The right headboard can transform a bed, or even a whole bedroom. This luxurious padded headboard was such a success I decided to cover an ottoman in a similar way. You might choose to match the fabric of the headboard and the ottoman if they are in the same room.
you will need
Pre-cut headboard with any old coverings removed
Cordless drill with 5mm (¼in) drill bit
4oz density polyester quilting wadding: enough for a double layer across the headboard
Staple gun
Vintage fabric for the front of the headboard: enough to cover the front and just fold over onto the back
Narrow ballpoint pen
24mm (1in) diameter self-covering pronged upholstery buttons
Fabric for the back of the headboard: enough to cover the reverse of the headboard
Lace braid: enough to stick around the edge of the headboard
Hot glue gun
1 First, work out the spacing for your buttoning. Here the buttons are spaced 20cm (8in) apart and arranged in a diamond pattern. In order to do this you must first find the centre point of your headboard.
2 Working from the centre outwards, draw parallel horizontal and vertical lines every 10cm (4in). Then make a mark where lines cross, but only on alternating intersections to create the diamond effect. It is essential that your measurements are accurate, as even a slight error in the spacing will be noticeable.
3 Securing the headboard on two sturdy supports and following the manufacturer’s instructions, drill a 5mm (¼in) hole through the headboard at each mark on the grid.
4 Cover the front of the headboard with two layers of the wadding, wrapping it tightly over the sides. Staple it in place on the back. The more padding you use, the more sumptuous your buttoned headboard will look when it is finished.
5 Cut out the fabric for the front of the headboard and sew together widths if necessary. Lay it over the front of the wadding, taking the material over onto the reverse. Use the staple gun to fix the fabric in place.
6 Using the end of a narrow ballpoint pen, push it through the holes at the back of the headboard and through the wadding, and then mark and snip tiny holes in the covering fabric.
7 Cover the buttons following the manufacturer’s instructions, with either the same fabric or one that complements the main colour and fabric type you are using. For each button, remove the washer then press the prong through the fabric, wadding and the hole in the back of the headboard. Slide the washer over the prongs and spread them out to hold the button in place.
8 When you are satisfied that the buttons are secure, cut out the fabric for the back of the headboard, allowing 1.5cm (⅝in) seam allowance for turning in to create a neat finish. Mark on the fabric any holes or fixings that attach the headboard to the bed, then staple the fabric to the back of the headboard.
9 To finish, stick the braid around the edge of the headboard using the hot glue gun, and reattach any fixings.
I love the ottoman in my dressing room at home. An ottoman is perfect for a small space like this, because it offers both storage and somewhere to sit – and if you use a sumptuous velvet like the ottoman shown here, it will add a bit of glamour, too.
you will need
An old ottoman with a hinged top
Cordless drill with 5mm (¼in) drill bit
4oz density polyester quilting wadding: enough for a double layer across the lid of the ottoman
Staple gun
Vintage fabric to cover the ottoman: about 3m (3yd) was used for this ottoman
Narrow ballpoint pen
14 x 24mm (1in) diameter self-covering pronged upholstery buttons
Fabric to line the underside of the ottoman
Lining fabric: enough to line the inside of the ottoman
Lace braid: enough to stick around the edge of the ottoman
Hot glue gun
1 Take the top of the ottoman from the base by unscrewing the hinges and then follow Steps 1–7 for the headboard, to create the padded lid of the ottoman.
2 You now need to cover the outside of the main body of the ottoman. With the same material that you have used on the lid, measure all around the sides of the ottoman and also its height. Add an allowance to the length for a small overlap and also add an allowance to the height for folding the fabric into the inside of the ottoman and onto the underside for attaching it. If you do not have enough material for the width, then you will need to join two pieces together, ensuring that the pattern matches up, if there is one.
3 Starting at the centre back, staple the fabric into place. Fold it over the top rim and staple on the inside and also staple it on the underside. Continue stapling along the edges, alternating top and bottom. Ensure that the fabric is pulled taut but not too tight. When you reach the centre back, ensure that one piece of the material overlaps the other and is also turned in to give a finished edge.
4 To cover the underside of the ottoman to give it a neat finish, cut the material you wish to use to the appropriate dimensions, including a 1cm (½in) seam allowance. Turning in the 1cm (½in) allowance, staple it in place.
