Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Wines
“There are treasures to carry away in this land, which has not found a spokesman worthy of the riches it offers.”
—Paul Cézanne
This magnificent region is shaped like a giant wedge of quiche. From its sunburned crust, fanning out along the Mediterranean coast from the Camargue to Marseille, it stretches north along the Rhône Valley to Orange. The Romans were here in force and left many ruins—some of the best anywhere. Seven popes, artists such as Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cézanne, and author Peter Mayle all enjoyed their years in Provence. This destination features a splendid recipe of arid climate, oceans of vineyards, dramatic scenery, lively cities, and adorable hill-capping villages.
Explore the ghost town that is ancient Les Baux, and see France’s greatest Roman ruins, the Pont du Gard aqueduct and the theater in Orange. Admire the skill of ball-tossing boules players in small squares in every Provençal village and city. Spend a few Van Gogh-inspired starry, starry nights in Arles. Youthful but classy Avignon bustles in the shadow of its brooding Palace of the Popes. Stylish and self-confident Aix-en-Provence lies 30 minutes from the sea and feels more Mediterranean. It’s a short hop from Arles or Avignon into the splendid scenery and villages of the Côtes du Rhône and Luberon regions. To properly understand southern France, day-trip into gritty Marseille, and if you prefer a Provençal beach fix, find Cassis, just east of Marseille.
With limited time, make Arles or Avignon your sightseeing base—particularly if you have no car. Italophiles prefer smaller Arles, while poodles pick urban Avignon. Many enjoy nights in both cities. (With a car, head for St. Rémy or the hill towns.)
Arles has a blue-collar quality; the entire city feels like Van Gogh’s bedroom. It also has this region’s best-value hotels and is handy to Les Baux, St. Rémy, and the Camargue.
Avignon—double the size of Arles—feels sophisticated, with more nightlife and shopping. Avignon makes a good base for non-drivers thanks to its convenient public-transit options (within an hour, you can reach Pont du Gard, Uzès, and St. Rémy by bus, or Marseille by train; within a half-hour, you can reach Arles, Nîmes, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and Aix-en-Provence by train).
Or, for drivers who prefer a smaller-town base, St. Rémy is manageable and central. It offers a nice range of hotels with free and easy parking, good restaurants, and a few sights of its own. The towns of Vaison la Romaine (in the Côtes du Rhône region) and Roussillon (in the Luberon) are two good but remote hill-town options.
The bare minimum you should spend in Provence is three days: one day for sightseeing in Arles and Les Baux (Arles is best on Wed or Sat, when it’s market day); a day for Pont du Gard and Nîmes; and a full day for Orange and the Côtes du Rhône villages. Add two more days to explore Avignon; Uzès or St. Rémy; and more Provençal villages. Allow an additional two days in Cassis, using one of them for a day trip to Marseille or Aix-en-Provence (or both). Ideally, see the cities—Arles, Nîmes, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, and Marseille—by train, then rent a car for the countryside.
To measure the pulse of rural Provence, spend at least a few nights in the smaller towns. (They come to life on market days, but can be quiet on Mondays, when shops are shuttered tight.) I’ve described many towns in the Côtes du Rhône and Luberon. The Côtes du Rhône is ideal for wine connoisseurs and an easy stop for those heading to or from the north. The Luberon is for hill-town lovers and works well for travelers heading east, toward Aix-en-Provence or the Riviera. Don’t day-trip to these very different areas; Provençal village evenings are what books are written about. Spending one or two nights in each area makes for a terrific start.
The small port town of Cassis is a marvelous Mediterranean meander between Provence and the Riviera (and more appealing than most Riviera resorts). It has easy day-trip connections to Marseille and Aix-en-Provence.
Depending on the length of your trip, here are my recommended priorities for Provence:
Resources: Imagine Tours (near Avignon) offers free assistance to travelers. They can work with you to plan your itinerary, book hotels, or help you deal with problems that might arise during your trip (for contact information, see here).
Travel writer Mary Dowey’s website reveals her favorite discoveries in Provence over many years of research—including restaurants, hotels, food and wine producers, shops, and markets (www.provencefoodandwine.com).
