Middle Chile
Valparaíso & the Central Coast
Valparaíso
Viña Del Mar
Casablanca Valley Wineries
Quintay
Isla Negra
Parque Nacional la Campana
Aconcagua Valley
Los Andes
Portillo
Southern Heartland
Colchagua Valley
Matanzas
Pichilemu
Curicó
Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas
Maule Valley
Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay
Chillán
Termas de Chillán & Valle Las Trancas
Coastal Towns
Concepción
Salto Del Laja
Los Angeles
Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja
Angol
Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta
Archipiélago Juan Fernández
San Juan Bautista
Parque Nacional Archipielago Juan Fernandez
Chilean Wine Gallery
Middle Chile
Why Go?
If you love wine, fine dining, never-ending springs, street art, skiing, hiking, mountain biking, surfing or just lazying for days on wild coasts, there’s a spot in Middle Chile that was created just for you. This is Chile’s most important wine-producing region, and the wineries and cozy bed and breakfasts of the sun-kissed Colchagua, Maule and Casablanca Valleys will tickle your palate and enliven your senses. For board riders, there are killer breaks up and down the coast, with surf culture exploding in towns like Pichilemu, Matanzas and Buchupureo. Hikers and skiers will love the lost lagoons and steep pistes found eastward in the Andes, while cultural explorers won’t want to miss the murals and jumbled alleyways of Valparaíso and the hard-rocking musical exploits of Concepción.
When to Go
- Mar–Apr Wine lovers migrate to the vineyards for the grape harvest and the festivals surrounding it.
- Jun–Aug Frequent snowfall brings skiers and snowboarders to the slopes in full force.
- Oct–Dec Find calm beaches, cheaper hotels and a verdant central valley before the summer rush.
Best Places to Stay
Middle Chile Highlights
1 Valparaíso Get lost in the steep maze of mural-lined alleyways that spiderweb across the city’s 42 hills.
2 Colchagua Valley wineries Swirl, sniff and sip complex and full-bodied reds.
3 Archipiélago Juan Fernández Follow in the footsteps of the real-life castaway who inspired the novel Robinson Crusoe.
4 Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay Capture a 360-degree view from atop El Enladrillado.
5 Buchupureo Catch a steep and quicksilver-fast wave at the famous surf breaks of this sleepy beach town.
6 Viña del Mar Party like it’s 1999 at one of the city’s light-up-the-night discos.
7 Nevados de Chillán Ski through the trees on the longest ski slope in South America.
8 Maule Valley Tickle your senses with wine, spa treatments and fine dining.
VALPARAÍSO & THE CENTRAL COAST
Valparaíso
%32 / POP 300,000
Syncopated, dilapidated, colorful and poetic, Valparaíso is a wonderful mess. Pablo Neruda, who drew much inspiration from this hard-working port town, said it best: ‘Valparaíso, how absurd you are…you haven’t combed your hair, you’ve never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you.’
But Neruda wasn’t the only artist to fall for Valparaíso’s unexpected charms. Poets, painters and would-be philosophers have long been drawn to Chile’s most unusual city. Along with the ever-shifting port population of sailors, dockworkers and prostitutes, they’ve endowed gritty and gloriously spontaneous Valparaíso with an edgy air of ‘anything goes.’ Add to this the spectacular faded beauty of its chaotic cerros (hills), some of the best street art in Latin America, a maze of steep, sinuous streets, alleys and escaleras (stairways) piled high with crumbling mansions, and it’s clear why some visitors spend more time here than in Santiago.
History
The sea has always defined Valparaíso and the region surrounding it. Fishing sustained the area’s first inhabitants, the Chango, and no sooner had the Spanish conquistadores arrived than Valparaíso became a stop-off point for boats taking gold and other Latin American products to Spain. More seafaring looters soon followed: English and Dutch pirates, including Sir Francis Drake, who repeatedly sacked Valparaíso for gold.
The port city grew slowly at first, but boomed with the huge demand for Chilean wheat prompted by the California gold rush. The first major port of call for ships coming round Cape Horn, Valparaíso became a commercial center for the entire Pacific coast and the hub of Chile’s nascent banking industry.
After Valparaíso’s initial glory days, the port saw hard times in the 20th century. The 1906 earthquake destroyed most of the city’s buildings, then the opening of the Panama Canal had an equally cataclysmic effect on the port’s economy. Only the Chilean navy remained a constant presence.
Today Valparaíso is back on the nautical charts as a cruise-ship stop-off, and Chile’s growing fruit exports have also boosted the port. More significantly, the city has been Chile’s legislative capital since 1990. Unesco sealed the deal by giving it World Heritage status in 2003, prompting tourism to soar.
1Sights
1El Plan & El Puerto
Mercado CardonalMARKET
(
h6am-5pm)
As colorful as Valparaíso’s trademark houses – and built almost as high – are the fruit and vegetable displays in the Mercado Cardonal, bordered by Yungay, Brasil, Uruguay and Rawson.
Plaza SotomayorPLAZA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; El Plan)
Plaza Sotomayor is dominated by the palatial blue-colored naval command building Edificio Armada de Chile MAP GOOGLE MAP. In the middle of the square lies the Monumento a los Héroes de Iquique MAP GOOGLE MAP, a subterranean mausoleum paying tribute to Chile’s naval martyrs.
The Aduana Nacional (Customs House) and Estación Puerto, the terminal for commuter trains, are also nearby. The plaza has a helpful tourist kiosk and a tacky handicrafts market, the Feria de Artesanía. Muelle Prat, the pier at the foot of Plaza Sotomayor, is a lively place on weekends, and also the prime point for crane- and container-spotting.
Museo de Historia NaturalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Natural History Museum; www.mhnv.cl; Condell 1546, El Plan; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) 
F
Explore the natural history of central Chile in nine rooms that focus on biology and ecosystems. Signage is in Spanish only.
Reloj TurriMONUMENT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Esmeralda & Gómez Carreño)
Where Prat and Cochrane converge to become Esmeralda, the Edificio Turri narrows to the width of its namesake clock tower, the Reloj Turri. This is one of the most iconic buildings in old Valparaiso, dating back to the 1920s.
Barrio El PuertoAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.barriopuertovalparaiso.cl)
In the west of El Plan, Barrio El Puerto (the port neighborhood) has the twin honors of being the oldest part of Valparaíso and the most run-down. Crumbling stone facades hint of times gone by.
Mercado PuertoHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Cochrane & San Martín, Puerto)
Long defunct (and home to a pack of street cats), El Puerto’s beautifully restored food market should be open again by the time you read this.
Plaza MatrizPLAZA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; El Puerto)
The historic heart of the city is Plaza Matriz, which is watched over by Iglesia La Matriz. Begun in 1837, it’s the fourth church to occupy this site since the construction of the original chapel in 1559.
Congreso NacionalLANDMARK
(www.congreso.cl; cnr Av Pedro Montt & Rawson; hlibrary only open 9:30am-1pm & 2:30-5:30pm Mon & Fri)
One of Valpo’s only modern landmarks is the controversial horseshoe-shaped Congreso Nacional, located in the eastern section of El Plan. Its roots lie in Pinochet’s presidency both literally and legislatively: it was built on one of his boyhood homes and mandated by his 1980 constitution (which moved the legislature away from Santiago).
Iglesia La MatrizCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.corporacionlamatriz.cl; Santo Domingo 71, Puerto)
Classically inspired church, allegedly sacked by Sir Francis Drake in the 16th century. The fourth construction is the one you see today.
1Cerros Concepción & Alegre
Museo de Bellas ArtesMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Palacio Baburizza, Fine Arts Museum; %32-225-2332; http://museobaburizza.cl; Paseo Yugoslavo 176; admission CH$4000; h10:30am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The rambling art nouveau building at the western end of Cerro Alegre is called Palacio Baburizza; it houses the Museo de Bellas Artes, which has a decent permanent collection plus plenty of details on the original palace owners. The funicular Ascensor El Peral (Plaza de Justicia & Paseo Yugoslavo; CH$100; h7am-11pm) runs here from just off Plaza Sotomayor.
Museo LukasMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-1344; www.lukas.cl; Paseo Gervasoni 448, Cerro Concepción; adult/child & senior CH$1000/500; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Local cartoonist Lukas had a sharp eye for the idiosyncrasies of Valparaíso. You need to speak Spanish to understand his sardonic political strips displayed here, but the ink drawings of iconic Valpo buildings certainly speak for themselves.
Ascensor ConcepciónFUNICULAR
(Prat (El Plan) & Paseo Gervasoni (Cerro Concepción); CH$300; h7am-10pm)
The city’s oldest elevator, Ascensor Concepción takes you to Paseo Gervasoni, at the lower end of Cerro Concepción. Built in 1883, it originally ran on steam power. At the time of research it was closed for renovations.
1Cerro Carcel
oParque Cultural de ValparaísoARTS CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; PCdV; %32-235-9400; http://parquecultural.cl; Cárcel 471; h10am-7pm; 
p) F
This cultural center built from the bones of a prison has a little bit of everything the thinking traveler could ask for. There are excellent murals in the old exercise yards (with practically no chance of getting shanked), rotating arts exhibits, live theater and dance, and occasional classes, courses, round tables and other intellectually stimulating events.
