

Festung Marienberg (Würzburg): 399–400

Festungsensemble Ehrenberg: 178, 180–181, 184–186

Film and TV Museum (Berlin): 743, 809–810

Films, recommended: 986–988

Fingerhut Museum (Creglingen): 376

Finkenwerder (Hamburg): 893

Fischmarkt (Cologne), 546; (Erfurt), 612–613; (Hamburg), 873

Flight Museum (Munich): 82–83

Folk evenings, in Reutte: 186

Folk museums: 327–328, 360–361, 621

Food: See Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations

Forggensee: 140

Forum Confluentes (Koblenz): 492

Fountain of the Seven Virtues (Nürnberg): 573

Franciscan Church (Rothenburg), 351; (Salzburg), 224, 246

Franconia Fountain (Würzburg): 394

Franconian Open-Air Museum (Bad Windsheim): 360–361

Frankenwerft (Cologne): 545–546

Frankfurt: 407–441; arrival in, 409; eating, 433–438; helpful hints, 409, 412; maps, 410–411, 430–431; planning tips, 407–408; self-guided walk, 413–424; sights/activities, 413–427; sleeping, 427–433; tourist information, 408–409; tours, 412–413; transportation, 409, 412, 438–441

Frankfurt Airport: 371, 439–440

Frankfurt Card: 408–409

Frankfurt City Model: 426

Frankfurt Fair: 418–419

Frankfurt Hahn Airport: 440–441, 497

Frankfurt Opera House: 419

Frankfurt Town Hall: 422

Frauenkirche (Dresden), 694–695, 707–709; (Munich), 46–47; (Nürnberg), 574–575; (Trier), 529

Frauentor (Nürnberg): 567–568

Frederick the Great: 730, 759, 762, 763, 783, 853–858

Freiburg: 297–315; eating, 313–315; helpful hints, 300–301; map, 298–299; self-guided walk, 301–306; sights/activities, 301–311; sleeping, 311–313; tourist information, 299–300; tours, 301; transportation, 300, 301, 315

Freiburg Cathedral: 306–309

Freiburg City History Museum: 304–305, 309

Freihofgasse (Staufen): 319

Freisaalweg: 242

French Cathedral (Berlin): 784

Fressgass’ (Frankfurt): 420, 435

Friedrichsbad (Baden-Baden): 287–288

Friedrichstrasse (Berlin): 761

Friedrichstrasse Station (Berlin): 782

Friese (Rothenburg): 361–362

Fünf Höfe Passage (Munich): 48, 94

Funiculars (gondolas): Baden-Baden, 291; Cochem, 501; Koblenz, 492–493; Oberammergau, 165–166; Reutte, 187–188; Salzburg, 204, 228, 231; Tegelberg, 157; Zugspitze, 174

Fürstenzug (Dresden): 693

Furtwangen: 330–332

Füssen: 126, 131–146; eating, 144–145; helpful hints, 132–133; maps, 128–129, 136–137; nightlife, 145; self-guided walk, 133–139; sights/activities, 133–141; sleeping, 141–143; tourist information, 132; transportation, 126–127, 130–131, 132, 145–146

Füssen Franciscan Monastery: 135

Füssen Heritage Museum: 138

Füssen High Castle: 139

G

Galeries Lafayette (Berlin): 761, 840

Garmisch: 174–175

Gärtnerplatz (Munich): 95

Gasthaus zum Löwen (Staufen): 317

Gedächtniskirche (Berlin): 743, 747, 817–818

Gehry, Frank: 755, 773

Gemäldegalerie (Berlin): 743, 811–815

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Dresden): 691, 698–699

Gendarmenmarkt (Berlin): 742, 783–784, 837, 840

Georgenburse (Erfurt): 616

Gera River: 610–611

Gerberau (Freiburg): 309, 313

German Cathedral (Berlin): 783

German Christmas Museum (Rothenburg): 357, 361

German Clock Museum (Furtwangen): 330–332

German Finance Ministry (Berlin): 788–789

German History Museum (Berlin): 742, 780–782

German Hunting and Fishing Museum (Munich): 46

German Hygiene Museum (Dresden): 711–712

Germanic National Museum (Nürnberg): 580–581

Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Nürnberg): 580–581

German Order Museum (Bad Mergentheim): 374

German Parliament (Berlin): See Reichstag

German Railway Museum (Nürnberg): 581

German Resistance Memorial (Berlin): 807–808

German Stadium (Nürnberg): 587

German State Opera (Berlin): 763

“Germany”: use of term, 909

Gernsbacher Strasse (Baden-Baden): 285

Getreidegasse (Salzburg): 208, 221–222

Gewandhaus (Leipzig): 660, 672

Gliding: See Hang gliding

Glockengasse 4 (Cologne): 547

Glockenspiel (Dresden), 691; (Munich), 34–35; (Salzburg), 214

Glyptothek (Munich): 76

Goethe (paddlewheeler): 445

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von: 317, 399, 650, 656–657, 658; House (Frankfurt), 424

Goldene Reiter (Dresden): 696–697

Golf, in Cochem: 502

Gondolas: See Funiculars

Gottschedstrasse (Leipzig): 675–676

Government: xv, 919–920

Great Road (Nürnberg): 585, 587

Green Market (Rothenburg): 345

Green Vault (Dresden): 13, 691, 701–704

Grosse Freiheit (Hamburg): 889–890

Grosse Hamburger Strasse (Berlin): 799

Grosse Strasse (Nürnberg): 585, 587

Grosse Wallanlagen (Hamburg): 885–886

Grünwälderstrasse (Freiburg): 306, 313–314

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 977; updates, 3, 22, 203, 737

Gutach River: 329

Gutenberg Museum (Mainz): 561

Gutenfels Castle: 452–454

H

Hackesche Höfe (Berlin): 796

Hackescher Markt (Berlin): 796, 840

HafenCity (Hamburg): 880, 894–895

Hahn Airport (Frankfurt): 440–441, 497

Hahnenkammbahn: 187–188

Hallein Salt Mine: 242–243

Hallstatt: 243–244

Hamburg: 870–906; at a glance, 880–881; eating, 903–905; helpful hints, 873, 876; history of, 883; map, 874–875; nightlife, 903; planning tips, 871; sights, 878–899; sleeping, 899–903; tourist information, 872; tours, 876–877; transportation, 872–873, 876, 906

