A pretty stand can make even the most humble shop-bought pastry something worthy of a Parisian patisserie, so here’s my guide to making one of your very own. Don’t feel limited to three plates for your stand – use four or five if you like.
you will need
3 plates
Water-soluble marker
Safety glasses
Cordless drill with a tile drill-bit
Three-tier cake-stand fitting, which comes with rods, screws and washers
Screwdriver
1 Select the plates you wish to use. You will need a dinner plate for the bottom, a side plate for the middle and a saucer for the top. For an Alice-in-Wonderland feel, use a china cup for the final tier. Mismatched patterns work really well, but try to tie the plates together in some way – whether through a theme, such as birds or a pretty floral motif, or a complementary design or colour scheme.
2 Make sure your plates are clean and dry and without cracks. Very occasionally, if a plate has a hairline crack or is especially delicate, it will break when you drill it. Measure the diameter of each plate and mark the middle of each with a water-soluble marker. This will act as your drill guide.
3 Put on your safety glasses and, on a safe and secure surface, such as a workbench or well-protected table, slowly drill where you have marked the middle of each plate until you have passed all the way through. It’s worth noting that the glaze on some vintage plates makes them impossible to drill through, which you won’t know about until you start trying to drill. In this case, unfortunately you’ll have to find another plate.
4 Assemble the cake stand following the manufacturer’s instructions for the fittings.
I love using unusual containers for a delicious display of those ever-useful herbs such as basil, coriander and sage, together with something more decorative, like lavender. It’s all about creating an enchanting display at different heights and levels.
you will need
Cut-glass dessert dishes and other vintage glassware and crockery
Herbs from a garden centre
Small bag of potting compost
A4 sheet of thick card, and a pen
Wooden stirrers
Hot glue gun
1 To pot your herbs, half-fill the cut-glass dishes with the compost. Gently ease the herbs from their small pots and place them on the compost. When planting herbs, always consider the size of the plant that you are potting compared to the container. If you are using plug plants, you may find you can fit in two or three per dish.
2 Add small handfuls of the compost around the herbs, gently pressing it firm, until the dish is almost full. It is best not to fill the pot right to the top because when the compost is watered it will swell slightly.
3 Stand your plants on a light windowsill but not in direct sunlight, and water them regularly.
4 To label your herbs, cut small labels from the thick card and write the herb names on them. Then use the hot glue gun to attach them firmly to the wooden stirrers. Push them into the compost alongside each herb.
Painting glass Kilner jars is a quick and simple way to add a touch of vintage to your everyday kitchen items. You can also decorate jam jars, milk bottles or any glass containers you care to lay your paintbrush on. A perfect solution for storing dry goods and kitchen utensils, they also make great gifts when filled with sweets and tied with a ribbon.
you will need
Stencil outline
Cutting mat
A4 sheet of transparent acetate
Masking tape
Craft knife
Kilner jars
Glass paints in a variety of colours
Stippling brush
1 If you are using a design from this book, photocopy it (enlarging if necessary). If you are making your own design, simply draw it on some paper. Lay the design on the cutting mat and then lay the acetate over the top and secure it in place with some masking tape.
2 Using a sharp craft knife, begin cutting along the longest, straightest edges of the stencil design, as these are the easiest. Try to cut each line only once, so make sure you press firmly and smoothly. Use your free hand to secure the acetate and image, but make sure you keep your fingers well away from where you are cutting. As you are cutting, turn the cutting mat so you are always cutting at an easy angle and away from you as much as possible.
3 Once you have cut out the whole design, tidy up any rough edges (so paint doesn’t get caught up in these), and your stencil is ready to use.
4 Attach the stencil to a jar with the masking tape and then, on a prepared work surface, apply paint using the stippling brush. Load the brush with some paint, but not too much, and use a gentle stabbing motion to apply the paint through the stencil. Leave the jar to dry overnight, carefully remove the stencil and fill with whatever you fancy. Always wash by hand.