5 Turn over the ottoman so that you are now working with it the right way up, and measure the inside of the ottoman, which will include each of the four sides and the base, again allowing for a small turn-in. Starting with the base, staple the lining material into place and then staple each side individually, again making a turn in to ensure a neat finish.
6 Attach some braid to the inside edge of the base and the inside of the lid with a hot glue gun, to cover the staples and finish. Now, finally, all you need to do is fix the lid back into place using the original or replacement screws.
Now this is where you really need to get personal. Bedrooms are, perhaps more than any other room in your home, private spaces that reflect your taste and the type of style you feel most comfortable with – this is where you can really be you.
If you share your bedroom with a partner, you might need to discuss with them what kind of approach you both like – is the bedroom somewhere you find relaxing and restful, or perhaps sexy or glam? Over the years and with each house I have decorated, I think I have become increasingly bold with the design of my bedrooms. I started off with the simplest of styles – white walls and floors – and gave the room features and personality through details such as a mirrored chest of drawers and dressing table (so Marilyn Monroe), dyed lace panels and pretty cushions and bedspreads. The details are still there in my current bedroom, but now I’ve become more experimental with wallpaper and colour and I’m much happier with it as a statement of who I am and how I Iike my environment to be.
Again, the bedroom is a place where the overall design can be inspired by just one piece of furniture – a beautiful bedstead, a chest of drawers, a bedspread – anything you fall in love with and just know it has to have a place in your room. Work with that piece – if it’s a focal point, tone down everything else around it; if it’s quite simple, you might want to lift the room around it with patterned or colourful wallpaper, rugs, curtains and cushions. This is where you can use upcycling to your advantage; an old headboard can be given a new lease of life and identity with your favourite fabric – pretty florals or decadent velvets, or any other favourite fabric. Simple beds or vintage iron frames can be softened or glammed up with bedspreads, throws and cushions, and four-posters look magical with lace panels draped over the top of the frame – choose the look you want and pick your pieces accordingly.
Colour schemes are down to personal choice, but most people find a bedroom a more relaxing place to be with muted colours and not too many clashing shades or patterns. You can accessorise the walls with pictures, framed objects or by hanging lace dresses to add a vintage touch, adding more or less depending on how you want the room to look – less is sometimes more on papered walls, but there’s no rule.
I’m lucky enough to have a separate dressing room in my current house, but if you have wardrobes in your bedroom, make them part of the scheme too. In two of my previous homes I also had a roll-top bath in my bedroom – it made a really pretty feature, yet it could be hidden out of sight if need be with a floral-print screen. Ultimately, the bedroom is a private space, so make it the room of your dreams and let your imagination go wild.
Perfect for a child’s room or for princesses of any age, an everyday mosquito net can be easily and quickly upcycled with vintage lace to create a fairytale bed canopy. I suggest that you choose a café net fabric for this canopy, as it is available in suitable lengths, which means you have a pretty top and bottom edge already made for you.
you will need
Mosquito net bed canopy with support and overlay
White café net fabric with a 40cm (16in) drop (here, 3.5m/3½yd was used)
Sewing machine (optional)
2m (2yd) lace border
Ribbon or flower corsage, to finish
Hook, for hanging
1 Remove any decoration on the mosquito net (discard or add to your fabric stash) so that you are just left with the net and support.
2 Measure the circumference of the support and multiply the figure by 1.5 – this will be the length of the white café net fabric that you need.
3 Attach the net overlay to the support with a strong white cotton thread, passing the needle through the fabric and around the support. Pass the needle back through to the front of the fabric again. Continue binding the fabric and support together, gathering the fabric slightly as you work, until you have stitched all around the support. You may have some excess fabric left at the end, in which case trim it to fit so that you have a narrow overlap down the depth of the overlay. Stitch the raw edges together to finish with a running stitch or use a sewing machine.
4 Cut five lengths of the lace border to run from the top of the netting cone above the support to the support itself. Pin them to the mosquito net and then attach with running stitch. To hide the ends of the lace at the top, stitch on the ribbon or flower corsage.