Reach it by walking up Subida Cumming.
1Cerro Panteón
Cementerios 1 & 2CEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dinamarca s/n; h8:30am-5pm)
The city’s most illustrious, influential and infamous residents rest in peace in Cementerios 1 and 2, where the tombs look like ornate mini alaces.
Cementerio de DisidentesCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dissident Cemetery; Dinamarca s/n; h9am-1pm & 3-5pm)
Adjoining the main cemetery, the Cementerio de Disidentes is the spot where English and European immigrants were buried. Despite the name, these departed souls weren’t rabble-rousers; they were simply Protestants, and therefore not accepted at the traditional cemeteries.
1Cerro Bellavista
oLa SebastianaHISTORIC BUILDING
(%32-225-6606; www.fundacionneruda.org; Ferrari 692; adult/child & senior CH$7000/2500; h10:30am-6:50pm Tue-Sun Jan & Feb, 10:10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec)
Bellavista’s most famous resident writer was Pablo Neruda, who made a point of watching Valparaíso’s annual New Year’s fireworks from his house at the top of the hill, La Sebastiana. Because entry operates on a first-come, first-served basis, it’s recommended that you get here in the morning.
Getting here involves an uphill hike, and the climbing continues inside the house – but you’re rewarded on each floor with ever-more heart-stopping views over the harbor. You can wander around La Sebastiana at will, lingering over the chaotic collection of ships’ figureheads, glass, 1950s furniture and artworks by his famous friends.
Alongside the house, the Fundación Neruda has built the Centro Cultural La Sebastiana, containing a small exhibition space and souvenir shop.
To get here, walk 800m uphill along Héctor Calvo from Ascensor Espíritu Santo. Alternatively, take green bus O on Serrano near Plaza Sotomayor in El Plan, or from the plaza at the top of Templeman on Cerro Alegre and get off at the 6900 block of Av Alemania.
Museo a Cielo AbiertoAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Open-Air Museum; cnr Rudolph & Ramos; h24hr)
Twenty classic, colorful murals are dotted through this cerro’s lower streets, forming the Museo a Cielo Abierto, an open-air museum with works from famed Chilean artists such as Mario Toral and Roberto Matta. Sadly, many are now in very poor shape. The Ascensor Espíritu Santo takes you from behind Plaza Victoria to the heart of this art.
1Cerro Artilleria
Museo Marítimo NacionalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; National Maritime Museum; %32-253-7018; www.mmn.cl; Paseo 21 de Mayo 45; adult/child CH$1000/300; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Cannons still stand ready outside this naval museum. Much space is devoted to Chile’s victory in the 19th-century War of the Pacific. Other exhibits include historical paintings, uniforms, ships’ furniture, swords, navigating instruments and medals, all neatly displayed in exhibition rooms along one side of a large courtyard. Rattling Ascensor Artillería brings you here from Plaza Aduana.
CCourses
oChilean CuisineCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6621-4626; www.chileancuisine.cl; Pasaje Galvez 25, Cerro Concepcion; course per person from CH$40,000; hdaily courses)
An energetic chef takes you to shop for ingredients at the local market, then teaches you to make pisco sours, taste local wines, and cook – then eat – a menu of Chilean classics.
Chilean Cooking Class and Anti-ToursCOOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8143-9656; gonzalolarachef@yahoo.es; Av Almirante Montt 448, Cerro Alegre)
Gonzalo Lara, the chef of Café Vinilo, runs a culinary course that’s won rave reviews from travelers; email him directly for prices and availability.
Natalis Language CenterLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-225-4849; www.natalislang.com; Plaza Justicia 45, 6th fl, Oficina 602, El Plan; 3-day crash course CH$180,000)
Language school with a good reputation for quick results.
TTours
oValpo Street Art ToursCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-4021-5628; www.valpostreetart.com; Pasaje Galvez 25, oficina 2; h10:30am & 3:30pm Mon-Sat)
Two-hour pay-what-you-wish ‘GraFREEti Tours’ leave from Plaza Anibal Pinto daily (except Sundays) at 10:30am and 3:30pm. Knowledgeable English-speaking guides walk you to some of the city’s best murals and explain why Valpo became a street-rt mecca. You can also sign up for workshops (US$30) where you meet a resident graffiti artist and learn how to spray your own piece.
oTours 4 TipsWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.tours4tips.com; Plaza Sotomayor, El Plan; h10am & 3pm)
Just show up at Plaza Sotomayor, look for the guides with the red-and-white shirts in the middle of the plaza, and head off for a friendly introduction to the city that focuses on street art, cultural history and politics. You only tip if you like the tour. We think CH$5000 to CH$10,000 is a good tip if you enjoy yourself.
Blue ValpoCRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://bluevalpo.com; Muelle Prat; CH$10,000; h2 Sat per month)
BYO drink of choice and float to the beat of the DJs and live bands on this three-hour sunset cruise through the bay. Boats depart from Muelle Prat. Check the website for upcoming trips.
Harbor Boat ToursBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Muelle Prat; 30min tour CH$3000; h9:30am-6:30pm)
Pass alongside giant cruise vessels or naval battleships, or spot sea lions frolicking in the harbor. Several companies operate boats; ask around for the best price and group up for savings.
zFestivals & Events
Puerto de IdeasCULTURAL
(www.puertodeideas.cl; events CH$2000; hNov)
Held every November, this intellectual conference is Chile’s equivalent to TED. If you speak Spanish, it can be fascinating.
Año NuevoNEW YEAR
(hDec 31)
Fantastic fireworks displays over the harbor draw hundreds of thousands of spectators to the city each December 31. Book accommodations well in advance.
4Sleeping
oLa Joya HostelHOSTEL$
(%cell 9-3187-8552; www.lajoyahostel.com; Quillota 80; dm CH$10,500, d from CH$39,000; p
i
W)
La Joya is almost too posh to be called a hostel, with impeccably clean quarters, seriously comfy beds and the aesthetic of a Brooklyn loft. Attached is a hip bar and burger joint that’s worth the visit even if you aren’t staying. Friendly staff are eager to help with city info, and they occasionally organize barbecues on the rooftop deck.
Its location near the bus station makes it convenient for those arriving late or departing early, yet inconvenient for quick trips to the most popular cerros.
El MiradorB&B$
(%32-234-5937; www.elmiradordevalparaiso.cl; Levarte 251, Cerro Playa Ancha; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$35/60/64, 2-person apt US$70; piW)
Budget-minded couples and solo travelers enjoy this homey B&B. Though slightly out of the way, the beautifully tended property – a restored house with comfortable doubles, apartments with kitchenettes, accommodating hosts and a spacious terrace – is pretty good value. To get here, from the Museo Marítimo Nacional, walk uphill along Playa Ancha and turn left on Levarte.
Hostal JacarandaHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-327-7567; www.hostaljacaranda.blogspot.com; Urriola 636, Cerro Alegre; dm/d from CH$8000/25,000; W)
Small but very welcoming (and perfectly located in a lively section of Cerro Alegre), this cheerful, family-style hostel features a terrace that’s romantically illuminated at night. The owners have a wealth of knowledge; if you ask nicely, they might even show you how to make Chilean specialties including pisco sours and empanadas.
Hostal Cerro AlegreB&B$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-327-0374; www.hostalcerroalegre.cl; Urriola 562, Cerro Alegre; dm CH$14,000, r with/without bath CH$59,000/44,000; W)
Funky antiques, original oil paintings by the former owner, and an eclectic mix of colors, styles and design sensibilities make this a good bet for the Boho crowd. There’s a shared kitchen and smallish living area, and the dorm sleeps just four. You can also rent bikes here (day/half-day CH$11,000/6000).
Yellow HouseB&B$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-233-9435; www.theyellowhouse.cl; Capitán Muñoz Gamero 91, Cerro Artillería; r CH$33,000-55,000, without bathroom CH$25,000-32,000, all incl breakfast; iW)
Oh-my-God views over the old port set this quiet B&B apart, as does the friendly care lavished on guests by the Chilean owner. Cozy, pastel-painted rooms come with thick white comforters. The Oceano has by far the best views. The only drawback: you’re quite far removed from the action, dining and nightlife of the more popular cerros.
Use caution arriving late at night as the area is occasionally used by pickpockets.
La NonaB&B$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6618-6186; www.bblanona.com; Galos 660-662, Cerro Alegre; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$36,000/40,000/60,000; W)
The English-speaking owners of this B&B are mad about Valpo, and love sharing insider tips with their guests. Rooms are simple but highly passable. Stained glass and skylights add an open air, and the central location on Cerro Alegre is a serious selling point. Ask for a room with a view.
La Nona also provides hard-to-find laundry service (CH$10,000 for up to 5kg) for both guests and nonguests.
