Directory A–Z

Accommodations

Chile has accommodations to suit every budget. Room rates may be the same for single or double occupancy. There may be a price difference between a double with two beds and one master bed (with the shared bed more expensive). Wi-fi is common.

Hotels From one-star austerity to five-star luxury with a wide range in pricing.

B&Bs Common in cities and tourist destinations, usually midrange.

Hospedajes Homey accommodations, sometimes with private bathrooms.

Cabañas In vacation areas, a good option for groups, usually with kitchen.

Hostels Budget dormitories aimed at younger travelers.

Camping Widely available in summer, sometimes charge group rates.

PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to high-season rates for rooms with breakfast and a private bathroom.

$ less than CH$50,000

$$ CH$50,000–CH$78,000

$$$ more than CH$78,000

Cabins

Excellent value for small groups or families, Chile’s cabañas are common in resort towns and national-park areas, and are integrated into some campgrounds. Most come with a private bathroom and fully equipped kitchen (without free breakfast). Resort areas cram cabañas into small lots, so if you’re looking for privacy, check the details when booking.

Camping

Chile has a developed camping culture, though it’s more of a sleepless, boozy sing-along atmosphere than a back-to-nature escape. Most organized campgrounds are family-oriented with large sites, full bathrooms and laundry, fire pits, a restaurant or snack bar and a grill for the essential asado. Many are costly because they charge a five-person minimum. Try requesting per person rates. Remote areas have free camping, often without potable water or sanitary facilities.

Wild camping may be possible, though police are cracking down on it in the north. In rural areas, ask landowners if you can stay. Never light a fire without permission and use an established fire ring. Camping equipment is widely available, but international brands have a significant markup.

Santiago’s Sernatur (www.chile.travel) has a free pamphlet listing campsites throughout Chile. Another website with listings is www.solocampings.com.

Guesthouses & Rural Homestays

For more local culture, stay at a casa de familia (guesthouse). Particularly in the south, where tourism is less formal, it’s common for families and rural farms to open up their homes. Guests do not always have kitchen privileges, but usually can pay fair prices for abundant meals or laundry service. Tourist offices maintain lists of such accommodations.

Organized networks are most notably in Chiloé and Lago Ranco, around Pucón and in Patagonia. For Patagonia, check out Coyhaique’s Casa del Turismo Rural (MAP; %cell 9-7954-4794; Plaza de Armas; h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat). For countrywide options, visit Turismo Rural (www.turismoruralchile.cl) or inquire at tourist offices.

Hospedajes

Both hospedajes and residenciales (budget options) offer homey, simple accommodations, usually with foam-mattress beds, hard pillows, clean sheets and blankets. Bathrooms and shower facilities are often shared, but a few will have rooms with a private bathroom. You may have to ask staff to turn on the calefón (hot-water heater) before taking a shower. Breakfast is usually coffee and rolls.

Hostels

Dorm-style lodgings usually set aside a few more expensive doubles for couples who want a social atmosphere but greater creature comforts. Look for pamphlets for Backpackers Chile (www.backpackerschile.com), which has many European-run listings and good standards. Most places don’t insist on a Hostelling International (HI) card, but charge a bit more for nonmembers. The local affiliate of HI is Asociación Chilena de Albergues Turísticos Juveniles (MAP; %2-2577-1200; www.hostelling.cl; Av Hernando de Aguirre 201, Oficina 401, Providencia; mTobalaba). One-year membership cards are available at the head office for CH$14,000.

Hotels

Hotels provide a room with private bathroom, a telephone and cable or satellite TV. Breakfast is always served, even if basic, and often included. Reservations are necessary if you’ll be arriving at an awkward hour, during the summer high season or over a holiday weekend.

In South America the term ‘motel’ is a euphemism for a ‘love hotel,’ some with by-the-hour rates.

Refugios

Within some national parks, Conaf or an assigned concessionaire maintain refugios (rustic shelters) for hikers and trekkers. Many lack upkeep due to Conaf’s limited budget. Private reserves sometimes have refugios for hut-to-hut trekking.