5 Attach the canopy above the bed from a secure hook on the ceiling.
These beautiful appliqué lace butterflies transform this soft grey satin duvet cover; such a simple but effective way to upcycle tired bed linen (or a new set). Choose whatever fabrics and appliqué motifs you like according to the style of your bedroom. This method is for a double duvet but could be easily adapted for a single.
you will need
Butterfly template, or your own design
Bondaweb (fusible webbing): enough to make 2 large butterflies for the duvet cover and 1 small butterfly for each pillowcase
Complementary pieces of vintage fabric: enough to make 2 large butterflies for the duvet cover and 2 small butterflies for each pillowcase
Plain-coloured duvet cover and matching pillowcases
1 Enlarge the butterfly template on a photocopier to the desired size (note that the image on the pillowcases is smaller) and cut out. Alternatively, draw your own bold design onto paper and cut it out to make a template.
2 Lay the template over the paper side of the Bondaweb and draw around it before roughly cutting out. Repeat for however many butterflies (or similar) you wish to appliqué onto the bedding. Lay the appliqué fabric on your ironing board, right side down, and then place the trimmed Bondaweb on top of the appliqué with the adhesive side (the ‘rough’ side) facing the fabric. With a medium-hot iron, press the Bondaweb onto the fabric.
3 Once cool, neatly cut out the design. Peel off the paper layer of the Bondaweb, then position each appliqué motif on the duvet cover and pillowcases (you may want to play around with the positioning until you find the perfect combination), Bondaweb side down. Pin the butterflies to the duvet cover and pillowcases.
4 Spread the duvet cover on the ironing board. Lay a damp cloth over the top of each butterfly, then press them onto the duvet cover until they have bonded. This should only take a few seconds, but it’s always good to check the manufacturer’s instructions, too. Repeat with each pillowcase.
5 To finish, either leave the appliqué un-stitched or add a blanket stitch edging for decoration.
This is a very simple patchwork quilt that uses old fabrics: small offcuts to larger pieces in gypsy-inspired, rich, jewel colours, just neatly trimmed to shape. To get the look, you want a clash of colours and a random mix of patterns and shapes. If you aren’t the neatest sewer, don’t worry – wobbly stitching adds to the character of the quilt.
you will need
Assorted fabrics in various shapes and sizes: enough to make a 3m (3yd) square quilt
Sewing machine (optional)
3m (3yd) square sheet, blanket or other backing fabric
3m (3yd) square 4oz density polyester quilting wadding (optional)
Dressmaker’s chalk
1 Select your fabric pieces, making sure there is a range of colours, textures and patterns. Trim the fabric to squares and rectangles of various sizes, ensuring that they add up to an area roughly 3m (3yd) square, taking into account the 5mm (¼in) seam allowance on the edge of each piece of fabric.
2 On a large surface (a clean floor may work best), lay out the fabric face down into roughly a 3m (3yd) square to create your quilt pattern. Ensure the sizes are really mixed. Play around with the layout until you are happy with the design.
3 Working from the top row, place the first two patches on top of each other, right sides facing, pin (if necessary) and hand sew using neat little running stitches, or use a sewing machine. Stitch about 5mm (¼in) in from the edge to hem. Continue to the end of the row.
4 Repeat the method described using a jigsaw-style approach until the quilt is approximately 3m (3yd) square.
5 Spread out the patchwork on your work surface, face up, and lay the sheet, blanket or backing fabric on top, face down. Then lay the wadding on top of the sheet, blanket or backing fabric. Pin the layers together and sew around three sides, taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance. You might choose to continue stitching by hand or now start using a sewing machine.
6 Turn the three layers right side out, so the patchwork is now on the outside and the seams are hidden. Sew the final side together using slip stitch.
7 Working from the centre, pin the entire quilt at 20cm (8in) intervals using safety pins to hold all three layers in place. Using a long running stitch and contrasting colour of thread, hand sew rows every 20cm (8in) to quilt, if you wish. For a particularly luxurious feel, add hand-stitched patterns in a fine running stitch all over the quilt. Use dressmaker’s chalk to plan your pattern. For inspiration, search for embroidered quilting patterns online.