Casa AventuraHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-275-5963; www.casaventura.cl; Pasaje Gálvez 11, Cerro Concepción; dm/s/d without bathroom CH$11,500/20,000/29,000; W)
One of Valpo’s oldest hostels, this ramshackle old house has airy, pastel-painted dorms, while doubles feature sky-high ceilings and original wooden floors. There’s a shared kitchen, but it’s missing a cool terrace or large common areas.
oWineBox ValparaisoDESIGN HOTEL$$
(%cell 9-9424-5331; Baquedano 763, Cerro Mariposas; r CH$65,000-180,000; pW
#) 
S
Built from 25 decommissioned shipping containers and home to Valparaiso’s first urban winery, WineBox is primed to change the face of tourism in the city. If all goes according to plan, it will open a wine bar and shop in 2018 with 320 labels and 30 wines offered by the glass (including those made in the basement).
All rooms are in colorful shipping containers with comfy beds and porthole windows looking out over the sea. There are also two terraces lined with furniture made from wine barrels, tanks and even bathtubs. Nearly everything you see here was built using recycled materials.
Vía Vía HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-319-2134; www.viaviacafe.cl; Almirante Montt 217, Cerro Alegre; r US$50-70; W) S
Run by a friendly Ecuadorian-Belgian couple, this round-walled art deco boutique is a favorite for the arts-poetry-and-chunky-glasses set. With just five rooms, it’s a cozy affair. The rooms are sparse but quite airy, and the baths have solar showers and elegant stone accents. There is a fun cafe on the main floor, making this a good spot for night owls.
Hotel UltramarBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-221-0000; www.hotelultramar.com; Pérez 173, Cerro Cárcel; d incl breakfast CH$68,000; W)
Unparalleled views over the bay justify the trek to sleek Ultramar, high on Cerro Cárcel. Behind the brown-brick front it’s very mod, with soaring red-and-white walls, black banisters and checkered floor tiles.
Make sure you understand which room you’re booking ahead of time – there’s a big difference between a spacious double with a view and a smaller room that doesn’t face the ocean.
oZerohotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-211-3113; www.zerohotel.com; Lautaro Rosas 343, Cerro Alegre; d incl breakfast CH$186,000-263,000; W)
This boutique hotel has one of the best patios around, and taking in the Valparaíso sunshine here is a decadent treat. There are just nine rooms, all with high ceilings, minimalist design and plenty of creature comforts – like an honor bar that gives you access to some of Chile’s best wines.
The contempo digs match surprisingly well with the lofty architecture that dates back to 1880.
oFauna HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-327-0719; http://faunahotel.cl; Pasaje Dimalow 166, Cerro Alegre; r from CH$90,000; W)
This high-design hotel is imbued with natural materials from the exposed-brick walls to the recycled wood paneling. Each room has unique art, quirky murals or antique furnishings, giving the place a very Valparaíso feel. Head to the rooftop restaurant to watch the sun set over the harbor.
Casa HiguerasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-249-7900; www.casahigueras.cl; Higuera 133, Cerro Alegre; r CH$197,000-360,000; W
s)
Rich Santiaguinos always preferred weekending in Viña to Valpo, but they’ve been won over by this hotel’s slick rooms with dark-wood furniture and huge beds, mosaic-tiled bathrooms with big bowl sinks and the quiet living room filled with Asian sculptures and beige sofas. It has bay views, plus a lovely swimming pool, Jacuzzi and terrace, ideal for cocktails at sunset.
Mm 450BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-9919; www.mm450.cl; Lautaro Rosas 450, Cerro Alegre; r incl breakfast CH$77,000-120,000; W)
This boutique hotel has a streamlined modern look, a gorgeous interior patio and super-comfy rooms with new mattresses and gleaming white comforters. It’s attached to a hip restaurant and lounge, so there’s always somebody around.
5Eating
oChinchinero Sabor PropioCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9821-6612; Urriola 377, Cerro Alegre; set breakfast/lunch CH$3000/6000; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; W
v)
Extremely flavorful and very filling set breakfasts or lunches make this funky 10-table cafe the best value in town. There are also delicious cakes, coffees and empanadas.
Delicias ExpressCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-223-7438; Urriola 358, Cerro Alegre; empanadas CH$1000-2400; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun)
Boasting 81 varieties of empanadas, friendly service and a crispy crust you’ll love, this is one of the best empanada joints on the coast.
Norma’sCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-3112; Av Almirante Montt 391, Cerro Alegre; set lunch $6900-9900; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue)
Don’t let the name (or the nondescript entryway) throw you off: just climb the tall stairway into this cheerful, casually elegant restaurant for a surprisingly well-prepared set lunch that’s friendlier on your wallet than most others in the area. The restored house still has the grand dimensions, polished wood and charming antique window frames of the original structure.
Café del PoetaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-8897; www.facebook.com/cafedelpoeta; Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1181, El Plan; mains CH$3500-7800; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; W)
This sweet cafe and eatery brings some sophistication to a busy central plaza in El Plan. On the menu are savory crepes, pasta and seafood; there’s also sidewalk seating, a relaxing afternoon tea, wines by the glass and a collection of books about Valparaíso that guests are invited to linger over.
Mercado CardonalMARKET$
(http://elcardonal.cl; Mercado Cardonal, 2nd fl, El Plan; mains CH$3500-5000; h6am-6:30pm)
There’s a good selection of seafood stands at Valparaíso’s main food market.
Casino Social J CruzCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-221-1225; www.jcruz.cl; Condell 1466, El Plan; mains CH$6500; hnoon-1:30am)
Graffiti covers the walls at this tiny cafe, tucked away down a narrow passageway in El Plan. Forget about menus, there’s only one essential dish to try: it’s said that chorrillana (a mountain of French fries under a blanket of fried pork, onions and egg) was invented here. Folk singers may serenade you into the wee hours.
oEl PeralCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-336-1353; El Peral 182, Cerro Alegre; mains CH$8000; hnoon-4:30pm, to midnight Fri & Sat Dec-Apr)
The menu at this beloved cafe above Ascensor El Paral is written on chalkboards each morning and typically includes the freshest ingredients from the sea. Pair your food with invigorating fruit juices, local craft beers or pisco sours in intriguing flavors. Reserve ahead for a table on the leafy terrace, which offers a shaded view over the port below.
oEl InternadoCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-335-4153; www.elinternado.cl; Pasaje Dimalow 167, Cerro Alegre; CH$4500-8000; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; W)
Soaring Valpo views, well-priced Chilean sandwiches and silky-smooth pisco sours make this funky new spot on Pasaje Dimalow a favorite among locals. Head to the basement level in the evenings for art shows, poetry readings, film screenings, live music and more.
FaunaCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-212-1408; www.faunahotel.cl; Pasaje Dimalow 166, Cerro Alegre; mains CH$6500-13,000; h12:30-10:30pm)
One of the best decks in town is found at this hip lounge and resto-bar (with a sophisticated attached hotel). It’s a top spot for locals to suck down craft beers, cocktails and wine, and boasts an alluring seafood-heavy menu. Reserve a table in advance.
Viá Viá RestaurantCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-319-2134; www.viaviacafe.cl; Av Almirante Montt 217, Cerro Alegre; mains CH$5500-10,500; h1-11pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun, closed Mon-Wed May-Oct; Wv) S
Set below a precipitous stairway and looming three-story mural, this garden cafe brims with creativity and serendipitous energy. There’s occasional live music in summer, simple dining options, and a good mix of Belgian beers and Chilean wines on tap. It’s a must-stop on any mural or pub crawl.
Café ViniloCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-223-0665; www.cafevinilo.cl; Av Almirante Montt 448, Cerro Alegre; mains CH$5000-13,000; h9am-1:30am Sun-Thu, to 3:30am Fri & Sat; W)
The retro-chic atmosphere matches (and perfectly mismatches) the colors and rhythms of the city. Dinner plates feature fresh albacore and other local catches with inventive presentations and delicious flavor combinations. As the last plates are licked, the record player gets turned up and things slip into bar mode.
Café TurriSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-236-5307; www.turri.cl; Templeman 147; mains CH$5000-13,000; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; W)
Locals call it an overpriced tourist trap, but elegant Café Turri does boast unforgettable views over the harbor and ocean. You can’t go wrong by grabbing a seat on the terrace and ordering a pisco sour and some baked clams or octopus carpaccio.
Apice Cocina De MarSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-5708-9737; www.restaurantapice.cl; Av Almirante Montt 462; mains CH$12,000-13,000; hby reservation only 7:30-9:30pm Thu-Tue)
Just 20 people per night have the privilege of dining in this exclusive low-lit seafood den on Cerro Alegre. The fish is caught the same day you eat it, and the wine list only includes small producers from neighboring valleys. Reserve ahead.
Pasta e VinoITALIAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-249-6187; www.pastaevinoristorante.cl; Papudo 427; mains CH$12,000-18,000; h1-3:30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
If you want to compete with local foodies, it’s worth reserving ahead. You’ll be dining on inventive seasonal pastas in a sleek, intimate atmosphere with only a dozen tables.
AbtaoSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-3442; www.restauranteabtao.cl; Abtao 550, Cerro Concepción; mains CH$10,000-17,000; h1-3:30pm & 7:30-11pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun)
If it’s warm out, sit in the glassed-in patio; if not, head toward the art deco-inspired dining room for warmth, intimacy and elegance. The food is a tad overpriced but inventive, matching fruit with fish, sweet with tart and featuring spiced flavors from across the globe.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oMáscaraCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.mascara.cl; Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1178, El Plan; cover CH$2000-3500; h10pm-late Mon-Sat)
Music-savvy clubbers in their 20s and 30s love this gay-friendly club: the beer’s cheap, there’s plenty of room to move and hardly any teenyboppers. There are typically drink specials and cheaper entry fees before 1am.
Bar del TioBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-259-9352; www.facebook.com/bardeltio; Av Almirante Montt 67; h6pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri, 8pm-3am Sat)
Jazz music bounces off exposed-brick walls in this classy cocktail bar with dangerously good libations. Soak up the liquor with tasty tapas.
Dinamarca 399CAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9705-4227; http://dinamarca399.cl; Dinamarca 399, Cerro Panteón; h9am-6pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun; W)
Grab an espresso coffee and a home-baked sweet to enjoy a lazy breakfast on the wraparound terrace of this architectural stunner by the cemeteries. The views are spectacular and the prices affordable. There’s also a gallery, a bakery and a coworking space here. The cafe turns into a tapas bar on weekend evenings.
Casa Cervecera AltamiraCRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-319-3619; www.cerveceraaltamira.cl; Elías 126; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 1pm-1am Sat)
This microbrewery at the bottom of Ascensor Reina Victoria (CH$100; h7am-11pm) offers flights of its pale ale, amber, stout and knock-you-out strong ale. It also serves pizzas, burgers and other comfort foods. Check the website for live music, including frequent jazz nights.
PaganoGAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Errazuriz 1852, El Plan; cover varies; h11:30pm-3:30am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat, also to 3:30am Sun Jan-Mar)
Die-hard clubbers both gay and straight can dance all week on Pagano’s packed, sweaty floor. Plan to arrive well after midnight or you’ll be dancing alone.
PajaritoBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-225-8910; www.pajaritobar.blogspot.com; Donoso 1433, El Plan; h11am-1:30am Mon-Thu, 11 to 2:30am Fri, 7pm-2:30am Sat)
Artsy Porteños (residents of Valparaíso) in their 20s and 30s cram the Formica tables at this laid-back, old-school bar to talk poetry and politics over beer and piscola (pisco mixed with Coke or other soft drinks).
Bar La PlayaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9961-2207; Serrano 567, El Puerto; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to late Thu-Sat)
Valparaíso’s longest-running bar shows no signs of slowing down. On weekend nights, cheap pitchers of beer, powerful pisco and a friendly but rowdy atmosphere draw crowds of local students and young bohemian types to the wood-paneled bar upstairs and the cellar-level disco. There’s also classic porteño food for half the price of what you’ll pay in the hills.
La Piedra FelizBAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lapiedrafeliz.cl; Av Errázuriz 1054, El Plan; admission from CH$3000; h9pm-5am Thu-Sat)
Jazz, blues, tango, son, salsa, rock, drinking, dining, cinema: is there anything this massive house along the waterfront doesn’t do? Note: the crowd skews older here.
Hotel BrightonBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-3513; www.brighton.cl; Paseo Atkinson 151, Cerro Concepción; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
Teetering over the edge of Cerro Concepción, this funked-out house has a terrific terrace that overlooks the port and city. Come around sunset for cocktails and stay for decent (though unmemorable) food and live music on weekends.
7Shopping
Bahía UtópicaART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-273-4296; www.bahiautopica.cl; Av Almirante Montt 372, Cerro Alegre; h11am-7:30pm Wed-Mon)
Affordable art, funky postcards, coffee-table books and more make this a great stop for authentic souvenirs.
Espacio RojoARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-324-0437; www.galeriaespaciorojo.com; Pasaje Miramar 175, Cerro Alegre; h11am-6pm)
Stop by this eclectic gallery with English-speaking staff for local art, jewelry, ceramics and souvenirs.
Art in Silver WorkshopJEWELRY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-222-2963; www.silverworkshop.cl; Lautaro Rosas 449A, Cerro Alegre; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm)
Silver and lapis lazuli come together in unusual designs at this small jewelry store, where you can sometimes see their creator, silversmith Victor Hugo, at work.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Petty street crime and muggings are often reported in the old port area of Valparaíso, so keep a close watch on your belongings, especially cameras and other electronics. The rest of Valparaíso is fairly safe, but stick to main streets at night and avoid sketchy stairways and alleyways.
MEDIA
Ciudad de Valparaíso (www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl) Helpful, comprehensive listings of services in the city.
El Mercurio de Valparaíso (www.mercuriovalpo.cl) The city’s main newspaper.
Qué hacer en Valpo (www.quehacerenvalpo.cl) The latest on local events and happenings.
TOURIST INFORMATION
There are several helpful tourist information stands around town, including one kiosk (www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl; cnr Wagner & Cumming, El Plan; h10am-6pm) by Plaza Aníbal Pinto and another kiosk (www.ciudaddevalparaiso.cl; Muelle Prat, El Plan; h10am-6pm) by Muelle Prat.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
All major intercity services arrive and depart from the Terminal Rodoviario (Av Pedro Montt 2800, El Plan), about 20 blocks east of the town center. There is a small tourist information kiosk and a bag check (from CH$500 per bag).
Services to Santiago leave every 15 to 20 minutes with Turbus (%32-213-3104; www.turbus.cl) and Condor Bus (%32-213-3107; www.condorbus.cl), which both also go south to Puerto Montt (two each daily), Osorno (two each daily) and Temuco (three each daily). In addition, Turbus also goes to Pucón (two daily), Concepción (five daily) and Chillán (seven daily).
Turbus also operates to the northern cities of Iquique (twice daily), Calama (twice daily) and Antofagasta (four daily). Romani (%32-222-0662; www.busesromani.cl) goes twice daily to La Serena, as does Condor Bus.
You can reach Mendoza in Argentina with Cata Internacional (%800-835-917; www.catainternacional.com), El Rápido (%810-333-6285; www.elrapidoint.com.ar), Ahumada (%32-254-5561; www.busesahumada.cl) and Andesmar (www.andesmar.com). Some buses continue to Buenos Aires. Buses JM (%34-344-4373; www.busesjm.cl) offers hourly services to Los Andes, as does Pullman Bus Costa Central (%600-200-4700; www.pullmancosta.cl). Buses Casablanca (www.facebook.com/busescasablanca) runs direct buses to Casablanca every 30 minutes.
Pullman Bus Lago Peñuela (%32-222-4025) leaves for Isla Negra every hour. From Av Argentina, just outside the terminal, Transportes Quintay (%32-236-2669; Av Argentina) runs taxi colectivos (shared taxis) every 20 minutes to Quintay.
The city transport network, Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso (TMV; %32-259-4689; www.tmv.cl; 1 way within El Plan CH$250, El Plan to Cerro CH$400), has services to the beach towns north of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. For Reñaca, take the orange 607, 602 or 605. The 602 and 605 continue to Concón.
Note that fares may increase considerably during school holidays or long weekends, and you’ll pay more for the cama class (with fully reclining seats) on long-haul rides.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 34,000 | 16 |
| Calama | 34,700 | 19 |
| Casablanca | 1000 | 1 |
| Chillán | 8200 | 8 |
| Concepción | 9000 | 9 |
| Iquique | 33,000 | 25 |
| Isla Negra | 3200 | 1½ |
| La Serena | 7000 | 7 |
| Los Andes | 5000 | 3 |
| Mendoza | 22,000 | 8 |
| Osorno | 12,000 | 14 |
| Pucón | 10,000 | 12 |
| Puerto Montt | 12,000 | 15 |
| Santiago | 3000 | 1½ |
| Temuco | 10,000 | 10 |
CAR
The closest car-rental agencies to Valparaíso are in Viña del Mar, but most visitors find the steep, narrow streets and lack of parking a major deterrent to car travel within the city. A rental is only recommended for trips out of town.
8Getting Around
Walking is the best way to get about central Valparaíso and explore its cerros – you can cheat on the way up by taking an ascensor or a taxi colectivo (CH$500). Colectivos to Cerros Concepción and Alegre line up at the bottom of Almirante Montt, while those to Cerros La Cárcel and Bellavista leave from Av Ecuador.
Countless local buses operated by TMV run along Condell and Av Pedro Montt, Av Brasil and Yungay, connecting one end of El Plan with the other. A few climb different cerros and continue to Viña or along the northern coast; destinations are displayed in the windshield. The city’s most famous line is the 802, which uses the oldest working trolleybuses in the world. The curvy cars date back to 1947 and have been declared a national monument.
Metro Valparaíso (%32-252-7615; www.metro-valparaiso.cl) operates commuter trains every six to 12 minutes from Valparaíso’s Estación Puerto (cnr Errázuriz & Urriola, Paseo del Puerto; h6am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 7:30am Sat & Sun) and Estación Bellavista (cnr Errázuriz & Bellavista; h6am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 7:30am Sat & Sun) to Viña del Mar (CH$450 to CH$500, depending on the hour of departure).
