Southern Patagonia
Magallanes Region
Punta Arenas
Última Esperanza
Puerto Natales
Cueva del Milodón
Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
Argentine Patagonia
El Calafate
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South)
El Chaltén
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North)
Southern Patagonia
Why Go?
Pounding westerlies, barren seascapes and the ragged spires of Torres del Paine – this is the distilled essence of Patagonia. The provinces of Magallanes and Última Esperanza boast a frontier appeal perhaps only matched by the deep Amazon and remote Alaska. Long before humans arrived on the continent, glaciers chiseled and carved these fine landscapes. Now it’s a place for travelers to hatch their greatest adventures, whether hiking through rugged landscapes, seeing penguins by the thousands or horseback riding across the steppe.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is the region’s star attraction. Among the finest parks on the continent, it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year, even some towing wheeled luggage (though we don’t recommend that). Throughout the region, it’s easy and worthwhile to travel between Argentina and Chile. Included in Southern Patagonia are the highlights of Argentine Patagonia.
When to Go
- Dec–Feb Warmest months, ideal for estancia (grazing ranch) visits and backpacking.
- Mid-Oct–early Mar Coastal fauna, including penguins and marine birds, abounds.
- Mar–Apr Blasting summer winds start to die down and brilliant fall colors come in.
Best Places to Stay
Southern Patagonia Highlights
1 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Discovering the remote backside of this national park.
2 Isla Magdalena Joining the march of the penguins.
3 Fitz Roy Range Hiking under this toothy range near El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital.
4 Ride the range Eating a traditional asado (barbecue) at a working ranch outside Puerto Natales.
5 Puerto Natales Pampering yourself with locally distilled spirits, a massage and lovely meals after time in Torres del Paine.
6 Parque Nacional Pali Aike Exploring the gnarled volcanic steppe of this little-known park.
7 Glaciar Perito Moreno Checking out the cool blue contours of this 15-story glacier in Argentina.
History
Caves in Última Esperanza show that humans, known as the Aonikenk people, have inhabited the region since 10,000 BC. In 1520 Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to visit the region. Development was spurred by the California gold rush, which brought trade via the ships sailing between Europe, California and Australia.
In the late 19th century, estancias (grazing ranches) formed, creating a regional wool boom that had massive, reverberating effects for both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia. Great wealth for a few came at the cost of native populations, who were all but wiped out by disease and warfare. With the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, traffic reduced around Cabo de Hornos and the area’s international importance diminished.
Today fisheries, silviculture, small oil reserves and methanol production, in addition to a fast-growing tourism industry, keep the region relatively prosperous.
8Getting There & Around
The easiest way to get to Southern Patagonia is to fly from Santiago or Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas. There are many flights daily and less-frequent flights from a few other major Chilean cities. Other transportation options include the Navimag ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, or a long bus trip from Puerto Montt that goes to Argentina and then back over to Punta Arenas.
Unlike other parts of Patagonia, the roads around Punta Arenas are paved and smooth. Buses to major destinations are frequent but should be booked ahead in summer. Travelers must fly or take a ferry to get to Porvenir or Puerto Williams.
MAGALLANES REGION
This rugged, weather-battered land has been inhabited for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. While modern inhabitants have little in common with the natives who once paddled the channels in canoes and hunted guanacos, they still remain cut off from the rest of the continent by formidable mountains and chilly waters. A supreme sense of isolation (and hospitality) is what attracts most visitors to Magallanes. The only way to get here from the rest of Chile is by air or sea, or by road through Argentine Patagonia.
While the capital, Punta Arenas, offers all of the conveniences of a major Chilean city, its surroundings are raw and desolate. Here visitors will find the end-of-the-world pioneer feeling to be recent and real.
Magallanes’ modern economy depends on commerce, petroleum development and fisheries. Prosperity means it has some of the highest levels of employment and some of the best-quality public services in Chile.
Punta Arenas
%061 / POP 124,500
A sprawling metropolis on the edge of the Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas defies easy definition. It’s a strange combination of the ruddy and the grand, with elaborate wool-boom mansions and port renovations alongside urban sprawl. Set at the bottom of the Americas, it is downright stingy with good weather – the sun shines through sidelong rain.
Magellanic hospitality still pervades local culture, undeterred and even nurtured by nature’s inhospitality. Recent prosperity, fed by a petrochemical industry boom and growing population, has sanded down the city’s former roughneck reputation. It would be nice if it were all about restoration, but duty-free shopping and mega-malls on the city outskirts are the order of the future.
History
Little more than 150 years old, Punta Arenas was originally a military garrison and penal settlement conveniently situated for ships headed to California during the gold rush in later years. Compared to the initial Chilean settlement at Fuerte Bulnes, 60km south, the town had a better, more protected harbor and superior access to wood and water. English maritime charts dubbed the site Sandy Point, and thus it became known as the Spanish equivalent.
In its early years Punta Arenas lived off natural resources, including sealskins, guanaco hides and feathers, as well as mineral products (including coal and gold), guano, timber and firewood. The economy took off in the last quarter of the 19th century, after the territorial governor authorized the purchase of 300 purebred sheep from the Falkland Islands. This successful experiment encouraged sheep ranching, and by the turn of the century nearly two million animals grazed the territory.
The area’s commercial and pastoral empires were built on the backs of international immigrant labor, including English, Irish, Scots, Croats, French, Germans, Spaniards, Italians and others. Many locals trace their family origins to these diverse settlers. The many mansions created by the wealthy are now hotels, banks and museums.
Punta Arenas
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oCementerio MunicipalCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; main entrance at Av Bulnes 949; 
h7:30am-8pm) 
F
Among South America’s most fascinating cemeteries, with both humble immigrant graves and flashy tombs, like that of wool baron José Menéndez, a scale replica of Rome’s Vittorio Emanuele monument, according to author Bruce Chatwin. See the map inside the main entrance gate.
It’s an easy 15-minute stroll northeast of the plaza, or catch any taxi colectivo (shared taxi with specific route) in front of the Museo Regional de Magallanes.
Museo Regional de MagallanesMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museo Regional Braun-Menéndez; %61-224-4216; www.museodemagallanes.cl; Magallanes 949; h10:30am-5pm Wed-Mon, to 2pm May-Dec) F
This opulent mansion testifies to the wealth and power of pioneer sheep farmers in the late 19th century. The well-maintained interior houses a regional historical museum (ask for booklets in English) and original exquisite French-nouveau family furnishings, from intricate wooden inlaid floors to Chinese vases. In former servants’ quarters, a downstairs cafe is perfect for a pisco sour while soaking up the grandeur.
Museo Naval y MarítimoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-220-5479; www.museonaval.cl; Pedro Montt 981; adult/child CH$1000/300; h9:30am-12:30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat)
A naval and maritime museum with historical exhibits that include a fine account of the Chilean mission that rescued Sir Ernest Shackleton’s crew from Antarctica. The most imaginative display is a replica ship complete with bridge, maps, charts and radio room.
Casa Braun-MenéndezHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-1489; h10:30am-1pm & 5-8:30pm Tue-Fri, 10:30am-1pm & 8-10pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F
Facing the Plaza Muñoz Gamero’s north side is the Club de la Unión, which houses the former Palacio Sara Braun, now known as the Casa Braun-Menéndez.
Museo Río SecoMUSEUM
(%cell 9-5335-0707; www.museodehistorianaturalrioseco.org; Río Seco; h3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon & 3-6pm Sat & Sun) F
The pet project of the Caceres brothers, this funky homespun museum is a delightful detour for fans of natural history. Imaginative displays use fine naturalist drawings and painstakingly restored skeletons of seabirds, sea lions and whales to give a picture of life on the strait. Call ahead before visiting, as they might be cleaning whale bones out back.
Volunteers are welcome with a one-week minimum.
Plaza Muñoz GameroPLAZA
A central plaza of magnificent conifers surrounded by opulent mansions. Facing the plaza’s north side, Casa Braun-Menéndez houses the private Club de la Unión, which also uses the tavern downstairs (open to the public). The nearby monument commemorating the 400th anniversary of Magellan’s voyage was donated by wool baron José Menéndez in 1920. Just east is the former Sociedad Menéndez Behety, which now houses Turismo Comapa. The cathedral sits west.
Instituto de la PatagoniaMUSEUM
(%61-220-7051; Av Bulnes 01890; h8:30-11am & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri)
Pioneer days are made real again at the Patagonian Institute’s Museo del Recuerdo (%61-220-7056; www.umag.cl; CH$2000; h8:30-11am & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri), part of the Universidad de Magallanes. The library has historical maps and a series of historical and scientific publications. Any taxi colectivo that is heading to the Zona Franca will drop you across the street.
DON’T MISS
MONUMENTO NATURAL LOS PINGÜINOS
The thriving Magellanic penguin colonies of Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos (www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-los-pinguinos; adult/child CH$7000/3500; hNov-Mar) on Isla Magdalena and Isla Marta are well worth visiting, particularly if you have never seen penguins before. The islands are 35km northeast of Punta Arenas. Five-hour ferry tours (adult/child CH$50,000/25,000) spend 1½ hours in transit and land for an hour at the island; they depart the port on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, December through February. Confirm times in advance. Book tickets through Turismo Comapa and bring a picnic.
2Activities
Patagonia DivingDIVING
(%cell 9-8982-4635; www.patagoniadiving.cl; Calle Juan Williams s/n, Río Seco; hhours vary)
With PADI-certified guides, this outfit takes divers to see shipwrecks, cold-water corals and sea-lion colonies. There are also impressive kelp beds and dolphins around. Offers dives and courses with full equipment. It’s located 13km north of Punta Arenas toward the airport.
Cruceros AustralisCRUISE
(%in Santiago 2442-3110; www.australis.com; hSep-May)
Runs luxurious four- and five-day sightseeing cruises between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia. Turismo Comapa handles local bookings.
Ride PatagoniaMOUNTAIN BIKING
(%cell 9-7135-8831; www.ridepatagonia.cl; full day US$150)
This new guide service does singletrack tours and mellower dirt-road rides away from traffic around Punta Arenas and even in Tierra del Fuego. With full-suspension bikes.
TTours
Patagonia BackroadsTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-1111, cell 9-8393-6013; www.patagoniabackroads.com; Av España 1032)
For those who dream of Che’s Motorcycle Diaries trip. Operator Aníbal Vickacka runs reputable 10-day BMW motorcycle (or 4WD) tours of Patagonia.
Kayak Agua FrescaKAYAKING
(%cell 9-9655-5073; www.kayakaguafresca.com; 4½hr tour CH$70,000)
On the rare day in Punta Arenas when winds are calm and the sea is glass, the sea kayaking can be spectacular. This company also does Zodiac boat excursions. There’s no office; see the website for information.
Solo ExpedicionesTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-271-0219; http://soloexpediciones.com; Nogueira 1255)
This agency offers several tours: an Isla Magdalena penguin tour with faster, recommended semi-rigid boats (other tours take the ferry) and whale-watching day trips in the Parque Marino Francisco Coloane.
Isla MagdalenaBIRDWATCHING
(admission/tour CH$7000/63,000; hDec-Feb)
Isla Magdalena has thriving Magellanic penguin colonies. Five-hour ferry tours land for an hour at the island and depart the port on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from December through February. Confirm times in advance. Book tickets through Turismo Comapa and bring a picnic.