Cruise-Ship Sightseeing: Cruise lines that visit Provence call at either Marseille or Toulon (about 40 miles east of Marseille). Public-transit options are limited—with a short day, only Marseille, Cassis, and Aix-en-Provence are doable this way. (If docking at Marseille, it’s possible to visit Avignon or Arles—but only if you have a long day in port.) If you want to journey beyond the immediate area and/or connect several worthwhile sights in one busy day, consider joining a cruise-line excursion, hiring a driver or guide (such as Mike Rijken’s Wine Safari—listed later), or renting a car. For more details on arriving in this region by cruise ship, see here. If your trip includes cruising beyond Provence, consider my guidebook, Rick Steves’ Mediterranean Cruise Ports.
By Bus or Train: Public transit is good between cities and decent to some towns, but marginal at best to the smaller villages. Frequent trains link Avignon, Arles, and Nîmes (no more than 30 minutes between each). Avignon has good train connections with Orange and adequate service to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Marseille is well-connected to all cities in Provence, with frequent service to Cassis (25 minutes) and Aix-en-Provence (45 minutes).
Buses connect many smaller towns, though service can be sporadic. From Arles you can catch a bus to Les Baux (high season only), Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer (in the Camargue), or St. Rémy. From Avignon, you can bus to Pont du Gard, St. Rémy, Uzès, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (also by train), and less easily to the Côtes du Rhône villages. St. Rémy, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and Uzès are the most accessible and interesting small towns. Vaison la Romaine—my favorite village—is an easy bus ride from Orange (with fast and frequent train connections to Avignon). A visit here works well with a tour of Orange’s Roman Theater.
While a tour of the villages of the Côtes du Rhône or Luberon is best on your own by car, excellent minivan tours and basic bus excursions are available. (TIs in Arles and Avignon have information on bus excursions to regional sights that are hard to reach sans car; see “Tours of Provence,” later.)
By Car: The region is made to order for a car. Orange Michelin map #527 (1:275,000 scale) covers this book perfectly. Michelin maps #332 (Luberon and Côtes du Rhône) and #340 (Arles area) are also worth considering. I’ve described key sights and a variety of full-day drives deep into the countryside. Be wary of thieves: Park only in well-monitored spaces and leave nothing valuable in your car.
Avignon (pop. 110,000) is a headache for drivers. Arles (pop. 52,000) is easier but still challenging. Les Baux and St. Rémy work well from Arles or Avignon (or vice versa). Nîmes and Pont du Gard are a short hop west of Avignon and on the way to or from Languedoc. The town of Orange ties in tidily with a trip to the Côtes du Rhône villages and with destinations farther north. If you’re heading north from Provence, consider a three-hour detour through the spectacular Ardèche Gorges (see here). The Luberon villages are about halfway between Arles or Avignon and Aix-en-Provence (little Lourmarin works as a base for day trips to Aix-en-Provence). And if you’re continuing on to the Riviera, let yourself be lured into the Grand Canyon du Verdon detour (see the Inland Riviera chapter). Most drivers will prefer exploring congested Marseille on foot—take the train from Cassis or Aix-en-Provence (both towns have parking at their train stations with frequent trains and buses to the center of Marseille).
It’s possible to take half-day or full-day excursions to most of the sights in Provence (best from Avignon). Most TIs have brochures on day trips and can help you make a reservation. Here are several top options to consider (in Avignon, most tours can pick you up at your hotel, the TI, or at either of the city’s train stations):
Wine Safari—Dutchman Mike Rijken runs a one-man show, taking travelers through the region he adopted more than 20 years ago. Mike came to France to train as a chef, later became a wine steward, and has now found his calling as a driver/guide. His English is fluent, and though his focus is on wine and wine villages, Mike knows the region thoroughly and is a good teacher of its history (€60/half-day, €110/day, priced per person, group size varies from 2 to 6; pickups possible in Arles, Avignon, Lyon, Marseille, or Aix-en-Provence; tel. 04 90 35 59 21, mobile 06 19 29 50 81, www.winesafari.net, mikeswinesafari@wanadoo.fr).