Taxis are much more expensive in Valparaíso than other Chilean cities.
If you’re willing to brave the hills on a bike, you’ll see a few outfitters around town renting bicycles (generally CH$6000 per half-day).
Viña Del Mar
%32 / POP 286,931
Clean and orderly Viña del Mar is a sharp contrast to the charming jumble of neighboring Valparaíso. Manicured boulevards lined with palm trees, stately palaces, a sprawling public beach and beautiful expansive parks have earned it the nickname of Ciudad Jardín (Garden City). Its official name, which means ‘Vineyard by the Sea,’ stems from the area’s colonial origins as the hacienda of the Carrera family. Not many foreign travelers stay here, opting instead for a day trip from Valparaíso. Nevertheless, Viña remains a popular weekend and summer destination for well-to-do Santiaguinos – and the carrete (partying) here is first rate.
1Sights
Viña’s white-sand beaches stretch northward from the northern bank of the Estero Marga Marga to the suburbs of Reñaca and Concón.
oJardín Botánico NacionalPARK
(National Botanical Garden; %32-267-2566; www.jbn.cl; Camino El Olivar 305; adult/child CH$2000/1000; h10am-6pm May-Aug, 9am-7pm Sep-Apr; 
g203)
There are over 3000 plant species in the nearly 400 hectares of parkland that comprise Chile’s Jardín Botánico Nacional. It’s 8km southeast of the city center; take a taxi or catch bus 203 from Viña along Calle Alvarez to Puente El Olivar, then cross the bridge and walk about 500m north to the park’s entrance signs.
Cerro CastilloAREA
(MAP)
A fantastic barrio for an afternoon stroll, with lovingly restored mansions, great city lookouts, a small ‘castle’ and the summer palace of the President of Chile. To reach the top of the hill, take the Bajada Britania (near Castillo Wulff) or Vista Hermosa (off Calle Valparaíso).
ArtequinMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-297-3637; www.artequinvina.cl; Parque Portrenillos 500; adult/child CH$1200/600; h8:30am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 10:15am-5:45pm Sat & Sun Mar-Dec; 11am-6:30pm Tue-Sun Jan & Feb; p
c)
This children’s museum has plenty of play areas and a big workshop for art classes. There are a few reproductions of masterpieces from the 15th to 20th centuries, including paintings and sculptures by both Chilean and international artists.
Parque Quinta VergaraPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Errázuriz 563; h7am-7pm)
Nowhere is Viña’s nickname of the ‘Garden City’ better justified than at the magnificently landscaped Parque Quinta Vergara, which you enter from Errázuriz at the south end of Libertad (here called Eduardo Grove). It once belonged to one of the city’s most illustrious families, the Alvares-Vergaras.
Castillo WulffHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-218-5753; Av Marina 37; h10am-1:30pm & 3-5:30pm Tue-Sun) F
Pretty Castillo Wulff, built by a prominent Valparaíso businessman in the early 20th century, hangs out over the sea: pass through the art exhibitions to the tower at the back, where you can peer through the thick glass floor at the rocks and waves below.
Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco FonckMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-268-6753; www.museofonck.cl; 4 Norte 784; adult/child CH$2700/500; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
The original moai (an Easter Island statue) standing guard outside the Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck is just a teaser of the beautifully displayed archaeological finds from Easter Island within, along with Mapuche silverwork and anthropomorphic Moche ceramics. Upstairs are old-school insect cases and taxidermied Chilean fauna.
Parroquia Nuestra Señora de DoloresCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.parroquiadevina.cl; Alvares 662; hMass at noon & 7pm)
Check out the cool iconography at Viña’s oldest church, built and rebuilt between 1882 and 1912.
zFestivals & Events
oFestival Internacional de la CanciónMUSIC
(International Song Festival; www.festivaldevina.cl; Anfiteatro Quinta Vergara, Parque Quinta Vergara; tickets from CH$25,000; hFeb)
At South America’s biggest music festival, held the third weekend in February, Latin American pop, rock and folk stars join top-tier global musicians to entertain crowds of up to 15,000 at Anfiteatro Quinta Vergara (and another 150 million via live broadcasts and online streaming). This massive event has launched the careers of everyone from Shakira to former host Sofia Vergara.
4Sleeping
Not Found HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %cell 9-3054-8854; www.notfoundrooms.com; Paseo Cousiño s/n; dm/d incl breakfast without bathroom CH$15,000/35,000; W)
Follow the cryptic yellow markings to the 3rd floor of a once-abandoned building on Paseo Cousiño to find Not Found Hostel. With hearty breakfasts, fluffy comforters on every bed and a sleek minimalist look, it’s one of the best hostels in town.
Columba HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-299-1669; www.columbahostel.com; Calle Valparaíso 618; dm CH$9000-12,000, d with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$35,000/30,000; W)
This vibrant hostel contains stylish dorms and doubles with colorful linens, hardwood floors and urban art. It’s a bit dirty, but the central location is great and there’s a communal kitchen, a female-only dorm and a chillout room with a TV. The private rooms are actually pretty passable.
Eco-Hostal Offenbacher-hofB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-262-1483; www.offenbacher-hof.cl; Balmaceda 102; r incl breakfast CH$55,000-65,000; W) S
There are fabulous views over the city from this commanding chestnut-and-yellow mansion atop quiet Cerro Castillo. Sweeping views, newly renovated bathrooms and antique furnishings make this your best buy in Viña. It’s spotless, the owner is charming and there’s an amazing patio for afternoon tea.
La Blanca HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP; %32-320-4121; www.lablancahotel.cl; Echevers 396; r incl breakfast CH$70,000-120,000; pW)
This sophisticated and well-loved eight-room hotel lies within a 1912-built town house at the end of a quiet residential alleyway near Parque Quinta Vergara.
Hotel del MarLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-250-0800; www.enjoy.cl; cnr Av Perú & Los Héroes; r incl breakfast CH$158,000-214,200; 
aWs)
The view from the sleek, glass-fronted lobby of Viña’s top luxury hotel is a preview of what awaits upstairs – on many floors you can see the sea from your bed and even the indoor pool seems to merge with the waves beyond the window. The glamorous service and style evokes the roaring ’20s.
5Eating
PanzoniITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-271-4134; Paseo Cousiño 12B; mains CH$4000-7000; h1-4pm daily, 8-11pm Thu-Sat)
One of the best-value eateries in central Viña, Panzoni’s well-prepared Italian pastas and friendly service reel in the lunchtime diners. The location is slightly hidden on an out-of-the-way passageway.
Portal ÁlamosSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Valparaíso 553; mains from CH$2500; hhours vary)
The Portal Álamos, a downtown shopping arcade, has a string of samey schop-and-sandwich joints that fill the open-fronted 2nd floor.
SamoiedoSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-268-4316; www.samoiedo.cl; Calle Valparaíso 639; mains CH$3000-7000; h8am-10:30pm)
For half a century the old boys have been meeting at this confitería (tearoom) for lunchtime feasts of steak and fries or well-stuffed sandwiches. The outdoor seating is greatly preferable to the interior, which is open to a busy shopping mall.
oSativoCHILEAN$$
(%cell 9-8219-1025; www.sativorestaurant.com; 4 Poniente 630, Local 18; mains CH$8000-13,000; hnoon-4pm Tue-Sat, also 8:30-11:30pm Thu-Sat; W)
Don’t let the simple storefront fool you: the plates here are works of art, the ingredients are fresh, the wine list is intriguing and the service is sublime. From the herb-filled butters and breads you get when you arrive to the free digestif offered when you leave, this will no doubt be a memorable dining experience. Try the octopus carpaccio!
Divino PecadoITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.divinopecado.cl; Av San Martín 180; mains CH$8000-14,000; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
The menu at this intimate, candlelit Italian restaurant includes scallops au gratin, artichoke lasagna and lamb-filled cappelletti – a divine sin indeed.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oCafé JournalCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafejournal1999; cnr Agua Santa & Alvares; cover free-CH$3000; hnoon-3:30am Sun-Thu, to 4:30am Fri & Sat)
Electronic music is the order of the evening at this boomingly popular club, which has two heaving dance floors, a lively terrace and an attached concert hall where emerging bands play on Friday and Saturday nights.
BarbonesBAR
(%cell 9-6434-2200; www.barbones.cl; 7 Norte 420; mains CH$5000-9000; h12:30pm-3:30am; W)
Gourmet Chilean sandwiches and chorrillanas (fries slathered in meat, eggs and onions), well-priced cocktails you can order by the pitcher and an extensive list of craft beers served on tap make this open-air restobar a one-stop spot for dinners that segue into late-night fun.
Club DivinoGAY
(%cell 9-5708-4660; www.clubdivino.cl; Camino Internacional 537; cover varies; h11:45pm-5am Fri & Sat)
Chile’s largest (and some say gaudiest) gay club, with DJs, drag queens, go-go dancers and room for 2000 sweaty revelers. It’s located about 10km from downtown along the Camino Internacional, so you’ll want to hire a taxi.