I always enjoy trawling old tile shops and reclamation yards looking for pretty and unique designs to refresh a sink splashback or a plain bathroom scheme. But, if you can’t find what you want, make your own! I recommend trying one tile before considering decorating your entire bathroom. Here are two simple methods.
you will need
Royalty- or copyright-free image, or a design of your own to fit the tiles
A4 inkjet waterslide transfer paper
Inkjet printer (it must be inkjet; this process isn’t compatible with a laserjet printer)
Plain tiles, avoiding any with a glazed, rough or textured surface
D-cut squeegee
Sponge
1 Select your image and print it onto the waterslide transfer paper using an inkjet printer and following the manufacturer’s instructions. Remember that the image will ultimately be reversed, so don’t choose a picture that will look odd when it’s back to front – for example, images that contain words or numbers. If you are creating your own design, you will need to scan it in to your computer first.
2 Put the printed design into a bowl or sink full of warm water and wait for 60 seconds until the design can be removed from the backing paper.
3 On a prepared work surface, slip the design from the backing paper onto the surface of a clean and dry tile and use the squeegee to make it smooth. Wash away any gum from the surface of the design with a clean damp sponge. Leave the tile to dry at room temperature for 8–10 hours.
4 Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F/Gas mark 1), then put the tile in the oven for 10–20 minutes to seal the transfer. You will know it is ready when the image turns shiny, as if glazed. Turn off the oven and let the tile cool down before taking it out and putting it to one side to cool completely at room temperature. It is now ready for tiling. Always wash decorated tiles by hand in warm soapy water.
you will need
Plain tiles, avoiding any with a glazed, rough or textured surface
High-gloss water-based ceramic pens
Stencils (optional)
A4 sheet of acetate (optional)
Ceramic varnish (optional)
1 If you are a confident artist, you can draw your design directly onto the tiles with the water-based ceramic pens. Alternatively, make a stencil of your design using the acetate and use this for drawing onto the tiles. Set the tiles to one side for at least 4 hours until the paint has dried.
2 Preheat the oven to 170°C (375°F/Gas mark 5), then put the tiles in the oven for 25–30 minutes until they are touch-dry. Turn off the oven and let the tiles cool down before taking them out and putting to one side to cool completely at room temperature. If you wish, you can seal the tiles once they are cool with ceramic varnish. They are now ready for tiling. Always wash tiles by hand in warm soapy water.
Brighten up an old kitchen chair or dining table with a coat of paint and découpage. The options are as endless as your imagination; you could go for a unified colour scheme and a single subtle motif or a range of colours and bold layered découpage – whatever works in your home. This is also a fantastic way to upcycle a tired wooden desk chair or other wooden furniture.
you will need
Dust sheet or newspaper
Sandpaper in various grades and your choice of paint
Wooden chair
Printed royalty- or copyright-free image
Découpage glue
1 Protect your work area with a dust sheet or newspaper and prepare and paint the chair.
2 Stick the printed image onto the chair with the découpage glue. Paint over the image with a layer of the découpage glue, which dries to a clear seal. Let the chair dry for at least 5 hours.
I think I’ve always been a bit of a gypsy at heart. I’ve been reading tarots for people since I was 13 years old and I’m always on the move; I seem to get restless after being in a house for about 18 months, especially once I’ve got it just as I like it. My eldest son Alfie recently worked out that he has moved 14 times in his life – and he’s only 15!
So it’s no surprise that I feel very much at home with the whole hippy gypsy style, not least because it also echoes the Stevie Nicks look that started off my love of vintage style – lots of black lace and shawls and plenty of vibrantly-coloured cushions.
Five years ago I got my chance to really embrace the gypsy style when I found a pretty 1950s cream caravan on eBay for £250. Over the next couple of months I painted the outside mint green, then inside I covered the walls in a black floral Ralph Lauren wallpaper, the beds in black velvet, the windows with black lace curtains, and accessorised with lace and silk cushions. I even put up an old chandelier that I found in an antique shop in Islington.