Turismo ComapaTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-220-0200; www.comapa.com; Lautaro Navarro 1112; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
Sells tours for day trips around Punta Arenas, including the thriving Magellanic penguin colonies of Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos on Isla Magdalena. Also sells Navimag tickets.
Whale SoundWHALE WATCHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-1935; www.whalesound.com; Lautaro Navarro 1111; per person 3-day package US$1500; hNov-Apr)
Supports science with sea expeditions to the remote Parque Marino Francisco Coloane. Packages range from two days/one night to four days/five nights with lodging in domes and at Hostería Faro San Isidro.
Turismo Laguna AzulBIRDWATCHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-5200; www.turismolagunaazul.com; Magallanes 1011; tour CH$50,000)
If you are keen to see the king penguins on Tierra del Fuego, this agency makes a very long day trip of it, leaving before 8am and returning by 9pm. Much of the trip is getting there. Beware that you may not get a guide or lunch (bring your own), and entrance to the private Reserva Onaisin is extra (CH$14,000).
Turismo AonikenkTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-8616; Magallanes 570)
Now only organizing trips with visitors in person, this recommended agency offers Cabo Froward treks, visits to the king penguin colony in Tierra del Fuego, and cheaper open expeditions geared at experienced participants. With English-, German- and French-speaking guides.
zFestivals & Events
Winter SolsticeCULTURAL
(hJun 21)
The longest night of the year is celebrated on June 21.
Carnaval de InviernoCULTURAL
(hlate Jul)
At the end of July with fireworks, parades and good cheer.
4Sleeping
Hostel EntrevientosHOSTEL$
(%61-237-1171; www.hostelentrevientos.cl; Jorge Montt 0690; incl breakfast dm US$21, d/tr US$56/80; 
W)
Near the sparkling waterfront, this spacious A-frame has commanding sea views from an ultra-cozy 2nd-floor living room. There’s an ample guest kitchen, and dorm rooms and snug private rooms downstairs. It’s warmly attended by the owners, who also rent bikes (CH$7000 per day). The downside: it’s a 25-minute walk to the center, but buses also go.
Hostal IndependenciaGUESTHOUSE$
(%61-222-7572; https://hostalindependencia.es.tl; Av Independencia 374; campsites per person CH$5000, dm incl breakfast CH$10,000; 
iW)
One of the last diehard backpacker haunts with cheap prices and good vibes to match. Despite the chaos, rooms are reasonably clean and there are kitchen privileges, camping and bike rentals (CH$8000 per day).
Al Fin del MundoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-271-0185; www.alfindelmundo.hostel.com; O’Higgins 1026; dm/d without bathroom CH$15,000/40,000; W)
On the 2nd and 3rd floors of a musty downtown building, these rooms are cheerful but due for updates. All share bathrooms with hot showers and a large kitchen, as well as a living area with a large TV, a pool table and a DVD library. Has bikes for rental (CH$1000 per hour).
Hotel LacoletBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-2045; www.lacolet.cl; Arauco 786; d incl breakfast US$125-145; 
pW)
On the foothills of the Cerro de la Cruz lookout, this gorgeous brick heritage house has parquet floors and five comfortable rooms with TVs, and hairdryers in the tiled bathrooms. Service is good and the buffet breakfast easily stands among Patagonia’s best, serving four types of homemade bread, local rhubarb jam, eggs, fruit and deli meats and cheeses.
Hotel PatagoniaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-7243; www.patagoniabb.cl; Av España 1048; d incl breakfast US$85-125; pW)
A solid midrange option offering no-nonsense rooms with crisp white linens and simple style. Service could be a few degrees warmer. It’s accessed via a long driveway behind the main building.
Hospedaje MagallanesB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-8616; www.hospedaje-magallanes.com; Magallanes 570; d CH$60,000, dm/d without bathroom CH$20,000/45,000; iW)
A great inexpensive option run by a German-Chilean couple who are also Torres del Paine guides with an on-site travel agency. With just a few quiet rooms, there are often communal dinners or backyard barbecues by the climbing wall. Breakfast includes brown bread and strong coffee.
Hostel KeokenGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-4086; www.hostelkeoken.cl; Magallanes 209; s/d CH$45,000/58,000, without bathroom CH$35,000/45,000; i)
Increasingly popular with backpackers, Hostel Keoken features comfortable beds topped with fluffy white down comforters and homemade pastries for breakfast. The center of town is a few minutes away on foot.
oLa Yegua LocaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-237-1734; www.yegualoca.com; Fagnano 310; r US$200-220)
Immerse yourself in regional lore at this gorgeous boutique hotel with relics from ranching life repurposed as clever fixtures and decor. Ample rooms play with themes such as shearing sheds, carpentry workshops and milking halls, all with comfortable beds and central heating. The service is attentive. It sits on a hillside with great views of the city; there’s an on-site restaurant.
oIlaia HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-272-3100; www.ilaia.cl; Carrera Pinto 351; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$110/150/200; hSep-Apr; pW) 
S
Playful and modern, this high-concept boutique hotel is run with family warmth. Sly messages are written to be read in mirrors, rooms are simple and chic, and an incredible glass study gazes out on the strait. Offers massage and healthy breakfasts with chapati bread, homemade jam, avocados, yogurt and more. But you won’t find a television. Recycles and composts.
Hostal InnataGUESTHOUSE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6279-4254; www.innatapatagonia.com; Magallanes 631; d/apt CH$97,000/120,000; pW)
This pleasant and central guesthouse consists of a stylish home with 11 guest rooms with down duvets and LED TVs, and a new block of apartments out back. Breakfast is available at the hour you request it and there are box-breakfasts for early tours. Reserve ahead.
Hotel Dreams del EstrechoHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %toll-free 600-626-0000; www.mundodreams.com/detalle/dreams-punta-arenas; O’Higgins 1235; d CH$158,000; piW
s)
Parked at the water’s edge, this glass oval high-rise brings a little Vegas to the end of the world. It’s a glittery atmosphere, with spacious and luxuriant rooms, but the show-stopper is the swimming pool that appears to merge with the ocean. There’s also a spa, a casino and a swank restaurant on-site.
Hotel Cabo de HornosBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-2134; www.hotelcabodehornos.com; Plaza Muñoz Gamero 1025; d/tr US$235/280; iW)
This smart business hotel begins with a cool interior of slate and sharp angles, but rooms are relaxed and bright, with top-notch views. Service is good and the well-heeled bar just beckons you for a nightcap. The on-site restaurant is well-regarded too.
Hotel PlazaHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-1300; www.hotelplaza.cl; Nogueira 1116; d/tr incl breakfast CH$70,000/101,000; W)
This converted mansion boasts vaulted ceilings, plaza views and historical photos lining the hall. Inconsistent with such grandeur, the country decor is unfortunate. But service is genteel and the location unbeatable.
5Eating
La ViandaMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Errázuriz 928; snacks CH$4000; h10:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
The first stop for picnickers or those soon to climb aboard a long-distance bus, this market does a variety of excellent breads, including sweet varieties and sourdough, all-natural soups and fresh rhubarb juice and jams. Decent premade sandwiches are on offer too.
La Mesita GrandePIZZA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-4312; O’Higgins 1001; mains CH$4000-9000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun)
If you’re homesick for Brooklyn, La Mesita Grande might do the trick. This mod exposed-brick pizzeria serves them up thin and chewy, with organic toppings and pints of local brew. Also has awesome Caesar salads. Save room for its homemade ice cream. The original outlet is in Puerto Natales.
Los InmigrantesCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-2205; www.inmigrante.cl; Quillota 559; mains CH$5000; h2:30-9pm)
In the historic Croatian neighborhood, this cafe serves decadent cakes in a room full of interesting relics from Dalmatian immigrants.
Mercado MunicipalMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 21 de Mayo 1465; mains CH$3000-6000; h8am-3pm)
Fish and vegetable market with cheap 2nd-floor cocinerías (eateries), this is a great place for inexpensive seafood dishes.
Café Almacen TapizCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8730-3481; www.cafetapiz.cl; Roca 912; mains CH$5000; h9am-9:30pm; W)
Cloaked in alerce shingles, this lively cafe makes for an ambient tea break. In addition to gorgeous layer cakes, there are salads and pita sandwiches with goat cheese, meats or roasted veggies.
Fuente HamburgCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-5375; Errázuriz 856; mains CH$3000-6500; h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-3pm Sat)
Shiny barstools flank a massive grill churning out quickie bites. Grab a churrasco (thin-sliced beef) topped with tomatoes and green beans, served with fresh mayo on a soft bun.
PachamamaSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-6171; Magallanes 619A; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1:30pm Sat)
Bulk trail-mix munchies, oats and organic products at a good price.
Kiosco RocaSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Roca 875; snacks CH$700; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
An irresistible stop, with locals patiently waiting for counter stools and U of Chile paraphernalia plastering the walls. It only turns out bite-sized sandwiches with chorizo or cheese or both, best paired with a banana milkshake.
UnimarcSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bories 647; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun)
A large, well-stocked supermarket.
El Fogon de LaloGRILL$$
(%61-237-1149; 21 de Mayo 1650; mains CH$7000-12,000; h8-11pm Tue-Sun)
Local beef and lamb are grilled to perfection in this loud grill house decorated with pioneer memorabilia. There are also good salads and sides – everything comes à la carte. Expect expert service from a seasoned waiter who will likely talk you into a pisco sour and starters.
La MarmitaCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-2056; www.marmitamaga.cl; Plaza Sampaio 678; mains CH$8000-12,000; h12:30-3pm & 6:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat; 
v)
This classic bistro enjoys wild popularity for its playful ambience and tasty fare. Besides fresh salads and hot bread, hearty dishes such as casseroles or seafood hark back to grandma’s cooking, Chilean style. With good vegetarian options and takeout service.
La CuisineFRENCH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-8641; O’Higgins 1037; mains CH$8000-13,000; h12:30-2:45pm & 7:30-11pm Mon-Sat)
If you’re craving veggies beyond the trusted potato, this plain-Jane French restaurant is a good bet. Seafood dishes come with sautéed vegetables, green salad or ratatouille. There’s also homemade pâté, and wine by the glass is cheap.
Damiana ElenaCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6122-2818; Magallanes 341; mains CH$8000-14,000; h8-11pm Mon-Sat)
This elegant restaurant is in a romantic old house, off the beaten path in a residential neighborhood. The detour is usually worth it.
Sotito’sSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-3565; O’Higgins 1138; mains CH$8000-17,000; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)
This seafood institution is popular with moneyed locals and cruise-ship travelers in search of a classy king crab feast. The decor may not be inspiring but the cuisine doesn’t disappoint. The upstairs room has an expanded, cheaper menu that includes pastas.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBodega 87BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-237-1357; 21 de Mayo 1469; h8:30pm-1:30am Sun-Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat)
A fine addition to the city, this neighborhood bar is friendly and bubbling with life. There are memorable craft cocktails and local beer. Try a not-too-sweet calafate mojito.
Bar ClinicPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-237-1250; Errázuriz 970; h6pm-2:30am Mon-Sat)
This gorgeous corner pub with leather details and polished floors has had nine lives: in its current incarnation it is a franchise outlet of the Santiago bar named for the humorous political newspaper. Although the intriguing backstory isn’t evident to a casual visitor, the drinks are OK, and half-price from 6pm to 9pm Monday through Thursday.