Vintage quilts and wool blankets are fairly affordable and easy to find, and are perfect, especially ones with holes or marks, for covering old chairs. This pattern incorporates a ruffled hem in a contrasting fabric and some simple ties for the back. You only need to cut out a few pieces of fabric, so believe me – it is a lot easier than it looks.
you will need
A vintage chair with a comfortable well-padded seat and no arms
Fabric for the seat, seat sides and front back (see dimensions)
Contrasting fabric for the back
Contrasting fabric for the ruffle
Sewing machine (optional)
Fabric or ribbons for the tie-backs: sufficient for 4 ties
1 Following the diagrams, take the following dimensions and add a 2cm (¾in) seam allowance to each one:
Seat: length (from the back to the front of the chair seat, with an extra 5cm (2in) to tuck behind the seat) x width: cut 1
Front back: length (from the top to the bottom of the back, with 5cm (2in) extra to tuck behind the seat) x width: cut 1
Seat sides: depth x length (from the outer edge of one back side round to the outer edge of the other back side): cut 1
Back sides: width (depth of back sides) x height (from the top to where the seat begins): cut 2
Back: length (from the top to the bottom of the seat sides) x two-thirds of the width of the back of the chair: cut 2
Ruffle: double the length of the seat sides x the width of the back pieces, so that you will end up with a full gather.
You may need to join several pieces of the fabric to make up the full length.
2 On each of the Back pieces, press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) along the overlapping sides. Stitch the hems close to the inside folded edge with a running stitch, or use a sewing machine.
3 With right sides facing, and taking a 2cm (¾in) seam allowance, pin and then stitch together the pieces in the following order:
A: Seat sides to Seat, leaving about 7.5cm (3in) unstitched at each end.
B: Back sides to Front back, leaving about 7.5cm (3in) unstitched at each end.
C: Seat sides to Back sides.
D: Back to Back sides.
4 Turn everything right side out, and you will have the basics of the chair cover. It does not need to be a tight fit and will look presentable being a little bit on the loose side.
5 You will be left with flaps at the back of the Seat and the bottom of the Front back, which can be tucked into the chair. Finish off those edges by hemming or folding some ribbon over the edge of the fabric, and stitch in place.
6 For the ruffle, press in 5mm (¼in) and then 1cm (½in) at each end and along the bottom edge with a loose stitch. Hem close to the inside folded edge. Gently pull the loose piece of thread at one end to make gathers. Pull up until the ruffle is the same length along the top edge as the bottom edge of the entire seat cover. With right sides facing, and taking a 2cm (¾in) seam allowance, pin and then stitch the ruffle to the cover.
7 Make two pairs of ties, with each strap about 40cm (16in) long (or cut similar lengths of ribbon), and stitch to the back pieces where they overlap. Tie the ties in a bow to secure the cover.
Having a dressing room is a real luxury, and something I’ve always dreamed about, but it has taken several house moves until I’ve had the space to fit one in. When we moved into our current house we had a funny walk-through space next to our bedroom, which was too small to be a properly functioning room, but it makes the perfect dressing room. So, of course, that’s what it became!
My favourite period is the 1920s, but the dressing room wasn’t really a feature of that period, so I didn’t have much inspiration to draw on when I finally got to create my version. Instead, I designed it around practicality and with my favourite look, which is probably the best starting point. Three of the walls are papered with a gorgeous vintage-inspired wallpaper featuring an antiqued English rose, and the remaining wall is covered with floor-to-ceiling wardrobes painted a deep blue.
I love seeing my clothes hanging up because they are all vintage, so I chose to have glass panels in my wardrobe doors – it lightens the room by breaking up the deep blue, but it also gives a tantalising glimpse of the beautiful vintage prints and accessories that hang behind. In previous houses I’ve just hung vintage dresses from rails set against the wall, which looks gorgeous, but if you worry that it looks a little temporary, you can make it look more deliberate by papering the wall behind it with your favourite print.
If you have wardrobes that are new or you don’t like the way they look, you can upcycle them to suit your style. Doors look great painted or with the panels taken out and replaced with glass or even lace panels so you get a hint of the clothes behind. If you have lots of wardrobe doors, you can soften the wall effect by adding pretty glass handles, or by hanging vintage dresses or scarves from the doors on velvet hangers.