Rental Accommodations

For long-term rentals in Santiago, check listings in Sunday’s El Mercurio (www.elmercurio.cl), Santiago Craigslist (http://santiago.en.craigslist.org) or the weekly classified listing El Rastro (www.elrastro.cl). In vacation areas such as Viña del Mar, La Serena, Villarrica or Puerto Varas, people line main roads in summer to offer housing. You can also check tourist offices, bulletin boards outside grocery stores or local papers.

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodations reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

Peak Seasons

In tourist destinations, prices may double during the height of high season (late December through February), and extra-high rates are charged at Christmas, New Year and Easter week. If you want to ask about discounts or cheaper rooms, do so at the reservation phase. Bargaining for better rates once you have arrived is not common and frowned upon.

Taxes

At many midrange and top-end hotels, payment in US dollars (either cash or credit) legally sidesteps the crippling 19% IVA (impuesto de valor agregado; value-added tax). If there is any question as to whether IVA is included in the rates, clarify before paying. A hotel may not offer the discount without your prodding. In theory, the discount is strictly for those paying in dollars or with a credit card and may require showing a foreign passport.

Addresses

Names of streets, plazas and other features are often unwieldy, and usually appear abbreviated on maps. So Avenida Libertador General Bernardo O’Higgins might appear on a map as Avenida B O’Higgins, just O’Higgins or even by a colloquial alternative (Alameda). The common address costanera denotes a coastal road.

Some addresses include the expression local (locale) followed by a number. Local means it’s one of several offices at the same street address. Street numbers may begin with a zero, eg Bosque Norte 084. This confusing practice usually happens when an older street is extended in the opposite direction, beyond the original number 1.

The abbreviation ‘s/n’ following a street address stands for sin número (without number) and indicates that the address has no specific street number.

Customs Regulations

Check Chilean customs (www.aduana.cl) for what and how much you can take in and out of the country.

ANo restrictions on import and export of local and foreign currency. Duty-free allowances include purchases of up to US$500.

AInspections are usually routine, although some travelers have had more thorough examinations. Travelers leaving the duty-free Regións I and XII are subject to internal customs inspections.

AWhen entering the country, check your bags for food. There are heavy fines for fruit, dairy, spices, nuts, meat and organic products. SAG (Servicio Agrícola-Ganadero; Agriculture and Livestock Service) checks bags and levies fines to prevent the spread of diseases and pests that might threaten Chile’s fruit exports.

AX-ray machines are used at major international border crossings, such as Los Libertadores (the crossing from Mendoza, Argentina) and Pajaritos (the crossing from Bariloche, Argentina).

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Australia (%2-2550-3500; www.chile.embassy.gov.au; Isidora Goyenechea 3621, 12th fl, Barrio El Golf; h8:30am-noon Mon-Fri; mEl Golf)

Brazil (%2-2820-5800; http://cgsantiago.itamaraty.gov.br/pt-br; Los Militares 6191, Las Condes; h9:30am-1pm Mon-Fri; mManquehue)

Canada (%2-2652-3800; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/chile-chili; Nueva Tajamar 481, 12th fl, Barrio El Golf; h8:30am-12:30pm & 1:30-5:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-1pm Fri; mTobalaba)

France (%2-2470-8000; https://cl.ambafrance.org; Av Condell 65, Providencia; h9am-noon Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri; mSalvador)

Germany (%2-2463-2500; www.santiago.diplo.de; Las Hualtatas 5677, Vitacura; h9am-noon Tue-Fri)

Spain (%61-224-3563; Av Presidente Ibañez del Campo 05730, Punta Arenas; hby appointment)

USA (%2-2330-3000; https://cl.usembassy.gov; Av Andrés Bello 2800, Las Condes; mTobalaba)

Food

All restaurants are nonsmoking, unless there is a separate, enclosed area designated for smokers.

Meals

In general, Chilean food is hearty and traditional. Soups, meat and potatoes, and wonderful casseroles, such as pastel de choclo (maize casserole) and chupe de jaiva (crab casserole), are staples. Most coastal towns have a mercado de mariscos (seafood market) where you can buy fresh fish or eat at small kitchens. If you like spice, seek out the Mapuche merkén (spice-smoked chili powder) or ají Chileno, an OK and moderately hot sauce sometimes found in restaurants.