Meraki CafeCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-224-4097; Magallanes 922; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat)
If you’re picky about espresso, beeline to this unassuming cafe and roaster also serving sandwiches and cakes. For those traveling on to bleaker coffee pastures, it’s well worth nabbing a bag of its single-origin beans (ground, if you wish) for the road.
Cafe Wake UpCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-237-1641; Errázuriz 944; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
If you’ve lost your hipster in Magallanes, he’s probably hanging out at this industrial-chic cafe with a double latte in hand. There’s also some light fare that’s reasonably priced.
La TabernaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-222-2777; Casa Braun-Menéndez, Plaza Muñoz Gamero; h7pm-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-3am Sat & Sun)
This dark and elegant subterranean bar, with polished wood fixtures and cozy nooks reminiscent of an old-fashioned ship, is a classic old boys’ club. The rooms fill with cigar smoke later in the evening, but the opportunity to sip pisco sours in this classy mansion shouldn’t be missed.
INDECENT EXPOSURE
In the mid-1980s British scientists at Halley Station in Antarctica noticed that their ozone-measuring instrument seemed to have gone wrong – ozone levels were vastly lower than had ever been recorded before. Unfortunately, it was not their instrument that had gone wrong, but the ozone itself – ozone levels over Antarctica in springtime were dropping to a fraction of the regular amount.
Soon after, they isolated the culprit: chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), which are human-made gases used in aerosols, refrigeration, air-conditioning, industrial solvents, asthma inhalers and fire control. Most of the time CFCs are innocuous, but in the Antarctic springtime the combination of very cold temperatures and the return of sunshine to the polar region allows the CFCs to rapidly gobble up the stratospheric ozone, resulting in the famed ozone hole. As spring progresses, Antarctic temperatures start to warm, and the ozone begins to recover, only to be depleted again when the next spring arrives.
Ozone protects the earth’s surface from UV radiation, the stuff that causes sunburn and skin cancer, among other things. The ozone hole has impacted Southern Patagonia more than any other inhabited area on earth, particularly during spring when the ozone hole is at its worst. Visitors, especially children, should wear brimmed hats and sunglasses, and slather on the sunscreen.
The 1987 Montreal Protocol banned CFCs, and Antarctic ozone levels are finally beginning to recover, but it will take another couple of decades to get back to normal. Unfortunately, many of the gases that are now used in place of CFCs are greenhouse gases, adding to the warming of our planet.
Jocelyn Turnbull, atmospheric scientist
7Shopping
Andrea AranedaART
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8904-5392; aranedacreaciones@gmail.com; Maipu 305; hby appointment)
The workshop of talented local painter Andrea Araneda, with a playful touch on Magellanic themes. As it’s a workspace, call ahead (English OK), and your visit may even include a glass of wine. At the time of writing, there were plans to move the studio to Plaza Sampaio sometime in the future.
Zona FrancaSHOPPING CENTER
(Zofri; %61-236-2000; Km3.5 Norte; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat)
The duty-free zone is a large, polished conglomeration of shops that is worth checking out if you’re looking for electronics, outdoor gear, computer accessories or camera equipment. Colectivos (shared taxis) shuttle back and forth from downtown along Av Bulnes throughout the day.
8Information
Banks with ATMs dot the city center. Sur Cambios (%61-271-0317; Navarro 1001; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) exchanges money, as do some travel agencies.
The post office (Bories 911; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is located one block north of Plaza Muñoz Gamero.
Conaf (%61-223-0681; Av Bulnes 0309; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has details on nearby parks.
Information kiosk (%61-220-0610; Plaza Muñoz Gamero; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun Dec-Feb) Tourist information on the south side of the plaza.
Police (%61-224-1714; Errázuriz 977)
Sernatur (%61-224-1330; www.sernatur.cl; Fagnano 643; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) With friendly, well-informed, multilingual staff and lists of accommodations and transportation. Reduced hours in low season.
Sernatur has a list of recommended doctors. Get medical care at the Hospital Regional (%61-220-5000; cnr Arauco & Angamos).
8Getting There & Away
The tourist offices distribute a useful brochure that details all available forms of transportation.
AIR
Punta Arenas’ airport (PUQ) is 21km north of town.
Aerovías DAP offers Antarctica tours (full day US$5500), charter flights over Cabo de Hornos and to other Patagonian destinations, including Ushuaia and El Calafate, Argentina. From November to March, flights run to Porvenir (CH$55,000 round-trip) Monday through Saturday several times daily, to Pampa Guanaco in Tierra del Fuego, and to Puerto Williams (CH$143,000 round-trip) Monday through Saturday at 10am. Luggage is limited to 10kg per person.
Sky Airline (%61-271-0645; www.skyairline.cl; Roca 935) and LATAM (%61-224-1100; www.latam.com; Bories 884) serve Puerto Montt and Santiago. At the time of writing, LATAM was expected to add flights to Ushuaia. Aerolineas Argentinas has flights within and sometimes to Argentina.
BOAT
Transbordador Austral Broom (%61-272-8100; www.tabsa.cl; Av Bulnes 05075) operates three ferries to Tierra del Fuego. The car and passenger ferry to/from Porvenir (CH$6200/39,800 per person/vehicle, 2½ to four hours) usually leaves at 9am but has some afternoon departures; check the current online schedule. From Punta Arenas, it’s faster to do the Primera Angostura crossing (CH$1700/15,000 per person/vehicle, 20 minutes), northeast of Punta Arenas, which sails every 90 minutes between 8:30am and 11:45pm. Broom sets sail for Isla Navarino’s Puerto Williams (reclining seat/bunk CH$108,000/151,000 including meals, 30 hours) three or four times per month on Thursday only, returning Saturday.
Cruceros Australis runs luxurious four-day and five-day sightseeing cruises to Ushuaia and back. Turismo Comapa handles local bookings.
BUS
Buses depart from company offices, most within a block or two of Av Colón. Buy tickets several hours (if not days) in advance. The Central de Pasajeros (%61-224-5811; cnr Magallanes & Av Colón) is the closest thing to a central booking office.
For Puerto Natales, try Buses Fernández (%61-224-2313; www.busesfernandez.com; Sanhueza 745) or Bus Sur (%61-261-4224; www.bus-sur.cl; Av Colón 842).
For Argentina, try Buses Ghisoni (%61-224-0646; www.busesbarria.cl; Av España 264), Buses Pacheco (%61-224-2174; www.busespacheco.com; Av Colón 900) and Tecni-Austral (%61-222-2078; Navarro 975).
For Chile’s Lake District, try Cruz del Sur (%61-222-7970; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; Sanhueza 745).
Daily destinations and companies include the following:
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Osorno | 35,000 | 30 |
| Puerto Natales | 7000 | 3 |
| Río Gallegos | 20,000 | 5-8 |
| Río Grande | 30,000 | 7 |
| Ushuaia | 35,000 | 10 |
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Buses depart directly from the airport to Puerto Natales. Patagon Transfer (%cell 9-5096-3329; www.transferaustral.com; CH$5000) runs door-to-door shuttle services to/from town to coincide with flights. Buses Fernández does regular airport transfers (CH$4000).
BUS & TAXI COLECTIVO
Taxi colectivos, with numbered routes, are only slightly more expensive than buses (about CH$500, or a bit more late at night and on Sundays), but far more comfortable and much quicker.
CAR
Cars are a good option for exploring Torres del Paine, but renting one in Chile to cross the border into Argentina gets expensive due to international insurance requirements. If heading to El Calafate, it is best to rent your vehicle in Argentina.
Punta Arenas has Chilean Patagonia’s most economical rental rates, and locally owned agencies tend to provide better service. Recommended Adel Rent a Car (%61-222-4819; www.adelrentacar.cl; Pedro Montt 962; h9:30am-1pm & 3:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) provides attentive service, competitive rates, airport pick-up and good travel tips. Other choices include Hertz (%61-224-8742; O’Higgins 987) and Lubag (%61-271-0484; www.lubag.cl; Magallanes 970).
Around Punta Arenas
Monumentos históricos Nacionales Puerto Hambre & Fuerte Bulnes
Two national monuments make up Parque del Estrecho de Magallanes, with trails and guided visits in addition to a top-notch museum and a cafe. Founded in 1584 by Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, it was one of Spain’s most inauspicious and short-lived South American outposts, known as Puerto Hambre (Port Hunger) because its inhabitants starved to death.
In May 1843 Chilean president Manuel Bulnes sent the schooner Ancud, manned by Chilotes and captained by former British officer John Williams, to occupy this southern area, then only sparsely populated by indigenous peoples. Four months later on September 21, when the Ancud arrived at Puerto Hambre, Williams declared the area Chilean territory and began to establish camp on a hilltop, dubbed Fuerte Bulnes. Exposure, lack of potable water, rocky soil and inferior pasture sent colonists northward to a more sheltered area known as Sandy Point by the settlers and Lacolet by the Tehuelche.
1Sights
oParque del Estrecho de MagallanesPARK
(%61-272-3195; www.phipa.cl; Km56 Sur; adult/child CH$14,000/6000; h9:30am-5:15pm)
The historic sites of Puerto Hambre (Port Hunger) and Fuerte Bulnes are the centerpiece of this privately managed park, an excellent introduction to regional history. The museum is Patagonia’s best. Hourly presentations, sometimes in English, create a vivid picture of the lives of indigenous inhabitants and intrepid settlers. There’s a restored wooden fort, where a fence of sharpened stakes surrounds the blockhouse, barracks and chapel. A 6km trail network offers lookouts on the Strait of Magellan with views to Tierra del Fuego.
Set aside at least an hour to see the creative exhibits at the museum covering natural history, regional exploration and information about the original inhabitants. It’s well worth booking a guided tour for a dynamic explanation of events.
8Getting There & Away
A paved road runs 60km south from Punta Arenas to the park. There isn’t any scheduled public transportation but several tour companies make half-day excursions to Fuerte Bulnes and Puerto Hambre.
Cabo Froward
The most southerly point on the continent, Cabo Froward (Cape Froward) is 90km south of Punta Arenas and accessible by a two-day hike along wind-whipped cliffs. At the cape, a 365m hill leads to an enormous cross, originally erected by Señor Fagnano in 1913; the latest one was erected in 1987 for Pope John Paul II’s visit. Camping is possible along the trail. Ask about guided hikes at any of the tour companies in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales–based Erratic Rock.
Faro San Isidro, about 15km before Cabo Froward, is a lighthouse near the base of Monte Tarn (830m). This rugged area is home to prolific birdlife and some good hiking. It’s also a launch point for humpback whale–watching trips to Isla Carlos III in Parque Marino Francisco Coloane, Chile’s first marine park. Humpbacks and minke whales feed seasonally here between December and May.
8Getting There & Away
The only access is by boat or a two-day hike, with tides affecting visitors’ ability to continue along the trail.
Parque Nacional Pali Aike
Rugged volcanic steppe pocked with craters, caves and twisted formations, Pali Aike means ‘devil’s country’ in Tehuelche. This desolate landscape is a 50-sq-km park along the Argentine border. Mineral content made the lava rocks red, yellow or green-gray. Fauna includes abundant guanaco, ñandú, gray fox and armadillo. In the 1930s Junius Bird’s excavations at 17m-deep Pali Aike Cave yielded the first artifacts associated with extinct New World fauna such as the milodón and the native horse Onohippidium.