La Flor de ChileBAR
(%32-268-9554; www.laflordechile.cl; 8 Norte 601; mains CH$4000-10,000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat)
For nearly 40 years, Viñamarinos young and old have downed their schops (draft beer) over the closely packed tables of this gloriously old-school bar.
3Entertainment
Anfiteatro Quinta VergaraCONCERT VENUE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Parque Quinta Vergara)
This giant amphitheater hosts concerts and is the home of the Festival Internacional de la Canción.
Casino MunicipalCASINO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-250-0700; www.enjoy.cl/enjoy-vina-del-mar; Av San Martín 199; weekend entry CH$3800; h1pm-5am Mon-Thu, to 7am Fri & Sat, to 4am Sun)
Overlooking the beach on the north side of the Marga Marga, this elegant local landmark is the place to squander your savings on slot machines, bingo, roulette and card games. There’s also a disco, Club OVO, open Friday and Saturday nights from midnight to 5am (entry free–CH$10,000).
DON’T MISS
BEACH TOWNS
North of Viña del Mar, a beautiful road snakes along the coast, passing through a string of beach towns that hum with holidaying Chileans December through February. The beaches range from small, rocky coves to wide open sands. Towering condos overlook some, while others are scattered with rustic cottages and the huge summer houses of Chile’s rich and famous.
Reñaca & Concón
Viña’s high-rises merge into the multitiered apartments of Reñaca, a northern suburb with a wide, pleasant beach. Come to local landmark Roca Oceánica, a rocky hill looking out over the Pacific, for a sunset hike with incredible views (oceanside north of town). Concón, just north of Reñaca, is known for its casual and wonderfully authentic seafood restaurants. Top on the list are the crab-stuffed empanadas at Las Deliciosas (%32-281-1448; Av Borgoño 25370; empanadas CH$1500-2800; h9:30am-9:30pm) and evening cocktails and machas (razor clams) at local legend La Gatita (%32-327-1782; Pasaje Morales 230, Concón; mains CH$6000-10,000; hnoon-11pm).
Horcón
Chile’s hippie movement began at the tiny fishing town of Horcón, on a small curving peninsula that juts out into the Pacific 28km north of Concón. Brightly painted, ramshackle buildings clutter the steep main road down to its small, rocky beach where fishing boats come and go. These days there’s still a hint of peace, love and communal living – note the happy-go-lucky folks gathering on the beach with dogs, guitars, and bottles of liquor in paper bags at sunset. If hippie chic is more your scene try La Ritoqueña (%cell 9-6121-2447; www.laritoquena.com; Sitio 70, Ritoque; r from CH$65,000; W), a beachfront cabin complex between Concón and Horcón that can arrange yoga, surfing and fishing.
Maitencillo
About 21km north of Horcón, Maitencillo’s long, sandy beaches stretch for several kilometers along the coast and attract many visitors. Escuela de Surf Maitencillo (%cell 9-9238-4682; www.escueladesurfmaitencillo.cl; Av del Mar 1450; group class per person CH$16,000; hclasses at noon & 4pm Mar-Dec, extended hours Jan & Feb) is a relaxed place to learn how to surf. Although the town is packed with holiday homes, it retains a pleasant low-key vibe. A favorite restaurant, bar and cabin complex is Cabañas Hermansen & La Canasta (%32-277-1028; www.hermansen.cl; Av del Mar 592; 2-/4-/6-person cabins CH$62,000/87,000/110,000) for wood-baked pizzas and – of course – fresh fish.
Cachagua
This small, chillaxed town 13km north of Maitencillo sits on the northern tip of a long crescent beach. Just across the water is the Monumento Nacional Isla de Cachagua (www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-isla-cachagua/), a guano-stained rocky outcrop that’s home to roughly 2000 Humboldt penguins, as well as a colony of sea lions. Ask local fishers at Zapallar Caleta to take you closer to the island, but you cannot get off the boat.
Zapallar
Santiago’s elite flock to the most exclusive of Chile’s Pacific resorts, 2km north of Cachagua. Multi-million-dollar mansions cover the wooded hillsides leading up from the beach, which is an unspoiled arc of sand in a sheltered cove. Everyone who’s anyone in Zapallar makes a point of lunching at El Chiringuito (%cell 9-9248-3139; Francisco de Paula Pérez s/n; mains CH$12,500-20,000; h12:30-6pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, extended hours Jan & Feb; p), where terrace tables look out over the rocks and pelicans fishing for their dinner.
Papudo
This workaday town attracts a more grounded crowd than its ritzy neighbor Zapallar, meaning you can dine on CH$1600 empanadas right on the ocean at places such as Banana (Irarrázaval 86, Papudo; h11:30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat).
8Information
Most streets are identified by a number and direction, either Norte (North), Oriente (East) or Poniente (West). Av Libertad separates Ponientes from Orientes.
Banco Santander (%32-226-6917; Plaza Vergara 108; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) One of several banks with ATMs on the main square.
Conaf (%32-232-0200; www.conaf.cl; 3 Norte 541; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Provides information on nearby parks, including Parque Nacional La Campana.
Hospital Gustavo Fricke (%32-257-7602; www.hospitalfricke.cl; Alvares 1532; h24hr) Viña’s main public hospital, located east of downtown.
Lavarápido (%32-290-6263; Av Arlegui 440, local 104; per kilo CH$2000; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) Offers an express service.
Municipal Tourist Office (%32-218-5712; www.visitevinadelmar.cl; Av Arlegui 715; h9am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) Stop by for maps, pamphlets and English-language tourist assistance.
Post office (Correos de Chile; Plaza Vergara s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Centrally located post office off the main plaza.
8Getting There & Away
All long-distance services operate from the orderly Rodoviario Viña del Mar (%32-275-2000; www.rodoviario.cl; Valparaíso 1055). There’s tourist information here and luggage storage downstairs (CH$1000).
There are frequent departures for northern coastal towns from Reñaca to Papudo with several local bus lines through the Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso (TMV; www.tmv.cl; short-distance trips CH$440), plus privately run line Sol del Pacífico (%32-275-2008; www.soldelpacifico.cl). To catch one, go to Plaza Vergara and the area around Viña del Mar’s metro station; expect to pay between CH$1200 and CH$2200 one way, depending on your final destination. For Reñaca, take the orange 607, 601 or 605. The 601 continues to Concón, or take the 302 instead.
8Getting Around
Frequent local buses run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso connect Viña and Valparaíso. Some routes run along the waterfront following Av Marina and Av San Martín; others run through the town center along Av España and Av Libertad. Destinations are usually displayed in the windshield.
In summer Viña is congested and tricky to park in. However, a car can be very useful for touring the northern coast or the Casablanca Valley wineries. Europcar (%32-217-7593; www.europcar.com; Marina 15; cars per day from CH$30,000; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat & Sun) is your best bet for a rental.
The commuter train Metro Valparaíso (%32-252-7633; www.metro-valparaiso.cl; h6am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 7:30am Sat & Sun) also runs between Viña and Valpo every six to 12 minutes during the day.
Casablanca Valley Wineries
A cool climate and temperatures that vary greatly from day to night have made this valley halfway between Santiago and Valparaíso one of Chile’s best regions for top-notch Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs. Its well-organized wineries take food and wine tourism seriously, and many have on-site restaurants. There’s no public transportation to any of the wineries, but in a rental car you can easily blitz four or five of them in a day – most are on or around Ruta 68. Alternatively, contact the Ruta del Vino de Casablanca or Eno-tour for curated wine tours. Drivers note that Chile has a zero tolerance (zero alcohol) driving-under-the-influence policy. Make sure you have a designated driver. Some of the larger wineries offer drop-in visits, but it’s recommended to reserve in advance for tours.
1Sights
Ruta del Vino de CasablancaSHOWROOM
(%cell 9-6572-9579; www.rutadelvinodecasablanca.cl; Óscar Bonilla 56; hinfo center & cafe 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, cafe only 10am-7:30pm Sat)
Make this info center on Casablanca’s main plaza your first stop to pick up free valley winery maps or to book tours. There’s also a showroom with local wines and an on-site cafe serving espresso coffee.
2Activities
oViña IndómitaWINE
(%32-215-3902; www.indomita.cl; Ruta 68, Km64; tastings from CH$3500, tours from CH$10,000; h10am-5pm)
There’s no beating the views from these vineyards – the Hollywood-style sign on the hillside is easily spotted from afar. Reserve ahead for special trekking excursions, horseback riding and harvest tours (March and April).
oEmilianaWINE
(%2-2353-9130; www.emiliana.cl; Ruta 68, Km60.7; tastings from CH$12,000, tours from CH$16,000; h10am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 6pm Dec-Mar) S
Tastings take place in a gorgeous slate-and-wood building overlooking vines that are grown organically using biodynamic principles. Reserve ahead for chocolate pairings, premium tastings, picnics or DIY winemaking experiences.
CatralaWINE
(%cell 9-9639-7563; www.catrala.cl; Camino Lo Orozco, Km10; tours from CH$17,000, full-day outing with lunch and tastings CH$70,000; hopen by appointment only) S
For a boutique experience, book a tour and tasting at this sustainable winery. You’ll walk through vineyards that lie right along the edge of a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.