Breakfast usually consists of white rolls with butter and jam, tea and instant coffee. Whole-bean coffee is referred to as café en grano, available at some cafes and lodgings.

At home, people often eat light meals in the evening, with a teatime of bread, tea, cheese and ham. Known as onces (elevenses), afternoon tea is popular in the south, where German influence adds küchen (sweet, German-style cakes).

Drinks

Wine may have center stage, but there is plenty more to try. Pisco, a grape brandy, is Chile’s national alcohol, grown in the dry soil of the north. Pisco sours are a popular start to cocktail hours, and consist of pisco, sugar and fresh limon de pica. Students prefer piscolas, mixing the alcohol with Coke or other soft drinks.

Draft beer is known as schop. Microbrews and regional artisan brewing are popular, particularly in the south where German influence remains. Try brews made by Szot, Kross and Spoh.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard main course.

$ less than CH$7000

$$ CH$7000–CH$12,000

$$$ more than CH$12,000

Gay & Lesbian Travelers

Chile is a very conservative, Catholic-minded country yet strides in tolerance are being made. Chile legalized civil unions for same sex couples in January 2015. Then President Michelle Bachelet shifted the national conversation to the left in her second term, sending a bill to congress to legalize same sex marriage, although progress on this issue may stall under new President Sebastián Piñera.

Many of the hipper urban bars and clubs also have an active gay scene. In Santiago, the gay scene is surprisingly good, with nightlife centering on Barrio Bellavista. Movil H (Movement for the Integration and Liberation of Homosexuals; www.movilh.cl) advocates for gay rights and organizes the Gay Pride parade every June, with thousands of marchers. For listings in English, try VamosGay (www.vamosgay.com). Guia Gay Chile (www.guiagay.cl) lists some Santiago clubs.

Health

Travelers who follow basic, common-sense precautions should have few problems traveling in Chile. Chile requires no special vaccines, but travelers should be up to date with routine shots. In temperate South America, mosquito-borne illnesses are generally not a problem, while most infections are related to the consumption of contaminated food and beverages.

Availability & Cost of Healthcare

Modern facilities in Santiago offer 24-hour walk-in service for urgent problems, as well as specialty care (by appointment) and inpatient services; these include Clínica Las Condes (%2-2210-4000; www.clinicalascondes.cl; Lo Fontecilla 441, Las Condes). For a list of additional physicians, dentists and laboratories in Santiago, go to the website of the US Embassy (https://cl.usembassy.gov).

Medical care in Santiago and other cities is generally good, but it may be difficult to find assistance in remote areas. Most doctors and hospitals expect payment in cash, regardless of whether you have travel health insurance. You can find a list of medical evacuation and travel insurance companies on the website of the US State Department (www.state.gov).

Most pharmacies are well stocked and have trained pharmacists. Medication quality is comparable to other industrialized countries. Drugs that require a prescription elsewhere may be available over the counter here. If you’re taking medication, have its generic (scientific) name handy for refills.

Medical care on Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and in towns of Northern Patagonia is extremely limited. Rural postas (clinics) are rarely well stocked with medicine and are usually attended by paramedics only. Serious medical problems require evacuation to a major city.

Infectious Diseases & Environmental Hazards

BARTONELLOSIS (OROYA FEVER)

This is carried by sand flies in the arid river valleys on the western slopes of the Andes, between altitudes of 800m and 3000m. The chief symptoms are fever and severe body pains. Complications may include marked anemia, enlargement of the liver and spleen, and sometimes death. The drug of choice is chloramphenicol, though doxycycline is also effective.

HANTA VIRUS

A rapidly progressing, life-threatening infection acquired through exposure to the excretion of wild rodents. An outbreak was reported from rural areas in the southern and central parts of Chile in late 2010. Sporadic cases have been reported since that time. The disease occurs in those who live in close association with rodents.

It is unlikely to affect most travelers, though those staying in forest areas may be at risk. Backpackers should never camp in an abandoned refugio (rustic shelter), where there may be a risk of exposure to infected excretion. Pitching a tent is the safer option. If backpacking in an area with hanta virus, campers can get more information from ranger stations.