Parque Nacional Pali Aike (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-pali-aike; adult/child under 12yr CH$3000/1000) has several trails, including a 1.7km path through the rugged lava beds of the Escorial del Diablo to the impressive Crater Morada del Diablo; wear sturdy shoes or your feet could be shredded. There are hundreds of craters, some four stories high. A 9km trail from Cueva Pali Aike to Laguna Ana links a shorter trail to a site on the main road, 5km from the park entrance.
8Getting There & Away
Parque Nacional Pali Aike is 200km northeast of Punta Arenas via RN 9, Ch 255 and a graveled secondary road from Cooperativa Villa O’Higgins, 11km north of Estancia Kimiri Aike. There’s also access from the Chilean border post at Monte Aymond. There is no public transportation, but Punta Arenas travel agencies offer full-day tours.
ÚLTIMA ESPERANZA
With a name that translates to Last Hope, the once-remote Última Esperanza fills the imagination with foreboding. Storms wrestle the vast expanse and the landscape falls nothing short of grand; after all, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field are in the backyard. Often lumped together with neighboring Magallanes, Última Esperanza is a separate southern province. While it can still be a challenging place to travel in winter, it is no longer so far off the beaten path. In fact, the tourism boom has transformed parts of it from rustic to outright decadent; still, there’s something for everyone here.
Puerto Natales
%61 / POP 18,000
A formerly modest fishing port on Seno Última Esperanza, Puerto Natales has blossomed into a Gore-Tex mecca. The gateway to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, this town feeds off tourism, an all-you-can-eat feast with unwavering demand. Boutique beers and wine tastings have overtaken tea time, and gear shops have replaced the yarn sellers. While there are growing services that cater to international tastes, there’s appeal in Natales’ corrugated-tin houses strung shoulder to shoulder and cozy granny-style lodgings. Most notably, in spite of a near-constant swarm of visitors, the town still maintains the glacial pace of living endemic to Patagonia.
Puerto Natales is 250km northwest of Punta Arenas via Ruta 9, and has some striking views out over the mountains. It is the capital of the province of Última Esperanza and the southern terminus of the ferry trip through the Chilean fjords.
1Sights & Activities
Museo HistóricoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-1263; Bulnes 28; CH$1000; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat & Sun)
Worth a quick visit, this is a crash course in local history, with archaeological artifacts, a Yaghan canoe, Tehuelche bolas and historical photos.
Mirador DoroteaTRAIL
(Ruta 9; CH$5000)
A day hike through a lenga forest on private land to splendid views of Puerto Natales and the glacial valley. It’s located less than 10km from Natales. Dorotea is the large rocky outcrop just off Ruta 9.
Estancia La PenínsulaOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-6303-6497; www.estanciaspatagonia.com; Península Antonio Varas; day tour CH$130,000)
Operated by a family with pioneer roots in the region, this classic estancia across the water offers day visits that include hiking or riding, herding-dog and sheep-shearing demonstrations and an awesome barbecue lunch of spit-roasted lamb. There are also excellent multiday hiking options with a remote feel. The meeting place is the dock at Singular Hotel.
Mandala AndinoSPA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9930-2997; mandalaandino@yahoo.com; Bulnes 301; massages from CH$25,000; h10am-9pm Nov-Mar)
A recommended full-service wellness center with spot-on massages, tub soaks and various pampering treatments, including cannabis-oil massages. Also sells interesting gifts and local crafts.
Patagom LilaYOGA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6140-7857; www.yogapatagomlila.com; Galvarino 345) S
Wonderful yoga teacher Susanne offers classes in English, German and Spanish in both a downtown house and a spectacular rural dome with views of the Seno Última Esperanza, where you will also find permaculture courses, yoga vacations and Thai and singing bowl massages. She also brings alternative therapies into the local community.
TTours
Antares/Bigfoot PatagoniaADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4611; www.antarespatagonia.com; Costanera 161, Av Pedro Montt; Lago Grey kayaking CH$66,000)
Specializing in Torres del Paine, Antares can facilitate climbing permits and made-to-order trips. Its sister company Big Foot has the park concession for Lago Grey activities, including Glacier Grey ice-trekking and kayak trips, with a base in the park.
Baqueano ZamoraHORSEBACK RIDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-261-3530; www.baqueanozamora.cl; Baquedano 534; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm)
Runs recommended horseback-riding trips and wild-horse viewing in Torres del Paine.
Chile NativoADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-1835, cell 9-9078-9168; www.chilenativo.cl; Eberhard 230, 2nd fl)
Links visitors with local gauchos, organizes photo safaris and can competently plan your tailor-made dream adventures.
Erratic RockADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4317; www.erraticrock.com; Baquedano 955; h10am-1pm & 2-11pm) S
Guides bare-bones Torres del Paine trips plus alternative options and rents gear. Alternative treks include Cabo Froward, Isla Navarino and lesser-known destinations. Also provides excellent information sessions on Torres del Paine at 11am and 3pm daily.
Turismo 21 de MayoTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-261-4420; www.turismo21demayo.com; Eberhard 560; h8am-10pm Oct-Mar)
Organizes day-trip cruises and treks to the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers (CH$90,000) and horseback riding on Cerro Dorotea (CH$30,000), just outside Puerto Natales.
Fortaleza ExpedicionesADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-261-3395; www.fortalezapatagonia.cl; Tomás Rogers 235)
Knowledgeable; rents camping gear.
Pingo SalvajeHORSEBACK RIDING
(%cell 9-6236-0371; www.pingosalvaje.com; Estancia Laguna Sofia; half-day horseback ride CH$40,000; hOct-Apr)
This lovely estancia getaway offers horseback riding and condor spotting. You can stay over in a comfortable shared cabin (CH$22,000 per person; bring a sleeping bag) or campsite (CH$8000 per person) under a stand of trees, outfitted with grills, tables and hot showers. It’s 30km from Puerto Natales; transportation costs CH$12,000 per person.
Turismo Fjordo EberhardADVENTURE
(Estancia Puerto Consuelo; %cell 9-6171-9655; www.fiordoeberhard.com; Km23 Norte)
Surrounded by tranquil fjords and looming mountains, this gorgeous estancia offers horseback riding and kayaking.
4Sleeping
oWild PatagoniaHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7715-2423; www.wildhostel.com; Bulnes 555; incl breakfast d US$85, dm/d without bathroom US$24/70; hSep-Apr; W)
Emanating happy vibes, this hostel has pleasant rooms, with tin-clad cabins around a courtyard with a fire pit. Breakfast includes fresh bread, yogurt and jam. Open to the public from 3pm on, the cafe serves great local beef burgers and often features live music at night. The polyglot owners speak a heap of languages and orient guests on park services.
With equipment rental.
oVinn HausBOUTIQUE HOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8269-2510; http://vinnhaus.com; Bulnes 499; dm/d incl breakfast US$24/80; hSep-May; W)
Taking dormitory living to a new level, this Chilean-Finnish enterprise employs a gorgeous vintage concept with old suitcases, antique tiles and pleated leather. Each bunk has its own USB outlet, and outlets for various plug designs. The wine bar and cafe serves some of the best coffee this side of Colombia. With buffet breakfast and a cute courtyard for lounging.
We Are PatagoniaB&B$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7389-4802; www.wearepatagonia.com; Barros Arana 155; dm incl breakfast US$25; W)
A lovely art hostel with minimalist Nordic charm and a grassy backyard. The small house has mixed dorms with 30 beds with down duvet covers, four bathrooms and a small open kitchen. Reception is 24-hour and it rents bikes (CH$2000 per hour).
Singing LambHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-0958; www.thesinginglamb.com; Arauco 779; incl breakfast dm US$23-28, d US$80; iW) S
A clean and green hostel with compost, recycling, rainwater collection and linen shopping bags. Dorm rooms are priced by the number of beds (maximum nine) and shared spaces are ample. Nice touches include central heating and homemade breakfasts. To get here, follow Raimírez one block past Plaza O’Higgins.
YaganhouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4137; www.yaganhouse.cl; O’Higgins 584; dm CH$15,000, d with/without bathroom CH$40,000/36,000; W)
A Chilean country house with renovated rooms, a nice patio area and a grassy courtyard. There are a few single rooms (CH$24,000, shared bathroom) and homey living spaces with colorful throws and rugs, laundry service and equipment rental.
Lili Patagonico’s HostalHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4063; www.lilipatagonicos.com; Arturo Prat 479; incl breakfast dm CH$14,000, d/tr CH$37,000/42,000, d/q without bathroom CH$29,000/44,000; iW)
A sprawling house with a climbing wall, a variety of dorms (some without bunks) and colorful doubles with newer bathrooms and down comforters. Offers 24-hour reception, multilingual service, laundry service and equipment rental.
Hostal Dos LagunasGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8162-7755; hostaldoslagunas@gmail.com; cnr Barros Arana & Bories; dm/d without bathroom & incl breakfast CH$13,000/$35,000; W)
Natales natives Alejandro and Andrea are attentive hosts, spoiling guests with filling breakfasts, steady water pressure and travel tips. Among the town’s most long-standing lodgings, the place is spotless.
Hostal NancyGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-0022, dorm 61-241-4325; www.nataleslodge.cl; Ramírez 540; dm CH$15,000, s/d/tr CH$25,000/40,000/46,000; W)
Praised for its adoptable hostess Nancy, this remodeled family guesthouse has TVs and bathrooms in all rooms. There are kitchen privileges in the annex across the street. It’s a family environment with twin or double beds available with shared bathroom. Breakfast includes homemade jam.
Residencial BernarditaGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-1162; www.residencialbernardita.cl; O’Higgins 765; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast CH$22,000/36,000; W)
Guests highly recommend Bernardita’s quiet rooms with central heating and mismatched granny decor. Choose between rooms in the main house or more private ones in the back annex. There’s also kitchen use.
Hotel VendavalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-269-1760; http://hotelvendaval.com; Eberhard 333; d incl breakfast US$125; W)
Ushering in a new generation of lodgings in Puerto Natales, Vendaval is a Natalino-owned metal-clad beauty, with polished-concrete floors, folkloric Chilean etchings and art with maritime themes. Its 23 rooms are spread over four floors, with central heating, glass showers and cozy down bedding. There are panoramic views from the roof terrace, and a restaurant was in the works at the time of research.
KauB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4611; www.kaulodge.com; Costanera 161, Av Pedro Montt; d incl breakfast CH$72,000-88,500; Ws) S
With a mantra of simplicity, this aesthetic remake of a box hotel is cozy and cool. Thick woolen throws, picnic-table breakfast seating and well-worn, recycled wood lend casual intimacy. Rooms feature fjord views, central heating, bulk toiletries, and safe boxes. The Coffee Maker espresso bar boasts killer lattes and staff have tonnes of adventure information on tap.
4ElementosGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9524-6956; www.4elementos.cl; Esmeralda 811; per person CH$30,000; W) S
A pioneer of Patagonian recycling, the passionate mission of this spare guesthouse is educating people about proper waste disposal. The hostel itself produces zero waste. Guests enjoy Scandinavian breakfasts made with care. Guide service, park bookings and greenhouse tours are available. By reservation only, as it isn’t always open.