Local Guides—Celine Viany is a retired wine sommelier turned charming tour guide. She’s an easy-to-be-with expert on her region and its chief product (tel. 04 90 46 90 80, mobile 06 76 59 56 30, www.levinalabouche.com, contact@degustation-levinalabouche.com). Art historian Daniela Wedel eagerly shares her passion for the history, food, wine, and people of Avignon and the surrounding area (Aix-en-Provence, the Luberon, Arles, Marseille), and organizes personalized excursions for her clients (approximately €160/half-day, €270/day, price varies depending on itinerary and number of people, mobile 06 43 86 30 83, daniela@treasure-europe.com).
See “Top 10 Provençal Towns and Villages”
Avignon Wine Tour—For a playful and distinctly French perspective on wines of the Côtes du Rhône region, contact François Marcou, who runs his tours with passion and energy, offering different itineraries every day (€75/person for all-day wine tours that include 4-5 tastings, €350 for private groups, mobile 06 28 05 33 84, www.avignon-wine-tour.com, avignon.wine.tour@modulonet.fr).
Imagine Tours—Unlike most tour operators, this nonprofit organization focuses on cultural excursions, offering low-key, personalized tours that allow visitors to discover the “true heart of Provence and Occitania.” The itineraries are adapted to your interests, and the guides will meet you at your hotel or the departure point of your choice (€170/half-day, €295/day, prices are for up to 4 people starting from the region around Avignon or Arles, mobile 06 89 22 19 87, fax 04 90 24 84 26, www.imagine-tours.net, imagine.tours@gmail.com). They are also happy to help you plan your itinerary, book hotel rooms, or address other traveler issues.
WineInProvence—This Aix-en-Provence-based outfit runs half-day and full-day wine tours covering Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the lesser-known areas around Aix-en-Provence, Bandol, and Cassis (€160/half-day, €250/day with lunch included, prices are per person, mobile 06 47 30 77 31, www.wineinprovence.com, contact@wineinprovence.com). See listing on here.
Wine Uncovered—Passionate and engaging Englishman Olivier Hickman takes small groups on focused tours of selected wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the villages near Vaison la Romaine. Olivier is serious about French wine and knows his subject matter inside and out. His in-depth tastings include a half-day tour of two or three wineries—the Châteauneuf-du-Pape tour is especially popular. If you need transportation, he can help arrange it (€55/person, minimum 2 people, see website for full- and multiple-day rates, mobile 06 75 10 10 01, www.wine-uncovered.com, olivier.hickman@wine-uncovered.com).
Visit Provence—This company runs day tours from Avignon, Arles, and Marseille. Tours from Avignon run year-round and include a great variety of destinations; tours from Arles and Marseille run April through September only and are more limited (check their website for current destinations). While these tours provide introductory commentary to what you’ll see, there is no guiding at the actual sights. They use eight-seat, air-conditioned minivans (about €60-80/half-day, €100-120/day; they’ll pick you up at your hotel in Avignon, at the main TI in Arles, or at the TI in Marseille). Ask about their cheaper big-bus excursions, or consider hiring a van and driver for your private use (plan on €220/half-day, €490/day, tel. 04 90 14 70 00, www.provence-reservation.com).
Madeleine’s Culinary and Active Adventures—Madeleine Vedel, an effervescent American expat, plans small group tours from Avignon and Arles to visit food artisans and wineries. Madeleine also leads kid-friendly hikes in the countryside (€400/day for a full day with winery visits, less if no wineries, flat rate for 1-5 people; mobile 06 88 50 03 62, www.cuisineprovencale.com).
Provence is littered with Roman ruins. Many scholars claim the best-preserved ancient Roman buildings are not in Italy, but in France. These ancient stones will compose an important part of your sightseeing agenda in this region, so it’s worth learning about how they came to be.
Classical Rome endured from about 500 B.C. through A.D. 500—spending about 500 years growing, 200 years peaking, and 300 years declining. Julius Caesar conquered Gaul—which included Provence—during the Gallic Wars (58-51 B.C.), then crossed the Rubicon River in 49 B.C. to incite civil war within the Roman Republic. He erected a temple to Jupiter on the future site of Paris’ Notre-Dame Cathedral.