ALTITUDE SICKNESS

Also known as soroche, altitude sickness may develop in those who ascend rapidly to altitudes greater than 2500m. Symptoms may include headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, malaise, insomnia and loss of appetite. Severe cases may be complicated by fluid in the lungs (high-altitude pulmonary edema) or swelling of the brain (high-altitude cerebral edema).

The best treatment for altitude sickness is descent. If you are exhibiting symptoms, do not ascend. If symptoms are severe or persistent, descend immediately.

Take your time to acclimatize to higher altitudes and drink plenty of fluids, but not alcohol. If you are planning on high-altitude climbing or hiking, consider bringing prescription drug Diamox; you’ll need to take it 24 hours before going into the region.

CHILEAN RECLUSE SPIDER

Found throughout the country, the Chilean recluse spider is not aggressive. Its venom is very dangerous: reactions can include lesions, renal failure and even death. Chilean recluse spiders are 8mm to 30mm long (including legs) and are identified by their brown color, violin-like markings and unusual six eyes. If bitten, put ice on the bite and get immediate medical attention.

WATER

The tap water in Chile’s cities is generally safe but has a high mineral content that can cause stomach upsets; bottled water is a good idea for delicate stomachs and in the north. Vigorous boiling for one minute is the most effective means of water purification. At altitudes greater than 2000m, boil for three minutes. You can also disinfect water with iodine pills, a water filter or Steripen.

Insurance

It’s recommended to have your own health insurance. In the event that you develop a life-threatening medical problem you may want to be evacuated to your home country. Since this may cost thousands of dollars, be sure to have the appropriate insurance before you depart. Your embassy can also recommend medical services.

Internet Access

Most regions have excellent internet connections; hotels, hostels and coffee shops typically have wi-fi. Much of Patagonia lags behind, though free public wi-fi is available in some communities on the plaza. Internet cafe rates range from CH$500 to CH$1200 per hour, with very high rates only in remote areas.

Language Courses

Spanish-language courses can be found in major cities and resort areas.

Legal Matters

Chile’s carabineros (police) have a reputation for being professional and polite. Penalties for common offenses are similar to those given in Europe and North America. Chile has a zero-tolerance policy toward drinking and driving, avoid alcohol if you plan to drive. Drug possession, use or trafficking – including soft drugs such as cannabis – is treated very seriously and results in severe fines and imprisonment.

Police can demand identification at any time, so carry your passport. Throughout the country, the toll-free emergency telephone number for the police is %133.

Chileans often refer to police as pacos, a disrespectful (though not obscene) term that should never be used to a police officer’s face.

Members of the military take themselves seriously, so avoid photographing military installations.

If you are involved in any automobile accident, your license (usually your international permit) will be confiscated until the case is resolved, although local officials will usually issue a temporary driving permit within a few days. A blood-alcohol test is obligatory. After this, you will be taken to the police station to make a statement and then, under most circumstances, released. Ordinarily you cannot leave Chile until the matter is resolved; consult your consulate, insurance carrier and a lawyer at home.

Don’t ever make the error of attempting to bribe the police, whose reputation for institutional integrity is high.

Maps

In Santiago, the Instituto Geográfico Militar (%2-2410-9300; www.igm.cl; Santa Isabel 1651, Centro; h8:30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri; mToesca), just south of the Alameda, produces excellent maps, also sold online. The IGM’s 1:50,000 topographic series is valuable for trekkers, although the maps are out of date and those of sensitive border areas (where most national parks are) may not be available.

JLM Mapas publishes maps for all of the major regions and trekking areas at scales ranging from 1:50,000 to 1:500,000. The maps are widely distributed, easy to use and provide decent information, but they don’t claim to be perfectly accurate.

In most major Chilean cities the Automóvil Club de Chile (%600-450-6000; www.automovilclub.cl; Av Andrés Bello 1863, Providencia; mPedro de Valdivia) has an office that sells highway maps, although not all of them are equally well stocked. Drivers might find Copec maps by Compass (www.mapascompass.cl) useful, available in Copec gas stations. Some local government websites have interactive maps that allow you to search for a street address in major cities. The Plano Digital de Publiguías (www.planos.cl) has mapping from the yellow pages.