Temauken HotelB&B$$
(%61-241-1666; www.temauken.cl; Calle Ovejero 1123; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$65,000/75,000/85,000; W)
A cheerful and elegant choice well away from the center, this newer three-story stilted home is plush and modern, with an ample, light-filled living room and panorama sea views.
AmerindiaB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-1945; www.hostelamerindia.com; Barros Arana 135; d CH$55,000-65,000, without bathroom CH$48,000, 6-person apt CH$120,000; iW)
An earthy, tranquil retreat with a wood stove, beautiful weavings and raw wood beams. Guests wake up to cake, eggs and oatmeal in a cozy cafe open to the public, also selling organic chocolate, teas and gluten-free options. Also rents cars.
Big Bang PatagoniaB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4317; www.erraticrock2.com; Benjamin Zamora 732; d incl breakfast US$80; iW)
Billed as a ‘hostel alternative for couples,’ this cozy home offers 10 spacious doubles with throw pillows and tidy bathrooms. Breakfasts in the bright dining room are abundant.
It’s by reservation only in low season.
oSingular HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%61-241-4040, bookings in Santiago 2387-1500; www.thesingular.com; RN 9, Km1.5; d incl breakfast US$530, d incl full board & excursions US$1630; piWs)
A regional landmark reimagined, the Singular is a former meatpacking and shipping facility on the sound. Heightened industrial design, like chairs fashioned from old radiators in the lobby, mixes with vintage photos and antiques. The snug glass-walled rooms have water views, and a well-respected bar-restaurant (alongside the museum; open to the public) serves fresh local game.
Guests can use the spa with pool and explore the surroundings by bike or kayak. It’s located in Puerto Bories, 6km from the center.
Simple PatagoniaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%cell 9-9640-0512; www.simplepatagonia.cl; Puerto Bories; d incl breakfast US$250-290; W) S
Emanating tranquility, this modern lodge employs recycled light posts, polished concrete and raw lenga details with lovely results. It’s family run by warm Chileans, with 11 rooms with safes, hairdryers, radiant heat and sea views. The on-site restaurant offers gourmet dinners and breakfast when you want it. There are also bicycles for use. It’s 4.5km from Puerto Natales.
These rates allow a free change of date.
Bories HouseINN$$$
(%61-241-2221; www.borieshouse.com; Puerto Bories 13-B; d/tr US$150/195, cottage US$350; W) S
Located outside of Puerto Natales in nearby Puerto Bories, this lovely option has all the elegance of an English country house with sweeping views of the sound. There’s a comfortable den area and just a few rooms, with bold fabric headboards and sturdy wooden furniture. Dinners are available with advance notice.
Hotel IF PatagoniaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-0312; www.hotelifpatagonia.com; Magal-lanes 73; s/d incl breakfast US$150/160; pW) S
Brimming with hospitality, IF (for Isabel and Fernando) is minimalist and lovely. Its bright, modern interior includes wool throws, down duvets and deck views of the fjord. There are also a garden sauna and a wooden hot tub.
RemotaLODGE$$$
(%61-241-4040, bookings in Santiago 2387-1500; www.remota.cl; RN 9, Km1.5; d incl breakfast US$370; iWs)
Unlike most hotels, this one draws your awareness to what’s outside: silence broadcasts gusty winds, windows echo old stock fences and a crooked passageway imitates estancia sheep corridors. Though rooms are cozy, there’s a feeling of isolation here and service can be cool. With all-inclusive adventure and fly-fishing packages.
WeskarHOTEL$$$
(%61-241-4168; www.weskar.cl; RN 9, Km5; d US$150-250; iW)
Just outside of town on the coastal road of the sound, this wooden lodge boasts big views, cozy nooks and a variety of rooms. Prices are high for the homespun, mismatched style, with rooms with water views a good deal more, but shoulder-season rates offer good value. There’s a buffet-style breakfast and its upscale restaurant has garnered acclaim.
Noi Indigo PatagoniaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-3609; www.indigopatagonia.com; Ladrilleros 105; d incl breakfast from US$229; iW)
Hikers will head first to Indigo’s rooftop Jacuzzis and glass-walled spa (nonguests CH$20,000). Materials like eucalyptus, slate and iron overlap the modern with the natural to interesting effect, though rooms tend to be small. The star here is the fjord in front of you, which even captures your gaze in the shower. It’s part of Chile’s upscale Noi chain.
5Eating
La ForesteraBURGERS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7389-4802; Barros Arana 155; mains CH$6900; h1-3pm & 7:30-11pm Tue-Sun)
These gorgeous gourmet burgers do disappear fast. Tasty regular and lamb burgers or lentil and beet alternatives are served on airy brioche buns. It also does super-spicy wings and crisp onion rings, well matched with a local brew. There are just a few tables but also takeout service.
Cafe KaikenCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8295-2036; Baquedano 699; mains CH$7800-11,000; h1-3:30pm & 6:30-11pm Mon-Sat)
With just five tables and one couple cooking, serving and chatting up customers, this is as intimate as it gets. The owners moved here to get out of the Santiago fast lane, so you’d best follow their lead. Dishes such as mushroom ceviche, slow-roasted lamb or homemade ravioli are well worth the wait. Arrive early to claim a spot.
AluenICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Barros Arana 160; ice cream CH$2000; h2-7:30pm Tue-Sun)
Delicious flavors like tart natural yogurt, arroz con leche (rice pudding) and calafate berry are made on-site.
CreperiaFRENCH$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6657-8348; Bulnes 358; mains CH$4000-9000; h12:30-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat)
A bright nook with savory and sweet crepes, teas and coffee drinks. Factors like local produce and sought-after Nutella help you to break out of that meat-and-potato rut.
La Mesita GrandePIZZA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6141-1571; www.mesitagrande.cl; Arturo Prat 196; pizza CH$4000-9000; h12:30-3pm & 7-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 1-3pm & 7-11:30pm Sun)
Happy diners share one long, worn table for thin-crust pizza, quality pasta and organic salads.
El LivingCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.el-living.com; Arturo Prat 156; mains $4000-8000; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat Nov–mid-Apr; v)
El BoteCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-0045; Bulnes 380; set menu CH$4500; hnoon-11:30pm Mon-Sat)
A haven for Chilean comfort food, this unpretentious restaurant dishes out roast chicken, seafood casseroles and homemade soups in addition to more expensive game dishes featuring guanaco and venison. For dessert, go with the classic chestnuts in cream.
MasaySANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-5008; Bulnes 427; mains CH$3500-7000; h11am-midnight)
Nothing fancy, just good Chilean sandwiches on white buns and swift service.
La GuanacaPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-3245; Magallanes 167; mains CH$5000-16,000; v)
From crisp oven-fired pizzas to crepes and marinated mushroom appetizers, this homespun restaurant delivers warming and satisfying meals. Oversized salads, like the quinoa with roasted vegetables, are abundant and varied. There’s craft beer and several wines to choose from.
AfrigoniaFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-2877; Magallanes 247; mains CH$12,000-14,000; h1-3pm & 6:30-11pm)
Outstanding and wholly original, you won’t find Afro-Chilean cuisine on any NYC menu. This romantic gem serves up fragrant rice, fresh ceviche and mint roasted lamb prepared with succulent precision. Desserts also hit the mark. Make reservations.
La AldeaMEDITERRANEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6141-4027; www.aldearestaurant.cl; Barros Arana 132; mains CH$8000-16,000; h7-11pm Wed-Mon)
Chef Pato changes the offerings daily, but the focus is fresh and Mediterranean, with a nod to local ingredients. Think grilled clams, lamb tagine and quinoa dishes with an elegant presentation. Don’t skip the decadent tres leches (three milks) cake for dessert.
Asador PatagónicoPARRILLA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-3553; Arturo Prat 158; mains CH$7500-17,000; h12:30-3pm & 9-11:30pm Mon-Sat)
If trekking left you with a mastodon appetite, this upscale Argentine-style grill serves flame-seared lamb, steak and salads, as well as sweetbreads, alongside quality wines.
oSingular RestaurantCHILEAN$$$
(%61-272-2030; Puerto Bories; mains CH$12,000-18,000; h8am-11pm)
The perfect port in a storm, part supper club of yore, part modern bistro, with exquisite food and attentive service. Leather sofas and polished wood meet bare beams and stark views of the sound. Chef Hernan Vaso reinvigorates local ingredients: the freshest ceviche, tender lamb medallions and lovely salads come with original sides and fine Chilean wines. Vegetarian options excel.
oSantollaSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-3493; Magallanes 77; mains CH$15,000-22,000; h7-11pm Mon-Sat)
For worthwhile upscale seafood, look no further than this cozy container restaurant attended by the owner. Feast on gorgeous salads and local king crab prepared several ways; we liked it with merken (smoked chili), white wine and parsley. Nonseafood eaters have options such as steak or rabbit in black-truffle sauce.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oLast HopeDISTILLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7201-8585; www.lasthopedistillery.com; Esmeralda 882; h5pm-2am Wed-Sun)
Two Australians on vacation tossed in their day jobs to distill whiskey and gin at the end of the world. With bonhomie to spare, their bar caters to locals and travelers alike with a rotating menu of gorgeous cocktails. The signature drink is a calafate berry gin and tonic. It’s tiny and the overflow waits outside – wear your down jacket.
Base CampBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-241-4658; Baquedano 731; h6pm-2am)
Debut your park tall tales at this happening gringo hideout. With pub trivia nights, good pub grub and occasional live music.
BagualesMICROBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.cervezabaguales.cl; Bories 430; h6pm-2:30am Mon-Sat; W)
Climber friends started this microbrewery as a noble quest for quality suds and the beer (crafted on-site) does not disappoint. A 2nd-floor addition seeks to meet the heavy demand. The gringo-style bar food is just so-so.
3Entertainment
Centro Cultural Galpon PatagoniaCULTURAL CENTER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://galponpatagonia.cl; Pedro Montt 16; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun)
This cultural center and teahouse occupies a revamped 1920 warehouse with exposed beams and worn floorboards. Features art exhibits, theater, dance and music.
7Shopping
Wine & MarketWINE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %61-269-1138; www.wmpatagonia.cl; Magallanes 46; tasting CH$20,000; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)
Picnickers should pop in here for a range of tasty gourmet products from all over Chile, and a great wine and craft-beer selection. If your trip doesn’t take you to wine country, it’s well worth attending one of its daily tastings, with a sommelier presenting four classic wines.
OneacoSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Eberhard & Magallanes; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm & 4-8:30pm Sun)
Down jackets, hiking boots and mountain equipment from international brands are sold here. Ticket prices may be double those back home, but for those waiting on lost luggage it’s a lifesaver.
8Information
Most banks in town are equipped with ATMs. La Hermandad (Bulnes 692; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri) has decent exchange rates on cash and traveler’s checks.
The best bilingual portal for the region is www.torresdelpaine.cl.
Conaf (%61-241-1438; www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl; Baquedano 847; h8:30am-12:45pm & 2:30-5:30pm Mon-Fri) National parks service administrative office. Contact online to book Torres del Paine campgrounds under park administration; advance reservations are required.