Hamburg Arts and Crafts Museum: 879, 881, 882

Hamburg Card: 872

Hamburg City Hall: 878, 881, 902

Hamburg Kunsthalle: 879, 881

Hamburg Museum: 880, 885

Handwerkerhof (Nürnberg): 568

Hangar-7 (Salzburg): 243

Hang gliding: 157, 179, 187

Hansa Haus (Leipzig): 657

Harburg: 379

Hauptstrasse (Dresden): 696–697, 724

Hauptstrasse (Staufen): 317

Hauptwache (Frankfurt): 420

Haus der Geschichte (Wittenberg): 646

Haus der Kunst (Munich): 78

Haus Schwarzenberg (Berlin): 796–797

Haus zum Sonneborn (Erfurt): 613–614

Heidelberg: 561

Heilig-Geist-Spital (Nürnberg): 573–574

Heilig-Geist-Spitalkirche (Füssen): 138

Heimatwerk (Salzburg): 214

Heine, Heinrich: 422, 451, 463, 763

Heinrich Heine Viewpoint (Bacharach): 463

Helaba Bank (Frankfurt): 419

Hellbrunner Allee (Salzburg): 242

Hellbrunn Palace and Gardens (Salzburg): 208, 240–242

Herbertstrasse (Hamburg): 888

Herrgottskirche (Creglingen): 375–376

Herrngasse (Rothenburg): 343–344, 351

Highline 179 Suspension Footbridge (Reutte): 185–186

Hiking: Almbach Gorge, 273–274; Bacharach, 467; Baden-Baden, 290–291; Bavaria, 140–141, 149–150, 155, 165–166, 185–186, 188; Black Forest, 292, 311, 323–325, 329; Burg Eltz, 509–511; Cochem, 501; Freiburg, 311; Königssee, 273; Mosel Valley, 501, 509–511; Nördlingen, 378; Rothenburg, 357–358, 359–360; St. Goar, 480, 483; Salzburg, 234–235, 273–274

Himmelreich: 325

Hinterzarten: 325, 326

Historical Merchant House (Freiburg): 304

Historic Green Vault (Dresden): 13, 691, 701–703

History: xviii–xxi, 907–919. See also specific destinations

Hitler, Adolf: 43, 53, 265, 267, 268, 270–272, 380, 582, 583, 586, 758, 915–916; bunker site, in Berlin, 757–759; Eagle’s Nest, 268–269, 271–272

Hofbräuhaus (Munich): 30, 49–50, 104–105

Höfen: 178, 184, 187–188; sleeping, 193

Hofgarten (Munich): 55

Hofkirche (Dresden), 709–710; (Würzburg), 393

Hohensalzburg Fortress (Salzburg): 208, 217, 228, 230–234; concerts, 244; map, 230–231

Hohenschwangau Castle: 152–153

Hohenzollern Bridge (Cologne): 545

Hohe Strasse (Cologne): 544, 546–547

Holbein, Hans: 698, 812

Holidays: 982–984

Höllental: 325

Holocaust memorial (Berlin): 742, 756–757, 773

Holocaust Memorial (Frankfurt): 425–426

Holocaust memorial (Leipzig): 668

Holy Ghost Hospital (Nürnberg): 573–574

Holy Spirit Church (Füssen): 138

Horse races, in Baden-Baden: 280

Hospital Tower (Oberwesel): 477

Hostels: overview, 938–939. See also specific destinations

Hotel Adlon (Berlin): 755

Hotel Bayerischerhof (Munich): 47–48, 94

Hotel Hirsch (Füssen): 134, 141–142

Hotels: budgeting, 5; overview, 934–935; rates and deals, 933–934; reservations, 9, 936–937. See also specific destinations

Hot springs: See Baths

House of History (Wittenberg): 646

House of the Three Magi (Trier): 525

House of the Whale (Freiburg): 302

Humboldt-Box (Berlin): 765–766, 773

Humboldt-Forum Berliner Schloss (Berlin): 747, 765–766

Humboldt University (Berlin): 762

Hundertwasserschule (Wittenberg): 646

Hygiene Museum (Dresden): 711–712

I

Imhoff Chocolate Museum (Cologne): 554–555

Immigration (immigrants): xxiii, 795

Imperial Baths (Trier): 533

Imperial Castle (Nürnberg): 576–577

Imperial Chapel: See Hofkirche

Imperial City Museum (Rothenburg): 348–349

Imperial Throne Room (Trier): 530–531

International Literature Festival (Berlin): 736, 983

International Maritime Museum (Hamburg): 880, 897–898

Internet access: 956. See also specific destinations

Isar River: 55, 92

Ishtar Gate: 775–776

J

Jackson, Michael: 379, 755; Memorial (Munich), 47–48

Jazzfest Berlin: 737, 983

Jesuitenplatz (Baden-Baden): 296

Jewish Cemetery (Beilstein), 516; (Frankfurt), 425–426

Jewish Ghetto (Frankfurt): 425–426

Jewish History Museum (Munich): 41

Jewish Museum (Frankfurt): 426

Jewish Museum Berlin: 743, 791, 794–795

Jewish Synagogue (Beilstein), 514–515; (Berlin), 743, 798–799; (Erfurt), 612, 616–618; (Munich), 41

Jugendstil: See Art Nouveau

Jungfernstieg (Hamburg): 878–879

K

KaDeWe (Berlin): 819, 822–823, 845

Kaiserburg (Nürnberg): 576–577

Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse (Freiburg): 303

Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz (Füssen): 134

Kaiserstrasse (Frankfurt), 414–415, 436–437; (Nürnberg), 573

Kaiserthermen (Trier): 533

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (Berlin): 743, 747, 817–818

Kandelgipfel: 326

Kapitelplatz (Salzburg): 216–217

Karden: 509, 510–511

Karli, the (Leipzig): 669–670, 672; eating, 676; sleeping, 674–675

Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse (Berlin): 766–768

Karl-Marx-Allee (Berlin): 804–805

Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village (Rothenburg): 357, 361