The best resource for detailed topographic maps to destinations in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, including Torres del Paine, is SIG Patagon (www.facebook.com/sigpatagon).

Money

The Chilean unit of currency is the peso (CH$). Bank notes come in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000 and 20,000 pesos. Coin values are one, five, 10, 50, 100 and 500 pesos, although one-peso coins are fast disappearing, and even fives and 10s are uncommon. Carry small bills as it can be difficult to change large bills in rural areas; try gas stations and liquor stores by asking, ‘¿Tiene suelto?’.

Exchange rates are usually best in Santiago. Chile’s currency has been pretty stable in recent years. The value of the dollar seems to decline during peak tourist season and shoot back up again come March. Paying a bill with US cash is sometimes acceptable, especially at tour agencies (check their exchange rate carefully). Many top-end hotels publish rates in US dollars with a lower exchange rate than the daily one. It’s best to pay all transactions in pesos.

Wire transfers should arrive in a few days. Chilean banks can give you money in US dollars on request. Western Union offices can be found throughout Chile, usually adjacent to the post office.

ATMs

Chile’s many ATMs, known as redbanc, are the most convenient way to access funds. Transaction fees can be as high as US$10, so withdraw larger sums to rack up fewer fees. Some travelers report that they cannot use Banco del Estado.

Most machines have instructions in Spanish and English. Choose the option tarjeta extranjera (foreign card) before starting the transaction. You cannot rely on ATMs in Pisco Elqui, Bahía Inglesa or in small Patagonian towns. Throughout Patagonia, many small villages only have one bank, Banco del Estado, whose ATMs only sometimes accept MasterCard affiliates.

Those crossing overland from El Chaltén, Argentina to Villa O’Higgins should bring plenty of Chilean pesos, as the nearest reliable banks are in Coyhaique.

Some foreign banks will reimburse ATM transaction fees; it’s worth checking in advance. Also, withdrawals are limited to a sum of CH$200,000.

Cash

Some banks and casas de cambio (exchange houses) will exchange cash, usually US dollars only. Check the latter for commissions and poor rates. More costly purchases, such as tours and hotel bills, can sometimes be paid in US cash.

Credit Cards

Plastic (especially Visa and MasterCard) is welcome in most established businesses; however, many businesses will charge up to 6% extra to cover the charge they have to pay for the transaction. Credit cards can also be useful to show ‘sufficient funds’ before entering another South American country.

Tipping

Restaurants It’s customary to tip 10% of the bill (the bill may include it under ‘servicio’).

Taxis Tips are not required, but you may round off the fare.

Opening Hours

Hours given are generally for high season. In many provincial cities and towns, restaurants and services are closed on Sunday and tourist offices close in low season.

Banks 9am–2pm weekdays, sometimes 10am–1pm Saturday

Government offices & businesses 9am–6pm weekdays

Museums Often close Monday

Post Offices 9am–6pm Monday to Friday, to noon Saturday

Restaurants Noon–11pm, many close 4pm–7pm

Shops 10am–8pm, some close 1pm–3pm

Post

Chile’s national postal service, Correos de Chile (%800-267-736; www.correos.cl), has reasonably dependable but sometimes slow postal services. To send packages within Chile, sending via encomienda (the bus system) is much more reliable and efficient.

Public Holidays

National holidays, when government offices and businesses are closed, are listed here. There is pressure to reduce these or to eliminate so-called sandwich holidays, which many Chileans take between an actual holiday and the weekend, by moving some to the nearest Monday.