Fantástico Sur (%61-261-4184; www.fantasticosur.com; Esmeralda 661; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri) Runs Refugios Torres, El Chileno and Los Cuernos in Torres del Paine and offers park tours, guiding and trek-planning services, including a popular self-guided option.
Hospital (%61-241-1582; Pinto 537) For emergency services.
Municipal Tourist Office (%61-261-4808; Bus Terminal; h8:30am-12:30pm & 2:30-6pm Tue-Sun) With region-wide lodgings listings.
Post Office (Eberhard 429; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)
Sernatur (%61-241-2125; infonatales@sernatur.cl; Costanera 19, Av Pedro Montt; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-6pm Sat & Sun) With useful city and regional maps and a second plaza location in high season.
Turismo Comapa (%61-241-4300; www.comapa.com; Bulnes 541; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Navimag ferry and airline bookings; also books packages in Torres del Paine.
Vertice Patagonia (%61-241-2742; www.verticepatagonia.com; Bulnes 100; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-noon Sat) Runs Refugios Grey, Dickson and Paine Grande, as well as Camping Perros, in Torres del Paine. Advance booking essential.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Puerto Natales’ small airport (Aeropuerto Teniente Julio Gallardo; Ruta 9) has irregular service to Punta Arenas, with connections beyond. LATAM offers direct flights to Santiago two times per week in high season only. Sky Airline (%toll-free 600-600-2828; www.skyairline.cl; Bulnes 682) offers service to Santiago with a stop in Puerto Montt.
BOAT
Navimag Ferry
For many travelers, a journey through Chile’s spectacular fjords aboard the Navimag Ferry (%61-241-1421, Rodoviario 61-241-1642; www.navimag.com; Costanera 308, Av Pedro Montt; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri) becomes a highlight of their trip. This four-day and three-night northbound voyage has become so popular it should be booked well in advance. To confirm when the ferry is due, contact Turismo Comapa or Navimag a couple of days before your estimated arrival date. There is a second office in the Rodoviario.
The ferry leaves Natales at 8am on Tuesdays and stops in Puerto Edén (or Glaciar Pía XI on southbound sailings) en route to Puerto Montt. It usually arrives in Puerto Montt on Friday at 8am, but schedules vary according to weather conditions and tides. Disembarking passengers must stay on board while cargo is transported; those embarking have to spend the night on board.
High season is November to March, mid-season is October and April and low season is May to September. Fares vary according to view, cabin size and private or shared bathroom, and include all meals (request vegetarian meals when booking) and interpretative talks. Bring water, snacks and drinks anyway. Per-person high-season fares range from US$450 for a bunk berth to US$2100 for a triple-A cabin; students and seniors receive a 10% to 15% discount. Check online for current schedules and rates.
Puerto Yungay Ferry
This new ferry option between Puerto Natales and Puerto Yungay links two areas of Patagonia with no road connections. Transbordador Austral Broom (TABSA) runs the 41-hour Puerto Yungay Ferry (Cruz Australis; %61-241-5966; www.tabsa.cl; Costanera s/n; passenger/bicycle CH$120,000/10,000) with a stop in Puerto Edén. Frequency varies month to month, but high season offers around 10 departures per month.
Travelers should note that under the current schedule the ferry usually arrives in Puerto Edén and Puerto Yungay (where there are no services) late at night, so reserve Puerto Edén hotels in advance and bring a headlamp to get around.
BUS
Buses arrive at the Rodoviario (Bus Terminal; %61-241-2554; Av España 1455; h6:30am-midnight) on the town outskirts, though companies also sell tickets at their downtown offices. Book at least a day ahead, especially for early-morning departures. Services are greatly reduced in the low season. Several lines go to Punta Arenas. For Argentina, try Turismo Zaahj (%61-241-2260; www.turismozaahj.co.cl; Arturo Prat 236/270), Cootra (%61-241-2785; Baquedano 244), Bus Sur (%61-242-6011; www.bus-sur.cl; Baquedano 668) or Buses Pacheco (%61-241-4800; www.busespacheco.com; Ramírez 224).
Torres del Paine–bound buses include Buses Fernandez (%61-241-1111; www.busesfernandez.com; cnr Esmeralda & Ramírez), Buses Gomez (%61-241-5700; www.busesgomez.com; Arturo Prat 234), Buses JBA (%61-241-0242; Arturo Prat 258) and Turismo Zaahj. Buses leave for Torres del Paine two to three times daily at around 7am, 8am and 2:30pm. If you are headed to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande in the low season, take the morning bus to meet the catamaran. Tickets may also be used for transfers within the park, so save your stub. Schedules change, so double-check them before heading out.
Companies and destinations include the following:
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS) |
|---|---|---|
| El Calafate | 17,000 | 5 |
| Punta Arenas | 7000 | 3 |
| Torres del Paine | 8000 | 2 |
| Ushuaia | 38,000 | 13 |
8Getting Around
Many hostels rent bikes. Car-rental rates are generally better in Punta Arenas. Try Emsa/Avis (%61-261-4388; Barros Arana 118; h9am-1pm & 2:30-7pm). Drivers should know that there are two routes into Torres del Paine; the more direct gravel one goes via Lago Toro.
Reliable Radio Taxi (%61-241-2805; cnr Arturo Prat & Bulnes) can even be counted on for after-hours deliveries.
Cueva del Milodón
In the 1890s, German pioneer Hermann Eberhard discovered the partial remains of an enormous ground sloth in a cave 24km northwest of Puerto Natales. The slow-moving, herbivorous milodón, nearly 4m tall, was supposedly the motivation behind Bruce Chatwin’s book In Patagonia. The 30m-high Cueva del Milodón (www.cuevadelmilodon.cl; adult/12yr & under CH$4000/500; h8am-7pm Oct-Apr, 8:30am-6pm May-Sep) pays homage to its former inhabitant with a life-size plastic replica of the animal. It’s not exactly tasteful, but still worth a stop to appreciate the grand setting and ruminate over its wild past.
An easy walk leads up to a lookout point. Torres del Paine buses pass the entrance, which is 8km from the cave proper. There are infrequent tours from Puerto Natales; alternatively, you can hitch or share a taxi colectivo (CH$20,000). Outside of high season, bus services are infrequent.
Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins
Virtually inaccessible, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins (MAP; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-bernardo-ohiggins) remains an elusive cache of glaciers. It can be entered only by boat. From Puerto Natales, full-day excursions (CH$90,000, lunch included) to the base of Glaciar Serrano are run by Turismo 21 de Mayo.
The same outfitter also offers Glacier Serrano tours that access Torres del Paine by boat. After the glacier visit, passengers transfer to a Zodiac (a motorized raft), stop for lunch at Estancia Balmaceda and continue up Río Serrano, arriving at the southern border of the park by 5pm. The same tour can be done leaving the park but may require camping near Río Serrano to catch the Zodiac at 9am.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
Soaring almost vertically above the Patagonian steppe, the granite pillars of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine; www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl; 3-day admission high/low season CH$21,000/11,000) dominate the landscape of South America’s finest national park. Part of Unesco’s Biosphere Reserve system since 1978, this 1810-sq-km park is, however, much more than its one greatest hit. Its diversity of landscapes range from teal and azure lakes to emerald forests, roaring rivers and that one big, radiant blue glacier. Guanacos roam the vast open steppe while Andean condors soar alongside looming peaks.
Forget roughing it. You can hike the whole ‘W’ while sleeping in beds, eating hot meals, taking showers and toasting your day with a pisco sour. Yet it isn’t fully tamed. Weather can present four seasons in a day, with sudden rainstorms and knock-down gusts like a hearty Patagonian handshake.
The park’s wild popularity has been taxing on infrastructure, an issue now being addressed by a strict reservations system for overnighters.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
1Sights
4Sleeping
1Sights
The park is home to flocks of ostrich-like rhea (known locally as the ñandú), Andean condor, flamingo and many other bird species. Its star success in conservation is undoubtedly the guanaco, which grazes the open steppes where pumas cannot approach undetected. After more than a decade of effective protection from poachers, these large, growing herds don’t even flinch when humans or vehicles approach. The puma population is also growing, and huemul (an endangered Andean deer) have been spotted in Valle Francés.
2Activities
Tour operators in Puerto Natales offer guided treks, which include all meals and accommodations at refugios (rustic shelters) or hotels. Per person rates decrease significantly in groups.
Guided day trips on minibuses from Puerto Natales are possible, but permit only a glimpse of what the park has to offer.
Hiking
Torres del Paine’s 2800m granite peaks inspire a mass pilgrimage of hikers from around the world. Most go for the Paine Circuit MAP or the ‘W’ MAP to soak in these classic panoramas. The Paine Circuit (the ‘W’ plus the backside of the peaks) requires seven to nine days, while the ‘W’ (named for the rough approximation to the letter that it traces out on the map) takes four to five. Add another day or two for transportation connections.
Trekkers either start from Laguna Amarga or take the catamaran from Pudeto to Lago Pehoé and start from there; hiking roughly southwest to northeast along the ‘W’ presents more views of the black sedimentary peaks known as Los Cuernos (2200m to 2600m).
For trekkers who arrive in the shoulder season, be aware of early-season and foul-weather route closures. Trekking alone, especially on the backside of the circuit, is unadvisable, and may be regulated by Conaf (Corporación Nacional Forestal; National Forest Corporation).
In a move to emphasize safety in the park, Conaf requires all visitors to sign a contract upon entering. The document details park regulations and explains the penalties for breaking them.
The ‘W’
Hiking west to east provides superior views of Los Cuernos, especially between Lago Pehoé and Valle Francés. Most hikers take the catamaran across Lago Pehoé and head to Mountain Lodge Paine Grande. Going in this direction, the hike is roughly 71km in total. It’s also possible to take a cruise from Hotel Lago Grey to Refugio Grey to avoid some backtracking.
The following distances are one way:
Guardería Paine Grande to Refugio Lago Grey (10km, four hours one way from Guardería Paine Grande) This relatively easy trail from Lago Pehoé has a few challenging uphills and camping and refugios at both ends. The glacier lookout is another half-hour’s hike beyond. Still in recovery, this route burned in 2011. Return via the same route.
Guardería Paine Grande to Valle Francés (13km, five hours) From Mountain Lodge Paine Grande, the ferry dock is ahead to the right. The spectacular Cuernos loom overhead on the left, and Lago Skottsberg is passed on the right. Ascend beyond it to Valle Francés, reaching a hanging bridge before Campamento Británico.
Valle Francés to Los Cuernos/Lago Pehoé (10km, five hours) In clear weather, this hike is the most beautiful stretch between 3050m Cerro Paine Grande to the west and the lower but still spectacular Torres del Paine and Los Cuernos to the east, with glaciers hugging the trail. Camp at Italiano and at Británico, right in the heart of the valley, or at the valley entrance at Camping Francés.
Los Cuernos to Refugio Las Torres (12km, seven hours) Hikers should keep to the lower trail as many get lost on the upper trail (unmarked on maps). There’s a hotel, camping and a refugio. Summer winds can be fierce.
Refugio Las Torres to Mirador Las Torres (8km, four hours) A moderate hike up Río Ascencio to a treeless tarn beneath the eastern face of the Torres del Paine for the closest view of the towers. The last hour follows a scree field of huge boulders (covered with knee- and waist-high snow in winter). There are camping and refugios at Las Torres and Chileno. Return via the same route.