Katholiche Hofkirche (Dresden): 709–710

Katz Castle: 450–451

Katzenturm (Oberwesel): 477–478

Kaufhaus des Westens (Berlin): 819, 822–823, 845

Kaufingerstrasse (Munich): 44–45

Kennedys Museum (Berlin): 799

Kettensteg (Nürnberg): 579

Kiliani Volksfest (Würzburg): 385, 983

King’s Castles: See Ludwig II castles

Kino Arsenal (Berlin): 810

Kirchzarten: 323

Klassik Open Air (Nürnberg): 565, 983

Kleinmarkthalle (Frankfurt): 421, 436

Klimt, Gustav: 73, 658, 706

Klingentor (Rothenburg): 348, 358

Klinger, Max: 657–658

Klingersaal (Dresden): 706

Klostergarten (Oberwesel): 480

Kloster Museum St. Märgen: 323

Kloster St. Mang (Füssen): 138

Koblenz: 447, 491–493

Kollegienkirche (Salzburg): 220

Kollwitz, Käthe: 763; Museum (Berlin), 743, 819; Museum (Cologne), 555

Kollwitzplatz (Berlin): 843–844

Köln: See Cologne

Kolumba Diocesan Museum (Cologne): 547, 553

Königliche Kristall-Therme (near Füssen): 139–140

Königssee: 272–273

Königstrasse (Dresden), 723–724; (Nürnberg), 568–569, 589–590

Konstantin Basilika (Trier): 530–531

Konviktstrasse (Freiburg): 305

Krameramtsstuben (Hamburg): 885

Kreuzberg (Berlin): 795–796

Ku’damm (Berlin): 732, 817, 822

Kuenburg Bastion (Salzburg): 233–234

Kuhhirtenturm (Oberwesel): 479

Kulturforum (Berlin): 811–816

Kulturhaus (Oberwesel): 476

Kulturpalast (Dresden): 692

Kunsthalle (Hamburg): 879, 881

Kurfürstendamm (Berlin): 732, 817, 822

Kurhaus (Baden-Baden): 282, 289–290

KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau: See Dachau Concentration Camp

L

Lahneck Castle: 447–448

Landsberg am Lech: 380

Language: online translation tips, 923; restaurant phrases, 994; survival phrases, 993

Language barrier: 950

Laundry: See specific destinations

Lechfall: 132

Lech River: 131, 132, 135, 141, 178, 188

Lechweg: 188

Leipzig: 650–678; eating, 675–677; helpful hints, 655; history of, 658–659, 663; map, 652–653; nightlife, 672; planning tips, 650–651; sights, 655–672; sleeping, 672–675; tourist information, 651; tours, 651; transportation, 654, 677–678

Leipzig Card: 651

Leipzig City History Museum: 655–656

Leipzig Contemporary History Forum: 661–662

Leipzig Museum of Fine Arts: 657–658

Leipzig Old Town Hall: 655–656

Leipzig Opera House: 660, 672

Leipzig University: 651, 658, 659, 660, 675

Lenbachhaus (Munich): 74–75

Leopoldsplatz (Baden-Baden): 286

Lermoos: 176, 188

Lichtentaler Allee (Baden-Baden): 290–291

Lichter Festival (Cologne): 541, 543, 983

Liebenstein Castle: 450

Liebfrauenkirche (Trier): 529

Linderhof Castle: 168–171

Loden-Frey Verkaufshaus (Munich): 93

Lorch: 454

Loreley, the: 451; Visitors Center, 459–460

Loreley-Bob Luge Ride: 460

Lorenzkirche (Nürnberg): 570–573

Loschwitz Bridge (near Dresden): 714–715

Lübeck: 899

Ludwig Beck (Munich): 94

Ludwig II (“Mad King”): 42–43, 46, 62, 87–89, 125, 151, 152–154

Ludwig II (“Mad King”) castles: 147–154, 168–171; eating, 150–151, 158–159; maps, 149, 156; orientation, 147–152; reservations, 148; sleeping near, 158; tours, from Munich, 123–124, 148–149; transportation, 147

Ludwig Museum (Cologne): 554

Lüftlmalerei: 130, 161, 165

Luge: 460

Luges: 157–158, 166, 188; about, 189

Luitpoldstrasse (Nürnberg): 590

Lüneburg: 899

Lustgarten (Berlin): 764

Luther, Martin: xviii–xix, 35, 42, 68, 69, 571, 581, 598, 600–604, 910; Birth House (Eisleben), 622; Erfurt, 610, 614–616; House (Wittenberg), 641–645; legacy of, 645–646; life of, 600–604; Wartburg Castle, 602–603, 627–630; Wittenberg, 631, 636–646

Luther Garden (Wittenberg): 646

Lutherhaus (Wittenberg): 641–645

Lutherland: 598–649; map, 599; planning tips, 599. See also specific destinations

M

Mädler Passage (Leipzig): 656–657

Mail: 956–957. See also specific destinations

Mainfränkisches Museum (Würzburg): 400

Main River: 384, 398, 405, 408, 426; cruises, 413

Main Tower (Frankfurt): 418–419

Mainz: 561

Maps: about/to buy, 978; legend, 2. See also Map Index

Marienberg Fortress (Würzburg): 399–400

Marienbrücke: 152, 155

Marien Church (Berlin): 767

Marienhof (Munich): 48

Marienkapelle (Würzburg): 397–398

Marienplatz (Munich): 30, 33–35; beer gardens/halls, 49–50, 104–105, 108–110; eating, 111–112