See “Top 10 Roman Sights in Provence”
The concept of one-man rule lived on with his grandnephew, Octavian (whom he had also adopted as his son). Octavian killed Brutus, eliminated his rivals (Mark Antony and Cleopatra), and united Rome’s warring factions. He took the title “Augustus” and became the first in a line of emperors who would control Rome for the next 500 years—ruling like a king, with the backing of the army and the rubber-stamp approval of the Senate. Rome morphed from a Republic into an Empire: a collection of many diverse territories ruled by a single man.
Augustus’ reign marked the start of 200 years of peace, prosperity, and expansion known as the Pax Romana. At its peak (c. A.D. 117), the Roman empire had 54 million people and stretched from Scotland in the north to Egypt in the south, as far west as Spain and as far east as modern-day Iraq. To the northeast, Rome was bounded by the Rhine and Danube Rivers. On Roman maps, the Mediterranean was labeled Mare Nostrum (“Our Sea”). At its peak, “Rome” didn’t just refer to the city, but to the entire civilized Western world.
The Romans were successful not only because they were good soldiers, but also because they were smart administrators and businessmen. People in conquered territories knew they had joined the winning team and that political stability would replace barbarian invasions. Trade thrived. Conquered peoples were welcomed into the fold of prosperity, linked by roads, education, common laws and gods, and the Latin language.
Provence, with its strategic location, benefited greatly from Rome’s global economy and grew to become an important part of its worldwide empire. After Julius Caesar conquered Gaul, Emperor Augustus set out to Romanize it, building and renovating cities in the image of Rome. Most cities had a theater (some had several), baths, and aqueducts; the most important cities had sports arenas. The Romans also erected an elaborate infrastructure of roads, post offices, schools (teaching in Latin), police stations, and water-supply systems.
With a standard language and currency, Roman merchants were able to trade wine, salt, and olive oil for foreign goods. The empire invested heavily in cities that were strategic for trade. For example, the Roman-built city of Arles was a crucial link in the trade route from Italy to Spain, so they built a bridge across the Rhône River and fortified the town.
A typical Roman city (such as Nîmes, Arles, Orange, or Vaison la Romaine) was a garrison town, laid out on a grid plan with two main roads: one running north-south (the cardus), the other east-west (the decumanus). Approaching the city on your chariot, you’d pass by the cemetery, which was located outside of town for hygienic reasons. You’d enter the main gate and speed past warehouses and apartment houses to the town square (forum). Facing the square were the most important temples, dedicated to the patron gods of the city. Nearby, you’d find bathhouses; like today’s fitness clubs, these served the almost sacred dedication to personal vigor. Also close by were businesses that catered to the citizens’ needs: the marketplace, bakeries, banks, and brothels.
Aqueducts brought fresh water for drinking, filling the baths, and delighting the citizens with bubbling fountains. Men flocked to the stadiums in Arles and Nîmes to bet on gladiator games; eager couples attended elaborate plays at theaters in Orange, Arles, and Vaison la Romaine. Marketplaces brimmed with exotic fruits, vegetables, and animals from the far reaches of the empire. Some cities in Provence were more urban 2,000 years ago than they are today. For instance, Roman Arles had a population of 100,000—double today’s size. Think about that when you visit.
In these cities, you’ll see many rounded arches. These were constructed by piling two stacks of heavy stone blocks, connecting them with an arch (supported with wooden scaffolding), then inserting an inverted keystone where the stacks met. Voilà! The heavy stones were able to support not only themselves, but also a great deal of weight above the arch. The Romans didn’t invent the rounded arch, but they exploited it better than their predecessors, stacking arches to build arenas and theaters, stringing them side by side for aqueducts, stretching out their legs to create barrel-vaulted ceilings, and building freestanding “triumphal” arches to celebrate conquering generals.
When it came to construction, the Romans’ magic building ingredient was concrete. A mixture of volcanic ash, lime, water, and small rocks, concrete—easier to work than stone, longer-lasting than wood—served as flooring, roofing, filler, glue, and support. Builders would start with a foundation of brick, then fill it in with poured concrete. They would then cover important structures, such as basilicas, in sheets of expensive marble (held on with nails), or decorate floors and walls with mosaics—proving just how talented the Romans were at turning the functional into art.