Guardería Paine Grande to Administración (16km, five hours) Only open between May 1 and September 30, this trail is an alternative to the Pudeto ferry. It goes around Lago Pehoé, then through extensive grassland along Río Grey. Mountain Lodge Paine Grande can radio in and make sure that you can catch a bus from the Administración back to Puerto Natales. You can also enter the ‘W’ this way to hike it east to west.
The Paine Circuit
For solitude, stellar views and bragging rights over your compadres doing the ‘W,’ this longer trek is the way to go. This loop takes in the ‘W,’ plus the backside between Refugio Grey and Refugio Las Torres; the total distance is roughly 112km. The landscape is desolate yet beautiful. Paso John Gardner (1214m; closed seasonally) is the most extreme part of the trek, sometimes offering knee-deep mud and snow.
Conaf prefers that hikers do the route counterclockwise. Enter the park (by bus) at Laguna Amarga and finish the circuit in Valle Francés and Los Cuernos, hiking out to Refugio Las Torres bus stop. The Paine Circuit is closed during winter.
Distances are one way:
Laguna Amarga to Campamento Serón (15km, four to five hours) A gentle start to the trek, with fairly open terrain. You can also start from Refugio Las Torres.
Campamento Serón to Campamento Lago Dickson (MAP; 19km, six hours) As the trail wraps around Lago Paine, winds can get fierce and the trails vague; stay along the trail furthest away from the lake.
Campamento Dickson to Campamento Los Perros (9km, around 4½ hours) A relatively easy but windy stretch.
Campamento Los Perros to Campamento Paso (MAP; 12km, four hours) This route has plenty of mud and sometimes snow; its physical and psychological high point is Paso John Gardner (1241m). Don’t be confused by what appears to be a campsite right after crossing the pass; keep going until you see a shack.
Campamento Paso to Refugio Lago Grey (MAP; 10km, two hours going south) This steep downhill section offers great glacier views. Trekking poles can save your knees here. The route has three hanging bridges (formerly staircases) over narrow gullies.
Other Overnight Hikes
From Guardería Lago Grey, a four-hour trail follows Río Pingo to Conaf’s Camping Zapata, from where hikes (about another 1½ to two hours) continue to a lookout with impressive views of Glaciar Zapata and Lago Pingo. Because of ongoing studies of wildlife and fossil beds, hiking in this pristine area is authorized only for groups traveling with a Conaf-approved guide.
From Guardería Laguna Amarga a four-hour hike leads to Laguna Azul. The camping area on the northeastern shore closed after a wildfire; check with Conaf about its current status. After another two-hour hike north the trail reaches Lago Paine. Accessibility to meet up with the Paine Circuit trail near the other side of the lake is made impossible by the river.
From the Administración, the three-hour hike to Hostería Pehoé is an easy, mainly flat trail with great views. For more solitude and birdwatching, a four-hour hike branches east after crossing Río Paine, zigzags up the skirt of the Sierra del Toro to access a string of lakes, ending with Laguna Verde. There is no camping, but those inclined could splurge for a night at Hostería Mirador del Payne.
Day Hikes
Walk from Guardería Pudeto, on the main park highway, to Salto Grande, a powerful waterfall between Lago Nordenskjöld and Lago Pehoé. Another easy hour’s walk leads to Mirador Nordenskjöld, an overlook with superb views of the lake and mountains.
For a more challenging day hike with tranquility and gorgeous scenery, try the four-hour trek to Lago Paine; its northern shore is only accessible from Laguna Azul.
Ice Trekking
A fun walk through a sculpted landscape of ice, and you don’t need experience to go. Antares’ Bigfoot Patagonia (%61-241-4611; www.bigfootpatagonia.com; kayaking CH$66,000, ice hike CH$105,000; hOct-Apr) is the sole company with a park concession for ice hikes on Glacier Grey, using the Conaf house (former Refugio Grey) as a starting point. The five-hour excursion is available from October to April, in high season three times per day.
Kayaking, Cruises & Boating
Bigfoot Patagonia leads 2½-hour tours of the iceberg-strewn Lago Grey several times daily in summer; this is a great way to get up close to glaciers. A more demanding five-hour tour (CH$160,000) starts at Río Pingo to paddle the river toward Glacier Grey, surrounded by icebergs, ending at Río Serrano.
From October through April, catamaran Grey III does Navegación Glaciar Grey (MAP; Glacier Grey Cruise; %61-271-2100; www.lagogrey.com; adult/child round-trip CH$75,000/37,500, 1 way CH$65,000; hOct-Apr), a three-hour cruise to take in the massive glacier up close, with a stop to let hikers on and off. In high season there are four daily departures; the last two do glacier viewing before stopping at the trail for passengers.
Family-oriented floating trips that take rafts down the mild Río Serrano are run by Fantástico Sur.
Horseback Riding
Due to property divisions within the park, horses cannot cross between the western sections (Lagos Grey and Pehoé, Río Serrano) and the private eastern sector known as Reserva Cerro Paine (Camping Francés is the approximate cutoff).
Baqueano Zamora runs excursions to Laguna Azul, Valle Francés, Dickson glacier and more remote locations, with one-day and multiday options.
Hotel Las Torres offers full-day horseback-riding trips around Lago Nordenskjöld and beyond.
Mountain Biking
Trails authorized for mountain biking include Laguna Azul and Cañon de Perros. Check with outfitters in Puerto Natales about this new option.
TREKKING LIGHTLY
Some 200,000 tourists visit Torres del Paine each year, and with the park headlining adventure lists everywhere, its popularity will only grow. And there is sure to be an impact. Already, in the high season of January and February, trails have traffic jams and campgrounds resemble Woodstock. In that peace-and-love spirit, we offer some trip tips:
A Don’t drink bottled water, since the bottles become a recycling nightmare (trash is taken out on pack horses, if you can imagine). Instead opt to bring a purifier or use tablets.
A Pack out all garbage, as little scavengers, mainly mice, love to make merry in campgrounds.
A Respect the official camp zones and hike only in designated areas.
A Don’t make campfires – they’re illegal.
A Be extremely mindful of fire from cigarettes, camp stoves, lighters etc. In 2005 and 2011, fires attributed to backpackers destroyed large parts of the park.
A Stay friendly. Park regulars have noted that as traffic increases the community feeling diminishes. But it doesn’t have to be that way. So say hi to your fellow hikers and let the fleet-footed ones pass.
To help you can volunteer with trail maintenance, biological studies or an animal census with nonprofit AMA Torres del Paine (www.amatorresdelpaine.org). Alternatively, make donations through the Torres del Paine Legacy Fund (https://supporttdp.org), which aids park reforestation and recycling in Puerto Natales, organized by the nonprofit Sustainable Travel.
TTours
Patagonia BagualHIKING
(%cell 9-5325-1266; http://patagoniabagual.cl; Laguna Azul; CH$135,000)
This original tour takes hikers into the most pristine part of Torres del Paine to hike cross country to observe wild horses. Nothing about it is a canned experience. Guides are experienced and multilingual. Includes 4WD transfer but park entrance is not included.
AVOID THE MULTITUDES
A Most hikers go up to the Torres around 8am and down at 4pm. With full summer light, you can go against traffic by starting a couple of hours earlier or later; inquire about the times of sunset and sunrise at your refugio (rustic shelter) or guardaparques (ranger station).
A Hike the less-crowded Full Circuit.
A Join a multiday trip kayaking Río Serrano or horseback riding; you’ll get a completely different perspective and incredible views.
A Hike in the shoulder season but prepare for brisk weather. March can be excellent in the park. Winter can be stunning, though extra skills and gear are required.
A Be conscientious and tread lightly – you are among hundreds of thousands of yearly guests.
4Sleeping
Regulations implemented in 2017 require hikers doing the Circuit or the ‘W’ to reserve all lodgings ahead, both refugios and camping (yes, even free campsites). This requires some tedious logistics work, as there’s no central booking website. Visitors (or travel agencies) book with the two park concession companies and Conaf. Reservations require passport information that park staff may scan and verify.
Phone numbers listed are for Puerto Natales offices.
Refugios & Domos
If you are hiking the ‘W’ or the Paine Circuit, you will be staying in refugios, domos (‘domes,’ also known as yurts) or campsites along the way. It is essential to reserve your spot and specify vegetarian meals in advance. Try to do this as soon as you book your trip.
Refugio rooms have four to eight bunk beds each, kitchen privileges (for lodgers and during specific hours only), hot showers and meals. To prevent bedbugs, lodgings generally include bedding or sleeping bags. Meals are extra. Should a refugio be overbooked, staff provide all necessary camping equipment. Most refugios close by the end of April. Domos are either cloth or plastic permanent camp structures with bunks or cots. Their operating season may be shorter.
Guests should use resources wisely and conserve water and electricity. There are no plugs in rooms, so bring a solar charger or extra batteries to charge electronics.
Accommodations require photo ID (ie a passport) upon check-in. Photocopy your tourist card and passport for all lodgings in advance to expedite check-in. Staff can radio ahead to confirm your next reservation. Given the huge volume of trekkers, snags are inevitable, so practice your Zen composure.
Wireless internet connections, where available, usually cost extra.
Refugio GreyHUT$
(MAP; %61-241-2742; www.verticepatagonia.cl; dm from US$32, incl full board US$82; hyear-round)
Inland from the lake, this deluxe trekkers’ lodge features a decked-out living area with leather sofas and bar, a restaurant-grade kitchen and snug bunk rooms that house 60, with plenty of room for backpacks. There’s also a general store, and covered cooking space for campers.
It runs in winter without meal service (May to September). You can also arrive here via catamaran Grey III. Advance reservations required.
Mountain Lodge Paine GrandeCABIN$
(MAP; %61-241-2742; www.verticepatagonia.cl; dm from US$50, incl full board US$100; W)
Though gangly, it’s nicer than most dorms, with sublime Los Cuernos views in all rooms. Its year-round presence is a godsend to cold, wet winter hikers, though meals are not available in winter (May to September). There’s on-site camping, a kiosk with basic kitchen provisions and a more deluxe version of camping in domes.
Between Lago Grey and Valle Francés, it’s a day hike from either and also accessible by ferry across Lago Pehoé. Advance reservations required.
Refugio Lago DicksonCABIN$
(MAP; %61-241-2742; dm from US$32, incl full board US$82; hNov-Mar)
One of the oldest refugios and smallest, with 30 beds, in a stunning setting on the Paine circuit, near Glaciar Dickson. Advance reservations required.
Refugio Las TorresLODGE$$
(MAP; %61-261-4184; www.fantasticosur.com; dm US$120, incl full board US$200; hyear-round; W)
An ample, attractive base camp with 60 beds and the added feature of a comfortable lounge, restaurant and bar. In high season a nearby older building is put into use to handle the overflow, at discounted rates. Advance reservations required.
Nash Serrano LodgeLODGE$$
(MAP; %61-241-4611; www.nashpatagonia.com; Pueblito Río Serrano; dm/s/tw incl breakfast US$100/210/240)
This five-bedroom mountain refuge has comfortable rooms with central heating and provides sleeping bags for bedding. Lunch and dinner are also available. It’s run by Bigfoot Patagonia and also used for longer kayak expeditions.