Marionette Exhibit (Salzburg): 233

Marionette Theater (Salzburg): 245

Markets: Berlin, 795, 800, 822, 823; Dresden, 697; Frankfurt, 421, 436; Freiburg, 303–304, 313; Hamburg, 873; Leipzig, 655; Munich, 39; Rothenburg, 345; Salzburg, 203, 220; Wittenberg, 635. See also Christmas markets

Market Square/Marktplatz (Baden-Baden), 283; (Beilstein), 515; (Frankfurt), 317–318; (Nürnberg), 574–576; (Oberwesel), 476; (Rothenburg), 342–344, 352; (Staufen), 317–318; (Trier), 525–527, 537; (Wittenberg), 636–637; (Würzburg), 397

Marksburg Castle: 448–449, 455–459

Marktstrasse (Erfurt): 613–614

Marstallmuseum (Munich): 88–89

Martinstor (Freiburg): 303, 314

Marx, Karl: 525, 762, 764, 767, 805; House (Trier), 534

Mary’s Bridge: 152, 155

Mathematics-Physics Salon (Dresden): 690, 699–700

Mauerpark (Berlin): 800

Maus Castle: 450

Mauthalle (Nürnberg): 570

Maximilianstrasse (Munich): 51–52, 94

Max-Joseph-Platz (Munich): 52

Maypoles: 40, 982; about, 379

MDR building (Leipzig): 659–660, 675

Medical help: 922

Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum (Rothenburg): 355–357

Meistertrunk Show (Rothenburg): 338, 342–343, 982

Melanchthon, Philipp: 634, 636, 637, 639, 640, 666; House (Wittenberg), 645–646

Memorial to Politicians Who Opposed Hitler (Berlin): 752

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Berlin): 742, 756–757, 773

Memorium Nürnberger Prozesse (Nürnberg): 586, 587–589

Mendelssohn, Felix: 658, 667, 669

Merchants’ Bridge (Erfurt): 611

Merkel, Angela: xv, 658, 675, 775, 919–920

Merkur (Baden-Baden): 291

Mesenich: 517

Metric system: 988–989

Michaelisstrasse (Erfurt): 612

Michael Jackson Memorial (Munich): 47–48

Michelfeldturm I and II (Oberwesel): 479

Military History Museum (Dresden): 713

Miniatur Wunderland (Hamburg): 880–881, 897

Mirabell Gardens and Palace (Salzburg): 209, 236–237, 244–245

Mittelrhein Museum (Koblenz): 492

Mobile phones: 13, 949–954

Mönchsberg (Salzburg): 209, 221, 227–235; eating, 235, 260; funiculars, 204, 228, 231

Money: 923–928; budgeting, 4–8

Monument of the Battle of the Nations (Leipzig): 670–672

Monument to German WWII Refugees (Nürnberg): 569–570

Monument to the Murdered Sinti (Gypsies) and Roma of Europe (Berlin): 753

Moosstrasse (Salzburg): 254–256

Moritzbastei (Leipzig): 660, 672, 675

Mosaiksaal (Dresden): 706

Moselkern: 509–510

Mosel River: 494, 512, 513; cruises, 494–495, 502, 516–517; ferries, 497, 513; maps, 496, 507

Mosel Valley: 494–518; maps, 496, 507; transportation, 494–495, 497. See also Beilstein; Burg Eltz; Cochem

Mount Kandel: 326

Movies, recommended: 986–988

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus: 202, 212, 215–216, 218, 222, 226, 239, 247, 385; Birthplace (Salzburg), 208, 225–227; concerts, 244, 245–246; Residence (Salzburg), 209, 237–238

Mozartplatz (Salzburg): 212

Mozartsteg (Salzburg): 210–212

Munich: 16–116; at a glance, 30–31; arrival in, 20–21; day trips, 116–124; eating, 103–114; helpful hints, 21–22; history of, 42–43; nightlife, 94–95; planning tips, 16–17; self-guided walk, 33–55; shopping, 92–94; sights, 33–92; sleeping, 95–103; tourist information, 17, 20; tours, 28–29, 32–33; transportation, 20–21, 22–28, 114–116

Munich City Museum: 30, 41–42, 65–67

Munich Jewish Synagogue: 41

Munich New Town Hall: 34

Munich Old Town Hall: 35

Münsterplatz (Freiburg): 303–305

Museum Berggruen (Berlin): 820–821

Museum Brandhorst (Munich): 75–76

Museum Embankment (Frankfurt): 418, 427

Museum Island (Berlin): 764, 773–780, 836–837; map, 774

Museum Judengasse (Frankfurt): 425–426

Museum Ludwig (Cologne): 554

Museum of Decorative Arts (Berlin): 815–816

Museum of Fine Arts (Leipzig): 657–658

Museum of Islamic Art (Berlin): 776

Museum of Modern Art (Salzburg): 235

Museum of the Bavarian Kings (near Hohenschwangau): 155–156

Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (Berlin): 742–743, 790–791, 793

Museum of Transportation (Munich): 31, 81–82

Museum Quarter (Munich): 67–77; map, 67

Music: Berlin, 823–825; Dresden, 716–717; Erfurt, 606–607; Freiburg, 300; Hamburg, 889; Leipzig, 660, 672; Nürnberg, 565–565, 983; Salzburg, 202, 244–247; Wittenberg, 635–636. See also Folk evenings, in Reutte; Opera; Sound of Music; and specific composers

Musical Instruments Museum (Berlin): 816

Mustard Mill (Cochem): 502

N

National Theater (Munich): 52

Natural History Museum (Berlin): 816–817

Nazi Documentation Center (Munich): 30, 76–77

Nazi Documentation Center (Nürnberg): 583–585

Nazi Documentation Center and Bunker (Obersalzberg): 271

Nazis (Nazism): xix–xx, 74–75, 177, 915–916; Berchtesgaden, 265, 268–272; Berlin, 744, 752–753, 756–759, 763, 784–791, 796–797; books about, 984–986; Munich, 43, 53, 76–77; Nürnberg, 562, 566–567, 569–570, 582–588; terminology, 916. See also Concentration camps; Hitler, Adolf