It was just stunning, and it became my little haven; I spent hours reading and writing in it when the kids were at school. It looked so lovely that it even made it into Vogue magazine. When we then moved to a townhouse we had to sell it as we had nowhere to store it, but when we moved back to the country, I decided to look for another one. I gave an interview where I said that I was looking for a gypsy wagon to renovate, and someone tweeted me to say that their parents had one in a village that was literally just ten minutes away. It had been in the family for more than 70 years and it was charming. I loved it at once and my husband Danny bought it for my birthday present – what a fantastic gift!
I spent hours looking for inspiration for decorating the gypsy wagon. I really admire interior designer Sera Loftus’s style, who has the gypsy look down to perfection, and I have also recently come across fashion and interiors brand Magnolia Pearl; they own the most wonderful Airstream that has been revamped into a gypsy haven. Inspired, I then got cracking on the renovation. My local builder gutted the caravan and made wooden slats for a bed. I then lined the ceiling in Kate Forman fabric and covered a large mattress with a vintage patchwork quilt and vintage fur throw, and added lots of velvet and tapestry cushions. For the exterior, I called a local artist called Faye Chadburn and showed her some sketches of the sort of flowers and butterflies that I wanted painted on the outside – they weren’t traditional gypsy stencils because I wanted it to be completely original. The finished effect is magical and exactly what I hoped it would be.
eBay has lots of caravans for sale, but obviously the older and rarer 1920s, 1930s or 1940s wagons are much more expensive. Real Romany wagons, depending on their age and condition, can cost even more.
Of course, you can really go to town in a caravan, but you don’t have to have one to enjoy the hippy gypsy look; it can easily be recreated anywhere in the house, although it works best in small rooms or corners of rooms if you want to get that really cosy feel.
This look is essentially about layering – lots of floral prints on the walls or as soft furnishings, embellished with accessories made from crocheted lace and strongly textured fabrics. Think rich, primal colours, such as reds and yellows, and lots of sumptuous, exotic fabrics. Indian sari materials and exquisite silks are perfect, as are tapestry cushions and crushed velvet in deep jewel-like shades. With this look you need more – more cushions and more bedspreads – all piled up to create a luxurious, intimate atmosphere. Keep the cosy feel going with low-level lighting. I love chandeliers, and in this case antique ones with hanging crystals to reflect the light are a match made in heaven, but if you have space, you can scatter candles in Moroccan or gold-leafed tea-light holders around the room. Enhance this Bedouin tent-like look by hanging lace or silks from the ceiling over a bed or simply over large cushions on the floor. If you can find them, Moroccan or Middle-Eastern quilts and hangings look fabulously authentic.
The joy of this look is that you can use it anywhere. It is heaven in an adult’s bedroom; you can tone it down with finer lace for a child’s bedroom; you can use it in a sitting room or the corner of a playroom – or you can even take it outside and, on a warm summer’s day or evening, create your own exotic holiday destination in your back garden.
Being practical yet a little stylish in the kitchen is important to me, as very often I am still wearing my apron when guests arrive. This simple pinny design was inspired by a gypsy skirt and uses rich colours and floral patterns. A sewing machine isn’t essential, but it is preferable. Similarly, a tailor’s dummy would be helpful or, failing that, a willing volunteer.
you will need
44 x 78cm (17½ x 31in) fabric for the main skirt section
130 x 20cm (51 x 8in) fabric for the frilly hem
180 x 5cm (71 x 2in) wide ribbon for the tie
30 x 30cm (12 x 12in) fabric for the pocket
1m x 2cm (1yd x ¾in) lace or braid
2 tassels (optional)
Sewing machine (optional)
1 On each edge of the main skirt fabric, press a 5mm (¼in) hem to the wrong side and then fold again by 1.5cm (⅝in). Press again, then pin and stitch. On the top edge of the skirt, press 1.5cm (⅝in) to the front. Pin, but don’t stitch.