Provence has been called France’s “garden market,” featuring farm-fresh food (vegetables, fruit, and meats) prepared in a simple way, and meant to be savored with family and friends. Grilled foods are common, as are dishes derived from lengthy simmering—in part a reflection of long days spent in the fields. Colorful and lively, Provençal cuisine hammers the senses with an extravagant use (by French standards) of garlic, olive oil, and herbs. Order anything à la provençal, and you’ll be rewarded with aromatic food heightened by rich and pungent sauces. Thanks to the proximity of the Riviera, many seafood dishes show up on Provençal menus (see “The Riviera’s Cuisine Scene” on here).
Unlike other French regional cuisines, the food of Provence is inviting for nibblers. Appetizers (hors d’oeuvres) often consist of bowls of olives (try the plump, full-flavored black tanche or the green, buttery picholine), as well as plates of fresh vegetables served with lusty sauces ready for dipping. These same sauces adorn dishes of hard-boiled eggs, fish, or meat. Look for tapenade, a paste of pureed olives, capers, anchovies, herbs, and sometimes tuna. True anchovy-lovers dig into anchoïade (a spread of garlic, anchovy, and parsley) or bagna cauda (a warm sauce of anchovies and melted butter or olive oil).
Aioli—a rich, garlicky mayonnaise spread over vegetables, potatoes, fish, or whatever—is another Provençal favorite. In the summertime, entire village festivals celebrate this sauce. Watch for signs announcing aioli monstre (“monster aioli”) and, for a few euros, dive into a deeply French eating experience (pass the breath mints, please).
Despite the heat, soup is a favorite in Provence. Soupe au pistou is a thin yet flavorful vegetable soup with a sauce (called pistou) of basil, garlic, and cheese—pesto minus the pine nuts. Or try soupe à l’ail (garlic soup, called aigo bouido in the Provençal dialect). For details on seafood soups, see here.
Provençal main courses venerate fresh vegetables and meats. (Eat seafood on the Riviera and meat in Provence.) Ratatouille is a mixture of Provençal vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, onions, and peppers are the usual suspects) in a thick, herb-flavored tomato sauce. It’s readily found in charcuteries and often served at room temperature, making it the perfect picnic food. Ratatouille veggies also show up on their own, stuffed and served in spicy sauces. Look for aubergines (eggplants), tomates (tomatoes), poivrons (sweet peppers), and courgettes (zucchini—especially fleurs de courgettes, stuffed and batter-fried zucchini flowers). Tians are gratin-like vegetable dishes named for the deep terra-cotta dish in which they are cooked and served. Artichauts à la barigoule are stuffed artichokes flavored with garlic, ham, and herbs (barigoule is from the Provençal word for thyme, farigoule). Also look for riz de Camargue—the reddish, chewy, nutty-tasting rice that has taken over the Camargue area, a marshy region that is otherwise useless for agriculture.
The famous herbs of Provence influence food long before it’s cooked. The locally renowned lambs of the garrigue (shrub-covered hills), as well as rabbits and other small edible beasts in Provence, dine on wild herbs and spicy shrubs—effectively preseasoning their delicate meat. Regional specialties include lamb (agneau, most often leg of lamb, gigot d’agneau), grilled and served no-frills, or the delicious lapin à la provençale—rabbit served with garlic, mustard, tomatoes, and herbs in white wine. Locals have a curious passion for quail (caille). These tiny, bony birds are often grilled and served with any variety of sauces, including those sweetened with Provençal cherries or honey and lavender. Daube, named for the traditional cooking vessel daubière, is generally beef simmered in wine with spices and herbs—and perhaps a touch of orange zest—until it is spoon-tender; it’s then served with noodles or the local rice. Taureau (bull’s meat), usually raised in the marshy Camargue, melts in your mouth.
By American standards, the French undercook meats: bleu (bluh) is virtually raw (just flame-kissed); saignant (seh-nyahn) is close to raw; à point (ah pwahn)—their version of “medium”—is rare; and bien cuit (bee-yehn kwee, “well cooked”) is medium. (Because French cows are raised on grass rather than corn, the beef is leaner than in the US, so limiting the cooking time keeps the meat tender.)