No lady’s dressing room is complete without a dressing table, and this is the perfect spot for my favourite mirrored one. I bought it in 2001 from an antique shop in London and it has moved house with me several times – I could never part with it! Mine is original, but you can recreate the look by gluing mirrored glass to a plain table, or buy good replicas from vintage-style stores. In the middle of my room I have an ottoman, which is brilliant as somewhere to sit, and somewhere to lay out clothes. It looks lovely with a lace or a fringed shawl draped over it. A chaise longue would look good too, if you have the space. Remember that any furniture like this, including chairs, can be reupholstered with a fabric of your choice, or you can make covers for them, or dress them up with lace. Cover the table with vintage trinkets and boxes to keep your jewellery and beauty products in, to keep the period look going.
Tailors’ dummies covered in pretty floral fabrics also look gorgeous standing in a dressing room and, if you like, you can even use them for their practical purpose and hang dresses, shawls or stoles off them. You can pick these up in flea markets or even buy new ones and cover them with pretty prints.
Mirrors are of course especially useful in dressing rooms; you can make a feature of them or blend them in. If you have space, a vintage freestanding mirror can look beautiful, or you can replace a panel in a wardrobe door with a full-length piece of mirrored glass or put a mirror on the inside of the wardrobe door.
Good lighting is also important in a dressing room (it helps that you can see what you look like before you go out). I have a 1920s fringed standard lamp right next to my dressing table, but I also have the obligatory chandelier overhead. The whole look is glamorous and decadent and makes me feel like a movie star – the perfect place for enjoying a bit of that elusive me-time.
Add a little glamour to your bedroom (or any room) by upcycling a vintage-style screen. You can pick up real bargains in good condition online or at flea markets. Screens offer great solutions for modern living by hiding ugly storage or by sectioning rooms. Cover in contrasting fabrics for a bold look.
you will need
An old screen in good working condition
Sandpaper and paint of your choice (optional)
Fabric to cover each panel, both front and back
Staple gun
Braid, for edging: enough to run around the edge of each panel, both front and back
Hot glue gun
1 If necessary, prepare and paint the screen, ignoring the centre of the panels, as they are going to be covered in fabric.
2 Measure the width and height of each panel that you wish to cover and add 2cm (1in) allowance to each measurement.
3 Cut out the material and press in 1cm (½in) along each edge. Staple the fabric to the frame starting at the bottom of one panel, as close as possible to the bottom edge. Stretching the material as you go, work your way up the panel and along the top, stapling every 30cm (12in) until the front of the screen is covered. To make sure the material is taut, put further staples in the gaps to create a line of staples. Repeat for each panel, both front and back.
4 To disguise the staples, glue braid to the edges and bottom of each panel, both front and back, using the hot glue gun.
I picked up these old Edwardian drawers really cheaply at a local antique fair; with a bit of attention and a coat or two of my favourite chalk paint and wax, they are now fully restored and still full of character. To finish, I added cut-glass handles. The perfect finish really is all in the detail.
you will need
Chest of drawers in need of a bit of love
Sandpaper and your choice of paint
Dark or light wax, depending on the colour of your paint
Waxing brush
Cleaning cloth
Lint-free cloth
Wallpaper offcuts, for lining the drawers
Decorative handles
1 On a prepared work surface, remove the existing knobs of your chest of drawers and take out the drawers. Prepare all the exterior surfaces, including the drawers, and then paint them.
2 Leave the paint to dry, then apply the wax. The easiest way to do this is with a purpose-made waxing brush, especially for the more difficult-to-reach areas. Wipe the surfaces with a cloth to remove the excess.
3 Lightly rub the paintwork and wax in places with the lint-free cloth to give a slightly aged look, and replace the drawers.
4 Line the bottom of the drawers with wallpaper, and then finally add your handles.
I don’t like the idea of having all of my favourite items of jewellery closed away in a box or drawer, waiting for special occasions. With the exception of truly precious items I like to be able so see my necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets. This bohemian-style shadow box is the perfect way to show them off as well as keeping them organised.
you will need
3cm (1¼in) deep decorative or ornate picture frame, preferably with a stand on the back and/or a hook
Foam to cover the backing board, no thickerthan 5mm (¼in)
Fabric to cover the backing board
Hot glue gun
Heavy-duty picture hook (optional)
Decorative pins to hang the jewellery
1 Remove the glass from the picture frame and dispose of it safely. Remove the stiff board from the back of the picture frame, together with any tacks or tape if it is an old frame.