Año Nuevo (New Year) January 1

Semana Santa (Easter Week) March or April

Día del Trabajo (Labor Day) May 1

Glorias Navales Commemorating the naval Battle of Iquique; May 21

Corpus Christi May/June; dates vary

Día de San Pedro y San Pablo (St Peter and St Paul’s Day) June 29

Asunción de la Virgen (Assumption) August 15

Día de Unidad Nacional (Day of National Unity) First Monday of September

Día de la Independencia Nacional (National Independence Day) September 18

Día del Ejército (Armed Forces Day) September 19

Día de la Raza (Columbus Day) October 12

Todo los Santos (All Saints’ Day) November 1

Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception) December 8

Navidad (Christmas Day) December 25

PRACTICALITIES

Newspapers Read Chilean news in English from the Santiago Times (www.santiagotimes.cl). Chile’s El Mercurio (www.elmercurio.cl) is a conservative, dry but hugely respected newspaper. La Tercera (www.latercera.cl) is another mainstream option. Alternative newspaper the Clinic (www.theclinic.cl) provides cutting-edge editorials and satire on politics and society.

Radio A recommended news station is Radio Cooperativa (103.1FM).

TV Direct TV is common; most hotels and hospedajes (budget accommodations) have a hookup.

Weights & Measures Use the metric system except for tire pressure (measured in pounds per square inch).

Safe Travel

Compared with other South American countries and much of North America, Chile is remarkably safe. Petty theft is a problem in larger cities and bus terminals and at beach resorts in summer, so always keep a close eye on all belongings.

Dogs & Bugs

Chile’s stray canines are a growing problem. Scabies can be common in street dogs; don’t pet those with bad skin problems, it’s highly contagious. If driving, be prepared for dogs barking and running after the bumper.

Summer in the south brings about the pesty tábano, a large biting horsefly that is more an annoyance than a health risk. Bring along insect repellent and wear light-colored clothing.

Natural Hazards

Earthquakes are a fact of life for most Chileans. Local construction often does not meet seismic safety standards; adobe buildings tend to be especially vulnerable. The unpredictability of quakes means there is little that a traveler can do to prepare.

Active volcanoes are less likely to threaten safety, since they usually give some warning. Nevertheless, unexpected eruptions in recent years have the country monitoring volcanoes more closely.

Many of Chile’s finest beaches have dangerous offshore rip currents, so ask before diving in and make sure someone onshore knows your whereabouts. Many beaches post signs that say apto para bañar (swimming OK) and no apto para bañar (swimming not OK) or peligroso (dangerous).

In winter, the smog in Santiago can become a health risk. The city declares ‘pre-emergency’ or ‘emergency’ states when the level of smog is dangerously high and takes measures to limit emissions. Children, senior citizens and people with respiratory problems should avoid trips to downtown Santiago at these times.

Personal Security & Theft

Crime is more concentrated in the dense urban areas, though picks up in tourist destinations in summer. Those staying in cabins should close and lock windows before heading out, particularly in popular resort towns. At the beach, be alert for pickpockets and avoid leaving valuables around while you go for a swim. Never leave an unattended car unlocked, leave seats and floors bare and keep all valuables in the trunk.

Don’t fall for distractions, such as a tap on the shoulder, spitting or getting something spilled on you; these ‘accidents’ are often part of a team effort to relieve you of some valuables. Be mindful of your belongings and avoid conspicuous displays of expensive jewelry.

Stay clear of political protests, particularly in the capital; they have a tendency to attract violent clashes.

Baggage insurance is a good idea. Do not leave valuables such as cash or cameras in your room. Some travelers bring their own lock. Some hotels often have secure strongboxes in rooms.

GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.

Australian Government (www.smartraveller.gov.au)

Canadian Government (www.travel.gc.ca/travelling/advisories)

German Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de/en)

Japan Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp)

Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.belastingdienst.nl)

New Zealand Government (www.safetravel.govt.nz)

UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)

US State Department (www.travel.state.gov)

Shopping

Many cities have good antiques markets, notably Santiago’s Mercado Franklin and Valparaíso’s Plaza O’Higgins. Flea markets are known as ferias persas (Persian fairs). Fundación Artesanías de Chile (Chilean Craft Foundation; www.artesaniasdechile.cl) showcases quality artesanía.

Regional Specialties

Chile is one of few countries in the world where the semiprecious stone lapiz lazuli is found. It is a deep navy-blue color and makes sophisticated jewelry that can be bought in most Chilean jewelers. Check the quality of the setting and silver used – they are often only silver-plated and very soft.