There are a few dishes to avoid: Pieds et paquets is a scary dish of sheep’s feet and tripe (no amount of Provençal sauce can hide this flavor). Tourte de blettes is a confused “pie” made with Swiss chard; both savory and sweet, it can’t decide whether it should be a first course or dessert (it shows up as both).
Eat goat cheese (fromage de chèvre) in Provence. Look for banon de banon or banon à la feuille (dipped in eau-de-vie to kill bad mold, then wrapped in a chestnut leaf), spicy picodon (the name means “spicy” in the old language), or the fresh, creamy brousse du Rove (often served mixed with cream and sugar for dessert). On Provençal cheese platters, you’ll find small rounds of bite-size chèvres, each flavored with a different herb or spice—and some even rolled in chopped garlic (more breath mints, please).
Desserts tend to be light and fruit-filled, or traditionally French. Treat yourself to fresh tarts made with seasonal fruit, Cavaillon melons (served cut in half with a trickle of the sweet Rhône wine Beaumes de Venise), and ice cream or sorbet sweetened with honey and flavored with various herbs such as lavender, thyme, or rosemary.
Provence saw the first grapes planted in France, in about 600 B.C., by the Greeks. Romans built on what the Greeks started, realizing 2,000 years ago that Provence had an ideal climate for producing wine: mild winters and long, warm summers (but not too hot—thanks to the cooling winds).
This sun-baked, wine-happy region offers Americans a chance to sample wines blended from several grapes—resulting in flavors unlike anything we get at home (yes, we have good Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and Pinot Noirs, but Rhône wines are new to many of us). Provence’s shorts-and-T-shirt climate and abundance of hearty, reasonably priced wines make for an enjoyable experience, particularly if you’re willing to learn. See “Provençal Wine-Tasting 101,” later, for the basics.
In France, wine production is strictly controlled by the government to preserve the overall quality. This ensures that vintners use specified grapes that grow best in that region and follow certain grape-growing procedures. The Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) label found on many bottles is the government’s seal of approval indicating that a wine has met a series of requirements. The type and percentages of grapes used, vinification methods, and taste are all controlled and verified.
Provençal vintners can blend wines using a maximum of 13 different types of grapes (five white and eight red)—unique in France. Only in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are all 13 grapes used; most vintners blend four or five types of grapes. (In Burgundy and Alsace, only one grape variety is used for each wine—so Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Tokay, and Pinot Gris are each 100 percent from that grape.) This blending allows Provençal winemakers great range in personalizing their wine. The most prevalent types of red grapes are Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault. The white grapes include Grenache-Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc, and Clairette.
There are three primary growing areas in Provence: Côtes du Rhône, Côtes de Provence, and Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. A few wines are also made along the Provençal Mediterranean coast. All regions produce rich, fruity reds and dry, fresh rosés. Only about five percent of wine produced here is white (the best of which comes from Cassis and Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Most Provençal whites are light, tart, with plenty of citrus and minerals, and work best as a pre-dinner drink or in a kir.
In Provence, I generally drink rosé instead of white. Don’t confuse these rosés with the insipid blush stuff sometimes found in the US; French rosé is often crisp and fruity, a perfect match to the hot days and Mediterranean cuisine. Rosé wines are made from red grapes. After the grapes are crushed, their clear juice is left in contact with their dark-red skins just long enough to produce the pinkish color (no more than 24 hours). Rosés from Tavel (20 minutes north and west of Avignon) are the darkest in color and most well-known outside of Provence, but you’ll find many good producers at affordable prices in other areas as well. If you’re unaccustomed to drinking rosés, try one here.