Nefertiti, Queen, bust: 777–778

Neue Pinakothek (Munich): 31, 72–73

Neue Residenz (Salzburg): 213–214

Neues Museum (Berlin): 742, 776–778

Neues Museum (Nürnberg): 581

Neues Palais (Potsdam): 857–858

Neue Synagogue (Berlin): 798–799

Neue Wache (Berlin): 763–764

Neumarkt (Dresden): 694

Neumünster Basilica (Würzburg): 396–397

Neuschwanstein Castle: 147, 153–154; eating, 150–151, 158–159; orientation, 147–152; reservations, 13, 148; sleeping near, 158; tours, from Munich, 123–124, 148–149; transportation, 147

New Green Vault (Dresden): 703–704

New Masters Gallery (Dresden): 705–706

New Palace (Potsdam): 857–858

New Residenz (Salzburg): 213–214

New Synagogue (Berlin): 743, 798–799

New Town (Dresden): 681, 687–697, 712–713; eating, 723–724; map, 689; sleeping, 720–721

Niederwald Monument: 455

Nightlife: budgeting, 6–7. See also Music; and specific destinations

Night Watchman (Dinkelsbühl), 377; (Rothenburg), 339–340

Nikolaikirche (Hamburg), 880, 882–884; (Leipzig), 661

Nikolaiviertel (Berlin): 766, 837

Nordbahnhof (Berlin): 802–803

Nördlingen: 377–379

Nördlingen City Wall Museum: 378

Nürnberg: 562–597; eating, 593–597; helpful hints, 565–566; history of, 586; maps, 564, 591, 594; planning tips, 562–563; self-guided walk, 567–579; sights, 567–588; sleeping, 589–593; tourist information, 563; tours, 124, 566–567; transportation, 563, 565, 597

Nürnberg Card: 563

Nürnberg City Museum: 576

Nürnberg Historic Art Bunker: 577–578

Nürnberg Imperial Castle: 576–577

Nürnberg Tower House: 573

Nürnberg Trials Courtroom and Museum: 586, 587–589

Nymphenburg Palace (Munich): 31, 83–89; map, 85

Nymphenburg porcelain: 63, 88, 89, 93

Nymphs’ Bath (Dresden): 690

O

Oberammergau: 126, 161–168; transportation, 126–127, 130–131

Oberammergau Church: 165

Oberammergau Museum: 164

Obere Schmiedgasse (Rothenburg): 351–352, 361

Obersalzberg: 270–271; Documentation Center and Bunker, 271

Oberstrasse (Bacharach): 461, 465, 466–467

Oberwesel: 452, 475–480

Oberwesel Town Wall: 476–477

Ochsenturm (Oberwesel): 477–478

Odeonsplatz (Munich): 53–54

Oktoberfest (Munich): 21, 50–51, 983

Oktoberfest Museum (Munich): 51

Old Granary (Nürnberg): 570

Old Main Bridge (Würzburg): 394, 398–399, 405

Old Masters Gallery (Dresden): 691, 698–699

Old Mint (Bacharach): 467

Old Museum (Berlin): 780

Old National Gallery (Berlin): 743, 778–780

Old Synagogue (Erfurt): 612, 616–618

Old Town (Cologne): 540, 546–547

Old Town (Dresden): 681, 687–710; eating, 722–723; maps, 689, 722; sleeping, 718–720

Old Town (Nürnberg): 563, 567–582

Old Town (Rothenburg): 335, 340–357; eating, 366–367, 368–369; map, 341; sleeping, 362–365

Old Town (Salzburg): 197, 223–227; eating, 256–257, 260–261; map, 211; self-guided walk, 210–222; sleeping, 252–253

Olympic Park (Munich): 91–92

Opera: Berlin, 763; Cologne, 547; Dresden, 687, 710–711; Frankfurt, 419; Leipzig, 660, 672; Munich, 94; Salzburg, 247

Operation Gomorrah: 882, 883

Orangerie (Potsdam): 858

Oranienburger Strasse (Berlin): 798, 824, 841

Outer New Town (Dresden): 680, 712–713, 716–717, 725

P

Packing checklist: 991

Palace of Culture (Dresden): 692

Palace of Tears (Berlin): 782

Panorama Museum (Bad Frankenhausen): 622–623

Panorama Museum (Salzburg): 209, 225

Panoramapunkt (Berlin): 810–811

Parade of Nobles (Dresden): 693

Paragliding: 179, 187

Pariser Platz (Berlin): 754–756

Parliament (Berlin): See Reichstag

Passion Play (Oberammergau): 161, 164–165

Passports: 9, 922

Paulskirche (Frankfurt): 421–422

Peaceful Revolution: about, 663

Peace Museum (Remagen): 561

Peasants’ War Panorama (Bad Frankenhausen): 622–623

Pegasus (Salzburg): 205, 236

Pergamon Museum (Berlin): 742, 775–776

Petersberg Citadel (Erfurt): 614, 620–621

Peterskirche: See St. Peter’s Church

Pfalz Castle: 452–454

Pflach: 188

Philharmonic Concert Hall (Berlin): 816

Phone numbers, useful: 981

Phones: 949–957; Austria, 179, 199

Picnics: See specific destinations

Pik-Dame (Frankfurt): 416

Pilatus House (Oberammergau): 163–164

Pinakothek der Moderne (Munich): 31, 73

Pinswang: 178, 193; sleeping, 193

Planten un Blomen (Hamburg): 881, 890–891

Platz der Republik (Berlin): 747, 748–749

Platzl (Munich): 48–49

Plönlein (Rothenburg): 354

Pöllat Gorge: 155, 160–161

Poltersdorf: 517

Population: xiv

Porcelain: 63, 691, 700–701. See also Nymphenburg porcelain

Porcelain Collection (Dresden): 691, 700–701

Porta Nigra (Trier): 524

Posthof (Bacharach): 466

Post offices: 956–957. See also specific destinations

Potsdam: 851–860; map, 854–855; planning tips, 849–851; sights, 853–860

Potsdamer Platz (Berlin): 743, 808–809

Prager Strasse (Dresden): 711

Preachers’ Church (Erfurt): 616

Prenzlauer Berg (Berlin): 732, 743, 799–804, 824; eating, 842–843; sleeping, 826–830