Note that the winery is located about 45 minutes north from Casablanca via F-50.
Viña MarWINE
(%32-275-4300; www.vinamar.cl; Camino Interior Nuevo Mundo s/n; tours from CH$13,000; h10am-5:30pm, reduced hours Jun-Aug)
The striking manor at the heart of this carefully landscaped property houses the gourmet restaurant Macerado. Come for tours with tastings of Viña Mar’s sparklings or sister-property Leyda’s premium wines.
William Cole VineyardsWINE
(%32-215-7777, ext 114; www.williamcolevineyards.cl; Fundo El Rosal s/n; tastings from CH$7000, tours from CH$13,000; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
With architecture inspired by old-fashioned Chilean missions and English-speaking staff, this contemporary winery is very visitor friendly. Walk-up wine tastings are generally possible.
Viña Casas del BosqueWINE
(%2-2480-6940; www.casasdelbosque.cl; Hijuelas 2 Ex Fundo Santa Rosa; tastings from CH$7500, tours with/without tastings CH$12,500/7000; h10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
This winery with a stunning mirador over the Casablanca Valley also offers bike rentals for use in its vineyards (CH$9000). While the grounds are gorgeous and the wine is some of the best in the valley, be aware that this place can often get overrun with bus tours.
Viña MateticWINE
(%2-2611-1520; www.matetic.com; Fundo Rosario s/n, Lagunillas; tastings from CH$6000, tours from CH$13,000; h10am-5pm)
A real showstopper: the glass, wood and steel gravity-flow winery has attracted almost as much attention as the wines. Book tours in advance or simply show up for tastings; you can stay the night at La Casona, its on-site boutique hotel (rooms from US$450).
House of MorandéWINE
(%32-275-4701; www.morande.cl; Ruta 68, Km61; tastings from CH$5000, tours from CH$9000; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
An architecturally striking wine ‘house’ featuring a fantastic gourmet restaurant, tastings and tours of Morandé’s Casablanca vineyard.
Viña VeramonteWINE
(%32-232-9955; www.casonaveramonte.com; Ruta 68, Km66; tastings from CH$12,500, tours from CH$13,000; h9:30am-5pm)
Veramonte’s Cabernets and Chardonnays have won ‘top value’ awards from Wine Spectator. Tours and tastings take place in a rather soulless industrial complex.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Casablanca Spa & WineHOTEL$$
(%32-274-2711; www.hotelrutadelvino.cl; F-864-G s/n; r from CH$64,000; pWs)
With two pools (indoor and outdoor) alongside a hot tub, wine spa, sauna, gym and tennis court, this hotel’s amenities mean you may never want to leave and explore the nearby vineyards. The hotel oozes character with its arched adobe walls and wooden finishings – we just wish the grounds were a little cleaner and the breakfast was more inspiring.
oCasa BothaINTERNATIONAL$$
(%cell 9-7431-2040; Ruta 68, Km63; mains CH$13,000; h12:30-6pm Wed-Sun) S
Let the gregarious South African owner David usher you through a long and lazy lunch with surprising wine pairings from boutique producers at this eclectic restaurant, built entirely from recycled materials. The menu changes with the season but always includes homemade pastas and at least one vegan option.
8Getting There & Around
Both Pullman Bus and Ruta Curacaví offer hourly buses between Santiago’s Terminal San Borja and Casablanca’s Plaza de Armas, with the last bus departing for Santiago at 7:30pm. Local buses to Valparaiso pick up from Casablanca’s Plaza de Armas roughly every 20 minutes between 7am and 10pm. Note that if you arrive by public transportation you will need to hire taxis or book a tour in town to visit the wineries.
You’ll need a car to visit the Casablanca Valley’s wineries on your own. Drive over from Valparaíso, or rent a car from Santiago. Make sure to set your GPS to avoid tolls as driving on Ruta 68 between wineries can incur fees of up to CH$1900 each time.
Quintay
As the sun sets over the Pacific, the craggy rocks protecting the tiny fishing cove and ex–whaling station of Caleta Quintay are stained a rich pink. The Quintay Whaling Station (1943–1964) was the largest on Chile’s long Pacific Coast, employing up to 1000 men at its height. The open-air Museo Ex Ballenera (www.fundacionquintay.cl; Costanera s/n; adult/child CH$800/free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) at the site documents the region’s whaling history and explores modern-day whale conservation. Signage is in Spanish only.
Several of the colorful houses clustered in this low-key outpost are seafood restaurants. One of the best places for a seaside lunch is the terrace of Restaurant Miramar (%032-236-2046; Costanera s/n; mains CH$7000-10,000; h12:30-5:30pm; W). You can see your future meal up close on the guided scuba dives run by Austral Divers (%cell 9-9885-5099; www.australdivers.cl; Costanera s/n; beginner dive lesson CH$45,000, single dive CH$27,000; h9am-9pm), a PADI-certified dive company.
A signposted turnoff about 1.2km back down the road toward Valparaíso takes you down a 1.5km road to the long, sweeping Playa de Quintay, one of the prettiest, most natural beaches in the region.
Quintay is an easy half-day trip from Valparaíso. Transportes Quintay (%cell 9-9183-7388) operates taxi colectivos between just outside Valparaíso’s bus terminal (on Av Argentina) and Quintay’s main street (from CH$2000, one hour), 500m from Caleta Quintay and 2.5km from Playa de Quintay.
Isla Negra
It was poet Pablo Neruda who put Isla Negra on the map and gave the area its confusing name (‘Black Island’ in English) after the dark outcrop of rocks offshore. Neruda’s former home and current gravesite here attract droves of visitors from across the globe, and a vibrant community of poets and artists remain in town continuing his legacy. You’ll also find solemn beaches for strolling, and a scenic ravine, Quebrada de Cordova, for hiking.
The spectacular setting on a windswept ocean headland makes it easy to understand why Casa de Isla Negra (Pablo Neruda’s House; %035-461-284; www.fundacionneruda.org; Poeta Neruda s/n; adult/child CH$7000/2500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec, to 7pm daily Jan & Feb) was Pablo Neruda’s favorite house. Built by the poet when he became rich in the 1950s, it was stormed by soldiers just days after the 1973 military coup when Neruda was dying of cancer.
Overenthusiastic commercialization gives a definite Disney-Neruda vibe to visits here, as the house is surrounded by countless gift stands and themed cafes. Yet, the audio-guided tours now allow you to linger longer over the extraordinary collections of shells, ships in bottles, nautical instruments, colored glass, fine art and books. The seemingly endless house (Neruda kept adding to it) and its contents are awe-inspiring. On the terrace outside you’ll find Neruda’s tomb and that of his third wife, Matilde, overlooking the sea.
At sustainably minded hostel La Conexion del Poeta (%cell 9-9409-7786; www.laconexiondelpoeta.com; Los Aromos 341; s/d/tr CH$23,000/33,000/40,000; W) S owner Sandra has built a minikingdom of earthly goodness. Perks include free yoga on Sundays, a reading library with inspirational titles, homemade herbal teas and bountiful breakfasts. Behind the hostel you’ll find a relaxing herb garden and two studios for massage, reiki, reflexology and other treatments. Rooms upstairs offer partial sea views.
Isla Negra is an easy half-day trip from Valparaíso. Pullman Bus Lago Peñuelas (%032-222-4025) leaves from Valparaíso’s bus terminal every hour (CH$3200, 1½ hours). Pullman Bus Costa Central (%032-246-9398; www.pullmancosta.cl) comes here direct from Santiago’s Terminal de Buses Alameda (CH$4000–CH$6000, 1½ hours, hourly).
Parque Nacional la Campana
Within this national park (%33-244-1342; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-la-campana; adult/child CH$4000/2000; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri) are two of the highest mountains in the coastal range: Cerro El Roble (2200m); and Cerro La Campana (1890m), which Charles Darwin climbed in 1834. Visitor numbers have risen since then, but the park remains relatively uncrowded despite its proximity to Santiago. It’s subdivided into three sectors: Conaf’s main administration station is at Granizo, near Olmué. There are also rangers at the nearby entrance of Cajón Grande and at Ocoa, in the north of the park.
Most of the park’s 80 sq km resemble the dry, jagged scrubland of the mountains of Southern California. The park protects around 100 animal species, and several endemic plant species. There’s excellent hiking to be had here. Paved access roads lead to the three entrances, but there are no roads within the park. Spring is the best time to visit.
2Activities
Sendero AndinistaHIKING
Most people come to the park to make like Darwin and ascend Cerro La Campana: on clear days its summit affords spectacular views stretching from the Pacific to the Andean summit of Aconcagua. From the Granizo park entrance (373m above sea level), the Sendero Andinista climbs 1455m in only 7km.
Mercifully, most of the hike is in shade. Prior to the final vertiginous ascent you pass a granite wall with a plaque commemorating Darwin’s climb. Figure at least four hours to the top and three hours back down. Start early!