The American wine-tasting experience (I’m thinking Napa Valley) is generally informal, chatty, and entrepreneurial (logo-adorned baseball caps and golf shirts). Although Provençal vintners are welcoming and more easygoing than in other parts of France, it’s still a serious, wine-focused experience. Your hosts are not there to make small talk, and they’re likely to be “all business.” For some people, it can be overwhelming to try to make sense of the vast range of options among Provençal wines, particularly when faced with a no-nonsense winemaker or sommelier. Take a deep breath, do your best to follow my instructions, and move on if you don’t feel welcome (I’ve tried to identify which places are most accepting of wine novices). Visit several private wineries or stop by a cave coopérative—an excellent opportunity to taste wines from a number of local vintners in a single, less intimidating setting. You’ll have a better experience at private wineries if you call ahead to let them know you’re coming—even if the winery is open all day, it’s good form to announce your visit (ask your hotelier for help).
See “French Wine Lingo”
Provençal winemakers are happy to work with you...if they can figure out what you want (which they expect you to know). When you enter a winery, it helps to know what you like (drier or sweeter, lighter or full-bodied, fruity or more tannic, and so on). The people serving you may know those words in English, but you’re smart to learn and use these key words in French (see the “French Wine Lingo” sidebar). Avoid visiting places between noon and 14:00—many are closed then, and those that aren’t would rather be at lunch.
French wines usually have a lower alcohol level than American or Australian wines. Whereas many Americans like a big, full-bodied wine, most French tend to prefer more subtle flavors. They judge a wine by virtue of how well it pairs with a meal—and a big, oaky wine would overwhelm most French cuisine. The French also enjoy sampling younger wines and predicting how they will taste in a few years, allowing them to buy bottles at cheaper prices and stash them in their cellars. Americans want it now—for today’s picnic.
Remember that the vintner is hoping you’ll buy at least a bottle or two. If you don’t, you may be asked to pay a small fee for the tasting. They know that Americans can’t take much wine with them, and they don’t expect to make a big sale, but they do hope you’ll look for their wines in the US. Some of the places I list will ship your purchase home—ask.
The Côtes du Rhône, which follows the Rhône River from just south of Lyon to near Avignon, is the king of Provençal wines. Our focus is on the southern section, roughly from Vaison la Romaine to Avignon (though wine-lovers should take note of the big, complex reds found in the northern Rhône wines of St. Joseph, Hermitage, and Cornas, as well as the tasty whites of Condrieu). The wines of the southern Rhône are consistently good—and sometimes exceptional. The reds are full-bodied, rosés are dry and fruity, and whites are dry and fragrant, often with hints of flowers. Côtes du Rhône whites aren’t nearly as good as the reds, though the rosés are refreshing and ideal for lunch on the terrace. For more on this wine region, including a self-guided driving tour of the area’s villages and vintners, see the Côtes du Rhône chapter.
Many subareas of the southern Côtes du Rhône are recognized for producing distinctly good wines, and have been awarded their own appellations (like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Beaumes de Venise, Côtes de Ventoux, Tavel, and Côtes du Luberon). Wines often are named for the villages that produce them. The “Côtes du Rhône Villages” appellation covers 20 villages on the eastern side of the Côtes du Rhône, including Séguret, Sablet, Rasteau, and Cairanne. Strict guidelines govern the production of these wines (called appellation controllé).
Here’s a summary of what you might find on a Côtes du Rhône carte des vins (wine list):
See “On the Wine Label”
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Almost all wines from this famous village are reds (often blends; the most dominant grapes are Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah). These wines have a velvety quality and can be spicy, with flavors of licorice and prunes. Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines merit lengthy aging. Considered among the best producers are Château de Beaucastel, Le Vieux Télégraphe, Clos des Papes, and Château la Nerthe. It’s a breeze to find their wines in North America. It’s also worth seeking out lesser-known names and smaller wineries (many of which are listed in this book).
Gigondas: These wines have many of the same qualities as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but are lesser known and usually cheaper. Gigondas red wines are spicy, meaty, and can be pretty tannic. Again, aging is necessary to bring out the full qualities of the wine. Look for Domaine du Terme, Château de Montmirail, Domaine de Cassan, or Domaine de Coyeux for good quality.
Beaumes de Venise: While reds from this village are rich and flavorful, Beaumes de Venise is most famous for its Muscat—a sweet, fragrant wine usually served as an apéritif or with dessert. It often has flavors of apricots and peaches, and it should be consumed within two years of bottling. Try Domaine de Coyeux, Domaine de Durban, and Château Redortier.