2 Use the board to measure and mark the foam, and cut to the same size. Lay the fabric over the board, centring the design if necessary, and also measure, mark and cut to the same size.
3 Using the hot glue gun, first stick the foam to the inside of the board and then stick the fabric onto the foam.
4 Put the board back into the frame and secure with the existing tacks. Hang the frame from a picture hook or sit it on the top of a dressing table. Add the decorative pins and your favourite pieces of jewellery to finish.
Add a bit of elegance to an everyday item with this simple velvet coat hanger. Padded hangers are great for hanging vintage dresses over mirrors or doors, adding a romantic touch to bedrooms and dressing rooms.
you will need
1m x 2.5cm (1yd x 1in) ribbon
Wooden coat hanger
Double-sided tape
Fabric offcuts (I have used velvet): enough to cover the hanger
4oz weight polyester quilting wadding: enough to cover the hanger
2 pins with decorative pearl heads
1 Cut a length of ribbon sufficient to cover the hook of the hanger (about 50cm/20in) and stick a length of double-sided tape on one side. Starting at the tip of the hook, tightly wind the ribbon around the hook until it is all covered, finishing where the hook goes into the hanger.
2 Measure the height of the wooden part of the coat hanger and multiply by four. Measure the length of the wooden part of the coat hanger and add 2cm (¾in). Mark out these measurements on the fabric and wadding and cut out. Cut a slit in the centre of one long edge of both pieces of material to reach the middle (see diagram).
3 Lay the wadding on your work surface and stick strips of double-sided tape along the top and bottom edges. Position the hanger in the centre of the fabric so that the amount of fabric that lies at the bottom equals the depth of the hanger. Then fold up the bottom edge of the wadding and stick it to the top edge of the hanger. Fold down the top edges of the wadding on either side of the hook, wrap it right around the hanger and stick it to the back of it at the top. Tuck in the excess fabric at each end and use slip stitches to close.
4 Repeat Step 3 with the covering fabric, but this time, don’t stick double-sided tape along the top edge. Wrap the fabric around the hanger as before, but for the back seam, fold under 1cm (½in) and slip stitch in place. Stitch the ends together.
5 With the remaining ribbon, make a large bow and stitch it to the cover where the hook goes into the hanger.
6 To finish, add the pearl-headed pins to the top of the hanger, to hold up your dresses if need be.
Lavender hearts not only smell heavenly but can also be decorative if made with beautiful fabrics and embellished with lace, beads or velvet ribbon. A simpler variation is to use scraps of vintage fabric for the heart and not worry about the lace layer.
you will need
Vintage velvet fabric
Lace offcut
Dressmaker’s chalk
Lace or velvet ribbon for each heart, to hang
Small amount of polyester stuffing
Small amount of dried lavender
Diamanté beads and buttons, to finish
1 Lay the fabric and lace on your work surface, right sides down. Photocopy the template, cut it out and then draw around it twice on both the fabric and lace using dressmaker’s chalk. Cut out the heart shapes.
2 Fold the ribbon in half, right sides out. Lay the hearts and ribbon loop on top of each other in the following order:
Lace heart
Ribbon loop with the loop in the ‘V’ at the top and the ends pointing towards the bottom of the heart
Lace heart
Ensure all edges are aligned and pin together.
3 Sew the layers together with a small running stitch, leaving a 1cm (½in) seam allowance (taking care to ensure the ribbon ends aren’t caught in the stitching). Stop about 2.5cm (1in) before you reach the end. Trim the seam and turn the heart right side out.
4 Insert plenty of stuffing and lavender so the heart is full and rounded, and slip stitch the gap closed. To personalise, stitch on some diamanté beads and/or buttons.
For me, mirrored Art Deco furniture is what my vintage style is all about. My love affair with this style of furniture started in 1996 when I was walking through Camden Market in London with Danny and my eldest daughter Daisy, when in a corner of one of the stalls I spotted a mirrored 1920s bar.