2 To give the top of the skirt some shape, make five 1cm (½in) pleats at each end. Starting 5cm (2in) from one end, fold the fabric in on itself by 1cm (½in). Pin in place. Repeat four more times with each pleat about 2.5cm (1in) apart. Repeat at the other end of the top of the skirt. Stitch in place with a running stitch or using a sewing machine, about 1cm (½in) from the edge. Remove the pins.
3 For the frill for the bottom, press in 1cm (½in) along the long edge that will be the top of the frill and stitch in place with loose running stitches. With the loose piece of thread at one end, gently pull it to make gathers. Pull up until the frill is the same length along the top edge as the bottom of the main fabric (about 78cm/31in). Secure the thread by wrapping it around a pin inserted into the frill.
4 Pin the frill to the bottom of the skirt so that the right side of the frill is overlapping the right side of the main fabric by about 2cm (¾in), and with a small amount at each end wrapping round onto the back. Stitch in place and remove the pins.
5 For the tie, pin the ribbon to the right side of the skirt at the top, aligning the top edge of the ribbon with the top of the skirt. Stitch along both sides of the ribbon and also across the ribbon at each side of the main fabric. At the ends of the ribbon, fold over the edges towards the wrong side to make a point. Stitch in place.
6 Cut out the pocket to the desired shape and press in 3mm (⅛in) along the top edge and then 5mm (¼in) and stitch in place with slip stitch. Then stitch on the lace or braid around the remaining edges. Pin the pocket to the main part of the apron, ensuring it is centred, and then stitch firmly in place.
7 Finish the apron with a tassel at each end of the ribbon tie, if you wish.
I like my kitchen items to have a practical use but also to suit my style. Even the humble tea towel can make a statement when hanging from a door or draped over an oven door handle. Sewing with black embroidery thread gives a modern twist to traditional cross-stitch.
you will need
56 x 72cm (22 x 28½in) white cotton fabric or plain white tea towel
Sewing machine (optional)
56cm (22in) cotton tassel braid
56cm (22in) lace border
12 x 9cm (4¾ x 3½in) piece of 14-count soluble canvas
15cm (6in) embroidery hoop (optional)
Cotton embroidery thread: black or colour of your choice
Towel
Fabric dye (optional)
1 Press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) all the way around the fabric. Stitch in place using slip stitch, or use a sewing machine. You could use a plain tea towel instead.
2 Pin the tassel braid to the bottom hem of the tea towel and sew using a running stitch or use a sewing machine.
3 Measure 10cm (4in) from the tassel braid, then pin and sew the lace border using a running stitch.
4 Pin and tack the soluble canvas onto the tea towel where you want the pattern to sit. Here, the pattern starts 5cm (2in) from the left-hand side and roughly 5mm (¼in) from the black lace. If you are using an embroidery hoop, place it around the soluble canvas and gently pull the fabric taut.
5 Stitch the bird using cross-stitches and following the chart. You will only need to stitch with two strands of the thread. To separate them, cut a length of embroidery thread from the skein roughly twice the length of your forearm and gently separate out the strands by running your thumb down the thread, making sure you continue to hold the two groups tightly.
6 When you have finished stitching, remove the hoop and the tacking stitches.
7 Soak the embroidered material in a clean bowl of lukewarm water for around 10 minutes until all the soluble canvas has dissolved and you are just left with your stitches. Leave your tea towel to dry naturally, laid flat on a towel.
8 For an extra finishing touch, hand-dye the tea towel to give it an aged look. Follow the dye manufacturer’s instructions.