Refugio ChilenoCABIN$$
(MAP; %61-261-4184; www.fantasticosur.com; dm incl full board US$170; hOct-Apr) S
Nearest to the fabled towers, Chileno is one of the smallest refugios, with 32 beds and a small provisions kiosk. It’s run on wind energy and toilets use composting biofilters. Advance reservations required.
oPatagonia CampYURT$$$
(%in Puerto Natales 61-241-5149; www.patagoniacamp.com; d all-inclusive incl tours & transfers 3 nights US$3800; hSep–mid-May; W) S
This deluxe camp delivers full wilderness immersion far away from the park crowds. Raised boardwalks connect a series of spacious and comfortable yurts overlooking Lago del Toro. It’s tucked into a 40,500-hectare private estancia with on-site kayaking, stand-up paddling, hiking and fly-fishing. Both the service and the dining are top notch. Eco credentials include an independent water-treatment plant.
It’s at Km74 on the unpaved road to the park that passes Cueva del Milodón.
Refugio Los CuernosCABIN$$$
(MAP; %61-261-4184; www.fantasticosur.com; dm incl full board US$170, 2-person cabins US$310, incl full board $470; hyear-round)
This mid-’W’ location tends to bottleneck with hikers going in either direction. But with eight beds per room, this small lodge is more than cozy. Separate showers and bathrooms for campers relieve some of the stress. For a deluxe option, cabins with shared bathroom offer privacy, with access to a piping-hot wooden hot tub. Advance reservations required.
EcocampDOME$$$
(MAP; %in Santiago 2-2923-5950; www.ecocamp.travel; 5-day ‘W’ hiking package US$2239)
Part of a package tour, these domes range from basic, with shared composting bathrooms, to deluxe versions with heat, private bathroom and canopied beds. They’re linked by boardwalks to dining, bar and yoga areas with a cozy, social atmosphere. Guided activities include hiking, fly-fishing and kayaking.
Domos El FrancésDOME$$$
(MAP; %61-261-4184; www.fantasticosur.com; dm US$130, incl full board US$210; hOct-Apr)
Newish domes with dining hall located at Camping Francés, a 40-minute walk from Los Cuernos. Each has four bunks, central heating and individual bathrooms with showers.
Advance reservations required.
Camping
The park has both fee camping, with some services, and free camping. Conaf allows visitors to stay just one night in free campsites. According to new regulations, all must be reserved in advance or hikers will not be permitted to hike sections of the trail that are not day hikes.
Refugios and some domos rent equipment – tent (US$25 per night), sleeping bag (US$17) and mat/pad (US$7) – but quality may be inferior to your own gear. Small kiosks sell expensive pasta, soup packets and butane gas, and cooking shelters (at some campgrounds) prove useful in foul weather.
Campgrounds generally operate from mid-October to mid-March, though those on the backside of the Paine Circuit may not open until November due to harsher weather. The decision is made by Conaf.
For bookings, Vertice Patagonia (www.verticepatagonia.com) looks after Camping Paine Grande, Camping Grey, Campamento Lago Dickson, Campamento Los Perros and Paine Grande. Fantástico Sur (www.fantasticosur.com) owns Camping Las Torres, Camping Chileno, Camping Francés, Camping Los Cuernos and Campamento Serón.
Sites on the trekking routes which are administered by Conaf (www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl) are free but very basic. They do not rent equipment or offer showers. These include: Campamento Británico, Campamento Italiano, Campamento Paso, Campamento Torres and Camping Guardas. Other private campgrounds include Camping Pehoé and Camping Río Serrano.
Rodents lurk around campsites, so don’t leave food in packs or in tents – hang it from a tree instead.
Hotels & Lodges
When choosing lodgings, pay particular attention to location. Lodgings that adjoin the ‘W’ offer more independence and flexibility for hikers. Most offer multiday packages.
Cheaper hotels occupy the sector of Pueblito Río Serrano, just outside the park on the gravel road from Puerto Natales. Banked on the S-curves of Río Serrano, there are stunning views of the entire Paine massif, though reaching the principal trailheads requires transportation.
oTierra PatagoniaLODGE$$$
(MAP; %in Santiago 2207-8861; www.tierrapatagonia.com; d 3 nights incl full board & transfers from US$5267; hOct-May; iWs)
Sculpted into the sprawling steppe, this sleek luxury lodge is nothing if not inviting, with a lively living room and circular bar focused on a grand fire pit and a beautiful oversize artist’s rendition of a park map. Large, understated rooms enjoy panoramas of the Paine massif. All-inclusive rates include airport transfer, daily excursions, use of spa, meals and drinks.
Located on Cerro Guido estancia, the hotel’s ranch-focused activities are a strong asset. It’s on Lago Sarmiento, just outside the national park about 20km from Laguna Amarga.
oAwasiLODGE$$$
(MAP; %in Santiago 2233-9641; www.awasipatagonia.com; 3-nights all-inclusive per person US$3200; W)
Awasi dazzles with its modern, understated style and a remote location that drinks in the wild surroundings. Villas with individual hot tubs surround a main lodge offering fine dining, lounge areas and wi-fi. Each lodging is connected by radio. It’s sheepskin chic and well attended, with quality individually tailored tours included. Rates are based on double occupancy.
It’s located outside the park, on the northeast side of Lago Sarmiento in the private reserve of Tercera Barranca. Travel time might require a little patience: it’s a good distance by gravel road from the main attractions, though transfers are provided.
ExploraHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %in Santiago 2-2395-2800; www.explora.com; d 3 nights incl full board & transfers from US$5736; is)
These upscale digs sit perched above the Salto Chico waterfall at the outlet of Lago Pehoé. Views of the entire Paine massif pour forth from every centimeter of the hotel. The spa features a heated lap pool, a sauna and an open-air Jacuzzi. Rates include airport transfers, full gourmet meals and a wide variety of excursions led by young, affable, bilingual guides.
Hotel Lago GreyHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %61-271-2100; www.lagogrey.cl; booking address Lautaro Navarro 1061, Punta Arenas; s/d incl breakfast from US$305/360; iW)
Open year-round, this tasteful hotel has snug white cottages linked by raised boardwalks. Deluxe rooms are lovely, featuring lake views and sleek modern style. The cafe (open to the public) overlooks the grandeur. Also offers guided excursions and transfers within the park. Glacier cruises stop on the other side of Lago Grey to pick up and drop off hikers.
Hotel Las TorresHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %61-261-7450; www.lastorres.com; booking address Magallanes 960, Punta Arenas; s/d incl breakfast from US$382/437; hJul-May; W) S
A hospitable and well-run hotel with international standards, a spa with Jacuzzi and good guided excursions. Most noteworthy, the hotel donates a portion of fees to nonprofit park-based environmental group AMA. The buffet serves organic vegetables from the greenhouse and organic meat raised on nearby ranches. High-season rates reflect the demand for sleeping trailside.
Hostería Mirador del PayneINN$$$
(MAP; %61-222-8712; www.miradordelpayne.cl; Laguna Verde; s/d/tr US$200/245/265)
On the Estancia El Lazo in the seldom-seen Laguna Verde sector, this comfortable inn is known for its serenity, proximity to spectacular viewpoints and top-rate service – but not for easy access to the most popular trails. Activities include birdwatching, horseback riding and sport fishing. Call to arrange a ride from the road junction.
Hostería PehoéHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %61-272-2853; www.hosteriapehoe.cl; s/d/tr incl breakfast from US$190/213/276)
On the far side of Lago Pehoé and linked to the mainland by a long footbridge. Pehoé enjoys five-star panoramas of Los Cuernos and Paine Grande, while rooms are adequate but dated. Open to the public, the restaurant gets consistently poor marks.
Hostería Lago del ToroINN$$$
(MAP; %cell 9-9678-9375; www.lagodeltoro.com; Pueblito Río Serrano; d incl breakfast US$165; iW)
Sandwiched between two behemoth hotels, this more intimate charmer has fresh carpeted rooms and a warm fire to greet guests. The house, with a corrugated-iron face, resembles an old-fashioned inn, with macramé lace decor and dense wood furniture.
Hotel Cabañas del PaineCABIN$$$
(MAP; %61-273-0177; www.hoteldelpaine.cl; Pueblito Río Serrano; d incl breakfast US$200)
On the banks of the Río Serrano, these cabin-style rooms stand apart as tasteful and well integrated into the landscape with great views. There’s a bar and restaurant and bicycle rentals are available. With shuttle service.
8Information
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is open year-round, subject to your ability to get there. Entry is good for three days. If you plan to sleep outside the park during your visit, collect an exit stamp so you can return on the same ticket.
Transportation connections are less frequent in the low season, and lodging and services are more limited. Yet the months of November and March are some of the best times for trekking, with fewer crowds and windy conditions usually abating in March. Check the opening dates of all the services you’ll require in advance (they change based on the weather in any given year). The website www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl also has useful info.
The main entrance where fees are collected is Portería Sarmiento (hdaylight hours). Conaf Centro de Visitantes (h9am-8pm Dec-Feb), located 37km from Portería Sarmiento, has good information on park ecology and trail status. Administración (%61-236-0496; Villa Monzino; h8:30am-8pm) is also here. There is a small cafeteria at Pudeto and another at the southern tip of Lago Grey. Portería & Guardería Río Serrano is located at the access point to Río Serrano.
Erratic Rock holds an excellent information session every day at 3pm at its Puerto Natales Base Camp location. Fantástico Sur also provides information sessions at 10am and 3pm daily in its Puerto Natales office.
Trekking maps are widely available in Puerto Natales.
8Getting There & Away
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is 112km north of Puerto Natales. An unpaved alternative road from Puerto Natales to the Administración provides a shorter, more direct southern approach via Pueblito Río Serrano.
Argentina is nearby, but there is no direct transportation from the park. About 40km south of the main park entrance, the seasonal border crossing of Cancha Carrera accesses Argentina at Cerro Castillo. Going to El Calafate from the park on the same day requires joining a tour or careful advance planning, since there is no direct service. Your best bet is to return to Puerto Natales.
8Getting Around
Shuttles (CH$4000) within the park drop off and pick up passengers at Laguna Amarga, at the catamaran launch at Pudeto, and at Administración.
Catamaran Hielos Patagónicos (%61-241-1133; www.hipsur.com; Pudeto; 1-way/round-trip CH$18,000/28,000; hSep-Apr) connects Pudeto with Mountain Lodge Paine Grande.
Hikers can take advantage of Navegación Glaciar Grey, a cruise that links Refugio Grey to Hotel Lago Grey with glacier viewing.
TORRES IN WINTER
Snowbound landscapes and no crowds make winter an appealing time for hearty travelers to visit the park. Thanks to ever-increasing summer demand, the park administration has eased winter visitation with expanded services and routes available. However, visiting in winter has its own challenges. Visitors should come prepared with high-quality winter trekking gear. Trekking poles and even slip-on crampons are useful.
The park also requires hikers to use approved guides for all walks between May 1 and August 1. Visitors must enter the park accompanied by guides in this period. For a day hike, guides charge around CH$80,000 and can accompany up to six guests. Guides can be contracted from agencies in Puerto Natales, or recommended by park concessionaires, hotels or Conaf. For the latest closures or advisories, check out www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl.