Orange • Châteauneuf-du-Pape • Vaison la Romaine • Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages • More Côtes du Rhône Drives
Near Orange: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Orientation to Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Orientation to Vaison la Romaine
The Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages
Map: Côtes du Rhône Driving Tour
Sleeping Along the Côtes du Rhône
Eating Along the Côtes du Rhône
The sunny Côtes du Rhône wine road—one of France’s best—starts at Avignon’s doorstep. It winds north through a mountainous landscape carpeted with vines, peppered with warm stone villages, and presided over by the Vesuvius-like Mont Ventoux. The wines of the Côtes du Rhône (grown on the côtes, or hillsides, of the Rhône River Valley) are easy on the palate and on your budget. But this hospitable place offers more than famous wine—its hill-capping villages inspire travel posters, its Roman ruins inspire awe, and the people you’ll meet are welcoming...and, often, as excited about their region as you are. Yes, you’ll have good opportunities for enjoyable wine-tasting, but there is also a soul to this area...if you take the time to look.
Located 30 minutes north of Avignon, the ancient town of Orange has vineyards on its outskirts. But it’s because of its well-preserved Roman Theater that Orange gets (and deserves) attention.
Vaison la Romaine is the small hub of this region, offering limited bus connections with Avignon and Orange, bike rental, and a mini-Pompeii in the town center. Nearby, you can visit the impressive Roman Theater in Orange, drive to the top of Mont Ventoux, follow my self-guided driving tour of Côtes du Rhône villages and wineries, or pedal to nearby towns for a breath of fresh air. The vineyards’ centerpiece, the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains, are laced with a variety of exciting trails ideal for hikers.
To explore this area, allow two nights for a good start. Drivers should head for the hills (read this chapter’s self-guided driving tour before deciding where to stay). Those without wheels find that Vaison la Romaine is the only practical home base (or, maybe better, consider a minivan tour).
By Car: Pick up Michelin Local maps #332 or #527 to navigate your way around the Côtes du Rhône. (Landmarks like the Dentelles de Montmirail and Mont Ventoux make it easy to get your bearings.) I’ve described my favorite driving route in a self-guided driving tour on here.
If your plan is to connect the Côtes du Rhône with the scenic Luberon (next chapter), you can do it via Mont Ventoux (follow signs to Malaucène, then to Mont Ventoux, allowing 2 hours to Roussillon). This route is one of the most spectacular in Provence. Or, faster, you can zip to the Luberon by taking the autoroute via Orange and Cavaillon. A third, more direct route takes you through the traffic-snarled, difficult-to-navigate city of Carpentras, which should be avoided. Get advice from your hotelier.
By Bus: Buses run to Vaison la Romaine from Orange and Avignon (5/day, 45 minutes from Orange, 1.5 hours from Avignon) and connect several wine villages with Vaison la Romaine and Nyons to the north. (From Avignon, you can save time by taking the 15-minute train to Orange, then connecting by bus to Vaison la Romaine.) Another bus line runs from Vaison la Romaine to Carpentras, serving Crestet (below Le Crestet), Malaucène, and Le Barroux (3/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, tel. 04 90 36 09 90). Both routes provide scenic rides through this area.
By Train: Trains get you as far as Orange (from Avignon: 15/day, 15 minutes).
By Minivan Tour: Various all-day minivan excursions leave from Avignon. For a wine-focused tour, I recommend several individuals who can expertly guide you through the region. For all tours to this area, see “Tours of Provence” on here.
Monday: Bedoin (intimate market, between Vaison la Romaine and Mont Ventoux)
Tuesday: Vaison la Romaine (great market with produce and antiques/flea market)
Wednesday: Malaucène (good and less-touristy market with produce and antiques/flea market, near Vaison la Romaine), Buis-les-Barronies (on recommended loop drive north into the Drôme Provençale), and Sault (handy if you’re driving to the Luberon area)
Thursday: Nyons (great market with produce and antiques/flea market) and Vacqueyras
Friday: Châteauneuf-du-Pape (small market) and Carpentras (big market)
Saturday: Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, near Vaison la Romaine
Orange, called Arausio in Roman times, is notable for its Roman arch and grand Roman Theater. Orange was a thriving city in ancient times—strategically situated on the Via Agrippa, connecting the important Roman cities of Lyon and Arles. It was actually founded as a comfortable place for Roman army officers to enjoy their retirement. Even in Roman times, professional military men retired with time for a second career. Did the emperor want thousands of well-trained, relatively young guys hanging around Rome? No way. What to do? “How about a nice place in the south of France...?”
The unnecessary TI is located next to the fountain and parking area at 5 cours Aristide Briand (April-Sept Mon-Sat 9:00-18:30, Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:30; Oct-March Mon-Sat 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sun; tel. 04 90 34 70 88, www.otorange.fr).
By Train: Orange’s train station is a level 20-minute walk from the Roman Theater (or an €8 taxi ride, mobile 06 09 51 32 25). The recommended Hôtel de Provence, across from the station, will keep your bags (see “Sleeping in Orange,” later). To walk into town from the train station, head straight out of the station (down avenue Frédéric Mistral), merge left onto Orange’s main shopping street (rue de la République), then turn left on rue Caristie; you’ll run into the Roman Theater’s massive stage wall.
By Bus: Buses stop at the gare SNCF and at place Pourtoules, two blocks from the Roman Theater (walk to the hill and turn right to reach the theater, bus station tel. 04 90 34 15 59, www.vaucluse.fr/86-reseau-departemental.htm).
By Car: Follow Centre-Ville signs, then Théâtre Antique signs, and park as close to the Roman Theater’s huge wall as possible—the easiest option is labeled Parking Office du Tourisme (by the fountain and the TI). Those coming from the autoroute will land here by following Centre-Ville signs; others should follow Centre-Ville signs, then Office du Tourisme signs, to find this parking lot. To reach the theater, walk to the hill and turn left.
▲▲Roman Theater (Théâtre Antique)—Orange’s ancient theater is the best-preserved in existence, and the only one in Europe with its acoustic wall still standing. (Two others in Asia Minor also survive.)
Cost and Hours: €8, drops to €7 one hour before closing; ticket includes film, multimedia show, and entry to small museum across the street; good audioguide-€2; daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, until 19:00 in summer, Oct-March 9:30-17:30 except Nov-Feb until 16:30; tel. 04 90 51 17 60, www.theatre-antique.com.
Cheap Trick: Vagabonds wanting a partial but free view of the theater can see it from the bluff high above in the Parc de la Colline St-Eutrope. Find the escalier est (east staircase) off rue Pourtoules and start climbing—it’s several hundred steps to the top. At the sign for Promenade Botanique, keep left, and at the next fork, follow the stairs up to the right. When you see the playground, head to the right to find the view. Benches and grassy areas make this a good picnic spot (no WCs).
Museum: Pop into the museum across the street (Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, included with ticket) to see a few theater details and a rare grid used as the official property-ownership registry—each square represented a 120-acre plot of land.
Eating: The café in the theater, La Grotte d’Auguste (closed Sun year-round, closed Mon in off-season), has reasonably priced snacks and lunches and great views. A shaded café-filled square (place de la République) is two blocks from the theater up rue Ségond Weber.
Self-Guided Tour: After you enter (to the right of the actual theater), you’ll see a huge dig—the site of the Temple to the Cult of the Emperor (English explanations posted). Arausio is the Roman name for the town.
Look for signs to the worthwhile film and multimedia show (near the ticket office). The 15-minute film is in French with English subtitles (ask at front desk if subtitles aren’t on). The Ghosts of the Theatre multimedia show covers four different periods of performance history. Both run continuously and can help you gain a good visual sense of how the theater looked to the Romans.
Next, enter the theater, then climb the steep stairs to find a seat high up to appreciate the acoustics (eavesdrop on people by the stage). Contemplate the idea that 2,000 years ago, Orange residents enjoyed grand spectacles with high-tech sound and lighting effects—such as simulated thunder, lightning, and rain.
A grandiose Caesar overlooks everything, reminding attendees of who’s in charge. If it seems like you’ve seen this statue before, you probably have. Countless sculptures identical to this one were mass-produced in Rome and shipped throughout the empire to grace buildings like this theater for propaganda purposes. To save money on shipping and handling, only the heads of these statues were changed with each new ruler. The permanent body wears a breastplate emblazoned with the imperial griffon (body of a lion, head and wings of an eagle) that only the emperor could wear. When a new emperor came to power, new heads were made in Rome and shipped off throughout the empire to replace the pop-off heads on all these statues. (Imagine Barack Obama’s head on George W. Bush’s body.)
Archaeologists believe that a puny, vanquished Celt was included at the knee of the emperor, touching his ruler’s robe respectfully—a show of humble subservience to the emperor. It’s interesting to consider how an effective propaganda machine can con the masses into being impressed by their leader.
The horn has blown. It’s time to find your seat: row 2, number 30. Sitting down, you’re comforted by the “EQ GIII” carved into the seat (Equitas Gradus #3...three rows for the Equestrian order). You’re not comforted by the hard limestone bench (thinking it’ll probably last 2,000 years). The theater is filled with 10,000 people. Thankfully, you mix only with your class, the nouveau riche—merchants, tradesmen, and city big shots. The people seated above you are the working class, and way up in the “chicken roost” section is the scum of the earth—slaves, beggars, prostitutes, and youth hostellers. Scanning the orchestra section (where the super-rich sit on real chairs), you notice the town dignitaries hosting some visiting VIPs.
OK, time to worship. They’re parading a bust of the emperor from its sacred home in the adjacent temple around the stage. Next is the ritual animal sacrifice called la pompa (so fancy, future generations will use that word for anything full of such...pomp). Finally, you settle in for an all-day series of spectacles and dramatic entertainment. All eyes are on the big stage door in the middle—where the Julia Robertses and Brad Pitts of the day will appear. (Lesser actors come out of the side doors.)
The play is good, but many come for the halftime shows—jugglers, acrobats, and striptease dancers. In Roman times, the theater was a festival of immorality. An ancient writer commented, “The vanquished take their revenge on us by giving us their vices through the theater.”
With an audience of 10,000 and no amplification, acoustics were critical. A roof made of linen (called the velarium) originally covered the stage, somewhat like the glass-and-iron roof you see today (recently installed to protect the stage wall). The original was designed not to protect the stage from the weather, but to project the voices of the actors into the crowd. For further help, actors wore masks with leather caricature mouths that functioned as megaphones. The theater’s side walls originally rose as high as the stage wall and supported a retractable roof that gave the audience some protection from the sun or rain. After leaving the theater, look up to the stage wall from the outside and notice the supports for poles that held the velarium in place, like the masts and sails of a ship.
The Roman Theater was all part of the “give them bread and circuses” approach to winning the support of the masses (not unlike today’s philosophy of “give them tax cuts and American Idol”). The spectacle grew from 65 days of games per year when the theater was first built (and when Rome was at its height) to about 180 days each year by the time Rome finally fell.
In the fourth century (under Christian emperor Constantine), the church forced many theaters to close their doors. Later, during the barbarian invasions, the stage wall became a protective wall and the theater became a secure residence for many. Amazingly, people squatted here until the 19th century. You can still see traces of some buildings within the theater.
▲Roman “Arc de Triomphe”—Technically the only real Roman arches of triumph are in Rome’s Forum, built to commemorate various emperors’ victories. The great Roman arch of Orange is actually a municipal arch erected (in about A.D. 19) to commemorate a general named Germanicus, who protected the town. The 60-foot-tall arch is on a noisy traffic circle (north of city center, on avenue Arc de Triomphe).
See “Sleep Code”
$$ Hôtel de Provence**, at the train station, is air-conditioned, quiet, comfortable, and affordable. Friendly Madame Verbe runs this traditional place with grace (Db-€60-80, Tb-€80-95, Qb-€85-105, small rooftop pool, café, 60 avenue Frédéric Mistral, tel. 04 90 34 00 23, fax 04 90 34 91 72, www.hoteldeprovence84.com, hoteldeprovence84@orange.fr).
$$ Hôtel Logis Le Glacier is a sweet hotel with nice touches in the center of town, two blocks from the Roman Theater. It has easy parking and very fair rates (Db-€50, bigger Db-€70, still bigger Db-€95, 46 cours Aristide Briand, tel. 04 90 34 02 01, fax 04 90 51 13 80, www.le-glacier.com, info@le-glacier.com).
From Orange by Train to: Avignon (15/day, 15 minutes), Arles (4/day direct, 35 minutes, more frequently with transfer in Avignon), Lyon (16/day, 2 hours).
By Bus to: Châteauneuf-du-Pape (3/day, none Sun, 30 minutes), Vaison la Romaine (3-5/day, 45 minutes), Avignon (3-5/day, Mon-Sat, none Sun, 45 minutes—take the train instead). Buses to Vaison la Romaine and other wine villages depart from the gare SNCF and from place Pourtoules (turn right out of the Roman Theater, and right again onto rue Pourtoules).
This most famous of the Côtes du Rhône wine villages is busy with tourists eager to sample its famous product and stroll its climbing lanes. While I prefer the less-famous wine villages farther north (described later, under “The Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages”), this welcoming wine-drenched town makes an easy day trip from Avignon and works well with a visit to nearby Orange.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape means “New Castle of the Pope,” named for the pope’s summer retreat—now a ruin capping the beautiful-to-see but little-to-do hill town (more interesting during the Friday market). Wine-loving popes planted the first vines here in the 1300s. The pope’s crest is embossed on all bottles of this deservedly famous wine.
Approaching from Avignon, signs announce, “Here start the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” Pull over and stroll into a vineyard with a view of the hill town. Notice the rocky soil—perfect for making a good wine grape. Those stones retain the sun’s heat (plentiful here) and force the vines to struggle, resulting in a lean grape—lousy for eating, but ideal for producing big wines (see “Côtes du Rhône Wines” on here). Eight different grapes are blended to make the local specialty, which has been strictly controlled for 80 years. Grenache is the most prominent grape in the blend. The most interesting white wines in Provence are also made here (a blend of up to five grapes), but the reds are what attract most visitors. For more information on the area’s wines, look for the Wine Museum (described later) at the start of the village as you come from Avignon.
To visit Châteauneuf-du-Pape you can take a bus from Avignon or Orange (no buses on Sun) or drive. If you’re coming by car, park below the town. Follow Château signs up the hill to the main square, place du Portail. The helpful TI on place du Portail has a long list of wineries that you can visit and good documentation on the area (June-Sept Mon-Sat 9:30-18:00, closed Sun; Oct-May Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, closed Wed and Sun; tel. 04 90 83 71 08). A tiny Casino supermarket is nearby. Appealing streets fan out from here, most with cellars selling the famous wine.
Wine Museum (Musée du Vin)—Located at the Brotte Winery, this museum provides useful background for your Côtes du Rhône exploration. After a brief self-guided tour of the winemaking process and the AOC classification system (English explanations in notebooks reward good students), enjoy a tasting. You’ll need to tell them what you want; see “French Wine Lingo” on here. For a clear contrast, taste a “ready-to-drink” wine (prêt à boire; preh tah bwar), then a wine from “old vines” (vieille vignes; vee-yay-ee veen-yuh).
Cost and Hours: Free, daily April-Sept 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-19:00, Oct-March 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, on route d’Avignon, at start of village if coming from Avignon, tel. 04 90 83 70 07, www.brotte.com.
Wine Tasting—The town itself offers many places to taste wine, including these two good cellars located near each other.
With your back to the TI, walk on the level road to the right to find Daniele Brunel’s The Best Vintage Cave, a fine place to sample Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Speaking fluent English and offering wines from 20 different producers (including her own), charismatic Daniele provides a good introduction to area wines. The youngest member of the famous Brunel wine family, Daniele represents a new generation of winemakers who combine traditional values and modern techniques (daily March-Oct 10:30-12:30 & 13:30-18:30, Nov-Dec 11:00-12:30 & 13:30-17:30, closed Jan-Feb, near place du Portail at 7 rue de la République, tel. 04 90 83 31 75, www.the-best-vintage.com). A free WC is next door.
Continuing down this street (and up the staircase), you’ll find Vinadéa Maison des Vins, where you can taste and buy more than 200 kinds of Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation wine from dozens of producers. Marie speaks English (daily June-Sept 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-19:00, Oct-May 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, 8 rue Maréchal Foch, tel. 04 90 83 70 69, www.vinadea.com).
Mas de Lionne—Lying on the fringe of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mas de Lionne winery is where former Boeing manager Doug Graves is following his retirement dream. Doug bought this small vineyard in 2008 and has been living and working it nonstop since. He does just about everything by himself, but still has time to greet travelers and explain how his wines are made. Because his vineyard is across a tiny road from the officially designated Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, he can’t label his wine with this prestigious name. Instead, his wines are designated Côtes du Rhône, even though they share much in common with Châteauneuf-du-Pape (notice the rocky soil). Doug makes a light rosé (€3.50) and velvety red wines (€5-9) using 100 percent Grenache grapes (unusual in this area, where typically several grapes are blended). His interesting story and ability to explain winemaking to Anglophones makes this a worthwhile stop for aficionados.
Cost and Hours: Price varies by glass, Tue-Sat 14:00-18:00, closed Sun; find the town of Sorgues and look for Mas de Lionne signs off N-7, pass the first house with the small Mas de Lionne sign—the winery is 100 yards up the road at 948 chemin de la Lionne, mobile 06 37 16 04 56, www.masdelalionne.com.
You’ll find several appealing eateries around place du Portail and up the pedestrian street rue Joseph Ducos.
Le Pistou serves salads and menus from €13 (closed Sun evening and all day Mon, 15 rue Joseph Ducos, tel. 04 90 83 71 75). La Maisouneta, at #7, is good for fresh pasta dishes (menus from €15, tel. 04 90 32 55 03).
If you have the energy and the funds, follow signs up the hill to Le Verger des Papes, a terrific restaurant where you can splurge both on the terrace views and on their traditional and sophisticated cuisine (closed Sun evening, €19 lunch menu, €30 dinner menu, 4 rue Montée du Château—drivers can follow Château signs and park at the top to skip the climb, tel. 04 90 83 50 40).
Picnics: The Casino supermarket, across from the TI, has basic supplies (closed midday, hours vary). The La Part des Anges bakery across the street will make €4 sandwiches to go or to stay (closed Wed off-season, tel. 04 90 33 40 47).
The Côtes du Rhône region features classic Provençal scenery, characteristic villages, cozy wineries, fields of fragrant lavender, and excellent restaurants. If you’re sleeping in this area, Vaison la Romaine is a handy home base. Then delve into the region’s highlights by following my self-guided driving tour. With more time, dig deeper into the Côtes du Rhône with a drive up Mont Ventoux, a spin around the Drôme Provençale, or a visit to the Ardèche Gorges.
With quick access to vineyards, villages, and Mont Ventoux, this lively little town of 6,000 makes a great base for exploring the Côtes du Rhône region by car, by bike, or on foot. You get two villages for the price of one: Vaison la Romaine’s “modern” lower city has worthwhile Roman ruins, a lone pedestrian street, and a lively main square—café-studded place Montfort. The car-free medieval hill town looms above, with meandering cobbled lanes, a dash of art galleries and cafés, and a ruined castle with a fine view from its base. (Vaison la Romaine is also a good place to have your hair done, since there are more than 20 hairdressers in this small town.)
The city is split in two by the Ouvèze River. The Roman Bridge connects the more modern lower town (Ville-Basse) with the hill-capping medieval upper town (Ville-Haute).
The superb TI is in the lower city, between the two Roman ruin sites, at place du Chanoine Sautel (June-Aug Mon-Fri 9:00-18:45, Sat-Sun 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:45; April-May and Sept-mid-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-17:45, Sun 9:00-12:00; mid-Oct-March Mon-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-17:45, closed Sun; tel. 04 90 36 02 11). Say bonjour to charmante and ever-so-patient Valerie—get bus schedules, ask about festivals and evening programs, and pick up information on walks from Vaison la Romaine. Find the big wall map showing hiking trails, and try the slick computer terminals that allow you to download hikes and bike rides with English instructions. You can also pick up English pamphlets on biking and hiking with instructions for several loop trails, ranging from easy half-day trips to all-day affairs.
By Bus: The unmarked bus stop to Orange and Avignon is in front of the Cave la Romaine winery (by the driveway closer to the roundabout). Buses from Orange or Avignon drop you across the street (3-5/day, 45 minutes from Orange, 1.5 hours from Avignon, best from Orange and just €3). Tell the driver you want the stop for the Office de Tourisme. When you get off the bus, walk five minutes down avenue Général de Gaulle to reach the TI and recommended hotels.
By Car: Follow signs to Centre-Ville, then Office de Tourisme; parking is free across from the TI—most parking is free in Vaison la Romaine as well.
Market Day: Sleep in Vaison la Romaine on Monday night, and you’ll wake to an amazing Tuesday market. But be warned: Mondays are quiet during the day, as many shops close (but sights are open). If you spend a Monday night, avoid parking at market sites, or you won’t find your car where you left it (if signs indicate Stationnement Interdit le Mardi, don’t park there—ask your hotel where you can park).
Internet Access: Try Vaison 2 Mils at 51 cours Taulignan (tel. 04 90 36 23 24). For Wi-Fi, head to Café Universal on atmospheric place Montfort.
Laundry: The self-service Laverie la Lavandière is on cours Taulignan, near avenue Victor Hugo (daily 8:00-22:00). The friendly owners, who work next door at the dry cleaners, will do your laundry while you sightsee—when you pick up your laundry, thank them with a small tip (dry cleaners open Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:00, closed Sun).
Supermarket: A handy Casino is on place Montfort in the thick of the cafés.
Bike Rental: Cycles Chaves has top-quality bikes (a half-mile toward Avignon at 17 avenue Ulysee Fabre, route d’Avignon, tel. 06 07 89 45 51, www.cycles-chave.com).
Taxi: To get a taxi, call 04 90 36 00 04 or 06 22 28 24 49.
Car Rental: Wallgreen has a few cars for rent at Vaison Pneus (closed Sun, avenue Marcel Pagnol, tel. 04 90 28 73 54). The TI has a list of other car rental agencies.
Local Guide: Let sincere and knowledgeable Anna-Marie Melard bring those Roman ruins to life for you (€60/1.3-hour tour, tel. 04 90 36 50 48).
Cooking Classes: Charming, easygoing Barbara Schuerenberg offers reasonably priced cooking classes from her home in Vaison la Romaine (€70, includes lunch, 4-person maximum, tel. 04 90 35 68 43, www.cuisinedeprovence.com, barbara@cuisinedeprovence.com).
Roman Ruins—Ancient Vaison la Romaine had a treaty that gave it the preferred “federated” relationship with Rome (rather than simply being a colony). This, along with a healthy farming economy (olives and vineyards), made it a most prosperous place...as a close look at its sprawling ruins demonstrates. About 6,000 people called Vaison la Romaine home 2,000 years ago. When the barbarians arrived, the Romans were forced out, and the townspeople fled into the hills (see the sidebar on here). Here’s something to ponder: The town has only recently reached the same population it had during its Roman era.
Cost and Hours: €8 Roman ruins combo-ticket includes both ruins, helpful audioguide, and cloister at the Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (described later); daily April-Sept 9:30-18:00, Oct-March 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00.
Touring the Ruins: Vaison la Romaine’s Roman ruins are split by a modern road into two sites: Puymin and La Villasse. Each is well-presented with some English information panels (less necessary if you use the audioguide), offering a good look at life during the Roman Empire. The Roman town extended all the way to the river, and its forum lies under place Montfort. What you can see is only a small fraction of the Roman town’s extent—most is still buried under today’s city.
Visit Puymin first. Nearest the entry are the scant but impressive ruins of a sprawling mansion. Find the faint remains of a colorful frescoed wall. Climb the hill to the good little museum (pick up your audioguide here; exhibits also explained in English loaner booklet). Behind the museum is a 6,000-seat theater that is well-used today, with just enough seats for the whole town (of yesterday and today).
Back across the modern road in La Villasse, you’ll explore a “street of shops” and the foundations of more houses. You’ll also see a few wells, used before Vaison’s two aqueducts were built.
Lower Town (Ville-Basse)—Vaison la Romaine’s nondescript modern town stretches from its car-littered main square, place Montfort. Cafés grab the north side of the square, conveniently sheltered from the prevailing mistral wind, enjoying the generous shade of the ubiquitous plane (platane) trees (cut back each year to form a leafy canopy; see sidebar on here).
A 10-minute walk below place Montfort, the stout Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral—with an evocative cloister—is a good example of Provençal Romanesque (cloister entry-€1.50, or covered by Roman ruins combo-ticket, daily 15:00-19:00). The pedestrian-only Grand Rue is a lively shopping street leading to the small river gorge and the Roman Bridge.
Roman Bridge—The Romans cut this sturdy, no-nonsense vault into the canyon rock 2,000 years ago, and it has survived ever since. Find the information panel at the new town end of the bridge. Until the 20th century, this was the only way to cross the Ouvèze River. The stone plaque on the rock wall (Septembre 22-92...) shows the high-water mark of the record flood that killed 30 people and washed away the valley’s other bridges. The flood swept away the modern top of this bridge...but couldn’t budge the 55-foot Roman arch.
Upper Town (Ville-Haute)—Although there’s nothing of particular importance to see in the fortified medieval old town atop the hill, the cobbled lanes and enchanting fountains make you want to break out a sketchpad. Vaison la Romaine had a prince-bishop since the fourth century. He came under attack by the Count of Toulouse in the 12th century. Anticipating a struggle, the prince-bishop abandoned the lower town and built a château on this rocky outcrop (about 1195). Over time, the rest of the townspeople followed, vacating the lower town and building their homes at the base of the château behind the upper town’s fortified wall.
To reach the upper town, hike up from the Roman Bridge (passing memorials for both world wars) through the medieval gate, under the lone tower crowned by an 18th-century wrought iron bell cage. The château is closed, but a steep, uneven trail to its base rewards hikers with a sweeping view.
▲▲Market Day—In the 16th century, the pope gave Vaison la Romaine market-town status. Each Tuesday morning since then, the town has hosted a farmers’ market. Today merchants gather with gusto, turning the entire place into a festival of produce and Provençal products. This market is one of France’s best, but it can challenge claustrophobes. Be warned that parking is a real headache unless you arrive early (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier; for tips on enjoying market day, see the Shopping chapter).
Wine Tasting—Cave la Romaine, a five-minute walk up avenue Général de Gaulle from the TI, offers a big variety of good-value wines from nearby villages in a pleasant, well-organized tasting room (free tastes, Mon-Sat 8:30-18:30, Sun 9:00-13:00, avenue St. Quenin, tel. 04 90 36 55 90, www.cave-la-romaine.com).
Hiking—The TI has good information on relatively easy hikes into the hills above Vaison la Romaine. It’s about 1.25 hours to the quiet hill town of Le Crestet, though views begin immediately. To find this trail, drive or walk on the road past the upper town (with the rock base and castle just on your left), continue on chemin des Fontaines (blue signs), and stay the course as far as you like (follow yellow Crestet signs). Cars are not allowed on the road after about a mile. To find the 8.5 mile walk to Séguret, take the same road above Vaison la Romaine and look for a yellow sign. In both cases consider the value of hiking one way and taking a taxi back (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier, for taxi contact info).
Biking—This area is not particularly flat, and if it’s hot and windy, bike-riding is a dicey option. But if the air’s calm, the five-mile ride to cute little Villedieu (recommended La Maison Bleue restaurant listed on here) is a delight. The bike route is signed along small roads; you’ll find signs from Vaison la Romaine to Villedieu at the roundabout past Cave La Romaine toward Orange (see map on here). With a bit more energy, you can pedal beyond Villedieu on the lovely road to Mirabel (from Villedieu, follow signs to Nyons) and make a loop back (figure about 18 miles). Or get a good map and connect the following villages for an enjoyable 11-mile loop ride: Vaison la Romaine, St. Romain-en-Viennois, Puyméras (with the recommended La Girocedre restaurant—see here), Faucon, and St. Marcellin-lès-Vaison. The TI and bike shop have good information on mountain-biking trails.
Stream-Walking in the Valley of Toulauranc—For a refreshing experience and a breath of cool air, drive about 15 minutes from Vaison la Romaine to the valley of Toulauranc, where you can literally wander upstream into a beautiful canyon. You’ll need shoes that work in water and a bathing suit. Leave Vaison la Romaine toward Malaucène, then follow Entrechaux signs and join D-5. Follow D-5, then signs to Veaux. Be alert as you near the tiny village of Veaux—just before reaching the village, you’ll cross the river. Stop and park at the bridge, then walk upstream as far as you feel comfortable. River levels vary by season.
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 33)
Hotels in Vaison la Romaine are a good value. Those in the medieval upper town (Ville-Haute) are quieter, cozier, and cooler, but require a 15-minute walk to the TI and Roman ruins. If staying at one of the first three places, follow signs to Cité Médiévale and park just outside the upper village entry (driving into the Cité Médiévale itself is a challenge, with tiny lanes and nearly impossible parking). If you have a car, consider staying in one of the charming Côtes du Rhône villages near Vaison la Romaine (see “Sleeping Along the Côtes du Rhône” on here).
$$$ Hôtel le Beffroi*** hides deep in the upper town, just above a demonstrative bell tower (you’ll hear what I mean). It offers 16th-century red-tile-and-wood-beamed-cozy lodgings with nary a level surface. The rooms—split between two buildings a few doors apart—are Old World comfy, and some have views. You’ll also find tasteful public spaces, a garden with view tables (light meals available in the summer), a small pool with more views, and animated Nathalie at the reception (standard Db-€95-120, superior Db-€150, Tb-€175, rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 90 36 04 71, fax 04 90 36 24 78, www.le-beffroi.com, info@le-beffroi.com). The hotel’s restaurant offers menus from €28.
$$$ L’Evêché Chambres, almost next door to le Beffroi in the upper town (look for the ivy), is a five-room melt-in-your-chair B&B. The owners (the Verdiers) own the art boutique across the street, have an exquisite sense of interior design, and are passionate about books, making this place feel like a cross between a library and an art gallery (Sb-€75-85, standard Db-€85-90, Db suite-€115-140, the solanum suite is worth every euro, Tb-€120-160, Internet access and Wi-Fi, rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 90 36 13 46, fax 04 90 36 32 43, http://eveche.free.fr, eveche@aol.com).
$$ Hôtel la Fête en Provence, conveniently located for drivers at the entry to the medieval upper town, has a variety of room shapes and sizes. All the rooms are chiffon-comfortable, and several have small kitchenettes. Rooms are located around a calming courtyard, and there’s a pool and Jacuzzi next door (standard Db-€80, bigger Db with king-size bed and bath-€110, extra person-€15, Cité Médiévale, tel. & fax 04 90 36 36 43, www.hotellafete-provence.com, fete-en-provence@wanadoo.fr). Their apartments (€155) sleep up to six people, and come with a kitchenette and sitting area.
$ Hôtel Burrhus** is part art gallery, part simple, funky hotel—and the best value in the lower town. It’s a central, laid-back, go-with-the-flow place, with a broad terrace over the raucous place Montfort (the double-paned windows are effective, but for maximum quiet, request a back room). Its floor plan will confound even the ablest navigator. The bigger, newer rooms—with contemporary decor, bigger bathrooms, and air-conditioning—are worth the extra euros (Db-€55-61, newer Db-€71-88, Qb apartment-€140, extra bed-€15, air-con, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 1 place Montfort, tel. 04 90 36 00 11, fax 04 90 36 39 05, www.burrhus.com, info@burrhus.com).
Vaison la Romaine offers a handful of excellent places—arrive by 19:30 or reserve ahead, particularly on weekends. And while you can eat very well on a moderate budget in Vaison, it’s well worth venturing to nearby Côtes du Rhône villages to eat (see “Eating Along the Côtes du Rhône” on here). Wherever you dine, begin with a fresh glass of Muscat from the nearby village of Beaumes de Venise.
La Bartavelle is a good place to savor traditional French cuisine in the lower town, with a tourist-friendly mix-and-match menu of local options. The €29 menu gets you four courses; the €22 menu gives you access to all the top-end selections but fewer courses. Be sure to reserve ahead (closed Mon, small terrace outside, air-con interior, 12 place de Sus Auze, tel. 04 90 36 02 16).
Le Brin d’Olivier is the most romantic place I list, with soft lighting, hushed conversations, earth tones, and a semi-gastronomic menu that celebrates Provence (no-choice €27 and €36 menus, €20-26 à la carte plats, closed Wed except July-Aug, 4 rue du Ventoux, tel. 04 90 28 74 79).
Le Tournesol offers a decent €18 dinner, mostly Provençal dishes, and friendly service. Show this book to get a free kir (daily, 30 cours Taulignan, tel. 04 90 36 09 18, owner Patrick speaks a little English).
La Lyriste, named for the loudest “singing” cigale (cicada), puts cuisine above decor. Marie serves what hubby Benoit cooks. Both are shy, yet proud of their restaurant. There’s a fine menu for €19, but go for the slightly pricier menus, which are inventive and très delectable (closed Mon, indoor and outdoor seating, 45 cours Taulignan, tel. 04 90 36 04 67).
Bistro du’O, in the upper village, is popular with Vaison’s yuppie crowd. Reserve ahead to dine on soft leather chairs under tall stone arches while enjoying mouthwatering cuisine that is creatively presented yet affordable. Try the chef’s beefy noix de St. Jacques (menus from €29, closed Sun-Mon, rue du Château, tel. 04 90 41 72 90).
The recommended Hôtel le Beffroi’s garden is just right for a light dinner in the summer (menus from €28).
Dining Cheap on place Montfort: Quickly Burgers has view tables on the main square and is kid- and budget-friendly, with €5-8 meals including a good choice of burgers, salads, sandwiches...and chicken nuggets (daily, across the square from all the cafés at 28 place Montfort).
The most central bus stop is a few blocks up avenue Général de Gaulle from the TI at the main winery, Cave la Romaine.
From Vaison la Romaine by Bus to: Avignon (5/day during school year—called période scolaire, otherwise 3/day, all buses pass through Orange, 1.5 hours; faster to bus to Orange and train from there), Orange (3-5/day, 45 minutes), Nyons (3-5/day, 45 minutes), Crestet (lower village below Le Crestet, 2/day, 5 minutes), Carpentras (2/day, 45 minutes). Bus info: tel. 04 90 36 05 22, www.cars-lieutaud.fr.
Officially, the Côtes du Rhône vineyards follow the Rhône River from just south of Lyon to Avignon. Our focus is the southern section of the Côtes du Rhône, centering on the small area between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vaison la Romaine. This area is best toured by car or bike. My self-guided driving tour starts in the village of Séguret, then returns to Vaison la Romaine and winds clockwise around the Dentelles de Montmirail, visiting the mountaintop village of Le Crestet, adorable little Suzette, and the renowned wine villages of Beaumes de Venise and Gigondas. I’ve listed several wineries (domaines) along the way. Before you go, study up with “Provençal Wine-Tasting 101” on here. Even if wine isn’t your style, don’t miss this scenic drive. Theft is a problem in this beautiful area—leave absolutely nothing in your car.
Although seeing the Côtes du Rhône is possible as a day trip by car from Arles or Avignon, you’ll have a more enjoyable and intimate experience if you sleep in one of the villages (my favorite accommodations are listed under “Sleeping Along the Côtes du Rhône” on here).
With a car, the best one-day plan is to take the driving tour described below (allow an entire day for the 80-mile round-trip from Avignon). Try to get the first two stops done before lunch (most wineries are closed 12:00-14:00; call ahead if possible), then complete the loop in the afternoon. Some wineries are closed on Sundays, holidays, and during the harvest (mid-Sept). This route is picnic-friendly, but there are few shops along the way—stock up before you leave.
This area is clearly easiest if you have four wheels. Without a car, it’s tougher, but a representative sampling is doable by bike (for ideas, see “Biking” on here) or by bus (3-5 buses/day from Avignon and Orange stop at several Côtes du Rhône villages; consider taking the bus one-way, then returning by taxi). For less effort and more expense, Wine Safari Tours is happy to follow this route (see “Tours of Provence” on here).
This tour introduces you to the characteristic best of the Côtes du Rhône wine road. While circling the rugged Dentelles de Montmirail mountain peaks, you’ll experience all that’s unique about this region: its natural beauty, glowing limestone villages, inviting wineries, and rolling hills of vineyards. As you drive, notice how some vineyards grow at angles—they’re planted this way to compensate for the strong effect of the mistral wind. One hundred million years ago, the Mediterranean Sea extended this far north, leaving behind a sandy soil base for today’s farmers (the wine town of Sablet’s name comes from the French word sable, meaning sand).
This trip provides a crash course in Rhône Valley wine, an excuse to meet the locals who make the stuff, and breathtaking scenery—especially late in the day, when the famous Provençal sunlight causes colors to absolutely pop. This region is not only about wine; you’ll pass orchards of apricots, figs, cherries, and table grapes as well.
Remember that the wineries you’ll visit are serious about their wines—and hope that you’ll take them seriously, too. At private wineries, tastings are not happy-go-lucky chances to knock back a few glasses and buy a T-shirt with the property’s label on it. Show genuine interest in the wines, and buy some if you enjoyed your tastes. Don’t expect to be served immediately and simultaneously with other customers: Here it’s done one at a time so that the client gets the server’s full attention. And remember that those pouring your wine are hoping you’ll buy (especially more than one bottle) if you are tasting for free.
See “The Life of a Hill Town in Provence”
The many fine restaurants along the way are another highlight of the route. I’ve mentioned some of my favorites; you’ll find much more detail about these later, under “Eating Along the Côtes du Rhône.”
Our tour starts just south of Vaison la Romaine in little Séguret. This town is best for a visit early or late, when it’s quieter. (If you get a late start or prefer ending your tour here, begin the tour in Le Crestet—stop #3—and save the first two stops for last.)
See “The Phoenicians’ Wine-Growing Almanac”
• From Vaison la Romaine, the easiest way to reach Séguret is to follow signs for Orange, then look for the turnoff to Séguret in a few minutes. By bike, or for a more scenic drive, cross to the Cité Médiévale side of the river in Vaison la Romaine, then follow D-977 signs downriver to Séguret. A hiking trail from above Vaison la Romaine’s castle leads to Séguret in 8.5 miles (see here).
Blending onto the hillside with a smattering of shops, two cafés, made-to-stroll lanes, and a natural spring, this hamlet is understandably popular. Séguret makes for a good coffee or dinner stop (see recommended restaurants on here).
Séguret’s name comes from the Latin word securitas (meaning “secure”). The bulky entry arch came with a massive gate, which drilled in the message of the village’s name. In the Middle Ages, Séguret was patrolled 24/7—they never took their securitas for granted. Walk through the arch. To appreciate how the homes’ outer walls provided security in those days, drop down the first passage on your right (near the fountain). These exit passages, or poternes, were needed in periods of peace to allow the town to expand below.
Find Séguret’s open washbasin (lavoir), a hotbed of social activity and gossip over the ages. The basins behind the fountain (now planted) were reserved for washing animals (which outnumbered residents in the Middle Ages); the larger ones (on the left) were for laundry only. Public washbasins like this were used right up until World War II. Farther on, take a left at the fork. The community bread oven (four banal) was used for festivals and celebrations. Rue Calade leads to the unusual 12th-century church for views (the circular village you see below is Sablet). This rock-sculpted church is usually closed, but it’s worth a look from the outside. High above, a castle once protected Séguret, but all that’s left today is a tower that you can barely make out (trails provide access). At Christmas, this entire village transforms itself into one big crèche scene—a Provençal tradition that has long since died out in other villages. To sleep well or have a fine meal with lavish views, land a room or a table at the recommended La Table du Comtat, just beyond the rock-sculpted church.
• Signs near Séguret’s parking will lead you up, up, and away to our next stop, Domaine de Mourchon.
This high-flying winery has become the buzz of the Côtes du Rhône by blending state-of-the-art technology with traditional winemaking methods (a dazzling ring of stainless-steel vats holds wines grown on land plowed by horses). The wines are winning the respect of international critics, yet the (Scottish) owners seem eager to help anyone understand Rhône Valley wines. Language is not an issue here, nor is a lack of stunning views. Free and informative English tours of the vineyards are offered once a week.
Cost and Hours: Tours—free, Easter-Sept Wed at 17:00, check website or call to verify; winery open Mon-Fri 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, plus April-Sept Sat 14:00-18:00, closed Sun year-round; tel. 04 90 46 70 30, www.domainedemourchon.com.
• Next, return to Vaison la Romaine and follow signs toward Carpentras/Malaucène. After passing through Crestet, you’ll come to Le Crestet (on D-938). Look for signs leading up to Le Village and park at its entry.
This village—founded after the fall of the Roman Empire, when people banded together in high places like this for protection from marauding barbarians—followed the usual hill-town evolution (see sidebar). The outer walls of the village did double duty as ramparts and house walls. The castle above (from about A.D. 850) provided a final safe haven when the village was attacked.
The Bishop of Vaison la Romaine was the first occupant, lending little Le Crestet a certain prestige. With about 500 residents in 1200, Le Crestet was a very important town in this region, reaching its zenith in the mid-1500s, when 660 people called it home. Le Crestet’s gradual decline started when the bishop moved to Vaison la Romaine in the 1600s, though the population remained fairly stable until World War II. Today, about 35 people live within the walls year-round (about 55 during the summer boom).
Wander the peaceful lanes and appreciate the amount of work it took to put these stones in place. Notice the elaborate water channels. Le Crestet was served by 18 cisterns in the Middle Ages, and disputes over water were a common problem. The peaceful church (might be closed, €0.50 turns the lights on) has a beautiful stained-glass window behind the altar. Imagine hundreds of people living here and animals roaming everywhere. Get to the top of town. The village’s only business, the recommended café-restaurant Le Panoramic, has an upstairs terrace with a view that justifies the name...even if the food is mediocre.
Walkers can return to Vaison la Romaine along a scenic footpath. The trail leaves from chemin de la Verrière at the very top of the village (by the intersection with the road from below). Look for the brown sign, which indicates that it’s 8 kilometers (about 5 miles) to Vaison la Romaine, and—in a few steps—turn right, following the yellow sign that shows it’s 5.1 kilometers (3 miles) to Vaison la Romaine (via chemin des Fontaines).
• Drivers should carry on and reconnect with the road below, following signs to Malaucène. As you near Malaucène, look for the huge boules courts separated by logs (on your left). Entering Malaucène, turn right on D-90 (direction: Suzette) just before the gas station. After a few minutes you’ll approach a pass. Look for signs on the left to Le Col de la Chaîne (Chain Pass). From this point on, the scenery gets better fast.
Get out of your car at the pass (about 1,500 feet) and enjoy the breezy views. Wander about. The peaks in the distance—thrusting up like the back of a stegosaurus or a bad haircut (you decide)—are the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small range running just nine miles basically north to south and reaching 2,400 feet in elevation. This region’s land is constantly shifting. Those rocky tops were the result of a gradual uplifting of the land, then were blown bald by the angry mistral wind. Below, pine and oak trees mix with scotch broom, which blooms brilliant yellow in May and June. You may see rich yellow-to-reddish patches of land—the result of huge deposits of ochre located deep below. The village below the peaks is Suzette (you’ll be there soon). The yellow-signed hiking-only trail leads to the castle-topped village of Le Barroux (3.5 miles, mostly downhill).
The scene is gorgeous and surprisingly undeveloped. You can thank the lack of water for the absence of more homes or farms in this area. Water is everything in this parched region, and if you don’t have ready access to it, you can’t build or cultivate the land. (Some farmers have drilled as far as 1,300 feet down to try to find water.) With no water at hand, farmers here lie awake at night worrying about fire. Hot summers, dry pines, and windy days make a scary recipe for fast-traveling fires.
Now turn around and face Mont Ventoux. Are there clouds in the horizon? You’re looking into the eyes of the Alps (behind Ventoux), and those “foothills” help keep Provence sunny.
• Time to push on. You’ll pass yellow trail signs along this drive. (The Dentelles provide fertile ground for walking trails.) To sleep nearby, try La Ferme Dégoutaud, just ahead (described on here). With the medieval castle of Le Barroux topping the horizon in the distance (off to the left), drive on to little...
Tiny Suzette floats on its hilltop, with a small 12th-century chapel, one café, a handful of residents, and the gaggle of houses where they live. Park in Suzette’s lot, below, then find the big orientation board above the lot (Rome is 620 kilometers—385 miles—away). Look out to the broad shoulders of Mont Ventoux. At 6,000 feet, it always seems to have some clouds hanging around. If it’s clear, the top looks like it’s snow-covered; if you drive up there, you’ll see it’s actually white stone (see the Mont Ventoux drive on here). If it’s very cloudy, the mountain takes on a dark, foreboding appearance.
See “Cicadas (Cigales)”
Look to the village. A sign asks you to Respectez son Calme (respect its peace). Suzette’s homes once lived in the shadow of an imposing castle, destroyed during the religious wars of the mid-1500s. The recommended Les Coquelicots café makes a good lunch or drink stop. Good picnic tables lie just past Suzette on our route. Back across the road from the orientation table is a tasting room for Château Redortier wines (unreliable hours, English brochure and well-explained wine list provided).
• Continue from Suzette in the direction of Beaumes de Venise. You’ll drop down into the lush little village of La Fare. Here, joyriders can take a 20-minute detour into the mountains by taking a sharp right on entering the village, following Dentelles de Montmirail signs. The Domaine de Cassan winery lies near the end of the road that also leads to the Col du Cayron hiking trail (to the village of Gigondas). Your partner could drop you off and meet you in Gigondas (it’s a 1.5-hour walk over the pass).
But La Fare’s best wine-tasting opportunity is back on our route just after leaving the village, at...
A private road winds up and up to this impossibly beautiful setting, with the best views of the Dentelles I’ve found. Olive trees frame the final approach, and Le Caveau signs lead to a modern tasting room (you may need to ring the buzzer). The owners and staff (mainly Marion) are formal but sincere, and take your interest in their wines seriously—pass on by if you only want a quick taste or are not interested in buying. These wines have earned their excellent reputation (and are now available in the US). Start with their two delectable reds (a Gigondas and a smashing Beaumes de Venise) and finish with their trademark dry and sweet Muscats. After tasting, take time to wander about the vineyards.
Cost and Hours: Wines-€7-13/bottle, daily May-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct-April closed 12:00-14:00 and all day Sun, tel. 04 90 12 42 42, some English spoken.
• Drive on toward Beaumes de Venise. You’ll soon pass the recommended Côté Vignes, a fine place for lunch or dinner.
You’ll drop out of the hills as you approach Beaumes de Venise. To find the next winery, keep right at the first Centre-Ville sign as the road bends left, then carefully track Domaine de Durban signs for three scenic miles to...
This winery offers a stunning setting similar to Domaine de Coyeux, but has a less “engaged” staff—so for many, this place is skippable. But they do make rosé and whites (Domaine de Coyeux doesn’t) and the drive there is another doozy. You decide.
If you go, find the small tasting room and let your young hostess take your taste buds on a tour. This domaine produces appealing whites, reds, and Muscats. Start with the 100 percent Viognier (€4.50/bottle), then try their Viognier-Chardonnay blend. Their rosé is light and refreshing, and the three reds are very different from one another. Finish with their popular Muscat de Venise.
Picnics are not allowed at the winery, and the grass is off-limits, though strolling amid the gorgeous vineyards is OK.
Cost and Hours: Wines-€4-11/bottle, Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 62 94 26.
• Retrace your route to Beaumes de Venise, turn left at the bottom, then make a quick right and navigate through Beaumes de Venise, following signs for Vacqueyras. At a big roundabout, you’ll pass Beaumes de Venise’s massive cave coopérative, which represents many growers in this area (big selection, but too slick for my taste). Continue following signs for Vacqueyras (a famous wine village with a Thursday market and another cave coopérative), and then signs for Gigondas and Vaison par la route touristique. As you enter Gigondas, follow signs to the TI and park on or near the tree-shaded square.
This town produces some of the region’s best reds and is ideally situated for hiking, mountain-biking, and driving into the mountains. The TI has a list of wineries, chambres d’hôte, and good hikes or drives (Mon-Sat 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, likely closed Sun, place du Portail, tel. 04 90 65 85 46, www.gigondas-dm.fr). The €2.50 Chemins et Sentiers du Massif des Dentelles hiking map is helpful, though not critical, because routes are well-signed. The blue route makes a good one-hour round-trip high above Gigondas to superb views (walk up the steep road from the town hall—mairie—next to the TI and follow blue markers toward the Dentelles). You can extend this hike into a three-hour loop (get directions from the TI). At the very least, take a short walk through the village lanes above the TI—the church is an easy destination with good views over the heart of the Côtes du Rhône vineyards.
You’ll find several good tasting opportunities on the main square. Le Caveau de Gigondas is best, where Sandra and Barbara await your visit with a large and free selection of tiny bottles for sampling, filled directly from the barrel (daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, across from TI under the post office, tel. 04 90 65 82 29). They pride themselves on attentive service, so be patient if they are with someone when you arrive. Here you can compare wines from a variety of private producers in an intimate, low-key surrounding. The provided list of wines is helpful. A self-imposed gag rule (intended to keep staff from favoring the production of a single winery in this co-op showcase) makes it hard to get a strong recommendation here, so it’s best to know what you want (see “French Wine Lingo” on here).
You’ll find a small grocery store and several eating options in the village. Diagonally across from the TI, the shaded red tables of Du Verre à l’Assiette (“From Glass to Plate”) entice lunchtime eaters (also good interior ambience, €10 salads, €14 plats, closed Thu, off-season open for lunch daily and Fri-Sat nights, place du Village, tel. 04 90 12 36 64). To dine very well or sleep nearby, find the recommended Hôtel les Florets, a half-mile above town (restaurant closed Wed).
• From Gigondas, follow signs to the circular wine village of Sablet—with generally inexpensive yet tasty wines (the TI and wine coopérative share a space in the town center)—then past Séguret and back to Vaison la Romaine, where our tour ends.
If you haven’t had your fill, consider adding on some...
Cairanne, toward Orange from Vaison la Romaine, is a pleasant village producing fine wines with one of the best wine coopératives in this region. Grignan, 30 minutes north of Vaison la Romaine at the northern limit of Provence, is impressively set on a rocky spur and features one of Provence’s grandest châteaux (French-only tours).
(€1 = about $1.40, country code: 33)
These accommodations are along the self-guided driving tour route described earlier. They offer a great opportunity for drivers who want to experience rural France and get better values.
These accommodations are within a 10-minute drive of Vaison la Romaine.
$$$ Hôtel les Florets**, a lovely spread a half-mile above Gigondas, is buried in the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. It comes with a vast terrace with views and hiking trails into the mountains, tastefully designed rooms, and a fine restaurant (standard Db-€100-115, superior Db-€130-165, annex rooms have front patios but I prefer rooms in the main building, Wi-Fi, tel. 04 90 65 85 01, fax 04 90 65 83 80, www.hotel-lesflorets.com, accueil@hotel-lesflorets.com).
$$$ La Madelène Chambres is a few miles off the road between Vaison la Romaine and Malaucène. This smartly restored ancient farmhouse comes with pleasant English owners (Jude and Philip) and complete isolation. Filled with nice touches, the place has meditative terraces, a view pool, and five very comfortable and spacious rooms (Db-€120-140, includes breakfast, a few bikes available for guests, route d’Entrechaux 84340, Malaucène, tel. 06 75 78 84 97, www.bighouseinprovence.com, rhonewineholidays@googlemail.com). Ask about their wine-tasting packages (€300/person includes 3 meals, overnight accommodation, and wine tour with 3 tastings; €1,900/couple for 3-night stay with visits to several wineries).
$$$ Domaine des Tilleuls***, 10 minutes from Vaison la Romaine in workaday Malaucène, is a well-priced refuge, and the most family-friendly place I list. (Welcoming owners Arnould and Dominique have three kids.) Its 20 country-modern rooms fill an old farmhouse overlooking lovely grounds with namesake linden trees (tilleuls), a sandbox, toys, and a large pool. If you missed market day in Vaison la Romaine, sleep here Tuesday night and wake to a bustling market (Db-€84-100, Tb/Qb-€108-120, breakfast-€13, Wi-Fi, well-signed in Malaucène on the route to Mont Ventoux, tel. 04 90 65 22 31, fax 04 90 65 16 77, www.hotel-domainedestilleuls.com, info@hotel-domainedestilleuls.com).
$$$ La Table du Comtat is ideal if you want to sleep in lovable little Séguret. Rooms are simple and traditional, and a fair value. Some have views; the terrace and restaurant are a serious draw. The hotel is closed Wednesday, except in July and August—start your stay on a different day of the week (Db-€90-110, no air-con, tel. 04 90 46 91 49, www.table-comtat.fr, direction@table-comtat.fr).
$$ L’Ecole Buissonnière Chambres is run by an engaging Anglo-French team, Monique and John, who share their peace and quiet 10 minutes from Vaison la Romaine. This creatively restored farmhouse has three character-filled half-timbered rooms, and convivial public spaces. Getting to know John, who has lived all over the south of France and even worked as a gardian (cowboy) in the Camargue, is worth the price of the room; he’s also generous with his knowledge of the area. The outdoor kitchen allows guests to picnic in high fashion in the tranquil garden (Db-€62-70, Tb-€76-84, Qb-€92-99, cash only, includes breakfast, Wi-Fi; between Villedieu and Buisson on D-75—leave Vaison following signs to Villedieu, then follow D-51 toward Buisson and turn left onto D-75; tel. 04 90 28 95 19, ecole.buissonniere@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Domaine le Puy du Maupas Chambres, three miles from Vaison la Romaine in the village of Puyméras, is a good-value B&B with five rooms, views over vineyards to Mont Ventoux, and a pool (Db-€62, Wi-Fi, on D-938, route de Nyons, tel. 04 90 46 47 43, www.puy-du-maupas.com, sauvayre@puy-du-maupas.com).
$$ La Ferme Dégoutaud, a 20-minute drive from Vaison la Romaine, is a splendidly situated, roomy, and utterly isolated chambre d’hôte about halfway between Malaucène and Suzette (well-signed, a mile down a dirt road). Animated Véronique (minimal English) rents three country-cozy rooms with many thoughtful touches, a view pool, table tennis, picnic-perfect tables, and a barbecue at your disposal (Db-€72, Tb-€82, Qb-€92, includes breakfast, tel. & fax 04 90 62 99 29, www.degoutaud.fr, le.degoutaud@wanadoo.fr).
Drivers enjoy a wealth of country-Provençal dining opportunities in rustic settings, handy to many of the rural accommodations. Several of these eateries are described in my self-guided driving tour route (earlier); I’ve listed them by distance from Vaison la Romaine (nearest to farthest). Most are within a 10-minute drive of Vaison la Romaine. All have some outdoor seating and should be considered for lunch or dinner.
La Girocedre is an enchanting place to eat lunch or dinner if you have a car and it’s nice outside. Just three picturesque miles from Vaison la Romaine in adorable Puyméras, this place offers a complete country-Provençal package: outdoor tables placed just-so in a lush garden, warm interior decor, and real Provençal cuisine (€18 three-course lunch menus, €26 dinner menus, closed Mon, tel. 04 90 46 50 67).
Auberge d’Anaïs, at the end of a dirt road 10 minutes from Vaison la Romaine, is another find—and a true Provençal experience. Outdoor tables gather under cheery lights with grand views and reliable cuisine. Ask for a table sur la terrasse (€10 lunch menu, good three-course dinner menus from €16, closed Mon, tel. 04 90 36 20 06). From Vaison la Romaine, follow signs to Carpentras, then St. Marcellin; signs will guide you from there.
Le Panoramic, in hill-capping Le Crestet, serves average salads and plats at what must be Provence’s greatest view tables. Drink in the view, but if cuisine is important, eat elsewhere (€12 plats du jour, €28 menus, open daily for lunch and dinner, tel. 04 90 28 76 42). Drivers should pass by the first parking lot in Le Crestet and keep climbing to park at place du Château. The restaurant is well-signed at the top of the village.
La Table du Comtat, in charming little Séguret, allows you to combine a village visit with a fine meal and finer views over vineyards and villages. Book a window table in advance, and come while there’s still light (€22 lunch menu, €40 dinner menu, classic French cuisine, closed Wed-Thu, tel. 04 90 46 91 49). See hotel listing, earlier.
Hôtel les Florets, just above Gigondas, is a traditional, family-run place that’s well worth the drive—particularly if you dine on the magnificent terrace. Dinners are a sumptuous blend of classic French cuisine and Provençal accents, served with class by English-speaking Thierry. The weighty wine list is (literally) encyclopedic (€31 and €46 menus, €14 lunch plat du jour, restaurant closed Wed, service can be slow). See hotel listing, earlier.
La Maison Bleue, on Villedieu’s delightful little square, is a pizza-and-salad place with great outdoor ambience. Skip it if the weather forces you inside (open for lunch and dinner, closed Mon, tel. 04 90 28 97 02).
See “Lavender”
Les Coquelicots, a tiny eatery surrounded by vines and views in minuscule Suzette, is a sweet spot. The food is scrumptious (owner/chef Frankie insists on fresh products), and the setting is memorable. Try the Assiette Provençale, his omelets with herbs, or any of his grilled meats and fish (May-Sept usually closed Tue evening and all day Wed, Oct-April open weekends only, tel. 04 90 65 06 94).
Côté Vignes, off a short dirt road between Suzette and Beaumes de Venise, is a lighthearted wood-fired-everything place with outdoor tables flanked by fun interior dining. Young Corrine runs the restaurant with enthusiasm; try the Camembert cheese flambé with lettuce, potatoes, and ham (€9 salads and good pizza, menus from €18, closed Tue evening and Wed, tel. 04 90 65 07 16).
For further explorations of the Côtes du Rhône region, consider these suggestions: a scenic mountaintop, an off-the-beaten-path countryside ramble, and an impressive gorge.
The drive to Mont Ventoux is worth ▲▲▲ if skies are crystal-clear, or in any weather between late June and the end of July, when the lavender blooms. It also provides you a scenic connection between the Côtes du Rhône villages and the Luberon. Allow an hour to drive to the top of this 6,000-foot mountain, where you’ll be greeted by cool temperatures, crowds of visitors, and acres of white stones.
Mont Ventoux is Provence’s rooftop, with astonishing Pyrenees-to-Alps views—but only if it’s really clear (which it usually isn’t). But even under hazy skies, it’s an interesting place. The top combines a barren and surreal lunar landscape with souvenirs, bikers, and hikers. All that chalky mess you see was once the bottom of a sea. Miles of poles stuck in the rock identify the route (the top is usually snowbound Dec-April). Le Vendran restaurant (near the old observatory and Air Force control tower) offers snacks and meals with commanding views. An orientation board is available on the opposite side of the mountaintop.
Between Mont Ventoux and the Luberon, you’ll duck into and out of several climate zones and remarkably diverse landscapes. The scene alternates between limestone canyons, lush meadows, and wildflowers. Thirty minutes east of Mont Ventoux, lavender fields forever surround the rock-top village of Sault (pronounced “soh”), which produces 40 percent of France’s lavender essence. Sault, a welcoming town in any season, goes unnoticed by most hurried travelers. It’s a slow-down-and-smell-the-lavender kind of place, with a sociable “mountain market” on Wednesdays.
Getting to Mont Ventoux: To reach Mont Ventoux from Vaison la Romaine, go to Malaucène, then wind up D-974 for 40 minutes to the top (or start at cute little Bedoin, which has a local Monday market; from there D-974 offers a longer, prettier route to the top). If continuing to Sault (a worthwhile detour when the lavender blooms) or on to the Luberon (worthwhile anytime—see next chapter), follow signs to Sault, then Gordes. The Les Routes de la Lavande brochure suggests driving and walking routes in the area (available online at www.routes-lavande.com or at Sault TI, tel. 04 90 64 01 21).
This meander north into the Drôme Provençale is overkill for many, as the scenery is only subtly different than what you’ll see closer to your hotel. But if you haven’t had your fill of pretty vistas, this drive is away from popular tourist areas and combines rugged scenery with overlooked towns and villages (see map on here). I’d only do it on Thursdays, when it’s market day in Nyons, or on Wednesdays, when it’s market day in Buis-les-Barronies. Allow most of a day for this up-and-down, curve-filled drive, particularly if the market in Nyons is on. Or you can just do Nyons and call it a day.
From Vaison la Romaine, drive to Nyons, an attractive midsize town set along a river and against the hills. Here you’ll find a Roman bridge with views, an olive mill, a lavender distillery, a handful of walking streets, and an arcaded square—all with few tourists. Nyons is famous for its rollicking Thursday market (until 12:30) and for producing France’s best olives, which you can taste at its well-organized coopérative (daily 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, interesting museum about olives, on place Olivier de Serres, tel. 04 75 26 95 00).
From Nyons, head for the hills following signs to Gap on D-94, then follow signs to St. Jalles on D-64. Little St. Jalles hovers above the road, with a pretty Romanesque church (usually closed), two cafés (Café de Lavande overhangs the river, providing a fine backdrop for a drink, lunch, or a snack), and a small winery making crisp whites and easy reds (Domaine de Rieu Frais, Mon-Sat 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 75 27 31 54, best to call ahead and let them know you’re coming).
From St. Jalles, cross the bridge following D-108 and Buis-les-Barronnies signs, and start your ascent over the rocky mountains. Prepare for miles of curves, territorial views, and no guardrails. Drop down (er, drive down) and meet the Ouvèze river, then follow it into bustling Buis-les-Barronnies (with all the services, including a slew of cafés and an attractive old town to stroll). Buis-les-Barronnies is the linden tree capital of France and hosts an earthy outdoor market on Wednesdays with produce and crafts.
From Buis-les-Barronnies, continue south on D-5, then turn left toward Eygaliers on D-72. Follow this slow, serpentine road along the back side of Mont Ventoux and go all the way to the jewel of this trip: Brantes, one of Provence’s most spectacularly located villages. Stop here for some fresh air and a look at the local pottery.
Finally, follow signs back to Vaison la Romaine along the faster, less curvy D-40. A few minutes before Vaison la Romaine, you’ll pass through pleasing little Entrechaux.
These gorges, which wow visitors with abrupt chalky-white cliffs, follow the Ardèche river through immense canyons and thick forests. To reach the gorges from Vaison la Romaine, drive west 45 minutes, passing through Bollène and Pont Saint-Esprit to Vallon Pont d’Arc (the tourist hub of the Ardèche Gorges). From Vallon Pont d’Arc, you can canoe along the peaceful river through some of the canyon’s most spectacular scenery and under the rock arch of Pont d’Arc (half-day, all-day, and 2-day trips possible; less appealing in summer, when the river is crowded and water levels are low), and learn about hiking trails that get you above it all (TI tel. 04 75 88 04 01, www.vallon-pont-darc.com, French only). If continuing north toward Lyon, connect Privas and Aubenas, then head back on the autoroute. Endearing little Balazuc—a village north of the gorges, with narrow lanes, flowers, views, and a smattering of cafés and shops—makes a great stop.