9 Once dry (or nearly dry), turn your embroidery face down on a towel and iron on the back to ensure that you don’t crush your stitches with the iron.
you will need
56 x 72cm (22 x 28½in) white cotton fabric or a plain white tea towel
Sewing machine (optional)
Appliqué template and embroidery design
Tracing paper
Embroidery needle and cotton embroidery thread: pink or colour of your choice
25 x 25cm (10 x 10in) appliqué fabric
1 Press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) all the way around the fabric. Stitch in place using slip stitch or use a sewing machine. You could use a plain tea towel instead.
2 Copy the rose pattern onto the tracing paper and then pin it to the fabric where you want the pattern to be positioned. Work small running stitches with a contrasting colour of cotton thread through both layers around all the outlines, then remove the tracing paper.
3 Using six and two strands of the embroidery thread, and working in back stitch, embroider over the running stitches. To separate the threads, cut a length of embroidery thread from the skein roughly twice the length of your forearm and gently separate out the strands by running your thumb down the thread, making sure you continue to hold the two groups tightly.
4 Carefully remove the running stitches using small embroidery scissors.
5 For the appliquéd leaves, trace the pattern of the leaves and the area that covers where the rose has been embroidered onto tracing paper. Pin the paper to the fabric and cut out the shapes, cutting through both the fabric and tracing paper (you can keep the paper if you want to use the pattern again).
6 Pin the appliqué fabric to the tea towel and sew on with cotton or embroidery thread using a neat running stitch. Leave a rough edge to add a rustic touch. You could also use slightly larger leaves (increase the design on a photocopier by roughly 30 per cent) and slip stitch them in place.
I love my home and Danny loves to cook. We’re both really sociable and can think of nothing better than spending time with friends over a lingering lunch or a decadent dinner. Whether we’re eating inside or out, celebrating a special occasion or just casually catching up with friends or family, I like to make a big effort and sit everyone down around a stylishly set table.
No matter how nice your table is as a piece of furniture, it always looks better when dressed. I think every meal deserves a tablecloth – it adds a bit of sophistication – and I prefer mine to create a neutral background so that my vintage accessories can dictate the look. It’s hard to find the genuine article as tablecloths from yesteryear were often made from delicate fabrics that have become damaged or simply deteriorated over the years, but there are lots of new vintage-style cloths around; my favourites are linen and crêpe with pretty small floral patterns. I think pastel-coloured cloths look better than white, as they add a bit of colour, but if you do go for white and fancy brightening it up, you can always place a coloured lace runner or a full cloth over the top (and if you don’t like the colour of a cheap bit of fabric – dye it to one you do like). Piano shawls with delicate fringing can also look fabulous.
Napkins make a meal special and really show you’re making an effort, and I like delicately dyed ones and those with a lace inset that have an air of shabby chic. I prefer napkins to have a similar style to what’s on the table, but they don’t have to be identical – I have been known to use different colours across the table, either in tones of pastels or bright colours. The Goth in me also enjoys throwing tradition to the wind and laying out a black and red scheme for a dinner party.
When it comes to crockery, I definitely like to mix and match. You can easily get hold of vintage plates quite cheaply in charity shops, car boot sales or flea markets. Buy what you love; it doesn’t matter if they are a bit faded or don’t go together, that’s the joy of the look. If they aren’t quite what you dreamed of, you can always get arty and decorate them using enamel or ceramic paints then bake the plates in the oven to seal.
Although I adore the informality of mixed styles of crockery, I do think a table looks better if the glasses have a uniform look, otherwise the scheme can get a bit chaotic. Again, you can get hold of vintage glasses at all the usual places, but it can be hard to get hold of a complete set, or even enough for a large group of friends, so you are probably better off buying such glassware from shops that sell vintage-style homeware.
Whether you are eating during the day or evening, jam jars of freshly picked flowers look gorgeous and really bring the table together. If you’ve got a good selection in the garden, this can be cheaply and easily done, or you can pick up a bouquet from a florist. I like to include sprigs of rosemary and lavender from the garden in my jars, which fill out the arrangements but also add a wonderful fragrance.