Sendero Los PeumosHIKING
The 5.5km Sendero Los Peumos connects the Granizo entrance to the Sendero Amasijo, which winds for another 7km through a palm-studded canyon to Ocoa. The whole hike takes around five hours one way. The southern part of Sendero Amasijo plunges down into Cajón Grande, a canyon with deciduous forests of southern beech.
Sendero La CascadaHIKING
From Ocoa, Sendero La Cascada leads 6km to Salto de la Cortadera, an attractive 30m-high waterfall that is best during the spring runoff.
4Sleeping
Conaf runs two basic 23-tent campsites (CH$6000) with toilets and cold-water showers near the Ocoa and Cajón Grande entrances. Backcountry camping is not permitted. In really dry weather, only a handful of campers are permitted at a time to reduce the risk of fires.
8Getting There & Away
The park is easily accessible by car from Santiago (160km) and Valparaíso (60km). There is no public transportation to any of the three entrances, though Pullman Bus runs a regular service between Santiago and Olmué. Metro Valparaiso also sells a ticket to Olmué, from which you could catch a quick taxi to the Granizo or Cajón Grand entrances.
ACONCAGUA VALLEY
If you arrive in Chile overland from Mendoza, the fertile Aconcagua Valley is the first scenery you see. It’s watered by the Río Aconcagua, which flows west from the highest mountain in the Americas, Cerro Aconcagua (6962m), just over the Argentine border. Scenic highway CH-60 runs the length of the valley and snakes across the Andes to Mendoza.
Los Andes
%34 / POP 61,000
A stopover on your way to the Portillo ski area or over to Argentina, this dusty agricultural town has great views of the neighboring foothills, a few quiet museums and little else. Ask at your hotel for local hiking options or wineries that offer tastings. They may even point out that Nobel Prize–winner Gabriela Mistral taught school in Los Andes. Another remarkable Chilean woman, nun Santa Teresa de los Andes, worked her miracles here.
1Sights
Museo Antiguo Monasterio del Espíritu SantoMUSEUM
(%34-242-1765; Av Santa Teresa 389; adult/child CH$1000/500; h9:30am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
The award for the most unintentionally bizarre museum displays in Middle Chile goes to this museum. Mannequins in nuns’ habits re-create scenes from Santa Teresa’s life: she took her vows in this ex-convent then died of typhus, aged 19.
TTours
Góndola CarrilRAIL
(%cell 9-9319-3454; www.efe.cl/empresa/servicios/trenes-turisticos/gondola.html; Av Argentina 51; tickets CH$35,000)
This tourist train leaves the FEPASA Los Andes station one Sunday morning each month (March to November), chugging up the valley in a throwback passenger-engine combo across the old Trans-Andean route to Río Blanco, where you stop for lunch. You arrive back in Los Andes by 6pm. Check the website for upcoming dates.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel GenovaGUESTHOUSE$
(http://hotelgenova.cl; Las Heras 523; s/d/tr CH$25,000/33,000/39,000; pWs)
Behind a mustard-yellow facade two blocks southwest of the Plaza de Armas you’ll find Los Andes’ best budget digs. Local textiles and artwork liven up the small rooms, and there’s a small pool that’s a godsend on a hot summer’s day.
Nanko’s Delicias Del MundoINTERNATIONAL$
(%cell 9-9611-3681; www.facebook.com/nankosdelicias; Gral Freire 353; mains CH$1500-6000; hnoon-3:30pm & 7-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 7pm-midnight Sat; W)
This eclectic hole-in-the-wall has a wide-ranging menu of well-priced (and well-executed) comfort foods, from pizzas to burgers and Venezuelan-style arepas. Add in friendly service, good tunes and thirst-quenching fruit juices and you can see why Nanko’s is a travelers’ favorite.
La Table de FranceFRENCH$$$
(%cell 9-7216-1656; http://latabledefrance.cl; Camino Internacional, Km3, El Sauce; mains CH$9000-16,000; h1-4pm & 8:30-11pm Tue-Sat, 12:30-6pm Sun; W)
Rolling countryside is the only thing between the Andes and the sweeping terrace of this French-run restaurant on a hill 3km out of town. Duck, rabbit and wild boar satisfy adventurous carnivores, while dishes such as goat’s-cheese lasagna cater to vegetarians.
From the center of town, take Av Esmeralda east to General del Canto; it’s a quick 10-minute drive.
8Orientation
The highway to the Argentine border (CH-60, the Carretera Internacional) runs across the north of Los Andes, where it’s called Av Argentina. The bus station lies north of it, eight blocks from the town center. Esmeralda, the main commercial street, runs along the north side of the Plaza de Armas where you’ll find most travelers’ services.
8Getting There & Away
Los Andes is the last (or first) Chilean town on the route between Santiago and Mendoza in Argentina; buses pass through its Terminal de Buses Los Andes (Rodoviario Internacional; Av Carlos Díaz 111), eight blocks northwest of the Plaza de Armas on the northern extension of Av Santa Teresa (called Av Carlos Díaz).
Pullman Bus (www.pullman.cl; Av Carlos Díaz 111) has regular services to Santiago’s terminal San Borja (CH$2500, 1½ hours, hourly). El Rápido (www.elrapidoint.com.ar; Av Carlos Díaz 111) has direct buses to Mendoza (from CH$22,000, 10:15am and 11:15pm, six hours) and Buenos Aires (from CH$50,000, 10am, 18–20 hours).
Portillo
Set around the spectacular alpine lake of Laguna del Inca on the Argentine border, Portillo (%2-2263-0606; www.skiportillo.com; daily ski pass adult/child CH$44,000/26,000; hlifts 9am-5pm) is one of Chile’s favorite ski resorts. There’s not much to do here in the summer but hike to the other side of the lake (5km), and the resort is basically shuttered outside the ski season. But when the snow comes, so does the fun. It’s not just amateurs who love its ultrasteep slopes: the US, Austrian and Italian national teams use it as a base for their summer training, and the 200km/h speed barrier was first broken here. Some of its terrain is apt for novices but it’s hard-core powder junkies that really thrive. Altitudes range from 2590m to 3310m on its 20 runs, the longest of which measures 3.2km. Aside from the hotel and attached lodges, there are no other businesses here.
4Sleeping
Accommodations in Portillo are geared around weeklong or less-frequent three-day-long all-inclusive stays. (Sleeping 70km west in Los Andes is a much cheaper alternative.) Regardless of where you stay, you can use the gym, yoga facilities, games room, small cinema and babysitting services for free. Shops, an internet cafe and a bar and disco are also on-site. The heated outdoor swimming pool is, far and away, the standout amenity.
Inca LodgeLODGE$
(%2-2263-0606; www.skiportillo.com; r per person per week incl meals & lift pass US$1365; pWs)
The Inca Lodge is rather dim and dated, and has a bit of a ski-bum vibe to it. Share a four-bed dorm room to save big.
Octagon LodgeLODGE$$
(%2-2236-0606; www.skiportillo.com; r per person per week incl meals & lift pass US$2125; ps)
This octagon-shaped lodge has slightly cramped four-bunk rooms with private bathrooms. It’s one step up from the nearby Inca Lodge and draws a slightly older crowd.
Hotel PortilloHOTEL$$$
(%2-2263-0606; www.skiportillo.com; r per person per week incl meals & lift pass US$4400-6475; pWs)
Portillo’s most luxurious option is the Hotel Portillo, which has an Old World elegance and smallish doubles with lake or valley views. Except for the restaurant, the hotel and all its facilities are closed during the summer (October to May).
ChaletsCABIN$$$
(%2-2263-0606; www.skiportillo.com; q/f per week incl meals & lift pass US$8700/14,000; pWs)
The resort’s only summer accommodation option, these chalets sleep four to eight people in a ’70s-style space that feels like a ship’s cabin. Amazing views.
8Getting There & Away
Driving to Portillo takes two to three hours from Santiago, depending on road conditions.
Portillo Tours & Travel (%2-2263-0606; ptours@skiportillo.com) runs shuttle buses (US$70 one way) to and from Santiago airport, but only on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It can arrange shuttle transportation for a slightly higher price other days of the week.
An alternative is provided by private ski transfers that run affordable Wednesday and Saturday shuttles from Santiago to the slopes; we like Ski Total (%2-2246-0156; www.skitotal.cl; Av Apoquindo 4900, Locales 37-46, Las Condes, Santiago; round-trip CH$27,000). It also rents equipment, which will save you time once you reach Portillo.
The Santiago to Mendoza services run by Buses Tas Choapa (www.taschoapa.cl) can drop you on the far side of the highway from Portillo (a quick five-minute walk); if there are seats you may be able to catch them to Los Andes, Santiago or Mendoza.
ACONCAGUA MOUNTAIN
So you’re dying to get closer to the highest peak in the Americas – but you don’t have time to travel? Santiago-based outfitter Andes Wind (%cell 9-9710-7959; www.andeswind.cl; day trip CH$75,000) runs daylong journeys that take you into Argentina and closer to the mountain. After stopping in Portillo on the way back, you’ll be in the capital city around 7:30pm.