See “Le Mistral”
Rasteau: This village sits across the valley from Gigondas and shares many of its qualities—at lower prices. Rasteau makes fine rosés, robust (at times “rough”) and fruity reds, and a naturally sweet wine (Vin Doux Naturel). Their Côtes du Rhône Villages can be excellent. The cooperative in Rasteau is good, as are the wines from Domaine des Girasols.
Sablet: This village lies down in the valley below Gigondas and makes decent, fruity, and inexpensive reds and rosés.
Tavel: The queen of French rosés is 20 minutes north and west of Avignon, close to Pont du Gard. Tavel produces a rosé that is dry, crisp, higher in alcohol, darker, and more full-bodied than other rosés from the region. Look for any rosé from Tavel.
The lesser-known vineyards of the Côtes de Provence run east from Aix-en-Provence almost to St-Tropez. Typical grapes are Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, and a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The wines are commonly full-bodied and fruity, and are meant to be drunk when they’re young. They cost less than Côtes du Rhônes and have similar characteristics. But the region is most famous for its “big” rosés that can be served with meat and garlic dishes (rosé accounts for 60 percent of production).
For one-stop shopping, make it a point to find the superb La Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence on RN-7 in Les Arcs-sur-Argens (a few minutes north of the A-8 autoroute, about halfway between Aix-en-Provence and Nice). This English-speaking wine shop and tasting center represents hundreds of producers, selling bottles at vineyard prices and offering free tastings of up to 16 wines (June-Oct daily 10:00-19:00; Nov-May Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun; tel. 04 94 99 50 20, www.caveaucp.fr).
This large wine region, between Les Baux and Aix-en-Provence, produces some interesting reds, whites, and rosés. Commonly used grapes are the same as in Côtes de Provence, though several producers (mainly around Les Baux) use a higher concentration of Cabernet Sauvignon, which helps distinguish their wines. The vintners around Les Baux produce some exceptionally good wines, and many of their vineyards are organic. Try Domaine d’Eole or Domaine Gourgonnier. The tiny wine-producing area of Palette houses only three wineries, all of which make exceptional rosés; one (Château Simone) also makes a delicious white wine. The Côtes de Provence-Sainte-Victoire wineries, with their beautiful views of Mont Ste-Victoire (famously painted by Cézanne), produce some excellent rosés.
Barely east of Marseille, Cassis and Bandol sit side by side, overlooking the Mediterranean. Though very close together, they are designated as separate wine-growing areas because of the distinctive nature of their wines. Cassis is one of France’s smallest wine regions and is known for its strong, fresh, and very dry whites (made with the Marsanne grape)—arguably the best white wine in Provence. Bandol is known for its luscious, velvety reds. This wine, aged in old oak and made primarily from the Mourvèdre grape, is one of your author’s favorites.
1. Roussillon (beautiful hill town sitting atop a huge ochre deposit, giving it a red-rock appeal, popular with American tourists); see here
2. Uzès (chic town with manicured pedestrian streets, popular with European tourists); see here
3. Joucas (adorable little village where flowers and stones are lovingly maintained, popular with artists); see here
4. Brantes (spectacularly situated cliff village literally at the end of the road, with few tourists); see here
5. Vaison la Romaine (bustling midsize town with Roman ruins and spanning both sides of a river, popular with tourists); see here
6. Lourmarin (lovely upscale village, busy during the day but quiet at night); see here
7. Le Crestet (overlooked village with a sensational hilltop location and one commercial enterprise); see here
8. Séguret (linear hillside village with memorable views, many day-trippers, but few overnighters); see here
9. Gigondas (world-famous wine village with a nice balance of commercial activity and quiet); see here
10. Nyons (overlooked midsize town with a few pedestrian streets, famous for its olive oil and ideal climate); see here
1. Pont du Gard aqueduct and its museum
2. Roman Theater in Orange
3. Maison Carrée in Nîmes
4. Ancient History Museum in Arles
5. Arena in Nîmes
6. Arena in Arles
7. Roman city of Glanum (in St. Rémy)
8. Ruined aqueduct near Fontvieille
9. Roman city of Vaison la Romaine
10. Julien Bridge (near Roussillon)