It was possibly one of the most beautiful and decadent things I had ever seen, and unfortunately it was not only completely out of our price range, but we also had nowhere to put it. However, in 2000 I was passing another market when I noticed a gorgeous mirrored chest of drawers. It was simply stunning. Being the impulsive person that I am, I went in and asked if I could buy it and get it delivered that day. It was, and it has remained, one of my favourite pieces of furniture that I have ever owned. In fact, my love for mirrored furniture has continued, as I have since bought a gorgeous 1920s dressing table from an antique shop as well as a side table on eBay and a sweet jewellery box that I found in a local junk shop.
The Art Deco movement originated in Europe – most popularly in Paris – in around 1908, but really took hold after the First World War and dominated as THE style until just before the outbreak of the Second World War. In the 1950s, the furniture became increasingly popular again when celebrities like Marilyn Monroe were photographed with pieces in their homes. Hollywood caught the bug, and soon mirrored furniture was appearing on sets on television and on the big screen. By the 1980s, the popularity of this type of furniture had decreased, mainly because of the low-quality mirrors that manufacturers were using, but since then this has changed and the style has been enjoying a revival.
The style just oozes glamour and aspirational living. Angular, geometric furniture was made from chrome, glass and mirror tiles, or using rich woods patterned with motifs (particularly sunburst ones) or inlaid with exotic materials such as ebony. Art Deco is an indulgent style that is all about elegance and drama and less about practicality – and it is gorgeous.
Authentic mirrored Art Deco pieces can be pricey, as they are becoming increasingly rare and so harder to get hold of. Equally, however, they do hold their value well so they are a good investment; if you can afford a piece – and you take good care of it – you can sometimes even make a profit. Fortunately, because this furniture is carefully and meticulously crafted and each piece demands your attention, you only need one or two pieces in one room. If the originals are a little out of your price range, then you can find lots of reproductions in vintage-style homeware stores. If these are still too expensive for you, try getting an old chest of drawers and covering it in pieces of mirror. I did this in my mint-green 1950s caravan and it looked unbelievably authentic. I have also covered an old coffee table in mirror and everyone who saw it was quite shocked that it wasn’t an original.
Mirrored furniture comes in a variety of styles that are suitable for the living room, bedroom and even the bathroom. Using this furniture to decorate your home is a wonderful way of bringing elegance and sophistication to the plainest of rooms. For the best impact, though, keep everything around the furniture simple; mirrored pieces in particular look best in white rooms, although if you do want colour, floral wallpapers are fine; keep patterns small, though, and colours knocked back so they don’t draw the eye away. Popular colours of the time were creams, pale greens, beige and oyster to emphasise the dark wood and chrome, but because there was also a real craze for travel in the early 20th century – which meant animal skins and mother-of-pearl were really popular – Art Deco furniture looks great with leopard and other safari prints. In my bedroom I have a leopard-print chair at my mirrored dressing table, whereas in a previous bedroom I let my mirrored furniture steal the show, setting it against white-painted walls and a wooden floor with only grey lace curtains and a silvery grey bedspread to break up the white look.
This furniture was originally designed to sit against polished wooden parquet floors or black and white tiles, but if you really must have carpet, go for as neutral a colour as possible, or get an original Art Deco rug or replica style, or perhaps go for a shaggy pale rug. As with everything else, stick to simple, unfussy lighting; keep lamps to a minimum and go for less dramatic chandeliers and lampshades – although 1920s fringed shades always look great.
I often get bored with furniture and sell it on, but I can honestly say that I’d like to pass down my mirrored Art Deco furniture pieces to my children, and I won’t be selling them any time soon.
This simple idea using self-adhesive vinyl is an afforable way to enhance lampshades or chandeliers. You can also make small self-adhesive vinyl wall decorations.
you will need
Ceiling rose template, or your own design
Self-adhesive matt vinyl
Craft knife
Cutting mat
Soft cloth
1 Enlarge the template on a photocopier to the desired size and cut out two copies. If you are designing your own template, I recommend splitting it into two halves, like the one in this book, and making sure that you leave enough room in the centre for the light fitting.
2 Lay the vinyl face down on your work surface and draw around the template. Carefully cut out the shape using the craft knife on a cutting mat.
3 Before applying the vinyl to the ceiling, make sure the surface is free from grease and completely dry. Then gently peel the backing off the vinyl and carefully place the sticker in the correct position, lightly sticking down the edges first. Once the vinyl is stuck to the ceiling, it can be moved, but only slightly. You may need an extra pair of hands to help here.