Craft markets can be found throughout the country. In the north, artisans put shaggy llama and alpaca wool to good use by making thick jumpers, scarves and other garments to take the bite off the frigid highland nights. Many of these goods are similar to those in Bolivia and Peru. You’ll also see crafts made with cactus wood and painstakingly crafted leather goods in Norte Chico.

In Chiloé and Patagonia, hand-knit woolens such as bulky fishers’ sweaters and blankets are reasonably priced and useful in winter. In the Araucanía, look for jewelry based on Mapuche designs, which are unique to Chile. They also produce quality weavings and basketry. In the Lakes District and Patagonia, artisans carve wooden plates and bowls out of the (sustainable) hardwood raulí.

Wine lovers have plenty of Chilean wines to choose from: stick to the boutique wineries with wines that you can’t find in your own country, or pick up bottles of the powerful grape-brandy pisco, which is difficult to find outside Chile. Other artisanal edibles include miel de ulmo, a very aromatic and tasty honey special to Patagonia, and mermelada de murta, a jam made of a tart red berry. As long as such goods are still sealed, there shouldn’t be a problem getting through international customs.

Bargaining

Crafts markets are the only acceptable venue for bargaining. Transport and accommodations rates are generally fixed and prominently displayed. Chileans can be easily offended by aggressive haggling as it isn’t part of the culture.

Telephone

Throughout Chile, call centers with private cabins are rapidly being replaced by internet cafes. Remote tour operators and lodges may have satellite phones with a Santiago prefix.

Calling from cell phones or land lines requires different prefixes. Lonely Planet listings have phone numbers as called by cell phones, given the prevalence of travelers who buy local SIM cards.

Cell Phones

Foreign travelers with unlocked cell phones can only use a Chilean SIM card after registering their own device in Chile. The national telecommunications website lists companies that certify phones (www.multibanda.cl/empresas-certificadoras). Register online or at a local office, a five-day process.

SIM cards

Local SIM cards are cheap and widely available, for use with unlocked GSM 850/1900 phones. There’s 3G or 4G access in urban centers.

Cell-phone numbers have nine digits, starting with %9. If calling cell-to-landline, use the landline’s area code.

Cell phones have a ‘caller pays’ format. Calls between cell and landlines are expensive and quickly eat up prepaid card amounts.

Purchase a new SIM card from a Chilean operator such as Entel or Movistar. Then purchase phone credit from the same carrier in kiosks, pharmacies or supermarket check-outs. In Patagonia, Entel has much better coverage than other companies.

There’s reception in most inhabited areas, with the poorest reception in the middle of the Atacama Desert and parts of Patagonia.

Phone Codes

Chile’s country code is %56. All telephone numbers in Santiago and the Metropolitan Region have seven digits; all other telephone numbers have six digits except for certain toll-free and emergency numbers. The toll-free number for the police is %133, ambulance is %131. You’ll reach directory assistance at %103.

Long-distance calls are based on a carrier system: to place a call, precede the number with the telephone company’s code: Entel (www.entel.cl), for example. To make a collect call, dial %182 to get an operator.

Time

For most of the year, Chile is four hours behind GMT, but from mid-December to late March, because of daylight-saving time (summer time), the difference is three hours. The exact date of the changeover varies from year to year. Easter Island is two hours behind the mainland.

Toilets

Pipes and sewer systems in older buildings are quite fragile: used toilet paper should be discarded in wastebaskets. Cheaper accommodations and public toilets rarely provide toilet paper, so carry your own. Better restaurants and cafes are good alternatives to public toilets, which are often dirty.

Tourist Information

Every regional capital and some other cities have a local representative of Sernatur (www.chile.travel/en), the national tourist service. Offices vary in usefulness – some have knowledgeable multilingual staff, but others have little hands-on knowledge of destinations they cover.

Many municipalities have their own tourist office, usually on the main plaza or at the bus terminal. In some areas, these offices may be open during summer only.

If hiking, buy good topo maps of the area you plan to visit from an outdoor store, as parks rarely have detailed maps of their own.

Some official international representatives for tourism can be found abroad. Consulates in major cities may have a tourist representative, but more accessible and comprehensive information can be found through specialized travel agencies and on the internet.