I admit it, I have an obsession with chandeliers, but when we have friends over in the evening it is one of the few times that I leave the lights off. I think a dinner table has more atmosphere with tea lights scattered over it, nestling among flowers with their light sparkling off the jam jars and the pretty glassware. I also have some vintage-style silver candle holders that I light in the evening. It can get a bit gloomy at night if you just stick to candles, so I also like to hang strings of fairy lights around the walls, which softly light the room as we while away the evening.
Entertaining vintage style can be achieved on a really small budget, no matter how sophisticated the look, as long as you think first about how the accessories you buy will work together. Keep it simple and don’t over-clutter the table – remember that atmosphere is everything.
This tablecloth is not one for everyday use, but it will make your kitchen table a little bit special. I have used ivory lace and black cotton, but choose fabric and colours that suit your style. The instructions given here make a tablecloth that measures 2.8 x 1.6m (9 x 5ft): it has nine rows, each with five squares.
you will need
About 2m (2yd) cotton fabric, cut into 23 31cm (12½in) squares
22 pre-cut and hemmed lace squares, each 30cm (12in) square
Sewing machine with overlock function
9m x 11cm (10yd x 4½in) lace border
1 Press under 1cm (½in) on each edge of the cotton squares.
2 Working across one row of squares, right sides up, and alternating lace and fabric, pin five squares together, overlapping by about 5mm (¼in). Stitch together using overlock stitch on the sewing machine.
3 Repeat for the remaining eight rows, but alternate the order of the fabric and lace. Stitch together the rows in the same way to make one large tablecloth.
4 To finish, cut the lace border into four pieces to match the length and width of the tablecloth but with an additional 22cm (9in) on each piece for mitring the corners. With right sides up, pin the fabric over the border with 11cm (4½in) excess at each end. Stitch together using overlock stitch, as before. If your lace border is narrower or wider than 11cm (4½in), you will need to adjust the excess for mitring accordingly.
5 To mitre the corners, pin and tack together the lace border at a 45-degree angle to the corner of the main fabric, with right sides facing. Press the excess fabric to one side and then overlock the layers together, right side uppermost. Trim the excess. Repeat for each corner.
Dressing the table and creating the perfect atmosphere is really important to me, especially for a big occasion. Choose the colours and fabrics you love; I simply adore heritage black lace, and have softened it by layering the beautiful scalloped design with dusky pink satin to create a gothic but feminine feel.
You will need
For the runner
About 183 x 40cm (72 x 16in) pink satin
About 183 x 40cm (72 x 16in) black lace
Sewing machine (optional)
80cm (32in) black fringe
For each mat
40 x 30cm (16 x 12in) pink satin
40 x 30cm (16 x 12in) black lace
1 Measure the width of the table and divide the measurement by four. This will give you the approximate width of the runner. Then measure the length of the area that you want the runner to cover. Add 3cm (1¼in) to the length and width and cut out the satin and lace to these dimensions. You may want to run it just across the centre of the table or make it longer so that it overhangs at each end. Amend the length accordingly.
2 To make the runner, press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) on each edge of the satin. Stitch in place using slip stitch or use a sewing machine.
3 Lay the lace on your work surface, right side down, and lay the satin on top, also right side down. Pin the excess lace onto the back of the satin and stitch in place, about 1cm (½in) in from the edges.
4 Cut two pieces of the fringe for each end of the runner. Add a little extra to the length for a neat finish. Pin the fringe to the right side of the runner, tucking under the allowance to the wrong side. Stitch in place.
5 For each place mat, press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) on each edge of the satin. Stitch in place using slip stitch or use a sewing machine.
6 Lay the lace on your work surface, right side down, and lay the satin on top, also right side down. Pin the excess lace onto the back of the satin and stitch in place, about 1cm (½in) in from the edges. If you should have some lace with a scalloped edge, incorporate it into the design. Here, only three sides are stitched together, leaving the scalloped edge loose.