4 Using a soft cloth, wipe over the vinyl to remove any air bubbles, starting at the middle and moving out to the edges.
you will need
Self-adhesive matt vinyl
Craft knife
Cutting mat
Pencil
Spirit level
Soft cloth
1 Photocopy the template, resize if desired and cut it out. If you are using your own design, draw it on some paper and cut it out. When choosing the ideal place for your wall art, place the design against the wall to get a feel for the height and spacing.
2 Lay the vinyl face down on your work surface and draw around the template. Very carefully cut out the shape using the craft knife and cutting mat.
3 Before applying the vinyl to the wall, make sure the surface is free from grease and completely dry; non-textured surfaces are best. Mark the wall with a pencil where you want to stick the shapes, using a spirit level if necessary.
4 Gently peel the backing off the vinyl and carefully place the sticker in the correct position. Lightly stick the edges down first to ensure it is accurately positioned. Once the vinyl is stuck to the wall, it can be moved, but only slightly.
5 Using a soft cloth, wipe over the vinyl to remove any air bubbles, starting at the middle and moving to the outer edges.
I’ve always loved decorating my kids’ rooms. When they were much younger I could really go to town and create something magical for them, but even now that they have an opinion and their own style, they still like the uniqueness that they get from a vintage look.
The sex of your child is key to the design of a room. When they are babies, you can get away with a more feminine feel, but as boys in particular get bigger they are not so keen on lots of lace and pastel colours! When my boys were small, I decorated their room in white – white walls, white floorboards, white ceiling, and I even painted matching old antique iron hospital beds white. To introduce some warmth to the scheme, I dyed lace panels royal blue for their windows and painted their chandelier the same colour to match. It looked ever so sweet. I did the same for my daughter Daisy’s room, but using a shocking pink dye for the lace curtain and pink glass paint for the chandelier.
Since then I’ve discovered wallpaper, which makes a great alternative to paint. The boys’ rooms don’t have wallpaper on the walls, just bright paint, but I have papered the ceiling with a star wallpaper, which makes it really cosy. I’ve also painted their wardrobe doors too to add further interest to the room.
Colour aside, the other crucial element in any child’s room is storage. Kids are messy, let’s face it, and they have a lot of stuff, which changes as they grow up. When they were younger I lined shelves with cheap baskets that I spray painted in fun colours, so I could just scoop up their toys at the end of the day and get them out of the way and out of sight. Wardrobes are good too, not only for clothes but also for hiding storage boxes. I’ve collected antique fairy costumes and dresses over the years, which I hang on wardrobes around the room, and they looked especially pretty in the girls’ rooms – before they became tomboys!
I’ve always enjoyed finding little trinkets to make the children’s rooms look original and give them personality; in particular antique dolls, teddy bears and old pictures to add to the vintage look. I have a real passion for cabinets, too, which I paint or decorate with pretty handles or fabric panels. Depending on their size they are great for storing books, notepads, trinkets and other bits and bobs, and they will last a long time as they will always be useful, even as the child gets older and needs somewhere to store different things. You can also update their look as the child forms his or her own personality and style by simply painting them again.
As they get to a certain age, kids need a workspace; girls love dressing tables when they are young to play dressing up, but then they double up well as desks for homework later on. My new obsession is old writing desks. Victorian ones are a particular passion of mine, and they are great to paint and put vintage fabric inside. You can make new or vintage desks fit into the décor or create a focal point – whichever you prefer – by painting them white in a coloured room, or in a vibrant colour in a white room. Chairs are a must for a child’s bedroom, whether to set at a desk or a dressing table, or simply just as a feature in the room. In the house we’re in now, I’ve collected vintage children’s chairs in all different colours and styles and an antique distressed table for my daughter Betty and her friends to sit at. Chairs also look great with a vintage cushion or toy on them.
The key thing to decorating a child’s room in a vintage style is, of course, safety. If old furniture is damaged or splintered, a child’s room is probably not the best place for it, unless you can sand down the rough bits. If something is delicate, too, it won’t last five minutes in a small child’s room, so you are better off saving yourself the heartache of seeing a beautiful thing ruined by finding another home for it or giving it to them when they are old enough to look after it.