Prince’s Building Museum (Würzburg): 400

Prostitution: 415–417, 798, 886, 888–889

Q

Quartier 206 (Berlin): 784

R

Radisson Blu Hotel (Berlin): 766

“Raft Busters”: 454

Rail passes: 5, 12, 960–961, 964–965, 979

Rail travel: See Train travel

Railway Museum (Nürnberg): 581

Rally Grounds (Nürnberg): 565, 585

Rampart Pavilion (Dresden): 690

Rathausplatz (Freiburg): 301–302

Reader feedback: 13

Red Bull: 243, 257

Red Light District (Hamburg): 888–889

Reeperbahn (Hamburg): 880, 886–890, 903; map, 887

Reformation Day (Wittenberg): 635, 983

Reichenstein Castle: 454–455

Reichsstadt Festival (Rothenburg): 338, 983

Reichstag (Berlin): 749–752, 769, 772–773; climbing cupola, 751–752; orientation, 742, 769; reservations, 13, 769; self-guided tour, 772–773

Remagen: 560–561

Rembrandt van Rijn: 71–72, 223, 554, 658, 699, 814

Rental properties: 939

Residenz (Dresden), 724; (Munich), 30, 52, 55–65; map, 61; (Salzburg),

213–214, 223, 245; (Würzburg), 388–393

Residenz Garden (Würzburg): 393–394

Residenz Museum (Munich): 30, 56, 58–64

Residenzplatz (Salzburg): 213

Residenz Treasury (Munich): 30, 56–58

Resources from Rick Steves: 977–978, 979

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Reutte: 126, 177–195; eating, 193–194; helpful hints, 179; maps, 128–129, 182–183; nightlife, 194; sights/activities, 180–190; sleeping, 190–193; tourist information, 178; transportation, 126–127, 130–131, 178–179, 194–195

Reutte Museum: 186

Rheinfels Castle: 450, 459, 482–489; map, 484

Rheinisches Landesmuseum (Trier): 531–532

Rheinstein Castle: 454–455, 460

Rhine River: 398, 442–444, 461, 462–463, 477–478, 480, 491, 492, 539, 545–546, 560; barge-watching, 452–453; cruises, 444–445, 449, 455–456, 541; ferries, 446, 480; maps, 445, 448

Rhine Valley: 442–493; maps, 445, 448; planning tips, 442–443; transportation, 444–447

Rickmer Rickmers, SS (Hamburg): 881, 894

Riemenschneider, Tilman: 79, 347, 360, 375–376, 395, 397, 400, 580

Ries Crater Museum (Nördlingen): 378

Roman-Germanic Museum (Cologne): 553

Roman-Irish Bath (Baden-Baden): 287–288

Romans, ancient (Roman sites): xviii, 39, 180, 184, 212, 285, 449, 475, 538, 544–545, 907; in Trier, 519, 524–525, 528, 529, 530–534

Romantic Road: 333, 372–382; buses, 115, 146, 380–382, 438–439; map, 373

Römerberg (Frankfurt): 408, 422; eating, 435

Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne): 553

Roncalliplatz (Cologne): 544

Room and board: See Eating; Sleeping; and specific destinations

Rothenburg Historical Town Hall Vaults: 344

Rothenburg Imperial City Museum: 348–349

Rothenburg ob der Tauber: 334–371; eating, 366–370; helpful hints, 338–339; maps, 336–337, 341; planning tips, 334–335; self-guided walks, 340–355; shopping, 361–362; sights/activities, 340–361; sleeping, 362–366; tourist information, 335, 338; tours, 339–340; transportation, 338, 370–371

Rothenburg Town Hall and Tower: 342, 355

Rothenburg Town Wall: 349–350, 357–358

Rottenbuch: 380

Royal Armory (Dresden): 704

Royal Crystal Baths (near Füssen): 139–140

Royal Palace (Dresden): 701–705

Royal Stables Museum (Munich): 88–89

Rubens, Peter Paul: 70–71, 223, 554, 699, 813–814

Rüdesheim: 561

“Runde Ecke” (Leipzig): 662, 664–665

Rupert, Saint: 202, 219

Rupertgasse (Salzburg): 249, 252

Russian Embassy (Berlin): 760

Russian Orthodox Church (Baden-Baden): 291

S

Saalgasse (Frankfurt): 423

Sachsenhausen (Frankfurt): 434–435

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial: 850, 860–869; map, 862

St. Anna Chapel (Füssen): 138

St. Bartholomä Church (Königssee): 273

St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral (Frankfurt): 423–424

St. Gangolf Church (Trier): 526

St. Georg’s Cathedral (Dinkelsbühl): 376–377

St. Georg’s Church (Nördlingen): 378

St. Goar: 450, 480–491; eating, 490–491; map, 481; shopping, 482; sights, 482–489; sleeping, 489–490; tourist information, 482