Embroidering small motifs onto handkerchiefs, pillowcases or napkins is a really satisfying and relatively quick way to give new fabric a vintage feel. The detail on these embroidered napkins adds a perfect finishing touch to your table setting. The instructions here are for one napkin; repeat as many times as you need.
you will need
Plain cotton or linen cut into a 30cm (12in) square
Sewing machine (optional)
Tracing paper: 15cm (6in) piece
Embroidery thread in a contrasting colour
Embroidery hoop (optional)
1 silk tassel in a colour that matches the embroidery thread
1 Press in 3mm (⅛in) and then 5mm (¼in) all the way around the square of fabric. Stitch in place with slip stitch or use a sewing machine.
2 Copy the pattern or your own pattern onto the tracing paper and then pin it to the napkin about 2.5cm (1in) in from one corner. Work small running stitches with a contrasting colour of thread carefully through both layers around all the outlines, except for any tiny details, which you can stitch by hand when you have embroidered the rest of the design. Gently remove the tracing paper.
3 If you are using an embroidery hoop, place it around the design and gently pull the fabric taut.
4 Separate the embroidery thread into three strands and, using tiny back stitches, embroider the design onto the linen. To separate the threads, cut a length of embroidery thread from the skein roughly twice the length of your forearm and gently separate out the strands by running your thumb down the thread, making sure you continue to hold the two groups tightly.
5 When you have finished stitching, remove the hoop.
6 Pin a tassel to the corner beneath the embroidery and stitch in place using a cross-stitch. Iron the napkin on the wrong side to finish.
These raggedy rose napkin ties go perfectly with the embroidered napkins. The instructions here are for one tie; repeat as many times as you need. I recommend using fabric offcuts to create a set of perfect English roses for your table.
you will need
23 x 5.5cm (9 x 2¼in) fabric for each tie, plus offcuts to cover the wire and finish the ends
36cm (14in) soft wire
Double-sided sticky tape
1 Along one long side of the fabric (the bottom, if there’s a right way to the pattern), 5mm (¼in) in from the edge, sew a loose running stitch. Don’t finish off at the end, but remove the needle and gently pull up the thread to gather the fabric. Don’t cut the thread.
2 Starting at the narrow end opposite the loose thread, fold it over by a few millimetres and then wrap the gathered fabric around itself to make a roll. Wind the thread around the outside of the tie at least six times to secure the material and to give the flower an attractive binding. By this time, it should look like a flower just opening. Stitch together firmly at the bottom to ensure that it won’t unravel.
3 Cover the wire by cutting a narrow piece from an offcut of fabric that is long enough to wind around and cover the full length of the wire. Stick double-sided sticky tape along the full length of the fabric on the wrong side, then tightly wrap it around the wire.
4 Attach the fabric-covered wire to the underside of the flower with a few neat stitches, and also stitch the fabric closed at the ends of the wire.
5 As an attractive addition to the end of each wire, you could make small decorative miniature versions of the main flower. Cut two very narrow strips of the same fabric about 5cm (2in) long and 1cm (½in) wide and preferably in the same fabric as the flower head. Gently gather as in Step 1 and make as in Step 2. Push each one onto the ends of the wire and stitch to the fabric covering to secure.
I love the look of the indoors out of doors. Unfortunately we don’t get to spend many days or evenings outdoors in this country, as the weather is frequently against us, but whenever we can do it, I’m out there!
The romantic in me loves the idea of a scene in the garden that’s rather like something from A Midsummer Night’s Dream – a fantastical, magical world set amongst nature. When Danny and I were planning our wedding in 2006, I decided I wanted exactly that sort of look, and with the help of my friend Alex, who is a stylist on Elle Decoration, we dreamed up a scheme of armoires and chandeliers nestling amongst the trees and foliage, along with pianos stuffed with fresh flowers. As the plans escalated, so did my fears about English weather, and we ended up dropping the idea (the day dawned bright and hot, of course!). I have created a scaled-down version of this design since then, and it looked fantastic!