Chile has a few general travel agencies that work with affiliates around the world. Chilean Travel Service (CTS; %2-2251-0400; www.chileantravelservices.com; Antonio Bellet 77, Oficina 101, Providencia; mPedro de Valdivia) has well-informed multilingual staff and can organize accommodations and tours all over Chile through your local travel agency. STA (www.statravel.com) offers travel services for students.

Travelers with Disabilities

Travel within Chile is a robust challenge for those with disabilities, though patient planning can open a lot of doors. Even top-end hotels and resorts cannot be relied upon to have ramps or rooms adapted for those with impaired mobility; an estimated 10% of hotels in Santiago cater to wheelchairs. Lifts are more common in large hotels and the law now requires new public buildings to provide disabled access.

Santiago’s Metro (www.metro.cl; per ride from CH$610; h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-11pm Sun) has elevators and Transantiago (%800-730-073; www.transantiago.cl; single ride from CH$610) has access ramps and spaces for wheelchairs on new buses. Some street lights have noise-indicated crossings for the blind. Those in wheelchairs will find Chile’s narrow and poorly maintained sidewalks awkward to negotiate. Crossing streets is also tricky, but most Chilean drivers are remarkably courteous toward pedestrians – especially those with an obvious disability.

Wheel the World (https://gowheeltheworld.com) makes Chile’s extremes more accessible to those with disabilities, with some very cool off-the-beaten-track opportunities in Patagonia and Easter Island.

American organization Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com) organizes independent travel to Chile for people with disabilities.

National parks are often discounted and sometimes free for disabled visitors (check with Conaf; www.conaf.cl). Cruises or ferries such as Navimag (MAP; %61-241-1421, Rodoviario 61-241-1642; www.navimag.com; Costanera 308, Av Pedro Montt; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri) sometimes offer free upgrades to disabled travelers, and some ski resorts near Santiago have outrigger poles for disabled skiers.

Visas

Nationals of the US, Canada, Australia and the EU do not need a visa to visit Chile.

Passports are obligatory and are essential for cashing traveler’s checks, checking into hotels and other routine activities.

Always carry your passport: Chile’s police can demand ID at any moment, and many hotels require you to show it at check-in.

If your passport is lost or stolen, notify the police, ask them for a police statement, and advise your consulate as soon as possible.

Tourist Cards

On arrival, you’ll be handed a 90-day tourist card in the form of a receipt with bar code. Don’t lose it! If you do, go to the local policía internacional or the nearest police station. You’ll be asked for it upon leaving the country.

It’s possible to renew a tourist card for 90 more days at the Departamento de Extranjería (MAP; %2-2550-2484, call center 2-3239-3100; www.extranjeria.gob.cl; Fanor Velasco 56, Centro; h8:30am-2pm Mon-Fri; mLos Héroes). Bring photocopies of your passport and tourist card. You can also visit the Departamento de Extranjería in a regional capital. Many visitors prefer a quick dash across the Argentine border and back.

Volunteering

Experienced outdoor guides may be able to exchange labor for accommodations during the busy high season, if you can stick out the entire season. Language schools often place students in volunteer work as well. Spanish-language skills are always a plus.

AMA Torres del Paine (www.amatorresdelpaine.org) Located in the national park, works with a limited number of volunteers.

Experiment Chile (www.experiment.cl) Organizes 14-week language-learning/volunteer programs.

Go Voluntouring (www.govoluntouring.com) Canadian organization that consolidates listings from various NGOs in addition to social and teaching programs.

Un Techo Para Chile (www.untechoparachile.cl) Nonprofit organization that builds homes for low-income families.

WWOOF Chile (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms; %cell 9-9129-5033; www.wwoofchile.cl) Live and learn about organic farming.

Work

It’s increasingly difficult to obtain residence and work permits for Chile. Consequently, many foreigners don’t, but reputable employers will insist on the proper visa. If you need one, go to the Departamento de Extranjería (www.extranjeria.gob.cl).

In Santiago, many youth hostels offer work (usually stated on their websites). It is not unusual for travelers to work as English-language instructors in Santiago and other cities. In general, pay is hourly and full-time employment is hard to come by without a commitment to stay for some time.