St. Goarshausen: 459–460

St. Hedwig’s Church (Berlin): 762–763

St. Jakob’s Church (Rothenburg): 345–347

St. Joseph’s Church (Hamburg): 890

St. Kilian’s Cathedral (Würzburg): 394–396

St. Lawrence Church (Nürnberg): 570–573

St. Magnus Basilica (Füssen): 139

St. Märgen: 323–324, 325

St. Martin’s Church (Oberwesel): 478

St. Martin’s Tower (Freiburg): 303, 314

St. Mary Town Church (Wittenberg): 638–641

St. Michael’s Church (Hamburg), 881, 884–885; (Munich), 45–46

St. Nicholas Church: (Leipzig), 661

St. Nicholas Church, Memorial and Tower (Hamburg): 880, 882–884

St. Pauli Elbtunnel (Hamburg): 881, 894

St. Pauli Landungsbrücken Harborfront (Hamburg): 880, 891–894

St. Paul’s Church (Frankfurt): 421–422

St. Peter: 323–325

St. Peter’s Abbey (Salzburg): 223–224

St. Peter’s Cemetery (Salzburg): 209, 218

St. Peter’s Church (Munich), 38–39; (Salzburg), 209, 219–220, 246

St. Peter’s Fountain (Trier): 526–527

St. Rupert’s Fair (Salzburg): 202

St. Sebastian Cemetery (Salzburg): 209, 239–240

St. Sebastian Historic Cemetery (Füssen): 134–135

St. Severus Church (Erfurt): 614, 620

Sts. Peter and Paul Church (Detwang): 360

St. Thomas Church (Leipzig): 666–667

St. Wolfgang’s Church (Rothenburg): 359

Salt mines: 242–243, 272

Salzach River: 197, 211, 228, 235–236, 242; cruises, 205

Salzbergwerk Berchtesgaden: 272

Salzburg: 197–265; at a glance, 208–209; arrival in, 198–199; eating, 256–263; helpful hints, 199, 202–203; maps, 200–201, 211, 230–231, 241, 250–251, 258–259; music, 202, 244–247; planning tips, 196; self-guided walk, 210–222; sights, 210–244; sleeping, 247–256; tourist information, 197–198; tours, 204–210; transportation, 198–199, 203–204, 263–265

Salzburg Card: 198

Salzburg Cathedral: 208, 214–216, 223, 246

Salzburg Festival: 13, 202, 246–247, 983

Salzburg Museum: 208, 224–225

Sanssouci Palace (Potsdam): 856–857

Saunas: See Baths

Sausage (wurst): about, 596, 836, 943–945

Saxon State Opera House (Dresden): 687, 710–711

Saxon Switzerland National Park: 715–716

Saxony: See Dresden

Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection (Berlin): 821

Schauinsland (Freiburg): 310–311

Schaumainkai (Beilstein): 418, 427

Schiller Garten (near Dresden): 714

Schirn Art Center (Frankfurt): 425

Schleissheim Palace (Munich): 31, 92–93

Schlossberg (Freiburg): 310, 314–315

Schlossbergfest (Freiburg): 300

Schlosskopf (Reutte): 185

Schönefeld Airport (Berlin): 847–848

Schrannenhalle (Munich): 40

Schulterblatt (Hamburg): 881, 890, 904–905

Schusterstrasse (Freiburg): 305

Schwabentor (Freiburg): 305–306

Schwangau: 140, 145; eating, 158–159

Schwarzwäld: See Black Forest

Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Vogtsbauernhof: 327–328

Seasons: 8

Seilbahn Cable Car (Koblenz): 492–493

Semper Gallery (Dresden): 691

Semperoper (Dresden): 687, 710–711

Senhals: 517

Senheim: 517

“Seven Maidens”: 451–452

Severikirche (Erfurt): 614, 620

Shell Grotto (Munich): 59

Shopping: budgeting, 7–8; clothing sizes, 989; hours, 922–923; VAT refunds, 928. See also specific destinations

Shrine of the Magi (Cologne): 550

Siegessäule (Berlin): 747, 806–807

Sightseeing: at a glance, 6–7; best three-week trip, 10–11; budgeting, 6–7; general tips, 929–931; priorities, 8. See also specific sights

Signal and River Pilots Museum: 453

Silent Heroes Memorial Center (Berlin): 797

Sleep code: 932

Sleeping: 931–939; budgeting, 5; online reviews, 938; rates and deals, 933–934; reservations, 9, 936–937. See also specific destinations

Smartphones: 13, 949–954

Soccer: xxii–xxiii, 243, 920

Sommerrodelbahn Steckenberg (Unterammergau): 166

Sony Center (Berlin): 809

Sooneck Castle: 454

Sophienstrasse (Baden-Baden): 286

Sound of Music: 218, 236, 238–239, 240, 242, 245, 252, 253; debunking myths, 206–207; tours, 205–210

Spas: See Baths

Speer, Albert: 583, 585, 586, 587, 755–756, 806–807, 863, 985

Speicherstadt (Hamburg): 880, 895, 896–897

Spielzeugmuseum (Nürnberg): 581–582

Spinnerei (Leipzig): 672

Spitalgasse (Rothenburg): 351–352, 361

Spitalhof (Rothenburg): 354–355

Spitaltor (Rothenburg): 352, 354–355

Spree River: 766; cruises, 746, 748, 766

Spring Festival (Munich): 21, 982

SS Rickmer Rickmers (Hamburg): 881, 894

Staatsoper (Berlin): 763

Stadtgeschichtliches Museum (Leipzig): 655–656

Stadtkirche St. Marien (Wittenberg): 638–641

Stadtmauergarten (Oberwesel): 479

Stadtmuseum Oberwesel (Oberwesel): 476

Stahleck Castle: 454

Stasi Museum (Berlin): 805

Stasi Museum (Leipzig): 662, 664–665

Staufen: 315–322

Staufen Castle: 320

Staufen Cemetery: 320

Staufener Musikwoche: 316

Staufen Town Hall: 318

Steingasse (Salzburg): 209, 238–239, 263

Steingassenturm (Oberwesel): 477

Stein Terrasse (Salzburg): 239

Sterrenberg Castle: 450

Stolpersteine (stumbling stones): 797

Story of Berlin: 818–819

Stoss, Veit: 571–572

Südmeile (Leipzig): See Karli, the

Swabian Gate (Freiburg): 305–306

Swimming: 92, 166, 186–187, 339, 469, 502

T

Tauber Valley: 359–360

Taxes: VAT refunds, 928

Taxis: tipping, 927. See also specific destinations

Tegel Airport (Berlin): 847

Tegelberg Gondola: 157

Tegelberg Luge: 157–158

Telephone numbers, useful: 981

Telephones: 949–957; Austria, 179, 199

Temperatures, average monthly: 989

Tennis, in Cochem: 502

Teufelsberg (Berlin): 772

Theaterplatz (Dresden): 687–688, 710

Theatinerkirche (Munich): 53

Theatrum Mundi (Erfurt): 611

Theft alerts: 922

Thomaskirche (Leipzig): 666–667

Three Kings Church (Dresden): 724

Thuringian Folk Museum (Erfurt): 621

Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista: 388, 389–390, 393

Tiergarten (Berlin): 747, 753, 806

Tiergärtnertorplatz (Nürnberg): 577

Time zones: 922

Tipping: 927, 941

Tirol: 125–195; map, 128–129; transportation, 126–127, 130–131. See also specific destinations

Tirolean folk evening, in Reutte: 186

Tirolean Terrace (Zugspitze): 175–176

Tiroler Lech Nature Park: 188

Titisee: 277, 325

Tollwood (Munich): 21, 983

Topography of Terror (Berlin): 742, 786–788

Toppler Castle: 359

Toscaninihof (Salzburg): 220

Tour guides: 13; tipping, 927. See also specific destinations

Tourist information: 921–922. See also specific destinations

Tours: Rick Steves, 979. See also specific destinations

Toy Museum (Nürnberg): 581–582

Tradesman’s House (Rothenburg): 357

Train travel: 957, 960–967; best three-week trip, 11; budgeting, 5; map, 958–959; schedules, 960; seat reservations, 966–967; tickets, 960–963, 965–966. See also specific destinations

Transportation: 957–977; budgeting, 4–5; map, 958–959. See also specific destinations

Transportation, Museum of (Munich): 31, 81–82

Travel insurance: 12

Travel smarts: 3–4

Travel tips: 922–923

Treasury (Cologne), 552; (Munich), 30, 56–58

Trechtingshausen: 460

Treetop Walkway (near Füssen): 140–141

Treis-Karden Station: 511, 512

Triberg: 328–330

Triberg Waterfall: 329–330

Trier: 519–538; eating, 537; helpful hints, 521; map, 522–523; sights, 524–535; sleeping, 535–537; tourist information, 520; tours, 521; transportation, 520–521, 538

Trier Amphitheater: 533–534

Trier Archaeological Museum: 531–532

Trier Card: 520

Trier Cathedral: 525, 527–529

Trier City Museum: 524

Trier Town Hall: 526

Trinkhalle (Baden-Baden): 282–283

Trip costs: 4–8

Turkish Chamber (Dresden): 704

Turkish Market (Berlin): 795

TV Tower (Berlin): 767–768, 773, 837

U

Unity Day: 736, 983

Universitätsplatz (Salzburg): 220–221

University of Erfurt: 612

University of Leipzig: 651, 658, 659, 660, 675

Unterammergau: 166

Unter den Linden (Berlin): 742, 747, 759–761

V

VAT refunds: 928

Victory Column (Berlin): 747, 806–807

Viehmarkt Baths Museum (Trier): 535

Viktualienmarkt (Munich): 30, 39–40, 109–110, 112

Villa Stuck (Munich): 79

Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards

Viscardigasse (Munich): 53

Visitor information: 921–922. See also specific destinations

Vogesenkapelle: 324

Vogtsbauernhof Black Forest Open-Air Museum: 327–328

Völkerschlachtdenkmal (Leipzig): 670–672

Volkswagen (VW) Transparent Factory (Dresden): 712

Vonnegut, Kurt: 679–680, 686

Von Trapp family: See Sound of Music

W

Waldkirch: 326

Walking tours: See specific destinations

Wallraf-Richartz Museum (Cologne): 554

Warnemünde: 848

Wartburg Castle: 602–603, 627–630

Watchman’s Tower (Dresden): 693, 704–705

Weather: 8, 989

Weikersheim: 374–375

Weindorf (Rothenburg): 338, 982

Weinfest (Freiburg): 300

Weinstrasse (Munich): 93–94

Weissgerbergasse (Nürnberg): 579

Wenigemarkt (Erfurt): 610

West End (Frankfurt): 419

Western Berlin: 732, 817–822; eating, 844–845; self-guided walk, 748–759; sleeping, 832–834

Wiesbaden: 561

Wieskirche: 146, 159–161, 380

Wilhelmstrasse (Berlin): 759, 789

Willy Brandt Berlin-Brandenburg International Airport: 847

Wine and vineyards: 949; Bacharach, 473–474; Beilstein, 515; Cochem, 497, 498, 501–502; Frankfurt, 434–435; Mosel Valley, 497, 498, 501–502; Oberwesel, 477; Rothenburg, 338, 369–370, 982; Staufen, 315, 316–317

“Wine Fountain” (Staufen): 316–317

Wittenberg: 631–649; eating, 648–649; helpful hints, 635–636; map, 632–633; sights, 636–647; sleeping, 647–648; tourist information, 634; transportation, 635, 649

Wittenberg House of History: 646

Wittenberg Town Hall: 636

Wohnhaus (Salzburg): 209, 237–238

Women’s Protest Memorial (Berlin): 767

Woodcarving: 163–164

World War I: xix, 165, 463, 915–916

World War II: xix–xx, 43, 540, 549, 916; Berchtesgaden, 265–274; books about, 984–986; Dresden, 679–680, 691, 694; Hamburg, 883–884; Remagen Bridge, 560–561; timeline, 918–919. See also Concentration camps; Hitler, Adolf; Nazis

Wurst (sausage): about, 596, 836, 943–945

Würzburg: 383–406; arrival in, 385; eating, 403–406; helpful hints, 385–387; history of, 384; maps, 386–387, 396; planning tips, 383–384; self-guided walk, 394–400; sights, 388–400; sleeping, 401–403; tourist information, 384–385; transportation, 385, 387–388, 406

Würzburg City Hall: 398

Z

Zehnthauskeller (Beilstein): 515, 518

Zeil (Frankfurt): 420–421

Zell: 501–502, 517

Zentralplatz (Koblenz): 492

Zeppelin Field (Nürnberg): 587

Zoologischer Garten Berlin: 819–820

Zugspitze: 173–176

Zwinger (Dresden): 688–691, 697–701