In the garden, less is definitely more. Don’t overdo the look and instead let nature speak for itself as much as possible – even the simplest scheme can look magical outside. You don’t need a mature, landscaped garden; even the most bland space can look brilliant with the right accessories. You can set up a tent outdoors and brighten up boring canvas with colourful throws or fringing. If you don’t have a tent, you can create one by hanging bedspreads and rugs over ropes suspended from branches. For special occasions, there are even companies who hire out vintage marquees of all sizes.
For more impromptu entertaining in the garden, just bring out tables and chairs and decorate them with pretty tablecloths and jam jars of freshly picked flowers, or spread rugs or floral quilts over the ground and cover them with scatter cushions of all different shapes and sizes. I think French wrought-iron tables look wonderful outside, but you can just bring out wooden chairs from the kitchen if that’s what you have. A little floral fabric bunting in the trees looks pretty during the day, and by night you can hang fairy lights or lanterns amongst the branches. If you don’t have trees, hang lights wherever you can and place lanterns on the floor around your rugs, and scatter tea lights over the table. Add in a campfire or a fire pit and a few friends and you will find you have stepped back in time to a perfect vintage picnic!
Bunting is great for outdoor parties. I like to put a vintage twist on the traditional variety with lace, tassels and vintage linens and handkerchiefs, all of which you can easily track down online, in charity shops or at antique fairs. Each of these designs makes 3m (3yd) of bunting with an extra 50cm (20in) tie at each end.
you will need
1m (1yd) each of three or four mismatched vintage fabrics, enough for 20 triangles
Card triangle template: 18 x 25 x 25cm (7 x 10 x 10in)
Dressmaker’s chalk
4m (13ft) bias tape
Sewing machine (optional)
3m (3yd) tasselled braid
1m (1yd) striped narrow ribbon
1 Lay out your fabrics, wrong side up, and place the template on top. Draw around the template with the dressmaker’s chalk. Repeat for twice as many flags as you need. This method uses 10 flags, so 20 triangles are needed; increase or decrease the number of flags depending on the length of bunting you wish to make.
2 For each flag, pin together two triangles with right sides facing. Stitch along the two longer sides taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, then turn through and press, turning in the seam allowance on the short edge.
3 Leaving about 50cm (20in) of bias tape free at each end for tying up, fold the bias tape in half and pin the flags along the bias at about 15cm (6in) intervals and between the two layers of the bias tape. Check the spacing by eye and tweak if necessary before stitching the flags to the tape using running stich, or use a sewing machine.
4 Pin and then stitch the tasselled braid to the bias tape over the front of the flags.
5 Cut the ribbon in half and stitch to each end of the bias tape to create a tie to hang the bunting.
you will need
About 12 mismatched vintage doilies
4m (13ft) vintage ivory braid
Sewing machine (optional)
1 Fold each doily in half and press with an iron, then place each one over the braid so it sits inside the fold. Because vintage doilies tend to be rather heavy, this helps keep them secure.
2 Spread the doilies evenly along the braid and pin into place. Leave about 50cm (20in) of the ivory braid free at each end for tying it up. Hold up the bunting and check the spacing by eye before you commit to sewing. Make any tweaks and then hand stitch the linens to the braid using running stitch or use a sewing machine.
3 To finish, stitch together the bottom of each doily for extra security.
you will need
About 8 mismatched square linen handkerchiefs
4m (4yd) black lace edging
Sewing machine (optional)
4 large black tassels
1 Fold the handkerchiefs corner to corner to create a triangle and press with an iron.
2 Leaving about 50cm (20in) of lace free at each end for tying up, pin the handkerchiefs along the lace, equally spaced, and check the spacing by eye. Then sew the handkerchiefs to the lace with running stitch or using a sewing machine.
3 Stitch together the bottom of each handkerchief for extra security. Then pin and sew the tassels to the bottom point of alternate flags.
